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Smaller, grey, drizzly.

I didn’t get out there this morning. It looks doable, especially if you’re simply yearning for your dawn-patrol utility session. The wind is blowing onshore, but not crazy-whack onshore.
Yesterday morning I found some of the best waves I’ve seen all summer. It looked frumpy and ugly from the beach, but once in the lineup it became apparent that chunkified, powerful bowls were swooping in every 10 minutes or so and actually rifling down the line along the shallow sandbars of my local. Ya can’t really beat falling out of bed on Sunday morning super-early, stumbling out to the yard naked, cutting through the grogginess by donning the soggy/sandy wetsuit, then jogging down to the beach for a surf with nobody in the water for miles. I feel extremely lucky and grateful. Lucky to be healthy enough to surf. Lucky to not be working like a dog 7 days a week. Lucky to not have to drive to get waves! A few lefts that came through really sucked and buckled up on a shallow bar and provided exhilarating, heavy excursions down the line. On one drop I literally did the butt-slide pig-dog and fucking held-on with all my might just to make the drop and stay in the pocket. Then it was a zippy, conical, rapid-fire section that I raced and did a little backhand reo at the end. Good times yesterday. Good also to hear that our man Robme got out there with his super-gremmie Silus and ripped shit up.. right on!

My parents were in town this weekend and on Saturday we cruised the coast, eventually making it down to EGpimp's favorite lunch-spot Barbara’s Fish Stand in El Grenada for some crab sandwiches. On the way we stopped at a beautiful but flat rockaway and did the little hike up the hill between Rockaway and Lindy. It was amazing to see the HUNDREDS of surfers out there in small conditions at Linda Marginal. My parents could not believe how many people were out in the water. It was daunting and scary and incredible. Will those teeming masses be making the progression to OB in years to come? Are most of those people new to the sport? Are as many people entering the sport as leaving? An even crazier thing was that M***** also had almost 100 people in the lineup.. With nary a decent wave! I was flabbergasted. How many of those folk are simply weekend revelers looking for a little splash in the ocean on a sunny day? How many are determined wave-hounds on the road to daily surfdom? (it's cool if you were out there.. even though it was crowded it still looked fun and mellow and glassy and chill.. if i weren't with my 'rents i might have gone for a lil' sesh) Will our lineups be chock full to the breaking point in the next 5 years. Will the days of the early-Sunday-morning emptiness be a thing of the past? Is it all just a part of the cycle of generations? Old crew retiring.. new crew coming up? Is it all good? Does it really matter? Everyone has an equal right to the waves. One interesting thing is that while these two popular San Mateo county spots were teeming with enthusiastic wave-riders, other close-by San Mateo breaks looked just as good and were completely empty. I mean NOBODY out.. with pretty much the same waves. Soo.. to all the old carps bemoaning the influx of new surfers into the world.. keep yer chin up.. allz ya have to do is poke your head around the next corner. Sniff it out. It’s out there. seriously.

get up to the lip!

Carving

norcal

Matt Ambrose

SC

somewhere.. radio controlled surfer?

Now you get what I was saying a while back. It's insane the number of people out there. I have a feeling you'll never see most at OB because they just aren't into anything over waist high.

Note the prevalence of longboards, people showing up late, general "movie surf culture", Xterras, sitting around never catching a wave, etc. I'm hoping I'm right that it's just a trend and will be gone just the same as the Woody-driving dorks with unwaxed boards strapped on top in the 60's who never made it into the lineup.

Posted by: Nate at August 23, 2004 10:18 AM

about 80% of that crowd seemed to vanish around 4pm yesterday.

tide dropped, and a couple sandbars were working for a brief while.

ditched the leash and the wetsuit and trunked it for an hour or so. lotta fun.

Posted by: g at August 23, 2004 10:22 AM

e - great contemplations this morning.

Fish trap is really not my favorite. Head down the street a bit, ditch the tourists and hit Cafe Capistrano. Ok, it's next to the OPL, a scary place where a biker may kick sand in your face, but, don't be afraid. Artorro cooks up some amazing food with mexican flare. Daily specials (fish tacos, ribs yesterday, homemade mango salse). The dude is an amazing cook and has a great vibe.

Barbara's is to KookyMar as Cafe Capistrano is to "the place around the corner."

keep pimpin'
egp

Posted by: EG Pimp at August 23, 2004 10:23 AM

right on EG pimp.. thanks for the low-down. I kinda figured that Barbara's was the tourist trap but my parents wanted to grind some crab sandwiches.. we got takeout and walked down to a picnic table near the boats and chowed. it was fun.

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 10:28 AM

The last time I drove past Linda Mar on a weekend I almost got whiplash and crashed the car when I saw how many people were in the water. Then I almost went off Devil's Slide because I was still laughing so hard.

Posted by: R3W at August 23, 2004 10:28 AM

Great pics today....


Didn't surf Sunday. Typically when Silas surfs, I don't. But it's always good to hear he was out.

Posted by: tomstah at August 23, 2004 10:29 AM

those pics had me clicking away at their source...

Could this one be Silas? In a year or 3?

http://photos.surfline.com/norcal/IMG_6587

Posted by: tomstah at August 23, 2004 10:38 AM

Hold yer hats.

Tomorrow will bring 20 second energy, super sparse, at roughly 3 ft.

It's gonna get bigger and more consistent through Wednesday, with winds forecast to be tolerable until Thursday. Work late today...for tomorrow marks the start of surf season.

