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niceness.org just moved servers.. thanks to MWSF for all his hard-work and willingness to let all our inane drivel slow down his connection! If you see MWSF, buy that cat a beer or three!
ok.. the surf was really fun this morning. Peaky and weird but glassy and small. Barrelling in shallow water. Find a peak. wait for your wave.. then take-off into the hollowness. There were some chunky/funky mini-pits out there during the lower tide. Rippers delight! I backed off a few i should have charged, but i also melded into some steep, quick, ledging niceties.. Carved my best cutty in months.. funk yeah!
This weekend saw some mildly fantastic surf at local beaches. Saturday started off large and wild.. out-of-control victory at sea stuff for the dawn-patrollers.. then by 9am the swell began to decrease and some fun-lovin' nugs presented themselves. By 2pm it was sunny and clean and head-high and really really good (for around here anyway). Peaks all up and down the beach with wave-riders hitting lips, lipping hits and generally slashing and/or gallavanting all over the scene.. Mad mad bikinis on the beach too!! Guh?? Can't complain. Loon had an insane clam-bake setup near Lincoln. Teched-out clam-baking pit.. fur real.
Sorry i missed the window on chowing down..
then Sunday the swell decreased a bit more.. still largish and a bit wild.. but relatively tame compared to friday and saturday. I didn't get out there until around noon.. but made my way with a friend who brought some beginners and another friend and a bunch of longboards and fins and fishes and all manner of vehicles. I started off having a solid session on the "brown turd" 6'6" shortboard.. had some crazy-ass stony rides and suicide drops and wipe-outs and 8 billion duckdives in the pleasurably warm water.. then i helped some of the illinois newbies try to catch insiders on the longboards.. Then my friend and i went out in the bowling, pitching, semi-serious windblown surf on the 10'+ logs.. HOLY SHIT!! how do you longboarders do that shit? I could barely turn on the beast. Paddling was wicked-fast.. but.. bottom-turning was an enigma to me and i repeatedly yard-saled on successive bottom turn attempts. Longboarding on short-board waves is farking TOUGH!! i think i also suffered because this board was kind-of a home-made 300lb. monster with 4inch box rails and not very much in the way of a tapered tail or rocker. It seriously looked (and acted) like a real log. gnarly! Also my friend brought his friend Lee who is a really cute wahine who ruled it on her longboard and caught many critical waves. She teaches surfing at Paskowitz surf camp down in San Diego and was a pleasure to watch. Go the Wahines!! There actually are cuties other than sharkbait, steamwand, welle, friendly and anastasia that surf OB!! i'm serious!! Go the cuties!
Rochelle
Can't help but smile at your longboard experience. That king of log is what we all learned on when we were scrawy 100 lb kids in the 60s. Plus...no leashes!
What is eye opening is riding a longer board for a while then going back to a small board. All of a sudden they turn amazingly easy. Try it.
Some nice size of the outside on Satuday. Ran across the doctors out there. First Black and then, to my amazement, Renneker. Third time in 25 years! Got to say, he is stoked but still a kook. Ah, aren't we all.
Posted by: kdalle at August 30, 2004 01:49 PMAhem...BLAKE and then Renneker.
I am such a kook.
Posted by: kdalle at August 30, 2004 01:51 PMKdalle,
I guess Doctor R showed up later after I rode in. I only live two streets away from him, and I have surfed with him about as many times as you.
On my 7'6" I found myself wishing that I had a vehicle which would transform into a LB once I got it outside. Perhaps you have such a vehicle?
It still made my session to see you paddling toward me as I took off on a longer ride. So often our roles are reversed.
Posted by: friend #1 at August 30, 2004 02:10 PMQuiet day here...
.....new board and wettie acquired this weekend so don't sit close.....cause you will get a face full.
Posted by: tomstah at August 30, 2004 02:18 PMFirst Lines....(Tropical Storm Gaston)
Wrightsville Beach North Carolina
81 degree water...
Posted by: tomstah at August 30, 2004 02:31 PMhttp://www.eastcoastsurf.com/e_repPhotos/083004-120508_1-52_01.jpg
yep, you could tell the homies were in on the outside. kdalle and friend #1, missed Renneker though. I surfed with him three times on the magical Thanksgiving week, but hardly other than that. kdalle on the 9'6" stewart. Friend #1 on the 7'6" (Eaton bonzer maybe?), me on the 6'6" RFS.
Of course, whet our appetites, we still have about 2 months before the outer bar stuff starts happening.
