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Blowy and junky. Surfable.

Ehh.. not the most scrumptious of conditions this morning. Chilly, breezy, wet, misty, foggy, rainy, grey, foreboding. CJ and I woke up and said “What the heck, let’s do this.” We suited up in the yard and marched down to the beach for a kamikaze pre-work surf excursion. No signs of the new swell as of 7:30. Chest-high, rapid-fire short-period windswell was on tap. The fog rolled in last night, bringing the onshores with it. The sea-surface wasn’t too happy about that. BUT!! There were a few waves available for the stout of heart. I only surfed for a about 40 minutes and managed 5 or 6 trips down the line. Might be fun on the log this morning with the combo of spineless windswell and higher tide.

But.. in more inspiring news. The buoys are jumpin’ to the NW of us. The Oregon Buoy is 13.5ft 14seconds. The California buoy is already up to 12ft 14seconds. It’s coommmmiinnnngg! However, with the higher tide all day there won’t be many places to hide tomorrow. I’d say it’s doubtful whether OB will be very surfable. This morning proved really junky and choppy. If you combine that with a powerful NW groundswell, it doesn’t look too good. Soo.. I’m not really sure about where to surf tomorrow dawn patrol? A true conundrum I tellz ya. If you can get down to our neighbor city 90 minutes to the south, you might score dredging glassy groundswell dungeons at certain locales. And by that I mean deep pits. Gnarly, whoa-daddy, spitting, funneling cones. Hmmmm…

Shout out to Kus in Jersey! Whattup dogg? You around the week and weekend before thanksgiving?

anyone have any good barrel stories?

wipeout stories?

romantic encounters?

lineup altercations?

celebrity sightings?

some good barrel videos and shit here

a few stylish photos from Patrick Trevz

Barney... the life of a pro surfer/artist
casting


Hawaii

a few shots from sunset
niceness

niceness

woke up excited to get a hint of some new stuff.

nothing.

? for you achive.org heads, which way do you use to download? P2P? download? hi-fi? lo-fi?

thanks!

hope you guys got a little something this morn

Posted by: Hb at October 7, 2004 10:03 AM

To download from archive org I usually do the VBR mp3 downloads. If that isn't available it's usually an .shn file and you can get an shn > mp3 converter somewhere online. Winamp may play shn's too, not sure though.

Posted by: kookdom at October 7, 2004 10:18 AM

Posted by: j at October 7, 2004 10:21 AM

Posted by: more j at October 7, 2004 10:22 AM

The SF buoy is starting to jump. I'm gonna try to get a taste of it now before it's too rich for my blood.

Posted by: klooless at October 7, 2004 10:24 AM

Tom Curren & band will be performing in Santa Cruz October 21st during the Coldwater Classic
at the crows nest. Just hope he wins the contest while he is in town.

Posted by: groupie at October 7, 2004 10:27 AM

Tom Curren & band will be performing in Santa Cruz October 21st during the Coldwater Classic
at the crows nest. Just hope he wins the contest while he is in town. Check the oneill website for the contest/entertainment schedule. Or maybe one of you IT gurus can just post it here on the blog.

Posted by: groupie at October 7, 2004 10:28 AM

The smell is in the air.

E, whatcha doing Sat. morning?

Posted by: Kaiser at October 7, 2004 10:47 AM

How thin are the tails of these boards?

Posted by: Kaiser at October 7, 2004 10:59 AM

very thin

Posted by: j at October 7, 2004 11:10 AM

they should just not bother using foam for boards that thin

Posted by: anorexia at October 7, 2004 11:11 AM

from the nytimes

Of all the shortsighted policies of President Bush and Vice President Dick Cheney, none have been worse than their opposition to energy conservation and a gasoline tax. If we had imposed a new gasoline tax after 9/11, demand would have been dampened and gas today would probably still be $2 a gallon. But instead of the extra dollar going to Saudi Arabia - where it ends up with mullahs who build madrasas that preach intolerance - that dollar would have gone to our own Treasury to pay down our own deficit and finance our own schools. In fact, the Bush energy policy should be called No Mullah Left Behind.