Posted by: blakestah at August 23, 2004 10:47 AM

uhh, you talk about crowds on a website that basicly patronizes our surf, and then Blakestah comes in saying it's gonna get good, etc. Not to ruin the party, but isn't it ironic?

Posted by: key-low at August 23, 2004 10:51 AM

key-low... you're right.

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 10:54 AM

Well then I'm glad I stayed local this weekend. Saturday late morning funboarding little funlets at an empty part of the beach. Sunday mid-morning was a bit bigger, so I shortboarded the same spot, empty again. Like you say, there were occasional really good waves---getting smaller as the morning went on---none of which I caught, but they were nice to look at. Still, there were lots of worthwhile littler drops with quick adventures over the hard-to-predict sandbars. I held off today too, in hopes of being fresh for what might be coming soon. Having surfed almost exclusively windswell, I am really curious about differences in catching the faster-moving long-period waves (if I read blakestah right).

Posted by: Klooless at August 23, 2004 10:56 AM

see blakestah's post for the answer to whether OB will ever get crowded like LM. vast majority of folks at LM like the idea of surfing, but do not like the punishing aspect of surfing in real energy.

Also, many people prefer to surf in crowds--it makes them feel safer and there's also the mentality that "if it's crowded here, this must be the good spot". I have this argument with one of my friends regularly, which causes me to call him for only about 1/2 of my planned sessions.

e, sounds like you had the perfect start to a sunday. glad you had some fun.

Posted by: cgl at August 23, 2004 10:57 AM

'nuff said

Posted by: hypocrisy at August 23, 2004 10:57 AM

e,
your point about getting out beyond the gathering of the surfing masses is right on. It is out there for those that want to take the time and effort to get on it. Sunday morning, that spot I mentioned in my email to you thursday was firing, and no one was out. Just me and my future brother-in-law. Unbelievable waves coming in and we each had 25-30 a piece. Pretty much as good as waves can get. Hopefully those who are adding to the conjestion in the line-ups at certain places like Linda-Mar leave with a bad taste in their mouth. I would, wouldn't you? How could that possibly be a good time for anyone.
The internet is definately adding numbers in the line-ups. You can forecast when swells arrive and the average joe surfers have the advantage now of planning there sessions almost a week in advance. 10 years ago, this wasn't possible. Thank Collins for this.

Bug

Posted by: Bug at August 23, 2004 11:01 AM

heh heh the norcal pic looks like 2 gorillas!

OB: yup small and currently wetly foggy, but doable. Longboardish. You get the idea.

Must report a FALSE DENNIS SIGHTING Saturday. 6:45 am, there is *nobody* on the beach or in the water. Yay, first one! Paddle out, look back and 'lo, there's a guy sitting smack dead ahead on the shore ready to come out. Not even 15 feet leeway. Look left, look right...well, there's just one other person walking in 1/4 mile away. I figured Dennis had spotted me and was paddling out to say hello. Nope, total stranger on a longboard, returns my "hello" with a grunt, and paddles around behind me to the better part of the peak. GAH! Mister, with 3 people over 2 miles you HAD to paddle out RIGHT THERE and be grumpy? I let myself drift north onto a lesser spot. Goodness. Wish it had been you, Dennis!

Also reporting a False Hooting Incident Sunday. Sitting a tad closer to the...peak... than the one other surfer, wave lurks up, I spin around and the guy starts hooting. I can't remember if I made the drop or not but the end result was a me at a heap at the bottom.
[ claim!] Gotta love those glory waves. Hooting man quips, " Oh, I didn't think you were actually going to go for it! " So he was yalping, but didn't really mean it. False hooting! False hooting! A terrible crime. Pretty funny...at least it's better than hooting *myself* into a ridiculous situation [ guilty! claim! ] Cheer folks,

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 23, 2004 11:02 AM

startin off crazy...

pacifica was the most crowded i've ever seen it. good thing i was with the rent's too and just kept driving! then over the hill and crazy crowds again. awesome.

my 2 cents... the crowds were due to sunny skies, small eazy surf, late nights of drinking and late mornings. but it's just a weekend. it's supposed to be crowded!! it makes it just that much sweeter for those in the know and those who know where to to go.

didn't take it a rocket scientist to know that saturday were going to be fun. it was in the air.

regardless, i did get a couple yesterday. far from awesome, but close to the sun and sloppy waves.

good surfing.

Posted by: elias at August 23, 2004 11:04 AM

linda mar

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 11:17 AM

I try to work more on weekends nowadays and take 1/2 days on thurs and fri, maybe wed. Shit i'm working too much. no wonder I'm bitter. Stil broke, but not working for some supervisor with a spiderman shirt and braces.

Posted by: key-low at August 23, 2004 11:19 AM

Bug is back! Where ya been?

E, your post and many of the comments bring up many thoughts about the crowd dynamics around here and the seasonality to it. My general feeling is that as soon as one of those 3-4ft. @ 20 sec. suckouts grab ahold of Mr. Foamy and/or Mr. Funboard, someone's "season" is going to come to an abrupt halt. I am all for people enjoying waves and learning to surf. Everyone that gathers here is drawn to the activity for a reason. I just hope that those venturing into the waters suffer through the entire year and take their medicine. If not, that is ok too. Come December when the frost is on the sand, it won't be crowded regardless of the swell size. There are too many factors that contribute to Northern California not becoming like Souther California or Hawaii.

With that being said, sure, our surf spots will become more populated. I think this is merely attributed to the sport of kings itself. There are clearly more additions then subtractions! Why would someone leave? How could you just quit? All the other elements such as the internet, surfline, bouy reports, etc. just make the path a bit easier.

