Stormy, polluted water, no surf.
Not much available for local surfers today. A meager, lackluster windswell. A choppy, grisly sea surface. Grimy, fetid poo-water. A scintillating rainbow arced over OB at around 8:15, suggesting a pot of gold somewhere amidst the outer sandbars of Judah street.
Soo.. I’ll be honest and admit that I’m a bit of a surf-media whore. I’m still the guy that reads every word in every surf magazine cover to cover. Surfer, TWsurf, Surfing, Surfers Path, Water, Surfers Journal, Happy, Surfing News, BASEmag, Inside Surf (I miss that mag), Adrenaline, ASL, Tracks, etc. I wish I could get my hands on ZigZag (south African mag) and the kiwi mags which I’ve heard are cool. I’ve also gone through periods of intense video addiction. But… since ridding my home of television and internet my consumption of surf cinematography has come to a veritable halt. For years I was rabid about any surf information I could digest. Over the last few years, however, I’ve felt tinges of surf media overconsumption. Surf info burnout. I’ll go a day or two without perusing a surf mag.. But… yesterday after work for some reason I suffered the old jones and eagerly whet my appetite with the piles of wave-rich literature overflowing my cottage. The folks at Low Pressure publishing recently came out with “World Stormriders Guide Volume Two” which I purchased the other day and hadn’t quite completed yet. A bit disappointed to see Nicaragua in there. But excited to check out random-ass south-pacific islands like Raratonga (check it out NZ swell) and Western Samoa. Also surprising to learn about all the solid setups really close to Melbourne. I had always assumed that Melbourne surfers had to drive a few hours to the Bells/Winki area to score good surf but I guess I’m wrong. How about the Seychelles or the Andaman islands? How about Oman for a random-ass surf trip! Some amazing photos from Rapa Nui (Easter Island) way out in the middle of the South Pacific… possibly more isolated than Hawaii. Rapa Nui picks up some major swell and seems to have some setups that can hold it. Prehistoric stone heads gaze out into the violent ocean at certain spots. No trees left on the island. Yeah the Stomrider Guides might make any hardened, itinerant surf traveler cringe with its maps and glossy photos.. But.. in terms of inspiring wander-lust… these guides rule!
Soo.. then I cruised over my friend’s place, imbibed in some “Bom Shiva” hashish strait from India and proceeded to watch two Volcom flicks, Magna Plasm and 156 Tricks. Both arty, grainy 16-mm jobbers with inspired surfing and funky, crusty home-spun art scenes between surf porn. One segment in Magna Plasm showcases this ridiculous barreling left somewhere in California during the El Nino winter of ’98 (I think).. Jimi Hendrix “Goin’ South” blasts while insano surfers and boogies plunge into unbelievable lip-tossing gigantor barrels. (anyone know where that wave is?). crazy shit. The Gavin segment is awesome as that guy defines the lanky styly chill radical flowy surfer paradigm. Then 156 tricks I’d never seen before but Ozzie Wright kills it all over the place. Craziest moments as he and a friend pull into shore-dumping barrels and just get annihilated on the exposed sand. Ozzie pulls huge airs over dry reef throughout the whole video. Gnarly shit..
Then I fell asleep reading Marcus Sanders article in The Surfer’s Path about a trip to Chili with Flea and Barney last winter. Flea climbing some fence to get at psychedelic San Pedro cactus which the group proceeds to sample and enjoy under the closer-than-ever high-desert, middle-of-nowhere night sky. Stars reaching down to enliven campfire ruminations. Also it seems that Flea “don’t like hippies.” Shit.. I better avoid the Lane!
Bah! Now it’s time to get some work done.. enjoy the day!
Here are some photos of the Juice part last Thursday. (I had some photos of the beautiful boards, including the Manny fish, but my disk got corrupted on the way to work!?)
rapa nui
kinda cool
http://boss.streamos.com/wmedia/interscope/eminem/encore/video/mosh-rev/000_mosh-rev.asx
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 10:52 AMLooking like the winter 10 years ago (94-95). Rain marching through and followed by patchy sun, then more rain before the puddles were dry. Boy that was a depressing winter. Hope this one's better! :)
Posted by: Nate at October 26, 2004 10:54 AMI'd like to see one of those stone figures with a surfboard under his arm! A kneeboard, that would be more neanderthal.
