A slick of brown
I didn’t get on it this morning. Biking to work I looked back at the ocean and noticed that a huge swath of water from the beach out toward the horizon looked brown and murky. Beyond that, about a mile out to sea, the water looked its normal blue. Not sure if this was a shadow of a cloud or effluence from Saturday’s rain? Hopefully the former. But, other than the slimy brown color of the water, the surface looked smooth and inviting, and the wind blew gently offshore out of the NE. I spent most of yesterday in the water so if conditions are at all similar it’s probably purdy fun out there. Yesterday morning started out kinda lumpy and fat, with signs of a building swell and some sizeable walls. Occasionally the variables would line up and a slick, powerful, roping wave would present itself. Only a few other surfers in the water. As Lerm and I exited the ocean and then stood on the dunes looking out toward the lineup we saw a veritable parade of surfers funnel from various locations to convene at the same spot and proceed to crowd each other in the lineup. It began with one guy in the water scoring a few nice rides. Two guys saw this and then walked 200 yards down the beach to paddle out where they saw the ride. Two other guys then walked up from the opposite direction and paddled out at the same spot. Then a guy that I’ve witnessed yelling and dropping in on people walked over the dunes, scanned the lineup (many empty peaks on offer) and proceeded to jog directly to the spot where everyone else was paddling out and paddle out there himself. It was comical. Lerm remarked that it’s kind-of cool that surfers do that because it frees up a lot of space throughout the rest of the beach. An hour later Lerm and i were back out there and conditions had improved dramatically. The tide sucked out and heavy, barrelling, thumpy ocean beach A-frames pulsed in. Heart-fluttering drops on offer. Lips available for the crackin'. Lerm sliced and diced on a few glassy canvasses. I enjoyed one memorable sprint down the line of a hucking, heaving, chocolate-brown foamy beasty. surf!!
Earlier this weekend I lucked into a beautiful session at a low-key reefbreak in Santa Cruz county. Uber-glass. Shoulder/Head-high peaky swell. A few friendly heads in the lineup. 30 or 40 rides. Multiple lip-hits and chances. Guaranteed open face every ride. Jaws theme song. Baking sunshine. Underwater kelp forest. Some of the best lip cracks I’ve ever performed balanced against many kooky backside rides. Plenty of weak, slow waves too, which were still fun. Shoulders toasted at the end but mind screaming for more rides. Glassy, tapering sections.
I probably improved more during that one session than during 5 or 6 similar sessions at OB. Reef breaks with no crowds rule!!! Guaranteed face time rules!!!
Surfing.
not narrelled
backhand attack
bagel's happy onion
moochie
ha ha..oh damn i need to update that thing..nice scoring E! got a couple fun ones in this weekend..yesterday was real fun at smelly's and crowded..got to get you that drawing..
Posted by: bagel at October 25, 2004 10:36 AME-
Did you make a decsion on the bikini gals post? Good you got some surf, I didnt bother....
Posted by: pez at October 25, 2004 10:37 AMpez:
as usual, a pleasure seeing you at the "eight rows deep" gig last thursday night. sorry about the warm beer. spent the weekend in the shaping room - this winter's quiver ought to be making its debut in a few. outs.
Posted by: dave t at October 25, 2004 10:47 AMpez and dave t.. i was also at the eight rows deep gig. good times. I took some photos that i'll post up tomorrow. Cuties in the house. huge joints, cool painted surfboards, 1970s video of local waves projected onto the wall.. Videos of lewis. would've been cool to meet ya pez..
about the bikini shots and butt-floss and the like. How about everyone just self-regulate? Lots of thoughtful comments about it. Many for, many against. I'll try to post a "greatest-hits bikini comments" tomorrow.
Posted by: e at October 25, 2004 10:53 AMe, watch out for pez.. he's a mean mofo. haha. oh yeah, it pays to be frugal. While cruising the salvation army this morning, I spyed "Football Shmootball." For only $2.00 no tax! Veecos north shore film. It's basically a tribute to bruce irons and his glory on the north shore, but it's got the whole team. It also has Oska goofin around on a smaller day. A lot of Gavin Beschen if you're down. I saw the preview in SC 2 years ago, Gavin was BBQ free hotdogs and burgers. He's super chill and lanky. E, Jake, me and other lanksters have someone reppin. Bruce and all the others were too proud or something to show their faces and stayed in the RV. Anyway, rock on.
