E's Surf Report

oh damn it looked like puerto came to fulton street this morning. the middle and south looked big and mushy looked like the north end was the place if i had any balls..i saw a guy get a real good tube on my way to work..

Definately watch out for the sarlac pit.. The sarlac term can also be applied to today's monstrous pit's available at local beaches. If you aren't careful the sarlac pit will undoubtedly devour the faint at heart.

So, who had been to Peru? Specifically Lima and North? I'm trying to decide where to go this Summer. I'll be taking a month long journ to develop my book of travels.

So what's everyone gunna be for halloweeny? I'm going to try and make a costume: bender from futurama. If you see me.. Hollah! Anyone see the new water? The shawnbarneybarron interviw.com is pretty damn funny. Good "Sprout" coverage too! Lotsa good reading out there.

I obviously never passed 3rd grade english/composition.

iM OUT OF WORK EARLY. Highly consider bailing to your favorite spot ASAP. Not a normal day. 19knt E Winds.....shit is gonna be sick in an hour if the winds hold

7'0 pintail or 8'4 gun kinda day?

Two sides to every story...

I read the interview with Lewis yesterday. Great article and some amazing pics. The Desert Point description of the barrel was insane. I surfed that wave few years back, and although I can't relate to scoring a barrel of that callibur, I enjoyed the story none the less.

I passed the link of the interview on to a couple of my buddies who live on the Great Highway thinking they would be interested in the article and especially the DP barrel story.

Both of them know Lewis from way back in the day. And although both of them acknowledge that he is a charger and solid surfer, they found several quotes very contradictory, based on their experiences with Lewis. A couple of the quotes are:

"treat others with respect, it comes back to you"

"I'd like to see dickhead locals cutting beginners some slack"

"there's a lot of people worth meeting out there these days, and most of us are still in our own little worlds"

Here is the email my buddy sent me after reading the interview with Lewis:

As far as I'm concerned that dude is a kook, maybe he's just been a tough guy with us cause we used to surf out on "his turf" But he's just a spoiled little shit, he was always holier than thou with us, always bragging of his relationship with VC back in the hayday of the twinzer, boasting of pulling ariels, and pulling major attitude in and out of the water. He grew up in Bolinas but went to school at University high in the city, I went to UCSD with him, I saw him out in the water at Blacks early in our days down there, I paddled over and said what up and he just blew me off like it was no coincidence that we both ended up down there. He kissed the asses of all the surf team guys
down there and just ate up the So-Cal scene. I lost the most respect for him on that day he blew me off in the water where we were both completely neutral, I was like fuck this guy, who does he think he is. I don't care if he charges, he's a spoiled little bitch, Daddy probably paid for all his surf trips and he probably never worked a day in his life until he had to step out of college with his good for nothing cognitive anthropology degree and kiss corporate ass that he is now so
self deprecating about. And as much shit as he talked back in the day, I would bet that that dessert point barrel was a pretty big fish story."

Now, I don't know Lewis at all. But I do know that my friend who sent this is an extremely mellow, laid back guy. I have actually never seen him express such hostility to anyone in my 10 years of knowing him.

It just has to make you wonder.....

Keep up the solid work E. Definitely enjoy your site and the positive vibes. Sorry if this post brings negativity. I just thought it would be interesting to see both sides of story/person.

id say 7'0 maybe 8'4 for the sets in the middle also fuzzy blankets kinda day

Ian - Ive been to N.Peru. Shoot me an email at trautster@hotmail.com with your phone number and I can give you the lowdown.

This Halloween, Im going as a bollywood moviestar. Finally get to break out my uber-corny dance moves....

Kookdom - Funny shit yesterday. I was laughing at that this morning while riding my skateboard to my truck until I hit an acorn and went down hard... Have you heard S.Syndrome yet. If so, please describe the sound (i.e. WSP, NM Allstars, JoJo...).

Any firsthand reports of conditions greatly appreciated today (Hoping to bail work) Thanks!

looks like its gonna start getting "fall" like out here finally!

PERU:
my wife is from Lima and i have been there several time to surf. basically it freekin goes off. time and travel wise you will get more variety in Lima than the north but the north is warm and has better waves overall yet they are father from each other than south Lima.
south lima has about 15 reef breaks and a couple beach breaks. about 5 are all time world class. the place is sick, like a mellower version of north shore hawaii. tons of waves can get really really big, mavs big. breaks all year long. our summer their winter is the best for size. water temp is like LA + a couple degrees, winter you need a 3/2 summer bare back or spring suit.

Hey Traut, you ever piece back your skate that snapped. I think it was you.

Korewin, there is an outside chance I'll be up in Seattle for T-giving, but probably not, we'll surf!

Don't fuck with the black felines either this halloween. That shit ain't right.

15 years ago kaiser beat me up at the bike rack for my lunch money. i still hold it against him.

23 years ago i pissed on my mom, but she's still cool with me.

people change, evolve, shiiiiiiiit this blog is starting to skew towards lame whiners.

fyi, it's HUMPDAY!!!! ahhhh yeaaaaah. bagel's dog gets jiggy.

*fyi, that's not really bagel's dog

hb if you're in seattle for thanksgiving you'll have to hit me up on email and we'll grab a brew. nitsuj at gmail dot com

my last post for today. the REAL bagel dog.

word.

Doof and I are planning a recon for lunch.

