E's Surf Report

another good interview e...keep em coming.

"somewhere" is awesome but only certain times. Getting weird scratches from the rock reef was always fun.

After staying the night down in the south bay i made the drive up and over 92 to check the swell hitting our coast.........its here and raw like E mentioned. Deciding not to chance OB's fury i dipped into San Mateo Countys most famous secret spot for some fun ones. Could feel the concentrated energy. Definately a wake up call. Summer is over. Go surf today.

oh, it's hump day?

definately frumpy and grumpy out there this am. hard to get into the sweet spot fo' sure. good to get to the beach and see some juice though.

It's fun watching your buddy get washed up on the reef at "somewhere" and hearing old men whine about people being out.

Great interview Ethan....I think you captured Alex's stoked, humble and easy going style as best as you can on print or over the net.

Anyway here is an example of his humble nature from a post I wrote in Nov. 02

Nov. 19 2002....

I rounded the Grt Hwy corner like Bobby Weir sang so many times and years ago and was like holy shit!

The surf was going off! Double o' head for sure and bigger! All the guys coming out said the surf doubled in size in like an hour. I saw this guy drop in to a FUCKING BOMB and bottom turn and a 50 yard section broke. He straightened out and rode for as long as he could, stumbled and was gone. Next you saw his board bounce way up over the 8+ whitewater. He swam in (over the next 10 mins) and sure enough it was Brazo Alex. I met up with him and I was like fuck Alex that shit was a bomb! He said "thank you".

I said if you want you can take my big wave leash. (I wasn't going to be needing it!) So he did and was back down the cliff after telling me that the leash breaker was his 5th wave! He grabbed 6 more while I watched with the binocs including a tube right and a looong had to be tubed left with pumps in the face on his 8 ft Brewer.

Can you say "Clean Up"! Yeah, that is what happened to me this morning!

After finally stopping down in SMC, I got out and threw on the wettie to get me some olas. The surface was only textured from the lump that 3 days of outer water winds create. Otherwise, it was pretty smooth. Most of the waves were pretty burly or otherwise wouldn't let ya in.

Paddling out wasn't too hard. After about 15 minutes of just sitting and waiting watching a few little nuggets go by, a huge set rolled in. Wave #1 clearly about to lay the smack down on 75% of the lineup. Sure enough! SMACK! Mostly everyone proceeded to get smacked around by the next 3 waves as well.

Welcome to groundswell!

Although the waves were few and far between, it was a nice change to surf some legit swell. The waves were moving much faster then the windswell we have had for the last 4 months. Just a bit of a warm up for what is about to come.

My back already feels the pains of winter.

Cool interview E, just the right time as we get our swell this mornin'. As for me its gonna be cuppa coffe, and maybe drive the coast south and see....cove+reef=surf?

This sequence is killer, huge snap off the lip. And that bottom turn made it all happen...

Oh and congradulations to the Womens Beach Volley ball team for last nights victory....Gotta love the Olympics.

funs ones at the beach last night and this morning. Felt good to get a solid drubbing by an outside set. Come on fall!

e & lerm & all you other early season takers -- well done! my sleep patterns have been all screwed up in anticiption of this swell, gotta get out tonight to get the monkey off me back. looks like a drive will be required by then -- drat winds!! blakestah, say it ain't so!!

other news: just ordered a dig cam with 10x zoom & decent video. hope to be supplying some location-unspecified visual goodies for niceness real soon.

that LP sequence is pretty sweet, makes me hungry for surf. hopefully the W winds dont get too fierce for a PM southerly mission.

Pretty good outside setup at his street this morning. Snadbars need some serious grooming and infill for winter though

word, kdalle. definetly saw some promise out there.

I hit it early this am for only 45 minutes for paddle out, ride, and back to car--obligations suck. Got a couple fun rides though. A few friendly folks out there. The waves were pretty hard to get into as e discribed but fast wall-up before closeout sections were fun. I got caught inside by a thickish slightly overhead wave at the end of my alotted time and was dragged with board in hands all the way inside. Oh Yeah, now I remember ground swells! It wasn't that far though cuz they were breaking on the inside bar anyway. Felt good.

Saw a wave barrel at OB this a.m. on my way to work. Not a big one, but one nonetheless (no one on it...too bad.) Most of the other set waves appeared to be closing out. Looked fun. Now I'm a desk jockey.

the low tide is this afternoon so everyone go surf under the bridge after work today.

i hit up a northerly spot and altho not huge, purely glass... real fun.

do you think it was wrong of me to get spooked by a seal harbor that was dedvoring a large bloody salmon? creeped me out.

STEAMER LANE

SURF
4-5 ft. - shoulder to head high with occasional 7 ft. and good conditions.

