E's Surf Report

checked the beach and wasn't feeling it. totally doable though. south wind spots are probably good.

it always amazes me how high guys like the brothers fletcher and bruce irons get when they boost.

it always amazes me how high guys like the brothers fletcher and bruce irons get when they boost.

what is the secret to surviving the dp? i always feel icky all day long and can't seem to be productive, then i crash at 5 pm. it's worth it, but...

good write up this morning e. Felt it.

had some bowly windswell around these parts this mornin'. water was clear and spectacular. beautiful sunrise. the air/water/feel/look felt like we are at winter's doorstep. "i'll let you in soon enough" sexy and tough Miss Winter said.

nice words e. shout out to hb and his irie way.
a few days ago i asked all the 220+ boys if they ride anything under 7'- 7'2" anyone? if you do, shout out some diemensions. i'm working on a template just want to make sure i get the volume right before i commit, thanks.

Surviving the DP is about going to bed early consistently so you're not exhausted. Get up at 6 every day, in bed by 10. Take a jug of hot water and a bar of soap to shower off before heading back. Take a secret nap over lunchtime. Drink a little bit of really good coffee. (I roast my own, check this out.) Sleep 9 hours the night after a DP to recover. Work out other days at the same time you would have been surfing. I think it's all about getting in the routine and not making the DP an exception but an everyday thing.

Lots of fun stuff around this weekend in SF, gotta love fall in SF.

Reggae in the Park
Toots is on at 4:30pm on saturday

Strictly Bluegrass
Poors Mans Whiskey plays on friday around lunch, won't make that one
Tony Rice plays on saturday, guy is the sickest flat picker around

Strictly Bluegrass is free at the speedway meadow and it gets friggin' packed early. Can bring your own cooler and everything, dogs allowed on leash too. One of the best music festivals in SF IMHO.

So yeah, any surfers who are into bluegrass won't be doing the 9-12 shift on saturday so it should be much less crowded during that time frame, then all the surfers into reggae won't be surfing the afternoon shift, so.......everyone should be happy now.

Surviving the DP is about going to bed early consistently so you're not exhausted. Get up at 6 every day, in bed by 10. Take a jug of hot water and a bar of soap to shower off before heading back. Take a secret nap over lunchtime. Drink a little bit of really good coffee. (I roast my own, check this out.) Sleep 9 hours the night after a DP to recover. Work out other days at the same time you would have been surfing. I think it's all about getting in the routine and not making the DP an exception but an everyday thing.

i was there the day fletcher busted that. that place is a launch ramp.

Got a few racy lefts and rights at OB this morning. Was totally bummed yesterday morning when I woke up pre dawn, with images of perfect OB H2O bombs in my mind, looking forward to catching some waves and realized that I was in New York City.

Anyone got a room for rent by the beach for a few months. I don't have much stuff, just looking for a DP base from which I can crash at 2-4 times a week.

> What mood or melody do they play? Which do you play?

For me, whatever it is, it's something that most people wouldn't want to listen to... GG Allin? A.C.?

All is back to normal in SF surf land....

Dawned it and got my car registered and made it to work at 9:48.

When does the DP fade start? I surfed last night had 4 beers and didn't get a good night sleep.

sets of 7 email me. I got some experience in that category.

thanks hb and 3to5

E, nasty write up today! Really refreshing and a steller take. I enjoyed it.

I love to get waves on the DP. For my cube dwellin ass, the DP gets me thru the day. I usually am feelin the morning surf until at least noon. I think being organized is pretty helpful as well. But, there are days when I can sit at my desk and get some crap done but can't motivate. But this is standard issue with anything.

3to5 - I will throw on some lead over the weekend to bulk up a bit and then get back to you.... BTW, my rack is almost complete. I will send pics of it Saturday.

nate - cool link! i've been toying with the idea of trying to roast my own...coffee, going to have to order a lb and see what happens.