Posted by: Ian at October 25, 2004 11:13 AMDamn, big increase in the swell yesterday. I headed out to the beach with CK and we took our single fins for some mushburgers and the like as the tide was starting to fall. Upon first glance of the swell, I didn't think my 6'5'' was gonna be enough to get into some. But after the "$5 Challenge" was established, I had to go. Big, chunky waves on the outside. Looked like Wells was out there killin it on a longboard, unconfirmed it was him. Paddle was brutal as the 5-6 rows of whitewater prevented much forward progression. But, given the holes, there was room to get out.
I lost the "$5 Challenge" but I got a few waves before the wind really started to kill it. Nice to have the swell back up.
Posted by: Kaiser at October 25, 2004 11:14 AME, are you going to get a chance to post the new interview? They are always good reads.
Posted by: tucker at October 25, 2004 11:15 AMFreaky Saturday. Got out real early. Only 3 peeps in the water at a popular break. Fun waves pre-wind. As I was getting up to my feet on a samll left, I hit the top of my foot on the tail of my board. Stung a bit but no biggy. After that, I noticed a little stinging while kicking/paddling into the waves but nothing to discourage. Finished my session and started walking home-about two blocks. I felt a little swelling on the top of my right foot and looked down. There was a quarter-sized lump on top of my foot. Oh, well... Then after about ten more steps there was half of a golf ball lump on top of my foot. That made me nervous. After a few more steps it looked like half a baseball. Holy crap! My foot felt like it was gonna explode. Got home quickly with elevated blood pressure with wide eyes. Raised the foot and iced to stabalize the swelling. Took a quick shower and off to the ER. It seems I burst a vein on the top of my foot. Nothing broken. No X-rays. Doc says take Motrin, ice it, elevate it and get back in the water by mid-week. I suspected the problem but thought it best to get a pro opinion.
Thanks for health insurance. I'm sure that would have been an $800 ordeal without it. On the other hand, years agon when I had no insurance, I never would have gone to the ER for something like that. There's an economics issue here. Overusage of medical facilities raise the cost of medical insurance.
Posted by: Dennis at October 25, 2004 11:21 AMOB: out of town, but wait for outgoing and lookit winds, mabye fun could be had. Way more powerful than it looks.
early a.m. had the HUGEST discrepency between size and paddle outtability I've every experienced. Smallish, usually very mushy, big flat lulls and sections, easy to see channels. Great! Proved farking damn near impossible to get out. Incoming tide had something to do with it, but good lord. Cruised a couple of blocks south from my "reliable" channel on several attempts. Each time I got out and walked back the ocean was flat, mushy and laughing at me. Getting back in was like wading against a river of concrete. Ridiculous! So, uh, yeah, whatever the size you will feel the fury of mother Pacific. Water also tasted...tangy. Oog!
Posted by: s.s.sharkbait at October 25, 2004 11:24 AMDennis -- I had the exact same injury from the tail of my board after getting snuffed in a barrel. This was at Black's, before I had the key. I had worn sandals down, and couldn't put the sandal back on my hurt foot cause of the baseball sized blood lump on top of my foot. So I had to walk back to the dorms, up that cheese-grater asphalt hill, limping and wincing. Those who have surfed Black's will understand.
Look for the lump to lessen and turn purple over the next few days. No biggie, though. You'll be back in the water soon.
Yeah E, that was really weird going to the surf/art show on thursday. Good to see you there. I walked in, said hello to a few friends, and then zoned out watching the video of some sick Mentawais. Just like everyone else I was thinking, "Damn... how lucky were those guys to surf those sick waves? They showed one spot that I thought I recognized, and I said to my friend "that's one of my favorite lefts ever." And then there I was riding one of those lefts in the video! Too strange. It turned out the footie was from a guy I was on a boat with a couple years ago. I had never seen it; forgot about it. Pretty funny.