I think I got over any hesitation I had about the RFS and steep fast inner bar stuff. I'm finding myself places I only wished I could get before. I think it is the slightly earlier planing and slightly better acceleration on the drop letting me get down the line better. Or no, I dunno, but I know I like it...
Posted by: blakestah at August 30, 2004 02:33 PMgood thing i missed another weekend of surf. it's ok though. i've been contemplating quiting surfing and taking up TRUCK DRIVING.
nah.. bad idea.
good to hear some peeps got surf.
mexisurf has some good pics on his site... africa land of waves, sharks, and lions. rad.
Posted by: elias at August 30, 2004 02:34 PMtoday was unreal... very great stuff and no one out but a few people at 11am-1pm
Posted by: phil at August 30, 2004 03:00 PMfriday night and saturday around noon were flipping amazing...
too bad the red-tide(?)/warm-water ruined my sinuses and from Friday night until this morning i could barely breathe and had itchy eyes and a scratchy thoat. completely worth it though.
Posted by: bbr at August 30, 2004 03:09 PMbbr...some guy was calling us kook on this here site?
imagine that?
Posted by: tomstah at August 30, 2004 03:12 PMtom and bbr and kdalle.. don't worry.. "kook" is actually ancient Sumerian for "sculpted masculine god"
soo.. it's pretty sweet to be a kook.
Posted by: e at August 30, 2004 03:17 PMGot some great waves on DP Saturday. When I was getting in around 6:15, there were some guys pulling large fishing nets in. Some gill nets too. He made a good point that getting caught in one of these would have ruined someone's day. A boat capsized a few days ago (too close to the cliffs) and lost its tackle and these guys were salvaging it.
Anyway, got pounded heavily until the tide gained some height. Only a couple people out at this spot until around 9 am. Then it hit about 15 people and I went in. Huge set hit right at 8:30. Had to be over 8 ft. Anyone else see that one? Got some very fast rides although short period made the paddle a little annoying. Great time, stoked!
Posted by: Nate at August 30, 2004 03:20 PMe, what about dork?
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 30, 2004 03:23 PM"dork" actually derives from the medieval Pharsi "Dorki" which means, "One who knows without knowing."
also not bad..
Posted by: e at August 30, 2004 03:30 PMlike i said Kdalle.. i have no idea how you loggers whip those planks around so smooth. Skillz. Every die-hard potato-chip shredder should paddle out on a 10-foot log during good conditions at OB before he/she chastises the longboard crew.
Posted by: e at August 30, 2004 03:34 PMkook, goon, dork...
how about "dwid"? that was the choice word of my brother's posse, san diego, mid-70's. i love it.
Posted by: paul b at August 30, 2004 03:43 PMI think Kdalle will take exception to being called a 'logger'. Just as Doof does when he rides his 8 foot wood laminated surfteck. Doof's is a porked out shortboard, and Kdalle's is a porked out gun.
Posted by: friend #1 at August 30, 2004 03:45 PMwierd asynchronus random connection.eg: log expereince/word problem. 25 years ago today my dad came home with a 10' 50lbs. bing plank for my birthday. he got it as a joke really. but i had been shortboarding for 3 years with inconsistent results. so, i commited to the log for the next 2 months and it cleaned my act up fast. i was 16 when i got the Bing. To answer; how old was 3to5 when he started surfing? how old is he today?
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 30, 2004 03:48 PMmy calculator doesn't go that high.
hang it up....
Posted by: at August 30, 2004 03:51 PMyeah, sat was friggin great at ob. weather was amazing but changed around 3pm - a low misty fog rolled from the south. surf stayed pretty good all day. i'd previously never hung out late-night at ob, amazed to see the fires every 50 yards, must have been 20 or 30 of them just around vfw's -- is that normal, or just pre-burning man related? either way, lots of characters out there...
Posted by: loon at August 30, 2004 03:51 PMGnarly!
Posted by: at August 30, 2004 03:57 PMgnarly!
Posted by: at August 30, 2004 03:58 PMgnarlier...
http://www.uglypeople.com/uploaded/5302/ugly2.jpg
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Posted by: at August 30, 2004 04:04 PMsaturday was a dream....holy shite! so much fun.
