E's Surf Report

I charged on the 6'6", got three waves, I certainly woulda done better on an 8 footer, but glad I didn't take out the Mavs gun. Christian and Alex were on boards as short as mine and didn't seem to have difficulties though...go figure. Mr Doof and Friend #1 were out and snagged their share.

A good outer bar warmup, it was larger, but not off the hook, and winds weren't much of a factor.

kdalle was shooting video.

Somehow BVB was no place in sight. Go figure.

it's friiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiday!!!

weekend plans include: sleep, sleep, college football, sleep

much respect to those who hit the drink this morn'. my arm is still numb from the wakeboard wipeout two weeks ago, anything bigger than small/glassy would kick my ass right now (well, would kick my ass even if i had feeling in the arm/hand!!)

bummed that i missed it. i woke up to realize that i had no car! no wasn't stolen, the girlfriend had it. so, no surf for me.

can anyone recommend a big day board for a guy my size (5'8 170lbs). i'm sick of surfing bigger days on my 6'8 thruster.

E-

You aint a puss. The pussies are the loud mouths who flap about the big stuff, crowds and such but wont paddle out on days like today and yesterday. They'll try and fail and then come in talking smack about the one big bomb the got.

I am exhasted from the paddle yesterday. A few mav's guys passed and one didnt make it out. Props if you surf Mavs but big OB is different. Took me 40 min to get out for 1/2 a wave. Glad I didnt quit on myself. Got denied at the outer bar like 3 times cursing my arse off, finally breaking to the outside by the time I was near funston.

The key is to never quit. Keep paddling and paddling. Never QUIT. Wish I was out there now, but I have satisfaction of joining Christian, Haley, ODD TODD and a few others at Sloat in surfing the first big wave sesh of the season last night. I am humbled cause it aint gonna get any easier.

I aint got nuttin against BVB its the other so called LOCALS who shout and scream but are no where to be seen when the beach gets 8-10ft. Thats why I gave them the stink eye last night as I suited up while they just watched.

Just dont stop!!! Never quit!!! God it feels good to talk shit and back it up:)

dawnie report from SM county, water cold, wave shapes erratic bouncing off that rock wall, charger with the black and blue hoodie suit was rippin some big drops , everybody and their mother including the kook friends seemed to be out making for crowded take offs, duck dove one biggie, came up with some guys long board on my head and our leashes intertwined ...no damage to the new board though ...got some sweet rights, a few lefts were working to...good to experience early season juice

Paddled out about 2 minutes after Blakestah, and 2 minutes before Friend #1.

Every time I nearly made it out, I would get nailed and pushed back inside.

When I finally looked up, I was by the cliffs at the 2nd Sloat lot.

Rode in on my belly. Walked to where I started, mubling cartoon curse words in frustration at my lame paddling skills.

Saw a few other people getting denied, and then I paddled out again.

Again I was nearly out when I got hit by a set and pushed inside.

Grackle, frackle, grikle, bickle, shickle, gazickle.

Shoulders burning, I pushed again and snuck out.

Looked behind me and saw I was at the treatment plant.

Aimed my board north and started paddling.

Fell on the first wave.

Ugly drop on the second leading to short ride on the second wave.

Easy drop on the third wave on the big set that made it all worthwhile.

lerm, a day like today would be fine on something like a 7'6" to 8 foot for someone like you (by my best reckoning).

But when the swell is a few feet larger and/or the offshores start howling, I like an 8'6". Where is that wrybread character anyway...

e, Thanks for posting me as your archival spotlight post.

YAY, swell!
7'0" SF stick ready after cobwebs/dust are cleaned off; I'll see all ye true OB lovers in the water this weekend pau hana....

Sunday looks promising for offshores.

ups, MONKEY MILK

What happened to all the crowds we were beyotching about? I went out yesterday afternoon, caught a few nice waves on the 6'6" but felt a little undergunned. A guy near me on what looked like 7.5' - 8' was snagging many more rides. I got a 6'10" in mid-repair that would have been better, I have used it up to 15'. Might spring for a gun this year but I just bought the new shortboard this summer.