Our own No Child Left Behind program has not been fully financed because the tax revenue is not there. But thanks to the Bush-Cheney energy policy, No Mullah Left Behind has been fully financed and is now the gift that keeps on giving: terrorism.

Mr. Bush says we're in "a global war on terrorism.'' That's right. But that war is rooted in the Arab-Muslim world. That means there is no war on terrorism that doesn't involve helping this region onto a more promising path for its huge population of young people - too many of whom are unemployed or unemployable because their oil-rich regimes are resistant to change and their religious leaders are resisting modernity.

A former Kuwaiti information minister, Sad bin Tefla, wrote an article in a London Arabic daily, Al Sharq Al Awsat, last Sept. 11 entitled "We Are All Bin Laden.'' He asked why Muslim scholars and clerics had eagerly supported fatwas condemning Salman Rushdie to death after he wrote a novel deemed insulting to Islam, "The Satanic Verses,'' but to this day no Muslim cleric has issued a fatwa condemning Osama bin Laden for murdering nearly 3,000 innocent civilians, badly damaging Islam.

Building a decent Iraq is necessary to help reverse such trends, but it is not sufficient. We need a much more comprehensive approach, particularly if we fail in Iraq. The Bush team does not offer one. It has treated the Arab-Israeli issue with benign neglect, failed to find any way to communicate with the Arab world and adopted an energy policy that is supporting the worst Arab oil regimes and the worst trends. Phil Verleger, one of the nation's top energy consultants and a longtime advocate of a gas tax, puts it succinctly: "U.S. energy policy today is in support of terrorism - not the war on terrorism."

We need to dramatically cut our consumption of oil and bring the price back down to $20 a barrel. Nothing would do more to stimulate reform in the Arab-Muslim world. Oil regimes do not have to modernize or govern well. They just buy off their people and their mullahs. Governments without oil have to reform to create jobs. People do not change when you tell them they should - they change when they tell themselves they must.

The Arab-Muslim world is in a must-change human development crisis, "but oil is like a narcotic that kills a lot of the pain for them and prevents real change,'' says David Rothkopf, a visiting scholar at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace.

Where is all the innovation in the Arab world today? In the places with little or no oil: Bahrain is working on labor reform, just signed a free-trade agreement with the U.S. and held the first elections in the Arab gulf, allowing women to run and vote. Dubai has made itself into a regional service center. And Jordan has a free-trade agreement with the U.S. and is trying to transform itself into a knowledge economy. Who is paralyzed or rolling back reforms? Saudi Arabia, Syria and Iran, all now awash in oil money.

When did Jordan begin privatizing and deregulating its economy and upgrading its education system? In 1989 - after oil prices had slumped and the Arab oil states cut off Jordan's subsidies. In 1999, before Jordan signed its U.S. free-trade accord, its exports to America totaled $13 million. This year, Jordan will export over $1 billion worth of goods to the U.S. In the wake of King Abdullah II's reforms, Jordan's economy is growing at an annual rate of over 7 percent, the government is installing computers and broadband Internet links in every school, and it will soon require anyone who wants to study Islamic law and become a mosque preacher to first get a B.A. in something else, so mosque leaders won't just come from those who can't do anything else. "We had to go through a crisis to accept the need for reform," says Jordan's planning minister, Bassem Awadallah.

We have the power right now to stimulate similar trends across the Arab world. It's the best way to fight a global war on terrorism. If only we had a president and vice president tough enough to fight this war.

Posted by: thomas friedman at October 7, 2004 11:17 AM

HIGHNESS:
11am:

BEACH HAS CLEANED UP - GLASSY 3FT.
BEST PEAK IS YOUR PEAK. ALL LINED UP - GET ON IT
FRESNO!!!!!!!!!! WORTH THE TRIP OAKLAND. MAKE THE WAVE PACIFICA!

Barney is arguably the most gifted visual artist of our times beside Trefz' stunning black and white angles and moods.