This Saturday as I have for the last ten Halloweens, I will be dressing as some well known pop/rock star, and performing a set of their tunes with a group of like-minded, and like-costumed folks.

Can't say who it will be this year. But I am looking forward to it.

Damn, still haven't read the interview yet...

Ok, so back to old skool reports from me.

Conditions:
As we all know by now, it is raging out of the E/NE, or at least it was early this a.m.
First spot check yielded something completely different then I exepcted.

Expected: Groomed, consistant, peelers. Reality: pissed off, mushed out, not doable.

Second spot check yielded the same result but reversed:
Expected: Mushy, crappy, onshore bowls of death.
Reality: Howling offshore, fairly groomed w/ a little lump, death bowls.

Third spot check: Didn't happen.

Local data as of 6:15 this morning:
sf bouy: 8.9 @ 11 sec
bouy winds: Straight up out of the E, 15kts
local winds: too early to get a report
local weather: clear and fucking cold
stoke meter: super high
chances of surfing: 95%

Reality: I bet people are scoring RIGHT NOW! This seems to be the first TRUE offshore wind. Standing outside my car at the beach, it chilled to the bone. Its freakin cold! But damn, it is grooming the hell out of the surface as far as you can see. The swell wasn't completely sorted out but enough to get some waves. Death pits as Ian described. I saw many. But, go with the theme today: "what you think should be, isn't here today..." Meaning, what you think is on offer a certain spot, most likely isn't. But then again, who cares, go freakin surf if you can......

In closing, the letter "E" comes in waves.
- E's Site
- E as a favorite intake pre party
and my favorite,
- E as in the winds are FUCKING blowin.....

Take the semi gun! My shortboard was doable at 6'6''.

Perhaps the giant waves moving oil tankers worth of contaminated water isn't my thing. But I do like the dp. The window is back open next week. Fall back, fo' schnizzle.

Monday
1 November 2004 Pacific Standard Time

SUN
Begin civil twilight 6:08 a.m.
Sunrise 6:36 a.m.
Sun transit 11:53 a.m.
Sunset 5:11 p.m.
End civil twilight 5:38 p.m.

5 days of dp should cost me $15 to Caltrans and $30 dollars to OPEC. I bet DPT will try to get their right-hand drive golf carts in on action as well.

"Slimy and gelatinous with sparse thick hair sprouting out here and there." E met that chic at Pittsburg's too? I could tell she got around by the burning sensations.

Thanks for chiming guys. Sounds dooooope.

Props to K for getting out there early, before it is known.

Anon: People change over time.

First true offshore wind.

October 27th...

Remember this next year in September.

Today's a little raw, late Sunday/early Monday is fixin to be a lot better.

One of my good college friends was Lewis' housemate at UCSD for a year or two. By his reckoning Lewis was an extremely good surfer (he said "Lewis is one of the best surfers in the water anytime we go anywhere - including some of the most competitive SoCal breaks when they are going off"), and a decent guy.

Everyone is gonna rub someone the wrong way sometimes. I'm pretty good at it, but I'm still learning from kdalle :)

Have a niceness day, don't get smacked down too hard by the waves.

thoughts for today

sunset home gets flooded by untreated wastewater on tuesday night
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2004/10/27/BAGL39H0LN1.DTL

Good surfers can be jerks to perceived lesser surfers, especially when there perceived envy involved. Dude paddles up to Lewis says "Louis!! BRO! We come from the same hometown and here we are at Blacks! Go figure" Louis is like oh God, not this dude again, hangs his head, paddles away. A good surfer might smell a kook, and maybe not give him the time of day, be it where it may.

I ran into an aquaintance surfing in Bali. He was an old roommate, and he was riding my board which he helped himself to from the pad (he seemed to think because I did not use it often, I didn't really want it). Truth of the matter, it was dinged and needed repair because I had loaned it to the guy, and he dinged it, so it got second stringered, so to speak, hanging on the wall for a couple of months. Needless to say, at Ulu, spotting him and my missing board, I did not lay any pleasantries on him. Later, back home, he happened across my worksite, and I grabbed his skateboard and ran. A chase ensued, we had a tug of war, and I gave up the skate a couple of blocks away. Later, we "made up", and he agreed to pay me 25 bucks for the board (I paid 80 for it, but since it was all dinged, he did not want to pay 80), but he never did. But people evolve, I moved on, hope that jerk is getting his. If you ever see a guy in Bali with a tattoo on his stomach, real small and scrawny.... nevermind.

Jerks in college sometimes become humble older dudes once the testosterone levels off, or the peer pressure and perfomance directive becomes moot. you graduate, give up the comps, smoke some joints...mellow out

Some guys stay jerks forever..Hence the yelling encountered in local lineups frequently coming from fifty something salty grumy mean dogs. Indimidating and disgusting at the same time. I hate surfing with people for the stink eye factor, and not being comfortable to enjoy mother ocean in my preferred spots due to the pecking order. So my solution is to not surf, except for certain stealth operations to certain locales in certain timeframes to get the jones filled without the baggage. Now I sleep late, and I miss alot of trains.

My good friend was a friend of Lewis. He told me a story about how Lewis rented a ski to tow in at cape blanco from this guy living in the state park there. So Louis tows into a few bombs and decides to call it a day. Smokes a bowl before getting the ski out of the water. Unfortunately he forgets to strap the ski down and it falls off the trailer while pulling out and it rolls down the ramp into the water. The thing had a big hole in the side and filled with water.

