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Period down, wave-height up.

Misty morning, clouds in the sky
Without warning, the wizard walks by
Casting his shadow, weaving his spell
Funny clothes, tinkling bell
Never talking
Just keeps walking
Spreading his magic
Evil power disappears
Demons worry when the wizard is near
He turns tears into joy
Everyone's happy when the wizard walks by
Never talking
Just keeps walking
Spreading his magic
Sun is shining, clouds have gone by
All the people give a happy sigh
He has passed by, giving his sign
Left all the people feeling so fine
Never talking
Just keeps walking
Spreading his magic

A little Black Sabbath to start the day.

“The Wizard” is the song that accompanies Gavin Beschen’s part in “Football Schmootball,” one of the greatest video segments ever made. Tons of slow-mo of Gavin’s lanky, fluid, radical surfing. Mostly footage of the San Clemente “wizard” at Backdoor, Pipeline and Sunset. Shot on grainy, trippy, high-quality 16mm film. Anyway.. to the surf...

It’s large and wild out there. Lerm and I did the deed and succeeded mostly in getting tumbled and jostled around a good deal. Largish, ugly, messy, turbulent shorter-period groundswell/longer-period windswell (9ft 9seconds) marched toward shore from somewhere in the north pacific. It’s a bummer that the conditions were really the exact opposite of the prevailing weather at the beach. On land it’s calm, warm, sunny and pleasant.. In the water it’s rough, bruising, tumbling and out-of-control. I guess the winds in the outer waters are still blowin’ a gale. If those outer winds subside the surf-situation could get really good, really fast. The potential for serious sweetness is there and it might actually be happening as we speak at certain wind-protected spots up and down the coast. Those in the know are in the know. But.. not really being in the know I ended up sacrificing my body to the mercy of the mighty OB and she chewed me up, sucked on my head for a while, then spit my scrawny ass back onto the beach. Geez.. I feel a bit like I’ve been taken advantage of by that bruiser of a woman. We got sucked about two blocks south while paddling out (30 duckdives) and then sucked 4 blocks north while chilling on the outside looking for waves. I took around 5 wipe-out air drops over the falls as waves that looked like they might peel ended up jacking-up and pile-driving down into the shallow sandbars.. It was like, "here kitty kitty kitty.. come paddle into me.. i'm a niiice wave.. then fucking "SLAM! take that beeatch!" Lerm locked into a few nice lefts.. Good on ya lerm! I did grab two warbly, junkified rights and one speedy, hold-on-to-your-pants left. Soo.. it was fun. Also just fun to be out there dodging bombs, trying to hunt sections and feeling the occasional head-high-plus powerhouse mini-bomb pass underneath and then erupt on the inside. Mostly close-outs and random unsurfables out there this morning.. But also some amazing, glory-sections and barrels and just about everything. The needles in the haystack are out there.. ya just have to dig em’ out. Supposedly a few people were shredding up at VFers.. soo??

Keep an eye out on the winds at the SF and California buoys.. if they start to mellow.. maybe the beach will follow suit in a few hours?? Felt like winter this morning.. ‘cept you could tell the swell wasn’t real thick-like.. just out-of-control, semi-serious windswell action.. Beautiful day though.. just spectacular.

this is a great photo.. but.. i heard that this woman is playing at some George Bush rally.. soo.. beware of the seemingly stoked-out surfer chick.. can't judge a book...

sean brady shots

from mcshots.com


I watched you guys from the dunes (mahkrik) this morning - good description of your exploits. I'm fairly certain it was you. Looked like a good workout!

Posted by: DAK at August 27, 2004 10:08 AM

Black Sabbath? I remember diggin that music when I was in Junior High! OK to bring that stuff back but please, please, please let Disco rest in peace. Like Keith Richards said, that was a dark time in music history.

E, I sorta' got the time wrong on the party. . . it's starting mid-afternoon if you can slip away from the day job, come before the beer gets sucked up.

Posted by: Bruce at August 27, 2004 10:08 AM

Friend #1 and I made the paddle south at the Beach.

I got out quite easily, all things considered.

Friend #1 had to battle a bit though.

We both caught a few waves, but it was more of a maintenance sesession than anything else.

Posted by: Mr Doof at August 27, 2004 10:14 AM

IT'S FRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIDAY!!

daize shayne is hot, in that skinny mousy kind of way.

was the water still warm this morn'? i have a hankerin to trunk it this weekend...which of course would only last like 15 minutes, but whatever.