Good gun dimensions for 5'11" 190? I'm thinking 7'10", pintail, not sure how wide they run. Anybody?

e - way to use that power of positive thinking! jk- it is too hard to have a good session on days like this if you are time constrained.

Double overhead.

8-9 ft faces.

Which of you guys is less than 4 and a half feet tall?

My 8'6" is an inch wider than my 6'6", which is reasonably standard. It runs about 19.5" wide, and for something close to 8 foot, most guns are 19.5 wide to 20.

Met Doof at Rockaway, it looks like crap. We check Lindamar from the cliff and the first wave we see is ridable so Doof says let's go. I want to see a set so we watch 20 more waves come in and one is ridable.

I had looked at the beach in the Dark, and it didn't look too bad, so we drove back. Got there as the first takers were paddling out a little before 7:00.

Decide to go for it even though I don't have my gun with me since we were thinking pacifica. Of course my regular board is a 7'6" bonzer. (Lerm, I am 5'9" and weigh 190). I figure it will make for a good practice session.

About ten duckdives, and I make it out without too much worry. Kind of surprizing that. Appearently Doof got swept to the cliffs and walked back to the lot, then got swept down again and finally made it out after about an hour.

First wave, I waited too long to paddle and ended up bailing off the board. Second wave, I got pitched by some chop as I got up and slid down the face on my back. I thought, "gee I am really sliding for a while here, oh shit is that my board under me, fuck!"

Luckily no problem once I stopped sliding. Then I got into a couple fun ones. Looked around and realized these waves were pretty mellow really. Not the greatest shape, but fun if you got in.

I ended up getting 5 solid rides and felt good about my surfing as far as catching the waves. Not so much about my riding as the chop was making things difficult plus my timing has not adjusted to the size yet.

There were a lot of people out. Waves were a bit hard to gauge so a lot of people were not catching much. The better surfers were.

thanks db!

also, wave faces, well, kdalle has video. There may've been the rare double overhead wave, but that would be stretching it. Mostly close to 10 foot faces, AFAICT. But prolly we'll see some video.

Pez, you da man! Great roundup there and a lot of truth to what you say. I must have been watching you out in the soup that was last night from 6:00 onward. Last nights juice was much bigger then today for sure. The paddle also looked 2x worse then this morning for sure. Good on you guys for getting out there last night.

As for today, I too sat unsettled in the lot with E. The counter just kept going and my window was closing. Given all the factors: ocean cleaning up, new (used) 7'10'' I have never paddled, fog lifting, rides happening, etc., I finally pulled the trigger. Soooooooo glad I did. Paddle out was not as bad as expected. I only had 45 mins once I decided to go.

Stats don't matter on this one, I am just super stoked I got the first one out of the way! E, I think your comments helped! Good to see many a smiling face in the lot! I know some of those guys that make it a point to be out on days like today were happy to see the sauce again. Thanks to them as well for indirectly given encouragement to those of us like me that are merely looking to stretch our own boundries a bit. To me, that is what days like today are all about. Good to bust the rust off....

I love the 7'10''.....

Sounds like the surf season is here, just what my 7'4" has been waiting for. I'll see later if I got the sack for the paddle.

looked kinda fun out there, a bit fat and sloppy but i saw a few nugs. shoulda paddled out immediately but instead spent 45 minutes watching the waves (blue board was definitely doing the best), listening to howard, and trying to figure where all the coolant is leaking from my truck. spotted e on my way out of the lot. might hit it after work.

I got some vid this a.m. and will post it asap. Lots of shots of guys paddling and failing to get in. There was a little morning sickness but was cleaner and a bit smaller by the time I left at 9:00.

Good on you Kaiser for going bigger. You'll never look back and be on an 8' 6" by next season.

Tough to be standing on land watching today but I should be back by next week. E, interesting that you chose today to post my sig line. Damn!

E, we've all been there. IMO, the more you watch the less likely you are to go. There will be other days. Go for the bigger board. Unless I'm wrong, Kaiser will confirm that the added confidence in your equipment makes a big difference.

funny session recap e

thats definately a northwest swell le cove looked doable and maybe fun we need offshores and i need a jet ski

GO BEARS!!!