We have some nice winter shape showing on a fine August morning. Seeing surf through all the classic winter sections...with the best shape around the slot/indicator and the section just outside of the indicator. Looks fun and racy with some fast sections and longer shoulders connecting to the inside. Look for a building crowd and for the surf to slow down on the higher tide. Fun waves are likely throughout the day

elais is probably just getting to the glasser that bastard.

that should read "devouring"

Great - 365 minus weekend days a year and this. What is it about all you new people claiming a peak and territrory and then claiming empty lineup's and whiny old men.
What old men are you speaking of?
I am 45 and can on any board - out surf out paddle out maneuver out style and out cool anyone of you posters.
I am sorry this blog is too nice - this fact makes me angrier and that is not good...or is it?
Furthermore, the "empty San Mateo peaks" break in shark infested waters hence no crowd.
Don't be a dork.
GO HOME

low tide of over 3 foot today....

sorry.....it's all mush on the pts and reefs......

spooked, nah, you had nothing to worry about. I'm sure there was no chance of whitey coming by and deveouring the seal that was devouring the salmon......

Caught a sunset session and a morning session at different parts of the beach. The sunset session was churny and windy, so the few waves I caught properly were kind of garbled, but still fast and playful (one right in particular gave me a big smile). But mainly I flailed at the backs of the good waves and caught the close-outs. :-)

Ethan, from your description, I would swear that this morning I was at exactly the spot you surfed (from what I glean from the blog, it could well be nearby, at least; I was there 7:45-ish to 10:30). REALLY hard to stay in the right spot; I'd get pulled in or out or down the beach. The paddles ranged from trivial to impossible. I really only caught one good set wave today, but it was super fun, and for once I pulled out at the right time. A couple of other little rides and wipe-outs, plenty of poundings and the most underwater time since spring.

I'm heading down to Monterey tomorrow for a few days (hazard warning to all of you down there).

we're having a game of twister in the office, we're looking for a few more if anyone wants to join in

ahh crap! sorry dial-uppers, i didn't preview and that shizzz came out large.

OB: jah it's got " Kick s.s. sharkbait's arse into next week" written all over, which is good news for you peeps. The beast has awakened. Foggy/almost sun and of course inconsistent in every possible way. Shoulder - "oh @#$%!" sized waves, plus plenty of whitewater. Size, speed, shape, current, peaks, no peaks, sets, mush, nada, closeouts...all over the map . Rides and wipeouts. And waiting. And skunking. And drops. And plenty on the head. Lulls and channels that let a surfer get nearly outside before a sneaker lurches outta the blue and ships 'em shoreward. I suspect Advil sales will rise sharply after today. Cheers!

This just pure suprise: Surfed and ditched work this am at a southerly secret spot. Was working for a while until the tide killed it. Shocked to find a legit 3-4sec hand drag barrel until the wave shut down and annhilated me in 4' of water. Fun, open vertical faces could be found. Fine conditions all considered, glassy, some energy. The usual refrain of come on winter!

Got to get some work done. Wish I had a trust fund...

PS: The girlfriend is playing a solo acoustic show at the Elbow Room (!?) tonight. show's at ten.

out cool?

Not to be an asshole but...."legit 3-4 second hand drag barrel?"

It must be the worlds best kep't secret that spot.

Drop it down to a 1-2 seconds and we are all good.

i concur with no name. not to be an a-hole..but 3-4 seconds? i mean 3-4 mississippi's? time is sped up in the barrel though..but im sure bvb got a 7 second barrel at fort point this morning. after he had sex with his friends hot wife anyway, so no big deal.

HAHA!

bad use of commas in that one, sorry. also if you have i-tunes the reggae radio station is worth checking out..the ZION one..

This morning I caught a backside barrel and dug my inside rail really hard into the face of the wave. My board sucked up the face as I kept my feet planted on the board. The board went over my head and I was upside down inside the barrel. Then as the board came down with the lip, I pulled it in under me so I guess I kinda did a 360 inside the barrel. That was fun ;) It musta lasted 3-4 seconds.

BVB tubed....

http://www.pbase.com/image/31677651

Hey Folks,
I'm new to the board and am in need of some help. I've been surfing for a few years and consider myself an average surfer. I surf mostly in so cal but also surf the bay area when school's in session. However, my surfing has kind of hit of plateau lately (in terms of size and confidence). When the surf gets over 6 or 7 feet, I can paddle out but find that I hardly go for waves. I feel as if I'm not going to make the drop and just keep holding back. Now, granted I had the same feelings when I was first learning to surf (after the very first two sessions a head-high waved seemed impossible). But now those are my favorite waves. But for some reason I just can't get past this barrier.