Posted by: j at August 27, 2004 10:15 AM

Gosh the waves here are hard to surf! I've held off on posting my pics until the waves got a tad better here, I feel like a dick saying how killer the waves have been for me all summer I got back last week from my summer long trip, I heard I did'nt miss anything. Posted a page of pics check em out. here are a few...
The fat guy on pic three is me...

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 10:23 AM

slid some slushers.

dawnies are good for the day's outlook.

i like pic #3 although the dude should a been deeper, that's a rippable wave and an easy entry.

Posted by: tomstah at August 27, 2004 10:26 AM

e, you're right...rough...

"Daize will be appearing live on the nationally syndicated political talk show Hugh Hewitt this Tuesday to talk about performing at the George W. Bush rally in Phoenix this Wednesday...

Daize will also be appearing August 31st at the Republican National Convention with California Governer Arnold Schwarzenegger."

Posted by: paul b at August 27, 2004 10:28 AM

mexi...looks like the tropical heat and daily surfs slimmed you down.

did you score my reefs near su casa?

tell me a story about the one in the bay (the longer one)

Posted by: tomstah at August 27, 2004 10:28 AM

Daize doesn't like guys who lie about their military "exploits"

Posted by: Military Man at August 27, 2004 10:30 AM

I really don't mean to violate any rules by posting this, but I noticed the past few threads that people play guitar and bass. I'm selling a bass starter kit on craigslist (live in east bay).

http://www.craigslist.org/eby/msg/40529845.html

If this violates any rules, I sincerely apologize.

Posted by: Bass at August 27, 2004 10:36 AM

that's cool with me "bass".

Posted by: e at August 27, 2004 10:43 AM

Last year I was a buyer at the surf swap. This year im a seller.

I will be putting the following boards up for grabs:

7-0 SF pin - $250
7-0 Sollife pin -$220
6-10 PB rounded pin - $200 (will trade for a 6-6 in equal condition)

Also, I have a buddy selling a couple boards in the 6-2 to 6-6 range for 40-60$. Feel free to stop by my "table" and we can shoot the shit over a brew.

Email me if you want more info on the boards. I can give you the dimensions when I get home tonight.

Posted by: traut at August 27, 2004 10:45 AM

wow you scored mexi, welcome back you got some good timing..j bay looks peeeeeerfect!

that picture of that girl surfing could be the sexiest shot of a girl surfing ive ever seen..nothing wrong with a little political differences with your girl.

gotta love chilling on the wall with your shirt off at 9am with a coffee and a bat watching people getting swirled around. saw one wave barrel and spit though..

Posted by: bagel at August 27, 2004 10:45 AM

rule #1: there are no rules!!!
rule #2: no outside food

Posted by: bbr at August 27, 2004 10:46 AM

Your description of OB is exactly like the first place I tried out here in Monterey this morning---a west-facing beach break. Big and breaking every which where, I spend 90 minutes duck-diving (badly) and caught essentially nothing but nose-water (claim!). Then I thought, wait, why am I all alone here, where is that guy who was suiting up near me? I got out, marched a small distance past a little point, and VOILA! There were about eight surfers huddled at this one peak grabbing great, long, clean head-high rides (and ripping them up). I paddled out and watched for a while, tired and cold (the water seems colder here). The waves were looming up, looking like close-outs, but they'd consistently break near a certain spot, and usually peel right for a long way. The locals huddled at the peak, and I was feeling reluctant to do battle with them, figuring I'd end up dropping in and wiping out and killing people and stuff. But here comes a wave and---no one is going for it. So I paddle in, and prepare for a beating. But it was surprisingly user-friendly---steep enough to catch on the shortboard but not really steep, more of a large, speedy roller, I guess--pretty different from what I'm used to around SF. I didn't do anything with it except try to stay near the breaking part, dodge the giant kelp and enjoy a looooooong, speedy ride to the beach. The most fun one-ride session ever.

Posted by: Klooless at August 27, 2004 10:47 AM

Refression session...light wind...smooth faces...touch shorepound...circular rip...swear I saw my first 10' face of the season...Advil anyone?

Posted by: kdalle at August 27, 2004 10:49 AM

I'm doing a balancing act between trying to surf, going to work, and preparing for my big move to the beach next weekend. This am I was up at 5am with anticipation of heading out for a dp. I looked at the bouy - size looked good but wind seemed a bit on it. Then I looked at the scripps tide chart. Big tide swing and incoming on top of that. In my mind (it was still dark out), I saw lots of turbulence in the water and dumping nasty kinds of waves. I chose to pack boxes this am before going to work in hopes of getting a Sat dp with better conditions. I really want to try out my 7'6 Rusty semi. Haven't even waxed it yet.