Posted by: at October 26, 2004 10:55 AMThat line up looks like the new Miami Heat squad.Shaq is a local. Wish we had a center.
Posted by: golden state warrior hater at October 26, 2004 10:59 AMjapan earthquake
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 11:02 AMFinally finished Lewis' interview. I relate to the feeling of being so consumed by surfing on a daily basis and getting upset when I miss good days - I get the obsessed feeling that I remember so often from my college days. Why does surfing do that to you? Is it the thrill, is the competitive nature of improving, is it simple addiction? I find myself wanting more - there is more to life than surfing and life is about balance. Finding the balance is what life is about. Good balance - too!
Posted by: mare at October 26, 2004 11:02 AMyeah! Rapa Nui!! that is definitely on my list of places to go. i just finished a great book where the author visits many of the islands in the south pacific. he has an inflatable kayak and cruises to insanely remote places - some of which never see us white men. he spends a lot of time on rapa nui camping and paddling around the island. the massive surf there molded earlier generations into insane watermen. one tradition, the bird man race, has contestants swimming a mile to an offshore island, grabbing a big egg, and swimming back to rapa with it on their head. first man back achieves legendary status and lives a life of lazy bliss.
Posted by: rza at October 26, 2004 11:03 AMthe book is Happy Isles of Oceania by Paul Theroux
mexi, you were cracking me up how you vaporized before your sesh the other day.
Wonderin' how the vaporizers work/feel/taste/act?
Any of you City heads tried it?
Posted by: Hb at October 26, 2004 11:03 AM
Posted by: j'adore france at October 26, 2004 11:05 AMI saw a show on Discovery Channel or something about Easter Island. They had trees on that island for a long time, but they just overharvested them as the population grew. It's a cool story of man's hubris and eventual downfall - http://mysteriousplaces.com/Easter_Island/index.html
Posted by: steve-o at October 26, 2004 11:15 AMThanks for the shout out yesterday Ty. FYI - I proposed above Mavs...
Here's a pic of some San Pedro I came across in Peru. I think it was selling for 2$. Didn't eat it as I was getting kinda sketched out by the place and the only dude who wanted to cook it up for me was an x-con who later admitted to me that he had killed someone before. Hopefully it posts....
Posted by: traut at October 26, 2004 11:16 AMtraut's photo - if it didn't work above.
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 11:25 AMthat m&m video is intense. thanks, e. and happy birthday. :)
imho, the vapes is like freebasing herb. higher high, lower low.
Posted by: bird at October 26, 2004 11:30 AMthe thing about those is you dont taste anything so it dont feel like your smoking anything ask my girlfriend about that. it healthier though right?
wait is it your birthday E? if so happy birthday you bastard! libras!
Posted by: bagel at October 26, 2004 11:35 AMhb - vaporizers rule. we even have a pot club here in the city - lower haight- called the "vapor room" where the sick can get treated very kindly with what I assume to be vaporizers. The doors are always open, but barred and you can smell all the kindness just oozing out of there.
I tried buying one online last year. Big mistake. The people I bought it from were actually in India and it got held up at customs. I never received it and can now only assume that my name is on some sort of list. Please confirm Ashcroft...
Posted by: traut at October 26, 2004 11:39 AMthanks bird/bagel.. Scorpio actually..
yeah.. i don't really dig the vaporizer.. i prefer the age-old lung-blackening bong-ripping technique. no tobacco joints either!! strait kind please.
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 11:40 AMI'm exclusively vaping these days. Spend about $500 and go top of the line. The Volcano will do you right. It's commercial grade made by a medical device company in Germany. The others just don't cut it.
http://www.vapormed.de/
You got to be serious about your weed to go this route. If you are, it's worth it.
get wet
egp
Posted by: EG Pimp at October 26, 2004 11:41 AMeg pimp and his girl prepare to blast off.
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 11:46 AMe—the confessions of a media slut...me as well.
when i was a gremlin i read it ALL all the ephemera
the mags, seems that was all there was...now there
is a nice range of books, videos and mags.
the important thing to ponder is from whom is the
information coming. so many of these are industry
related or on the corp. dime. as long as you (and me)
and everyone KNOWS who is paying for the paint,
we can accurately assess the picture painted....
that discussion about slater and his kid a week or so
back reminded me of that thought re: the surf media.....
does anyone remember the articles in
surfer that discussed t. curren's "board experiments"?
seems that the maestro did most of those whilst
W-A-S-T-E-D. a drunken TC broke up his first marriage and
slowed his surfing quite a bit. BUT that never came to
light in the media....kinda sad. wonder what other $$$
generating surfers have similar skeletons?
