E's Surf Report

weird, i have that same hallucination when I don't have my morning cup a joe :)

That last picture is located somewhere along the south side of this little fishing village in indo. I stayed there for 2 weeks a few summers ago. It's onl accessible by boat.

That B&W pic is Berkeley Marina going Ricky Richtero sometime in the '70s

lets take it back a notch or two today..

Tears for Fears: "Head over Heels," "Pharaoes," "Sowing the Seeds of Love," "Sketches of Pain."

Does anyone donate blood? I'm going today. They say every time you donate you save 3 peoples lives. Kinda neat.

The 1st and 2nd picture is over by Greg Noll's place. The B&W picture is over by some horrendus traffic jam. Everyone sees it going 1 mph. Surprised the spot behind it wasn't noticed long, long ago.

good guesses steama and Ian.. but.. not quite right.. hmmmm... steama.. you're correct that the photo was taken in the 70's.

sick shots today. pretty sure the "glassy" pic is a rarely breaking wave in the town i was born in. "north end of linda mar" is pretty obvious. the rest i have no clue.

e, stick to the dank green bud. Inhalants are nasty. Great off the cuff story tho.

Right on Ian!

Sowing the Seeds of Love, what a gay song. Part of live 105's alternative hip lineup. Why I now listen to KSOL, Pura Mexico now.

Lerm was on the money; small and not unmessy, at least 9-10. Not super messy, but at least where I was, not clean enough to make the small waves a whole lotta fun. I'd say frequently waist-high, though, with very little push and without a lot of "set" waves worth waiting for. SSW winds.

I think I saw one of the egg things on Monday taking over at south-ish OB. It was short, thick, and this light blue kind of aqua color, and it was really speedy and fun looking on the smallish surf. I'm kicking myself for not asking the guy what it was, since it looked a lot more fun than a funboard for small days. Maybe a "retro single-fin egg"?

last night there were a few irish kids in the water surfing who spoke with a thick irish brogue.

So i asked him "how long have you been here?"

"he said 10 weeks."

so i said "how long have you been surfing?"

he said "9 weeks."

Curren, Malloy, Fitgerald, Slater, Dorian, Tomstah and Irish Kid....

All rippers.....

alchi, sorry I don't listen to the radio, but good thing you know what's gay and what isn't!

Yeah, kind of weird how there are a lot of Irish rippers.

How about Shaun Briley?

isn't the bottom pic pimpy's? i can almost see the '12' on the rock...

Irish rippers - don't forget:

Curren
McNamara
Carroll

if this warm water and sunshine at the beach thing keeps up i think the real estate prices in the bay area will finally be justified.

real estate prices in the bay area will never be justified. $500,000 for $5,000 worth of wood and concrete?

This place is way too hip and trendy. I piss on the bay area.

that second to last picture is El Capitan, but not this week.

last picture = HMB, beyatches!!!

who took those pics of the two chicks making out yesterday? let's get more of them posted!!

I laugh at all those people who went to "Burning Man" over the weekend and missed epic conditions. What is the point of that whole thing?- let's go burn oil to drive to the middle of no where to pollute and burn shit, then drive home feeling more "spiritual"? WTF???? get real.

OB was still on in the middle of the day yesterday.

Briley:

I haven't surfed the jetty in a long time, is there actually a '12' on the rocks?

Since I have for years referred to the place as 12 monkees, that would definitely make me smile.

I kind of missed the epic, albiet pretty small and crowded, conditions this weekend burning gas down to Santa Cruz.

Was nice trying to keep up with some triathlete women swimming the bouys at cowells. Kind of scary to think I'm out on huge days, but can get denied by some women swimmers. I should be in a little better shape?

briley was a legend? what happened to him?

he ruled pipe? and you would think the quick to your feet waves would prove difficult for that big hombre?

I know there are more Irish rippers, just didnt have time to rattle 'em all off.

Anyone?

photo1: looks like SC harbor, but probably not.
photo2: salmon creek?
photo3: no idea
photo4: tomales bay?
photo5: army base?
photo6: el cap
photo7: HMB jetty

e - ya gotta hold your breath when you pedal through that steam - it comes up straight from HELL!
Just so there is no confusion: the Jimmie who posted yesterday about surfing in boardshorts and getting slotted at Pedro WAS NOT ME. BTW, good on ya for that stuff Jimmie.
I’m the Jimmie who has been posting here (on a semi-regular basis) for the last couple of years – I have the kid who works at a couple of the local shops, and I’m the guy on the aircraft carrier, with the wild look in my eye, hoggin’ all the waves whom blakestah complains about all the time ;) – although I’ve been riding the small board lately.
From now on, I’ll post as Jimmie M.

