E's Surf Report

Great waves this morning at the beach. Got my wave of the season, too! Sick pit -- I dare say 2.5 seconds in the green room.

nice score, e! lerm...sorry to hear about the board! is that the same one on which you snapped the fin a few weeks back? my condolences, amigo.

as for me, work interferred this morning, but i finally returned to the water last night for a quick seshie after a 2.5 week dry-spell! my longest non-injury-induced dry-spell in over a year and a half was hard to take. it felt sooooo good just to get back in the water...even if it was frickin' freezing! what the hell happened to the warmth that enabled me to surf booty-less in complete comfort for so long? hell of an upwelling, i guess. numb feet that felt like blocks of wood by the end of the sesh aside, i can't wait to get back on it! hopefully tonight.

peace.

narelled

I found there to be some warble still at one end of the beach. Still fun and super nice to get a few waves before stepping a plane out of town. Pretty sizeable still but tough to get over the ledge and get into the waves.

Enjoy the next few days, sounds like it should be some classic fall conditions. There should be a little more room out there until Friday afternoon.

the niceness crew gets nice and jiggy....
there were barrels and all sorts of fun and
games out there.

lerm—bummer man. i THOUGHT i saw a
dejected and familiar face trudging across
the great highway as i decided between sandbars
to the north or sandbars to the south. a blaze of
glory i hope dude!

ck—welcome back, eh.
what do you mean cold you hoser?

no eve session for me BUT hope to
re-play today's festivities manana....ck? elias?
sorry kaiser have fun in gotham...heh heh.
who will post shots in his absence?

e, i saw that ride. that was awesome!

thanks ck. yeah. same and only board. i saw christian and he suggested that i take it to alex's ER. in the meantime, i think i'm going to just go out and buy a new thruster damn it. i have some money saved.

the waves were so fun. glad to hear the stoke buzzing!

Props to Davo!
I was at the next peak South when he nabbed his barrel. It was one of those drops to a flat bottom, then the wave heaved over.
BTW... Davo... I thought you had a 10AM meeting? 1st post? My mtg ended early...but I just barely made it on time.
Fun waves this AM and yesterday PM. Lots of barrels this AM, in particular. Ear still hasn't drained. It's becoming a breeding ground. One more season, and it's time for a-drilling.

classic glassy bizarre morning out there.

awesome surfing with E for a bit, after a two years or so of waiting for the stars to align we finally shared a couple of waves. to bad e had to go in... but he got a nice slider that roped in and sent him trimming northbound. good vibes. good rides.

also, e, jason from the establishment is now habitating here in the bay!

thanks for the niceness.

kaiser, we'll miss you on the west coast. get some real brooklyn pizza, ehh?

aight dudes... gots to start workin..

first time in a loooong time that i've surfed an evening session and was still motivated enough to get up and surf the dawn patrol. one shack in particular this morning made my day.... despite the friggin' $12 i had to sport to get a cab to work on time for a meeting!!

ditto everything but bbr's cab ride. my arms are noodles after last night and this morning.

i'm also claiming back to back sessions. and looking at this damn monitor is making me fade.....

elias.. same place tomorrow.. i'll look for ya. Asesome that juicy joyce now resides in the yay area.. siiiick.

bbr and davo - nice on the shacks gentlemen! Shacklicious. i bet sfkneelo found some pits too.

hopefully the swell won't die before tomorrow!! please please please.

bbr: 12 bucks for a shack? i would pay it. nice!

saw three tiny shark? fins pop up this morning, one other guy saw it and we didn't say nothing. he paddles back out and says "we didn't see that" hope the parents were having breaky out at Catalina. Hmmmm.

Great fun in the ocean this morn again.

sounds nice wish i could have joined the heads this am..oh gods of long lunch grant me a long lunch even though i do not have my car, let me find a way. thanx for posting that shot e.