Posted by: Dennis at August 27, 2004 10:51 AM

Slimmed down, hell thats Photoshop. last roll of film on the last day in the Maldives. Costa, inside the bay was fun one day and crazy crowded the second time I went, did,'t go back.

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 11:00 AM

great pics mexi! looks like an amazing trip! Namibia looks the most interesting to me.. i like this one

Posted by: e at August 27, 2004 11:00 AM

great pics mexi! looks like an amazing trip! Namibia looks the most interesting to me.. i like this one

Posted by: e at August 27, 2004 11:02 AM

Apparently, Italy can go off. The below photos were shot on the west coast, except for the first one, on the north Adriatic coast. Sardinia and Sicily can get good as well.


Posted by: cadaver at August 27, 2004 11:04 AM

crazy beautiful kinda-knar session last night. saw a few sets definetly well overhead. Pretty insane paddle though...

whats the details for the surf swap? when/where?

Posted by: luke at August 27, 2004 11:05 AM

Posted by: at August 27, 2004 11:05 AM

sorry, that last pic again

Posted by: cadaver at August 27, 2004 11:07 AM

Thanks E, Namibia is a surreal place. I wrote a story about the Skeleton Coast. I'm hopen the Surfers Path or someone buys it, I surfed a lonlely world class left point, no surfers for 100's maybe 1000's of miles, unreal, magical, I'm holding off posting pics.

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 11:18 AM

Blakestah- I know one thing (re: yesterday's post) that was definately better during the drought of late 80's- early 90's, backyard pools. Then the fire in the East Bay. '87- '92 was a banner time for pool skating and I suffer still today from the beatings I gave myself. The drought was good for some.

Surfed the same Kinda Nar last night and it was beautiful- too warm for my wetsuit, amazing sunset and moon rise, some ridable waves but mostly junky. Fun to be in the water with the cruising seal and the balding wetsuit free guy out for a sunset swim. I think he had a better idea than my out for a surf. Just back from a bike ride to the assessor's office at City Hall and it is glorious out. Happy people getting hitched under the dome. If the weather were only always like this here....

Posted by: goodmorning at August 27, 2004 11:20 AM

Klooless is living the dream. My first time out at four-mile was the same. I still recall the grins on the guys faces when I paddled back out for another. Six of us exchanged waves in turn. Havent had a session like that since. Points are fun when mamma has taught thier kids right.

Posted by: pez at August 27, 2004 11:22 AM

on the daize shayne tip, i gotta disagree with bagel. divesity in pov is great, empty-headed religious fundamentalism is not so hot. i don't thing she and i would make great pals.
daize quotes:
"Environment is really important, but I'm looking at this thing as a whole. We'll always be able to find clean water somewhere, but our country is on the brink of destruction. I just pray that whatever happens is what God wants."
"I'm not even qualified enough to say who's a better president. I'm voting for Bush because he prays, he believes in traditional marriage, and he loves God, and I love God too."
on the wave tip: i gotta claim this really fun head high right that walled-up and i pumped like a mad woman down the line, making a wave that i would normally pull out of and even got in a top turn at the end. surfing's fun

Posted by: steamwand at August 27, 2004 11:26 AM

I'm voting for Bush because he doesn't care about the environment either.

Posted by: Daize at August 27, 2004 11:30 AM

lot's of "if you support anyone other than my candidate you are an idiot" going around here on this board.


is that how it is?

Posted by: at August 27, 2004 11:30 AM

Hey military guy, Daize shouldn't like Bush then, because he's fucking lying puss. Pardon my French.

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 11:33 AM

Surf Swap info:

http://www.aquasurfshop.com/events/events.html

Posted by: Traut at August 27, 2004 11:36 AM

Those Daize comments are scary. Anybody with any level of influence who says something like: "I'm not even qualified enough to say who's a better president. I'm voting for Bush because he prays" I could never get down with. Insight into how a huge portion of the country is thinking.

Supposed to be nice all weekend. Sick!

Posted by: tucker at August 27, 2004 11:36 AM

i USED to be in love with daize....now i feel ill.
too bad she's a nut job. she surfs so well...