Come Wednesday, we will weed some out. Come the start of school, we will weed a bit more out. Come 10 ft. @ 18 sec, we will weed a whole lot out. Maybe myself....

Posted by: Kaiser at August 23, 2004 11:24 AM

All you guys say OB is imune, but it really isn't much harder of a wave than Linda Mar at moderate sizes. You also gotta factor in the linda mar crew is going to get better and bored with LM. Like a skiier they will progress to intermediate level OB. California is swamped. You can't have sex in the woods no more, because someone's going to walk up.

Posted by: maet_laof at August 23, 2004 11:24 AM

the whole crowd/internet issue is a dead horse.

we all know that what really counts is your behavior.

i find an ignorant kook just as annoying and bothersome as a disrespectful asshole who has been surfing 25 years.

both get sent back to the beach. ;-)

as noted there are places to go to escape crowds.

typically the people complaining the loudest and longest about crowds don't know that they can escape them, or are too afraid to surf places where there are few or no other people. my vote is for the latter. fear motivates a lot of obnoxiousness.

Posted by: g at August 23, 2004 11:25 AM

Yesterday was the deadliest day ever. 3 foot is total death. 3 foot means it's too small to break offshore and big enough for neck breaking shorebreak. Screw that. I envisioned myself being like christopher reaves. Give me 8'-12' anyday.

Posted by: chickin_terri at August 23, 2004 11:27 AM

Kaiser Roll,
I've been surfing.
Congrats to you, Marco gave me the news. You ready for dat? My guess is you are, but your surfing might not be? No?

Bug

Posted by: Bug at August 23, 2004 11:29 AM

The crowds are increasing, for sure. Blame better wetsuits. Blame the mass media reaching more people. Blame people that market surfing. Blame me. Blame e. Blame the internet.

But I wouldn't blame Sean Collins for internet based forecasting. All the tools everyone uses, despite what anyone might claim, come from the US government, and were put in place to forecast ocean weather for increased safety. Collins unique contribution is the mass marketing of surf cams. He markets himself as a good forecaster, and a long-running one at that, but anyone savvy enough knows he can't touch Pat Caldwell or Mark Sponsler or many others. He does market surf cams though.

It is going to be quite crowded possibly until Thanksgiving, irrelevant of size and/or punishment. The beginner spots that hold the surf camps are insanely crowded, its beginning to spill over for obvious reasons. It is not going to get better. Its not. Its going to get more crowded.

Posted by: blakestah at August 23, 2004 11:34 AM

I don't complain much about crowds as I usually surf the danger zone or the crappiest place in California zone. But it kind of sucks that I no longer surf my old haunts that were pretty much empty 10 years ago due to crowds.
There's only so many sets coming in and I'm pretty much a nice guy and let everyone go first, so crowd surfing is not for me.

Posted by: key-low at August 23, 2004 11:35 AM

e, that's funny. i was thinking the same thing on sunday morning when i paddled out and there was nobody around. i thought about our whole coastline from san fran to santa cruz. i thought about linda mar and tried to guess how many people were down there. i don't even think about going there anymore. especially on weekends.

2 beginner folks saw me and decided to paddle out to my spot. it took them close to 30 minutes before they made it out and they were a 3/4 mile down the beach by that time. just wait 'til the real juice gets here.

Posted by: lerm at August 23, 2004 11:35 AM

Had some fun on Saturday with my latest quiver piece--6'6 x 19 x 11 x 14 x 2 & 5/8 Minami just picked up on Friday from the previous owner. It's good to be really shortboarding again. Makes my 7'6 hybrid feel like a barge, which made my 7'9 funshape feel like a barge, which was a wonderful improvement after 3 years out of the water from a motorcycle accident related tweaked lower back.

I thought I would have a more difficult time adjusting to this board, but not at all. By the second wave, we were old friends. Time to start working on 360's and big airs, well maybe better not go that far--but maybe.

Can't wait for some nice clean stuff to really test it out. Tuesday you say Blakestah?

Posted by: Dennis at August 23, 2004 11:36 AM

I check the LM cam periodically to get a sense of the crowd factor. Usually it tells me to stay away but sometimes, say midweek 'round o-dark-thirty, when the cam is blacked out, I convince myself to venture to LM for dp.

Anyway, chest high set waves were to be found yesterday am in northern SC county. The wind stayed off through noon and the high tide finally ended the session for me.

Posted by: steve-o at August 23, 2004 11:40 AM

All of you are so funny- Ya lets encourage people to leave LM. Do any of us really care if LM is crowded? Thank god for that place it's a kook magnet! Even when it is crowded how hard is it to catch as many waves as you want. Please enourage more people to surf there, do not proclaim the emptiness of other spots. Yes it will get more crowded- How soon? That depends on all of you...

Posted by: LM rules at August 23, 2004 11:46 AM

surfing seems to get a popularity boost every 10 years or something this one seems to be lasting pretty long i dont know if im really it. but whatever. if i really want to spend all my time and energy surfing i think i should move, unless i really want to stress/bum myself out. yay monday.

Posted by: bagel at August 23, 2004 11:50 AM

maet_laof is right. The big difficulty for learning surfing is to become a functional beginner. Going from surfing Linda Mar to surfing head-high OB is not such a big deal. Surfing is addictive, a certain percentage is going to make the next step.

M***** wasn't that bad on Saturday. http://digbig.com/4bpgc

Posted by: Joe O at August 23, 2004 11:57 AM

bagel. seriously, you should consider burning out. NAH. and seriously, yay monday.