Any good advice? I know I should just say fuck it, drop in and take the wipeout a few times until I get the hang of it...but does anyone have any tips to boost surfing confidence?

Thanks for any advice...I appreciate your help!

NeedHelp, I find that just going and knowing you are going to go no matter what helps in those situations. In most cases, you get your ass handed to you at OB on waves like that. But, if those 6-7 footers are not sucking out on 2 feet of water at certain spots along the beach, you might be surprised at how little pain is inflicted upon thee.

Its like riding a bike. When you learn that falling doesn't hurt too bad, you lose the fear of actually riding that bike. Same deal here.

Yeah, you might blow out an eardrum, snap your neack back a bit, get ragdolled, but at least you set the standard as to what the "worst case" is. Then, get back on the bike and do it again.

positions properly, choose a good wave, paddle for wave, stand up.

same deal at 3 ft, 4ft and 5ft.

gues what the deal is at 6ft and 7ft?

you got it....same deal.

BVB - after reading your posts for a long time -you spout a whole lot of bullshit - like someone who is dumb or with little education trying hard to sound smart - shut the hell up you angry prick.

Anyone know this guy?

http://www.pbase.com/image/29177353

What is his story...

NH,

Recommend you work on situational awareness and board control.

Bigger drops entail, generally spealing, just bigger wipeouts with worse beatings and longer hold-downs.

Most of the bad things that can happen to you involve loss of control of your board and unintended contact with other surfers or obstacles in the water. A well developed sense of situational awareness and good reflexes for maintaining control of your board -- independent of a leash (e.g. use it but pretend it ain't there) -- will assist you in avoiding impact related trauma.

That said, a few hard knocks are pretty much par for the course. They're gonna happen. Have someone watching your back when you're pushing it, and bear in mind that most surf injuries happen in small waves, not big waves.

I used to have a bad attitude. They called me BVD but it just doesn't have the same effect as BVB. Go figure.

Nh, Try swimming and bodysurfing in waves that size first. If you can handle the water without the board you should have no fear of the churning slabs of water, shallow sand bars, reef, or sharks.

Red Board is a longtime local. Is a Dr. in a hospital so he's got the surfers schedule.

Charges, but is probably going to start to slow it down in the next few years as he is getting past his prime.

Does give "instructions" to those that don't show proper etiquette.

NH - few other ideas:

1. try to get a sense of the patterns of the sets and then force yourself to go. On days when they are coming consistently, for example with 4 waves per set, just commit to taking off on the 3rd or 4th anytime you seem to be lined up. No guarantee, but it can help reduce the likelihood of muti-wave punishment if you don't make the drop.

2. keep a running tally of marginally makeable but scary waves, and how many you went for & made. i try to go for at least 3 of these everytime i'm out - and i move further inside when i'm finding that i'm not in position for such waves. usually plenty of these at ob.

3. find a picture of a kaiser late drop and paste it under the brim of your hoodie for inspiration.

I wonder what I should write on e's blog tomorrow?

Guston

Thanks very much for the tips everyone. I really appreciate the support and advice. I guess over the next month or two I'll just surf and swim to get my self into shape and put the things you all have stated into practice from the fall season.

Many thanks!

Now that the swell is here my thoughts are turning towards big waves, and whether or not I should get a new board to charge 10-15 ft OB.

What's everybody else planning on using for those big days?

steve -o

buddy...just use the same board you used on "all those other big days" you were out "charging" the 10-15 footers

http://www.uliboards.com/boards.htm

I'm gonna use my 8' ULI round pin tail for the DOH-TOH days! I suggest you do the same!

I'm gonna use my king-size bed and pull the covers over my head til they go away!

Red board's "instructions" to a friend of mine involved

- spitting in his face
- yelling that he's been surfing here for 45 years and my friend should show respect
- calling him something along the lines of a "fucking tranny kook" who should "go back to LA"

My friend is a good surfer and a pretty non-confrontational guy. He understands and tries to observe the proper etiquette. I watched the little tiff develop from the line up, they were both paddling for a wave, my friend was on the right side of the red board guy. The peak had been working both left and right at the same time to some degree - earlier we had shared a wave that way. Red board went right, my friend stopped paddling so he could take the wave. The guy didn't get a great ride, he may have been off his line a little bit out of fear my friend was going to drop in, or he may have just been a little off. It was a marginal wave in (the all to common recently) 3 foot range. So as he's paddling back he starts saying a bunch of shit.

My friend told the guy he wasn't sure which way he was going at first and when he went right he got out.

What do people here think - is that a breach?

I was kind of laughing at the whole situation, it was kind of a slow evening session a couple of days ago.

e - a section with pictures & descriptions of the bigger fp / kellys characters could be kind of funny...

rockaway

right on with the Zion radio I-tunes heads up. i have been listening to that since my work got me an i-book 6 months ago. irrie.

