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Lumpy head-high slabs

Much smaller than yesterday, but still fun and solid.

Lumpy head-high slabs.
Barrels on hand.
Not too crowded.
Chalky/putrid smell to the water.
Funky rips and currents.
No wind.
Thick, chunkified caverns.
Steep drops.
Chilly post-eclipse morning.
Spellbound feathering lips.
Smooth regular-foot scoring multiple VFW barrels.
Super-fun ledging drops!! (I love those!)
Shreddable possibilities for the quick and able.
Relatively mellow on the pounding scale.
Water warmer than air.
Racy walls if you get in behind the section.

Pictures from yesterday make me a believer.

Walker sent these photos of OB, taken 10.27.04
niceness

niceness

niceness

niceness

Surfdog posted this pic of OB, also from yesterday. Niceness for whoever that is droppin' in.
niceness


nice session this a.m.

SO BUMMED could not flex the schedule
for yesterday afternoon...
saw video and got the report from elias
of large LARGE walls and rippin good fun
on his new gun....another crouch special...
yee haw.

had my own first time on a bonzer 5
this morning...and after getting used
to the 7'0" that is 18 inches wide...
i am a BELIEVER! they hold speed through
the turns like nothing i have ever ridden.

eager for another turn....good to see some
of the familiar faces out there this morn...
cheers.

Posted by: korewin at October 28, 2004 10:23 AM

frickin' sweet sounding score, fellas!! korewin...i can't wait to see that bonzer. sounds too fine! solid pics from yesterday. fark!

Posted by: ck at October 28, 2004 10:25 AM

yeti surfing game

Posted by: e at October 28, 2004 10:28 AM

I darted out of work at 3:30 yesterday in hopes of getting some of what was being reported. NOPE! Winds turned onshore, and swell dropped significantly. Watched my determined friend try to get to the outside of Slizzle, but no dice. How does it always work like this? I miss it, while sitting in a f'ing cubicle, reading about what I dream about. Nice picutres. I am also now a believer!

Posted by: at October 28, 2004 10:39 AM

sweet game!! i'm calling it quits after playing for 5 minutes. if only 540 airs were that easy....
high score 6555.

Posted by: rza at October 28, 2004 10:45 AM

that was bad ass last night!

rong runch..

Posted by: bagel at October 28, 2004 11:03 AM

Those OB shots are killers, especially since I was trapped in friggin' meetings all day. And Larson should be able retire off the revenues from that photo of the moon. . . classic.

Posted by: Bruce at October 28, 2004 11:13 AM

Awesome wave photos.

I picked up a windsurfing rig for $200 last night. That practically makes me a sailor. Next time the onshore winds have you all driving the coast frantically trying to find non-blown out waves, I'll be hanging at the yacht club with Marianne and Ginger.

Congrats to Boston. See you in 2090.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 28, 2004 11:22 AM

what the...farking was clearly in a different part of the sea from e land! Then again, a better surfer will have a much different experience! "Uh-Oh" stuff easy to dodge and not heavy, alternately, surfable stuff was also darting around and tough to catch. Happy to have made the paddle out, plus I learned to curse in Russian. Russian, the official language of surfing. Onshores are waiting to pounce, we'll see.

Question: any thoughts about correlation between weight of board/weight of surfer/weight and power of waves? The physics of it. Not even getting into board shape. I love the light board for overall handling and paddling/getting worked on the inside, but in heavier fall stuff seem to bounce all over the place - often crouch down to try to keep the board on the water as opposed to jumping in the air. I know there's a happy medium. Discuss?

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 28, 2004 11:23 AM

let's hear some examples of russian curses sharkbait.

Posted by: e at October 28, 2004 11:26 AM

Damn!!!!! I knew it was going to be GOOOOOOOD Wednesday.

Got news my last week that my department is being laid off at the end of the year. Had a critical interview Wednesday at 10am. Otherwise, I would've been there......Would'a should'a could'a. Damn Damn.

