E's Surf Report

i think i just spooged myself... i'm hoping tomorrow DP i get something remotely similar to what y'all got this AM. thanks for sharing that sweet sweet wave e.

Lots and lots of fun, easy, well formed waves.

Friend #1 lent me a rarely used board of his and I had a great time with it.

Fought current as long as I could, then tried to only ride lefts, and eventually gave in and drifted south through many different peaks of goodness.

Nothing too big, no real tough take-offs (except the ones you missed), lots of open faces, walls that didn't shut down, and well, it was just a great day.

Only thing that could have made it better would have been a lower tide.

When I left, two Coast Guard helicopter were circling up and down the Beach. Didn't seem like training to me, but what do I know?

Great description, e...got out in the dark on the north-end. Lightly off-shore, A-frames everywhere...beautiful. Bronze light sunrise and gaping handfuls of waves. Some beatings, some narrels, some walls that just opened up and kept going. Nice morning.

Hmmmm, I saw friend #1, but not doof. I also saw Kaiser, CK, and elias. Got a few 10+ turn waves, a few long lulls, a few late-drop-shoulder-mushes, and overall if the tide were about 2-3 feet lower it woulda been insane. Still a really good "inner bar" day in November.

YES! YES! YES! YES! YES!

At 6 am when I got in the water it was pure perfection....

Keep the dreams coming.

just like e said, and then some. rode one of my longest-ever rights, connected 8 maybe 10 turns. and the shapes and textures were magic out there.

as i packed up a dude in the car next to me mentioned that this is his last day in the states, heads back to oz tomorrow. what an amazing going-away present. if it wasn't looking to be just as good tomorrow (better?) i would have called in sick today.

enjoyed the latest malloy-johnson film last night (broke down melody) - tight editing, god music, perhaps just a wee bit too much surphilosophizing. can anyone confirm where those coldwater lefts were shot?

Party at my place. Sat...should be cooking by 10 or so...kegs etc...

email me at: ny_surf_sf@yahoo.com

music by
www.steelywonder.com

Pack a cooler though and leave it in your car because the kegs get kicked....and drink responsibly.

one two three four...give me some more

coldwater lefts with gerry lopez and jack johnson were in Chili i believe.

The movie reminded me how much I like bodysurfing. My pre-surf routine is swimming out to the breakers, and bodysurfing one in. Neck seal never holds up, though, and I fill with water. I have both cheap rear zip and neck-entry no-zip wetsuit (good neck seal, though), same problem with both. Any one every use a tri-suit? What does Judith use?

andrew.. i have the same problem when bodysurfing or swimming in my Oneil psycho 2 wetty. Neck seal doesn't cut it. On small days i usually backstroke in and i always get flushed..

You could never surf in a tri-suit. You can hardly walk actually. Great for swimming though cause there is so much rubber through the legs you don't have to kick.

My last ride was a new experience: I dug into one of those long lefts from way deep and worked my way along the face, backside. As I set up in the pocket, I look inside of me and I am getting hoots from a Coast Guard helicopter, just over the water. So I wave as I go by and then feel the blowback of his rotors. Too Bad it wasn't on one of the big Close-out sets, that blowback could have really stood it up. As it was, it was really a trip of a way to end the session.

Lots of paddling, felt like I should have been on my Longboard. On my 7'6", I was having trouble getting in, or getting to the right place to get in. I little frustrating of a session, since I felt like my abilities were not up to the conditions. But what conditions!

Saw Blakesth drop into one of the bigger wide-swigging lefts, and smoothly bottom turn out of the pit.

Every right resulted in another block down the beach. Every left kept you in position but didn't gain you any yardage.

Started to get a bit fuggly around 9:00.

And you'd still get flushed. The water just leaves the suit quicker as the leg openings are way bigger and stop at the calves not the ankles.

HOT SURF.
nah. surf sucks. don't believe what e wrote.
probably best at lindy.

in other news, christian, if you find an extra set of arms... let me know.

in other other news. fun hanging with the heads at BDM last night. good times. i even won a prize!? that never happens.

in other other news news... fun surfing with a handfull of the niceness gang. awesome sunrise. ya know?

Bahhhhh, hahhh, HA!

Good fun! Doing the Broke Down Melody to clean surf thing is magical. I thought the movie was solid, great vibes, good mood, different then Thicker and Sept. Sessions. Pretty stoked.

