Eery blood-curdling vexations
Never-mind the severed Medusa-head that leapt from a garbage pale on my way to the beach. Never-mind the cackling banshees that sneered and threatened from the rooftops as I tried to get my surf-psyche on. Never-mind the pus-oozing, flesh-dripping zombies that tried to bar me from crossing the great highway. And then I saw her, the infamous, ghastly “Blue Lady” from the Moss Beach Distillery. She looked pretty sexy despite her 200 years of haunting, spooking and lurking. She tried to seduce me into her sultry beach-cave but I saw the pearlescent (co-worker’s word), shellacked ocean surface out of the corner of my eye and then noticed a picturesque shoulder-high peak peel and beckon. I quickly forgot about the supple blue thighs of the Blue Lady and sprinted out into the surf.
Gorgeous, technicolor sunrise as Lerm and I traded waves within nobody around for miles. Slim pickins for those desirous of power and size. A few shoulder-high, uber-glassy undulations squirted through the lineup. I lucked into some memorable ramps and enjoyed that legendary feeling of pumping along the face of a glassy, tapering wave. On a log you’d be LOVIN it out there. Great beginner day too. Sunny and beautiful. Small, playful, fun-lovin’, oil-smooth OB light-coreness. Take your grandpa out there and push him into a few. Great day for the girlfriends who want to surf but don’t like it huge. I managed one lip-click that had me free-falling down with the lip and actually landing successfully in the whitewater. It’s surprising what you can pull off with a little balance and forward momentum. Some cool opportunities to just catch a wave and stand there riding toward the beach on the mushy, fat pulsation. I had a fun belly ride at the end too!
In summary, avoid the pre-Halloween ghouls, take your foamiest board, and go get some sliders.
Check out this excerpt of a story penned by the illustrious Mexi:
"The quest for foreign surf isn’t something I necessarily understand myself, but I do know that it drives me to places I may not have gone to otherwise, and it allows me to participate with nature in ways other travelers can’t. Surfing almost legitimizes my being there, I wasn’t there to observe, I was there willing and ready to participate.
I headed out in search of the left point the Australian surfer told me about. I took off early from Opuwo and headed southwest through a vast barren land of red tabletop mountains and dusty brown desert flats. Along the way I passed small villages of cow dung and mud huts. Occasionally Herero children would place rocks in the road to try to get me to pull over and look at the goods they had for sale, mostly bracelets and crystals. I drove hundreds of kilometers on gravel, dirt and sand roads past the occasional giraffe or zebra through Kokoveld and on to Damaraland."
East Coast photos from surfline
maldives
blue lady
niiice. took yesterday off, surfed three times, no wind, offshore until 11am, fun, fun, short period swell. some bigger drops to long, long tapering walls. ahhhhh.
still some this mornin', it is dying fast though.
anyone know any remedies to rashes under both my arms from my wetsuit? fuckin' annoying.
Ghoul get some waves!
Posted by: Hb at October 29, 2004 10:23 AMHere are some pics of my "home break" I was never a local but this was the street I surfed in Long Beach.
http://www.jet1a.com/surf/#
Click on the latest pics at the top for more Long Island juice.
As far as Teauhpoo is concerned, a couple of the San Fransycho kids were there in August and caught it big. And surfed it well.
So. As the story goes. Ocean Beach can produce some very skilled surfers.
Posted by: tominator at October 29, 2004 10:28 AMIs that "puss-oozing" or "pus-oozing", 2 very different things there..... J/K
Today was pretty fun. A bit challenging to get into some waves at the beginning of the session but it got better over time. Second the thoughts of E, super fun to catch a wave and throw some hand drags. I got a few solid ones but was a bit frustrated trying to catch the inbetweeners. Glad I took my Egg out. Made it much more enjoyable.
Clean, fun, glassy. Roll out and enjoy the day.
Posted by: Kaiser at October 29, 2004 10:31 AMhaha! nice catch on the puss vs. pus. D'oh!