I heard Briley hurt his knee and then had a kid. He's basicly just past the suicide stage in life. Got sick of the new crew at pipe. Typical 30's mid life bullshit.

Sorry jimmie m. I'll change my name. to biff. you can have jimmie back

el crapitan - if you haven't been to burning man, then you can't talk shit. sure i missed a weekend of good surf, but i experienced full moon madness while dancing with hundreds of blissed out souls with the stars above and the playa below. it's an journey that everybody (with the right attitude) should take.

btw if you want "epic conditions" like last week, maybe you should move to sandy eggo where's it's like that for more than just one week over the summer ;)

Oh man, you don't have to do that! I mean, come on! "biff"? I wouldn't put that on anyone - not that there's anything WRONG with "biff" ... ;)

Hey Kaiser, it looks like you can still be honored by my presence in the agua. Just saw a doc and it's duct tape city for at least another month, minimum. Fark! At least I can report on surfing performance for different brands of this wonder substance.

Sans surgery finger will never totally straighten. BEWARE of wetsuit attacks! Gadzooks!!

sharky - i don't think you ever told us the full story on this finger of yours, do tel. no worries, my right arm doesn't fully straighten after breaking it last year. you'll get by, UNLESS it's your middle finger!

Caveman,
you would rather do this than surf epic OB?:
"experience full moon madness while dancing with hundreds of blissed out souls with the stars above and the playa below"
WTF?
sounds kinda gayish, just my opinion.

i wonder how many of those "blissed out souls" are trust fund babies, living off their parents? like the Heinz Kerry kids...

you guys should have saved the gas and other money you spent, donated it to the Red Cross, saved the pollution and surfed locally.

as for only one week a summer of good conditions at OB. I'm stoked you think that way, it keeps you east bay, DC, and marin guys off our local beach. when it gets overhead, get on down to "Lindy" or "Sandy Eggo" or "Santa Crowded", whatever.

OB is all time, and may not be good everyday, but it friggin goes OFF a lot, and uncrowded too (compared to even precious "Lindy")

-EC

crimini sharkbait! sorry to hear about the crooked finger. might provide good stories for little kids when you get old though.

and yeah friend #1, i'm 99% sure that there's a 12 on the rocks right around the lineup zone. also pretty sure there's also 13 & 14 further out - haven't gotten past 14, might keep going... anyone know what the numbers refer to?

el crapitan.. caveman is a chill cat and a good surfer who lives in the sunset. Burning Man is pretty sweet.. don't knock it till you try it.

I was surfing alone at 'white trashes' last night and this loc ness monster thing surfaced 20 feet away. What a fucking rush. I screemed! A 34 male, 6'1" 180lbs, screeming like a girl. Paddled towards shore caught a little wave on the way.

Oh fuck, oh shit...pant..pant.

I'm pretty sure it was a juvinile whale, but it was kind of skinny and darker than a normal gray whale. I know grays pretty well from spring sessions. It kind of had spots or barnicles, but it was bony and monster like. Maybe 30 feet long.

el crap-

i sorta agree with the anti-burning-man thing, but "living off their parents like the Heinz Kerry kids" is kinda ridiculous if you don't mention that the Bushes have done the exact same thing with daddy's oil money.

btw, i hear there's a new kerry kiteboarding documentary called "thicker than ketsup".

ec - i hope you're just spouting outta boredom. have you ever checked out the pics on burningman.com? have you ever seen the pics of the gorgeous women on the playa? burning man is a once a year event that i'm not going to miss. and like you say, ob goes off a lot and i'm out there every time it does. missing one week of surf isn't going to kill me.

you seem like a fanatic. just want to talk about what you DON'T know and keep a narrow mind. open it up a bit. it's all good.

ec, i'd probably agree with you since I'm kind of a loner and hate party/interaction events like that. I'd probably be saying get me out of here I'm bored kinda thing. People on E kind of annoy me with their love friendship deal. I'd rather hang with the wife, or get some exercise with one or two.

Captain Caveman!!,
not venting on you, dude. i dont check out burningman.com and i dont listen to phish or santana. just not into the whole "groovy, drumcircle" thing. to me it all sounds the same. i do know tons of people that are really into it though, some are good looking girls, most are supported by their parents. the same people you'd see out clubbing in SF, anything for a buzz i guess. me = not even interested to try it, at the very least i'd save my money.

as for OB conditions, for a guy that lives in the sunset to say it only gets epic one week a summer, you must only be referring to this summer, or you must not look at it too often.

i'd compare conditions+crowds with any California beach break, any day of the week....

although, i must say that OB has gotten a lot more crowded in the past 5 years.