Then, I wake up and I get to actually surf myself. I honestly thought it would be a little bigger today but its cool. Totally fun out there. Headed out with Elias and we slinked into some good fun ones while watching the sky turn from grey to orange to blue all the colors inbetween. I only took my 6'5'' out there and I wish I the board was just a bit longer at times. Pretty magical morning out there though. Totally glassy, a little texture, then back to glass. That is like the 3rd one of its kind this week....

Great week for surf. Great day to be in the water. Nice to see some friends out there enjoying the moments and sharing some stoke.

Now, where did I put that chop comb of mine?

Glad to hear all this stoked scorage energy. Chained to the cube today. Here we come:

damn. damn damn damn damn damn damn damn.

thanks for sharing that wave e!!

wish i was there dammit...i have some appointment later im pretty sure..

last night after broke down melody i was walking home with a smile on my face. it was a great movie with lots of positivity and beauty. then i turned the corner down one of the little side streets and one of my favorite joy division songs came on in delirium's little club. more stoke. then some dirty homeless dude surprised me with a very friendly greeting. yet more stoke. i was just so happy to be living in sf with all this greatness around. and geez....then this morning....perfect waves rolling through.
we had two awesome days this week! sooo stoked. should be a fantastic weekend!!

you guys are killing me. no car this morning. i gotta move closer to the beach.

bagel, thanks for the idea!

hey e - nice glasses last night, styling

i got tons of them for all kind of situations lerm.

ps i was thinking that left was ore. because that was Lopez and he lives up there and it was all rocky. the smaller left and the dudes speaking spaninsh i think was chili or somewhere down there. i aint no jeaniologist though. cool story those fishermen guys..

here are some shots from this morning....
the coast guard that friend#1 was talking about...

the wave that friend#1 was talking about...

some rad dude...

some wave...

some sunburst...

some other wave...

and some crow...

thanks for watching...

ah crap. lets try this again....
the coastie that friend#1 was talking about

the wave that friend#1 was talking about...

some rad dude...

some wave...

some sunburst...

some other wave...

and some crow...

thanks for watching...

I like the crow.

Bbbbaaarrrrrr.

friend#1 - nice wave!!!
elias - nice pics!

phish tower jam (IT festival).. all time best ever phish improvisational exploration. hour and twenty minutes of celestial, ethereal triumphancy.

yeah.. nice photos elias.. i like the "rad dude"

crazy copter tale friend #1.

paul b!! ha! nice. i love those glasses.

those pictures are some rad!

So I assume there were HUGE crowds at all the "secret" spots I mentioned yesterday.

Ya know, I offered a little recap of my trip south as a response to E's request for stories. A couple of boneheads had to turn it into an issue.

What happened to "share the stoke"?

What happened to "information wants to be free"?

Small minded, localized, egotrippers. With apologies to Mr. Harrison, "I, me, me, mine".

BTW, my "secret spot" was surprisingly light this morning. I had a pretty good time. Go figure.

careful with the axe, eugene.

i see rad dude just about every other day!! I'd know that stoop and gait anywhere, he's a fixture walking along the path or the beach. usually with a half burned ciggie butt hanging out of his mouth. I tried to have a yak with him once, but he seemed a man on a mission.
Hope y'all got some pearlers this morning...

kdalle.. thanks for staying stoked. It was cool reading about your day. My first hate mail in regard to this site occurred after i mentioned Scotts Creek.

lerm.. next time you need a ride to the beach just call me.

me thinks it was punta lobos, chile

Scott's is overrun by grumpy old men on oversized boards... there are a dozen breaks (but I won't be naming any!) much better than Scott's in that area

hmmm its not often that im wrong but this might be one of those times. off to see incredibles sported by work than appointments. happy friday heads.

gracias elias!

Anyone ever see the blonde/grey slim bearded dude who wears an old tan/brown canvas tarp and has two shopping carts full of stuff? Always talking out loud to himself, often in Sloat parking lot.

I've seen him as far south a the Daly City horsestables and just a week or two ago was surprised to see him up North at Fort Point.

Thats some range when you are hauling 2 shopping carts.

He's a rad dude, too

Thanks elias, that confirms it, I have all the style of one of those RC surfers. Too bad the waves aren't correspondingly oversized.

Is there a wider stanced surfer among the more hominid of us?

blonde/grey slim bearded dude goes down route 1 to SLO and back, pushing his carts the whole way.

Great pix and words all 'round! I'm somehow even more stoked now than I was coming out of the water an hour ago, having finally given up trying to persuade my arm-noodles to somehow get me out one more time.