Posted by: lewis at October 25, 2004 11:35 AMNice small lines at Pismo in 1909.

Posted by: Nate at October 25, 2004 11:37 AMMaybe the brown stuff in the water came from the hundreds of port-o-potties being dumped into the sewer lines at vfw yesterday. From some concert. Great to know where that stuff goes.
Posted by: shak at October 25, 2004 11:38 AMlewis interview
Posted by: e at October 25, 2004 11:39 AMnorth end was pretty sick yesterday morning, the complete opposite of saturday evening which was some of the worst waves i've surfed in ages.
jersey:

Posted by: bbr at October 25, 2004 11:40 AMhaha sick pismo photo. replace the hicks on horses with hicks in lifted 4x4s, add a big parking lot and pier filled with fat americans, toss burger king wrappers all over the beach, and throw 100 sticks and 50 boogies in the water and you'll get an idea of what it looks like today.
but once you get away from the pier and motorcycle/ATV area, the beach looks pretty much the same as that photo. same shitty waves, same beautiful sand.
Posted by: bbr at October 25, 2004 11:49 AMbbr.. pismo or linda mar?
Posted by: e at October 25, 2004 11:52 AMbbr -- maybe those are the "free-thinkers"? Wasn't there some colony or something at the south end of Pismo way back in the day?
Posted by: robme at October 25, 2004 11:57 AMSaturday morning early, used my new car-ability to cruise past Sliz-zot where I saw other suiting up. While I like the idea of sharks having a selction, I opted for mid-beach familiarity and loneliness. I spent an hour and a half alone on a peak perfect for the longboard. The waves were breaking so regularly and over such a distance I expected it to have the light blue water of surf magazine pictorials. There was something extrodinarily cool about sitting atop the board while raindrops roiled the water surface. But the transient tides broke down that peak before I got to show it off to anyone. As the morning drew on a half dozen of us, including a sponger, surfed in the same area. No conflicts, good times were had by all. I suspect we also surfed with a few million of our bacterial friends, who hopefully remained in the ocean in deference to my lower intestine.
Saturday night Dick Dale at Brookdale Lodge in Santa Cruz mountains. Middle-of-no-place hotel reminded me of a budget version of the Shining. Small room though, great venue. Dude still rocks.
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 25, 2004 11:58 AMbagel's art rocks.
i miss those surf/art shows in the City.
We had NOTHING down here all weeknd, perfect beautiful conditions though. damn.
Posted by: Hb at October 25, 2004 12:00 PMsam cornish

Posted by: e at October 25, 2004 12:02 PMyeah robme, there's this place called Halcyon near Pismo that's full of "free-thinkers" AKA burnt out hippies.
http://www.beachcalifornia.com/halcyon.html
high tide pismo = linda mar. at low tide with offshores it can get super hollow though.
Posted by: bbr at October 25, 2004 12:05 PMLook at those shots of Lewis! What a fucking maniac!
Posted by: Ian at October 25, 2004 12:09 PM
Posted by: e at October 25, 2004 12:09 PMLEWIS FOR PRESIDENT!!!!!!
Posted by: j at October 25, 2004 12:25 PMbbr, I've gotten some nice barrels at Pismo near the end of the pier with the dropping tide. Most of the time it's Lindy though, closeouts and short shoulders that disappear too fast. Shell Beach holds up well with the right kind of south. The rocky bottom keeps it from closing out.
e, excellent Lewis interview. I really like his attitude. Be friendly and you'll get that right back.
Posted by: Nate at October 25, 2004 12:29 PMexcellent lewis interview. lots and lots of wisdom. should be required reading...
Posted by: rza at October 25, 2004 12:30 PME, Great interview with Lewis. Lewis-U da man.
Posted by: Dennis at October 25, 2004 12:42 PMsiiick Lewis!
Posted by: bagel at October 25, 2004 01:06 PMSC Weekend Report- No surf, no contest, rain, more no surf, men's final canceled, women compete north of town, by the time I get north, Lindy looks like victory at sea. Not exactly the most satisfying weekend I've spent, But some of da' women folk were looking pretty good. Extra points for the spring suit in October!