Who cares how Barney ACTS when he surfs. I want to be him who is you wishing he was me.
Oopsie - Curren is ringing the bell gotta go let him in - we're surfing together here in Frisco today - soon we will be high as hell and dumb as rocks - stoned out of our minds on killer green buds we collected from the hills around Rincon.
Look for us after low tide at VF's today. We're both going to test out the new quick release fizzle fin ala the Master Rider Dave Blake, who in his own right, is quickly earning a solid reputation as the one and only true O.B. hellman! You freaking rip DUDE! Not.

Manana taco we're headed to the sCrud for the weekend transgig. I leave for Hawaii on tuesday and he follows on thursday. We're gay.
In my dream last night I surfed this beach alone - I was the first one to surf big O.B. back in '54.
My first wipeout was in bed.
My frist girlfriend was Belinda Carlisle.
It is not an idle "hate" I espouse. I am defending the realm as it existed before and as it grows to overcome your static and transplanted realies.
Nuff said - rock on NICENESS.
OVER AND OUTA HERE.

THE MAN

Posted by: Claude Van Morgan at October 7, 2004 11:22 AM

OB tomorrow?

Posted by: e at October 7, 2004 11:32 AM

Bob, you're cute when you get worked up.

Posted by: blakestah at October 7, 2004 11:33 AM

As promised, link to extra cheesy home video from Sunday. Pretty big file, not sure I'd try it with dial-up. Click here. If the link doesn't work, there's another on the SH home page.

Posted by: Lizard at October 7, 2004 11:45 AM

rad vid lizard, really makes me miss the left coast. we had some decent waves last weekend but it's been flat since. eating dinner with the joneses tonight.

Posted by: gvibe at October 7, 2004 11:51 AM

Geez the Lane is a sick wave.

Posted by: sutro at October 7, 2004 12:02 PM

Is that Klooless I see sitting outside (in the Surfpulse Cam)?

Posted by: steve-o at October 7, 2004 12:08 PM

looks very fun, thanx for the video.

nice one

Posted by: bagel at October 7, 2004 12:09 PM

Bruce, NICE WORK AMIGO! Now I have two lens' I need to avoid... That was pretty sweet.

Posted by: Kaiser at October 7, 2004 12:11 PM

cool vid (was better once i turned the volume off, heh heh), damn i need to get my cam fixed.

Posted by: j at October 7, 2004 12:27 PM

Waves blew donkey balls. but you have to give to take.I know there's a lot of weed smokers here, so you guys will probably enjoy this. Take a nerdy girl to go see it, it's a guarantee play maker. I saw it last night.

http://www.whatthebleep.com/

Posted by: Ian at October 7, 2004 12:35 PM

Thanks, Kaiserstah. So glad I bought that digital camcorder for my wife's birthday-- HA! But I'm afraid to go south this weekend. Ken's ego will be so big there will be no place to park. (Remember him spotting sets for us that day?) Hope the Mackatosis Conditions hold. I'll cower at Cowards or Cators and then shoot "organic" photos. Call me if you. . . bring that new age hippie along!

Posted by: Goose at October 7, 2004 12:36 PM

dig the vid Lizard. I like that really friendly-lookin' lab puppy too. that dog is super cute. It's cool to see regular folks surf good waves in a video.

enlightening.

yeah.. hopefully it won't be full-on Santa Crowded all weekend..

Posted by: e at October 7, 2004 12:42 PM

bvb sounded almost upbeat in his post this morning... except for joshin' blakestah he was all smiles and grins. Must be some good ganja flowing around these parts.. hmmm.. A friend of mine actually did puff with Curren and then watched as Curren jammed with some others. That would be fun as hell!

