Smooth, peaky, pretty fun.
Suited up in the yard and scampered down to the local this morning. Didn’t want to deal with the “masses” of 10 or so folks at either end of the beach, though conditions may have been better up at Kelly’s or down at Sliz? Dunno. Lerm, Christian, Anastasia and I enjoyed a pleasant session with nobody else around somewhere in the Pacific Ocean. Peaky, strangely shaped shoulder/head high waves wafted in every few minutes. They would often bowl-up and break steeply but then back off and mush-out. Hard to get in the exact right spot but if you did, good things could happen. Christian found some chunkified corners and I saw him zip along backside on a somewhat phatty wave that then closed out violently... on my head. Lerm also watched Christian milk and work a long, tapering left. Teasing it like a Sufi snakecharmer. Good surfers make it look easy. Anastasia also took off on some solid humps of aquatic energy, maneuvering her egg-board like it was a little toothpick potato chip. I, personally, struggled out there this morning. Riding the RFS again I had difficulty getting into the flow. I think I’m having a hard time adjusting to riding a single fin. It feels really unresponsive while moving down the line. My normal pumping technique is all thrown off and I haven’t been able to capitalize on little pockets of energy in the wave like I can on my thruster. I basically feel like the board is sluggish and bogged down. On steep drops it holds a tight line really nice. I like how it feels when I slide-slip down the face on pitchy drops. But off the bottom, man, it feels really slow and dull, like I have to labor to get it to react. I have a tendency to think that it’s not the board, it’s me. The board doesn’t suck, I suck! It’s probably true. I mean.. on the OP pro Mentawais video Kaiser let me borrow Occy absolutely destroys it at No-Kanduis on a retro single-fin shortboard shape. Soo.. it’s not the single fin.. maybe it’s the RFS?? I don’t know.. but over the last 4 sessions I really haven’t been able to meld with the board. I feel like my progression has been stilted and I’m suddenly down 4 notches in surfing ability from where I usually am, just trying to maintain trim rather than being on top of shit and looking to burn speed by hitting the lip and cutting back. I want to be on top of my game out there but I feel held-back by the board. Is that just a product of surfing a new board? How many of you have surfed single fin shortboards?
Anyway.. it’s fun out there. Probably waves all up and down the coast today. Very little wind. Both a south swell and NW windswell making their presence felt. Good vibes blue sky. A good day to be a surfer in California.. Enjoy!
also.. about the site funkiness. It turns out that mwsf allready has a blog spam blocker set up.. soo.. it's not the spam that's hurting things.. Niceness recently switched DSL providers and mwsf thinks that the new provider (sbc) sucks for hosting.. It would be helpful for us to know what kinds of problems you're experiencing (pages won't load the until you hit refresh twice, comments won't post, long delays, etc.) Sooo please either kick me an email at cranial_bulge@yahoo.com or just describe your problem in the message board.. Or.. if you're not having any problems maybe mention that too. Thanks everyone! trying to get things smoothed out on the backend.. we know that you heads like a smooth backside..err. backend..
Slates on one of those lefts that cost him the final... i think he did a huge rebound/roundhouse on this wave and came unstuck in the whitewater.
Joel... with style to burn
Rocky sent in this photo of ****. This is the wave were Curren rides the fish and gets nutso barrels. ALso where Rasta and Dan Malloy ride those Gerry Lopez guns at the end of Sprout.
E- Dont trip. Your gonna be a better rider for using the single fin. I had the same experience that you have riding a single and then I sortta let the board do the work and stopped trying to muscle the thing. I ride wide and thick boards and you sorta have to glide and carve as oppossed to hop, slice or slash. In any event, these are days and time to take out your retro, fish or longbaord and get your steez on. There's gonna be plenty of time to kill it!!! Wish I got a sesh in....hope the wind stays down for an after work session
Posted by: pez at September 21, 2004 10:12 AMSame time, different place than your crew, e. Exact same conditions, perhaps even more fickle fickle fickle?! Looked so clear and simple from the beach AND in the water, but being in the right spot proved impossible! Odd! The scant few other peeps were paddling around looking puzzled too!
e, what is is your board shape as opposed to the loaner rfs?
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 21, 2004 10:29 AMfeeling so undermotivated lately, just dreaming of living somewhere warm w/o a care in the world, being able to get up early and surf, than go back and take a nap, wake up and make some lunch, maybe spearfish something to cook up, maybe putz around in the organic garden, than head back out for an evening surf.
Posted by: j at September 21, 2004 10:29 AMj, no reason you can't do it man! If you want it, it's out there.
Posted by: Ian at September 21, 2004 10:33 AMsharkbait.. i'm using the same board you rode. the loaner rfs.. 6'8".
here's a letter from coastal activist Mark Massara.
Dear Coastal Advocate:
After many many months the Hearst Ranch "conservation" deal was basically
decided last week at a hearing in Sonoma County. Sadly however, the
approved deal is bad for both coastal protection and public access and we
will be dealing with its statewide repercussions for a very long time.
Even more disturbing to me, was the way one appointee of Governor
Schwarzenegger was able to block virtually every attempt to improve this
deal even slightly.