Lewis or (is it Louis?) took the ski back to the guy in the state park. "You fuxcking wrecked my ski brah, you owe me $5000!", said the state park guy. Louis was working as a lifeguard at the time and didn't have that kind of dough. Luckilly his friend calmed the state park guy down and explained that Louis will get his money "just calm down, brah".

Lewis tried to get more hours at the hotel he was lifeguarding at, but no dice. One day he had some luck as the guy who played Chandler on the movie North Shore came by and explained he wanted to to tow in, but needed someone to "show him the ropes".

So Lewis agreed to let Chandler tow out for $5000. Chandler accepted. Lewis used one of the hotel skis and told his supervisor he was doing some training.

On the way out to Blanco Louis and Chandler hit a migrating gray whale. It bounced Chandler off the ski and he hit his head on the reef. He almost died.

Lewis got fired and took off back to New Jersey as the State park guy was going to kill him. 5 years later he is back here (state park guy died of emphasima).

Seconding the request for info on Peru.

And Ecuador. I thought it was sewn up, we were going to Ecuador, and might spend some time in Montanita surfing, but from what I have read, it is a zoo, and not worth bothering with.

So we might go into Quito and check out the mountains then head to Peru instead.

Ian - I did some surfing in north peru about 6 years ago - good times. Trujillo is a mellow town and has some fun breaks nearby. there is a spot north of trujillo called puerto chicama that is supposed to be one of the longest lefts in the world. I don't know about that but it was a nice long left for sure, like 1/2 mile long rides. I went off season (december) and it was rugged up there, no electricity or running water in the one hotel that was open and I had to take many buses and hitchhike to get there (fun with a surfboard in the middle of the desert) but it was well worth it. Its probably more developed now thanks to spot namers like me. Not too big when I was there but great shape and the locals say it holds the big swells really well.

Story doesnt sound straight...but you ave guys know more than I do about the derelects(SP)out here...

who cares about people today any wave pics from this morning?

My good friend was a friend of this anonymous guy I can't remember how to spell his name. So anyway, he was like this rich kid. He gave all his money to the Bush family and went to Florida and opened up an old folks home.

Then he would feed the old folks poison so they'd die faster and so they could re-rent the rooms faster and get more money.

He showed up here a couple years ago broke and now he hangs out surfing the beach.

I hate this person I've never met, and cannot stand the thought of him ever being cooler than I could be and people knowing about it, so I'm going to write a lot of bullshit and I don't have the balls to put my name on it because I'm a coward.

This is so fun! Really enjoying the last few posts. I feel like I’m running for office or something! Anonymous snipers flowing the detailed character assassinations. Makes the work day fly right on by.

I probably shouldn’t bother, but oh well.

The general argument seems to be that I don’t have the right to suggest we treat each other with respect, because one time in 1997 I wasn’t friendly enough in the water, and before that in 1993 I was bragging in the parking lot.

I’m not some perfect ambassador for surfing. I never claimed to be. I’ve made plenty of mistakes and learned from them through the years. But I just don’t buy the concept that being unfriendly at 18 means I don’t have the right to be respectful now. Life involves change.

Fact Check/Personal Trivia:
(PROBABLY NOT WORTH READING)

1) I grew up in a somewhat localized surf community. Most of the older guys were pretty tough and stand-offish until you got to know them. It took me awhile to outgrow the shadow of their influence.
2) I did ride VC twinzers when I was 16. I loved the boards and probably did talk about them.
3) I could be a cocky kid. Often pretty introverted too, which can be mistaken as “holier than thou.”
4) I did grow up in Bolinas, I did go to University High School (scholarship) and then UCSD (full scholarship)
5) I was friends with the UCSD surf team guys, did the team for one year, and tried to make the best of my years in La Jolla. Although I missed surfing at home.
6) My first job was washing out wetsuits at Live Water Surf Shop, when I was 11. I worked there for a few years and used the money to buy surfboards and pay for my first trip to Costa Rica. I paid for my first trip to Indo with scholarship money. UCSD gave me an allowance to spend on housing, and I chose to live in a 4’ x 7’ strorage room for $150 a month. The remainder of the cash paid for food and Indo barrels.
7) I worked straight through my last two years of college at a company called General Instrument. It was like Office Space. I hated it but I wanted to save the money to travel. I saved up and spent nine months on the road – Tahiti, Fiji, Australia, Indo, New Zealand, Hawaii.
8) I do have a good- for-nothing cognitive science degree. It has gotten me a bunch of lame design jobs that have paid for all of my trips to Indo. IRS forms available upon request.

I consider myself really lucky to have surfed as much as I have. But it’s not some fluke. I’ve made sacrifices since I was 11 to get those sessions in.

And finally, yes, I know there’s plenty of better surfers out there. I just like surfing.

Remember to vote!

lewis,
a couple questions:

Did lifeguarding help with the transition to big wave riding?

when the ski fell into the water did it leave an oil slick? If so, what did you do about it?

how do you pronounce your name? lew-his or lou-ee?

What years were you at UCSD?
I was there '81-'86 (took qtr off + job = 5 yrs...)

I don't know why everyone is saying Lewis is so unfriendly. One day I paddle out at Sloat and I'm like, "Hey", then he's like, "Hey". And I'm like, "Are you Lewis?" Then he's like, "Yeah" then he starts giving me oral, right there in the line-up! How much more friendly do you need? Although I'm not entirely convinced it was, in fact, Lewis. And it may not have been Sloat; it may have been the corner of Post and Polk. But the important part is I told the nurse at the free clinic I got the rash from polluted water.