Posted by: Bruce at October 25, 2004 01:11 PMi have surfed desert point - when's it's been firing - and that barrel ride/descrip. brings chills. 60 secs, damn.
Posted by: cc at October 25, 2004 01:17 PMDav-
Thanks for the brews and the company. Your a good guy and remind me of why it is sometimes important to go to these events and chat with a cool surfers. We are too often a snooty bunch.
I was disappointed in the opening as I was hopping for more art. What was there was no doubt good, but just lacking in diversity. Met the Mandala shaper there as well. He's a cool cat and fuck does he shape some beautiful boards.
I was futher disappointed and angered upon leaving. The Juice crew was nice enough to have this thing which basically turned into a party and we left the outside of thier space looking like a frat house after homecomming. Props to them but we are some sorry loosers for not picking up after ouselves it was straight embarrassing and further example of how most surfers are full of it. Thanks again to Juice and everyone who gave my broke ass a brew. A finger to those who left thier garbage out front. There was a frigging garbage can in front of Kilowatt..geez!
Oh Lewis...your sick.....hope I fair as well in Indo next summer
Posted by: PEZ at October 25, 2004 01:35 PManyone know about knee injuries from surfing. my right knee unexpectedly flexed/slightly twisted while surfing a couple weeks ago and ever since it's been sore and unstable-feeling.
I'm regular footed so it's my back knee - it feels weak in the sort-of dropkneed position of my back leg during surfing.
Kept me out of the water this weekend and am seeing a doctor tomorrow - just curious if this is common & how to deal with it? any ideas would be appreciated. thanks a lot
Posted by: gb at October 25, 2004 01:37 PMGB-
From your description, that sounds like a ligament tear, but really it could be just about anything. The doctor will be the one to tell you if it it anything.
If you are part of Brown and Toland Medical group, try to get a reference to the UCSF sports medicine group. Dr's Cannon and Safrin are the bomb.
BTW, I tore my ACL, had it repaired, and tore out the repair. Both knees. This was from Soccer played on a non-grass surface. Gave up soccer and Ultimate.
Anyhow, just telling you so that you know it is possible to surf after a tear. I do it without the benefit of an ACL.
Posted by: friend #1 at October 25, 2004 01:50 PMgb - sucks about the knee! get better man.
friend #1 - no acl.. gnarly.
Christian - The next underground ripper i want to interview is that tall guy Nathan, who rides a blue epoxy pig board. He's from moss landing but lives in the sunset now. I think he knows you and he knows Alex. He fargin' kills it! Huge airs and giant gaffs and stuff.. plus he's 6'4" or something.. Cheers to the tall surfers! Not too many in the upper echelons.
Posted by: e at October 25, 2004 02:01 PMGB:
Sounds like it may be a lig. I just had my knee rebuilt this summer (skiing)... and have just started getting back into the water. if you're looking for a great dr. for a second opinion, which I would definitely recommend, go see Dr. Belzer at Calif. Pacific Med Sports Group. He actually understands surfing's impact on the knee and with an acl-rebuild and isn't as ready with the knife as UCSF (safrin and cannon).
Posted by: cc at October 25, 2004 02:05 PMTie together a couple of comments here. I was out surfing my Mandala fish for the second time a few weeks back and I caught the top of my front foot on the pointy left-hand pin. The foot swelled up, couldn't wear sandals, etc... I took 4 motrin every night and the eventually (8 days later) the swelling and pain was completely gone.
Posted by: steve-o at October 25, 2004 02:07 PMsteve-o,
how do you like the manny fish? what setup do you have?
Posted by: at October 25, 2004 02:09 PMI echo CC's comment on Pac Med Sports Group. I seperated my shoulder years ago up at Skagg's mountain biking. Drove to UCSF and got worked on and they wanted to put me under the knife asap. Decided I would wait and see the Pac Med Group and they said it wasn't needed. Suppose it depends on how stoked you are on surgery. I am more into giving it a shot with rehab first.
Posted by: kookdom at October 25, 2004 02:14 PMgreat interview with lewis...it does seem ridiculous to get upset about surfing as long as you get a few rides someone doesn't hit you or visa versa, its all for fun.
i am going to New Zealand in 2 weeks. to raglan and new plymouth to surf a little. any advice would be appreciated
-p
Posted by: phil at October 25, 2004 02:41 PMgod, wonderful interview. thanks lewis / e.