:)

nice slice, bagel. it was unreal yesterday afternoon b/w 1-3 pm. and the best part...even though it was kinda crowded, everyone was super niceness. made me so glad to be away from the sc ridiculousness described by davo.
i do not miss all those fools down there who get their rocks off by yelling at people.

bbr-that's nauseating. almost as sick and frightening as kaiser's tits.

bbr, recent photos? heard some good tales recently of scorage. sssoooo siiiiiccckkkk

Hey SFKneelo,

Good to meet you in the water. Luckily, my meeting at work got pushed back till later.

Hey, you should wear silicone ear plugs to prevent water entering your inner ear. I have surfer's ear too, and I wear them religiously to prevent it from getting worse. I've tried every kind of earplugs out there, and for me the simple silicone ones are the best. They suck at first cause you feel like you're deaf, but you get used to it after a couple sessions. They let a little water in, but in my experience it's never enough for it to enter your inner ear where the water gets stuck and causes infection.

My Karv longskate got smashed by a munibus last night on Haight. I wiped out after narrowly getting hit by a car door. As I lay face down on the pavement, I saw the rear tire of the bus go up and over the board just above the rear trucks. Rear truck/wheels and board are toast.
Lerm - I definately feel for you....

that sucks Traut!! arggh!

out with the old and in with the new.

yo Traut! sucks! but the same thing happened to my longskate, only the front wheels/trucks. I just drilled some new holes and moved my trucks back, or in your case, forward.

Try it.

I still skate that board...best shortboard i have. And it handles like a shortboard on the hills without giving up speed b/c of the bigger wheels.

Out with the old and in with the newer old!

Late afternoon yesterday: far outside bomblets that became speedy user-friendly tours to the inside, alternating steep and mellow over the sandbars. STOKE! One right was probably my most fun wave ever---really long ride with lots of time to play (which for me mainly means wiggling back and forth a little and sticking my arm in the wall to keep from falling over). After forever I thought I could cut back left to avoid the coming close-out and catch a re-form to the beach, BUT the section in front of me started pitching and glowing light-green, so I tucked into the microtubule and let the wave have its way with me. STOKE!

Today mid-morning: higher tide, so the outside bomblets weren't there, but nice, clean, FUN shape with plenty of push. Damn, waves like this make me feel INTERMEDIATE sometimes. By 11:30 it seemed to me the size was increasing pretty dramatically where I was, and the bomblets, or bombs, even were breaking again, and tubes were in evidence. A group came out including this guy who had a big camera of some sort, and was somehow catching waves and taking pictures or videos as he went. I got ragdolled pretty good a few times when caught inside or kooking a takeoff; there is still some solid energy out there.

Someone freeze OB like this for me, please. YOW!!!!!!

sweet post kloo.
let's harness the power of niceness and positive energy to hold back the wind so some of us can get an arvo (where did that term originate?) session in. please start chanting now: No Wind, No Wind, No Wind, No wind, No wind...........etc......Thank you in advance.

Oh sweet gods of karma.. Please reward me today. I know I reset my alarm numerous times this morning and decided not to play in the waves, but I promise I will greatly increase my karma levels if you reward me for my good ones.

Yesterday was sweet, I got out of work at noon and scored the end of the beach, fast hollow little buggers, soo freakin fun. First three waves I went over the falls, then nailed the rest of em for 3 hours. I've been having some serious back problems as of late, sleeping in the back of truck for 5 days didn't help it much. Shot some pics this AM, muchos tubos, golden light. The "smog" is actually smoke from a northern fire that is blowing in through the bay. I've got parent teacher conferences all day, until 7. So hope you all get some.

Kloo, the guy with the cam is Ned, he's working on the Rastovich documentary... I think

Hey BBR, what color is your BB?