While I have always tried to be realistic about the fact that big
corporations and major contributors gain greater access to decision makers
that the average person, it is extremely disappointing to see such blatant
support of corporate interests win out over our coastal legacy to future
generations. At the hearing, Mike Reilly (Coastal Commission Chair and
board member with the Coastal Conservancy) put forward a series of motions
to improve the Hearst deal and make it better for the public, but Governor
Schwarzenegger's appointee to the California Coastal Conservancy board,
Karen Scarborough, stopped all but one minor change from going forward.
Another disappointment I must report to you, originated from someone
generally counted as a good friend of the coast. Central California
Congresswoman, Lois Capps waded into the Hearst ranch debate last week
with an ill-timed and damaging endorsement of this bad deal. In spite of
numerous requests by members of our environmental alliance, (made up of
all the major local, statewide and national environmental groups)
Congresswoman Capps joined Congressman Sam Farr signing on to a
shortsighted letter that agreed with the Hearst Corporation’s position.
In spite of this loss, our attempts to improve this deal did bring some
small increases in coastal protection and access, and for this we do have
several people to thank. These include Great Coastal Places members from
Santa Rosa, who came out to last week’s hearing in force! Outraged by the
potential precedent this deal could set for land conservation deals
statewide, Sierra Club coastal activists came to show their support and to
testify before the Conservancy board.
State Senator Wes Chesbro, and aides to both Assemblymembers John Laird
and Fran Pavley also attended last weeks hearing. While they were unable
to vote on the proposal, their presence asking questions on behalf of the
people and coastal protection was certainly appreciated. All three of
these public officials were among those who had the courage to put their
concerns in writing before this hearing, and for this we thank them.
State Senator Sheila Kuehl also wrote a strongly worded letter urging the
deal be improved.
And of course, you! This campaign sent in over 1,300 postcards, 600
letters, and more than 60 letters to the editor (40 of which were
published in newspaper’s throughout California.) This campaign helped
educate many of the legislators that came to support our position, helped
attract media attention to the deal back when details were still secret
and came out to support the coast at community meetings and state hearings.
Obviously we are disappointed by the outcome for coastal protection. The
Hearst Corporation, through a campaign of deception, manipulation and
powerful connections was finally able to secure its deal for $95 million
in public money. They may have succeeded in placing the coastal trail
along the highway, reducing public access and won permission to begin
planning for their new mansion subdivision and resort, but we will
continue to review our options and do what we can to protect the coast in
spite of this deal.
In spite of this loss, I am heartened and remain optimistic that we will
prevail in our efforts to protect California's threatened, fragile
coastline. It inspires me, as someone who works every day to protect our
coast, that so many of you joined me and fought hard for coastal
protection in the face of so much money and power. Thank you for your
commitment to our threatened coast. We will not stop working and we will
not stop fighting the “Hearsts” of this world. With the support and
grassroots power of the Sierra Club's Great Coastal Places Campaign,
together we will stand up to those who seek to exploit our coast, so that
our children and our grandchildren will be able to enjoy the great coastal
places that mean so much to us.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Posted by: e at September 21, 2004 10:37 AMMake your voice heard! Find out how to get Take Action Alerts
and other important Sierra Club messages by email at:
http://www.sierraclub.org/email

Posted by: kookdom at September 21, 2004 10:37 AMe, if its a tapered narrow tail style single fin with a wider nose, try riding it more off of your front foot..i rode a single fin like that this weekend, someone gave me that advice and it helped alot..
Posted by: bagel at September 21, 2004 10:39 AMgot up early and was dissapointed down south, came back north and got some headhigh+ south peaks to myself.
Posted by: bbr at September 21, 2004 10:46 AMno site problems down here.
north LA points STILL going strong. very overhead, crowded, but almost everyone getting along and not many drop-ins. gooooood stuff. you SF headz should be seeing this southie by now?
top two things overheard this morning:
1) damn! every wave like 3 people are going for it....let's just catch a couple here and go over to Malibu (yeah, that won't be more crowded)
2) I gotta start coming to this spot more often to get ready for J-Bay. J-Bay doesn't have any channels and J-Bay is faster. (this from a tool sitting way out on the shoulder on a 8'0")
niceness!
Posted by: Hb at September 21, 2004 10:49 AMLA Times article yesterday re: toll freeway down the canyon behind Trestles to the beach and attaching to Fwy there with a gigantic flyover where the trail is now.
http://www.latimes.com/news/local/orange/la-me-trestles20sep20,1,5229381.story?coll=la-editions-orange
Those bastards have no shame!
Posted by: searoom at September 21, 2004 10:51 AMthanks for the site feedback HB.. sounds like shit is going off down there. nice. the south is too steep to really hit SF.. but.. maybe santa cruz?