Kaiser-

Thanks for having my back bragh. Stoked for you that you have a 7'10. Good decision as you'll definitely use it a lot more than you initially think. Its fun paddling a big board eh? Glad you made it out today.

The waves really werent that worth it last night but just like today it was cool to see the smiles and familiar faces of the people who I consider local. It's also humbling to hear of great surfers like Christian tale of his battle to get out as well as ODD TODD. Funniest thing was that there was this one ripper who made it out with like 3 duck dives. Part luck and part commitment.

BBR-
There were three boggie boarders out last night and they got some bombs. Any surfer who doesnt respect the foamie frogs dont get mine!

If anyone does see BVB remind him of bagels and weed.

i think bvb went to santa cruz

Paddled out w/ Christian this morning -- he on a 6'10", I on my 6'8" pin. Wasn't really big enough to warrant my 7'3" or anything larger. Had no problem catching em. Got about 8-10 waves, 2-3 of which lined up nicely all the way to the inside. Fun stuff! Lots were slow and fat with just a nice drop, but the ones the lined up were fun. I'd call it 6-8'. Alex said it would be called 3-4' or 3-5' Hawaiian scale. Looks like it'll be coming down throughout the day, but then getting serious tomorrow -- bigger than last night.

You gotta get out there e! How do you expect to improve in larger stuff? Today was a perfect marginally big day. I think you'll find that you can handle more than you think, and pretty soon you'll get more at ease in larger stuff. At the very least, you'll get a good paddle workout and duck-dive practice, which is never a bad thing. However, the right board for the job is a must. No fun being undergunned, especially for difficult paddle-outs. I'm going to be getting a new big wave board, as my current gun is a very thin and narrow 7'3". I'm thinking about something in the 7'6"-8'0" range, but a bit beefier than I'm used to for better paddling speed.

Steamer update:
surfed 2 hours this am...left at 9am and it was getting better/cleaner but also smaller. good surf mild crowd. the interesting tid bit was that the west side reefs were totally FLAT, a slight ankle slapper on occasion but worthless. Maybe the next swell with a more westerly angle would help, but i would say that a weekend run to SC will find you and about 1000 of your closest friends at the lane. because everywhere else was shit.

P.S. There were 2 times where I wimped out and didn't paddle at Black's when it was at size (12-15'+) and very clean but sketchy - only some of the waves were makeable, the rest you had to straighten out and take it like a man. Only 4 dudes out. To this day I still think about those days and kick myself every time. Why didn't I at least try? Maybe I wasn't ready. Maybe I would've had the session of my life. I'll never know. It's good to know your limits -- I know myself well enough to know I'll never paddle at Mav's. I don't want it bad enough. Despite that, I try to push myself whenever possible.

davo. who ever said i wanted to improve in the larger stuff??

i like my waves small and my surface glassy!

When it's big you won't see me around.

nice that you got so many rides.

Sorry in advance for too-long post.

9am: Rockaway looks familiarly unpromising: quick back-offs near the channel and bigger close-outs in the middle. No thanks. So I drove the beach, saw some pretty big stuff early on, and ended up at probably the worst place to catch NW swell. But it was clean and solid looking. Why was no one out? I watch two guys try to get out---half-heartedly, it seemed to me---and give up. Another guy kept trying, getting swept down-beach, and marching back to try again. Still, it didn't look ALL THAT evil to me, so I figured I'd try, get skunked a few times and call it a day. I suited up, ran in, did the "rail protector duck" a couple of times, then paddled like hell and . . . I was out. No, I couldn't really be out, so I'll keep paddling hard. A minute later I'm WAY out, way past any breaking waves. Still, I camp out there for a long time, still intimidated by the forcastss and the others having trouble. Then another guy is out, and another; they're embarassingly far closer to the beach than me, so I gingerly paddle in, and eventually miss a few waves in virtue of being still way too far out to catch them. The other guys are getting some fun looking waves, and you know, they don't look all that huge: a little over head high tops. So I suck it up and go for one, bury the nose---still, no problem getting back out. Hooray for 14 second periods or whatever. Next wave, same deal. Finally I grab a few; probably 4-6 footers, nice faces, fun rides, but kinda brief because they close out on me.

