Peaky, messy, solid, fun
I guess everybody was surfed out this morning? I didn’t see one other wave-rider during my hour-long sesh. Inevitably when I’m out there alone, and It’s grey and overcast, I start to feel the vibe. You know that vibe. Spooky, subtle, morbid fear. The landlord. The man in grey. But.. I didn’t let it get to me and actually enjoyed a fun, engaging, technical session. The windswell is still doing its thing. Lumpy, slightly-jumbled head-high peaks cruised in with delightful (if you’re waiting for a wave) or punishing (if you’re on the inside) consistency. Let’s see... first ride a fast, shoulder-high left that I pigdogged the take-off.. then backhand pumped and trimmed down the line for a bit. Upon seeing the conditions from the beach before the session my expectations were low, so this first ride got me all stoked. Second ride probably my best of the morning. Steep backside takeoff.. no pigdog.. stayed really low with bent-knees.. bottom turned.. checked off the top and then trimmed down the line.. then a nice glassy section presented itself and I went as vertical as I could up the little wall, carved and turned off the lip as the wave closed-out.. then barely kept my nose from pearling as I came down with the lip rode it out. Cool. Then, as if to humble me immediately.. I took about 12 waves on the head and felt pretty pummeled.. ended up ditching my board and just swimming back out to the lineup. Next wave a right that required a fun, ledgy, steep, quick takeoff.. but then I got caught behind the section... but the drop was nice. A couple more random lefts came through and then another squirty right. The waves were pretty peaky and sensitive to the dynamic bottom contours of the beach.. in other words.. I spent most of the time paddling to stay on this one tasty left peak. Then.. I knew it was getting time for me to head in so I made the mental decision that the next one would be my last… and waited.. and waited.. and tried to take off on a pitching left but got pitched with the lip and wiped it hard.. then paddled back out.. waited.. waited.. continued to wait.. late for work.. etc.. started to get grumpy… back hurting.. ocean why do you do this?? But.. then a scrumptious, bulbous peak came floating toward me.. I positioned myself under the ledge and then held-on for a steep backside drop.. I’ve been trying for the last year to wean myself off the pigdog unless absolutely necessary but on this wave it was.. steep and gurgling and fast and unpredictable.. I sped down the line as the wave sucked and careened.. It tried to buck and throw me off but luckily i was balanced and just held onto the bitch and kept firing through section after section. finally I crashed in about 1 foot of water pretty far on the inside.. oh yeah!! All of a sudden my back didn’t hurt, my grumpiness was gone.. and the stoke was back.. surfing!
Great vibes on the comments yesterday! Shredular!
here's a couple of dank morsels:
usually the guys who make fun of other surf spots like lindy suck.
-anonymous
Linda Mar's cool.
- no_kooks
learned on Sammy Steamboat's big red rental boards
- goodmorning
it's no wedge, but if you're looking for a beating (short rides, thick barrels, lots of time pinned to sand in 3 ft of water), baker beach will fill the bill.
- cgl
Baker beach is a legit body whomp spot- I have tested it and been whomped.
- goodmorning
Any band that plays the band, is a serious band.
- kookdom
enjoy what you got... hit that shit, and keep sharing the stoke.
- j.o.c.
I hope everyone got slotted and pitted around here
- Sutro D
I dropped into a mackin set wave, streaked across and zipped into shore heart thumping.
- bagus
Never so happy to surf some marginal windswell.
- dano
Life doesn't get much better.
- dennis
Saw one guy fully slotted
caught-on-the-inside
attributing it to sac as opposed to poor judgement is most gracious!
- ck
The best way to assess swell potential is emailing me or Mark Sponsler
- blakestah
Oh, I almost forgot, i had another kid!
- jdz
Sweet bowls this am.
- maynard
there ARE girls in bikinis in NorCal, they're just hidden under 4 mm of neoprene. Maybe they should be worn *over* the wetsuits instead. Hm.
- sharkbait
You get girls in bikinis at your beach. We get good-size windswell.
- kaiser sose
forgot to wear my earplugs and i brought a little bit of ob to work via my head.
- bagel
daydreaming of log-gliding at the boatdocks.
- klooless
Did one huge top turn and it felt so good I had to let out a little yelp.
- kookdom
had band practice late last night and didn't get up in time for a sesh. you called it e. now time to find a good excuse to squirt out of here early. he he.