Posted by: e at September 21, 2004 10:52 AME,
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 21, 2004 10:57 AMIt's not you. I grew up on shortboard single fins. I will tell you that thrusters changed the game in surfing overnight. Offering unknown speed and manuverability over single fins in everyday waves, hands down. As I've said before, singlefins work great in hollow steep waves. In less then steep hollow surf thrusters excel. If you grew up on a single fin you might be able to adapt it as your surfing DNA knows it. But if you grew up on a thruster your used to a pump and squirt routine that a single fin doesn't have except in the pocket. It's that simple. I think the RFS is cool and I want to try it as in the right conditions it could be a lotta fun. But in less then hollow barrells a thruster is the performance call. Personally I'm going back to the future and saving my pennies for a CI/Slater inspired diamond tail thruster from a local shaper for my next board. I had a 6'9" Haut Diamond tail single fin way back in 79'. Oh shit, I'm kinda old....
ps: yeah i'v ebeen expereincing the site funkyness
E, not sure what to tell ya on the board my friend. My only opinion on those boards is that I find it someone strange to think about riding a typical thruster style shortboard but as a single fin. Like imagining that if I broke off my 3 fins and replaced them with a single. How would that board ride? Would I even want to ride that board? I don't think I would. On the other end of that, my retro egg is pretty sweet with solid glide but can turn really well. I attribute this to the side fins and the "cluster" formed by the single fin as well. All in all, I am kinda tripped out on the single-fin shortboard thing. In my mind, single fins have their place where they are money! It really comes down to your translation of the available surf to your tools.
This morning, I took my egg out. I thought it was a TERRIBLE idea upon getting to the lineup. Head high + suckouts on shallow inners, duppy throw downs, I didn't want much to do with it. But, after 30 mins of misery, I starting taking off on smaller waves that I could get a good line on. Had much more fun realizing what waves I could/wanted to ride versus trying to bomb into some huge-ass closeout. Just trying to utilize the board for what it wants to do.
Anyway, I rant.
Anyone got experience mixing tints in resin for ding repair? I am in need of some coaching.
Posted by: Kaiser at September 21, 2004 11:03 AMSeptember in SF
Nice Southie hitting certain spots
Perfect weather
can it get better?
Posted by: Sutro D at September 21, 2004 11:04 AMoh hey e, I meant what kinda board is your regular ride, not the loaner. My own is near identical. Your surfing definitely doesn't suck! When given the [ admittedly too rare ] opportunity to turn, I noticed my first instant instinct has been to heel/toe snowboardy try to turn my thruster, *then* realizing I should probably be thinking about weight on my feet, etc instead..I borrowed the rfs, followed the heel/toe inclination, and ended up tearing around like a banshee on that thing. In my case I think not knowing enough about thrusters worked far to my advantage. Who knows, to each their own...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at September 21, 2004 11:04 AMSurfed north of SC yesterday, but it was kinda funky so I opted for the old standby on West Cliff early this morning. It's picking up the south nicely. Sat with the usual pack of older dudes on the point. Luckily the young local rippers weren't out, so I picked off quite a few. Some long lulls, but the sets were like 8-10 waves each, with the better sets going well overhead.
Posted by: Davo at September 21, 2004 11:04 AMRegarding the RFS, I think Sharkbait has the best setup. She rocks the same board setup (minus SF SurfShop planer grazing here and there) in both the RFS and a thruster setup. That setup is solid to determine the differences between fin setups.
Where is Dano?
Where is Christian?
Where is Robme?
Posted by: Kaiser at September 21, 2004 11:08 AMmy dream surf trip

Posted by: j at September 21, 2004 11:09 AMwhere is that? peru? spain? chile?
Posted by: at September 21, 2004 11:14 AMLooks like alaska, Mt St. Elias?
or the jetty with some photoshop touches
Posted by: Sutro D at September 21, 2004 11:21 AMThis just in: This morning at 3 mile, north of Santa Cruz I witnessed a car theft, that was somewhat organized and preys on surfers. A couple "farm worker types" (politically correct term) cased the beach for backpacks of surfers in the water, found one and removed the car keys, wallet etc. They proceeded to find the car and steal it, disregarding our "shouts" of protest. Bold chaps they were. Apparently, according to the local CHP, this type of crime has been common as of lately. -- Jeff Hund, Santa Cruz
Haven't heard of 3 mile in years.
Posted by: kookdom at September 21, 2004 11:22 AMThis just in: This morning at 3 mile, north of Santa Cruz I witnessed a car theft, that was somewhat organized and preys on surfers. A couple "farm worker types" (politically correct term) cased the beach for backpacks of surfers in the water, found one and removed the car keys, wallet etc. They proceeded to find the car and steal it, disregarding our "shouts" of protest. Bold chaps they were. Apparently, according to the local CHP, this type of crime has been common as of lately. -- Jeff Hund, Santa Cruz
Haven't heard of 3 mile in years.
Posted by: kookdom at September 21, 2004 11:22 AMkaiser, i mix. what do ya need. throw me an email.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at September 21, 2004 11:24 AMMe too, j, except with waves.
Kaiser, my experience with tint was, no matter how much I used, it was too much.
I've started the rhinoplasty and assordid patchwork on my Rockedaway shortboard. I have the skillz to get it to where it will perform EXACTLY as before---hurdling over close-outs, burying its nose or spinning out at the start of great waves, etc.