-EC

OB certainly wasn't crowded this morning...and for good reason. the conditions were crossed-up, crumbly, breaking all over the place windswell that lacked any real push. still...i couldn't resist gettin' my fix so i paddled out, caught a few, and got spooked by a sea lion on a vibey day with no one else in sight. couldn't shake a prescient sensation of the ultimate local the entire time i was out.

then i picked up a box full of trash from a despicable bonfire site. the beach is a mess.

bbr,
the Bushies are understood.
let's just not forget that Heinz Kerry, and JFKv2 are both living off of Republican money. Her late husband earned it, and she was anti-democrat the whole time, now he is dead and she and her kids are living off of it, talking shiite about Repubs. it is poetry in motion. Most people are just eating it up!!! it is a beautiful thing!!

to add to the whole Burning Flan thing, (my own opinion here), there is nothing worse than surfing OB on a good, offshore day, and having to hear the friggin drum circle that is playing up on the beach. GOD that stuff is annoying!! hold the same beat for 92 minutes, drum for jah!!
Spare me! go work out your agressions volunteering for orphans or the disabled. do something with some meaning rather than annoy surfers.

again, just my own opinion, not spreading the hate.
i guess i should vent somewhere else, like on my speedbag in the garage. (insert Rocky soundtrack here)

lates,
-EC

alchi - are you really that ignorant or are you just trying to provoke responses? Ok, I'll bite. So not only are you an authority on 'gay tunes' you think all men are better athletes than women? Stop worrying about what kind of shape you're in and focus on growing up.

here is a great shot of what really goes on at Burning Man.

you can see this type of "culture" in SF on any weekend, or halloween or any "street faire".

save your gas, dont burn the oil, go surf.

http://images.burningman.com/gallery/playaman.14311.jpg

oh..ohh.. alchi get pulled over by the PC~police!

I should be better swimmer than woman! So embarrassed to be passed!

That song is soo gay! I like macho mexican music! that's all!

When did you move to SF fancy pants? You blend in well!

ec... different strokes for different folks i guess. i personally love when the drummers are drumming on the beach while i'm in the water catching waves. I take it you've never played an instrument?? Musical jamming cuts right to the core of life. Right to that indescribable, interconnected unknown that rests at the base of all creation. That may sound like mumbo-jumbo.. but.. once you feel it, you'll understand and you'll be bummed that you spent so much of your life criticizing those who felt it. All of a sudden a whole world of music and knowledge and happiness will open to you. Your surfing will improve too!

ec - you need to get informed before you make such narrow opinions. open your mind and intoxicate yourself. i don't listen to phish, don't like drum circles and my girl has shaved armpits. i like burningman for the community, the amazing art, the scenery and the bumpin djs. you'll see/experience/feel things on the playa that will never happen again because of the ephemeral nature of the event.

btw - never said it only gets epic once a year - said once this summer - and it's not even summer anymore.

EC, some of my fondest memories of OB surfing are from Indian Summer days in October with super clean overhead peaks in the water, the sun going down, and a drum circle kickin it in the dunes.

The drums permeate the lineup like no other sounds from shore. I always enjoyed it immensely, like they were playing to entertain us. Even though they were probably just entertaining themselves.

WRT bonfires, the middle avenues have about 1/10th the trash of past years....mainly because all the legal bonfires are from Lincoln to Fulton. It is WAY cool.

I like the drum circle crowd because sometimes they have some good weed. Otherwise...

e,
here/hear on the different strokes thing.

let's just say i'd rather spend my time helping out those less fortunate, than annoying others by forcing my "beats" on them.

yah, i can paddle down the beach if i want, but i shouldnt have to.
your view is similar to saying a redneck blasting Toby Keith (Shock'n Y'all) out of his monster truck up in the dunes will help me surf better. or will only the drum circle music be opening a world of music and better surfing up to me?

I have a good buddy that surfs Kellys all the time, he is a SLAYER fanatic. I'd love to see him blasting his view of "music" out there someday. it might get rid of half the lineup.

remember, different strokes....

Todd Holland is a redneck and he still rips....

I dont agree that I should have to listen to any of it, i'd like to declare "Keep your 'music' to yourselves"

but, hey we AGREE on the bonfires. glad they stopped letting them burn whenever/wherever. i just wish we'd get the cops out there issueing citations on the weekend nights. that would be hot!!!

-EC

More importantly, we need more glassy, barrelling offshore days so that I can get my fill and get out there with my camera and waterhousing!!!