Posted by: elias at August 23, 2004 11:58 AM

LM gives everyone an excuse to come on e's site and claim ob status.

lot's of you will be running back there as early as wednesday.

remember the one who claims the hardest is usually the one with the least to claim

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 12:00 PM

Re: lots of peeps...yeah, I'll be opting out of OB reports during the optimal surf season - nobody's asked, and my powers are feeble, but still, it just seems like the right thing to do. With exception to marginal, silly, or he-man conditions. Winter surfing is quite the nail biting spectacle 'round here! Cheers,

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 23, 2004 12:00 PM

Bug, I appriciate it! Can you really be ready? All in stride, all in stride...

The quiver has grown and will be used, that is for sure! Just gotta get things in order.

Ya know, as for the crowd deal, I didn't see more then 5 people out Friday afternoon. So, I don't see us getting to a point where crowds are really a problem. Avoid hot spots for crowds and enjoy a nice sandbar with a few stoked friends.

I got a question: Anyone know what the hell is going on in Daly City just south of the Olympic Club? I have heard there used to be a road there back in the day that lead down the cliff for access to the beach in that area. Rumor has it, the road is being rebuilt. Anyone know?

Posted by: Kaiser at August 23, 2004 12:00 PM

I had this almost to myself for the first hour or two yesterday. One of those times when the surf forecasts keep the crowds at bay. Sort of a guilty pleasure. My friend Ken:

Posted by: Bruce at August 23, 2004 12:02 PM

Bruce--sweet wave at Linda Mar...and not another person it sight. Attention All: Linda Mar is empty and firing!!

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 12:07 PM

I was at LM a few weeks ago there were a bunch of poor newbies in mushy conditions desperately trying to paddle out for their surf lesson. I felt bad for them because the rips were strong for the uninitiated. I was teaching a friend too and said this is not the day, my friend - you're gonna spend your day paddling. Yet those poor surf school kidz paid their $75 (or whatever the going rate is) to learn to surf on a crappy day. My guess is that most of those kidz won't be back for lesson #2. So are the crowds bad? I don't know but you gotta be sure that someone made a pretty penny off some of those warms bodies flailing in the water that day. Just food for thought.

Posted by: vagabondsoul at August 23, 2004 12:09 PM

Sharkbait. Too bad it wasn't me. It's fun to "share" waves with you. But I only ride a longboard on OH bumpy days when the shape is not so good. It make me crazy when people paddle to my location and sit in front of or behind me or worse paddle right at me to take off on a peak that's coming to me. Lately, I've been getting in the way when they go for a wave. Passive aggression works sometimes.

Posted by: Dennis at August 23, 2004 12:19 PM

kaiser, rumor has it that they are re-making that road...

Posted by: elias at August 23, 2004 12:20 PM

"things go in cycles..."

as tribe called quest said in '92. surfing is again
in the spotlight. happens every decade or decade and
a half.....gidget/big wednesday/ endless summer then spicoli and lance carson now kelly slater and laird hamilton (aka lance carson)....

it'll fade then resurface....i agree with kasier i don't see crowds
becoming a problem, really. it IS summer according to the
calendar and to the non-surfing wanna be's it is time to SURF
come winter....they'll be in tahoe.

smile there's a swell on the way!

Posted by: korewin at August 23, 2004 12:21 PM

Surf camps down here are packed to the rafters. Much more so than previous years. One "teacher" to a jillion students, so everybody goes on every wave. Enjoy.

Posted by: dano at August 23, 2004 12:26 PM

They are building a new church on the cliff in Daly City. While driving pylons into the soft cliff for this house of God, the cliff failed and a huge, we're talkin HUGE, mud slide occured. The road, really a walk path, was open then, but now is closed. Sucks.

That was one of the places I'd frequent. A bit of a walk, but shit, I've run marathons for the exercise.

Posted by: maet_laof at August 23, 2004 12:26 PM

Surfing gets popular everytime a Republican is in office.

People lose jobs, have nothing to do, so go surf.

When clinton was in office I was working in a hell hole .com. way the hell down in silicon valley central. The DOT in DOT com to be precise. Had no time to surf. Pretty much been unemployed, underemployed and selfemployed since.

Posted by: chickin_terri at August 23, 2004 12:29 PM

from surfermag

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 12:45 PM

60° water? Geez..

Posted by: Ian at August 23, 2004 12:52 PM

ya im just gonna give up life sucks..oh wait i have gotten my red fish yet..oh damn! im just saying, i love surfing in the bay area its just not the most consistant or GOOD for waves..of course we get our epic days..but i mean sheeit, our off season is pretty much 3 off seasons to 1 on season. but like i said i dont live here for the waves or surfing. I live here for the transgender transsexuals. Speaking of which did you hear about these dudes that try to get illegal silicon and botox(sp) injections like strait up from the hardware store and shit? and end up with crazy deformities and all kinds of effed up health problems? craziest thing I heard all weekend.

Posted by: bagel at August 23, 2004 12:55 PM

Ya know? I have absolutely no problem with beginners. I do have a problem with people I see only on warm days in summer. Doesn't it seem disrepectful to the surf gods? It's like dating the perfect person but never making a committment.

Korewin has it right. Pretty soon we'll be changing in a dark parking lot in the rain or howling off-shores, or getting thumped in the shore break. . . the crowds will thin out. We Crusty Committed will be there. Even if it's beyond our skill level (low for me) we'll be there to see it and cheer on our friends.