Posted by: Klooless at September 21, 2004 11:30 AMwell, nice of them to "shout"...
oh and, there are these little pocket things in wetsuits and even leashes that fit an extra key REALLY nice...
Posted by: tricnabyer at September 21, 2004 11:32 AMi got a squat-down, butt-out narrel on the inside bar this morning. yeah! i like the rfs.
Posted by: steamwand at September 21, 2004 11:33 AMHey Folks,
Posted by: Mazi at September 21, 2004 11:33 AMI need some wetsuit help and I'm not sure where to go. I've got an O'neill wetsuit that's about three years old. It has a few holes and I've patched some of them w/ wetsuit repair glue, but some of them have stretched quite a bit. I don't know if it needs stich work or if it's even beyond repair. Luckily most of the holes are in the legs, so when it takes on water it's not too bad...but then again, the water is only going to get colder so I'd like to fix this soon. Any suggestions? Know of anyone that can fix a suit at on a college student's budget?
pre-dawn looking at one spot. noticed a light, but cold offshore breeze. yep, must be the first day of fall! nice. watch conditions a bit longer and decide that it's not quite happening for me. drive north and am disappointed to find that it's not really happening either -- at least not as 4.9 @ 16 would imply.
hit it with a couple of friends cuz time is short and end up with one of those seshies where conditions were better than i thought and i had a ton more fun than i expected when viewing things from the beach. it was a short sesh, but i caught a handful of fun ones and two that made my day...if not my week. did (of course) also get caught inside on the paddle treadmill once just to keep it real.
e, re the single-fin, i haven't tried the RFS and i imagine that it rides quite a bit differently than a standard single-fin. that said, some of the things you're talking about ring true for me and my experience on my 6'5 single. it took me a few sessions to get used to the board and, as Kaiser mentioned re his egg, just let it do its thing. i rode it exclusively for 3 months and have recently started mixing things up with my standard thruster. i think that the single-fin has improved my surfing (not that you'd know if from watching!) and the thruster is easier to ride. however, i've had days where the single-fin is frickin' unreal! quiver...it seems...is the name of the game.
hmmm...sorry 'bout the long post.
Posted by: ck at September 21, 2004 11:38 AMuse dental floss to stitch that shit. the white looks kinda weird but it works like a charm,
Posted by: bbr at September 21, 2004 11:40 AMbagel's homie

Posted by: e at September 21, 2004 11:42 AMalaska it is, sutro D wins a rabbit with a pancake on his head. i just imagine riding waves at 3am under the sun that never quite sets in the summertime!
Posted by: j at September 21, 2004 11:43 AMGeeze, Mark's sure full of himself. I tossed my Sierra Club membership over this. There is so much that is plainly wrong and incorrect about his statements that I cannot imagine addressing it all here. The deal protects 80,000 acres of land including many miles of coastline. What it doesn't do is permit a lot of people to swarm all over it on public access trails. I'm okay with that. I guess he isn't.
Posted by: g at September 21, 2004 11:48 AMi haven't noticed any problems with the site. my only problem is dragging my ass out of bed at dawn to get some waves. but i've already scheduled a board meeting at 4pm today.
blakestah - i'm really interested in trying out the loaner rfs. maybe i can pick it up from e in the next couple of days. let me know...
Posted by: caveman at September 21, 2004 11:54 AMSpeaking of Alaska, i just watched that movie"49 Degrees" about Vancouver surfing. Definately worth a look. Its playing on Fuel TV. Reminded me of Norcal before the mass migration to our coastal shores for better or worse.
Posted by: Sutro D at September 21, 2004 12:02 PMg, thanks for chiming in. Mark is definitely an, umm.. "opinionated" guy. He mentions how disappointed he is in the deal, but doesn't mention why, except for the fact that certain people voted certain ways. He doesn't mention in the letter why he thought the deal went bad. I, for one, would be interested to hear anything you have to say about it, g. Do any new surf spots get opened up?
Posted by: e at September 21, 2004 12:02 PMNever did I think that my namesake would come up in a blog post here... Classic.
My RFS is fun, but I still havn't surfed it in ideal conditons. Definately waiting for that day... Definately a different style of riding. Really good though. Let the board ride. Don't ride the board.
I've had the opposite a bit from E on my waves, more drive off the bottom, and harder to take off on steep waves when you are taking off laterally. My board paddles real well, probably cause i let it stay rather thick to counter balence the weight of the RFS system. All in all, good to ride different boards.
Aight. back to work?
Posted by: elias at September 21, 2004 12:04 PMmy friends are taunting me..
"10-12 foot Malibu with 10-20 mile an hour off shores…..it was kinda 2 windy this morning but I got a few shacks"
Posted by: bagel at September 21, 2004 12:05 PMMt. St. Elias is a pointbreak in Alaska.
Posted by: at September 21, 2004 12:12 PMI remember seeing a picture of Dave Parmenter surfing it but that mountain peak was very disticntively in the background.
I have to refresh the site to get it to load and sometimes it shows up looking like a word document (white background, wierd formatting).
I think I spotted SS surfing south of my street near the end of my session, but did not introduce myself.