Posted by: e at October 29, 2004 10:34 AMtom's home break
Posted by: e at October 29, 2004 10:36 AMHopefully the offshores will hold. FNMOC radar and the Blakestah pedict big waves on sunday. Me thinks it will be bigger than wednesday but maybe not as clean.
Gotta be pretty good right now.
Hey boarders and deck jockies check this site out
http://www.bulldogskates.com/museum/museum.html
Remember when skating wasnt cool? When just doing a bonless and some slides was skatin? Love the old days...gonna get me one of these pigs and start rippin ortega,riviera and a curb near you.
Posted by: pez at October 29, 2004 10:38 AMHopefully the offshores will hold. FNMOC radar and the Blakestah pedict big waves on sunday. Me thinks it will be bigger than wednesday but maybe not as clean.
Gotta be pretty good right now.
Hey boarders and deck jockies check this site out
http://www.bulldogskates.com/museum/museum.html
Remember when skating wasnt cool? When just doing a bonless and some slides was skatin? Love the old days...gonna get me one of these pigs and start rippin ortega,riviera and a curb near you.
Posted by: pez at October 29, 2004 10:38 AMWow, tominator, as someone who spent teenage summer nights drinking under the boardwalk in Long Beach, I never realized it got that good. I simply assumed trips to the ancestral homeland would see me driving out to the Hamptons. Good to see that Town of Hempstead still has some potential. LIRR represent.
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 29, 2004 10:46 AMit's close to midnight
and something evils lurking in the dark
you try to scream
but terror takes the sound before you make it
you start to freeze
as horror looks you right in the eyes...
you're paralyzed..
cause this is THRILLER.
Posted by: Michael Jackson at October 29, 2004 10:53 AMThrillah nights.
Hb - you can use any kind of cooking oil. just depends on how you like to smell.
Posted by: steama at October 29, 2004 10:58 AMhttp://www.hawaiiweathertoday.com/content.php?pid=15
maui surf report features a shot of wednesdays OB niceness
E - know anything about that? it's the first pic from yesterdays post. maybe this blog is going global.
Posted by: pdub at October 29, 2004 11:00 AMpez...i bought one of those pig boards recently. Never really liked the new decks. But when I saw that pig it took me back to the 80's when I used to skate down my street and pretend all the driveways were wave faces and see how hard I could slide at the top. So now I got a new board and when I skate down my street all my very suburban neighbors wonder who the crazy middle aged guy is having a mid life crisis.... but it's still fun...
any prognosticators want to tell me what the wind will be doing this arvo...i might be able to sneak a city session in around 3....keeping my fingers crossed.
Posted by: jdz at October 29, 2004 11:02 AMre: Pig Boards. Santa Cruz Skateboards has some limited edition re-release decks that are great. Check it:
http://www.scskate.com/skate/boards/reissues.php
The top of the boards has the Santa Cruz Logo with: Thirty F*ckin Years
Posted by: moss_man at October 29, 2004 11:12 AMbilly jean is not my lover
she's just a girl
who thinks that i am the one
but the child is not my son
hee
hoo hoo
Posted by: michael at October 29, 2004 11:18 AMhey Hb....
the best stuff i have ever found for
the chafe is "bag balm" it is made for
and used primarily on the udders of
dairy cows BUT it WORKS really well.
i used to get this ugly drying, cracking
on my hand/ wrist in my days as a coffee
slinging dope smokin' snowboarder in santa fe...
(13% humidity will dry out anything) the coffee
shop had a jar of it. antiseptic and not stinky.
also won't FU the suit....
if you have a hippy-dippy co-op/grocery they
will most likely have it...and i love google...
http://www.bagbalm.com/
the waves WERE fun this a.m. and
YES kaiser it DID get better after you left....
Posted by: korewin at October 29, 2004 11:21 AMThat is crazy about that photo in the Hawaii link. The source code is straight up from E's site.
E, you are blowing up.
Posted by: Kaiser at October 29, 2004 11:22 AMyes...andrew it could get real good. here are some shots from March...
http://www.newyorksurf.com/gallery/311/311-1.htm
How long you been out west?
Hb we got Steel Pulse here next weekend. Even better news is the bartender at the venue is a bro...