Posted by: lerm at August 19, 2004 10:11 AMOB: surfable albeit a smaller and frumpy version of yesterday. Onshores present and threatening to go either way.
e-sounds like a great morning! There was at least one other person out when you were, but I was busy dodging the brand spanking new ***ING RIPPY HOLE - as blakestah pointed out - that sucking vortex where surfers vanish. Breaking shallow, called sesh short due to wimpiness or prudence, not sure. Will be returning early eve no matter the conditions, feel free to join after work session for garbly junky onshore good times.
and WELCOME DENNIS!!! Congrats on the lease, yay!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 19, 2004 10:17 AMi just wanted to apologize to all surfing the jetty last night. what i >THOUGHT
Posted by: j at August 19, 2004 10:27 AModd, only half my post came thru.
should read:
what i *thought* was surf wax was apparently SWELLKILL®, my board hit the water and the waves went to shite. my apologies.
Posted by: j at August 19, 2004 10:35 AMBest session in weeks! Hee hee! Amid the dozens of botched take-offs, amazing disappearing waves, and other assorted kookery, I stumbled into a few really fun rights, with more play-time on the funky, shifty faces than I'd managed so far on the shortboard. Blakestah was dead right about wandering a half-block from where I languished yesterday (n.b. sharkbait!).
Good to meet loon out there---and to see him grabbing some. Right after meeting him I demonstrated the aptness of my moniker with one of my patented maneuvers: front foot (or maybe both feet this time) gets caught in the leash during the popup, and I'm stuck with two feet on the tail. This time the leash somehow peels itself off my ankle, and you know the rest. Fortunately there was no one inside, and the board was fine.
Posted by: Klooless at August 19, 2004 10:38 AMklooless.. i've performed the ol' "hog-tied by the leash" thing many times.. though usually while underwater during a wipe-out..
nice on the good session.
Posted by: e at August 19, 2004 10:46 AMHere's a quote for all you surf/music loving folks (which appears to be everyone on this site)
from my 11 year old son on the way back home last night at 9:00PM after getting a little over an hour of chest high waves in N. SC County.
"That was so awesome! Thanks for coming home early and taking me surfing! Was that big one I got overhead? Man, that was so fun! Just for that I'm going to play some guitar for you when we get home."
He knows I love to hear him play. I am like Homer Simpson on the show where he's stoned and throws a dollar at Lisa so she'll keep playing her Sax late into the night.
Posted by: surfingsam at August 19, 2004 10:52 AMi hog tied a few teenage girls hitchhiking back when I was living in Mississippi.....
hmm.. .wherever did I leave that car?
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 10:52 AMNiceness....surfing sam.
I hope you told the kid his wave was easily 2 foot "overhead" and he was right in the pocket....almost tubed.
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 10:54 AMCLAIM
Pronunciation: 'klAm
Function: transitive verb
Etymology: Middle English, from Middle French clamer, from Latin clamare to cry out, shout; akin to Latin calare to call -- more at LOW
1 a : to ask for especially as a right b : to call for : REQUIRE c : TAKE 16b
2 : to take as the rightful owner
3 a : to assert in the face of possible contradiction : MAINTAIN b : to claim to have c : to assert to be rightfully one's own
synonym see DEMAND
- claim·able /'klA-m&-b&l/ adjective
SHARE
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle English, from Old English scearu cutting, tonsure; akin to Old English scieran to cut
1 a : a portion belonging to, due to, or contributed by an individual or group b : one's full or fair portion
2 a : the part allotted or belonging to one of a number owning together property or interest b : any of the equal portions into which property or invested capital is divided; specifically : any of the equal interests or rights into which the entire capital stock of a corporation is divided and ownership of which is regularly evidenced by one or more certificates c plural, chiefly British : STOCK 7c(1)
STOKED
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 19, 2004 10:58 AMPronunciation: 'stOkt
Function: adjective
slang : being in an enthusiastic or exhilarated state
Went for a surf yesterday morning then got on a plane for NYC around 1. I found my seat, which was by the window so I had to squeeze by the woman sitting in the aisle. As I did this, I leaned over the seat in front of me where a girl (over 18) and her mom were seated. As soon as my head was over her seat, she bent over to put something under her seat or something and I saw her ass crack. All of a sudden my nose started dripping saltwater. It just narrowly missed going down her crack and instead dripped on the seat and on the seat back. Phew, close call!!! Hopefully I will score NJ this weekend!!
Posted by: traut at August 19, 2004 11:02 AMwho's the biggest claimer on the site?