Damn, the little bump in the swell yesterday felt good.

Posted by: Bruce at August 23, 2004 12:58 PM

Just got back from a trip down South. Surfed Trestles, Salt Creek and River Jetties. The feel down there is very different. The average age at SC is about 1/2 my age. Most surfers were OK, with some rippers. However, the lack of etiquette is amazing. Guys would know you're going, then put their head down and keep paddling. Others would get vocal when they've been called off. Others would get in the way. Paddling out to the peak you're on is a given. It's a youngster's pissing hole. There were a couple of cool heads, but not very many. While there are some fun waves, I'm glad that's not my daily scene.
During the last South, we surfed River Jetties. Now THAT'S a fun deal. Rips kept crowds flowing, yet the rips were more manageable than ours. You would see them come, then paddle outside and around until you're back in calm water. Most of the folks out there would get swept. Sometimes there's a cluster of surfers, many times not. The wave was top-to-bottom, and a bit walled... making wave selection important. All said, it favors the more seasoned.
Down there made me reflect on here. There will be clean HH days w/o rips, and hordes of takers. I'm going to focus on keeping cool, laughing, expecting Salt Creek etiquette. Got to lengthen the fuse. Got to apply the golden rule...

Posted by: SFKneelo at August 23, 2004 01:02 PM

Finnegan ends his story saying how after Surfer ran articles on OB in 1990, it was the end of an era, that it was ruined. Back then SF had one lone surf shop that certainly wasn't the Safeway of surf shops it is now. Much like Holloween in the Castro, SOMA club scence or the prizes in the ceral box, nothing is ever as good today as it was when we were young. Then again, if things kept getting better as we got older, we'd probably complain of being too old to enjoy them.

It doesn't seem to me like there is much cross-fertilization between OB and Linda Mar. It's like the difference between happy hour at the warmand inviting Beach Chalet on a Friday evening and last call at Pittsburg's on Wednesday. They just don't appeal to the same people.

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 23, 2004 01:04 PM

Speaking of things that ruined surfering, did the promenade (seawall) between Noriega and Santiago change things much when it went up?

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 23, 2004 01:12 PM

some perspective on the whole ball of wax....

go to this site and poke around....
all things that are good about what it is we do...


http://www.bonzer5.com/home.htm

Posted by: korewin at August 23, 2004 01:13 PM

damn...cereal boxes, things from youth...i want a wacky wall walker again!!

Posted by: j at August 23, 2004 01:14 PM

The linda mar crew will be at OB in the next few years. You can count on it.

Remember when only a handful of skaters and surfers snowboarded? Now look at it. Even the rice-rocket crew are on KT22 now. Same thing will happen at OB. Guaranteed!

Posted by: extasy_clubber_raver at August 23, 2004 01:24 PM

i know we have it better than others, not trying to complain yes i am.

in other news:
me and my lady are showing some paintings THIS SUNDAY at our friends resturaunt in the marina! NIGHT MONKEY is the name of place at Union and Fillmore. eat free food cooked by my brother who has worked at many a fancy resturaunt here in the city, and drink cheap strong drinks made by a guy named kimo. all are welcome. starts at 6pm. i have some of your emails but lost them so just thought i would throw it down here..thanx E!

Posted by: bagel at August 23, 2004 01:26 PM

HMB buoy hit 62 yesterday. Wring the costa rican grime out of those trunks and put 'em back in service.

Re: Bonzers and Fish: woah, a 30-year long passing trend. That's got to be some kind of record.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 01:33 PM

hey bagels, SC trip on wednesday. you know what that means! slacker ass dude here is going to the glasser. which means. surfboards approaching delivery. yeeehaw!

Posted by: elias at August 23, 2004 01:36 PM

maybe that post was a bit misleading.... dropping boards at glasser wednesday. luckily he is good about turning boards out!

Posted by: elias at August 23, 2004 01:42 PM

Brucey, great analogy.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 23, 2004 01:49 PM

bagel, can you show one or two on this site for those of us that can't make the 7 hour drive North?

Posted by: Hb at August 23, 2004 01:58 PM

bagel, can you show one or two on this site for those of us that can't make the 7 hour drive North?

Posted by: Hb at August 23, 2004 01:58 PM

Snowboarding is a good analogy. Everyone is out on the slopes when it's 40 degrees and sunny. Drop the temperature 30 degrees, kick up the wind and have a few flakes fall, and the ski lodge is filled with the same people who are at Linda Mar on sunny days in knee-high waves. The lift lines become non-existent.

In a related anology, do you think there was a tow-in type debate when chair lifts came out? Grizzled mountaineers complaining that any weekend warrior could get up the mountain effortlessly, missing the entire point of rewarding a tough climb with gliding downhill.

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 23, 2004 01:59 PM

elias - you are wicked fast. The fins from Rainbow, I was told, are shipping today, so you oughta get it before the glasser is done.

The 17 second period waves tomorrow are going to be HELLA fast compared to what we've seen lately.

Bonzers are largely responsible for tri-plane hulls. Although, Bill Hickey made the first ones, a couple boards he made in 1970, for single fin surfing. The first Bonzers with tri-plane hulls were 3-4 years later (Hickey didn't make a habit of making that hull). If was not until the mid 1980s that competition shortboards commonly used that hull design. It didn't hurt that Al Merrick froms from the same stretch of coastline that the Campbells do. I think Curren was one of the early pros on tri-plane hulls.

The thruster was independently developed - Anderson saw it as adding a middle fin to a twinnie - not adding side fins to a single. To a certain extent the thruster and bonzer differ in that way - bonzer is more a single with side runners, thruster more a twin with a stabilizer. At least, from what I can tell.