Posted by: tominator at October 29, 2004 11:24 AMWinds good all day.
Sunday smaller than Wednesday, but cleaner. Methinks.
Posted by: blakestah at October 29, 2004 11:24 AMpdub.. the guy from the hawaii weather site emailed to tell me he liked e's surf report. He didn't say he wanted to use the image. Hope that Walker (photographer) is cool with it. Walker, if you're reading this. Copy and paste the link that pdub posted above. Let me know if you'd rather the photo not be shared and i'll email the dude from hawaiiweathertoday.com
schweeet.
btw - michael jackson i dig... nice to whoever posted those lyrics.
Don't stop till ya get enough
wanna be startin' something.
oh yeah..
Posted by: e at October 29, 2004 11:25 AMhmm...my computer is trippin, i think i'm only seeing a % of the posts as people mention things, but i don't see the original question/post they're referring to.
my first skate. well, mine was the mini actually. hilarious, totally 80's looking in neon green and silver.
Posted by: j at October 29, 2004 11:34 AMthank you!
Posted by: jdz at October 29, 2004 11:46 AMSaw the baby great white at the monterey aquarium on Sat. Awesome to see one without having to clean my wetsuit afterwards.
Most interesting thing was how differently it behaved from the reef & hammerhead sharks. Seemed smarter, more curious.
Apparently if she gets too big or starts eating other fish in the tank they're going to release her.
Unfortunately she is fed by people, so there may soon be a landlord-ette out there that associates humans with salmon filets. Super!
Posted by: ryan at October 29, 2004 11:57 AMWill the gloved one appear at the Metro?
Posted by: at October 29, 2004 12:04 PMI sent the pics to E cause Wed. was pretty macking and people were asking for pics throughout the day. If hawaii wants to check it out that's fine with me. Good OB and pics to prove it can keep the stoke level up when its onshore and we wish we were in Hawaii. On Wed., it was the other way around.
Posted by: Walker at October 29, 2004 12:08 PMWEEEEEEEE!
First wave, and probably on the only one where this was physically possible, a "picture perfect" [ verbatim laughing witness ] over the falls froggy fall. But darnit it was just one of those waves where you *have* to try anyway. One fresh bruise, one new Russian swear word, one drop -in [ not me... drop-in guy was cool enough ] and tons of fun. Amazing how much OB changes from day to day and hour to hour. It's a joy just to paddle around and not get drilled. Cheers,
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 29, 2004 12:09 PMI was a TOH lifeguard 94 though 99, left June 2000 for grad school here in Bay area. Took up surfing when I was supposed to finish my thesis,now hoping to finish thesis before my professor retires. Surfing was something that never occurred to me in NY, seemed like I only saw people doing it poorly on the soup. Plus the perception that only nancy-boys in California surfed. Now I'm sorry I didn't become a nancy-boy sooner. I still check the bunger surf cam every now and again, but it never seems all that exciting. What gets me about California is the lines of swell stretching across the ocean surface out to the horizon on perfect days. Maybe it's just the perspective of the hills out here, but that never happened on Long Island.
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 29, 2004 12:09 PMMy first deck was a red STEVE STEAHAM P&P with the huge muti colored bones wheels and tracker trucks w hanger gaurds of course. I worked in a print shop for two months to complete the set up. I was 13. My mom refused to buy me a board and was pissed that I used my savings to get the steadham. Got the deck and wheels the first month and hid them in my ceiling. Got the rest the next month. Didnt even know how to skate, but my new friends from stage crew were already poachin pools and doin huge acid drops at Lyola and northeastern Universities. Practiced like 4 hrs everyday for months to work up the courage to skate with the like Stevie Dread & Jesse Neuhaus (Alva Team Riders) @ Oak Street Beach. Love those days when doing an invert or a nice slide on your driveway made you happy. Finding that nowdays in all board riding is key.
I work with an overweight 40yr old that schooled me at the banks here by work. He rides his board everyday and doesnt care how he looks.
Keep it up jdz all the yuppie types have been wanting to do it since the days of underroos and now are "training": thier offspring for X-game $$$$.