If you want fun, clean, medium-sized long-period waves with steep faces and little curls and stuff, they're out there too. Drive around.

Idiotically dropped my board in the lot and snapped the blasted nose (which was already 90% ding-repair material anyhow). Back to the mixing cup.

My new boss will probably spring me early and I'm headed south. If this thing holds I'm gonna shoot miles of tape and a zillion stills. Any of you studs head south and want an organic pic, holler. Kaisersuperman and the big E-asy have my #.

Cool e, didn't mean to ride you. If you're not into bigger stuff, cool. To each his own. But you did say you were interested in purchasing a 7'10". Whatcha gonna do, just stare at your new board when the waves come up? ;)

ha ha... yeah.. that's cool davo. i'm just feeling sorry for myself for not paddling out.. trying to justify it by saying that i "don't like" the big stuff.. I like dropping into big waves when the opportunity presents itself.. i guess i just shy away from all the hoopla and the duckdiving and the craziness. I have a tendency to psyche myself out when it's big. I'm a pansy among men.

papa buoy is 20ft 14seconds.

I'll be playing footbag the rest of the week.

And I'm probably trying to sound like an experienced pro to mask the times that I wimped out too!

Best 14 hours of my life in a long time....

driving up to Sb last evening listening to a Xavier Rudd concert courtesy of whoever told us about archive.org, so good, sun going down as i pass Rincon, see John Brown's Body, iiirrrie and rootsy, sleep for 3 hours, wake up at the crack, surf fun chest high+ waves somewhere in the ocean off of Ventura for several hours.

I have been cleansed.

Good for all of you that bombed OB , i would get worked.

Love Christian's recap of last night...

Hairy paddle, one wave and stoked! -the classic OB session!

christian is the man!

Davo - Here's my experience at big Blacks. I went to UCSD in the mid 70's (yes I am old), mainly because of the proximity to Blacks. One morning my buddy and I made it down there for the DP. Hard to say how big it was, because NO ONE was out, no one else was even there. They probably all had the sense to go to Windansea or something. But it was definitely rideable, if you could get out, surely 10'+ on the faces. So we went for it. After a long time, got ALMOST outside, when a big set came through, breaking just outside of me. I ditched my board and dove for the bottom. Got dragged for what seemed like forever, finally surfaced just in time to get a breath before the next wave detonates just outside of me. This one drags me just about as long as the first. I come up again just in time to get a breath and see the next wall of whitewater bearing down on me. I grab my board and let this one wash me completely in, I've never been so happy to see the sand. I literally crawled up the beach, puking. My buddy washed up too. We left.

So I don't think you missed anything.

fun session this morning - good to see christian and alex out there - so was davo the regular foot w/ hood sitting right by christian? got the wave of the day as far as i could see, a nice set wave from about 30' outside of everyone else (a left).

e i hear you - mornings like today are fun but i think my dream session is clean, shoulder to head high surf

I don't know if I got the wave of the day, but I was next to christian for some of the session, am a regularfoot and I was wearing my hood today. Not that it's very cold yet, but I have surfer's ear. Doc says the canal on my right (read northwest wind) ear is 90% closed. Really don't want that operation ordeal, so I wear both silicone and hood.

Anyone else out there dealing with this and/or has had to have the operation? I hear they do it with a laser now, so they don't have to slice your outer ear like they used to. Still, I think it's like 6-8 weeks minimum out of the water and hurts like a bitch.

howdy gents...long post: much stoke!

kaiser—i watched your wave from start to finish
and it looked pretty damn good. DEFINITELY think
you have made a good call with the length. your
grin after that wave said it all. nice work.

i putzed around and got in at 9.30a or so after a
bagel and another large cup of coffee. good stuff.
sun came out, mr. dolphin and some pals were
out. the paddle was not too bad just gotta go go
GO...ignore the burn and go GO! i rode my 6'8"
and am craving a bigger board.

e—exhale bubba. i was the same way.
i sat out there as a bomb went off 15ft in front of
me and said to myself "what in the fark am i doing?"
you schooled me on that skate session.
if you can do skate like that, you can ride them waves.

next set i spun and just went and had the
most amazing ride. also sat on a shoulder and
watched mr. martins take off late late late, make the
drop and crack one at the top. inspiring.
it is amazing to see guys SURF big waves as
opposed to just riding them. and i am speaking
of myself.