Posted by: Davo at October 28, 2004 11:30 AM

Sounds like a great DP! I did mid-beach 9-10:30 and had a different experience---closer to Sharkbait's: fat mushy waves that, despite a light wind flirting with being kind of offshore, were breaking very flat. I only got one real ride, and it was like skateboarding down a driveway. A longboard or fish would've got me into more of them . . . But I think I have to find a different spot for highish tide with this kind of swell. I didn't see any other surfers at all until I left the water and marched back down the beach; by that time there were a couple more guys out; didn't see them get any really fun-looking rides, though. So if you're heading out, the kook's tip is, maybe look elsewhere.

Posted by: klooless at October 28, 2004 11:32 AM

Note from Ashcroft: where you at you desk on 2/27/2004?

Posted by: robme at October 28, 2004 11:37 AM

Oops, I can't write...

Posted by: robme at October 28, 2004 11:38 AM

No prob e, just hang downwind of me anytime I'm paddling out over anything bigger than 3 feet. ;)

OB is mooshy w/ light onshores already. Poop!

Posted by: s.s. glasnost at October 28, 2004 11:41 AM

Hey!!! Unemployed surf nomads we at flow are hiring a customer service person interested parties should go to http://www.malakye.com/ and look at the details.

Not a bad gig as its a snowboard comapny in south park


Glad some folks got some great waves. Its stilll gonna get bigger, hopefully just as nice....

Posted by: pez at October 28, 2004 11:43 AM

Yep yesterday was great until about 4:00. I got out at about 3:30- didn't find a bad paddle, got a wave while it was still glassy and then the wind! I wound up one of the last out of the water at S-poop-t. Just stubborn, or something. Got speed- bumped off a wave so hard that I got winded and nearly barfed when I hit the surface. Had some fun ones too, but man am I out of shape. Met a guy officially that I have seen around and he was getting waves mosly because he was paddling fit. What a difference that makes. The only downer about the session was coming in through the floaty brown foam at sundown. Probably not dangerous but sure looks gross after all the rain. And the eclipse!

Hitting it this afternoon- watch that tide shift.

Posted by: goodmorning at October 28, 2004 11:45 AM

Good morning out there!

Winds this morning appeared to be onshore from the reports: 12 mph WNW.

But, the beach didn't represent that. Someone called and got me back out of bed for the second time. Nice work! I needed a session after missing yesterday. Leaving the beach, it looked like some of the waves were blowing steam off their tops. Maybe it will clean up thru the day.

Some swell out there still. Not what there was yesterday but it is doable.

Posted by: Kaiser at October 28, 2004 12:05 PM

I applied to that Pez but I think the peeps at flow think I am a little over qualified for the position. I just want out of my current job though, doesn't matter what I would be doing. And Flow sounds like a cool company to me.

Posted by: kookdom at October 28, 2004 12:05 PM

Looks like Noreiga is good today. Got a bit of the peckers, does she? Got some offies and looks a bit on the glasgow side of big from the cliff.

Tonight's the night for Glasgow and the boys. Gonna strip em of their panties I see.

I'll keep you boys updated on all the spots I see. Don't get the panties in a bunch if I'm late with me report.

Posted by: NZSwell at October 28, 2004 12:11 PM

Gawddammit. I missed another session while sitting on the sidelines. I tried putting a boot on my injured foot last night cuz the swelling is mostly gone but the bruise left the top of my foot super-sensitive to pressure. I could see some November style bombs racing along the beach. Not sure which hurt more. In desperation, I took an old 5mm boot and cut away most of it except for the top and additional parts to hold it on my foot. I cut a piece of plastic out of a yogurt container to slip between the boots and protect the top of my foot. Hopefully, the extra padding and shield will give me enough protection to get back in the water sooner. Hopefully by Friday. Happy to hear that most of youz got some. Great pics today too.