Sorry for the quadruple post...

mexi-
i was the guy with the red board... i saw you as i got out and was gonna come by and say hello but was super late.

bagel.. sucks that you don't have your truck downtown.. Who can give bagel and i a ride home for the arvo? there'll be some tasty vittles for ya! what time does it get dark these days anyway?

bbr, Nice tube! I snapped it but all you'll see is the waves, I wish I was a bit south looking in.

e & bagel - i'm back from europe and elatedly lining up an early departure. not sure how much time it will save you but if you can get to 24th st bart in the mission btwn 3:45-4pm i'll get you to the beach from there...lemme know

Good advice Davo... I can't hear now anyhow. I have two sets of some sort of earplug that sit in a drawer. I've got to pony up and start wearing them.
E, got several nice tubes today! Great pain-free conditions to go spelunking...

no way loon! thanks man!! too bad i'm probably here until 5. Usually when i want to surf the N-judah takes about 2 hours from downtown.. when i don't care how long it takes me it's about 25 minutes.. fargin N-Judah can bite me!

e - too bad. i'll let you know if i get delayed, otherwise hope to see you out there.

got a few pics and short vids from spain to share, nothing epic, hope to post 'em soon ...

I got denied! Denied! I am fuming!! Why oh why?! It looked soooo surfable on the outside.. So surfable! Yet suprisingly crunchy on the inside. Pulled every trick outta my hat to make it...no go! 6 attempts. Channels. More Channels. " Channels" ? Paddling. Running. Railsaving. Paddling. Jumping. Diving. Paddling. Levitating. Laughing. Crying. Paddling. Praying. Cursing. Been forever since I've been skunked....and today sure didn't seem skunkable to me. What the...?!!! AAGGGGGGHHH! AGH!

Hell hath no fury ..!!!!!

fyi Smokey the Bear would have something to say about the air out here. It's thick.

mexi-
stoked, i'd love to see whatever you got of that wave, my email is alex@805bbr.com -- thanks!

Regarding my post yesterday:

I do not condone violent acts nor was speaking of me commiting any of these acts personally. I was speaking my mind and stand behind what I said. I would also never front like I was packin and would never perp or instigate any unfortunate event. I was only giving my opinion on what I think happens when a HS mentality dominates any cultural sphere. Live by violence you will die violently.

Describing waves as "BOMBS" when its less than 10ft on the bouys sounds KOOKY. Especially when the bouys are less than head high (5.8ft right now). Nuggies,nuggets,peelers,ledges,claws may be more indicative.

DAMn Broken boards...yesterday's evening sesh was a little musy and I wish I got some of that low tide juice. Glad folks are getting shacked!!!Fuckers!!!

I got denied on my first try too. I noticed guys paddling out just north of me were having no trouble, so I just waded up the beach 30 yards and presto, out in no time.

Aaarrgggghhhh!! Why am I so busy with work?! It's painful to hear these tales of niceness...

3to5setsof7 -- Thanks for the fish tacos recipe you posted a couple weeks ago. My girlfriend and I made them last night and they are killer! Spicy!!

I think the term "bomb" came from the Aussie term "bombie" which is short for Bombora which means way outside reef. "Yo mate you see that bombie out the back" "good on ya"

time to go see the tax man. after that perhaps the "shack"...man.

see ya out the back.

E,
Any idea where the pic of the gu in shorts on the right is????

thanks mwsf. i created a shrimp version on sunday. i'll post later. all in advance of a week in sunny warm cabo with no distractions in 13 days. woo hoo

I checked back on pez's post yesterday and gotta concur. The deal at the Fort is kinda crazy. I won't surf that spot if there's more more than 5 or 6 people already out - hence, I just about NEVER get to surf there. But I've gotta say that I have never gotten any weird vibe there. Either it's the grey in my beard or the fact that I started out surfing there with (Odd) Todd Smith and Peter Vinci. They "walked me around" out there a few years ago, teasing me about my paranoia of the currents and the rocks. Todd: "So, ya gonna surf, or take another survey!?"

OB from a few years ago...

mexi.. colored photo of dude in shorts is Honolua bay on maui. black and white pic is Haleiwa on Oahu..

about surfing the point. Y'all might have picked up that i completely stopped mentioning that spot a few years ago. E's surf report was coming up in searches when you typed the name. that's not good. Publicly.. i'll come out and say that the spot rarely works. I've been hassled many times by the "crew". But more often i don't get hassled, it's just that it's tough to scrap any waves when there are more than 10 shredders trying to do the same. If you're a really good surfer, you'll score nice waves and have no problem. If you're an intermediate that isn't 100% confident jockeying for position and then taking off real deep right next to rocks and making the wave every time.. it's probably not worth it for you to go out there.