I'm selling a 9'1" HydroEpic Carbon Fiber Longboard if anyone is interested. See;
http://www.surfpulse.com/cgi-bin/eclassifieds/classifieds.cgi?search_and_display_db_button=on&db_id=1274&query=retrieval

con, the thing I miss most about SD is Blacks. I went to UCSD in the early 90s, and I surfed there practically every day for 5 years. Yes, it's absurdly crowded now. I still love it. It can be so perfect. Small and perfect. Big and perfect. Lefts. Rights. Big walls. Barrels. you name it. Damn, I miss that wave. And no 3 to 5 -- this post is not going to make it more crowded than it already is.

out to check the airshow practice. beat the weekend crowds. marina green 3pm. bummed that the blue angels arent here this year. guess we got to settle with the maple leafs.

.jake

http://www.craigslist.org/sby/spo/44934002.html

kdalle, insert link for video here _______

not the maple leafs, the snowbirds:

http://fleetweek.us/fleetweek

nice gif!

how shitty is it being surfed out, starving, and thirsty on a super hot day at blacks and having to walk up the cliff..oy..but than water tastes like kool aid

QUESTION: Are you better off than you were 4 years ago?

if you didn't get it before 11am, then don't worry cuz thick fog rolled in and you couldn't see anything. i must have seen kdalle filming in the lot as i pulled up. saw christen catch a nice wave. never made it to the kodak courage peak as i was pulled way south on my paddle out. caught a few freight trains but hesitated a bit too much on others. definitely need a few more days like this (big and clean) to get in the comfort zone. california uber alles.

And always wear the Happy Face!

Wax up your guns, boys.

Just for reference please. How does the surf today compare to last Thanksgiving? Does anyone remember that day? Danke.

No slurf for me, but what a show. Got mesmerized when the fog lifted and watched wave after wave, probably some of you peeps out there. Can't believe the level of talent/ hellriding around here.

Somebody asked me if I was paddling out and I laughed. I wish. But just got a pair of fins so I'm stoked to muck about the cauldron when it's too ridiculous to surf and too crimped for time to drive. Hoorah.

Congrats on those great rides today! Looked fun.

last thanksgiving was one of the best days i've had here. offshore and hollow and pretty solid. today is probably a little smaller and way sloppier, not even close to as good.

davo, great wave that one. surfed it many times with my cousin Lou Cadia who taught me that vague is vogue even in saturated socal.

props to Hb, he kept it on the down low while giving the low down. well done.

kick ass fun out there this morning boys
damn, gotta get a higher res digi cam

hey bagel,

Here's a hell Black's story for ya, told to me by my SDSU buddy: The boys charge down in the morning one summer day. One of the guys didn't wear sandals down. No biggie, until they're heading back in the middle of the day and it's hot as a mofo. He full-on burns up the bottom of his feet, blisters and all, just getting across the sand to the road. His bros had to take turns piggy-backing him all the way up the fire road.

go surf now.

It is WAY fun.

Maybe you're right 3 to 5. Doesn't do anyone any good to rave about spots. I'll do my best to keep it vague. I do miss that wave though.

i remember someone here looking for a house near OB to rent

http://www.surfpulse.com/cgi-bin/eclassifieds/classifieds.cgi?search_and_display_db_button=on&db_id=1272&exact_match=on&photo_size=full&query=retrieval

wasn't andrew wood the lead singer of mother love bone??

The offshore winds make a BIG difference at OB. Its almost like two different breaks - outer bars with offshores and outer bars without.

Thanksgiving had offshores.