There's a LOT of serious bonzer fanatics.

Posted by: blakestah at August 23, 2004 02:00 PM

another good analogy is backcountry skiing/boarding vs. lift-serve. to get the goods you have to simply work a little harder. all relative to the parking-lot and ease-of-use factor....

Posted by: jimjack at August 23, 2004 02:02 PM

Andrew: no debate, those mountaineers dig the lifts. But they will flay all comers. First chair, first lift of the day. In a whiteout blizzard. Below zero. At ages 70-80. Sometimes unknowlingly stuffing their feet into the wrong sides of the ski boot. Bruised, bleeding, bolstered with advil, and bombing around wondering where everybody else is. Sometimes they do this on chemo. Then they hoot each others' ski runs and talk story later about the great rides they had. Only choice is to bow down and acknowldege one's own powerlessness before such mammoth stoke. Mere mortals cannot keep up - I know. :)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 23, 2004 02:17 PM

"we're going off the rails like a crazy train"

fark ya, Listen to Ozzy.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 23, 2004 02:19 PM

elias yesss! cant wait to see it all finished and shiny. thanx again dude.

hb like paintings? heres the flyer..

http://www.fecalface.com/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?act=Calendar;CODE=1

my website is my real name .com

Posted by: bagel at August 23, 2004 02:21 PM

I remember after the epic El Nino season at Squaw they took down the ganj-dola and put in the "people mover" instead. Talk about backlash from the locals. Luckily my buddy and I caught probably one of the last ganj-dola's the day they were shutting it down, smoked it up right too. That was the best year Tahoe has had in a while. Everytime I go up there now it seems the KT line gets way longer.

Here is a funny Conventry site for you Phish fans, pretty funny stuff.

http://www.sover.net/~hackmohr/captive.htm

Posted by: kookdom at August 23, 2004 02:22 PM

oh ya click on the 29th, friends

Posted by: bagel at August 23, 2004 02:22 PM

Yeah the seawall changed things. It kept the sand off the highway. When it was a two-laner it would be closed for months at a time, completely covered by sand dunes. Maybe a coincidence but I also think the sand erosion began with its completion peaking during the late 90's el niño.

LONG LIVE THE SNOWY PLOVER!

Posted by: kdalle at August 23, 2004 02:25 PM

bagel has imaginary friends!

BAGEL'S IMAGINARY FRIENDS FOR PRESIDENT!!!

Posted by: j at August 23, 2004 02:26 PM

Hey we're talking about skiing again! Fall is near!!

Posted by: extasy_clubber_raver at August 23, 2004 02:30 PM

i've surfed in the rain, the snow, the wind, the cold, the fog, the sun.

i surfed big waves, i surfed small waves I surfed where i lived and I surfed in indonesia.

i surfed ob, linda mar, cowells, steamers, mavs and the jetty.......yet i'll never be as cool as all of you who KNOW IT FUCKING ALL.

YOU ARE THE FUCKING CROWDS, YOU ARE THE KOOKS.

So shut up and let the people surf and have a good time you self important typing better than you really surf bitches.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 02:31 PM

I already gave up on Tahoe years ago. Now I drive 5 minutes down Fulton to the beach and it's free.

Posted by: kookdom at August 23, 2004 02:31 PM

you guys smell that? that's a whole lot of anonymous bullshit...

Posted by: jdz at August 23, 2004 02:40 PM

Go back to LA you fucking kook

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 02:44 PM

chill out y'all, that guys been to indo! and hes surfed in the wind!

Posted by: I at August 23, 2004 02:47 PM

and i dont bitch about beginners either.

but i'm about to start with you bitch.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 02:49 PM

I think i hear the 4th period bell ringing...you better get back to class.

Posted by: jdz at August 23, 2004 02:50 PM

your off the hook I.

I gotta go over to JDZ's house and knock his shit out.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 02:51 PM

ouch, anonymous virtual physical threats..... Evolution Baby!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 23, 2004 02:55 PM

You are right, I do know it all. And I don't care if you hate me. You are bitter and I am not.

Kook

Posted by: Know-it-all at August 23, 2004 02:57 PM

bitch, ill Begin to give you a verbal lashing if you continue with your weak ass comebacks! i actually think i saw you last big swell connect a wave from Mavs to the jetty, you rip!

Posted by: I at August 23, 2004 02:58 PM

it beats the shit out of complaining about beginners.....you dont own the ocean big shot.

put up some video of your high and mighty selves. i'd like to lighten the mood. and vote on which beach you should be allowed to surf.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 02:59 PM

Whoa. What happened in here? You can come over to my house as well. We can watch a flick together.

Posted by: Kaiser at August 23, 2004 02:59 PM

yeah...dude you win. you definitely mas macho. But i really don't care about that. instead of posting diatribes, tell us about your indo, or mav's experiences because that's what i care about.

back to work.

Posted by: jdz at August 23, 2004 03:04 PM

I apolgize anonymous, your right I dont own the ocean. also I couldnt whip up any video of myself but I found a shot of you.

Im starting to feel bad now, Im out.

Posted by: I at August 23, 2004 03:09 PM

To the angry guy(s)...

the waves will be here when the human race is long gone.

People will surf regardless of what is said on this discussion forum.

Treat others like you would want to be treated.

Make other people happy and you will feel happy.

Give bad vibes and you will get bad vibes.

to all the lovers.. keep on lovin'.