I like Curren's music in Litmus.. all electric, surreal and trippy, much more than his acoustic stuff.. although he actually has a really nice voice.

go curren

Posted by: e at October 7, 2004 12:46 PM

i did have a funny encounter recently......... i'm native and grew up in sc, i've got my entitlement issues along the coast from here to there. i drive a car that suggests i'm a total kook (not a SUV or tough guy truck) and i pull in to a praticular turnout. the guy suiting up looks right at me and mouths FUCK. so i'm thinking whatever bro, ya i don't live in town anymore bfd, i'm over 40 and have little time for the vibe. "goodmorning" NOTHING but vibe back.

i suit up and within moments in the line-up next to him. the 2 dudes that where out paddled down the beach. it's me and mr vibe. i hoot him on his waves. nothing back. when the sets approach we paddle battle and kinda screw each other but no real interference. finally we take off on the same wave. i'm up first, he's a half man(opps i mean kneeboarder) so it's hard to tell when he's up, but i kick out. he paddles back out and i apologize, he kinda grunts "no problem." finally a break in the vibe. so i say "your native?" "yes." i ask some details and when i tell him my last name he asks "is 2to4setsof7 your little sister?" "yup" "dude i hooked up with her years ago." suddenly, the vibe melts and niceness prevails we start giving waves, groovy. 2to4, always a team player, it had been some years since her youthful promiscuity had helped me level the vibe in the water. thanks sis.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 7, 2004 12:59 PM

now that's what i call taking one for the team. props to your sis.

Posted by: jdz at October 7, 2004 01:10 PM

No, I wouldn't have been on the cam. Sharkbait and I paddled out before 11, and before long the first fat bumps came along. Not very windy at the beach, but the waves were pretty inconsistent, mushing at the top before really breaking, breaking a little outside, a little inside, and stuff like that. Still, there were some fun ones if you were in the right place. I got a few quick nothings, one good left and missed several by not quite being able to get into the wave.

Posted by: klooless at October 7, 2004 01:33 PM

4to6setsof7 wouldn't like hearin' that i'd imagine....

Posted by: Hb at October 7, 2004 01:33 PM

cool story 3to5

Posted by: e at October 7, 2004 01:35 PM

It's here! Manor started pumping about an hour ago and it's building fast. Longer period than I'd expected, but the surface is a bit ripply with the onshore. Shame about the fog too. Some big gaps between sets still, I guess it's sorting itself out.
Cubicle dwellers, check it when you can. I'd say looking for a little shelter would be worth the petrol unless you're a hell-man.

Posted by: NZ Swell at October 7, 2004 01:43 PM

Montara should be a mellow paddle then NZ? Cool im on it

Posted by: Hellboy at October 7, 2004 01:45 PM

Klooless, you forgot to mention the inside. The inside is REALLY FUN. The beast is slowly awakening.

Afflicted with where-do-I-sit-itis and really didn't catch anything. Sooo close to a great ride [ for me ] but ended up mistiming and misplacing and jouncing along straight to the beach, before I finally stood up. Images of the cover of "Caught Inside" rang through my head while I headed back out and, um, frolicked in the soup. Back home and just demolished a pizza the size of a huge dinner plate. Oof.

Happy paddling! ;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 7, 2004 01:50 PM

sweet vid lizard. the older ws crew is sure to appreciate your coverage. doller is a trip eh.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at October 7, 2004 02:20 PM

I'm looking for elias's email so I can get a board shaped, anyone know the address? Wildcat sent me.

Posted by: macisaacin at October 7, 2004 02:30 PM

hey lizard...

can you do any versions of the movie
in quicktime as opposed to windows?

i have not been assimilated.


and re: audio.org stuff
VBR is best it allows the highest quality
without using all the bandwidth all the time.
these are mp3 quality and are tasty.

i did 4 vbr zip files yesterday and they all
sound dope. itunes also allows you to tweak
the mix and then burn a cd. as it refers to
above, this only applies to that 3% of us that
have not been assimilated.

Posted by: korewin at October 7, 2004 02:46 PM

Posted by: at October 7, 2004 02:51 PM

you can download WMP for mac. but i agree, quicktime drops bombs on WMP.