True dat e, anytime I start to feel like I'm a good surfer I see people who rip so effortlessly it puts me in my place, but also keeps me driving to improve. Then there is the ocean: it keeps everyone humble, even the hottest rippers.

Totally off topic, but kind of puts things in perspective:

Just saw on the interent that Jason Bogle died this morning.

From the museum of the hard to believe...
Waves generated by tsunamis are not surfable, officials warn -- Honolulu Star-Bulletin

Never mind that they apparently don't know that tsunamis are actually waves.

Beautiful!

Fakestah's site site back
He had us fooled
1 month... no wait
a Couple of weeks... no wait
a couple of days

mmmmm

Beautiful!

My new quiver

The biggest drawback to the dp on work days is the damn sinus drain right in the middle of a meeting.

I went home after a weekend session and leaned over to pet the dog and a cup of saltwater poured out of my nose right on his head. Sorry, Rocky.

A little throw back to the 90's. Gotta love that board eh?

And by the way, Aqua carries Zinka, I swear....

Way to go Blakestah! Thank You.

HA! Anyone want to venture a guess as to the identify of the surfer attached to this board? Hint: One of Niceness' nicest.

I am rarely "on" when I surf. Gues it's like an artist. They never are happy with thier work. Yesterday I want happy with my surfing. Partly because it was bumpy a delayed take offs and partly cause I was a little hung over from the night before and was real slow to my feet.

I think I now have some style that is not kooky and now actually throw spray and such. It's all random though. I surf best in the big stuff because I,m so amped and the wave has a lot of face to manuver on.

I do try to feel the wave and my board and really let them dictate how I surf. Surfing with real good surfers also helps. I get motivated seeing a bud get shacked or making a nice turn. I want to do the same so I go for it. Traveling also helps cause you gotta represent and you dont want to be some yuppie kook in MEX. Surfing point breaks also help style as you get clean waves. Sex and weed help too.

Last time i was down South I saw something like 3 guys sporting the Zinka. Gave me a good chuckle.

j, roasting is easy but it takes some practice. I use a slightly modified popcorn popper. But you can start with a stock one. SM is in Emeryville so I just pick up beans there; they mail also. Just stick the popper outside (roasting makes a lot of smoke), throw in some beans, plug it in. After you hear it crackling for a while, unplug, dump the beans, and let them cool. There's a lot more to it than that like temp, timing, etc. but that's good enough to start. Instructions also on the site for how to do this.

House-roasted coffee is the best. (For some reason, the site thinks the word 'home' is questionable!)

anyone else listening to blackark right now? Some gooooooooood music being served up. Thanks again to whoever posted that site!

i agree with pez, sex and weed can help. i've imbibed in both in the last 24 hrs. and i'm way loose today. that baja shot.....i'll be on that wave in 26 days....not that it won't be pumping up here.

OB: now it's looking like sloppy seconds of yesterday - same size, bit more wind, cruunchy on the inside and mushy OH bombs here and there on the outside. Until recently a very small crew were chasing down a few beasties. Lotsa whitewater. Sun/fog, and suprise! Onshores.

Great write-up e. Style...geez...closest thing I can honestly think of is Bruce's flying board pic up above. "Sea Clown." heh

ya nice one e..

awesome quiver dano those channels are sick!..sweet airbrush too, and the windows? high tech.

i alwayse actually feel more amped all day till about 6 pm when i get out in the morning.

that fletcher shot must be the same place where they filmed that lost video.. bbr you sneaky bastard

that is really shitty that jason boggle died..

and bruce ill say klooless?

also kaiser whats the password to check out that photo?

for all you carve board guys out there...

local surfer matt moore

traut, you were in NYC and didn't call me?

you missed all time montauk on sunday.....best in years.

Tony Rice is my favorite picker...

Cool photo essay...

http://www.poyi.org/60/wua/0301.php

http://www.abcnews.go.com/wire/US/ap20040930_392.html

60 year old rides an 6'-10" pretty impressive even without the whale.

Second story of the day from the museum of the hard to believe.