So far, it's only been out in mushpiles and low light:
http://home.pacbell.net/claytn20/ob/index.htm

Keep a look out for my new unauthorized surf documentary: "E EXPOSED!" ;-)

Damn, that JPG changed my mind entirely on Burning Man. Crapinksi, we are THERE dude!!!! I'd MUCH rather look at green penis men with their gigglesacks hanging out than pull into fun little glassy bulbs. What was I thinking?! It looks especially fun since I don't drink or smoke or do any drugs. Screw getting pitted; I want to spend $300 bucks next year to hang out and choke on dust and fucking RAVE!!! Wooooo-HOOOO!!! Tonight, I will hit up all the Corscuzzies I can to see if they can tap their trustfunds to support me next year. I'm going to stop surfing and START growing my hair NOW!

I think summer lasts until the end of this month, so technically El Crapper is right. and Caveman, you did say "once a summer" not "once this summer". I will agree with Crapitan on the bonfire and drumcircle and burningman issues. I also agree that it is passed time for that Kaiser guy to post some more shots of honeys. come on now! Who were those chicks that were making out yesterday. Ya Ya!!

Uh-oh,

The streak is officially over. You can tell by the snippiness of this board.

This last week was fun for sure, but it was hardly epic. Like I almost said to the Weatherman (Bill Martin) in the line-up yesterday. I'll trade the sun for groundswell any day.

Blake-Stah, I like your take on the drums, though I've never heard them surfing. Probably because I rarely surf that end. I must say this though, you can't beat hearing the monkeys from the line-up at the Zoo.

Hey Steve-o,

Contact me and we'll hook up for a DP. Maybe next Thurs/Fri? Looks like there's some swell potential there. Go to www.splashcreations.com and fill out the contact form. That'll send me an email and we'll go from there.

I guess I'm more into checking out the Mona Lisa at the Louve or the Cistine Chapel ceiling, than the cornhole American culture/art that passes here. I guess it beats Walmart, but it just seems kind of half ass to me?

thanks alchi, I try.. just curious if you're as ignorant as you're postings make you out to be.

spent last week surfing in mainland mexico
one day we're out surfing a right point just north or puerto vallarta only accessible by boat. just me and a couple friends.
a little later a local surf camp boats out
now the lineup turns into everybody try to catch every wave. I'm thinking to myself this reminds me of linda mar. then honest to god one of the surf camp guys actually starts talking about surfing linda mar. next set wave he gets caught inside and ditches his board into the crowded lineup. that confirms it, this guy definitely surfs linda mar.

whoa flashterbation

"keep the music to yourselves"

WTF?!?!

Can you imagine if musicians kept the music to themselves? the world would be a far worse place.

keep the music flowin',

I love that right point, only pusses boat out, walk and wear your sneakers out and tie your sneakers to a buoy. Urchins suck...

i'd be psyched it Slayer played a live show up on the dunes while i surfed. that would be sick!

never heard of Toby Keith... though.. country western is pretty tough for me to digest.

Allz i'm saying is that you're anger (ec) toward the drum circles seems kinda close-minded. Would it be cooler with you if the drum-circle included a bunch of underprivilidged kids who didn't have dads and who were experiencing their first joys of playing music? Maybe one of those kids would end up being the next Max Roach or Tony Williams (all-time jazz drummers)?

it just seems that the sounds of a drum circle on the beach are totally organic, analog and mellow. It doesn't seem nearly as intrusive as if some guy pulled up in his rig and blasted music from some big sound system... not that i would mind that.

dichotomies are life
diversity is good
vote your choice
tap into your rhythym within
hold on to your board
Increase the peace.

fp, mexi,

yeah, i think i've surfed that right too...where you make the drop and then thread between two large boulders....sickness. and those freakin urchins do not feel good when stuck in your back.

although there are a couple different rights where you can boat out to, if wanted...

Fancy Pants: How's it feel to live next to someone like me? Is it worth the high rents?

Did you expect people like me when you moved here? Or did you expect everyone to be the liberal/pc/etc. types the SF marketing dept. pushed at you?

Just wondering..

as always, 3 to 5 nails it.

My neighbors are log cabin republicans...

I think the drums are kinda different. You can't really hear Toby Keith in the water - the low frequencies transmit better. Just the thump thumping of the drums. And, sometimes, the Howler Monkeys or Siamang or Lemurs at the zoo.

This morning I was in Friend #1 land, but Doof and Friend weren't around.