HAPPY BIRTHDAY E!
Posted by: korewin at October 26, 2004 11:48 AMhttp://www.wetsand.com/prod_img/wavecastbook300.jpg
Posted by: Forecasting expert at October 26, 2004 11:48 AMTraut - confirmed.
Your name is on every list of potential evil-doers that we have. It is also on my personal notepad of future scapegoats.
Posted by: Ashcroft at October 26, 2004 11:55 AMYeah, i heard they are made for med. weed patients. So it is healthier for them. I am sorta old-skool on this too, don't want weed to run my life and buy some huge expensive contraption. I'll take my dugout.
and big ups to E on his day, mine was 4 days ago.
TC in the flick the State of S was a ramblin', looking depressed fool....but the b&w footage of him at R was insane.
Posted by: Hb at October 26, 2004 11:56 AMI just read that article on Easter Island. Very strange, interesting and sad. Worth reading.
Posted by: tucker at October 26, 2004 11:56 AMCheers E, I just ordered Stormriders World Guide 2 on Amazon.
Posted by: NZ Swell at October 26, 2004 12:25 PMAnd happy birthday E!
Posted by: NZ Swell at October 26, 2004 12:28 PMVaporizers are great - so clean you can't even see the smoke on the first few hits. Advantages- certainly cleaner rips than through a glass piece and it conserves the stash amazingly well. Disadvantage- since u can't see how big the rips are you're taking you often walk away not seeing straight.
Posted by: OB rat at October 26, 2004 12:33 PMI love my stack or surf mags and books - I look at them almost every day, but looking and dreaming of exotic locales just seems to piss me off more when there are no waves.
I'm a lo-tech toker. I fashioned a small pipe out of a piece of OB driftwood so the bowl is only big enough for one hit. The pipe is about the size on my index finger. Nothing goes to waste except myself.
Posted by: Dennis at October 26, 2004 12:56 PMThe Stormrider guides are great. I get to see and read about all the epic places i will never go to.
Here is to Square Barrels in my Cube
out
:(
Posted by: going nowhere at October 26, 2004 01:21 PMvaporization is pretty cool. Its kinda high maintenence though as you need to be near a plug (although i saw a head shop in the haigh that had a battery powered one that looked like a high-tech coffee mug). If you've ever smoked from a bong with snow in it? It's kinda like that but maybe a little more powerful.
Posted by: V70T5 at October 26, 2004 01:29 PMmy .02
happy bday to e and belated celebratory wishes to Hb! safe travels, christian.
hmmm...to be able to surf like curren...wouldn't that be nice...
Posted by: ck at October 26, 2004 01:32 PMdoes anybody still use the "gravity bong"?
you know the 2 liter in the vessel of water.....
great party trick....
yo Hb....will be in your parts over the
Posted by: korewin at October 26, 2004 01:53 PMturkey holiday...we should hook up and
test a vaporizer...or the waves or the taps
at your favorite local bar.....
How about the "Power hitter"?
Basically a extrawide plastic Ketchup bottle with a place to receive the end of a Joint.
Ahh the good old days when all you could get was crappy mexican dirtweed so you had to concoct such goofy devices.
Posted by: friend #1 at October 26, 2004 01:57 PMahh the days of "pedro's bumper"....
compressed and brick-like
Posted by: korewin at October 26, 2004 01:59 PMyou could kill someone with one of those....
but NEVER FOR one of those....
E-
Happy birth day you fuckin hippie!!!!
Love the Vape but you have to watch out to not put the glue/heat gun too close as it will burn the weed and you'll be smokin the thcless stuff which is muy nasty. vape is fun but it will slowly end up on a shelf. Hittin the crip in a sak,bowl or blunt is preferred
Posted by: pez at October 26, 2004 02:02 PM46059 - 12:50 pm 18.7 ft. 11sec.
Where's it gonna be mañana....
Posted by: at October 26, 2004 02:08 PMdood, it's your birthday? Many happy returns. October 26 goes on the calendar...