Paddled out at 9 with Sharkbait (who I couldn't find after a long right took me a block south), on my 7'4"--which did come in handy getting into these waves and surviving a few of those long, speedy drops. I didn't find much steepness or tubing---either things had changed or I'm just an idiot or, most likely, both. But lots of fat head+ A-frames that would provide lonnnnnng rides. I don't feel like I surfed all that well today---I often found myself totally baffled about what the wave was going to do and where I should go on it (as I was catching one, preparing to go right a surfer paddling out shouted "GO LEFT", which was good advice)---but it was awesome fun, and soooo beautiful out there.

Chatted with a nice white-helmet guy about the whirlybirds, blond guy was cool about my dropping in on his perfect left (I'd thought he was going to go right---see "totally baffled", above), and another surfer I passed post-session on the seawall rhapsodized about how glorious it was today . . .

Surfing is fun.

Fun waves this morning. Got some decent medium sized ones, and then The One came right at me. 3 feet overhead and jacking. Perfect position, no one inside. Stroke, stroke, stroke, ooooooh shiiiiiii*. No chance of even getting to my feet, just full on launch pad into oblivion. Fun jump, really. Bummed I didn't make the drop, but came up smiling anyway. Until I looked at my board. Snapped the nose off my 6'4". Should've been riding my 6'8" anyhow. Paddled in, got my 6'8" and paddled back out. Still smiling.

friend #1-In the 60's it was known as the "Greg Noll Waimea Survival Stance".

Thanks e for the positive words.

No NAMING international spots
please
the world is way too small

I don't really care if spots around here are crowded (especially the well known ones)

But when you go travel and lineups are as clogged like over exploited costa rica w/ spoiled gringos
it really sucks
There is nothing worse

Lets leave some spots/ countries out of the picture off the radar
Thanks!

it was indeed bootiful this am...I felt a little guilty as I walked out the door this morning leaving my wife with a 6 mo old and a crazy 3 yr old. But she understood...i think. I did bring her some flowers upon my return.

Anyway surfed north of the gate again...and again a little smaller...but soooo glassy and pretty and fun. I had one of those take offs where your a little inside and the wave starts to pitch (a la Davo) so you just jump to your feet, and try to feel your way down with the lip on you. Amazingly, I made it an had a nice little wall to work with. Guy on the inside said it looked like i "popped out of nowhere" onto the wave. Fun...apologies for the self serving ramble...back to work.

People out:

Red gloved dude on a board with blue rails.

Blakestah

Young darkhaired guy in blue trimmed suit, and a blue disposable camera (maybe?).

Short haired blond dude, looked like a cuber on a not large board.

Guy that looked like Grant Washburn but shorter, had a distinctive heavy bowed squint.

Woman on an M10 with blond braids.

Doof, on my Miller 7'6" Flameboard.

Grey suited youngin.

Older Tai Chi Master.

Which of these is Kaiser?

Kaiser is the woman on the M10

Washburn look-alike was CK

Disposable camera was Jersey-boy came with me

Elias was out there too....

i sure hope anon. is joking.
if so he is funny. if not, he isn't so funny.

dood should know that we who frequent this web spot are not going to invade los lobos or los padres or los angeles.

we sit at our computers each day wishing we didn't:

A. Have student/home/or whatever loans to pay off.
B. Have to pay rent.
C. Have to Dream of cashing out.
D. Have to listen to people type
E. Have to read silly things that tell us what to do or not to do so that we can have "cache" in international waters.

Sorry don't want to be a bummer for anyone... but on a lighter note... that aqua video was hilarious last night...

BOARD QUESTION, por favor! Currently riding a very lightweight 6'8" shortboard which I've been extremely comfortable and happy with. However, in these stronger fall conditions, this board seems too light ...it's bouncing off the whitewater, even bellyriding in today I had to press down hard to keep from going airborn - not alway successful. I'm guessing something meatier will help stability - trick is, if it's too big and heavy, paddling out and/or getting caught inside becomes monstrous. It's like being tied to a spooked horse. Too heavy board is definitely an issue. I'm not into straight out hefty longboards for this reason. [ unless conditions tiny of course ] Like the rocker and love overall ease of management of the 6'8". Would like to grab quick some kind of board for conditions a little plus or minus today's caliber.. fyi 125 -130 lbs, kooky, and no prob horsing around midbeach on days like this Fri. Cheap junker is more than fine...as long as it's in one piece.

