E's Surf Report

Sounds like a fun Saturday! I gave up and took some pictures. Sunday I DP'ed waaaay early at the J---y, got a few fun ones before the throngs descended, and then played with the digicam some more. Here's a little video clip:

LITTLE VIDEO CLIP

Hoping for things to clean up for a mid-late afternoon session today.

Like Culture sang..."when two swells crash...." or was that sevens?

Hermosa and the like were goin' off all weekend. Head high, glassy, barrely, offshore. two long sessions a day. Why does no one surf Sunday evenings? Swell still here this mornin'...fun peaks again.

Arms are tired, legs are spent, eyes are burnin', but ahhhh that surfed-out feeling is nice today.

Sorry to hear about Dave. Hope he continues to get better and maybe one day he will be that guy Kaiser's old post was talkin' about. Go Dave!

a bit of unexpected goodness in the city saturday afternoon... very good times indeed

Jealous of all who could get wet this weekend.

I have a video of last Friday if anyone wants to host it. It's kinda big though. Using various iMovie conversions the I settled on 11mb Quicktime for a 5:45 vid. Seems big to me but I'm new to this so maybe that's typical.

Anyhow, if anyone wants to host let me know where to email it.

I took off last Weds and traveled south, Big Sur-Huntington-San Clemente-Ocean Side-Rincon and Sunday I woke up in the back of my truck to find a contest at Steamers, so I made it home to OB. Best waves were in Huntington and Rincon. That was the best Huntington I've ever surfed. OB looked a little too big for me yesterday... Good on ya who got OB...

The tooth:

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2004/10/11/BAGMO974541.DTL

Saturday at the Lane was substantial on the outtermost peak, and there was some contest going on. Everything inside of there was clean and neither big nor scary. It was my first time there, so I started paddling out from the beach, fist passing a circle of blue foam boards listening to their instructor. Paddling further, next break has 8 or 9 long boards all going straight on the same wave, with the riders in Karate Kid arms-out position. Peaks became kinda intermittent and not real discernable for the rest of the paddle out. There was no real line up, just tons and tons of people, everywhere, chatting away. It was clean and sunny and bright, tons of high school kids: I couldn't help but feel like I was in a suburban strip mall. I got kinda hungry for a big soft pretzel and was surprised to see no one talking on a cell phone. On the second to last "peak" there were people on non-longboards, so I hung out there for about 15 minutes where I could discern no pecking order, and was too embarassed to ask anyone 10 years younger than myself. Finally a wave came through with no one on it, looking left, I hopped on its mushy shoulder, slolomed around a few people on surf boards, and spent 20 minutes paddling back to the beach. I did spot the stair cases on the way back, but I'm afraid of rocks.

Sunday went to OB and caught a beating. After 30 minutes of trying to get out, I decided that was the ocean's way of telling me I need to practice duck dives, so I sat on the inside and practiced that for an hour, occasinally riding in on some foam. One time I duck dove too far forward, ended up in the impact zone, and shortly there after washed up on the beach with an unzipped westuit and a mouthful of water from too close to the sewerage outflow. It's no longer that summer mush where I could paddle out with great hubris at any spot.

Another hazard of moving away from walking distance to the beach is driving off with an unstrapped board on top of the car, only to watch it fly off in the rearview. Like bailing, I'll be the only one to admit to this one.

Lots of grey in the ocean. SC was pumping on Friday. My friend and I found a little reef going and had it to ourselves (surprisingly) after two guys left. The lane was going off, but every wave was a party wave.

E, love the last pic. On big days, I don't catch as much so I usually go bodyboarding instead. Jan. 1999, I had an awesome sponge session at way south OB with my brother from OB (San Diego). It was freezing (45F air) but absolutely glassy barrels. Just one after another, steep drop, high wall like that, pop out the back. Mess around, spin on the drop... tons of fun.

Summer is here!

friday eve and saturday were fun. yo e—lovin' that
pre-session clam bake. it made the whole thing
just right. cannot complain about the crowd, the sun,
the company or the screaming death pits breaking in kiddie pool
depth H2O. BTW e, that last wave you had was particularly nice.

i dug sand outta me ears all day saturday and sunday.
and the drain came on the bike ride home from the
meat festival at elias's last night. ya'll be on the lookout
for elias's home made blade....holy sh** that looks
so damn fast......

sorry kaiser tomorrow is the day.

lerm—great to meet ya and surf some waves.
thanks for the hoot on that drop.

to re-iterate another site....
"be nice out there." it will be a zoo come friday.

Damn, I had some extra sand around on Saturday as well!