Doof and I were agast that there was someone out before dawn when we got to the water. We managed to vibe him out of the water without intending to. Of course there is one guy out and three other paddle right to the spot he's at on a 3 mile beachbreak, what do you expect?
I finally figured that with the Dawn's light came the realization that OB was not really feeling the love of this South Swell. Or at least not this particular stretch, so he got out and drove to another.
Posted by: friend #1 at September 21, 2004 12:13 PMI have to refresh the site to get it to load and sometimes it shows up looking like a word document (white background, wierd formatting).
I think I spotted SS surfing south of my street near the end of my session, but did not introduce myself.
Doof and I were agast that there was someone out before dawn when we got to the water. We managed to vibe him out of the water without intending to. Of course there is one guy out and three other paddle right to the spot he's at on a 3 mile beachbreak, what do you expect?
I finally figured that with the Dawn's light came the realization that OB was not really feeling the love of this South Swell. Or at least not this particular stretch, so he got out and drove to another.
Posted by: friend #1 at September 21, 2004 12:15 PMthen the site doesn't reload when you post a comment so you end up double posting by mistake and looking impertinent.
Posted by: friend #1 at September 21, 2004 12:16 PMi've noticed the same friend #1. thanks for posting..
shit.. i have to get to work!!! Ack!!
Posted by: e at September 21, 2004 12:21 PMsame as friend #1 for me too..
Posted by: bagel at September 21, 2004 12:30 PMJ,
That is Yukatat on a crappy day. i surfed a mysto right pont close to there near Sitka. I hear there are surf camps out in Yukatat now. Strange enough the water is really warm up in SE Alaska iin the summer, I fished many a day waist deep in board shorts. If there wasn't mosquitos up there is would be paradise. My wife and I dream of one day having a home in Alaska and one in Mexico and dividing our time between the two.
Posted by: mexi at September 21, 2004 12:44 PMHere's a good site on surfing vancouver.
Someone punched out the ignition on my motorcycle this weekend, trying to steal it. Apparently they didn't notice the huge chain around the rear wheel. :(
Posted by: Nate at September 21, 2004 12:48 PMHave Killer whales or Orcas ever attcked a surfer? They are just big dolphins right?............Bueler, anyone, Bueler?
Posted by: Sutro D at September 21, 2004 12:58 PMDouglas & Sturgess has a wide variety of resin tints available at their location on Bryant St. near Fifth. My recommendation is to whip up a test batch to match colors; depending on the color desired substantially more or substantially less than seems right is often the reality.
The car theft is crazy but having your keys on you at all times is the best way to go. Heading up to Sea Ranch for a long weekend for surf and abalone diving. Why does the work week drag so?
Here at 5th/ Folsom the website has been coming in fine. Laughing Squid seems to be a good host if you need to swithch....
Posted by: goodmorning at September 21, 2004 01:14 PMgroove salad rocks. currently listening to Tosca, Fuck Dub.
http://www.somafm.com/
Posted by: streaming rules at September 21, 2004 01:17 PM5mm Canada is also a good video about the pac Nor West...
Pacific North West
src="http://paulferraris.com/personal/gra/isum2004.jpg>
Posted by: mexi at September 21, 2004 01:17 PM
Posted by: at September 21, 2004 01:20 PMnever seen 49 degrees, but have seen 5mm canada on numerous occasions. good stuff. i've heard the summertime waters up there get warm due to some offshore currents, i'm dying to check it out next summer. any adventurous takers willing to try an off the typical surf trip trip? i can imagine the baggage handlers up there when they see board bags....
Posted by: j at September 21, 2004 01:20 PMRosecrans, MB this mornin'
Posted by: Hb at September 21, 2004 01:35 PMdamn you guys are pumped down there hb! a little bird told me its fun at ob too right now..i get to work till 8 yay
Posted by: bagel at September 21, 2004 02:04 PM
Posted by: e at September 21, 2004 02:05 PMDid someone say there was video of someone getting punched out at FP posted yesterday? I couldn't find it, anyone know where it is?
Posted by: Jaques Haas at September 21, 2004 02:08 PMStarting to breakdown at the beach. just surfed a mediocre session at the beach. getting worse and worse by the minute with the building tide. i'd say its average at best and will be crappy in an hour or two. i think that 9:30-noon was the window today. the huge high tide and mild onshores will all but kill any evening sesh. try SC or a high tide spot exposed to 190 degree south. there is swell in the water, just missing ob by about 20 yards. damn!
Posted by: dsx at September 21, 2004 02:10 PMwedge this morning:

Posted by: bbr at September 21, 2004 02:10 PMStarting to breakdown at the beach. just surfed a mediocre session at the beach. getting worse and worse by the minute with the building tide. i'd say its average at best and will be crappy in an hour or two. i think that 9:30-noon was the window today. the huge high tide and mild onshores will all but kill any evening sesh. try SC or a high tide spot exposed to 190 degree south. there is swell in the water, just missing ob by about 20 yards. damn!