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 03:16 PM

i am so so ready for school to start and
the little peckerheads will be back in classes
again daydreaming about surfing and posting
to this blog......read the url kids.

kaiser...seems like romper room in here, huh?

bet you are stoked...kids EVERYWHERE!!

Posted by: korewin at August 23, 2004 03:21 PM

Well Mr Anon, I too have surfed in all those conditions except - do people really surf when it's raining?

Posted by: Dennis at August 23, 2004 03:24 PM

i'm flattered...she's cute and stoked. and hasn't been poisoned by the "niceness report" on where she should go with her foamy.

betcha her dad will have a word for all you big shots who yell at her to "go to linda mar"

Real heroes I say....I'll look for ya at Pipe

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 03:25 PM

i like surfin' in the rain.

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 03:26 PM

Korewin, you know me! I love Sesame Street and all that good stuff. Can't get enough of it! Bert, Ernie, Kermut, Ms. Piggy, Mr. Rogers... Speaking of, does anyone remember the "Sweet Pickle Bus"? The green bus that drove around and sold books. Might have been just a California thing....

I was just curious where all these "good vibes" were on Tuesday night, Wednesday morning, Wednesday afternoon, Thursday morning, Friday morning, Friday afternoon..... I didn't feel any of them?

Happy to surf with friends anytime as it tends to shield me from all this other shit. Good friends block bad vibes.

Posted by: Kaiser at August 23, 2004 03:31 PM

Jesus, E, is that IP blocker working yet? I love the internet.

If you see JBG out there, tell him Kaiser said whats up. Great guy. Taught some of my good friends how to surf in Waikiki. Kinda makes this whole discussion trivial.

If you have to ask who JBG is, you don't really surf "pipe" i guess.

Posted by: Kaiser at August 23, 2004 03:34 PM

kaiser....


"which of these kids is doing his own thing?

which of these kids is not like the other?"

i still miss mr. hooper.

i DID have fun surfing this past week i even
caught a few gems in the slop at lindy sat.
kaiser let's hit it again soon and block the bad vibes.


Posted by: korewin at August 23, 2004 03:36 PM

John Gomes....and we are bro's.

He's also not the best vibed guy out at pipe dip shit.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 03:36 PM

surfing in the rain. i remember a couple years ago when a storm front moved thru with hard, hard offshore winds. surf was groomed and coming around 8ft or so, but the winds were blowing so damn hard you had to take three or four extra strokes in, and if you went left you'd be dropping blind because you were getting a facefull of spray. there were just three of us out. wicked fun.

another time, in tamarindo, surfed during a heavy squall at dusk. a lot of lightning was hitting further offshore, and if you were on a wave at the time it struck, the whole thing would light up around you. we kept pulling into closing-out tubes just to try and get the lit-up view from the inside.

Posted by: g. at August 23, 2004 03:38 PM

ok...i guess, hiv and aids free.

but free, if you keep ripping the assholes of whores, you aint gonna stay that way.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 03:43 PM

Yeah, but he isn't a dick when he is just hangin out either.....

Glad he is one of your bros! Seriously, tell him that some dipshits from SF that were out there a year ago said whats up and thanks for sharing the stoke!

Posted by: Kaiser at August 23, 2004 03:44 PM

i'm not smart enough....i'm a stoned out good vibed surfer.

JUST STOP PICKING ON THE BEGINNERS AND FOAMIES!

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 03:47 PM

I'm so ready for this fall, BRING IT ON!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 23, 2004 03:51 PM

Here's the angry anonymous dude -

....that's him in the background, running away!

Posted by: Dave at August 23, 2004 03:56 PM

Funny, that kid on the surfboard is a compliment. Hope I'm stoked like like that when I'm 60.

Posted by: Lizard at August 23, 2004 04:00 PM

just chill out y'all... worked for me for a few thousand years.

Posted by: iceman at August 23, 2004 04:06 PM

does anybody surf in the rain?? EVERYBODY does up north, you don't have a choice. nothing like that foggy, i think i'm hallucinating feeling after surfing in the rain/snow, when you're walking up the beach trying to figure out if you're dreaming or not. very, very odd.

lots of intelligence being shown here today. when i'm old and wise i hope i can live up to the standard being set.

Posted by: j at August 23, 2004 04:07 PM

yup...see me smiling. stoked.

i'll ride anything, anywhere.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 04:07 PM

central america (june 04)

Posted by: as at August 23, 2004 04:09 PM

"things i would like, right now" - a pictorial essay by me


(don't forget to wax the rail so you don't fall off)

Posted by: j at August 23, 2004 04:15 PM

rain surfin'.

seem to always have some of my best sessions in the rain. maybe it is b/c you are one of the only ones out. or the feeling of sitting in salty liquid while fresh liquid is dropping down on you. plus it seems like it stays fairly glassy (at least down here) on rainy days.

"it's raining, you are going out there?"
well, yeah.

Posted by: Hb at August 23, 2004 04:16 PM

nice one j.. some of this too maybe?

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 04:23 PM

i was surfing a spot on maui once in the rain. lilikoi(sp? passion fruit) that fell to the jungle floor, had made thier way into a river, and where now flowing into the line-up. the waves where pretty fun. the lopez brothers showed up with peter mccabe and suddenly gerry and victor started throwing lilikoi at you when you took off on a wave. soon that morphed into a full on game with points scored for hitting a rider at the crux of a manuever. and points scored if you could catch an incoming lilikoi. one of the silliest fun sessions ever all on a gray funky surf day.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 23, 2004 04:25 PM

sounds wonderful. a game of grab ass with half dressed men.

next post please.