Cognitive Sciences RULE!!!!!! Hey for some people even speech comm. was difficult.

People tend to stick with thier first impressions. But good respons louie! Have fun today!

Lewis, I don't know you but fuck all these people on here that call you out for this or that.

Happened to me last week over some BS about something lame and IR-fucking-RELEVANT (I make my own words....).

Roll on doing your thing, you shouldn't have to justify it to any monkey typing in this here board.

As PEZ instructed, let's see some bombs if someones got some pics. Otherwise, I might have to post some of my inventory to get the stoke meter back into positive territory....

BTW, nice North Shore reference up top ANON.....

ob is servin it up today. get some if u's can.

I hate to weigh in on the Lewis for Prez thing, as I don't know Lewis and who am I to judge even if I did? All I know is about him is this: his interview f'n rocks, and more than many many things that I have read recently of all different stripes (and just about everything I have read of the surfing stripe), it has stuck in my head and resonates. Strongly. The interview is the extent of my knowledge, I like it, and he gets major major props for that.

Finally finally I would like to quote the Hebrew Bible -- I hope no one takes offense with my translation -- "Pussies will always be among ye, rejoicing in the downfall of the righteous."

Lewis has showed me nothing but kindness since i've known him. strait up.

In regard to the Blacks story, I'd say that it's tough to remain completely happy and friendly in the lineup at all times. A few weeks ago it got crowded where i was surfing and i wasn't having a good session and then a friendly fellow paddled right up to me and smiled and i kind-of said hi real quick, put my head-down and paddled away. Turns out the dude was 3to5 and i was the schmuck! Surfing is weird like that.. i think we all feel what the "local" blowhards express though we have the civility not to express it. When a bunch of people paddle out to where you're surfing, it's a bummer. It's hard to always be friendly, even though it's clearly the best way to be. The nature of waves as limited resources sucks.

meanwhile.. wave after wave goes by unridden at local beaches as we sit at our computers... hmmmm...

Santiago St. looks good right now. Glassy and clean. no one out.

hot topics.
i think people are just jealous of those pictures.
i am.
but... wtf. who cares if it's real or not.
i was in that barrel too. vicariously.
keep the stoke.
keep the dream.
be cool.
remember to vote.
remember to pay rent.
man. if bush wins and i shell out my 800
a month for rent in a couple days...
november will be a double bummer.

don't shit where you eat my friend.

I finally found *****! Here it is boys:

(please don't post maps of local Marin, SF, SMC, SC, crowd-sensitive spots - E)

NZ Swell I think needs to receive everyone's hate for continually posting names

Dude go back to NZ

lewis story #33748:
i was a fat kid in grade school, and lewis was the anointed fast kid. well all have our roles, i was good at the fatty role. well, i guess he was not so much anointed, i guess he earned the title as he was fleet of foot. anyways, one day at recess we were playing football. i was on my team, he was on the other, they were on offense. he caught a pass and ran it for a touchdown, my fat dorito eating greasy food lovin' nurnberg cookie munchin' pickle juice drinkin' ass just couldn't catch up to him.

lewis story #8873835:
my mom saw him at costco once and said hey. he didn't say hey back, just made a beeline for the hotdog stand before she could get there.

lewis story #73587:
i read an interview with him and he sounds like a cool cat.

(all of them are made up, except for the last one)

is there something weird in the air?

screw you anonymous prick! Go back to new jersey you white trash piece of shit!

I don't know this guy Lewis, but if I had to live down my attitude and behavior from my teens and twenties ... well, someone would've killed me a long time ago!
Checked the waves between 11 a.m. and noon. Big and beautiful, with a rather daunting paddle (at least for me) - good thing I had to get back to work. At the spot I checked the sorta rip/channel that's been there for the last couple of weeks was only vaguely visable - but still, it was the best place from which to get out. Only one guy picked it and he made it out in about 15 minutes. The other half dozen takers went too far north, or too far south. Those going too far south got denied. Those going too far north made little progress until they drifted into the aforementioned rip. By then they were usually ditching their boards and flailing.
I saw a couple of good rides that looked solid 12 foot plus. Tide's dropping. If I had and 8'4" gun that's what I'd use. But if I thought I had it for the paddle, I'm sure my 7'4" would do.

jimmie, i think i'm your neighbor -- are you at 46th?

I continue to be outraged.

Kaiser, you should have quit while you were ahead on this one. You opened it back up, so here goes:

What people got on you for was being too stubborn or too unconcerned to admit that gratuitous shots of nearly naked women are essentially exploitative.

Apparently you missed the real point. Friend#1 made it, in a much subtler way than I am going to, now. He also made the (now apparent) mistake of backing off when you started whining. I won't.

What people further got on you for was being so fucking shallow that you resort to a defense along the lines of "well I get enough reality elsewhere I don't want it here, if I want reality I'll go read yahoo news" -- which says all sorts of things about your mentality, chracter, and level of general intelligence, and none of them are good. Basically you are too old for this. You should know better by now. You're not 18. You're not a frat house jock. But you're doing a really good impression of one.

I could go on, but I feel slightly bad about kicking guys when they're down -- especially when they don't appear to be aware of the fact that they are down.

robme.. cool old-testiment modern-day translation..