Posted by: robme at October 25, 2004 02:54 PMSaw someone out yesterday on a blue fish scoring some fun ones and he inspired me to join the fun. Good surfers make the waves look better.
Posted by: george at October 25, 2004 02:54 PMps - bagel - is that gianni's moochie?
Posted by: robme at October 25, 2004 02:56 PMI guess it depends on your experience. Dr. Cannon did not try to push me to have surgery. In fact he was quite honest to say that I would not have much chance of success on a ACL revision. He did end up working on my cartilege (debridement), but only after waiting for other therapy and meds to work.
Saffrin did want to do a high tibial osteotomy on me to correct my current pain and bowed leg. But he didn't push me or anything. He just said that he had had it done and it had worked for him. I ended up deciding to wait.
Posted by: friend #1 at October 25, 2004 02:58 PMPhil, check out the Gisborne area if there is swell on the East Coast. Its beautiful and can go off. The West Coast has a lot of good surf, definitely more swell than the East Coast. Its something like here, wind is the major factor. There is a surf guide in all the shops that is super comprehensive and www.surf.co.nz is pretty decent for knowing what's going on where.
Posted by: tucker at October 25, 2004 02:59 PMOne good thing about Lewis having a crappy job is that he gets to entertain us with some of his hilarious pro surfer editorial posts. Good on ya Lewis, and, of course, nice werk e on the interview.
Most notable thing about the weekend was getting hog tied by my leash. A double wrap around the ankles while getting dragged through the shore pound. Nice. Always a lot of fun.
A surf contest in October in NorCal is not a good idea.
Posted by: dano at October 25, 2004 03:02 PMBring it on!
Email address is LanceEA at Yahoo dot commie bastard.....

Posted by: Kaiser at October 25, 2004 03:05 PMif your leash didn't get your wrists, too, it's not a hogtie...and if you need proof it can happen come surf with me sometime.
Posted by: j at October 25, 2004 03:06 PMCool photos of Lewis surfing well. I actually had an "incident" with Lewis a couple of years ago. I went surfing north of the bridge with my housemate, and a shitload of other SF cats showed up. The locals were pissed and thought we organized an SF tea party in their waves. Some of the SF guys were hassling, dropping in, etc. Surf was cooking and everyone was in a frenzy to catch some.
A few days later, Lewis paddled up to me and told me that what "we" did was lame. I told him that I showed respect, and that I can't control my friends' behavior. He was semi-cool about it, but his "holier-than-thou" attitude kind of gave me the shits.
His entire argument was that surfers need to respect each other and crowds are getting crazy, etc.
I then hear he is writing a story about Ocean Beach for a surf mag. Hmm, sounds like this may lead to more crowding of our waves?
Lewis, you seem to be a cool cat and you surf well. Just don't go around barking up trees and no hypocrasy please. Respect and you will be respected.
Posted by: Kit at October 25, 2004 03:07 PMPhil, I picked up "The Guide to Surfriding in New Zealand" while I was there a few years ago. It looks like it is out of print on Amazon, but maybe you can find it used somewhere. Not a great surf guide (like the Stormrider series), but lists lots of spots. If you drive there, be super careful especially when making right turns. Any passengers should be paying attention too. I found myself on the wrong side a couple of times. Thank goodness for a co-pilot who noticed.
Posted by: dano at October 25, 2004 03:09 PMthx tucker
Posted by: phil at October 25, 2004 03:10 PMyo robme, that actually is my buddys dog from LA moochie..raddest dog ever, i have like 5 paintings of im..
again awesome interview of lewis by e..crazy environment to grow up surfing in, seems like light years away from my early days..
speaking of NZ just curious, does anyone know the proxitmity to the beach or waves that Peter Jacksons movie studio is? weda, its called
Posted by: bagel at October 25, 2004 03:25 PManyone ever use shark liver oil for joint rehab? Just curious to its usefulness. I may be the guinea pig.