Posted by: at August 23, 2004 04:29 PM

saw the this guy/guitar in concert on saturday.. holy shit!! made me want to quit playing music forever.. but.. damn.. also very inspiring!

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 04:32 PM

3to5, I know Gerry and he is bad vibes man!

HA! Just playin' as usual. Where were you this weekend? I heard we missed a little something at our favorite creek bed. BTW, you gotta check the stick out. Pretty freakin cool. Then you can walk me thru the best fin setup on this bad boy. Never thought a single fin could be so much fun.....

J, just what the doctor ordered. Great timing.

Now back to my regularly scheduled postings:

August Surprise

Bar Surprise

Posted by: Kaiser at August 23, 2004 04:35 PM

wow...that's a lot of lettuce...i guess i could go for a nice organic lettuce salad, too, maybe with some italian dressing?

Posted by: j at August 23, 2004 04:36 PM

*SURPRISE* she IS wearing underwear!! you were right kaiser *pays his $10 bet*

Posted by: j at August 23, 2004 04:38 PM

Back to shredding Aquatic Park for me for the next few weeks. Doing the Tiburon Mile with my dad next month. Good way to get back into shape for better waves...

g. -- Not sure if it was the offshore day you're talking about but I was driving up the 1 near Daly City a few years ago during mega-offshores and saw the roof get ripped off a house and fly over the road dropping splinters, nail, shingles, etc. I think e and robme were there.

e -- drool....

j -- drool drool...

Posted by: mwsf at August 23, 2004 04:41 PM

kaiser, i got some fun in. nothing to blog about.

whew! thought that was my sister dancing on tables again........

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 23, 2004 04:43 PM

e - pardon my ignorance, who's guitar is that? looks like he has 3 bass guitar strings and 5 regular strings? does he tune the bottom 5 standard and the top just drop lower or ?!?!

Posted by: j at August 23, 2004 05:00 PM

i love this.

mostly, the picture in my mind of korwin as a kid singing along to s. street. classic.

hopefully by the end of the day we can all get together for a group hug and shake hands and forget that we sounded so rad.

Posted by: elias at August 23, 2004 05:02 PM

whattup j.. that's Charlie Hunter's ax.. 3 bass strings going to a bass amp.. 5 guitar strings going to a mesa guitar amp. I think it's a Novax guitar. Charlie plays both at the same time.. crazy jazzy walking basslines whole ripping-out sculpted, hyper-technical, groovy leads on the 5 guitar strings.. He is an alien. A total virtuoso..

berkeley high school grad..

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 05:03 PM

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 05:04 PM

BAND PRACTICE!!!

soo psyched!!

later y'all!

Posted by: e at August 23, 2004 05:09 PM

Posted by: mwsf at August 23, 2004 05:12 PM

Rain? Sheeet- I got hail one time in the Lindy Lot. It was a rough session so I was glad to return to my yuppie hot tub and a stiff wheat grass smoothie with tofu snacks. . . er, something like that.

Actually, the closest I got to hypothermia (other than skiing or camping) was surfing EG Pimp's place two different times. Frickin' cold when the north winds are working. I don't know why but it was nasty- blue toes & chattering teeth category. It's a problem if you're still cold after 30 mins. in the car with the heater on high.

J, you're killin' us. You know we're all trying to focus on work and keep our day jobs. Great images.

Posted by: Bruce at August 23, 2004 05:23 PM

You Kango, I don't think that you're dense
Buy you went about the matter with no experience
You should know, she doesn't need a guy like you
She needs a guy like me, with a high IQ
And she'll take to my rap, cause my rap's the best
The educated rapper MD will never fess
So when I met her, I wasted no time
But stuck up Roxanne paid me no mind
She thought my name was Barry, I told her it was Gary
She said she didn't like it so she chose to call me Barry
She said she'd love to marry, my baby she would carry
And if she had a baby, she'd name the baby Harry
Her mother's name is Baby, which is really quite contrary
Her face is really hairy, and you can say it's scary

Posted by: EMD at August 23, 2004 05:24 PM

p.s. Kaiser is a dog

Posted by: Bruce at August 23, 2004 05:25 PM

Nah, I would have been a dog if I posted this one:

Posted by: Kaiser at August 23, 2004 05:53 PM

just a late afternoon thanks for all the shout-outs to Silas, E and Tomstah. Yep, we were in that 3' shore pound... fun!

Posted by: robme at August 23, 2004 06:13 PM

wow...

Posted by: j at August 23, 2004 06:30 PM

experimental nws gadget

with wind and wave overlay options, and fwd/reverse stepping.

Posted by: g at August 23, 2004 08:00 PM

charlie hunter is awesome

Posted by: astro at August 23, 2004 09:55 PM

would he be a better musician though if he only played one instrument? he looks so concentrated all the time. i like his sound though for sure.

Posted by: bagel at August 24, 2004 08:25 AM

Sometimes a payday loan online is the way to go for cash in advance.  The online payday loan is a fast cash loan until payday that lasts until shoes loan money to the next way fore yet the no fax payday loan exists too.

Posted by: payday loan at January 10, 2005 02:26 PM


When you need a

payday loan

online then you can try a cash advance loan until your payday that also is an online payday loan.  It has the likeness of a fast cash loan which gets no faxing and the sandwich of the show with the payday loan no fax cash advance loan. There is also the online payday loan that is a cash loan fast.

 

Posted by: payday loan at January 10, 2005 06:13 PM
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