Posted by: robme at October 26, 2004 02:12 PMLet me also admit to being an herbal lightweight. This california hydroponic/military grade/NASA developed stuff kicks my ass. I remember back in the day when you'd hold in a hit until you turned blue to try to absorb as much smoke as possible. And somone swishing the lighter around the bowl was a cardnial sin, cause crap, you only have enough to pack two bowls amongst 3 people. Now you suck in one micro-puff and you're stupid for the next 14 hours and half joints get offered to homeless guys because no way can 4 people finish it.
Happy e-day.
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 26, 2004 02:23 PMI spent some time in Chile and looked into surfing Rapa Nui, the locals I spoke to said it is nasty there - all cliffs, wind and rocks, very foreboding, tough to find any surf. That and the long boat ride/expensive plane ride kept me from going. SHould have given it a shot.
happy bday e
Posted by: vons at October 26, 2004 02:26 PMhappy bday e. 95 mins until 4:20...
2 addl points for the vapo discussion:
- taste & smell are noticeably different. this alone keeps me from buying a vapo - at least until there's data showing that combustion/smoke from MJ is comparably harmful to tabac.
- the need to fuss with stash is increased significantly with the vapo. this is due to the fact that there is no combustion, instead THC gets released when heated by air, which means the only THC that can be released is THC that can be hit by air -- i.e., you need to crumble stash into fine pieces to expose enough surface area to maximize THC extraction. and the MJ doesn't look that different post-vapo -- potentially leads to paranoid stash-conservation thoughts -- "are we really done with this bowl? have we gotten all the THC out?"
Posted by: loon at October 26, 2004 02:45 PMthanks for the birthday well-wishes headies!
another year
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 02:46 PMe, happy b-day. and if you're in the office today you gots to get outta there! birthdays should always be mental health days!!
Posted by: rza at October 26, 2004 02:52 PMyes please
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 03:01 PMBack in oregon the Snodgrass Dragon Bubbler was the only way to smoke, one of a kind for sure! If you ever got to actually see it and use it, you were in for it.
Snodgrass on the right
Yo, traut, my buddy got my wife and I a custom chubbler for our wedding, complete with our wedding date on it and everything. Better put it on the registry. It got a ton of use in Mendo this last weekend ;)
Stokholm Syndrome this weekend anyone?
Happy B-Day to the long hair slanky fool. Never met ya' but Happy B-Day no less!
Posted by: kookdom at October 26, 2004 03:01 PMHAPPY BIRTHDAY, e!
you unedited horoscopesweartogod:
TODAY'S BIRTHDAY (October 26). Your surf guides you down the path of least resistance this year. You see surf opportunities where you never noticed them before because you realize that surfing doesn't have to be hard, that waves want to help you and that OB loves more than you knew before. Romantic times next surf season can turn into a solid overhead committed relationship by 2005.
Enjoy,
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 26, 2004 03:11 PMwhoop gads I'm typing like I'm vaporized, apologies
Posted by: s.s. what at October 26, 2004 03:12 PMHa ha... Great horoscope, s.s. sharkbait!
Happy birthday, e!!
Posted by: mwsf at October 26, 2004 03:14 PMhappy bday e...this discussion is taking me back. I can remember making bongs and pipes out of just about everything as a teenager...the best was the bucket rip with the milk jug. also remember "borrowing" some really junky looking shake from my stepfather that turned out to be pretty much nuclear. I have friends who i havent' seen for 10 years that will bring that up when i see them. but now i'm clean as a whistle...yep...clean as a whistle...
Posted by: jdz at October 26, 2004 03:31 PMBig and clean(ish) at Manor as of 3:45.
Posted by: NZ Swell at October 26, 2004 03:45 PMOne guy just tried to get out, couldn't make it. This place is always twice as big as it looks from the cliff.
Good option for those with the ability.
i have no idea how old you are bro, but pretend instead of helium it's marijuanair.
Posted by: j at October 26, 2004 03:59 PMSweet Post J!!! GET SOME WAVES BDAY BOY!!!
Posted by: pez at October 26, 2004 04:02 PMa joint a day keeps reality away...
happy birthday E..
Posted by: seth s. at October 26, 2004 04:05 PMhappy birthday e!
pb
Posted by: paul b at October 26, 2004 04:08 PMhttp://ktdid123.homestead.com/files/drunk_monkey.jpg
http://plastirock.free.fr/funfoxfactory/igneous_1/yoda%20on%20weed.jpg
woo hoo! october bdays! im the 15th..where you drinkin at tonight e?