Posted by: Dennis at October 28, 2004 12:18 PM

nzswell - keep the kiwi slang coming! hilarious.

Posted by: e at October 28, 2004 12:20 PM

goodmorning:
was that you i met at S yesterday around 4? if so, nice chatting with you. sorry to cut the conversation short - that right reered up and i had to go.

Posted by: dave t at October 28, 2004 12:24 PM

E would you please regulate street names!
Thanks!

Posted by: at October 28, 2004 12:45 PM

Dave-

I have a pair of wingtips on and am heading to a variance application hearing at the SFDBI.

If I am your man get ahold of me @ goodmorning at zworg dot com if you have a free day tomorrow....

Enjoyed meeting you yesterday and I met another whom I have seen around. Amazing how nice people are in the water after it gets a little bigger. What happened to the debates? Really, don't bring them back.

Posted by: goodmorning at October 28, 2004 12:56 PM

Don't be bummed if ya missed the DP this AM. I didn't catch a fucking thing.

Posted by: Traut at October 28, 2004 12:59 PM

Yesterday at the southern border...I got hit in the head with a log in the shorebreak. Damn insulting.

Posted by: kdalle at October 28, 2004 01:03 PM

goodmorning:
best of luck scoring the variance. i wholeheartedly agree that as wave height increases, the amount of love in the water does too. it did yesterday in any case. i'll email you shortly.

Posted by: dave t at October 28, 2004 01:10 PM

Kdalle, lets have some details.

Posted by: friend #1 at October 28, 2004 01:25 PM

kdalle, Yesterday afternoon I was looking at the water near my house and saw a log (wooden) about 6'x1'x1' floating right through the line up. Three guys out there too. Debris is scary...

Posted by: Dennis at October 28, 2004 01:31 PM

i have some major surf blueballs

Posted by: j at October 28, 2004 01:31 PM

photos from twsurf.com

Posted by: e at October 28, 2004 01:36 PM

Ian-

Give me a holla

Posted by: pez at October 28, 2004 01:50 PM

A few years ago, I surfed rockaway with a telephone pole in the water.

Posted by: joe o at October 28, 2004 01:56 PM

menehune?

Posted by: robme at October 28, 2004 01:58 PM

a couple weeks ago i did the rockaway and leaned back

Posted by: fat joe at October 28, 2004 02:04 PM

friend #1:
I was pushing through a pitching shorepound. It hit me as I surfaced through the back.
- It was sort of a 4' length of a telephone pole.
- It hurt.
- I have a hard head. No bleeding. No bump.

So...is your annual Halloween perfomance karaoke or live?

Keep surfing no matter...uh...uh....

Posted by: kdalle at October 28, 2004 02:22 PM

E that wasn't me (again), this is my first post of the day. The guy that tried to post maps yesterday in my name wasn't me either.

Hey whoever you are, do you at least have the balls to tell me what your problem with me is? Is it that I sometimes post what's happening at Manor? As if it *ever* gets crowded there. Manor looks after itself.
If you have a problem, I'll listen and maybe even change my posts. Just don't be so bloody weak and childish.

Posted by: NZ Swell at October 28, 2004 02:23 PM

any ocean reports ???

Posted by: T.O. double D. at October 28, 2004 02:32 PM

red sox win the world series, full moon lunar eclipse, and there's surf in new england. the pagan gods are smiling

Posted by: gvibe at October 28, 2004 02:35 PM

no returns, no exchanges:

http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/zip/46883140.html

Posted by: at October 28, 2004 02:37 PM

Does anyone have any experience with the surfspots around Puerto Vallarta area? - Sayulita & in general; Nayarit, Mexico - I'm thinking of going in Jan/Feb and was wondering what the wave consistency is like.
Thanks in advance.