Keep skating as its one of the purist forms of fun next to wankering and meditation.
Posted by: pez at October 29, 2004 12:13 PMI was stoked to see a pic of OB on the Maui surf report. analogous to the proud pappa feeling. Maui gets world class waves all the time, yesterday they were stoked on OB!
E - hope your cool with him posting pics from your site. looks like it just got updated with one of your pics of the maldives from today
Posted by: pdub at October 29, 2004 12:28 PMAt 9:00 it was fish/egg/log heaven (sounds like one of those caviar things)... Still, fun enough on the shortboard compared to my most recent sessions, which have been pretty frustrating. BUT the offshores started in earnest around 10:00 and what a change: steepness, lips, and you'd swear the swell jacked up a foot or two in solidarity with the wind. Suddenly the waves were a snap to catch, and I (and everyone else in a pretty crowded spot) got zillions of fun rides, with reasonable amounts of face-time, including my first attempts to smack the lip (I'm sure no one watching my body contort spastically before falling down could've realized that THAT'S what I was trying to do, but in my mind I was dealing out enormous fans of spray). I'd been ready to leave at 10, but I couldn't drag myself away from those waves until noon. F U N ! ! !
Posted by: klooless at October 29, 2004 01:19 PMpretty fun this morning despite the high tide..maybe a spooky evening low tide outing..
Posted by: bagel at October 29, 2004 01:23 PMKlooless,
Keep up the ripping and the stories.
Posted by: at October 29, 2004 01:40 PMyeah kloo, do keep it up. it's been nice to track the evolution of your surfing and writing.
fun-ness at midbeach this morning as the moon faded and the sky turned pink with the rising sun. good vibes despite what was likely some vidcam-induced crowding. hope the dude got footage of my huge airs ;)
db, i plan to ride the rfs all weekend. think i should put the stiffer bumpers in for sunday?
Posted by: loon at October 29, 2004 02:11 PMstiiiil glassy!
Posted by: bagel at October 29, 2004 02:35 PMhow late can you surf before it gets dark these days? hoping to get an evening session but might not have the time...
Posted by: bbr at October 29, 2004 03:01 PMPlease refrain from posting scary images ;-)
Posted by: mexi at October 29, 2004 03:12 PMGoing surfing...
sunset is at 6:14 today. i left the water at about 6:45 on wed and there was enough light to surf for maybe another 10-20 mins. we switch to standard time on sat night, so tonight is the last crack at the post-work session for 9-5'ers for several months, alas.
Posted by: loon at October 29, 2004 03:15 PMso cal this morning
Posted by: e at October 29, 2004 03:26 PMsocal? looks like the mocha koffey to me...
Posted by: robme at October 29, 2004 03:55 PMKeep an eye on my board....
Posted by: Kaiser at October 29, 2004 04:13 PMHey, where did my board go.....
Posted by: Kaiser at October 29, 2004 04:14 PMHer toes are curling. That's a good sign!
Posted by: Jack at October 29, 2004 04:18 PMHow late can you surf?
Navy caluculations are better, as sunset from the newspaper is when the center of the disc dips below the horizon. But it stay light longer than that. Without cloud cover, you can stay out the end of civil twilight, add 10 minutes if the surf is regular....Note the moon data below...huh 97% of the disc illumiated, clear nights....huh.
Friday
29 October 2004 Pacific Daylight Time
SUN
Begin civil twilight 7:06 a.m.
Sunrise 7:33 a.m.
Sun transit 12:53 p.m.
Sunset 6:14 p.m.
End civil twilight 6:41 p.m.
MOON
Moonrise 6:36 p.m. on preceding day
Moon transit 1:48 a.m.
Moonset 9:10 a.m.
Moonrise 7:08 p.m.
Moonset 10:13 a.m. on following day
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at October 29, 2004 04:25 PMPhase of the Moon on 29 October: waning gibbous with 97% of the Moon's visible disk illuminated.
Is it peeling like this at the beach?