Posted by: bagel at October 26, 2004 04:09 PMohya
Posted by: bagel at October 26, 2004 04:10 PMha ha! you heads are crackin' me up. that's cool. sharkbait and j... hilarious.
jdz - clean as a whistle. niice. i heard that ganja is legal in Marin county now. hmmmm....
I'll take some nugs for my birthday please.
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 04:11 PMpreferably like this one.
happy 30th e!
i just got the stormrider guide a few days ago, as well. i hope your peruse it as much as the 1st one i gave you a few years ago. that thing was looking purty ratty after a few weeks...
Posted by: drdy at October 26, 2004 04:27 PMHappy b-day!
Posted by: dano at October 26, 2004 04:29 PMdr DENIIII!!!!
that was the greatest gift of all time!! ('cept for my pops getting me an ipod). I've read that stormriders guide like 800 times. memorized every photo. that thing is rad!
DENIIII!!!! can't deny the DENIIII!!
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 04:35 PMgo e, it's your burfday
we gonna drink bacardi like it's your burfday
Posted by: fitty cent at October 26, 2004 04:58 PMAnd my pictures are bad.....
E, happy b-day, enjoy your gift below:
Posted by: Kaiser at October 26, 2004 05:07 PMkaiser... i'm speachless. seriously...
fitty cent - gin and juice baby. blunts up in he'ah.
Posted by: e at October 26, 2004 05:13 PMAnd The "Tokage" Swell is on the way
Posted by: tokage at October 26, 2004 05:17 PMStraight from AK
Late to chime, but happy birthday Ethan!
Posted by: Ian at October 26, 2004 06:47 PMHappy b-day E!!!
Posted by: dubby at October 26, 2004 06:50 PMI love this shit.... Keep em coming boys
Posted by: mexi at October 26, 2004 07:09 PMOh yeah and HAPPY FUCKING B-DAY E!!
Posted by: short term memory loss mexi at October 26, 2004 07:14 PMhappy birthday e! get bent!
Posted by: spike at October 26, 2004 07:25 PMNZ Swell
This site is maybe D+/C- reading material until you post your little observations. Then it turns to something one might overhear while traveling Castro street in the smaller yellow bus with the special kids.
Write it down in your little pink Roxy surf observation notebook/diary and save us the agony.
Posted by: key-low at October 26, 2004 07:26 PMk/l:
Posted by: at October 26, 2004 08:10 PMcan we just quit with all the whining about the content here? if you don't like it look away. what's wrong with admiring a tight ass? if the women post some of men to balance it out then go ahead... and if we don't want to look we don't look. scroll down. if your wife or kid doesn't like it then work it out with them or don't read the blog when they're looking over your shoulder. if your kids at school don't like it...what the hell are you doing reading this blog in your classroom? give them a test or something and face your desk the other way, duh.
alot of surfers and norcal people smoke weed. alot of people who have problems with "illicit drug use" are pounding the beers/booze or prosac and don't see the inconsistency. men like women. men like tight butts on women. it's way down in the genetic code so get over it. respond in kind if you think it's too one-sided or objectifying or look away. we have enough self-righteousness and censorship and psuedo-morality in this world these days so just save it please. no one is making you read the blog. you and ashcroft and bush can go to church and leave us sinners to our fun and you'll feel so much better when you make it to heaven so there you go.
Posted by: quityacryin at October 26, 2004 08:10 PMfeliz cumps, e!
scored some fun new england waves this weekend... hellz yeah
Posted by: gvibe at October 26, 2004 08:44 PMyo E, i know where that barreling wicked left is in Magna Plasm. (i fucking love that vid) Well, I can only assume judged by the background and video angle...but im hesitant to post it...so ill make some lame ass nonsense acronym to convince myself im not giving anything away..
marijuana or reefer releases oprresion.
rapanui or california? kauai?
Posted by: seths s. at October 26, 2004 09:02 PMi suck at that shit, but there you have it...again though, thats just my assumption based on what you video gives...how bout the dude that drops in but straightens out, with the wave behind him bigger than his and they both break at the same time......that video has a great mixture of waves....
Fuckin EPIC RIGHT NOW!!!
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