Good times surfin in the sun Sat. Friday was super fun! Glad I got some waves in the afternoon as it was really fun out at the beach as the sun went down. I think those are some of my favorite conditions, just some cleaner faces and a little more bowly and I would have been in la-la land.

Korewin, I'll get some morning work in....But you guys are gonna have to represent for me on Wednesday and Thursday! Damn, bad week to travel.

Kdalle vid from Friday

Two waves for me in there. Somewhere.

This afternoon is gonna get good! Woo-hoo!

kaiser, you're travelling in the fall?!?!?!?! are you out of your freakin' mind???

Friday eve was real good at the beach. Surfed for 2 1/2 hours in good/sunny conditions. Shared the peak with a group of friends I'd never met. We got into hooting each other into the set waves that rolled right to the person in position - Good fun. Sat on top of my van for the last hour of daylight and saw a lot of really good surfing. Fall is swell.

I went to SC very early Sat morning. Got there pre-dawn. At my favorite spot--a contest setting up. Drove to my second favorite spot--another contest. Went to my least favorite spot--the point was getting crowded as the sun came up. Only caught a couple waves in a couple hours. Scraps really as the point was filled with locals all on first name basis. They all knew each other but didn't know me so I gave room, which means sit on the shoulder and hope everyone else missses the wave. Beautiful morning though. No wind at all while OB was howling. Most likely, I wouldn't have gone in at OB so I was still ahead of the game...

There was a shark attack Drakes beach yesterday. It sounds like the surfer is ok. He was alone and paddled in and then used his cell phone to call for help. Check out sfgate for details.

The Park Service has closed the ocean for four miles around there to surfing and swimming for a week. Just like they did at Stinson when they spotted the shark there a few months ago. The lifeguards made my friend and I walk up the beach 100 yards to the county line before we could go in.

This is ridiculous, they don't close Palo Alto when a puma walks through a yard there.

Anyway until the Park Service gets some sanity I'm thinking we should only report sightings on boards like this. Not to scientists or any sort of officialdom. Obviously if you are actually attacked you should do whatever it takes to make sure the doctor knows exactly how to treat you.

That way it can just be rumors and they won't be sure which beach to close. Keep in mind here that the National Park service controls huge amounts of beach here, we've got to keep them from wetting their pants every couple of weeks.

Thoughts?

Okay here's a good chuckle:

Paddled out at the Lane Sunday. Good waves, contest on, crowded. I should've know better -- there were other reefs breaking, albeit with less size and consistency, but I was lured away to the Lane by the long lines and substantial size.

Anyway, I'm out at the point and have a couple waves under my belt. Then I see Ratboy paddle out, and just blatantly drops in on some dude. Nothing new there. Then I see Skindog show up. Great. A little while later I'm taking off on a wave and some dude drops in right in front of me. I grab his rail to prevent him from reaming me. He bails, I keep riding, but the wave kinda peters out. Skindog was on the inside and saw the whole thing. Then he starts yelling at me to paddle over to Middle Peak 'cause I'm "dropping in", "too many trannies with boards flying everywhere". I hadn't paddled around the guy, I hadn't dropped in on anyone the whole day, and hadn't gotten in anyones way either. I say "Tell me what I did wrong". He tells me to "leave now or I'll punch a hole in your board". I try to ignore him, but he's insistent. His antics don't scare me, but it is pretty annoying and it's a session killer. The funny thing is, the guy in front of me wasn't even his buddy, I don't think the even knew each other. He was just using the incident as an excuse to police me. I say "Look I know you're a great surfer and all, but I grew up surfing around here too. Just because I didn't go to your high school..." He cuts me off saying "It doesn't matter..." He paddles away, saying "you better leave". I don't, and I paddle back out to make my point clear, but I'm a little further over to the left because I don't want the hassle. He catches the next nice set wave and on his way back out says "I thought I told you to leave. Now I'm gonna have to yell at you every time I see you out here." By this time I'm just laughing out loud because I think it's funny, and he does appear to not be taking his threats too seriously either. He gets another one, and then I get a wave and decide to paddle in, as I'm already late for my wife waiting at the car. I pass by him on the way in and he says "Oh, NOW you decide to paddle in". I smile at him and say "Yeah, my wife's gonna kill me if I'm late again. Don't flatter yourself." And that was that. The end of another wonderful session at the Lane.

I HAVE A SMALL COCK, GET OFF MY WAVE!!

should have let him punch the hole in the board, than stabbed him with the fiberglass piece that was leftover.

ratboy, skindog, dogfleas, termite, unstokeddog, toolboy...

wish I had a cool nickname when i surf...

don't want to name names, but moc.krakcalb is goin' off right now!