This question is gonna seem kinda silly with Ocean Beach doing its Fall time thing right now but, I have a question for all the niceness folk:

Im gonna be down in LA in a couple weeks and i was considering going to check out Malibu.

Ive always heard its a South swell spot but wanted to ask if it picks up say, a Big NWer?

Either way I wanna see the place ive heard about my whole life and now i have a chance to check it out im going to. The ghost of Mickey Dora and "Single Fin Yellow" kinda sold me on going.

I also want to buy a longboard so if you have any ideas please lemme know.

Peace

here's a better hell bl*ck's story. blew my acl and tore a meniscus in my left knee after getting slammed by overhead barrel. broke my board too. wasn't a fun walk up the hill.

Davo - when were you at UCSD? i was there til 91 and lived in sd for another 8 years. proly saw you often as that and lj reefs are my fave breaks. those summertime souths in 70 degree water...

Malibu faces directly south. Ain't no NW swells getting in there, unless it has a lot of west in it.

One wave and I am still smiling at 3:00 p.m.!

KDalle, I think the board length is perfect on my 7'10''. I got a great board for what I paid and the thickness, etc. is great. It was really strange to paddle a board like that today. Given the length, i didn't think I could duck dive it but it wasn't bad. In regards to paddling and the comfort level, there is something to be said about having more foam under you. I felt super confident being out there on it. But, it did seem like it was easily doable on a much smaller board.

Good learning experience for sure. It will come in handy the rest of the season. As for the 8'6'', we shall see but that is the next one for sure! Maybe a mid winter order........Hmmmmmm......

Rincon's a far better bet for wintertime. It's a better wave anyway.

malibu sucks.
if you are that close go to Rincon. 10 times the wave and its a winter spot.

hey caveman -- I went to UCSD from 91-96. We just missed each other. However, I also stayed in SD up until a year ago. Lived in the Marine St apartments behind Taco Bell on LJ Blvd from 97-2000, just up the street from all those nice souch swell reefs. Never liked the most popular of the reefs, as it's kind of a slow longboarder wave, but all the other reefs have nice fast & hollow rides. Then I got married and moved in with my girl in UTC, and mainly surfed Blacks just like in college.

Dude, your hell story is pretty awful. Sounds like a Tom Carrol injury.

not much wind and the swell is down.. might have the makings of a post-work session. SF buoy at 6.2ft 11seconds

hmmmm...

kaiser, take a photo of your rack.

e- contact me about a winter board, cheap- maybe free. you still have my e-mail address? if not blakestah & ck have it or i guess all sneaky it is goodmorning at zworg dot com. i could stand the room on the rack. blakestah, if you haven't passed the ufo off i know it has been my turn since last saturday- terrible work week. sounds like next week is a fine time to try it.

e, go charge you pansy! kidding.

thanks for all the rincon love, just in time for winter. not that everyone doesn't already know it, but apparently some still do not.

davo - funny - i worked in an architecture office right above the baskin robbins near that taco bell on LJ blvd from 96-y2k (i grew up down there, went to school up here). probably saw you in the water from time to time. an average lunch consisted of biking home (palomar/LJ blvd) on my cruiser - grabbing a lunchtime surf at that "slow longboarder wave" - and then heading back to work. not bad, i miss that life sometimes.

my only experience of getting turned back by whitewater (besides OB) was at blacks. somehow my friend mat got to the outside on a 9'-0" noserider which still baffles me to this day.

that was me my computer is tripping & trying to be smarter than me

Good job to all who charged and all, like me, who prefer fuzzy blankets.

Yeah, I definitely miss the SD lifestyle too. Summertime swims at the Cove, splashing in the water at Shores with my 2-year-old son, year-round waves at the previously mentioned beachbreak, day and weekend trips to baja. However, I don't miss the crowds in the water and the traffic, which is now worse than up here.