On this summery september day a few years back, some guy played a trumpet towards the ocean from a dune up around Lincoln Way. Miles kind of stuff, the sound carried out over the lineup at VFWs and it really did make that session kind of magical. Over this last weekend around mid-beach I kept hearing the sounds of little girls screaming in the shorebreak the whole time, like roller-coaster sound effects.

Time for Indonesia to get serious about this terrorist scourge that they have brewing.

Bali and multiple Jakarta bombings....

I wonder if the Aussies are gonna start taking it upon themselves to deal some blows to these organizations?

any thoughts?
(please no bullshit "it's George Bush's fault" messages)

alchi - my girlfriend leaves me in the dust when it comes to running and is very athletic. I took your swimming comment a little too personal. my bad.

mexi - you're right, you can get to that point on foot. It's freaking hot down there and the boat ride split between freinds wasn't bad so we took the easy route.

To be honest monday morning at OB was better than any waves we scored in the puerto vallarta area. however there were some sweet waves to be had about 8hrs south at well known river mouth.

that's ok. don't let it happen again though.

here come the barrel stories again.

Barrels, barrels, barrels.....

-i like toby keith.
-i like nirvana.
-i like miles.
-i like jurassic5.
-i sometimes tap my pen on my desk, and thump my thumb on my keyboard, and pretend my stage customs are setup in my cube rather than in my garage being unused (damn neighbors...)
-i like ferraris. don't own one, never could afford it, but damn they're sexy.
-i like jacked up trucks, they got their place in life.
-i like hot chicks.
-i like ugly chicks.
-i like longboards.
-i like shortboards.
-i like sanO.
-i like hiking into 'remote' surf spots on a cold late fall day, smelling the rotting leaves on the ground, paddling out freezing my nuts off and nearly shitting myself as a whale breaches next to me.
-i like weirdport.
-i reaaaaaaaly like warm water

people on this forum get fired up by other people's opinions all too often. remember, opinions are like assholes, everyone has one.

Blakestah, that's because it was crap.

You know that we live for groundswell, and only surf windswell when it is clean.

Bonzers don't work when it's choppy.

oh yeah, i like farting and blaming it on the dude next to me when the chick over the wall smells it.

The world is safe. The alien silver egg thing was a NASA project.

j - that had me rolling

some guy who called himself "kai zurr" at the last niceness brunch

Er, cadaver, that screaming in the shorebreak might've been me trying to get out.

Hey, someone here mentioned a good person in SF to professionally set up a guitar. My electric isn't playing right, hasn't been for some time, and I suspect the main thing is something beyond my competence (the grooves in the nut---which was replaced---are too high, I think); anyway I'd like someone who knows what they're doing to look at it. If the person who posted it is around . . . or someone remembers the info . . . ?

it is george bush's fault, all of it

I have had the boat crew blare SLAYER during empty early/late season sessions at close range spots in the Mentawais like HTs and Macaronis, and I can tell you it was a far more soothing than any freaky drum circle licks I've had to endure. The peaceful wailing solos of Jeff Hanneman and Kerry King, the tranquil screams of Tom Araya, and the harmonious sonic blasts of the double bass drums from Dave Lombardo put me in the perfect frame of mind to surf at optimal levels. The mind melting drones of the aforementioned hippy drum cirlces put me in a tribal state that makes me want to kill. They are not safe.

cams look good right now....anybody going out for a coupla shacks?

j,
schumacher or barrichello?

I hate when I'm taking a dump and the guy in the next stall stuffs his penis in a small hole in the wall to show me. Damn I hate that.

SLAYTONIC,
do you also listen to Suffocation?
is there any way you can pull strings and have them ready at a moment's notice to set up immediately behind the next OB drum circle?

Now that would be good. as soon as the first bra-less dirt-laden girl starts twirling, SUFFOCATION could start in with the triple-bass-drum and death grunt, powered by 80 generators and 300 speakers. F Yes!!!!

Now that would motivate me to rip the top off of the lip at VFW's. 3 fins out, yo!!!

if i had my choice i'd take schumacher's salary and string of records and barrichello's age.

Did somebody say barrels?
OB barrels

judahpeak,

i think that this latest jakarta bombing will shake thing up a bit over there - but the govt really won't do much. they're probably fearful that any crackdown will make things worse...indo is still a pretty wild place and thousands of islands are never easy to control.
i was actually at a party at the aussie embassy in jkta last month, so this bombing kinda freaked me out. but what's unfortunate is that even though the attack was directed at the aussies, it was the locals who died and who will ultimately suffer the brunt of the terrorist attacks....and it's almost always that way....

Reality Check ( i think there is a surboard model of that name)

I'm only playing.....we all know someone who claims lot's of barrels. Most of which never happen when you see them out.