Dude! Surfer catches whale of a ride -- CNN
"SAN CLEMENTE, California (AP) -- A surfer says the swell he was riding on a recent trip turned out to be more than just a wave -- it was a whale."

Not me in that pic---I like the levitating board trick, though.

I didn't like the look of OB this morning and punted. Dagrummit.

back to the daily circle jerk!

I found the solution to that oft-challlenging OB paddle. For just $395 you can have your own 65lb 11-foot tanker. It even paddles for you at 10MPH.

Jet Board !

Blakestah did the right thing.

oh no, lets talk about what a hardcore local you are no name!

bruce - sharkbait in the pic?

post lunch.....STUFFED....can never help myself around mexican food, just gotta gorge....naptime!

good advice, pez. funny stuff. i agree with 3to5 about la hierba... pre-session sessions mellow me out... make me a little less abrupt / nervous in the water... more flowy. more fun too? sometimes! on the other hand, i think surfing helps improve sex, i don't know about the other way around. it's taught me how to be, as they say in espana, SUAVE. no jerky kooky snapping, just steady rhythm, feel the wave, ride it. ;) it's all about carrying your weight in your hips... the 'menage' of Dancing, Surfing, and Sex is the real deal.

traut, bro, NYC was ALL-TIME yesterday. well very good anyway. I've never seen more beautiful waves go unsurfed than when I pulled up to the (nasty, brown/grey city) water at Long Beach, NY, and saw solid chest+ swell being groomed by the stiff 20 knot North winds, wrapping around dozens of wave-guiding jetties, with not a SINGLE other person on the beach! A 10 out of 10 for quality of conditions when not knowing what to expect beforehand. Adjectives of the day: Bowling, peaking, peeling, barreling. Stacked, roping sets of walled warm-water wicked wild fun. Unfortunately, I also have to include HUNGOVER as an adjective of the day... I found amazing surf, and couldn't surf for shiiiite cause my belly was full of the previous night's liquor. For Shame. I was an inch away from yakking in the water, with the whole vanquished soul / empty bone ache in my body... But even though I couldn't surf, for sheer wave visualization & beauty, it was a sweet time to swim in the ocean, even NYC's ocean.

J, I hit up Chilis. Feelin ya brother.....

Anyone been out near the ocean in the last few hours?

ya that blackart is going off..

nice report to start it off too b-stah

sounds nice jake

VERY cool photo essay Mexi. Crazy that some peoples' lives are like that. Makes all this petty shit talking on this board the last couple of days meaningless.

The images go very, very nice with sounds and the lyrics of Tosh's The Toughest 7" that was spinnin' on blackark.

has anyone seen State of S yet? any clue when it's coming up North?

i caught the tail end of =State of S= in san diego at cassius king gallery. looked very cool / stony / slow / lo-tech. i saw just a touch of the greenough footage, most of the curren, and a bit of fanning. don't know when it will be up north.

Wait a second here. Back to the whale story.
A 60 year old man riding a 6'10"?
SoCal is a nutty place indeed...

whats state of s?

I don't know what state of s is but I know what the state of G is....

HOOF HEARTED??

EYE PHARTED!!

State of S is a documentary surf film that unveils a first-person perspective of the forces, ideas and environments that serve as a catalyst in bringing about radical changes in surfing. Beginning with the short board revolution of the 60's the film spans over 30 years of George Greenough's incredible impact on surfing worldwide. Featuring interviews and exclusive footage of George Greenough, Tom Curren, and Mick Fanning. Also featuring Nat Young, Bob McTavish, Dick Brewer, Mike Hynson, Ian Cairns, Peter Townend, Matt Moore, Brad Gerlach, Darren Handley, Joel Parkinson and Dean Morrison. Soundtrack includes tracks by Pearl Jam, Robert Owen and Inure. Original Score by Fernie Apodaca, Todd Hannigan and Chad Farran, whose previous efforts found their way into 'Shelter' and 'Thicker Than Water'.
http://www.stateofs.com