NZSwell- is that really you?

for all the haters and angry folk out there.. please go over to aggroville

whoaa! it's a little wild on here today. which is surprising cause the waves are going off!!!
one end of OB is BIG, with great form and only a handful of dudes that made the paddle. the other end is barrels galore with only a few guys out. at least half of the waves i saw ridden had a dude slotted. i was hooting to myself in my car.
then i hung my head, drove back to the office, and began pecking away on my keyboard....

Watch out for these creatures in the water! Supposedly they normally frequent warmer climes but storms and a half-hearted el nino season has brought them into the bay area -- whatever happens, DON'T LET THEM NEAR YOUR FACE. If one attaches itself to your body, you're supposed to pour lots of Adolph's Meat Tenderizer around the edges of where it's attached itself.

wrote in a couple days ago about my knee injury - thanks for the well wishes & info. definitely encouraging. I live in the east bay so got a referral to an orthopedist out there.

anyway, thanks again

For Traut and anyone interested in live music this weekend:

Stockholm Syndrome (the independent, sat + sun) is interesting. Lots of different influences in the band. Got Jerry Joseph (Little Women, JJ and Jackmormans) who is pretty sweet and has a hard edge and writes good lyrics, Schools who can knock the boots off anybody with a bass, Danny on keys who is classically trained and adds a lot of texture to the songs, and then my favorite, Eric McFadden a genius on the guitar, master of the finger picking flamenco, mandolin, whatever. He just plain rips. I think the halloween show should be really good cause they are all kinda dark and shady so they should thrive. Going saturday and sunday cause I live stumbling distance and need some live music bad. Also Sound Tribe Sector 9 at the Fillmore, those shows should kick major ass too. And a saturday late night "aftershow" at the Boom Boom Room but it hasn't been announced yet, shhhh.

Robme - Great quote! Very appropriate.

Friend #7 - here is my email address once again: LanceEA at Yahoo dot com. Shot me one over when you want to challenge my intelligence level and the like. I'd be happy to sit down and play a game of chess with you if that is your thing. And yes, I will add "shallow" to my list of descriptions like white trash, SUV drivin, etc. Thanks much! And for the record, my statements weren't made towards Friend #1....

Keep the stoke up!

How about them waves today? Let's talk about those since that is what we are here to do right? Lunchtime reports anyone?

fuck why do i have to be at work right now? oh wait, maybe cuz it's my second day at my new kick ass job with free drinks, snacks, playstations, indoor basketball hoops, and after work beers. not near as fun as being in the ocean would be right now, but much better than the hell hole i used to work in.

tomorrow morning it's on!

E, no, that wasn't me earlier on, some weak little troll I guess. Cheers for spotting the difference in prose!

Conditions are still beautiful out there, though the wind looks like it's got a touch more north in it than a couple of hours ago. May turn right around later, dunno.
I reckon getting in the lee of a cliff is the answer today.

Hey E, The other day you listed Pez as one of the OB Hell chargers, maybe you should interview him next. I hear he rips in the big stuff.

cadaver - that's exactly what that beast looked like last night. how did you know man?

to infer character judgments about someone based on his affinity for the female form and his web persona is pretty foolish. Kaiser is a cool cat and anyone who's been on this board for a while knows that.

anyway...this is depressing...i mean i was used to people typing nonsense and bitching about this and that when it was flat and blown out, but today? surf news?...anyone? me and my still tweaked back (and, yes, i'm sorta glad that my spasmed back gives me an excuse for not venturing forth to brutal paddles) are jonesin' to live vicariously.

robme - no, I live on the other side of the park, near the old Alexandria Theater.

e...that's a good yarn...funny about the cats. When our 3 year-old was worried about "monsters" in the house we told him that our cats protected him from all the monsters. Seemed to appease him. On the other hand, my wife was seriously freaked out one night when she found the cat in our newborn's crib almost on top of the baby..."stealing his breath"....isn't there a Stephen King story like that???

I'm gonna drag my phlem filled ass down to the beach and see if I can't get some. Gotta give it a shot.

my friend just took this shot at lunch, getting a little blown out i think.

ck I can only speak for Manor, but it's firing here as the tide drains off. OH but not by a hell of a lot. Big lull between sets too if you time the paddle.
Hey ck did you see the Tri Nations? SA (you're a Springbok supporter eh?) dominated, awesome to see them back and playing so well. My home town (Canterbury) won the NPC final last weekend totally dominating Wellington in a real thriller too. All good news.
For those who don't know what the hell I'm talking about, it's the real game... rugby!
Actually I've been surprised how many folk here play or played the game, seems to have a lot of support in universities.

ha ha jk this one
i bet

When I was a teen, Lewis decapitaed my mother and sodomized my cat. I carry the mental scars to this day but I think that I am finally ready to forgive him. I love you Lewis! I really enjoyed reading your interview.

E.- got the new MG water tight? Are you taking Friday off again?

For what it is worth, in April Lewis posted a room for rent on E's... I was the lucky dude who scored it. Lew is a total bro and a stand-up guy who lives to his ideals as much as he can. I don't know what he was like when he was 18, (I know I had a chip or two on my shoulder back when I was that age), but I can vouch for him now.

One of my favorite things I like about E and his site is how he injects positive vibes into the surf community and this blog while never going "holier than thou" and acknowleging that we all have bad days.