Biff that was probably a baby humpback that put the willies up you. I've been watching them for the last week or so going north. Sometimes they'll locate a school (I presume anchovies), sound for a couple of minutes and then launch. They make bubble nets deep down that drive the fish to the surface and corral them. Up come the whales and boom! Bloody cool to watch if you can catch them when they're here. We see them each September (we're up the Manor cliffs, a great spt to watch them), then the grays go south in about Nov thru Jan, returning around April-June. If you want to see 'em, set yourself up on a cliff with a comfy seat, a few beers, a book and some bino's. Just keep watching and you'll likely see 'em between 1/4 to 3/4 mile out.
You really gotta love California when it offers that kind of action in an urban area.

RZA,
man, i have to agree with you. if the govt. there does start a crackdown, unfortunately it will get turned into "they are being a puppet of the US", i believe.

One More Thing, how do you get to go to parties at the Aussie embassy? that is insane. do they have Coopers on tap there??

Mmmmm, Coopers.

kai zurr is that girl asian?

you know how to tell don't you?

I'm not sure NZ, I think it was the tail end of a Gray, because of the dots. I didn't realize Humpbacks were in such cold water? I think the Grays are going to Baja right now?

Humpback whale

Gray whale

we went to kauai last year, walked into our hotel called The Princeville, not too shabby, overlooking Hanalei.
I looked out from the bar and saw a whale breach, right there in the bay. it was rad. then i had like 4 more beers and went down to the pool. rough stay. not too bad of a joint. i think 4 or 5 star. who cares? beer and sushi were good.

that chick from the MTV show "surfer girls" is now a waitress in the lobby bar. the only one on that show that could surf.

oh god, got to go, i am breaching

Judahpeak,

Of course, who doesn't listen to Suffocation? I know MANY of the bloggers on this forum were very, very sad when what many view as the greatest death metal band of all time (myself included), temporarily retired after their short, but epic EP "Despise the Sun" in 1998. But now with original drummer Mike Smith back (who ironically took a break from death metal to play in various jazz bands, possibly temporarily lured in by the hypnotic drum circles), Suffo is back and ready to bring happiness and cheer into the hearts of many.

I can't say it any better than Amazon did: " Wildly influential death metal legends SUFFOCATION return with Souls to Deny, their first full length album in nearly a decade. Masterfully controlled yet frightenly intense, Souls to Deny is a truly devastating display of technical death metal. Maniacally complex lead and rhythm guitar acrobatics intermix with dizzyingly proficient drum work, creating complex, savage riff collages. Often copied but never duplicated, SUFFOCATION remains at once intricately technical and immaculately heavy! Crushing brutality from the masters!!" Wow, heck yeah!!

I can't "pull any strings" as you hoped, Judahpeak. But perhaps when they're done touring Europe we can have them come to SF and play a special appearance atop the bluffs of your fabled Judah. Then they should be loud enough for most of the "mid beach" to enjoy. And of course, they would drown out the noise of any cult like drum circles, which I mentioned earlier make me want to kill.

:)

I guess it was a Humpback. Cute little guy scared the shit out of me!

Did 12 days straight but got skunked today. Probably good since my back is crying foul. Yesterday was pretty fun N of SC.

maybe hans blix and the inspectors should bust out the generators and spread the mayhem amongst the Kelly's surfers.. our drummer has set up his kit and played at the sea-wall before.. hmmm... that would be fun to surf for a few hours then come in, pick up the ax and slay for a few more hours.. or.. at least careen..

never heard Suffocation.. maybe i'll borrow that shit from Lerm or MWSF.. those heads know metal.

Our very own Lerm can lay down the SICK SICK SICK metal guitar stuff. The dude can seriously lay it down super hard. With his Marshall half-stack, gibson SG, manic speed-picking style and crazy musical memory the dude can fucking shred!! Ever heard of Deranged? Lerm and MWSF played in the gnarliest metal band when they were in high school.. maybe one of them will tell us about it?

cool to hear that there are some metal heads in the mix.

Biff I doubt it was a gray, we've never seen them this early in the year and they're always heading south from around Nov. All the fellows I've seen have been humpies for sure, right down to the micro dorsals on their backs. Although who knows? Btw if you're ever down Baja way in around February head out to San Ignacio Lagoon. They'll take you out from the fish camps and you'll be totally surrounded by mums and babies. I even got a spout in the face. Great spot to camp too, there are so many out there that you hear them breathing at night if it's still. Bugger of a road though. San Ignacio village is a great spot to stay as well, a beautiful mission.

that sounds bad-ass NZ swell.. whale breathing at night.. damn..