Posted by: dsx at September 21, 2004 02:11 PMStarting to breakdown at the beach. just surfed a mediocre session at the beach. getting worse and worse by the minute with the building tide. i'd say its average at best and will be crappy in an hour or two. i think that 9:30-noon was the window today. the huge high tide and mild onshores will all but kill any evening sesh. try SC or a high tide spot exposed to 190 degree south. there is swell in the water, just missing ob by about 20 yards. damn!
Posted by: dsx at September 21, 2004 02:11 PMyes we are blessed down here these last couple of days.
and wrybread, i think, thanks for the blackark link! iiirrie!
fyi if you are around Santa barbara this thursday...john brown's body is playing at Soho. JBB are insane, they are the only newish reggae band that sound like they have been transported back to the 60's/70's sound. Roots!
Posted by: Hb at September 21, 2004 02:19 PMdon't bother with SC
Posted by: at September 21, 2004 02:21 PMthe wind has killed it!
Done for the day
Kaiser,
I'm in the house. I've been a lurker lately. Anyway, south is definitely on tap. One of the better ones I have seen. Some solid overhead sets at times. I saw some of the best closeout barrels I have ever seen. Absolutely no chance of making it out however.
I caught the last 2 minutes of the finals down south yesterday on the web. It'd be cool to see Joel win the whole thang this year. The guy is probably the smoothest surfer out there, and he totally owns floaters.
Kaiser wrote: "Had much more fun realizing what waves I could/wanted to ride versus trying to bomb into some huge-ass closeout" -- Is this the Kaiser formerly know as Superman?
-d
Posted by: dano at September 21, 2004 02:34 PMArvo seshie: rumpled/glassy peaky waist-high crumbly peeling eggworthy nuggets.
Posted by: Klooless, hip to the jargon at September 21, 2004 02:40 PM
Posted by: PARKO at September 21, 2004 02:44 PMMEXI - do you have any advice for surf travel photography and expensive equipment? IE: gee I'd like to get out in the surf but I'm a little worried leaving my expensive camera equipment unattended in my room (even if it has a lock). Any inventive ways of locking your equipment up or keeping it out of the hands of others? Not sure if I am being paranoid - headed to MEX soon and just don't want my trip ruined.
Posted by: DAK at September 21, 2004 02:47 PMHB is right. John Brown's Body is a must see Reggae show. I saw them open up for Lee "Scratch" Perry 4 yrs ago at the Maritime and was very impressed (they are white boyz from Ithaca / Boston). They will also be here on Oct 2 playing at Reggae in the Park.
FYI- John Brown was a white radical abolishionist who lead a raid against Harper's Ferry, WV in 1859 hoping to arm a slave insurrection. He was captured and hanged for murder, treason and inciting a slave riot. "John Brown's body lies a mouldering in the grave" became a Civil War anthem that was sung by black and white Union army men alike.
Posted by: traut at September 21, 2004 02:59 PMHey! Remember me? Since I moved, I've been without internet (thanks to SBC) and too busy at work to log on. I haven't been in the water for two weeks so tomorrow am gotta do a dp.
Single fin eh... Haven't really ridden one for years but looking forward to testing the RFS. I think it calls for a smoother turning style than the thruster and maybe a little more of your weight shifted forward. That should get you outta the bottom turn faster. Try focussing more on setting the rails toward the center than the fin. The weight of the fin box would probably set the boards balance further forward. That's my guess.
Posted by: Dennis at September 21, 2004 03:06 PMHey! Remember me? Since I moved, I've been without internet (thanks to SBC) and too busy at work to log on. I haven't been in the water for two weeks so tomorrow am gotta do a dp.
Single fin eh... Haven't really ridden one for years but looking forward to testing the RFS. I think it calls for a smoother turning style than the thruster and maybe a little more of your weight shifted forward. That should get you outta the bottom turn faster. Try focussing more on setting the rails toward the center than the fin. The weight of the fin box would probably set the boards balance further forward. That's my guess.
Posted by: Dennis at September 21, 2004 03:07 PMrad..
any mp3's anywhere?
Posted by: bagel at September 21, 2004 03:08 PM"don't bother with SC
the wind has killed it!"
Dude nice try...you should have said something like its really soft on the rising tide or the incoming tide is making all wierd and not worth it.....
Posted by: dsx at September 21, 2004 03:16 PMIn Mexico I usually drive my truck, my truck bed locks and I've rigged a cover over the bed that is impossible to get to and it keeps the film cool, plus theres the shell lock (easy to bust). When I travel and stay in hotels I usually leave my equipment with the owner and if I'm traveling to a spot in a rental or bus, I shoot after I surf so that nobody knows I have camera gear until i'm done. Also I bring my own locks always, this is key in S America where most rooms have chests built into the room and a padlock on the door. I usually try to be stealthy when shooting in sketchy areas.
Posted by: mex at September 21, 2004 03:17 PMJBBody mp3's (and or video) http://www.johnbrownsbody.com/audvid.html
Posted by: traut at September 21, 2004 03:17 PMThat went out to DAK
Posted by: mex at September 21, 2004 03:18 PMHows the surf???
John Browns body gets some play on my Launchcast player....good roots.
I like a white raggae band from time to time....'cause they tend to overdo it on the bass.