There is this Buddhist meditation practice where one visualizes taking in all of the negativity around them, processing that energy with breath and in turn giving out pure positive energy and light. E, imho you seem to live that out, man. Thanks you old sob.

more hot babe pics to break up the whining! if you don't like it look away. what's wrong with admiring a tight ass? if the women post some of hot dudes to balance it out then go ahead... and if we don't want to look we don't look. scroll down. if your wife or kid doesn't like it then work it out with them or don't read the blog when they're looking over your shoulder. if your kids at school don't like it...what the hell are you doing reading this blog in your classroom? give them a test or something and face your desk the other way, duh.

men like women. men like tight butts on women. it's way down in the genetic code so get over it. yes we have developed fore-brains and cognitive reasoning and "social norms" have emerged from that but haven't we all figured out how fucking stupid the whole PC thing is yet? no one made the reef girls go up on the stage nor the other hotties wear a thong to the beach.

respond in kind if you think it's too one-sided or objectifying or just look away. we have enough self-righteousness and censorship and psuedo-morality in this world these days so just save it please. no one is making you read the blog. you and ashcroft and bush can go to church instead and pray for forgiveness since you looked and leave us sinners to our fun; you'll feel so much better when you make it to heaven so there you go.

p.s. i'm ranting because i'm a thousand miles away and i don't got the sack for that paddle out anyways.

ck -- it was gettin' bigger and hollower when I left around half past noon, just starting to break more top to bottom. (It was a little mushier when I was out.) I haven't look at a tide table in forever. But, I had a 7'5" and thought that was kinda overdone -- sure 'nuff Christian and Alex walked up with 6'4"s. There were no takers in the usual no-takers spot, lots in front of the chalet, a handful in the real S, and that's where I saw some pretty, unridden ones.

Kaiser / E -- glad you like the quote. (Props to my east texas grandma for learnin' me the good book.) The saying certainly would apply if anyone ever started sniping at either of you -- not that would ever happen, certainly not on here on this board!

hey lewis,

is the ski/whale/Gregory Harrison story true?

I agree with bagel. It's totally firing down by the Cliff House.

Got denied the lunch surf.

Friend #1 got out.

Oh, the humanity of it!

Surf..yes! OB from what I can see is sloppier but still fickle, fickle bombs lurching in on occasion: you gots crunchy bombs, mushy bombs, combo bombs, you name it. Rides are few but epic. The inside of course is a complete wreck and 10,000 caloric effort skunking is the name of the day. The few peeps around these parts today seem to have snuck out via a much farther north or south channel [ or "channel", damn them ] and drifted. It is incredibly crowded w/2 tiny black dots currently chasing down some beasts. Sticking long haired-head out the window indicates slight but changeable breeze - from light NE to nada to perphaps N slight onshore. Wave size all over the farking map, I'm not even going to bother guessing. Sunny w/ south haze and a few puffy clouds N.

Congrats all who can surf this stuff. Me...maybe if the fecal count wasn't so dubious, a boogie board and no shame on the far inside. Great, silly exercise. For you actual surfers, have fun and Cheers,

DP was sick mid-beach;

Definitely bigger than I'm used to recently; Got a bit of a beat down on the way out and after each wave I grabbed.

Need more paddle strength.

I believe what initially kicked off the "Kaiser is a _____ " debate was the fact that someone got caught looking at a surf blog at work. From than others read the tealeafs and jumped on the dogpile, making the stretch that "because Kaiser posts pictures of half naked women he must be a/an _________" and furthermore he "________".

1) You read the internet at work, you risk seeing things unfit for work, ESPECIALLY when you work at a school
2) To make the assumption that someone who admires the female form is a (womanizer, exploiter, jackass, whatever) is very 'bay area'(yes, I'm a tranny - not in the SF since of the word - and yes I think 9 out of 10 people raised in the bay are too PC and soft, especially the fellas. Anybody have a strong male role model in their lives that grew up here?).
3) The person from which the initial complaint later realized the follies of his ways and said that he actually enjoys Kaiser's post and for him not to change, that he will just read the blog at night (I believe that was his follow-up post a day later)

Please let it die. Character attacks are lame, especially when you post anonymously. If you have issues with the masked man that longs for thong he's posted his email address for you to handle appropriately. Let's not clog this blog with anymore bullshit.

Thank you, and have a niceness day.

Call just received: it is still ON out there! Barrel witnessed by the caller and communicated.

If you can, GO!

Glad to hear some are getting a chance to get some out there! Let's hope the positive stays that way and the winds stay in the positive E direction.

Dang... it's just starting to go onshore. Very light though.

all the whiners, bitchers, etc. you need sum dis

now, ya feelin' it. iiiiriiie and respect to those who put on a wetty up north today.

more Mr. Doof-like posts=niceness

Perhaps I should clarify a little:

I was not denied the lunch surf paddle, just the surfing part.

VFWs would have been a much easier paddle, but no, I had to try XXXXXXXX.

Mr Doof there's a lot of that going around today I'm sure. Sometimes you can just miss the out by a second or two while your cobber makes it. Good exercise if nothing else. On ya for giving it a crack!

E- Thanks for posting the pics. Sorry to say the shots have been pretty lame lately. Damn work is cutting into my surfing/photography. But I've told my boss that I'm disappearing if OB goes postal. Open invitation to Christian and the other superheros- your personal organic photographer will be there if you let me know when it goes off. E, CK and Kaiser have my cell.

Bagel- That's Michael from Bernal Heights. Drives a blue club cab pick-up truck and is a super niceness kind of guy.