Posted by: at October 25, 2004 03:29 PMGreat read, Lewis' interview.
The best leash trick is when it fully wraps around your neck. Tightens if you struggle underwater. Yes your board is trying to tell you something.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 25, 2004 03:30 PMand now, J industries in cooperation with Kaiser productions presents...
*****TODAY'S TOTALLY RANDOM, NON-OFFENSIVE IMAGE*****

Posted by: j at October 25, 2004 03:32 PM(it's OK, it's soy bacon, very inoffensive...well, except to your taste buds)
hey anon, for joint rehab try glucosamine chondroitin.
my $.02. refund expected.
Posted by: j at October 25, 2004 03:33 PMWeta, the Peter Jackson studio is in Wellington, on the south end of the North Island. There is surf all over down there although I don't know how good it is. Quite a few beaches w/i 30 minute drive though. Super fun town too.
Posted by: tucker at October 25, 2004 03:35 PMI bought a 6'1" x 2.5" with glass-on fiberglass fins. I wanted marine ply, but there weren't any available from the fin shaper down in San Diego. I also wanted orange resin tint, but it came out pinkish on top, so I have a little pink-orange board that looks funky but rides great.
It's amazing how easily this board catches a wave and zips along for me (6'1", 172lbs). The board seems happy to keep its speed without constant rear-foot pumping or direction changes. I struggle with rear foot thruster control and this board lets me enjoy surfing off my front foot. Lastly, Paddling is easier without that pesky center fin.
BTW, Manny recently relocated from Oakland to Santa Cruz and I have seen his boards in Freeline and Palm Surf Shops.
Posted by: steve-o at October 25, 2004 03:36 PMBagel, curious to what you use to paint with. Acrylic? Oils?
Posted by: Hb at October 25, 2004 03:38 PMWellington is a great city with great food. Reminded me a bit of the City.

Posted by: dano at October 25, 2004 03:39 PMhmmm...busy day here at werk, but from glancing through the posts (with a little linger on the second from Kaiser! ; ) i take it there's an interview to read! i look forward to it!
as for the $5 challenge...'fore folks get thinkin' that it was a challenge between the illustrious superman and i for first deep-drop of the sesh, while i had a role in the bet, i had no role in its outcome. get this...Kaiser rolls by to pick me up and while getting into his frickin' vehicle my back goes into spasm! now his vehicle IS a gas-guzzlin' SUV, but it's not THAT jacked...so...when my back went it sure made me feel old! i decide to roll with him anyway hoping that the spasm would subside by the time we are ready to hit it, but no luck. i couldn't even twist my upper body (and by the feel of things today, i'll be dry for a few more days still). however, the bet and the entertainment of watching the relatively few takers get swept multiple blocks south before making it out made it worthwhile!
loon...good bumpin' into you in the lot. hope ya scored some good ones.
Posted by: ck at October 25, 2004 03:39 PMThanks J:
Posted by: at October 25, 2004 03:40 PMWish I would have asked earlier. Just got back with my shark liver oil. Hope it doesn't piss off the landlord! If this doesn't work, I'll try out your suggestion.
any hope for the pm outing tonight?
Posted by: loon at October 25, 2004 03:42 PMnice to see ya too, ck & kaiser. only nabbed a couple but it was great to be out solo. i'm not in best shape but continue to feel confident on the rfs out there -- thank you dr's blake & schultz.
nws was calling for SE wind tonight -- any signs of that anywhere?
Posted by: loon at October 25, 2004 03:52 PMNice fake bacon.... If it were natural, I am sure it would be much better.
CK, sorry for the distraction. I put my email address in there for anyone that has issues. That way, when I get called out for something like my character, people can email me to set up a time to "speak" about it in a nice adult fashion. So, if you want to meet at the bike racks, I have some time available from 6:00 pm to 6:30 pm and then again from 7:30 until 8:00 tonight. Tomorrow, I am looking pretty open.
Just printed the Lewis write up, looking forward to a good read. Can't say I have been disappointed with one of E's interviews yet....
Loon, you get any on that Whatchamacallit Board?