...and i like alot of bass to roll out of AMP's....
.one time in 3 rivers stadium pitsburgh you could actually see the bass coming from the speakers....
...phil lesh.....a white guy. "overdoes it" on the bass...which if you are still with me, I like.
because i like a lot of bass to roll out of AMP's....
Posted by: tomstah at September 21, 2004 03:18 PMbecause I like a lot of ass to roll out of my cuz's posts...
Posted by: Kaiser's cousin at September 21, 2004 03:22 PM9/20/04
Dear Friends,
Enough of the handwringing! Enough of the doomsaying! Do I have to come there and personally calm you down? Stop with all the defeatism, OK? Bush IS a goner -- IF we all just quit our whining and bellyaching and stop shaking like a bunch of nervous ninnies. Geez, this is embarrassing! The Republicans are laughing at us. Do you ever see them cry, "Oh, it's all over! We are finished! Bush can't win! Waaaaaa!"
Hell no. It's never over for them until the last ballot is shredded. They are never finished -- they just keeping moving forward like sharks that never sleep, always pushing, pulling, kicking, blocking, lying.
They are relentless and that is why we secretly admire them -- they just simply never, ever give up. Only 30% of the country calls itself "Republican," yet the Republicans own it all -- the White House, both houses of Congress, the Supreme Court and the majority of the governorships. How do you think they've been able to pull that off considering they are a minority? It's because they eat you and me and every other liberal for breakfast and then spend the rest of the day wreaking havoc on the planet.
Look at us -- what a bunch of crybabies. Bush gets a bounce after his convention and you would have thought the Germans had run through Poland again. The Bushies are coming, the Bushies are coming! Yes, they caught Kerry asleep on the Swift Boat thing. Yes, they found the frequency in Dan Rather and ran with it. Suddenly it's like, "THE END IS NEAR! THE SKY IS FALLING!"
No, it is not. If I hear one more person tell me how lousy a candidate Kerry is and how he can't win... Dammit, of COURSE he's a lousy candidate -- he's a Democrat, for heavens sake! That party is so pathetic, they even lose the elections they win! What were you expecting, Bruce Springsteen heading up the ticket? Bruce would make a helluva president, but guys like him don't run -- and neither do you or I. People like Kerry run.
Yes, OF COURSE any of us would have run a better, smarter, kick-ass campaign. Of course we would have smacked each and every one of those phony swifty boaty bastards down. But WE are not running for president -- Kerry is. So quit complaining and work with what we have. Oprah just gave 300 women a... Pontiac! Did you see any of them frowning and moaning and screaming, "Oh God, NOT a friggin' Pontiac!" Of course not, they were happy. The Pontiacs all had four wheels, an engine and a gas pedal. You want more than that, well, I can't help you. I had a Pontiac once and it lasted a good year. And it was a VERY good year.
My friends, it is time for a reality check.
1. The polls are wrong. They are all over the map like diarrhea. On Friday, one poll had Bush 13 points ahead -- and another poll had them both tied. There are three reasons why the polls are b.s.: One, they are polling "likely voters." "Likely" means those who have consistently voted in the past few elections. So that cuts out young people who are voting for the first time and a ton of non-voters who are definitely going to vote in THIS election. Second, they are not polling people who use their cell phone as their primary phone. Again, that means they are not talking to young people. Finally, most of the polls are weighted with too many Republicans, as pollster John Zogby revealed last week. You are being snookered if you believe any of these polls.
2. Kerry has brought in the Clinton A-team. Instead of shunning Clinton (as Gore did), Kerry has decided to not make that mistake.
Posted by: michael moore at September 21, 2004 03:23 PM3. Traveling around the country, as I've been doing, I gotta tell ya, there is a hell of a lot of unrest out there. Much of it is not being captured by the mainstream press. But it is simmering and it is real. Do not let those well-produced Bush rallies of angry white people scare you. Turn off the TV! (Except Jon Stewart and Bill Moyers -- everything else is just a sugar-coated lie).
4. Conventional wisdom says if the election is decided on "9/11" (the fear of terrorism), Bush wins. But if it is decided on the job we are doing in Iraq, then Bush loses. And folks, that "job," you might have noticed, has descended into the third level of a hell we used to call Vietnam. There is no way out. It is a full-blown mess of a quagmire and the body bags will sadly only mount higher. Regardless of what Kerry meant by his original war vote, he ain't the one who sent those kids to their deaths -- and Mr. and Mrs. Middle America knows it. Had Bush bothered to show up when he was in the "service" he might have somewhat of a clue as to how to recognize an immoral war that cannot be "won." All he has delivered to Iraq was that plasticized turkey last Thanksgiving. It is this failure of monumental proportions that is going to cook his goose come this November.
So, do not despair. All is not over. Far from it. The Bush people need you to believe that it is over. They need you to slump back into your easy chair and feel that sick pain in your gut as you contemplate another four years of George W. Bush. They need you to wish we had a candidate who didn't windsurf and who was just as smart as we were when WE knew Bush was lying about WMD and Saddam planning 9/11. It's like Karl Rove is hypnotizing you -- "Kerry voted for the war...Kerry voted for the war...Kerrrrrryyy vooootted fooooor theeee warrrrrrrrrr..."