Andrew, sucks about the board mishap; how bad is it? I came close to doing that after one of my first surfing sessions; since then I've always left the straps (bungies for me) in the driver's seat while surfing.

Just as dumb: dropping the board in the lot. I did that and snapped the nose on my shortboard (my only board at the moment) completely off after Friday's OB session (it was ready to go on Saturday thanks to quality-control laxity at klooless ding repair, ltd.).

I wonder what the greatest ever proportion of ding-repair materials to original board materials has been.

Davo, enjoyable tale.

E, Lerm, on the way back from splitting up with yall on Sunday, I happened to be driving by Sloat when somebody, I don't know who, but the only person out, took off an a massive massive thing, and totally killed it! The drop didn't look so intense but by the time he got to the bottom, he was just a little dot. Well DOH+. (It was a left, and he was goofy. Christian?) Somehow he made it back to the top, and ripped a top turn, and did it again at least once more that I could see before the bathouse got in the way. It was a beauty.

andrew...

i'll admit to losing boards on I-95 in 1987.
broken straps. but pulling away you don't
get the lift needed.....

holy SH** ya'll would freak if you saw how FAR
UP in the air that boards can go when you're
going 75 or 85mph. and of the 3, 2 landed in the median.
not bad.

and this is NOT in a board bag.
board bags insure road death for boards.

Here's a first
Coming in from Lindy yesterday

I saw a dude with a broken Patagonia Board????

That the first board I've ever seen broken out there (not including fin cuts - crash induced breakage)

That's pretty funny the toughest board broken by the world's weakest wave

Was it any of you.....

baja

la lane WAS like disneyland on saturday. bruce got me on one wave, ouch. only saw flea and anthony ruffo out..they were killing it seemed like there were lots of waves to go around, suprisingly mellow vibes and cute 14 year old girls out..the dorky contest announcer made things funny "bro! non-contestants kick out!" even yelling at one grom who was actually surfing "do a top turn!". great day wanted to stick around for a second sesh but my friend had to bring his girlfriend who was chilling on thier roof top a beach chair.

thanx for posting that video of friday! looked crazy..

sounds like a classic session on saturday, e and company. nice one!

i´m sitting in an internet cafe trading letting the rasta in charge burn my bob cds for free internet. sweet! imagine what i could get for blackark.com... free internet for life!

my surf trip is off to the ´you should have been here last week´ kinda vibe, but i´m chilling, camping, and we´ve got action coming soon. i will send pics if i get any good ones. and i´ll be sure to ride one for dave. love and respect, niceness!

i have a little space in my heart for the sc vermin and some of the old ways. part of the old ways, was to go "somewhere else" when the contest came to town. why the F*CK would anyone want to paddle out into the fray during a contest, as the first nw waves light up the winter reefs? your just asking for trouble. i agree, it sucks. but that's THE WAY IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN. there is no use trying to reason with them. they know who the trannies, valleys, and late bloomers all are..........davo they simply had your number.

by the way, was saturday national surf contest day or something? the lane, lindy, the jetty all contests..

Kdalle Video

To get video above, right click, save to disk, play from there.

On a mac I think it is option click.

Christian is RIPPIN it - look for his left with, I think, two very nice off the lips. I get a very boring ride at 2:10 into the vid.

This is 100% kdalle's work, I'm just hosting it and pimpin it here :)

from massara's newsletter

ALERT: On October 13, at its upcoming meeting in San Diego, the Coastal
Commission is set to deliberate a proposal to construct gated town of
379-houses on 77-acres on the upper mesa of the Bolsa Chica Wetlands in
Huntington Beach, Orange County. The proposal is merely the latest in the
decades old struggle by developer Hearthside Homes to build on top of
southern California's largest wetland. For more information, go to item 11g
at
http://www.coastal.ca.gov/mtgcurr.html

Re: board breakage @ Lindy.

Patagonia's early boards used expanded polystyrene and those boards actually broke pretty easily. Expanded polystyrene has that pebble-like consistency you see when a cheap beer cooler breaks in half. The new ones use extruded polystyrene and are way bomber.

Most people will have a hard enough time admitting to surfing Lindy much less breaking a board there. BUT I do know of a certain OB ripper chick who has broken a board there. Ask Stahz the next time you see her... ;-)

bagel: contest at the hook as well on saturday.

I went out at Rockaway yesterday and got schooled. I was out 3 hours and caught one wave. It was very hard not to drift from the take-off spot and I wimped out multiple times on makeable waves. I saw a lot of nasty wipeouts on the drop. I also broke my board.