Posted by: Kaiser at October 25, 2004 03:57 PMpez:
many thanks for the kind words. i agree with your observation about eight rows - high quality, low quantity. regardless, it was a good time.
there's another surf-themed gig this thursday at 111 minna. check it: http://www.cooleremail.net/users/wcgi/Tribal_2004SG.html
Posted by: dave t at October 25, 2004 04:03 PMdamn ck, that blows. I feel for ya. that was exactly what happened to me that day we surfed lindy. back problems are extremely frustrating. feel better.
great read e/lewis.
Posted by: jdz at October 25, 2004 04:11 PMthx dano,
i looked for that guide but coulnd find it.
no worries hopefully word of mouth will lead me to the promised wave.. i am a goofyfoot so i am dreaming of raglan
Posted by: phil at October 25, 2004 04:17 PMthanx for the NZ info! sweet..
HB, mostly oils, those heads are all oil..also use gouache quite a bit..not acrylic so much at all really..thanx for the props man..
Posted by: bagel at October 25, 2004 04:21 PMSunday guy on yellow board, late morning, awesome drop down the big set's face......really great steep drop.
More lady pics please
Posted by: hee hee at October 25, 2004 04:28 PMNothing wrong with Kaiser's posting that I can see.
And any comments made against his character are regrettable.
My comments were made to help preserve the character of this board. I have no hope nor desire to change Kaiser.
And I prefer to meet behind the Special Ed building for Adult discussions.
They can't smell the smoke from there.
Posted by: friend #1 at October 25, 2004 04:32 PM
Posted by: at October 25, 2004 04:33 PMlewis am i guessing right?
(clockwise)
1.up north
2.pipeline(?) or up north
3.mavs
4.ob
?
Posted by: at October 25, 2004 04:33 PMHey all
Thanks for the nice comments.
Also good to see a negative comment from Kit. I was getting a little uncomfortable with all the positive remarks.
I can understand why you're bummed Kit -- losing that Knight Rider gig must have hurt. And then seeing David Hasselhoff go big with Baywatch... it's enough to make a man bitter.
Posted by: lewis at October 25, 2004 04:40 PMJust try going left on me, bitch!
Posted by: Mavericks at October 25, 2004 04:48 PMI know its late for news but...
Congrats are in order to Trout, he got engaged on Sunday!
Posted by: ty at October 25, 2004 04:48 PMyeah trout!
niiice.
Posted by: e at October 25, 2004 04:48 PMFogive me, i am just starting to wake up from my long hibernation....you said clockwise.
Posted by: Mavericks at October 25, 2004 04:51 PMha, nice retort lewis!! that was comedy.
Posted by: j at October 25, 2004 04:59 PMkaiser's dad could beat up friend #1's dad!
Posted by: j at October 25, 2004 05:00 PMPhil, are you heading to the south island as well?
Posted by: NZ Swell at October 25, 2004 05:01 PMIn the north island, if Gisborne is firing it's the spot. On the east coast Taranaki takes swell from all angles and has a great mixture of reefs and beaches. There's always swell there, and you can travel quickly to a spot with favorable wind direction as the area is a giant circular peninisula. Also, Raglan is only a half day's drive away if it's on.
Forget the Wellington area, too fickle. Wairarapa (south eastern coast) has some amazing big wave spots but it's a long drive/hike to most of them. The far north (north of Whangarei) is a beautiful area, and you can get from one coast to the other in around 30-60 minutes. Kaitaia has some outstanding point breaks on the west coast.
Best beers: Monteiths Golden or Speights Distinction.
Interesting posts... The late afternoon is kinda cool you you see all that has gone down.
Lewis, we need to hook up so I can get some fotos... you charge!! Nice words to both you and E.
Someone mentioned the guy on the blue fish surfing yesterday, that was Jon AKA Kit, who may have posted the neg on Lewis. I met Jon in ZA he is a very graceful surfer one of the few guys I've seen who truely has benefited from the whole retro fad.
Peace
Posted by: mexi at October 25, 2004 05:52 PMI had a very quick ten minute 3 wave sesh yesterday, I'm illing, and after paddleing out it was obvious I didn't belong. I vaporized before paddling out and was too far out in another zone.