"i even got a spout in the face" - that quote just cracked me up (yes, i'm 45 going on 16, so sue me)

re: ugly chicks, sure why not if they're cool? when you look like me you take whatever gets thrown your way!

I guess I was blessed to be so close to humpy and he wanted to be my friend. sob.. sorry guy I rushed in like that.

My first reaction was BUMPY, BARNACLY GREAT WHITE! Funny, cuz the grays don't really spook me. I love it when the little babys take a look to see what us weird alien humans look like.

I'm surprised he was so close to shore, as it was pretty small yesterday and could have only been 4-5 feet deep.

Maybe I'll see him again later?

judahpeak,
i've gotta friend who lives in jakarta. the embassy there has monthly parties with an open bar and a sick buffet. don't know if cooper's was on tap...i was too stuck on the aussie wines. afterwards the whole crew went to a nearby pub where it just happened to be 'ladies night'. calling the women phenomenal is an understatement...i'm almost tempted to post some incriminating photos....
hopefully those parties don't come to an end.

J, nice pic! I didn't know you got me in my favorite shirt.

I wanted my last board to be that color orange....

sorry kai-ser.. pbase don't allow crossposting images..

yeah bitch!

Oh yeah, stop me..... I dare you.....

Bruce/ North of SC looks fun...

sorry kai-ser.. those are red-x's for everyone except you. though.. i think i speak for everyone when i say.. please post some honey's that aren't on the pbase site!!!! we love dem honeys!

The US Embassy in Rome used to have tons of parties. Free booze and shit but lots of military dudes on leave. I would just bail and hit our usual spot down by the pantheon.

Crazy how they built the pantheon huh? Built it over and around a pile of dirt to make sure the dome wouldn't cave and then told the peasants there was gold at the bottom so they dug it out.

You shoulda been here yesterday................

that girl in the orange bikini brings up the philosophical question "do women know when they have cameltoes?". i mean, i know when i have a batwing, so i'd naturally expect them to know, but maybe not since they are so prevalent in the wild.

burning man thread is amusing.
i was there with clean bald head and a ticket i bought myself, with money i made at a so-called "real job."
amazing how people can diss an event even though they've never been.
there is lots of "bad" art and music at burning man. there are also shirtcockers and swingers and transvestites and goths and vegans and nudies and psychos and such. there are lots of hot ladies. there is also a lot of amazing art and music and experiences to be had. life there exists without a lot of the filters that we unknowingly rely upon to keep our "quality of life" within manageable parameters. think museum curators, think radio DJ's, think TV, think your boss telling you what to do. it is intense and not for everybody. if you think it's just a bunch of dirty people on drugs in drum circles, keep thinking that, keep your mouth shut, and stay home. thanks.

Yeah, I guess those "red-x's" look like camel toes eh?

P L E A S E . . .

In regards to the girl in orange, she can do whatever she wants J! WHATEVER she wants.

yeah bitch!

shiiiit.. i just wanted to see some o Kaiser's fine fine honeys.. guess i'm the only sucka with red-x's

black rock and the playa -- woah, lotta issues there.

some of my friends are really into it. they're good people and not of the green penis sheath crowd.

but i've met the occasional poser cretins who go just to say they went; trying for a cheap hook up, going to mess with other peoples heads, etc. you know the type. sad reality: larger crowd == more bad apples. that keeps me away from that sort of thing now. 500 people -- okay. 5,000 -- no thanks.

i wouldn't wanna be hearing a trumpet or a drum circle during a solo dawn patrol, but generally speaking i often find myself wishing there were tunes of just about any sort emanating from the beach... so bring those patchouli-stinkin' hippy drum circles on... or a PA cranking some punk... either way.

photo sharing/blogging/networking uber site -- no cross posting worries, built for sharing stuff, open blog integration tools and features, etc -- flickr

no, you're just the only sucker who hasn't right-clicked on them, selected "properties", and cut'n'pasted the image url into the browser.

Hey J,

You know a cat name Mike Brauch from that outfit that you post from?

He's at this outfit that I post from now.

shit don't worry about those red x photos. Same thing you see on Mexican TV any given moment.

reality from Jakarta today.
copy + paste this into your browswer.
friggin gnarly.
click on thumbs for larger pics:

http://www.smh.com.au/photogallery/2004/09/09/1094530746707.html

-Nias

DONT SURF HERE IF YOU DONT HAVE THE CORRECT BUMPER STICKER.

WE SPRAY PAINT CARS AND DROP IN ON YOU.
WE SMART, YOU DUM.