Yes...Yes...Yesssss...He did! HE DID! No sense in fighting now...what I need is sleep...sleeep...sleeeeeeppppp...
WAKE UP! The majority are with us! More than half of all Americans are pro-choice, want stronger environmental laws, are appalled that assault weapons are back on the street -- and 54% now believe the war is wrong. YOU DON'T EVEN HAVE TO CONVINCE THEM OF ANY OF THIS -- YOU JUST HAVE TO GIVE THEM A RAY OF HOPE AND A RIDE TO THE POLLS. CAN YOU DO THAT? WILL YOU DO THAT?
Just for me, please? Buck up. The country is almost back in our hands. Not another negative word until Nov. 3rd! Then you can bitch all you want about how you wish Kerry was still that long-haired kid who once had the courage to stand up for something. Personally, I think that kid is still inside him. Instead of the wailing and gnashing of your teeth, why not hold out a hand to him and help the inner soldier/protester come out and defeat the forces of evil we now so desperately face. Do we have any other choice?
Yours,
Michael Moore
www.michaelmoore.com
mmflint@aol.com
Lunch surf was fun but west of the great highway wasn't harnessing much by the time I got out.
Anyone remember that local SC reggae band that had the white dude that sang and played that crazy drum set up? Name is right on the tip of my tongue but I just can't remember it.
Posted by: kookdom at September 21, 2004 03:24 PM
Posted by: FLIPPER at September 21, 2004 03:30 PMi take michael moore's views on politics about as seriously as i take richard simmon's views on working out.

Posted by: j at September 21, 2004 03:45 PMwedge again today (i'm pretty sure):

Posted by: bbr at September 21, 2004 03:50 PMKerry is history.Bush is da man.
Posted by: at September 21, 2004 03:50 PMKerry is history.Bush is da man.
Posted by: at September 21, 2004 03:50 PMBut Simmons got millions of people motivated to excercise (maybe not you or I) -- Same deal with Moore. Yes, he's extreme. But we need someone to shake it up and talk about the issues that the mainstream media is prevented from talking about because of their parent corporations. I dig Moore.
Posted by: Davo at September 21, 2004 03:51 PM

Posted by: ? at September 21, 2004 03:54 PMBush is not da man. He's a pansy. just ask the National Guard.
Posted by: Davo at September 21, 2004 03:55 PMmy great grandpa wanted to be reincarnated has girl's underwear.
HI GRANDPA!!

he was always one to dive into his work

Posted by: j at September 21, 2004 03:55 PMtan girls rule
Posted by: at September 21, 2004 04:00 PMKookdom---- Was it Cornerstone? They ripped some sets thru the early 90's in SC. Killah horn section which (per me) is a must for live Reggae
Posted by: steama at September 21, 2004 04:06 PMgirls rule
Posted by: dano at September 21, 2004 04:08 PM
Posted by: ? at September 21, 2004 04:10 PM
Posted by: HHAHAHAA! at September 21, 2004 04:14 PM

Posted by: THAT"S RIGHT MOFO! at September 21, 2004 04:19 PM
Posted by: hmmm at September 21, 2004 04:24 PMDefinately could have been cornerstone, sounds familiar. I just remember that they used to play everwhere back in the early 90s and I couldn't get away from them, everywhere I went they were playing a set.
Wow, that pic brings back old memories, college was definately a fun time.
Posted by: kookdom at September 21, 2004 04:30 PM
Posted by: hmmmm at September 21, 2004 04:35 PMAnyone ever checked out Alcatraz when the swell is from 250 deg? Looks like there are shoals on the NW corner of the island. All speculation from Nav charts, of course. But I suppose you could ask the old warden what he saw.
Posted by: Andrew on 44th at September 21, 2004 04:43 PMGood to see the quality pics post 3:00 p.m.!
Nice work.
Posted by: Kaiser at September 21, 2004 04:49 PMcover girl...
Posted by: at September 21, 2004 04:55 PMhttp://www.uglypeople.com/uploaded/18609/u3.jpg
e - interesting feedback. And your feedback is not the norm, which is fine, I'm interested in why it works better for some than for others. Next time you ride it try to get a mental image of the fin as your balance point, and get used to it being in the middle, and slamming it into a bottom turn for drive. That's definitely how I approach it. Requires a little more front foot than a thruster. Doesn't require as much rail reliance.
For those making comparisons to a rigid single, it is not such a good comparison. I think the RFS is as different from a thruster as it is from a rigid single. The most common comment is that it feels skateboard-like (longboard skateboard like). And at least in my case, with two decades of thruster experience, I get higher performance with the RFS, which is the principal reason I'm doing this project. It's curious to see for whom else this is true, and for whom it is not...
Posted by: blakestah at September 21, 2004 08:07 PMAnyone have j's email?
Posted by: Ian at September 21, 2004 09:48 PMhttp://www.abrokedownmelody.com/trailer.html
Posted by: Ian at September 21, 2004 10:28 PMian hit me up at nitsuj at gmail dot com
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