Burning Spear in SB quick review:

great mix of uppercrest SB hotties, hippies and rastas. good vibe. everyone happy. he was no more than 50 feet from anyone in the club. Winston Rodney comes out WAY too baked to even look out at the crowd. played his best songs at the end. almost too stony. wouldn't be felt in a big club. he finally started coming down and playing better. he is very old and loves to bang with his hands on the drums.

slims will be a good show but don't expect high energy.

surfed up here in noggland again. not quite as big as the beach but still some of that energy showing. surprisingly fun. I had one of those duckdives where you think you are going to sneak under the lip, and you do only to get sucked back over into the froth. that hasn't happened in a while.

and can one of you get off Zion radio? I just tried to log on and it booted me because of the "free user limit". Bagel I think you should be working not listening to tunes...so I take your spot. thanks

Yo truth,

What's with the vibe? I have no intention of putting my neck on the line if the swell is over 15 foot (faces). I'm not making any claims to greatness, but I would like to get out on a big day. Go get some surf today and chill out.

Cool, at my work some guy came in and shit all over the walls and floor. Real fun stuff right there.

jdz, the best are the ones that crack you on the back/neck. YES!

I couldnt stay away now that I am more like the rest of you and have day job.

The guy on the red board is doc something or other. He's a great surfer and a bit of a hard ass, but like anywhere else show respect and you'll get it in return. This man deserves your respect. I see him turn for a wave and I dont bother. He is a bit of a wave hog but I respect him and try not get in his way. He use to yelp at me and now he smiles and greets me in a friendly manner. It takes time to gain respect from the locals. I surfed all up and down the yeah everyday for the past two years and still get no props from the locals, but I have thier respect cause thats what I have earned.
Peeps on this blog have to remember that not everyone that surf has that niceness outlook or vibe. Like it or not surfing is competative as well as cliqish and it's common that we will butt heads. Also keep in mind that some have less to loose than others and dont really give a fuck. So watch it when you decide you want to confront someone thats a yapper. Some of those loud mouths can actually back it up.

pez

steve-o.. all i have is my 6'6"... i'm hoping to get a thicker 7'8" gun or something.. i'd probably go bigger but i want to be able to duckdive the beeatchh..

most of the shops have used guns.. that's what i've been lookin' at.

sucks to blow $500 or whatever for a board that you only use 10 times a year..

Lewis and some of the other rippers prefer smaller boards even on big days at the beach.. blakestah, kdalle and some of the seasoned older crew like big sticks over 8 foot.. i don't know how they duckdive those muthafuckers.. but.. they catch alot of waves..

ian...you mean the ones that drive your mug onto the deck of your board...yeah baby! That other thing you mentioned...nasty!

ya Ian your job sounds awesome!

sorry jdz..

one time i fell off of a wave and my board went up and over the falls and slammed me in the side of the head. killer.

thats sorry about the zion radio..

If you are gonna show one, make sure you show the other side:

http://www.pbase.com/image/29177332

pez is back!

jdz, "those duckdives where you get sucked back over into the froth"---you mean there's another kind? What's the secret? Someone was saying a while back that they should have more footage of popups and paddle-ins in surf videos. What I want is a video of good surfers paddling out.

that red board guy is a legend. he's in amazing shape for his age and catches twice as many waves as anyone else in the water. plus he rips. he does coffin drops and headstands and shit like that all the time, it's nuts. he gave me a talking-to one day at a point and i deserved it. i totally respect him and do my best to stay out of his way.

Reports of some large chunks flying around at the beach!

My neck as just loosening up a bit from the smackdown I got this morning. I guess I might need to misalign it again after this work thing.

Fog - goeth awayeth

I don't know anyone on a ripper stick when it is DOH and blowing hard offshore. Usually they just get caught inside and you never see them again. A nice 7'4" suits me well on a smaller outer bar day, but at least an 8 footer when it gets serious. And there are even some days when you ride an 8 footer and it STILL feels too small.

You can duckdive any length board if the nose is low in volume.

There are 10 foot faces rolling in right now.

Crotchety old men on longer boards because they can't ride shorter boards anymore surfing Fort Point because they can't handle the beach delivering lip service to anyone in earshot to preserve their drop-in-on-everybody wave count.

Yeah - he's my flippin idol.

i'm in the bigger-board-market too. E, you think you can duckdive a 7'8"? I've been thinking about something closer to 6'10", this will be my first (non-lb) over 6'4" and i don't think i can duckdive something that big. From observation in the water, it seems that most guys riding big guns don't even attempt to duckdive, they just get out when the gettings good and otherwise ditch & dive.