Posted by: Kaiser at October 29, 2004 04:25 PMhttp://sfports.wr.usgs.gov/wind/streaklines.shtml
Posted by: at October 29, 2004 04:36 PMpeel that crocheted (sp?) bikini...
outta here...gonna go ride some ripples..
one last question for all the cubists still
stuck in the veal pens...anyone been to the
dominican republic for surf?
have a chance to go there and wanted some
thoughts. seems to get the same swells or WORK
on the same swells as puerto rico....curious...
anyone?
Posted by: korewin at October 29, 2004 04:36 PMkorewin.. look in the local's corner of the main page of e's surf report.. Deni's dominical trip.
Posted by: e at October 29, 2004 04:50 PMi meant dominican
Posted by: e at October 29, 2004 05:03 PMhttp://www.niceness.org/surf/deni/
first board -- sc jammer. saved allowances for months. still have it somewhere in mom's garage.
hey korewin, i spent 2.5 years in the dr in the peace corps. there is surf there, but it mostly doesn't get decent size unless there's a hurricane to kick up some swell. definitely doesn't pick up as much swell as the pr. there's a bunch of resorts on the north coast that have windsurfing and some of those guys surf too and might be able to give you some local info. there are beach breaks pretty much all around the island. if you want more specific info, email me at fried5pam-onrice -at- ya[freakingspammers]hoo.com and i'll do my best to point you in the right direction.
Posted by: big g at October 29, 2004 05:12 PM2004/05 Maverick's Surf Contest Invitees
1. Darryl "Flea" Virostko
Posted by: Kaiser at October 29, 2004 05:44 PM2. Evan Slater
3. Peter Mel
4. Anthony Tashnick
5. Matt Ambrose
6. Grant Washburn
7. Carlos Burle
8. Garrett McNamara
9. Kenny Collins
10. Rodrigo Resende
11. Shane Desmond
12. Josh Loya
13. Russell Smith
14. Eraldo Gueiros
15. Brock Little
16. Greg Long
17. Ryan Seelback
18. Zack Wormhoundt
19. Mike Gerhardt
20. Randy Cone
21. Ross Clarke Jones
22. Tony Ray
23. Ion Banner
24. Shawn Rhodes
happy halloween, e
Posted by: cadaver at October 29, 2004 07:51 PMJack, that was quite possibly the best comment I have ever read on this board. How the hell did you notice hers toes? Got some today and it was fun. No where around the usual though. Why did flea get first invite? pfft..
Posted by: Ian at October 29, 2004 09:11 PMAbsolutely, Mr. online poker games! You heading out for a dawnie? Keep that consciousness stoke thing you got going.
Guy left his Prodonovich board at VFW's lot:
http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/spo/47252841.html
Posted by: at October 30, 2004 07:51 AMHey, just thought I'd give a shout. Lot's of fun yesterday, but was the midbeach spot me and my buddie picked out first really thee spot? Incredible - 20+ guys and nowhere else with over 5, including uppper parking. Imitation is sincere flattery, but OB'ers aren't supposed to be sheep, at least not until the weekend. Minor whine, plenty of waves, only a few oh shit there's two on a wave. Amazing what a little offshore will do. Of course my bud and I were thinking about a certain recent day at Rincon - hey that right is grinding down the line just like a certain point break - sigh. A ton of "friends". Vamanos.
Posted by: banjo at October 30, 2004 09:50 AMI love you, the best.
Posted by: jm at October 31, 2004 12:30 PMBetter than all the rest.
I love you, the best.
Better than all the rest, That I meet in the summer.
Indian summer.
That I meet in the summer.
Indian summer.
I love you, the best.
Better than all the rest.
Now that I read windsurfing bulletin boards, I've noted people in there keep logs of their days on the water. I've seen surf movies where people do that, and Finnegan mentions that Renneker does that, and well, e does it. I'm just wondering how common it is. Is it a way to try to capture and hold on to the best sessions, maybe pay a respecful tribute to the waves? Or an academic bookish impulse applied to another area of life, to study and learn about what you love? To use to bbs characters, I'd wager e does it for the first reason, and I suspect blakestah does it for the second. Or maybe it's always a bit of both.
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