I surf Lindy. I ain't afraid.

But, I have seen a few broken boards there. Anytime you get the full length close out going when the swell gets about 6 ft at some longer period, that'll do it.

J, you ripping Inside Mavs on Saturday? I think I saw your pimped out SUV with them Duece-Duece's as I came down from Scone-ville.

that's how i ride

e called it, the DP was kind of rank. Which was odd because it was warm, onshorey, it SHOULD have been semi working. But there were no peaks..no peaks! Walked to a likely spot, not so bad at all paddle out - and yet despite incoming high tide, had traveled several letters of the alphabet south. The incoming low current should be charming today. Was like a cork bobbing in bubbly, what is there to catch? 25 minute session. Agh

Seen broken boards at Lindy too. No, not my board, but that's probably luck!

i can smell good waves outside even down here..

i broke a board in half at lindy mar a long time ago..those close outs got some power

i can smell the vinyl in this town

anybody else having problems playing blakestah's vid? i've got the latest version of quicktime and it's still saying "it is not a file that Quicktime understands".

jonesing for the after-school special today...

bbr-I had problems too and I created the vid! The best I can suggest at this point is to download and play it as opposed to streaming. It's my first vid and I'm not sure if it had to do with some preference I chose. I used iMovie. Any advice from the experienced would be helpful for next time.

Featured riders include: Blakestah, Friend #1, Christian, Davo and Alex

bbr, you on mac or pc? Christian really slays those waves in the video. Thanks kdalle, I like! Who got waves today? Anyone have a WORKING turn table for sale?

On 09 Oct 2004, at 9:53 AM, Ian wrote:

> Hey man, I just read your fish review and was curious how it rides? It
> seems
> your review was written before getting many quality rides in, so
> all-in-all
> how is it? Looks awesome!
>
> -Ian
>

ahoy ian

i never got to properly test out the fish until this past weekend -
supertubes was epic, best swell of the year so far.

it was 6 foot solid, offshore and not too crowded (ie. 30 guys out as
opposed to the usual season crowd of 50+).

the fish went perfectly, no sliding out at all, i could lean into
bottom turns like i was on a 9 foot gun, and she was so fast i had no
trouble outrunning the sections - in fact i had so much speed i could
go places on the wave i never thought possible.

i had worried about the paddling ability as she is only a 5'8", but
when greg shaped it he made it super chunky. so i paddled about a mile
from lower point all the way up to supertubes and had no problem, i
figured out how to paddle with the nose just under the surface, no
drag, no worries.

i was told at the end of the day that i had ridden the smallest board
on the day - stoked!

this board is the best thing i have ever ridden, no question.

thanks for the interest ian!

take care
- garth robinson

the vid worked for me, but it took awhile to load.

kaiser - i went in for a brief, uneventful session saturday AM. so brief the rims were still spinnin' when i got out!

Sick video kdalle! Thanks for posting, blakestah. Christian's cutback/topturn/cutback left is by far the best.

I remember my waves...about half way through the clip I work my way around two sections and then almost get a little barrel section (narrel?) and a little cuttie. And the third-to-last wave on the clip (the left) is mine too.

Any way I could get a high-res version of these, kdalle? If so, mail to db0225-surfvids@yahoo.com. 10MB limit, though. If they're too large I can set up and FTP account for ya to upload...

video was anti-climatic. Good narrel at the end,Christian just toying with the face and fadding to perfection but I'm not calling that morning big nor DOH. IN fact it looked like it did in the afternoon. Hella fun!!! I know the vid doesnt do the size justice, but....

Decent shape and some good surfing but waves were bigger at the FT. yesterday. You would of got much better footie in the afternoon @ OB Friday when dudes were tearin it up.

BTW the FORT just sucks when there are more than 10 people out. Some of the guys there just need to die, lighten up or beat it. They are so friggin agry and really dont surf that well. The FT. is like the Lane and peeps from all over the world come to surf there. I had a great conversation and gave my two cents to this Asian longboard dude who was there for the first time. I think it sucked that he was too intimidated to get into the lineup and that he didnt get a wave. I told him he would have better crowds weekdays. I hope he got some waves today. I left having a couple of good waves in my pocket but wanting to bring a gat to intimidate the intimadators next sesh. I dont know what the solution is but I predict the escallation of violence in the surf community. People are so fucked that they are going to push the wrong buttons on some folks. Columbine @ the Lane & FT. It will happen. I just wish OB was always offshore,clean and head high...ohh with tons of desparate horny women....