Experienced OB chargers- any thoughts on a good size for a guys's first big(ish) wave board? I'm sick of getting outside on a big day and realizing i can;t catch anything and everyone else has a foot at least more board under them than me. I'm not too big (5'11" 160 lbs). Also- for such mini-guns, what's the recomendations on tails & fin set-ups?

Blakestah, fired up!!!

Hope the surf was fun. I will take my punishment later, I am sure of it. Hope my 6'6'' in car can deal. I need more foam I think.

back when i was a young whipper snapper my 7'2" pearson pintail rocked ob on the over 6' days. always good to have a wee bit more length at ob for paddling and getting in a little sooner. now that i'm just another greying dork the 8' ULI is looking pretty sweet now. i just hope i have enough wind to inflate it.

ian: sorry to hear about the mess - like you don't get enough of that at pissifica... i'm guessing you do direct service work? if so, thanks, that work is much-needed and way underpaid/underappreciated.

Dr. Dick's Dub Shack is my favorite on i-tunes radio! Sounds a little tingy though.

Go bigger than you think you can handle, not smaller. Learn to ride the bigger outside days, then learn to use a smaller board out there. My sincere advice.

My first outside day, I paddled out next to an old-timer on my 7'4". He was on a 9'6". Of course, he caught EVERYTHING in sight. I grabbed a bunch of waves, but started getting board chatter by the bottom turn, and mostly fell. I upped to an 8'6" on the advice of the better outer bar surfers I talked to. Next time out, big Jack hooted me into a wave, and I rode it just fine. Then I rode again and again. There've been many times on my 8'6" since then that I've been surrounded by guys on 7 foot boards not catching waves.

Learn on too much board first. Then, scale down as you see fit. It is gonna take 2-3 seasons before you get comfortable enough to change boards anyway. I'll sell my 8'6" (well used, a few dings) to anyone interested for $200. Its a really good outer bar board, made for OB, and the one I learned on.

Personally seen the Doc on his big red board on 15 foot faces and throwing waves at Sloat.

Not saying he didn't tell anyone to get fucked who didn't deserve it....just telling you what I saw.

He's about 55.

I'm sure I'll get some healthy sarcasm from this question, but I have been reading this blog for a few months now and I've gotta ask. I think the site's great and it's helped me score some gems but I do have one big question: What the fuck do you all do for work? All these people talking about naps and beanbags and putting boards in the closet and ditching and long lunches. Are you the remnants of dot-commers or have you all just managed to find dream jobs? I don't mean this aggressively, I'm just incredulous at the apparent freedom of y'all while I sit in the ole cave 8 to 5ing it. Any job openings at your place? I mean, I've been a landscaper, a student, a waiter, and now I work in healthcare. Never have I had all-day access to the internet (like y'all, apparently) coupled with come-and-go surf freedom. What's the secret?

it's also good to ride the big board a few times when you'd normally be riding your steady. it really helps work out the kinks of paddling, duck diving, foot placement and understanding the charecter of the board. nothing worse then charging into serious conditons not knowing the sweet spots of your board or discovering the diff between duck diving a 6'6" and a 7'6" as you take a set on the head.

Tomstah, where you been? Haven't seen ya in a bit.

3to5, on the same thought, I was thinking I needed a few paddle-outs with my new (used) board I got for winter. I guess you would advise this eh? Thinking about paddling into a bigger wave on a new board doesn't really comfort me. Besides, I am bound to kill someone in the process.

Cave: I take naps but that is because I get to work before you and I leave after you. Pick your spots. I also am the following: BIGASSSUVDRIVINGINTERNETLOVINGFOOL and I do appriciate my situation. And this situation means I MUST sit behind a computer all day.

I have been to the end of the internet and back again. If you can steer thru porn and gambling and all the other vices, it really isn't all that interesting to be honest. So, I come here and post pics of semi-clothed girls I find along my journeys.

Kaiser-

Is it time yet??

and lollipops!

ok...now I'm fired up to try my 8'0" again. I was kinda sour on the thing and was thinking about selling, but now I think I'll give her a go again.

e- I made this offer last winter, and i'll make it again. If you feel like trying a larger board, you can use the 8'0. It's a Hinds...pretty standard gun shape. probably way to big and thick for ya...but maybe worth a try. lmk.

jdz.. i'm down. that would be sick!

thanks bruddah.. but.. if you have thoughts of using it.. you should keep it in your shed for the right day. don't lend that sucka out.

Re the Doc, I appreciate the background info. He clearly has surf skills, and he had "local" type character written all over him. I'm a little surprised he's an MD given the ugliness in the water. Hate to imagine his bedside manner "take three advils for the swelling and go back to LA you fucking tranny"

Basically I think demanding respect while behaving like that on a 3 foot day at Kellys is a joke. I have respect for people who are stoked.