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 11:03 AMwho is the biggest sharer?
who is the most stoked?
biggest claimer - egpimp? bvb?
Posted by: e at August 19, 2004 11:08 AMbiggest sharer - bruce or sharkbait?
most stoked - klooless? ck is pretty stoked usually. Jake too.
http://news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,10429979%5E13780,00.html
Posted by: kai-zurr at August 19, 2004 11:08 AMbiggest sharer: e
Posted by: cgl at August 19, 2004 11:27 AMbiggest claimer: bvb (or maybe kaiser, with a smile)
most stoked: sharkbait--undaunted daily reports and sessions, regardless of conditions.
J, my lawyers will be contacting you regarding the "slander" presented above.
Well, I couldn't do it this morning. After 3 back-to-back-to-back sessions, my body needed some sleep.
Got out last night with Korewin and Elias. The surf was junk but we went anyway. The winds definitely kicked up a notch around 6:30 or so. What was decent was shit in about 3 minutes. Bagel joined a bit later. Good to share some chunks of water w/ part of the crew. The water is warm as hell right now as well.
Tonight? Crossing my fingers. Let's hope the S winds stay blowing. Cause I know a place that.............
Posted by: Kaiser at August 19, 2004 11:28 AMfun surfing with you guys. nice to meet you korewin. there was 0 people out everywhere but kellys, where there were 150, so i invaded you guys at stair 22. ha ha. got a good right though. if its like last night tonight i think ill pass. oi
Posted by: bagel at August 19, 2004 11:39 AMBaker beach again:
Posted by: key-low at August 19, 2004 11:41 AMGod, I love that bridge, er.....
Posted by: Kaiser at August 19, 2004 11:46 AMman key-low, why you gotta show a picture of a naked gay dude way down the beach...ohh nevermind.
Posted by: Hb at August 19, 2004 11:50 AMBEAUTIFUL how you can see the marin highlands in that picture. great composition. three thumbs up.
Posted by: j at August 19, 2004 11:52 AM![]()
Posted by: bagel at August 19, 2004 11:57 AMlooks so fun
![]()
Posted by: one more time at August 19, 2004 11:59 AM>> Oh, I almost forgot, i had another kid!
>> - jdz
JDZ! Congratulations! You get priority for the next six mos (cuz you sure won't be getting it at home!)
Sam: nice story.
Posted by: robme at August 19, 2004 11:59 AMson of a
Posted by: bagel at August 19, 2004 12:00 PMI'm starting to like baker beach.
Posted by: key-low at August 19, 2004 12:03 PMCalifornia Live Raggae Calendar.
Check it...
http://www.ireggae.com/cgi-bin/calendar/calendar.pl
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 12:10 PMSorry I keep stealing from U collin
Posted by: key-low at August 19, 2004 12:11 PM
Posted by: key-low at August 19, 2004 12:12 PMtraut: hilarious!
jdz: congrats!
kloo: nice to make the formal connection out there. if i recall correctly you are relatively new to shortboarding, but your takeoffs do not reveal that.
i dorked my two most promising waves today. thought i was perfectly positioned to backdoor a left peak, but somehow caught my edge and fell headfirst -- feet too far forward and a little too much forward lean. i am also working to avoid the backhand pigdog-takeoff - have been doing some bent-knee exercises to help that. dropped late on one right, bent low, avoided grabbing my rail and even thought 'wow, great position' but right then something happened, i was toppled. cie la vie ...
churny rippy brownish ocean
Posted by: loon at August 19, 2004 12:14 PMa rainbow of grey above
contrarian summertime hues
for now
Hey thanks Sharkbait. Yep signed the lease last night and will move in about the first of Sept. I be keeping an eye on the southern corner. Psyched.
Posted by: Dennis at August 19, 2004 12:17 PMIf that lady with the yellow ball told me to sit down and shut up, I would.
Posted by: Dennis at August 19, 2004 12:23 PMGooglers are counting "double digit fat thousand stacks" today....too bad none of 'em are dreaming of 200 yard double overhead tropical reef passes off an atol still unnamed in the south pacific
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 12:26 PMDennis - beware the dolphin house - hope you aren't moving in next door.
Posted by: blakestah at August 19, 2004 12:28 PMmy brother just got back from oz and got some fun waves despite it being one of the worst winters ever in australia
Posted by: bbr at August 19, 2004 12:31 PMHELP ME ... I CAN'T GET UP
Posted by: tea-bagged at August 19, 2004 12:40 PMbbr...it's o.k to name spots in australia....now proceed.