"i do not pray that god is on our side;
i pray that WE are on god's side."

-abraham lincoln

someone should remind the republican
crazies of this quote.

surfed OB this morn and got slammed too.
it is a jungle out there. for day 2 the morning sickness
wore off at 8.30/ 9ish and got really nice.
saw a seal catch the wave of the day. BIG ol set
wave came and this guy takes a huge breath and
rears up out of the water then powers into the
face and as the whole wall goes by, just before
i ducked under i see the seal motoring right ahead
of the foam ball IN the face of the wave. too cool.

and from nyc...."A block away from the RNC in MSG on 34th St.  It’s nuts over there already.  Bumped into a wall of cops yesterday."


 

Posted by: korewin at August 27, 2004 11:37 AM

I was only half kidding about the drought years. Everyone I've talked to who was surfing here then has incredibly fond memories.

Anyway, the morning is for sickness, the nooner is for high tide, the arvo is for surf.

Posted by: blakestah at August 27, 2004 11:40 AM

hmm steamwand i see your point..didnt see the quotes..that is too many 'Gods' for me..shes clipped..but those daisy dukes..

Posted by: bagel at August 27, 2004 11:42 AM

I have a hard time understanding why anyone could for for Bush. Only the top .5% benefit from his financial misdealings, and he is a murderer who starts wars for money and oil, at the expense of young lives, very un-Jesus like. Loss of civil liberties, free speach, we are hated in the world. , etc etc .So, Idiot is a good word for someone who votes for Bush. I haven't heard a decent reason to vote for the guy.

Posted by: mexisurf at August 27, 2004 11:42 AM

like clockwork, the waves go and the political talk starts. my $.02 on the election (and most/all politics in general) is they're all liars, you just gotta take all the information available to you and decide who you think lies less (or who's lies you believe more) and make your choice accordingly.

oh, and make sure you fully remove the chad from the ballet.

Posted by: j at August 27, 2004 11:42 AM

nice one 'wand..

anonymous poster - I don't think many people here are adamant Kerry supporters.. Most of us just agree that Bush and his minions are frightening, moderately evil harbingers of doom who represent much of what is wrong with this country and what is wrong with humanity in general. They are blindly entrenched in the might of coporate capitalism and fossil fuel energy, they have no moral compunction about killing 10s of thousands of innocent civilians for no reason whatsoever, NO REASON!!!!! PEOPLE MURDERED! LIVES RUINED!! MOMS AND DADS AND LITTLE KIDS MURDERED!!! IN OUR NAMES!!! And GW hides behind his cabinet... never reading the newspaper, never investigating issues on his own. vacationing more than any other president ever, just not really engaging his feeble little mind on the tasks at hand. leaving it up to the cheney/rummy/wolfowits/perle neocon/hawkish/misguided/power-hungry/old-boy-network/corporate-greed/murderous/bullyish/shortsighted/assholes!

stop posting the anti-liberal/pro-bush comments unless you have some valid or persuasive opinion or fact to state!!!

Posted by: e at August 27, 2004 11:44 AM

itunes fans: KCRW has a live acoustic w/ PJ Harvey & band right now the best I've heard form her in years.

check KUSF to- under Public.

Posted by: goodmorning at August 27, 2004 11:48 AM

your good E, you should become a writer or something...

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 11:49 AM

yeah, maybe i just resent her 'cause she's got a six pack and i've got a 40 oz. that photo is beautiful. that is not a debatable issue.

Posted by: steamwand at August 27, 2004 11:49 AM

I got a keg

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 11:50 AM

speaking of pj harvey, i heard vincent gallo interviewed(sp) on howard stern yesterday..classic..

heres a painting a friend did..

Posted by: bagel at August 27, 2004 11:53 AM

son of a!

Posted by: bagel at August 27, 2004 11:53 AM

i got a party ball

Posted by: bagel at August 27, 2004 11:54 AM

did somebody say keg, six pack and 40 oz?

time for pics of bikini girls...hot days bring's 'em out early!

http://ww3.voyeurweb.com/main/Prf31a/Psa20040719-97947/20040719-97947-5.jpg

Posted by: tomstah at August 27, 2004 11:58 AM

when i left OB the beach honeys were showing up....

did anyone notice that OB SMELLED like l.a. this morning?

anyone for an afternoon session?

Posted by: korewin at August 27, 2004 12:02 PM

the PJ Harvey deal is available by Real Player on www.kcrw.com. It is great, I sort of wrote off the new lp based on hearing cuts on the radio. Guess I should check it out. Friends are joining her for the remainder of the tour and now I am jealous.