I mean even if my friend threw him off his line the yelling was totally unnecessary. There was this younger guy with longish hair also on a red longboard who starting piping up too backing the Dr. - even more unecessary.

cave - same with kaiser, work behind a comp, but start anywhere from 830 to 9 and finish anywhere between 6 and 8, plus usually get some work done from home later in the night.

he's right about the porn, too. all the porn gets boring after awhile. fun to look for about 10 seconds, but i'd rather go to a bar and at least THINK i've got a chance (altho from the pic of me on the motorbike you can all tell i don't have much of one...that and would be hard to bring one home to the wife....)

hours can be the shits, but the benefits are there.

IT'S THAT TIME KAISER (SINCE MY DAMN TWISTER FOTO GOT BLOCKED BY WEBSHOTS OR SOMETHING).

So that was you I saw at the end of the internet Kaiser?

I myself made it through to the other end here in SF being a "web person."

Luckily I work at a place where everyone is in the dark about how long it takes me to do the things I do, therefore, time is on my side. Coding is sweet like that. You can always throw some code jargon at the marketing dudes and watch them get flustered and walk away.

J,
Is it the underwear pic?

Yeah, I wonder around aimlessly in internet land so you might pass by every now and then....

Ok, since requests were made:

What I would pay to judge one of these...

I could even hold that there camera if needed...

oh, is the twister pic working for you guys? hmm...i don't see anything - JUST LIKE ON THE SURFPULSE CAM RIGHT NOW!!

kaiser, please practice first. i'm worried the pointy nose of your loose board could pop a hole in my ULI. HA!

cave, most cube jobs mean internet access. also sales provides freedom if you kick ass.

Blakestah's right IMHO. Bigger=better for big days. No, I can't duck dive it and I sometimes get rejected. But I can cover alot of distance quicky. There also this weird technique I've developed that will give you a broken nose if done incorrectly. My boards are long enough that instead of duckdiving,as the broken wave approaches I sit on the tail, lean back , lift the nose and pop over the top of whitewater on wave up to head high or so. But like Owl Chapman I've taken to riding one of my old guns in everything up to about 10' when I switch to a modern rhino.

Just a crotchety old guy who can't ride a short board anymore but I refuse to surf FP or DM. That's retirement and time to hang it up or move.

i'm a coder/computer-lackey/desk-jockey/screen-junky.. can't surf during the day.. gotz to get it on the dawn-patrol.. don't make much money.. but.. have decent hours (9:20-5:30). in front of the screen ALL DAY LONG!! i'll bet many of the usual posters are techy/computer-headz???

Thanks for the responses, I guess what I asked has more to do with my own life and really trying to figure out how I can have the surf-friendly schedule and lifestyle. I guess that's what it's all about...

dude, my eyes are probably just as square as yours from staring at the screen from 9:20-5:30. same exact hours, but sometimes I duck out for the 2+ hour lunch session. just has to be done sometimes, mental health reasons usually.

BIG WAVE BOARD: 7'4" Goin (Only ridden it a few times, hope to get some DOH-OB this winter)

I-TUNES: DJ Baby Ace and Dr Dick Dub Shack (tinny cuz it's lo-res), Creation-Steppin is nice too.

RED BOARD GUY: I try to avoid these local guys. How bout that guy that yells 'alien' everytime he paddles out, in a very raspy voice? Would be great to see some of these guys go to Santa Cruz, and receive some "love" from my friends. ha.

JOB: I am web designer. I'm always online looking for surf-related photos.

SF TRANNIES: I am one.

OLD SURFERS: I went to central america this summer with my friend and his dad. His dad is 66 years old and was ripping. Hats off to the senior surfers. Hope I still surf at that age!

hi, my name's caveman, i'm an aquarius and i'm a manager/monitorhead at a non-profit. i like big waves on my thick 7'8" M10 and steep takeoffs in tropical waters.

power to the cube dwellers!

look to the caveman for all your open-source/non-profit/techy needs!

now.. if i can just figure out this javascript date trickery.. hmmm... back to it!

something just occured to me.