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 12:40 PMSpeakin' of reggae...
Seeing Burning Spear in a very small place in Santa Barbara next week. Irrrrrrrriiiiieeeeeee.
Doesn't get much better than that....well, if we had a little NW so I could stop off the next mornin' at a lovely SB right point.....
Ohhh where must I find my resting place....
Over the hills, across the valley....
I'm SURE I can see, I'm SUUURE I can see
Too much pollution, too much pollution...
or somethin' like.....now you understandin'...
Posted by: Hb at August 19, 2004 12:45 PMNice work HB, where are you seeing the Spear?
"When my smaller brother run around
And pick up the bramble
To keep the fire blazing
To keep mama fire blazing
Blazing fire, fire"
The foundation!
Posted by: Ace at August 19, 2004 12:57 PMslims on the 27th....burning spear.
look for me up front with a gaggle of hussies "in play"
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 12:58 PMklooless: fyi from the shore I saw you steep takeoff for a long right. If you had crouched down and were maybe 2" closer to the face you would have been briefly tubed before it closed out. Nice going!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 19, 2004 01:08 PMThanks for the warning Blakestah. I'm actually moving in at Vicente on the GH. Second house from the corner-north side. I'll post an invite once we get settled.
Posted by: Dennis at August 19, 2004 01:10 PMwhat's up with the dolphin house (pink house w/ blue seahorses?) anyway?
Posted by: theo at August 19, 2004 01:18 PMAngel Raich exhales vaporized cannabis as she medicates herself for pain at her home in Oakland.
Posted by: puff puff paaaasssss at August 19, 2004 01:44 PMdon't bogart that oversized breast implant breathalyzer plastic bag double nippled thingy contraption ..........my friend
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 01:48 PMwhew, that session last night was RADICAL. It was like a pocket of niceness in well, not so niceness conditions. though, i saw everyone get a couple of good waves. and i think i saw that wave that bagel was talking about, cause i was right behind him! snake! ah well, it was a good wave and i wanted to go in!
today, i think im going to take a slop check, so good luck to all those hitting it up after work. aight. peaces.
Posted by: elias at August 19, 2004 01:49 PM
Posted by: undisclosed location at August 19, 2004 01:52 PMtheo...
hit me with an email
tom@kontera.com
the rest of you spammers better step off...
Posted by: tomstah at August 19, 2004 01:56 PMSoho, i think the place is called. Really small i guess.
In LA he is playing at House of Blues which is LAME. HOB staff sucks, don't let you have a good time, don't let you burn if you want, just very corporate, white-washed and sterile place to see a band. no fun.
I hope he plays The Wilderness!
Posted by: Hb at August 19, 2004 02:00 PMtom and theo surfing at a peak
Posted by: 2nd Grade Class President at August 19, 2004 02:07 PMs - u - r - f - i - n - g
first comes love then comes marriage then comes and adopted ripper in a baby carriage
D'oh... Sorry 'bout the site hiccup an hour ago. The niceness.org server's 300 day uptime is no more.
Posted by: mwsf at August 19, 2004 02:15 PMstoked you guys are gettin waves on the west coast, can't wait for a hurricane to pull into new england.
mrs. laird
Posted by: gvibe7 at August 19, 2004 02:23 PMdoh! sorry elias! sheeit, i had a feeling...im a retard, you owe me one, or is it i owe you one?..anyway i blame the weed..maybe tonight it will be better and it'll be payback time..
Posted by: bagel at August 19, 2004 02:27 PMI thought we had a nice productive talk about you and this blog. Get your ass in my office now!
Posted by: Bagel's Boss at August 19, 2004 02:33 PMSurfed kookland this morning at 7:00 and it was really playful and fun. Nothing epic but not closed out (stars and planets must be aligned in a weird way).
Got a second job offer. But if I take it I'm going to negotiate an October start date. I want a whole month of surfy surfy!
In SC, Ken took a phone order yesterday from Sen. Kennedy's wife, Vicky. She's very nice.
Got the new fish and CK can attest to the fact that I now look like Shamu on thorazine riding a day glo Liberace-style piano lid.
Posted by: Bruce at August 19, 2004 02:37 PMOh you think you got it like that Bruce?
Bagels boss would have your ass, too.
His motto is 2 assess, one day.
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 02:47 PMno worries bagel. plus, i'm the one that is supposed to owe you one. right? well at least a surfboard!