I've also seen Ryan beat the shit out of people. He's yelled at me a few times too.. just for taking waves. He's gnarly!! like, unstable crazy gnarly.

is that you kdalle?

Ryan's also got strike one on him in federal court and he knows if he gets strike two he's going to do hard time. 5 years, minimum. Maybe 2.5 if he gets a badass lawyer. But he can't afford that.

I am often glad I moved out of SF. In the 80's it got so bad there I quit surfing the points. I can hold my own. But who needs that hassle? I'm not a small guy. Ryan and Simon both picked fights with me and lost. Maybe in some way I had something to do with how they turned out. I'd like to think not -- those guys are just blunted. Sad that the place is how it is, but I doubt it will ever change.

I officially declare the season as fall. Lots of duck diving today... probably more than the whole summer. Lerm, I saw a board snapped today too. If you are interested, I have a 6'6" Goin (SC shaper) squash on consignment at one of the local shops for $190. They take 20%, so I'd knock that off the price.

Sun Set: 6:37pm

Simon is a nice guy if you know him, Ryan is scary even if you know him. Simon is an heir to the Hearst fortune (hit me I need the money) Ryan is heir to alcoholism and bad manners.

Yesterday after work provided my favorite type of waves. Got some size and not so much power to beat me up but enough to pick up some good down-the-line speed. A few makable sections on each wave. Fun, fun, fun...

Old timers Kelly's surfers and beachniks from the 60's and 70's gathering at Kelly's 11am on for get together, surf, picnic, remember those no longer here, etc. Come and share....

Oh, yeah, when would help:: Saturday, October 16

Story about Simon at FP:

http://www.towsurfer.com/archives/golden_gate_061002/

Oh, a link is better;

http://www.towsurfer.com/archives/golden_gate_061002/

Oh, BBR... that shot is just SICK.

thanks dano! send me an email wildstar2199 at hotmail dot com. i'm definitely interested.

i smell a setup. kaiser hides in the bushes with his 8mm. a few of us paddle out and wait for simon and ryan to engage us. with any luck, they'll start swinging while the cameras rollin. we get double the good fortune, simon's money and the knowledge the the other dude is getting butt raped for the next 2.5-5 years.

follow up: how is it possible to be in a bad mood and be a dickhead while surfing?!?!?!?!

I was finally able work a hole in my schedule big enough to make it out to the beach. damn that was fun...but I feel like I smoked a pack of cigarettes while surfing. Anyone else out at the North end around noon? Fun, Fun and more fun. Oh, and thanks to the woman was changing into her wetsuit in the lot next to me and just decided to "let em fly" while she put her rashie on. Made my day.

get out there...just wear a face mask.

Nah,e. That's Christy Davis. Now this one would be me from the same year. His is a bit heavier I b'lieve.

so it sounds like it's worth it for me to try to get all stealth and out to the beach before the sun sets?? hmmm.. where's my ninja outfit?? how am i gonna work this?

kdalle, I think Christy's was from 1996 but it could be 94 also. T* was a hot break that year.

Nice wave K!

Chritsty's looks a bit gnarlier. For the longest time I though he was a she, then I met him out in the water. On a day that was a bit more my size.

Parent teacher conferences suck, I don't need to talk to these parents, I need to see those other kid's parents, tbut they are in jail or work four jobs, they never show up, and their kids fail!! I wanna surf, reality sucks!!