"at my work some guy came in and shit all over the walls and floor"

i can see how one could shit on the floor, just stand up, take a step away from the seat, hunch over and push. but to actually get shit on a wall you'd have to actually first have to shit on the floor, than pick it up and use it on the wall. NASTY ASS MOTHERF*****!! now i'm really not touching those coffee straws at work.

video games. sometimes i get here at 10am, take a 2 hour lunch and leave at 5. sometimes im here for 72 hours straight or more. i dont go out if i need more than a 7'2. i like to longboard sometimes. im a libra.

actually, if you had really bad diarrhea i suppose you could just stand up and drop a liquid bomb out of the chamber. still nasty ass.

kaiser - i don't think you'd be able to hold that camera in the reef situation above. i know i couldn't, blood pressure would be so low i'd pass out.

yeah, anyone that can post more than a message a day on here has a pretty good gig. i don't post much, but i read this blog everyday - so i guess i should consider myself very fortunate. plus, i gots a sick view of the city and bay out my window and can come and go as i please. but i'd say i spend more time reading this damn blog each week than i do in the water!! and that's nothing to be proud of....

I have to drive 10 minutes to get some decent food. I can go another 8 and be at either Lindy lot or Sloat.

When it is good, I eat sand for lunch.

i sit in a cube. i work for the Man. i take muni downtown with a nasal drip grossing out some old chinese lady after my dawn patrol. But..i don't have to be here until 10, so i can dp pretty much whenever, without having to get up at the crack. My name is Luke and I am an alcholic.

well, not yet. i definetly smoke too much ganj, though.

i split time doing web design, print production, and xhtml+css coding in a cubicle in some lame company downtown, right near e's work. my job really sucks but i get to play on the internet a lot. lately all the message board crap has become a lot less fun and i realize i need a new job and some motivation.

i like to boogie and drink cheap beer.

i've been kicking myself all day for checking the shitty north end for too long this morning and running out of time by the time i saw the fun-looking middle.

I am luke, minus the ganja.

Own my own business. It's a 12 hr a day / 7 days a week thing. I took half of today off for obvious reasons. I have ADD I guess and need to be destracted every hour or so. The internet is the biggest waste of time in human history. Back to work..

I am fully convinced that Reef's marketing does not work.

Hey, I'm Fred the Cancerian from New Jersey.
I like collecting records and exploring
the cave of the unknown.

Hey, I'm Kate and I am a Taurus
I love tomatoes and black-capped
Chickadees

1. When did people start kitesurfing Pleasure Point? It looks pretty kool, then again it doesn't look to kool. I don't think it would be possible to windsurf it?

2. Is it faster to return from Santa Cruz to SF via HWY 17, 85 and 280 than 1?

lots longer on the 1, if its sunny and the waves are good, like today!

What happens when Doc calls a local a transplant? Does he get his geriatric ass handed to him?

I've never had anyone say anything to me ever in the lineup in 20 years surfing here and Hawaii. I've only told one guy to get out of the water because he was littering on the beach. I wonder what I'd do if someone said something like that to me? Kill the fucker?

found myself in the water this morning with a pack of kids thirty-five years younger than me. hee hee. big fun.

found myself in the water this morning with a pack of kids thirty-five years younger than me. hee hee. big fun.

I care about localism.

wow a hint of winter and its up to localism, etc. E nice job on the wave descriptions, though like you said yesterday keep the expectations low and you always end up psyched. Was stoked to see juice. I'm calling it head and a half on the big boys - saw a couple with surfers on them for scale, too. Now if the wind would just calm down it would get good soo fast. Hey needhelp, just remember, you get it or it gets you. Anything else and you're a buoy boy. It's why women who charge OB are rare (there are a few) - they just don't have that agro asshole eat me beat me make me ride bad waves 'tude. The cool thing about the beach is you can take it out on the waves, instead of other surfers like every other break. Hasta.

Doc is a good man,...hope i'm still surfing at his age just as well,... sure everyone has an occassional 'bad hair day'. I've also witnessed
the Doc ripping big OB, without further ado,...
Earlier this year this unreported incident occurred with a young african american man attempting to committ sucide leapt from the Golden Gate Bridge, upon impact the guy was still alive but battered and semi-concious,... Doc was first on the scene, while ironically surfing, before the Coast Guard arrived, administrating first aid,...You want respect you have to give
respect, the Doc has all my respect... peace out folks...

offshores flowing...

The truth is that crusty surfers like Doc are yelling for one reason only - so that people give them more space. It's an adolescent form of anti-social behavior. I have no respect for that.

There is a place for etiquette enforcement, but it is not appropriate to scream your head off at someone who paddles for the same wave and then gives it to you.

Winds are 20 knots onshore at the buoy.

No respect for the crusty old doc on the red board. The people I respect don't need to berate anyone or act like shitheads to get waves.

They also don't capitulate to bullying tactics in order to be let in to a clique.

No wind, maybe a puff of sideshore, but....

It looks like a frikin gale blew through here?

Back from Lindy: it's tiny. How can it be tiny? But it is. Look elsewhere.

sun in the outer richmond though, imagine that..

I always look elsewhere than lindy.

Pacifica is sunny and semi-warm. It's officially fall.

Offshore Wind?