Lewis- I did a couple of grad degrees in psych. Wondered why later on, but the education turned out to be really helpful later in career. Hope you have the same experience... I wouldn't write it off yet. And good on ya for not going off on these anonymous posts. Anything we did before our mid-twenties should be off limits.

a totally non-offensive shot of women

Hey everybody, wake the fuck up!

ANNOUNCEMENT: The waves currently do not suck.

So what's with all the fighting, eh? Sheesh.

Blakestah - this is the first true offshore (with size), we've had some offshore days earlier this season. I know because I missed surfing them.

Friend #7 - Thanks for calling me a Pussy.

Kaiser - He does have a point though. Comparing the ribbing of last week to the out right Character Skull-fuck recieved by Lewis this week?

CK - My assasination attempts on Kaisers Character where just that. They had very little to do with his Butt-posting prediliction. I regret those attempts, but I do not regret the points I made on the Butt-posting issue.

Lewis - I have never met you, but from what I have read, you seem like a good guy. I liked your interview.

E - Happy day after your Birthday.

Everyone else - Surf is harder to get to then it looks from the beach. I got out in about 20 minutes, then took another 20 getting my bearings and figuring out where to be in this size waves. I catch one short ride. Then I really know where to be. But I get caught inside by a set, and I get dragged all the way in under four waves that I bail under. Then I give it a 5 minute shot at getting back out, realize it is pointless, and go in. Damn, I am out of shape.

Winds are building and out of the NW down in SC right now.

If you like watching stock car crashes, you probably can stomach watching this video -
http://www.muchosucko.com/video-hawaiiansurfingbeatdown.html

NZ Swell and robme...thanks for the updates. sounds so fine! nice work gettin' some. thanks, NZ, for the update on the 'boks! (one of these days i gotta step up and get coverage so that i can actually watch the odd match!) i'm very psyched! congrats to your lads, as well!

friend #1, ss, and others....i realized, after my prior post, that i wasn't reading the "refreshed" blog. i've just read your surf-related posts. very nice. that's what i'm talkin' about!! good to hear of folks chargin' it and bringin' it to us cube-bound kids.

shutup ck!
shutup kaiser!

that video...gnarly. that guy is persistent. hard to tell who threw the first punch, but to me it reeks of a nice lawsuit.

btw...friend #1...my comment wasn't directed at you. you made your point about the butts (a legit perspective) and retracted comments about Kaiser's character. all is cool by me.

look, Mr. proliferation poster j....if you're lookin' for a rumble at the bike racks you're lookin' in the right direction! are you lookin' at me?!

alright...no more posts outta me (and no...i'm not scared of that j guy! ; ). i gotta get back to that thing that i'm supposed to do while i'm in this here cube...

I never thought that when I grew up I would be in a band
And travel all the best spots in the land I’m not here
To brag or boast I’m here to
Tell you ’bout the spots that I love the most
Natural bridges on a clean
West swell breaks over the reef like a bat out
Of hell stockton ave gets
Hollow and mean and on a big day it works like
A machine outside
Stockton gets hot like a glove swift st john st into
Mitchell’s cove big
Steamer lane makes you wish you were a trout when
It’s mackin’ so hard
Only two dudes paddle out
A huge summertime south swell hit when I’m in
My hometown in a surfside bowl is
Where I can be found or up and down
The coast checkin’ the spots that I love the most

stumped

i dont gamble but i bet
im gonna die if i dont get a cigarette

just because i always play the mack
put the monkey on my back

i put brad newell from sublime in the "genius who died too young of a drug overdose" catagory along with janis and jimi and jim morrison, i think they were all 26. wo man.

i got a first hand account that it was going off and i missed it and it wasnt so crazy at the north end..

Fark.

I hope niceness folk are getting epic glassy tubing rides right now.

Well, part of me is: the part that wouldn't be furious with envy.

A very, very small part.

Sadly, we lost sight of the purpose of this SURFING bulletin board: to talk about Halloween. Based on my hours of internet research, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be a reef girl in a thong or some other wife safe/middle-school unsafe porn.

Here is the latest on my costume (I apologize if that is someone's mother.):

1949 May 7. On back: "SAN FRANCISCO: These hot days don't bother these two nurses from the Veteran's Hospital at Fort Miley here as long as they have the nearby Pacific to cool off in. Frolicking in the surf near famed Seal Rocks are Lotte Paalman, 23 (L), and Louise Palmieri, 23."

I think my grandpa took that pic!

Lewis - We definitely crossed paths in SD. I was also a cog sci major during my stint at UCSD. And hung out with Rashe and the surf team (although never was on the team). Did you know the Moes twins from Santa Barbara? Trying to remember some of the other heads from those blurry days. We'll have to hook up some time over beers/waves and figure it out.

Nice article/interview btw.

Jeesh ck, youre a springbok fan?

Well, at least your a rugby fan- didnt know that. did you play?

There are places to watch the games here in sf. Northbeach a place right up the street from Bimbo's on Columbus. Cant miss it...there is a big sign that says SF's home of Rugby.

Also, Kesars on Stanyon across from the old stadium. They show games live! but ya gotta stay up late or get up early for those.

later,
northbeach

The other E getting on it:
http://www.gnn.tv/videos/viewer.php?id=27&spd=hi

Here's what I think about you surfers and your "environment":

(note: unedited picture)

WE can't have the page end like that, East Coast is firing and the water is still warmer out here then out there. When I say firing it doesn't compare to what you guys have pumping out there, still good east coast surf. Happy belated b day E and keep the halloween stories coming.