Yeah, they do suck. I'd always hear the same thing, "Nate is doing ok but needs to stop talking in class so everyone can learn." If teachers weren't so BORING, maybe kids wouldn't talk so much. ;-)

by the gods i made it and it was fuuuun..

i suggest surfing..

bagel.. i'm not sure if that's what i wanted to here!! arrghghghgh!!!

lately i have been doing an experiment
when i bust outta work to surf....sometimes
i say i am going to "workout" others i say
"going for a surf" it is really amusing to see
the difference in reactions from folks.

anyone else notice stuff like this?

how much of the hooliganism at FT or SC
contributes to this perception?

if someone were to write to ratprick or
skinnypuppy's sponsor's and say, " i like
your products, surfed for 15+ years your
asshole rep bitched me out for nothing other
than surfing at (blank). screw you and your
stuff." would it do any good?

if 50 people did it? would it help?

sounds like a viable experiment.....
any thoughts?

it's too windy at the beach, right?

the wind site is down..

Nice response Nate! I like the way you used those quotation mark! Bravo! you've done a great job today. Now shut up and go surf.

blowing a gale...probably completely trashed. yep, trashed.

interesting proposition Korewin...

OOOPs I'm sorry mark should have been plural. Who can tell me what plural means, anybody, plural, anybody??

the flags look onshore here.

lerm.. what r u thinkin? i'm fricken itchin!!!

he he, sorry e, if it makes you feel any better i was super bummed when i left. also the south bound current was a bit crappy.. im thinking the same stealth mission tomorrow when i have my car if your down..

realistically, if we were to shun every company that has a dickhead riding for them, we'd be all naked and boardless, which would probably be really fun.
takin my new skate to this sweet secret hill i discovered by my new east bay house. stay away, you city kooks!

e, it's as glassy as a 17yr olds eyes at a van halen concert.

or my eyes in about 5 minutes

mine in about 2 hours

Mexi, your karma will be strong after tonight. I recommend a session tomorrow AM. Lerm, email on the way.

Oh, on earplugs, I can't surf without them now. You really get used to not having cold water in your ear... plus you can just ignore everyone since you can't hear them anyway.

with you on that dano...does make for some funny one sided conversations sometimes.

BUT if we were to shun and INFORM
companies that their paid dickheads
were making THEM look like kooks...

i don't know...those stories from SC
got my mind churnin'

and i'm from the east coast and slater
et al never chased me or anyone else
from sebastian inlet or anywhere else.

local burnouts at the point is one thing...
but paid pros vibing folks is another.

vote with your dollars folks. and there
is nothing like a serious nasty letter to
get someone on the hot seat.

now go surf. i have a class to teach.....

Good thoughts, korewin.

A nice picture by Van Gogh:

bbr was that shot taken at shark island? That is truely a sick skull spilter.

Was any one out today at about 3-6 hooting and hollering? I just want to say thanks for putting good vibes in the lineup. What I thought was pretty funny was the fact that I was about 100 yards away from a beginner (how did he get out) and I could hear his loud voice. People were looking at him like an alien. People should write to companies and say they used to use their products until a rider/rep yelled at them. Probably get some free crap anyway.

Ian,
are you referring to that anus Billabong rep? guy cant really even surf that well, but likes to yell at people. total dick.

-rip

Still here, have about 20 messages on my cell, no need to listen to em, I know what they say.

Ian,
My friend Mark is always hooting and hollering, he has longish brown hair and rides a channe Islands. He is super loud and yells shit the whole time he is surfin. Can be a bit annoying but he means well.

feels like fall.

so flippin' good at the beach this afternoon/evening. muther frick!

Haha, mexi, naw. he sounds cool though. This guy was rockin a hood and an older (shorta brownish) shortboard. At the beginning of the sesh he hooted at every wave that rolled through, it was awesome! Ripcurl, I've never seen that guy, I hope to keep it that way. Those are the funniest people though, the ones who think they rip, but have total poo-stance. Kdalle and Christy are obvious rippers. Pez, THOSE are bombs! That wave Christy is on looks like Mavs, jesus. Today I got a wave almost 1/3 the size of kdalle's. I'm really getting closer!

yo niceness heads, Newport Huntington RIver Mouth was going off at sunset today ...I know because i posted this on a NOr cAL sight that the dawnie is going to be a zoo.....well this is a test ya'll

That Christy wave, and the others from his old OB site, were mostly from 8 @ 20 days. He used to list their dates - he had a few of Ken Bradshaw.

8 ft @ 20 OB..

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