Pez, nailing it once again.

Can we have a pic please....

I think the place of which you speak can be fun when its working but its low on my list. Funny that people try to turn it into a local spot given its high profile location and easy waves (a lot of the time). I've seen some gross shit floating around in the water there though. Blech.

Davo-

More than happy to drop a higher res video to an ftp. Their surprisingly large so email won't work. The one Blakestah was good enough to host is over 6mb. The one I would send you would be 20-25 mb!!!

The quality is a bit fuzzy because with all the gray (sky, water, wetsuit) the autofocus has a hard time picking what to focus on.

Your ride was pretty sweet though.

Email the ftp info if you need to for security reasons and I can do it in the next day or two.

kdalle@sbcglobal.net

Which wave, Mr. Bagel? You know, if you see an old fart with a camera in the lot lizard section you're required to give me a dope slap and say hi. Send me an email- I may have more photos.

I have to disagree with my colleagues that Saturday was a mush fest at Disneyland. I saw a few significant sets (of course I'm a wimp). But pretty friggin' cool to see the first juice of the fall. And today there was still some energy north of SC (third photo).

cool pics bruce. thanks for posting. I like the lime-green color of the second wave.

santa cruz county is blessed.

finally got it to work by playing it in a explorer window on my PC instead of downloading it. couldn't get it work either way on my mac.

pez-
it was a zoo but i think the problem was more with guys not knowing what the hell they were doing than with the guys who did. the (sorta) good local guys who were out might have had maddog faces but i didn't see anything worse than an evil stare here and there. at least they weren't ditching their boards and taking out everyone behind them during sets and making the lineup more dangerous. this was saturday though, sunday might have been different.

sunday i was at the niners game (not a big fan, just got tix for free) and all i gotta say is this: it's funny how SF fans always talk shit about LA fans leaving games early, but sunday half the stadium was in the parking lot as the niners scored 16 points in the last 4 minutes to send it to OT and win.

Kaiser, thank you for those tummies. Women are so beautiful you have to wonder what they see in men. That's a great "organic" shot.

I love Reef girls. Ratboy - just because you are SC local or charge hard does not make you a toughguy. No matter how tough you are there is someone that will treat you like a ragdoll. One day you will be getting all new bridgework thinking about how you should have just shut your mouth. Your boys will hem and haw crying revenge. But the guy who busted you up might be long gone. Maybe just a guy passing through and tired of taking shit. It has happened before and it will happen again. Your best bet is to follow the niceness plan and we will all get along. I do not advocate the violence but when you run your mouth you are susceptible to violence's ramifications. You are setting yourself up for it dimwad. Be nice and nice will be to you.

ha ha, naaa it wasnt really a mush fest it was just like a full on scene, you know? the waves were great i thought, and even though it was crowded there was plenty to go around even with ruffo and flea and other rippers including ragnar...ill email you...it was cool to get caught by your lense though, thanks! i figured that might be you up on the cliff there and i was gonna find out but i could only think about pizza by the time i got out of the water....wikid

Bruce, were you at the lane on Friday morning? I don't think ratboy charges. He might rip, but does not charge when compared to his comrads.

Everything is Best

One day Banzan was walking through a market. He overheard a customer say to the butcher, "Give me the best piece of meat you have." "Everything in my shop is the best," replied the butcher. "You can not find any piece of meat that is not the best." At these words, Banzan was enlightened.

Manjusri Enters the Gate

One day as Manjusri stood outside the gate, the Buddha called to him, "Manjusri, Manjusri, why do you not enter?" Manjusri replied, "I do not see myself as outside. Why enter?"

uh huh huh huh huh

as if we haven't dissed her enough already here...

SURFING Mag: "What are your feelings about Bush's environmental stance?"

Daize Shayne: "Honestly, I'm not qualified to talk about that. I don't really know enough about politics to even have this conversation. I just know enough that I stand behind someone who sticks to his decision and prays and… I mean, aren't all Republicans not for the environment? Isn't that, like, a normal thing? Aren't, like, Democrats for pro-choice and aren't Republicans against environmental things and more for oil, money and power? And I don't agree with that. To be honest, I've never been a voter until this year. We're, like, surfers. I just want to surf and play my guitar and hang out with my friends. I know that sounds really selfish, and this year I've become a lot more aware of our situation. "

read it all at

http://surfingthemag.com/pulse/08_26_04_daize_gop/

http://www.thetoiletonline.com/leaveit.htm

Bagel was being shy about this? Ripperific!

Yeeeeah, steezed out bagel.

thanks dudes

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