E yes, it's dropped off to about 2/3 what it was here. Sun's out, almost no wind and it's firing off like it's stamped out of a machine. Much more manageable than this morning. And typically, it's empty. 'Spect they're all at windy mar.

thanks for the update nz swell. Different parts of the beach must be acting differently because a friend just emailed from his house above Kelly's saying that it looked smooth but the waves were crap. hmmmmm...

ya don't know till ya go.

too bad there'll be no surf for me today.. i'm downtown until the evening.. I'll conserve my energy for a hopeful pummelling somewhere tomorrow.. sweeet.

enjoy it if ya get it.

kaiser just called and said his connection is down, but wanted me to post this picture of his rack for you

the words 'bitch tits' come to mind.

that's hot

j............that is faucking foul. but i'm laughing.

niceness, get some. have a groovy weekend. score and claim vague.

Fuck, you are killin me! I need to get out of here ASAP.

You see J going for my tits there...

That guy loves man boobs.

Fucking J!!!

i think i just peed myself.

Agree with DSX. On the way down... Every nook and cranny, even the secret ones were packed. Except a couple shark bait beaches. The lane was looking pretty damn sick. So sick, each wave had at least 3 people on it. Oh well, drove east. Too crowded too. Back to the west. Finally opted for a reef which had an occasional shoulder high wave. Good shapes though. Nothing spectacular for all the brass-balls, considering the swell size.

ahhh, i love my dot com yuppy SUV driving job!! just had a massage, and dammit i needed it.

never been with a girl with a lipring.

GOOD VIBE J

you all should talk about yourselves and how good you are at surfing some more. Self aggrandizing pussies.

I finally got out in the late afternoon today. Even though the swell seemed to have dropped some since this morning and the surf was pretty hightide-mushy, it was still nice to surf some waves of consequence again. It's been a long time for me - I missed most of last surf season due to problems with my back. I'm in pretty good shape now and it's nice to know I can still surf overhead waves.
The paddle was no-drama. I scoped out a good rip and was outside it about 10 minutes. I started with one of the smaller in-betweeners. It backed-off and petered-out almost immediately. Then I got a couple of the medium-sized set waves and finally lucked into a couple of bombs. About 6:30 a bunch of chop drifted in and started to hack it up some. I was hoping for one last bomb to go in on. The chop was making it harder to get into them and I got caught inside of three GREAT waves. Cursing my bad position, I ended up shoulder hopping a set wave in as it started to get dark. All things considered, it was an ideal warm up session. I don't expect to be out on any 12 to 15 foot days at Ocean Beach this year, but I will be out there on the slightly smaller days.

funny shit

check out it's good to be in DC, their new one.

Victory at Sea! I saw a brave soul mid-beach and a sponger getting rides at Sloat; also a guy coming out at Sloat with a fish (?!).

It was cleaner from here, but the tide was wrong, I guess:

gvibe7... just two words: Hi Larious

whoever posted that suicidegirl picture is cool...suicide girls are my kind of bag, baby.

e - dont think that guy shoulda yelled at you, as you were in a bad situation (broken leash), and he just kinda made it worse for you..but oh well.......i look up to all you OB surfers in away, cause id never consider surfing OB..place spooks me..im a puss,.

OK, so there's something going on.

I think i might have some pics of you B-stah
i will post them once i get it sorted out

Also wanted to ask just what is the best swell angle for Rincon.

Not that i will be getting any free set waves.
Besides id rather see Curren surf than me.

I dunno Rincon. Even if I did, I wouldn't post swell angles here. Generally accepted bight angle for SoCal is 290 deg - so once angles get more west than that things start to light up.

Nothing more humbling than pictures of yourself surfing...

Rincon picks up a certain north angle around 305, due to a hole between certain, to remain unnamed, channel islands. But that window is small, but it does pick up some north. Aside from that, Blakestah has it right, I'd give it up to 295 for rideable surf. Just compare the west channel and the east channel buoys, Needs to be over half the size at east buoy for there to be significant waves in the channel. But I might be lying, but I wouldn't tell you if I was.

Ive never been sure about santa barbara. I have a lot of family in goleta and never surfed there .

I Knew Rincon had some wierd swell angle but never considered it because i never thought id surf the place.

Fuck the crowds. Fuck the localism.

Long live the Curren Clan.

No, blakestah. Nothing more humbling than video of yourself. Pictures can make you look better than you are. Where is that video of you from last Friday?

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