HB,
I need to try that combo

HB,
I need to try that combo, and good point

Blackarc help:

I can't get blackarc to work. When I click onto the broadband link realplayer opens up and begins playing the songs saved on my computer. Any suggestions? I could use some reggae cubicle relief.

dream day:
friday off of work. Lady-friend also taking it off and asleep in the bed. kinda stormy out, sunshine mixed with rain showers. SE wind. Wake up at the butt-crack and jog down to OB for a sesh. Meet friends and marvel at the offshore-licked headhigh medium period groundswell loping in. Mixed with a mellow long-period south swell from new zealand. tons of waves and A-frames all over the joint. Wild, energetic feeling in the air from the storm. Glassy barrels breaking on the inside bars. Not much of a paddle out. Not crowded because it's cloudy everywhere except the beach. Paddle out and immediately turn and drop into a throaty beast. Get shacked. Come and and power a top turn while friends hoot while they paddle out. Everyone starts getting sick rides. Great session. 30 rides for each. Come in after two hours. Stroll home.. Wake up the lady and cook a fat breakfast. Smoothie, bagels. Do the crossword together and then make love. Nap. Lady takes off for the afternoon. Bass-playing buddy comes over and we take bong rips. Jam for about an hour or two. Get techy with the tunes. Winds are still offshore. Find out a friend is in town and wants to surf. He comes over and smokes me out with the chronic from British Columbia. We cruise back out to the beach and have a repeat of session one, except we're all stony so we're going for wacky shit. I get the best barrel of my life and my friend does a giant air and lands it. Huge session. A few whales come close and breach near us. Gnarly-looking black mass of storm clouds building on the horizon. We see bolts of lightning pulse down into the water. The swell is getting larger and barrels are grinding and going crazy. It starts to get serious out there. We each drop some huge bombs at the end of the session and then come in just as it starts to downpour. Run back to my place. shower. get some beers. Lady-friend comes back over with some friends. More of my friends come over. Impromptu party at my place. People bring instruments and food. Jam back at the house. People partying and getting kinda sloshy as the rain beats down on the skylights. Light a fire and tell stories as everyone chills into the latenight. Fall asleep while snugglin' by the fire. Wake up and repeat on saturday!

kaiser, that pic of you in your new wetsuit you sent me is disturbing!!!! unsubscribe.

Bruce photo guess
It's LHMVAG

hey traut, not sure what you're looking for but check this ad -- http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/roo/43816477.html

tucker, go to the file menu in realplayer and choose open, then copy and paste the url below and click ok


http://www.blackark.com:8080/listen.pls

Blackark, jes mon

Fucking J! That was some seriously funny shit right there. Laughing....

I owe you one sucka face.

E, sounds like you are taking tomorrow off eh?

e, sweet day!
kaiser, show me picks of your rack......
tomstah, many thanks.

the rest of you niceness peeps, here's what i learned today from Stretch, about the difference in a custom epoxy vs. custom polyester:
A 7' epoxy shortboard will weigh 3lbs less then a identical polyester board. that 3lbs translates into 30lbs of more floatation. which you can use to float ya or go shorter and thinner than normal. unlike the popouts, ding repair is simply done with UV epoxy, BUT youse got to seal it quick as the foam absorbs water much faster then standard foam. It's about $50 more for epoxy.

nirvana box set coming nov. 23rd!! whoooooo!!!

j, livin in the past.

j, your not alone in your stoke.

3to5 that's some good info. I'm think about something other than polyester for the next board. I would definitely like to go shorter yet maintain the flotation. good info!

I had a long conversation with Greg Loehr about UV curing epoxies. His take was that it is a really bad epoxy (adhesion-wise) developed only to be used in UV bays of lights in glass shops that mainly do polyester resin.

Greg, of course, has his own epoxy that he developed, Resin Research epoxy, which is sorta like super-epoxy with respect to ultra low toxicity and good adhesion, and can be used in far more laminates than the UV stuff. You can use the RR epoxy on carbon fiber, styrofoam based cores, and decals in the laminate, which the UV lacks adequate adhesion for. FWIW.