Pernicious rumour according to B-stah but i was watching the weather on KTVU and Bill Martin(who i believe surfs around here) did clearly say the "O" word to describe friday and saturdays POSSIBLE weather setup. So now that everything is as clear as mud you can return to your regular programing.

officially fall? yeah, i'd say so. end result of my session last night:

thankfully it started out with a couple nice waves.

Please visit some helpful info in the field of internet poker internet poker http://internet-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ party poker party poker http://poker-party.fidelityfunding.net/ poker tournament poker tournament http://poker-tournament.fidelityfunding.net/ poker rooms poker rooms http://poker-rooms.fidelityfunding.net/ texas hold em poker texas hold em poker http://texas-hold-em-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ no limit texas hold em no limit texas hold em http://no-limit-texas-hold-em.fidelityfunding.net/ holdem holdem http://holdem.fidelityfunding.net/ play poker play poker http://play-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ absolute poker absolute poker http://absolute-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ holdem poker holdem poker http://holdem-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ poker game poker game http://poker-game.fidelityfunding.net/ three card poker three card poker http://three-card-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ pai gow poker pai gow poker http://pai-gow-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ online poker rooms online poker rooms http://online-poker-rooms.fidelityfunding.net/ paradise poker paradise poker http://paradise-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ online poker games online poker games http://online-poker-games.fidelityfunding.net/ texas poker texas poker http://texas-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ celebrity poker celebrity poker http://celebrity-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ learn to play poker learn to play poker http://learn-to-play-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ online video poker online video poker http://online-video-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ hold em poker hold em poker http://hold-em-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ online poker game online poker game http://online-poker-game.fidelityfunding.net/ on line poker on line poker http://on-line-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ casino poker casino poker http://casino-poker.fidelityfunding.net/ texas hold em online texas hold em online http://texas-hold-em-online.fidelityfunding.net/ free texas hold em free texas hold em http://free-texas-hold-em.fidelityfunding.net/ free online texas hold em free online texas hold em http://free-online-texas-hold-em.fidelityfunding.net/ free texas hold em poker games free texas hold em poker games http://free-texas-hold-em-poker-games.fidelityfunding.net/ free texas hold em online play free texas hold em online play http://free-texas-hold-em-online-play.fidelityfunding.net/ hold em hold em http://hold-em.fidelityfunding.net/ texas hold em poker game texas hold em poker game http://texas-hold-em-poker-game.fidelityfunding.net/ texas holdem online texas holdem online http://texas-holdem-online.fidelityfunding.net/ free online texas holdem free online texas holdem http://free-online-texas-holdem.fidelityfunding.net/ texas holdem poker game texas holdem poker game http://texas-holdem-poker-game.fidelityfunding.net/ play texas holdem play texas holdem http://play-texas-holdem.fidelityfunding.net/ ... Thanks!!!

In your free time, check some relevant pages dedicated to credit cards credit cards http://www.easy-application-credit-cards.com/ debt consolidation debt consolidation http://www.e-debt-consolidation-loans.com/ student credit cards student credit cards http://www.alumnicards.com/ mortgage loans mortgage loans http://www.mortgagequestaz.com/ bad credit loans bad credit loans http://www.all-calmortgage.com/ low interest credit cards low interest credit cards http://www.lowinterestratecreditcards.net/ credit card credit card http://www.credit-cards-credit-cards-credit-cards.net/ capital one credit card capital one credit card http://www.firstchoicebanksandpremiercredit.com/ payday loan payday loan http://www.fast-cash-quick-money-easy-loan.com/ credit repair credit repair http://www.repair-restore-bad-credit-report-identity-theft.com/ credit report credit report http://www.creditsharpie.com/ credit cards credit cards http://www.internet-merchant-account-pro.com/ discover credit card discover credit card http://www.acceptcreditcardsrealtime.com/ chase credit card chase credit card http://www.exclaim4creditcardprocessingmerchantaccount.com/ credit cards credit cards http://www.acceptcreditcardsonlineinternetmerchantaccountservices.com/ credit repair credit repair http://www.repaircreditonline.net/ debt consolidation debt consolidation http://www.consolidate-debt-usa.net/ debt consolidation debt consolidation http://www.smart-debt-consolidation-and-credit-services.com/ debt management debt management http://www.1st-advantage-credit-repair.com/ mortgage mortgage http://www.mortgagemarketinginc.com/ mortgage loans mortgage loans http://www.low-low-rates.com/ real estate mortgage loans real estate mortgage loans http://www.123-home-improvement-equity-loans.com/ home equity loans home equity loans http://www.home-equity-loans-mortgage-refinancing.com/ credit card applications credit card applications http://www.goapplyonline.com/ ... Thanks!!!