THAT'S RIGHT, UH HUH, KELLYS COVE LOCAL BOYZZZZZ!!!!

WORD OUT TO THE PEEPS YO!!

tomstah - i know brauch well, small world. hopefully he's up to speed and doing well over there at the 'zoo.

Fine, I won't surf kellys if you don't surf here. Kelley is the pussiest/ smallest part of OB anyway. Got a girlie name.

DONT SURF OB UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER BUMPER STICKER !!!

YO.

WORD OUT TO THE MASSES AND THE MISSES'.

YOU'VE SEEN THE BUMPERSTICKERS, WELL HERE'S THE ACTION FIGURE!!!

All you weiners who surf places with girl names, ie. linda mar & kelleys can have your pussy breaks. If you have some surf bumper sticker I will tailgate you in my big ass SUV and you feel the wrath of being rammed in the ass. I will get as close as possible to read you're sticker and to see who is inside. I will compare my self to you and let you know that I dominate. I DOMINATE!

read your sticker.

I had a grey surface about 30 ft away from me one time. Scared the shiznitz outta me. Those fokkers are big and covered with barnacles. It's way scarier when you see a break in the surface expecting to see a seal and you see something the size of, well, a whale.

On drum circles, I'm fully convinced that 75% of San Francisco moved here to be freaks, generally while having their parents pay the rent. Aint no one paying $700 a month while working in a coffee shop. It's the bougouise parents of the bohemians who keep the coffee flowing. Part II of Finnegan's story opens up with an anecdote about freaks on the beach. 5% of San Franciscans are a mix of locals and transplants that actually contruibute to society. The balance of 20% are locals who can be found in Flanahan's at 7 AM. It's the best place to get an Anchor on tap before DP. You know a neighborhood has its priorities straight when the bar is open before the coffee shop.

i wish i was a trust fund kid. I'd be so into the drum circle scene!

psyche!! I sit here at the computer all day so i can live in this city. I literally coded for 8 hours today. I feel like i'm part of a virtual construction crew. another brick.. more spackle.. another brick.. more spackle.. another brick.. more spackle...repeat.. And i still like to play in drum circles!! and listen to em too! not all music-lovers and improvisers and freaks are trustafarians..

keep the whale stories coming!

cool photo..

werd jam master jay z...

many years ago surfing the homeland i saw a whale surface 25 yds. away. There was a begginer that actually got caught in the "wake" of the surfacing whale and kinda bounced off the side of the animal. It terrified the guy and was the last time I ever saw him in the water again.

snorkeling off maui, high on mushrooms a pod crusied within the visibility range of me and my freind cruising the reef. it was beautiful, a bit un-nerving and quite a humbling expereince. my freind, she was really into whales and solid free diver just started swimming toward them. i followed but the whales soon dissappered. it was rad and we felt really connected to them cause we were naked too.

Drum circles annoy me because there's a certain "look at us" factor. It's the same as the loud stereo or exhaust pipes or jangly cell phones. People who want to be looked at by others are generally annoying.

i overheard someone saying "beavers give me wood". i couldn't help but think "gee, that's awfully nice of them to just GIVE it to you, they must be well trained."

beaver, apparently readying some nice wood for my coworker

another beaver, with wood

this little fella is keepin the wood to himself

Last spring a mother gray and her two babies kept surfacing slowly and eyeing me. Maybe 30 feet away or so. The babies and I kind of stared at each other. They were as interested in me as me them. I'm sure they were thinking I'm some alien doing some weird magical shit on these waves every now and then. I see them out there all the time. Sometime I think I can communicate with them, but that's another story.

The Humpback yesterday was a freak. I swear it was the loc ness monster. Big, dark, bumpy thing. It almost seemed more teritorial than the grays.

Am I the only person who had a great time today??? No, actually, my bud was laughing the whole time too. Did have to drive a bit, but there it was, and there was I. Sounds like a bunch of people forgot the number one rule of OB.

Regarding music in the lineup, the first time I heard the bagpipes surfing in front of Spanish Bay at sunset was something I'll never forget.

What's with the so-called Kelly's crew? Don't they have to show up on at least a semi-occasional basis to make any claim? See you in the lineup, if you ever get out there.

http://www.mavsurfer.com/mavsurfer_00/editorial/image_photo/mavericks_12_22_00/pages/jay_seq3.htm

http://www.mavsurfer.com/mavsurfer_00/editorial/image_photo/mavericks_12_22_00/pages/jay_seq3.htm

http://www.mavsurfer.com/mavsurfer_00/editorial/image_photo/mavericks_12_22_00/pages/jay_seq3.htm

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