Posted by: bbr at October 7, 2004 02:56 PM

the tails on those boards are insane.
how many sessions at OB 1? .5? .25?
one duck dive?

sorta like the hummer of surfboards.
they ARE all from the same barrel of oil.
(paraphrased from parmenter)

and for the not naming gig....surfrider did OB
right. has anyone else gotten their surfrider
cards with membership? of all the inviting
photos—new york, florida, puerto rico....OB looks
like hell. lines lines lines of H20. cool!

Posted by: korewin at October 7, 2004 03:07 PM

its lumpily coming in, definitely woulda done better on an 8 footer, but the 6'6" wasn't bad. Nothing resembling top to bottom, though, its mushy bars...

Definitely a lot better than you'd guess from your desk, though, the wave size to bump ratio isn't half bad.

Posted by: blakestah at October 7, 2004 03:10 PM

Where's the best place to rent a board for teaching someone to surf in Santa Cruz? I recall renting those big blue foam POS from Norcal that bent in two as you rode the wave. Is Owell's-Cay crowded this time of year?

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 7, 2004 03:32 PM

have been low pro these past few days/week. trying to break the E's surf report soft addiction that i have aquired. hope to see a few of you at the crack tomorrow!

macisaacin, coming from the wildcat eh? well then. i guess we'll have to work something out. 'cause a friend of the wildcat is a friend of mine. hit me up at elias at themainframe dot net.


Posted by: elias at October 7, 2004 03:47 PM

Elias' email: elias at themainframe dot net

Give him a shout.

Posted by: Kaiser at October 7, 2004 03:50 PM

two words.. Suuu and rrffff!!

how about that Barney photo by Trevz! damn!

Posted by: e at October 7, 2004 03:53 PM

Andrew, didn't you live on 44th before?

Bruce, I might be making my way down your way on Sat. Thinking that might be the call. Of course, I typically pull up short but if I am close, I will roll in for sure. I like to go left, not right. But, good waves are good waves.

Posted by: Kaiser at October 7, 2004 03:55 PM

insert post-lunch siesta here....

Posted by: j at October 7, 2004 03:59 PM

I moved from 44th SF to 57th Oakland for a handful of reasons, late sunrise killing my pre-work surf being primary. Mostly, though, I just gotta ramble.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 7, 2004 04:03 PM

Posted by: jersey rules! at October 7, 2004 04:35 PM

Posted by: e at October 7, 2004 04:59 PM

Spent the morning at OB. Actually, surfed most of the beach, drifting along the south current. Weird windswell that would break hard one second, mush out and disappear the next. Definitely hard to read. The mist and wind didn't make it any more fun. I mostly just messed around, trying to see how steep I could turn on the drop or flopping around in the shore break, mostly eating it.

Since my 4/3 is being repaired, I used my 3/2. It was ok for the first hour but then got really cold. I have no idea how Van Dyke and Cole pulled it off.

A fire on the beach would have been nice. That's what we did as kids when we didn't have wetsuits or fins. Run into the water with your bodyboard, duck under a few waves, then jump into everything off the bottom. After 20 minutes, run back to the fire all pink and warm up again.

I expect VAS conditions tomorrow morning. Hope everyone has fun!

Posted by: Nate at October 7, 2004 05:34 PM

e, rock on with the rare longboardin' noserider! ;)

Posted by: cronk at October 7, 2004 06:00 PM

Waves on the ocean surface are caused by the wind. The wind pushes on the ocean surface, causing a perturbation of this surface. At first very small amplitude waves (0.1 cm to 1.0 cm) with a high frequency ( > 10 Hz) are formed. These are called capillary waves, and the surface tension of the water provides the restoring force for them. They have a phase speed of c = (2ps/ rl)1/2, where s is the surface tension (s = 0.074 N/m at 20C). These waves are the first waves to form, and allow larger waves (whose restoring force will be gravity) to form. Therefore if it's harder to make these waves, it's harder to make other waves. Reduction of the surface tension of water through the introduction of detergents or organic surfactants (such as oils) make it more difficult for capillary waves to form.

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