Phil I meant Taranaki on the west coast, not east.
Posted by: NZ Swell at October 25, 2004 06:23 PMThere are 2 surf guides available in NZ. They're both good, but I personally think the one by Wayne Warwick is the best. You'll find them at most surf shops.
URL for the surf guide.
Posted by: NZ Swell at October 25, 2004 06:25 PMhttp://www.winzurf.co.nz/co/com/wwarwick/
NICE interview, E and Lewis! Great to see such thoughtful surfers (especially when my thoughts out there tend to such heights as "yeah!" and "uh-oh").
Sunday morning I mostly had trouble getting my shortboard into chubby waves that couldn't decide when to break. Apart from general abilitylessness, I picked the wrong part of the beach, sounds like.
Storm's a-comin'. Praying for a good surf window . . .
Anyone trying to get rid of a fish or semi-gun?
Posted by: klooless at October 25, 2004 08:24 PMIt's all good Lewis, just calling a spade a spade. Not much bitterness in my blood. Just remember, actions speak louder than words, and no one has a choice of where they're born (i.e. local status vs. trannie), we just have a choice on how to act. I won't scold you for your friends' ill behavior and I expect the same, especially from someone who preaches peace. Nice surfing regardless. I enjoyed your Deserts barrel story.
Posted by: Kit at October 25, 2004 09:02 PMthx nz swell! great info!
Posted by: phil at October 25, 2004 09:48 PMHey phil,
two tidbits for you.
Action Rent a Car in Auckland.
09-262-2279
Frank Stacey will take care of you on the cheap.
p/u at the airport, a decent rig, local style.
Raglan Backpackers & Waterfront Lodge
Jeremy & Lynda Walton
0-7-825-0515
Great place to stay, individual rooms courtyard/backpacker style. "Waterfront" is more like stumbling distance to the town pub. It is still a 10-15 minute drive out to the break. If you have some $$$ research holiday homes for rent out at the point.
You NEED a car in NZ. Buy a a road map almanac for the side roads. There is a fair bit of microterrians to absorb in terms of wind/swell/tide, good luck!
If you don't mind the cold water, check out the area around Dunedin. Year round cold, penguins on a particular beach! Epic surf if you can catch it.
I bet a skinny NZ$2 bill that NZSwell has some sort of rip-cord return plan back to the motherland at some point in life. For a good reason too!
Don't bypass the Black Water Rafting. One of the goofiest tourist things I have ever done, funny as hell, bring your hip flask.
NZ is a 'do no wrong' trip, alot like Ireland. Too much to do outside of surfing.
Posted by: searoom at October 25, 2004 10:55 PMCheers. s.
It's funny how Lewis claimed a couple weeks ago as marginal and small! When I told my friends down South about it I said it was fricken insane. Anything over shoulder high at OB and I'll be down south, so me being in head high waves at OB had my heart pumping. It was also kind of humbling to see 1st season surfers frolicking in the waves. Anyoe else notice that?
Posted by: Ian at October 26, 2004 12:26 AMklooless:
Posted by: at October 26, 2004 06:25 AMI have a 7'4" Coffey if you're interested, made for OB, glass-ons, great shape, a little thicker than your avg semi.
chris@crossendesigns.com
Subject: Beach Alert for Ocean Beach
There has been a change in the status of one or more of the beach
monitoring points in:
Ocean Beach
Foot of Sloat Blvd Station - Posted
Foot of Vicente Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Pacheco Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Lincoln Way Station - Posted
Foot Balboa Ave. Station - Posted
Searoom you're damn right there's a plan for getting home! Luckily for me, my wife gets invited to attend conferences all over the place, they pay for tickets etc. So we accrue miles, and cash 'em in every year for free flights back home. 7 weeks this time, late Nov thru Jan. Hitting Rarotonga/Aitutaki on the way too. Beyond that, I'd like to be back there permanently within 10 years, but I have to say I really like it here; people are nice, beer is decent and surf is bloody good too. Having the opportunity to see so much of the country really gives me a love for the place, I think even when we settle back in Godzone we'll be visiting here every year instead!
Phil if you're heading to the South Island, I can help you out with spots as that's where I'm from.
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