The new Bjork lp also rocks- all vocal. All incredible.

Posted by: goodmorning at August 27, 2004 12:08 PM

HOLY **** NICENESS CREW!! BVB'S BEST FRIEND'S WIFE JUST CALLED ME AND SAID SHE WANTED TO GET DOWN AND DIRTY, WHAT SHOULD I DO?!?!?!?


Posted by: j at August 27, 2004 12:08 PM

ob usually smells when the winds start switching around and it heats up; it's the smell of goodness. parfum de seal rocks...

Posted by: at August 27, 2004 12:10 PM

photos by george ward

Posted by: e at August 27, 2004 12:11 PM

George Ward surfs! A nice guy. He would never vote for Bush..

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 12:13 PM

Daize seems part of the masses who are asses...plenty on both sides. I agree with Bagel, though...sheesh

I vote for bush (small b).

With my spare tire (which doesn't actually help much), I may wake up my very BEING with a trunk sesh...

Posted by: Ace at August 27, 2004 12:13 PM

E -- you're right about the taste of winter this morning. Took a few on the head, paddled in place for like 15 mins. Until this week, I'd forgotten what waves looked like......

So I got home a bit before 9, made breakfast for the wife and kid and helped get them off out the house for their day. And then the house is empty and quiet, so I though "I'll just lie down on the sofa and watch five minutes of Sky Sports News before work."

Next thing I know, it's 11 and I am sooooo late............

Posted by: limevoodoo at August 27, 2004 12:21 PM

e - could not have said it better myself. Kerry may be just another rich white guy looking to be prez, but Bush is a dangerous IDIOT fronting for a bunch of SERIOUSLY SCARY white guys who want to roll back time to pre UN days and rule the world.
Re: Daize - is she still hooked up w/Joel Tudor? I went to school w/Joel's mom and dad in Kearny Mesa. I once heard Daize interveiwed in some longboard movie. She sounded disturbingly like Joel's mom did when we were kids - a typical San Diego suburban Jesus Freak. Don't get me wrong. I got NO PROBLEM with anyone's religious beliefs - except when they get BLINDED by "the light." Come on! Voting for a guy because he prays!? That's as bad as voting for a guy because he surfs!

Posted by: Jimmie at August 27, 2004 12:24 PM

right on jimmie..

sorry i missed you last night. i didn't get out of the jam until 10.. maybe sunday i can swing by?? on the way to bagel's opening..

hmmmm..

surf!!!! maybe after work a second sesh??

ohh.. to surf a peeling wave. someday... someday...

Posted by: e at August 27, 2004 12:34 PM

I think I saw you shooting last night at ram adnil Mexi, must be a bummer to go there and shoot after everywhere you have been in the last few months. You were taking pics of your buddies as you guys got out of the water. You'll probably see me staring blankly at you in the background of a few of those. I enjoyed myself out there even if it was all over the place. Seemed there were a lot of women out practicing for the contest coming up. They were ripping. I sat back and just watched them for a bit, they have some serious grace.

Posted by: kookdom at August 27, 2004 12:36 PM

I have put my camera away for a bit, it wasn't me at Pathetica... I surfed syllek crap yesterday. The womens contest is coming, I heard its fun and there a free massages on the beach!

Posted by: mexisurf at August 27, 2004 12:44 PM

welcome back, mexi!! shiet...way to live the dream this summer! i can't wait to check the pics and, hopefully, read the tales (good luck gettin' 'em published).

couldn't dp this a.m. as i had to get into work early. did do the drive by, however, and watched two guys make the paddle (Mr. Doof and Friend #1???). despite the fact that the effort didn't really look worth the slim rewards on the outside, i was strangely itchin' just for the paddle. looked sorta like winter and smelled like fall! awwww...yeah!

is it the weekend yet?

Posted by: ck at August 27, 2004 12:48 PM

Whoa, how'd this get here....

Posted by: TOMSPOSTBYKAISER at August 27, 2004 12:55 PM

(received via email from a friend)

Surfed this AM... Horrible! Montara and the Beach were blown out and the Jetty was too small, but I was jonesing to get in the water so I paddled out at the only glassy spot I could find... Lindy. I am not going to make that mistake again!