Posted by: Dave at October 28, 2004 02:40 PM

Where did all the paddling channels go this year??? has anyone noticed the total lack of channels out there? there just seems to be row after row of white water....here is a shot from the day after big wed. last year...look at the huge channels compare with yesterday which was a bit bigger but not by mush and zero channels. any thoughts????

Posted by: dsx at October 28, 2004 02:50 PM

Posted by: at October 28, 2004 02:51 PM

Posted by: dsx at October 28, 2004 02:51 PM

Kdalle -

It's live baby. We dress as a group and do 10-14 songs of their stuff on three rehearsals.

You have a vague memory of someone asking for everyone's favorite David Bowie Tunes last year.

I used that to convince my bandmates that we really had to do Moon-age Daydream. Of course it ended up in a medley with Ziggy Stardust and Space Oddity, but I did get to sing to a crowd: "I'm and alligator, I'm a momma-papa coming for you, I the space invader, I'll be a rock and rolling Bitch for you..."

If your head feels better, head over to the Metro in Oakland on Saturday night.

Posted by: friend #1 at October 28, 2004 02:56 PM

sayulita is good for longboarding and is really chill. i took a boat to a left point break near there that had mad potential, but the swell wasn't really there. still fun. you might have trouble getting sizable waves in Jan/Feb, but probably some good logger conditions.

i also saw joe montana on the beach there chilling with his kids.

super sick shot dsx.

Posted by: bbr at October 28, 2004 03:03 PM

dave,
the puerto vallarta area gets some waves that time of year but don't expect anything too big. as bbr said, sayulita is chill, but overrun with beginners and surf schools - and it's gotten really expensive the past few years. south a bit at punta mita there is a good right reef point and some other breaks.
it you have the time to drive south a few hours you will get better surf. enjoy.

Posted by: rza at October 28, 2004 03:15 PM

it was actually fun at lunch at e norte endo, or constructions, funky, but better than it looked..it seemed like it may have been getting glassier when i left if winds hold leave early.

got that new andrew kidman movie glass love in the mail today..anyone see it yet?

Posted by: bagel at October 28, 2004 03:34 PM

I just found out about this from some other local surf pimp's site. Our blogger is becoming forgetful in his old age. Tonight at 111 Minna.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 28, 2004 03:42 PM

dsx, my guess would be that some major swell/storm is needed to transition the bars to more winter-like bars (i.e., with more defined channels). However, I have no idea what I am taking about, so maybe someone like Blakestah should fill in.

I tripped down to Baja last year around the end of January. Talking to some of the folks there, it had been flat for a long time. We lucked into the first good swell of the winter. My guess is that mainland Mexico could be even more problematic for NW or W swells. However, this year is supposed to have some El Nino effect, so maybe it will be better. BTW, you can get better, less crowded surf in Cali than Sayulita. But again, I have no idea what I am talking about.

Posted by: dano at October 28, 2004 03:53 PM

BTW, it was HOWLING offshore yesterday. Pretty good southernly flow today.

Posted by: dano at October 28, 2004 03:55 PM

rza and bbr - thanks for the information.

So.. surf trip for Jan/Feb - where to go? Ideas?
I want to go somewhere other than Hawaii and don't want to go somewhere too far - 5 hours plane ride max.
I do want;
Waves - does'nt have to be too big - head-high is fine.
Water - 65 and up
Air - 75 and up

Thanks again.

Posted by: Dave at October 28, 2004 03:58 PM

Made the paddle today.

Seemed like I am still paddling in wet cement. Do I need to put on water wings? Or do I need to listen to something else beside NPR on the way to the beach inthe early hours?

Saw kdalle get a few rides.

I caught three myself.

Wish I could have done this yesterday.

Posted by: Mr Doof at October 28, 2004 04:04 PM

Dave- Surfed Sayulita in late spring every day for a week a couple of years back. All the posts are right on. Chilled, smallish, schoolerized. But surfing in trunks with women in bikinis ain't bad.