OB has that hunger for more board to get in.
the 6'4" was not happening friday but saturday
the 6'8" was perfect. what a GREAT day. visions of
barrels dance through my head....
hey. i have a question for all you ave. livin' OB surf rats...
i have an old friend from the east coast that used to
live right at judah and la playa then moved back to
virginia....anyhow i am almost positive that i saw him
in the water on saturday at judah/ kirkham (damn current)
but waves kept us apart....anyone know>
stephen mann aka fred?
if you do, shoot me an email would like to re-connect.
peace and niceness to all ya'll....
Posted by: korewin at August 30, 2004 04:15 PMemail me> cscorwin at yahoo
sorry 'bout that.
Posted by: korewin at August 30, 2004 04:16 PMoh yeah
fark
Posted by: e at August 30, 2004 04:22 PMloon - anytime the weather is reasonable, there are tons of fires at OB at night. It has nothing to do with Burning Man.
Posted by: blakestah at August 30, 2004 04:28 PMok.. back to work for me!
... surf..
Posted by: e at August 30, 2004 04:32 PMwould you go?
Posted by: at August 30, 2004 04:36 PMno.
and i wouldn't go on that next monster either.
camped up by ventura and hit some spots there over the weekend. FUN! never surfed there before. mannn. but yeah, if you want to know if Ventura gets waves, um, it doesn't. just so no one gets pissed.
STOKED YOU SF HEADS GOT SOME SURF!!!!!
Posted by: Hb at August 30, 2004 04:39 PMtell you what...fun weekend definitely. But spoiled somewhat for me. I was wandering around ob sunday morning with my son and we encountered no less than 5 used syringes (capped at least) sticking out of the sand. one burned mattress. I mean come on...burning a mattress. that can't be good. and of course a smorgasbord of burned, broken, and unbroken bottles of beer liquor and who knows what else strewn across the beach. and of course, lots of smoldering wood. why don't people clean that shit up and pack that shit out? unforgivable. I think i saw the crew getting ready for slopfest as we were leaving...and I think I saw a very nice looking hickey board on the beach. the 6'6 i think????
Posted by: jdz at August 30, 2004 04:48 PMHola Niceness Heads
With all the longboard talk and my cousins intown i have to ask; Where can i find a good 9 or 10 foot longboard for a decent price? Id love to pay a decent price for a good board so lemme know. Surfed kellys and had some fun in the slop.
Posted by: Sutro D at August 30, 2004 06:33 PMFor a board, I'd check the local shops, and also craigslist.
Posted by: Klooless at August 30, 2004 06:52 PMMy kid and I DOMINATED the south Lindy break this afternoon. While he bodyboarded (or at least paddled around), I charged the two-foot set waves on a shortboard.
longboards are cool. i hit up the post work, haven't surfed in a week, sun poking through the clouds, floating in an enchanted grey world of misty green sea, lively, catching the small lines of windswell from a briefly swirling tropical depression on a longboard today... yeeaah suurf!
we got lots of storms and swell and waves and winds on the east coast tomorrow... when will the best conditions align? it should be interesting to see how our winds literally change with the swirl of passing Gaston remnants... I'll be there before and after work... hope it isn't only epic at noon!
ob sounds good, glad everyone got some fun ones.
Posted by: j.o.c at August 30, 2004 07:31 PMJDZ?
Quite your effing bitching.
#1 Ocean Beach is not and never will be Clean. If that conflicts with your wholesome family experience than move to VA Beach.
#2 OB is an Urban sand bar.
Pollution is what weeds out the transplants from the locals.
#3 Respect the conditions you "have a problem with"
You are a guest here until you become proactive about your grips. Dont whine about the less than ideal environment you find yourself residing in to do anything about it because your to busy dealing with "more important things".
So how is your new Honda Element treating you?
Posted by: old school at August 30, 2004 10:06 PMNot polluting the environment is it?
Hey what's mexisurf's site, I wanna see the pics? Nice about the low comments, people putting their energy elsewhere. Almost all positrons in the posts which is, niceness for a change.
Posted by: hee hee at August 30, 2004 10:26 PMFunny to hear all this "log" talk and realize that the big-uns we're talking about are barely more than toothpicks - an eight foot semi-gun, a 9'6", etc. "The Fly" and I dropped down to a couple of volan clad 9'8"s to tackle that sharky left that sometimes goes off up north on Saturday.
I can't say that I didn't have enough board to catch those hulking rollers but, would I have traded for a 10'6" or an 11'? Well, that's exactly what we took back there on Sunday.
Posted by: Spider Man at August 30, 2004 10:47 PMAfter 9 foot does a longboard really have any nuances? Not trying to be a smartass but i just dont know jack about logs.
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