Now I know why I have only surfed there twice in the last two years. Sets were 1 - 2' overhead and the entire beach was closing out. It looked somewhat lined up from the beach, but that is because the peaks start to roll in, then they back off, the shoulders stand up and the whole crappy wave breaks at once. The only guys who could get a decent ride were the longboarders who would stand up way early and ride 20 feet across the face before the entire wave collapsed at once. To top it off, the water was NASTY! I thought the harbor water in Princeton was bad. It smelled so bad that I had to drive home to shower before going in to work. Usually I can just rinse off, but this time I needed to be disinfected. No offense to our friendly Pacifica residents the_________, but Linda Mar is disgusting and the waves suck, especially when there is any swell in the water.

Oh, and to top it off, on my way back in to work at around 11:00 AM, Montara was totally cleaning up, and my guess is that OB was getting fun as well.

At least it was sunny and warm...

So I can't surf this evening because I will not get out of the office until after 8:00 PM (making up for not getting in until 11:15), but am definitely interested in surfing tomorrow.

Posted by: doesn't hold back at August 27, 2004 12:56 PM

Yeah, I can do that too! Read my book!

Posted by: Kelly Slater at August 27, 2004 12:57 PM

Um, this is my secret spot! I will never tell you the name no matter how much you pay me....

Posted by: Kaiser at August 27, 2004 12:59 PM

that back-bend girl is cute!

Posted by: stretch at August 27, 2004 01:05 PM

e - no worries, the distortion pedal is yours whenever ya want it.
I plan to get in the water after work. I'm seriously considering wearing the shortlegged wetsuit today. Unless it cleans up considerably here in The City, I'll probably end up down at Pedro. I'm not up for an Ocean Beach thrashing today unless it's "worth it."

Posted by: Jimmie at August 27, 2004 01:05 PM


Posted by: curren fan at August 27, 2004 01:16 PM

Curren's got a lot of stickers on his board these days.....and that black stripe thing, that's marketing too?

Did Curren sell out?

Posted by: at August 27, 2004 01:21 PM

CK, good on ya, Thanks for the Namibia info...See ya in da water

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 01:30 PM

your mama sold out

Posted by: I at August 27, 2004 01:41 PM

nah, i think the black stripe is just his own thing.

Posted by: luke at August 27, 2004 01:43 PM

Knockin' out sucka MC's....


http://www.the-bikini.com/images/home/sheerhome2.jpg

Posted by: tomstah at August 27, 2004 01:44 PM

He did the black rails back in the 80's

Posted by: mexi at August 27, 2004 01:44 PM

The summer waves were so much better 15 years ago? Shocker. E should rename this the "nostalgia board" so all you old folks can reminisce how the wind was so much better under the Eisenhower administration and discuss the best place to buy adult diapers. I may be a kook, but I'm a kook with bladder control. Most of the time.

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 27, 2004 02:15 PM

Couldnt bring myself to make the Pathetica paddle

Decided empty jetty was the call.

Sat outside for 20 mins. waiting for a set

Then upon the horizon appear a succulent wall

Hesitate for a moment i did not you can bet

My positioning was perfect, my timing flawless

The drop i made into that left was easy,

until i caught my rail, got pitched and face planted into the sand and emerged smiling.

Pure poetry in motion.


Fall is here, Go surfing

Posted by: Sutro D at August 27, 2004 02:25 PM

ha. currens the best

Posted by: bagel at August 27, 2004 02:29 PM

Tom, why didn't you go with this one?

http://www.the-bikini.com/galleries-slingshot/bigimages/image036.jpg

Anyone heading to Jack/G Love tonight?

Posted by: Kaiser at August 27, 2004 02:33 PM

it was between that one and this one...

http://www.the-bikini.com/galleries-minimicro/bigimages/image016.jpg

Posted by: tomstah at August 27, 2004 02:43 PM

that can't be comfortable!

Posted by: jdz at August 27, 2004 02:48 PM

Fair enough!

You might also spend some time over here:
http://images.wickedweasel.com/skins/white/contributors/galleries/2004-2/round4/iryna/7.jpg

Posted by: Kaiser at August 27, 2004 02:50 PM

frankly the leather belt kinda scares me....

...but this is a unisex web site and the rules are all "models must appear clothed"

my site is an actual e commerce site. a legit business whereas your site is in the gray area of porn/erotica/fetish.

Based on that the argument could be made for your disqualification and force you to revert to the pure and innocent reef and hooter girl galleries.

Posted by: tomstah at August 27, 2004 02:58 PM

Curren still rules.