I still like Cabo best for good surfing without roughing it (middle-aged wimp).

Posted by: Bruce at October 28, 2004 04:16 PM

women in bikinis? welp, readers of this blog DEFINITELY don't want to go there.

Posted by: j at October 28, 2004 04:28 PM

Get over it, j.

Posted by: friend #1 at October 28, 2004 04:34 PM

robme....

that is cool and terrifying. one because
someone COULD ID someone with the
right stuff AND because i want to look
at the surf BUT do not wanna see the
LANDLORD in the shots. i am sure ya'll
have all heard from the pilots that cruise
up and down the coast that IT is out there
and they see IT regularly from the air....

creepy.


i THINK i saw elias in that shot....
kaiser your boss has the url now....

Posted by: korewin at October 28, 2004 04:42 PM

best t-poo shot of all time?

Posted by: e at October 28, 2004 05:00 PM

i get scared just looking at that wave.

Posted by: rza at October 28, 2004 05:03 PM

both beautiful and terrifying

Posted by: e at October 28, 2004 05:13 PM

just sit and think for a second about what's going on with this wave! Look at that barrel!!

Posted by: e at October 28, 2004 05:17 PM

the third wave (the bending wall of death) has gotta be the heaviest photo ever. can you imagine being caught inside on that thing with only 12 inches of water beneath you so you couldn't even give it a proper duck dive?

Posted by: at October 28, 2004 05:19 PM

My water-patrol instructor told me when she patroled for a few of the contests at teauhuwahupoopoo, the best way to get in and out is to dock on the reef. It regularly goes dry every wave. Nuts.

What is pez's email? iane at sfsu. edumacation

Posted by: Ian at October 28, 2004 05:55 PM

Oh yeah, the mar had some decent sized close-outs this morning.

Posted by: Ian at October 28, 2004 05:57 PM

Remember- you should always measure the height of a have from the BACK. Do those photos settle that controversy or what? It's also hard to dis tow-in surfing when you see some of these waves ridden for the first time in history. Maybe someone will say they should never be ridden?

Any of our blog friends surfed Tahiti and willing to share a story or two? I know big wave guys from SC who watched Poo from the channel and wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole, er, gun. I've visited the society islands twice but it was during my surfing layoff (good- I probably would have drowned my sorry ass).

What I remember most about Tahiti is beautiful women with features from every ethnicity and strong fathers holding their babies. Dad laid down his sleepy boy in the sand and he woke up 30 minutes later crying until hoisted into his father's arms once again.

Posted by: Bruce at October 28, 2004 06:24 PM

kids rule.

and so do anti-gravity cats!

http://216.40.242.213/mirror/cat.mov

Posted by: bagel at October 28, 2004 06:42 PM

Posted by: at October 28, 2004 08:04 PM

That's not a very inviting lip to have hammering down on you.

Posted by: at October 28, 2004 08:07 PM

a tid bit from one of my stories stories.. Possibly going into the TSJ or Surfers Path...

The quest for foreign surf isn’t something I necessarily understand myself, but I do know that it drives me to places I may not have gone to otherwise, and it allows me to participate with nature in ways other travelers can’t. Surfing almost legitimizes my being there, I wasn’t there to observe, I was there willing and ready to participate.
I headed out in search of the left point the Australian surfer told me about. I took off early from Opuwo and headed southwest through a vast barren land of red tabletop mountains and dusty brown desert flats. Along the way I passed small villages of cow dung and mud huts. Occasionally Herero children would place rocks in the road to try to get me to pull over and look at the goods they had for sale, mostly bracelets and crystals. I drove hundreds of kilometers on gravel, dirt and sand roads past the occasional giraffe or zebra through Kokoveld and on to Damaraland.

Posted by: mexi at October 29, 2004 07:55 AM

It probably barrilin right now!!!

Posted by: pez at October 29, 2004 08:22 AM

Mexi that story sounds like its going to be sick!

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