Girl is deathly afraid of cats. Well someone states the obvious and suggests some counseling. Unfortunately, this would not work out as the girl is afraid the counselor might have a cat...

Good day at the beach! Took some pics when I got in. Here's one for you. Hey Pez, did you get any today.

Try it again

Ferguson, Wherry beaten, robbed on surf odyssey
By Rob Coppolillo
Special to VeloNews.com
This report filed October 25, 2004
What began as an off-season surf odyssey nearly ended in tragedy when thugs attacked Chris Wherry and Walker Ferguson on a remote beach in Mexico during the first week of October. The duo left Boulder, Colorado, September 20 in Ferguson's customized Toyota van, heading towards warm weather and Pacific-side swells on mainland Mexico. Nearly two weeks into the trip, however, things went awry.

"We left Boulder and drove south," Wherry said. "It had just snowed and all the high peaks had snow on them. The leaves were changing and it was an insane backdrop."

The pair spent an evening visiting Ferguson's family in Norwood, Colorado, near Telluride. From there they passed Durango and Tucson - where they stayed with teammate Mike Sayers - before crossing into Mexico on September 25. They drove as far south as they could that day, and soon angled towards the coast in search of waves.

"We surfed for three days, just north of Mazatlan, but it was pretty small so we went further south," recalled Wherry.

Along the way they camped in a lightweight tent, enjoying the Sinaloan coast and relatively good living, save for the aggressive mosquitoes. As they neared Sayulita, a town well-known for good surfing and a popular destination for American travelers, the trip took a turn for the worse.

Wherry, who just returned to the United States, recounted the events of the attack as best he could. "It was around October 2 or 3, I don't exactly remember. We were just north of Sayulita, in a little town called Chacala. It was tiny, maybe 50 people living there. At about four o'clock in the morning, these guys start shouting and before I know it someone's unzipping the tent.

"We couldn't understand what they were saying and then one guy just held Walker down by the neck and three guys dragged me out of the tent. One of them hit me in the face - I think that's where I got my black eyes." Wherry also sustained bruised ears, cut lips and bruised ribs. The slightly built Ferguson, meanwhile, remained in the tent with one of the attackers forcefully applying a choke hold.

"These guys tried to tie me up, but they had these shitty little pieces of rope," Wherry continued. "Eventually one of them left me and went to help tie up Walker. I punched one of them in the balls right then and started running, but it was dark and I ran towards the beach. When I hit the deep sand they tackled me from behind, and that's when one of them kicked me pretty hard in the ribs. I was winded and they dragged me to the car."

By now two of the assailants had heaved Ferguson into the rear of his van and the other two brought Wherry to the rear as well, and threw him in.

"When they tried to put us in the car, that's when we started kicking our way out," said Wherry. "I just kicked one of them in the chest and he sort of crumpled. There was a hole there, where he was, and I just got through it and started running. We were within 50 meters of the ‘downtown' in this little town. I went into this little restaurant and riled up this old man with a machete. What I learned is that all those old men down there sleep with a machete!"

Ferguson had escaped just after Wherry and followed.

"This old man and about six others walked back to the car with us - all of them had machetes. I guess the guys just panicked and grabbed what they could. They got our wallets and my camera," Wherry said.

"We called the cops, but it was like 45 minutes before they came. The people in the town were pissed because this has happened a few times recently. The closest police station is 15 or 20 k away."

Mexican police took a statement, but there was little hope of apprehending the men. Often, assailants hope to abduct travelers, steal their driver's licenses and attempt to enter the United States with their victims' vehicles and documents.

"You know, I wish this had happened to me a lot earlier, it's really made me think and realize how lucky I am," said Wherry, the 1996 amateur national champion and winner of the 2002 Saturn Classic, who plans to relocate to Durango, Colorado, in mid-November. "I'm happy to be home, just hiking, chillin' in Boulder, waiting to get my house in order down in Durango."

Ferguson, who sustained only minor bruising in the attack, decided to continue his voyage and will eventually head north in November, when he'll meet his parents in Baja. He has no plans to race in 2005 and is looking at it as a year off. Ferguson won the junior world championships in cross country in 2000, in Sierra Nevada, Spain.

Neither Wherry nor Ferguson were hurt seriously or have lasting injuries. No photographs of the trip survive.

"Man, it could've been a lot worse," Wherry said. "It's really motivated me in a way, and I met some incredible people because of it."

gnarly...

Last Post Honors?
A 'Boogie Riding Bastard' from some sort of roofing company exited from the s. end of the beach this early am exclaiming, "Man, where was everybody...?"
Indeed.
THAT bastard was rippimg some serious outside peaks as Mr.Yellowgun and I scrambled to wetsuit-up and get our asses out there. EZ paddle with the A-Frame peak divergence. That is...once you made it through the 125 yard "stretch o'pain". Am I nuts or has has 43rd-birthday-super-surf-bonanza swept away the fear of 'super-hold-down'?
Point being, respect out to OB and patiently waiting for the conditions to meld and for the god of Lono allowing for a sub 30 minute paddle out this am.
See you next: wind/swell/tide/weather/personal+professional timeframe opening and a pinch of luck opportunity...
S.
and...NZ Swell, your opinion and obvious wave knowledge + observations are appreciated.

thats a nice shot surfdog!

wow, nice shot dude

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