Also, a standard board with epoxy that would take 1.25 gallons of polyester resin would use about 0.6-0.7 gallons of epoxy resin - using twice as much glass. Therein lies your weight difference - less resin to lam more glass.

Industry opposition to epoxy has come mainly from glass shops, because epoxy, even the UV epoxy, doesn't set as fast as the polyester resin, and is tougher to grind/sand.

Also, 1.25 gallons polyester resin is about $32 at Fiberglass Hawaii - 0.7 gallons of RR epoxy is about $40.

Also, Loehr developed an epoxy surfacing agent to make his epoxies easier to sand and hotcoat boards.

Also, epoxies just do not gloss like polyester gloss coat. So, if you want a real purty board, you'll need to work out a good glossing solution.

3to5 You really think there is an "ideal" board for that lineup? I like to show up with a couple-three and make the call in the lot. Inner bar, outer bar, tweener, steep, mushy, hollow, BIG. I still don't have an ideal board, but I know where I'm heading on my next one, and it's right where you were talking - 7'0" - 7'2".

Hey dawn patrol - always helps me get through the bs of the day to day. It's great if you get enough to bounce out of bed in the predawn. On the other hand, if I'm so tired I'm thumping into the dresser in the dark, my balance ain't going to be so great in the lineup. Usually you can catch up that night. Staying up late, getting up early, and working out hard isn't something I can sustain. Course, a Giant's game (season) has to be heard to the end. Manana

I asked for RR epoxy on my Vernor board but he was dead set against it. He told me that boards made with epoxy are too stiff and tend to snap. I wasn't happy, but I wanted a Vernor so I went with it. Maybe When I get my RFS v2 from Blakestah I'll go with the epoxy.

Epoxy is twice as stiff as polyester resin if you use the same amount of resin and glass. But you never do. Generally with epoxy you use more glass and less resin.

Check back, though, I'm getting a gun done with the RR epoxy (I have the epoxy already, waiting for the V2 finbox). I've been doing fin layups, and grinding out fins, with the RR epoxy. With respect to working at home/in my garage, I hope I never use polyester again. The RR epoxy doesn't smell at all and has very low toxicity and NO noxious vapors. It grinds nicely, doesn't stink, and makes a lam twice as stiff. It lams carbon fiber 10 times as stiff (which is nice if you want thin but stiff fins).

Until Loehr's surfacing agent, you couldn't do a good hotcoat with epoxy, which was a royal pain. You had to rough up the epoxy and hotcoat with polyester, kinda ruining the effect. And, epoxy is a pain to grind/sand without the additive. But that new additive, Additive F, changes all that.

RR epoxy is not UV curing, so glass shops don't like it. They'd rather use a substantially inferior epoxy (but good enough for glass and polyurethane boards) that cures under their lights.

Schultze is going to use the RR epoxy b/c I am doing all the leg work and getting the resin, and he is kinda curious about the new epoxy (and he's lammed boards with other epoxies a buncha times).

Anyway, I should know something in another 2-3 weeks. Unfortunately it looks like a gun will be necessary next Thursday or Friday.

full gallery here

location: find it yourself





-
location: town




my stomping grounds...

peace, stay high, and good waves to all...
buy my photographs.

Yo, just read that Jason Bogle made it to the other side...rest in peace amigo... Big ups to J for finally gettin the Donovan CD's out to those who were waiting for them...yes the D-man is still the glam one. Winter is a comin.

Haiku of the day.

Crisp morning starry dawn
The litoral transition
Carving my canvas

blakestah, the reference to uv epoxy was only for ding repair. i can't speak anything about Stretch's materials or process. I trust the craftsman to deliver on there promise when I place the order. I'm focussed on the end result and Stretch said his team riders boards are lasting 3 months. Back in my bro/ho days, that's about twice as long as the poly boards where lasting the teamriders then. it's good enough for me. you are without a doubt, the smartest guy on the blog.

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