Posted by: elias at August 19, 2004 02:56 PMya in my blurry state i didnt know what was going on and all that wind blowing, and my earplugs throwing me off, and all those sharks, i was just confused. damn you my boss! take this job and shove it! you cant fire me i quit!
Posted by: bagel at August 19, 2004 03:17 PMZoroaster Misfits regurgitate hydrolic textured sycophants.
Myopic Muscle-men caterwaul bamboozled muddy excretions.
With much dexterity she slips the dermic incision into his sleeping eyelid.
Unfazed, cryptic entanglements assuage fear of discovery. Hidden in the lattice of complexity, subversive forces coalesce... ruminate... gesticulate... fart.
Posted by: e at August 19, 2004 03:50 PMOk.
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 03:52 PMWhat he said goes for me too.
Angel Raich? Looks more like Howard Stern.
Posted by: Ian at August 19, 2004 03:54 PMyeah, i think the pain is caused from her looks!
Posted by: j at August 19, 2004 04:04 PM
Posted by: sweet at August 19, 2004 04:12 PM
Posted by: canadians rawk! at August 19, 2004 04:17 PMcraig mullins
Posted by: bagel at August 19, 2004 04:33 PMthat is a bad-ass paiting! damn! nice werewolf guy on the left. scary.
Posted by: e at August 19, 2004 04:37 PMbruce, it's always good to follow instructions. next time your ride your new board do as the label states and just GO IN......HA!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 19, 2004 04:45 PM
Posted by: almost but not quite yet at August 19, 2004 04:49 PMfrick that painting is insane...
Posted by: bbr at August 19, 2004 04:50 PMhmmmm
Posted by: e at August 19, 2004 04:52 PMOk, enough oil paintings and dudes looking like chics and chics grabbing themselves. Well, that one can slid.
What is the surf doing? Anyone been near the H2O in the last hour or so?
Posted by: Kaiser at August 19, 2004 04:53 PMyeah...i always race right home to tell you kooks what the waves are doing and to CLAIM
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 05:00 PMBLAH! Then you log on to see what everyone else has to say?
BLAH! Nice work.
BLAH!
Posted by: Kaiser at August 19, 2004 05:08 PMthis shit is funny
kaiser - good luck with the sesh.. you know where i'll be tomorrow morning if ya wanna join.
btw - great call on this windswell! you called it last week.
Posted by: e at August 19, 2004 05:21 PMKaiser!?
Posted by: surfingsam at August 19, 2004 05:23 PM"Enough of the girls grabbing themselves?"
I depend on you to keep pics like that flowing.
I know you were just kidding, but that isn't even funny!
i want to hate those vice magazine guys but damn there good. that is a solid time waster.
DOs & DON'Ts—Pot at 30
When you were 14, parents always had the best pot. Parents who had you call them by their first names usually had the best of the best pot. When you are the age they were then, spring for real pot every time you buy. How will you be able to afford this? Because you are smoking less grass.
Smoking grass constantly is like chain-smoking (which you've also stopped by now). It will make the skin on your neck look like a used condom and the corner of your eyes look like a murder of ravens tap-danced on your face. Also, you are too old to be forgetting everything. Sometime in the next few years you are going to get a phone call announcing one of your parents has died.
Your new rule of thumb for weed is to spend at least $60 a shot and make whatever that gets you last for a month.
Posted by: bagel at August 19, 2004 05:57 PMbagel, uhhhhhhhhhh i forgot
Posted by: at August 19, 2004 06:39 PMBagel, please meet me in my office at 7:30 AM tomorrow. We have to talk about this blog and weed situation. Bring your real weed.
Sincerely,
Posted by: Bagel's Boss at August 19, 2004 08:34 PMBagel's Boss
3to5, I think the Go In had a puff- my planned 7'3" came out a 7'6". But it's pretty!
The rest of you guys are nuts and should take up golfing. We need more culture! Jacques Marie Camoreyt, French, 19th Century- one my dad picked up for a few bucks in a junk shop 35 years ago.
Posted by: Bruce at August 19, 2004 08:38 PMI just read Blakestahs forecast for next week and i dont think im going to sleep much until then.....
Posted by: Sutro D at August 20, 2004 07:44 AMBrucey,
Puffin ain't Go go's style. He prolly just wanted to make sure you had plenty of foam under yer bum. Now vb on the other hand.......
I'd like to see yer new schtick, as I'm a contemplating a new ride myself.
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Posted by: payday loan at January 10, 2005 02:27 PMWhen you need a
payday loan
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