Once i save up $1000 im getting a board like his to wipe out on.

post more curren pics

Posted by: Sutro D at August 27, 2004 02:58 PM

best curren photo ever

funk yeah!

Posted by: curren fan at August 27, 2004 03:03 PM

Turns out Eisenhower administration isn't far enough back to make a joke, as San Francisco still has guys in the water that were surfing back then. He talks about how it was nothing but dunes between 34th and the ocean. Surfing in a sweater is hard-core.

"Fred progressed to board surfing--back when boards weighed 50 to 100 pounds, and surfers wore wool shirts to try to keep warm. He spent hours in the waters off San Francisco, Santa Cruz, and Southern California."

http://www.posthoc.com/surfing2_interview.htm

http://www.outsidelands.org/vandyke.html

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 27, 2004 03:04 PM

curren.. sell-out or no?

Posted by: guh? at August 27, 2004 03:13 PM

Wise says tons out totally rideable 4-6ft....i'm the fuck out of here...


job AND double sessions.

I aint no fucking sell out...

Posted by: tomstah at August 27, 2004 03:23 PM

it looks soooo hollow on the cams right now...

Posted by: bbr at August 27, 2004 03:28 PM

Before I die what do i want to see?

Tom Curren surf Flawless 8-10ft Jeffreys Bay.

Smoothest bottom turn ever created.

A gaggle of supermodels showing up with snacks and frosty cold beverages would be nice too.

Fall is yummy.

Posted by: barney at August 27, 2004 03:28 PM

way to sell out OB tomstah
Thanks for claiming conditions to the internet masses

Posted by: at August 27, 2004 03:29 PM

who are sitting at there desks and cant go surfing!

Posted by: bagel at August 27, 2004 03:34 PM

3 streaming cams and 2 telephone reports (one that updates 3x a day) plus the blakestah report and all the earlier reports today and last 3 days.

And Tomstah is the exploiter of OB?

Next time I see him I'm going to give him a piece of my mind.

Thanks anonymous for pointing this out to me.

Posted by: at August 27, 2004 03:41 PM

tomstah and bbr are kooks
please don't declare rideable conditions to the world

Posted by: bitter local at August 27, 2004 03:42 PM

i wonder if people who are hardcore into flying kites have cams that they watch and just PRAY for super strong winds at the beach? like right now, on a parallel universe, there is a kite flying blog going on and everyone is bitching that there's no wind and reminiscing about the summer of '04 when the winds blew everyday? hmm....

Posted by: j at August 27, 2004 03:45 PM

Fred VanDyke is a family acquaintance (school teachers stick together) and he is a great guy. Not sure about his moving to NZ concept but I can see moving to another location; one with warmer water.

Outta here

Posted by: goodmorning at August 27, 2004 03:46 PM

"damn, september again, there's not going to be any good wind for awhile...man, remember back in june when there was hella wicked 45 mph winds everyday? that was AWESOME!"

Posted by: j at August 27, 2004 03:47 PM

J, nice one!

Posted by: Kaiser at August 27, 2004 03:50 PM

www.iwindsurf.com is the antichrist

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 27, 2004 03:55 PM

Fuck the locals

Posted by: bitter trannie at August 27, 2004 03:56 PM

I moving to the sunny side of the bay soon (O-town) and I've been investigating this odd type of surfing they do with "kites" instead of "waves." While Co-ops has a few real-time anemometors around the bay, apparently they also like to use cams to watch for things like flags and trees blowing. Apparently they also have this wierd habit of stowing their gear "inside" of their cars instead of on top. Krazy kiters!

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at August 27, 2004 04:11 PM

very eloquent, bt.
Niceness, hope y'all score and don't tell.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 27, 2004 04:12 PM

Respect the Locals
Don't kiss and tell
are you really that insecure?
Bitter trannies belong in the Castro not at OB

Posted by: BL at August 27, 2004 04:16 PM

Fuck the locals and shit on their driver seat.

Posted by: bitter trannie at August 27, 2004 04:18 PM

I like groovy boards.

Posted by: dano at August 27, 2004 04:34 PM

Roman is working nicely, and no takers. Where the hell is everyone?

Posted by: Hickory at August 27, 2004 04:52 PM

BTW, Fred Van Dyke doesn't surf anymore. Talked to him recently (married to my neighbors daughter). Says his balance and stamina just won't allow it but he's swimming and hoping to get back in the water again someday.

Now some of us certainly go back to L.B.J.

Posted by: kdalle at August 27, 2004 05:56 PM

girlfriend in a car accident and i spent the morning in the emergency room (she's ok minus missing skin and a frankenstein stich-up). can't get to the water this evening cuz i'm stuck at work from missing the entire morning. bleh.

but tomorrow, tomorrow, is only a dayyyy awayyyyyyyyy...

Posted by: caveman at August 27, 2004 06:53 PM

never heard of Cliff Kamaka before (in the Fredd Van Dyke stories). I love the way in the old "surfing legend" stories there's always some guy who was there before the legend. Wonder who gave Cliff the idea of swimming out to surf Noreiga in the winter, no wetsuit, nobody around for miles...? bet there was somebody...

Posted by: Joe at August 27, 2004 07:12 PM

Posted by: reminder at August 27, 2004 07:27 PM

I told you there would be surf.

Posted by: Gavin at August 27, 2004 09:39 PM

Got surf today! Glassy and fun! Who knew?

Posted by: Ella at August 27, 2004 09:41 PM

WOW, water hit 60 yesterday. Jack, G-Love, and Donovan played an awesome show tonight! I know a lot of you are anti-jack johnson/donovan, but you know what? I don't care because it was sick! Jack Johnson also showed a piece of his new film, "A Broken Down Melody." Looks solid! nice to see films that are different from the usual punk-rock slash and bash cut and paste surf film. Anyway, saw some guy rockin a shirt with a huge neptune logo on it. Good times. A lot of subtle anti-bush comments were made along with similar songs sung.

Posted by: Ian at August 28, 2004 02:34 AM

we alll find peace at some time.inside the quivering pulses of a timeless tuboso ,or right there in front of you ,when a simple look or feel is complete.are you left or are you right?i think we all know the answer to this quest .so rejoyce cause time has come again where tic meets toc, and the time the ocean will talk to us all about our own inner politics .are you really liberal or maybe you are kind of conservitave .should i paddle out ?or should i watch ? where is your place?
remember,its not what your wave can do for you,its what you can do for your wave!!!!!!
so go vote!but more importantly go further. cause we all know its not about the leader its about the self.

Posted by: luigi at August 28, 2004 04:54 AM

*knock knock*
hello?
oh, hi there head, how are you doing?

head is throbbing this AM, good times. the older i get, the less i recover.

ian - i saw the show, was pretty fun. i was having a lot of anti-bush thoughts myself, what with all those college girls runnin' around...

Posted by: j at August 28, 2004 09:29 AM

Go see a PT. Not a chiropractor, a PT. Some Chiro's can help and the guy I went to help my lower back out before a trip to Mexico.

But, I went to my buddy out on 43rd or so and he hooked me up to some electrodes. Stretched, cracked, stimulated, iced, showed me how to prevent and maintain. I think that was the key. Screw all the cracking and adjustment crap, learn to take care of it. Mine only gets sore now from overuse.

Give me an email if you need more info: lanceEA at yahoo dot commie

Posted by: Kaiser at August 28, 2004 09:37 AM

All you nit wits and anon poster poses can go striaght to Pacicaca. Yes, this is yet another negative tirade. E: DELETE ME.

I surfed all day yesterday and I can honestly say that generallly most so called "surfer's " out there popped up for a second - maybe got one ride and then they're gone - lame.
As for this webiste and the BVB - who the **$# cares about this bullshit anyway - #^@ off . com
Bagel, J, GO HOME

Posted by: at August 28, 2004 10:45 AM

Niceness vanished from DNS servers! It's back at my workplace computer (which I'm useing remotely), but not at home.

Monterey was fun Friday and Saturday. Far from being vibey, a local generously helped me to find the right breaks to try both days, where no one seemed put out to see a stranger. And a similar-sounding place (to "Monterey") closer to home was going off yesterday mid-morning---very big, hollow sets; I hope it was some of you all that I saw scoring great (occasionally tubing?) rides. The buoys were not that big, so I tend to doubt my size estimates, but the biggest sets sure looked BIG from the lineup and from the beach. I got some fun drops but somehow didn't catch long rides.

Off to take my kid bodyboarding!

Posted by: Klooless at August 30, 2004 01:10 PM

Yeah, DNS for E's is still propagating... Sorry 'bout the outage. The house I live in was recently sold and when the new owner had his DSL and VoIP installed on Saturday, it farked the old DSL line that E's was hosted on. We had to do a quick switch over to the new line.

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