Feel free to chime in? Or email madisoncuckoo at yahoo dot com

Shit, I should have recognised the backside.

OK, I was the hooded allblack on the Bonzer with blue trim.

Who's the slightly built dark goateed guy?

friend#1, i was the guy who smiled at you when you walked up onto the highway (i had a camera) though in the water, orange& brown board and blue and black wetsuit.

i tried to get the interaction between you and the coptor, but i zoomed out too quick and the moment was over...

Did you have a blue camera or something attached to your neck? Otherwise you may have morphed into that guy in my recollection. I remember you being out there though connecting you on the promenade with the surfer in the water.

Blakestah, I got something for you to rotate on....HA

Just kidding, I don't want to start another incident.

No M10 for me. Red deck on my sled. White rails. I don't recall seeing a bonzer. Was it more of a funboard-ish looking thing? Always just a bit north of the pack Friend #1 with a rogue surfer between you and the pack where fins tend to rotate?

wish i knew what you guys look like i was out just south of the first lot sloat, imagine all you were around me just dont know who the hell you are....

friend #1 was south of you, kaiser, then he was the loner north...truth be told, he was staying on peak, everyone else drifted south...

Elias was not the guy with the water camera. He's a skinny dude with dark hair who was catching two waves for every wave I got.

Kaiser's long blond braids are coming in nicely. You may have seen her featured in such hits as "man that lip hurt the back of my neck" and "superman 5 - over the falls" while riding her M10 board.

friend #1's bonzer says EATON on the deck, and he was wearing a hood.

Sorry for the product pitch here, but if you are wearing a camera around your neck, you should consider thying out the HeroCam. Wise and Aqua both have them...$30 & reloadable.

Outside online article about Bodysurfing at the Wedge

Oh, Doof mentioned there was a talkative crew to the north and one of them was wearing a headband/earmuff sort of thing that he lost when he got caught inside a set. Who the hell were those guys?

This is me in Brazil with my braids...

wow fun lunch. many perfect waves. Some looked like... i dunno... somewhere else!

Any shaper out there interested in doing a very weird custom shape? i know shapers have their own templates they like to work with, but I've had an idea in my head (where else) for sometime of a board I'd like to try out. Who knows, it probably won't work, but I got this money ya see that I'm trying to rescue from my kids' college funds.

i don't live in sf so i don't name where i surf when i do surf your fine city. it's out of respect, for the current locals. i try and live by the golden rule. if you don't that's your business and karma.

i'm fortunate to have grown up here surfing along the coast since 76. the reason i preach vague is vogue is NOT becuase I'm some angry, old, ahh bonehead. it's becuase everyone deserves the opportunity to expereince what it used to be like to surf with just your freinds and a few peeps you've actually seen in the water before.

few weeks back i paddled out for a dawnie at my old favorite spot along the beach. ended up seeing e, introduced myself and left it at that. it was cool to see e surf (he's very humble about his surfing ability btw) put a face to the legend of niceness. funny thing was, he was noticeably bent. his chilled out dp session was chock full of invaders. his local beach had been run over with new peeps disturbing his flow. i could feel his angst and related to his pain. in fact everyone of "us" who has grown up surfing from big sur to ess eff can.

we all are after the same thing. what's wrong with trying to perserve it so another who is seeking can find it?

i didn't think the waves out there were that good today...

psych! good sesh fo'shur....though it had a slow start for me. i couldn't get in the right spot (and/or couldn't commit to the late-ish drop) and had to spin back to last-minute-duck-dive a half-dozen nice ones at the ouset. FINALLY, however, i snagged my first wave and then things settled down. scored a sweet right. maybe the best wave i've had at the beach...maybe not...but still fun!

friend #1...now that i know who you are, i'll be sure to say "hey" next time i see ya. i saw ya catch a number of nice ones. btw...what do you mean "distinctive heavy bowed squint"? you make me sound like Mr. Magoo! ; )

turn of the day (at least that i saw) goes to elias. my buddy and i saw this dude drop into a left as we were jogging down to the water, bottom-turn, and then smack a sweet, lip-annihilating, backside top-turn. once out in the water, i realized that it was our very own, niceness board-shaper-schralper. very nice!

Kaiser...nice "braids".

kaiser doesn't lie. if you look closely you can see the duct tape on his thigh in that picture.

i second the elias as ripper sentiment.

you're too kind about my kookish surfing 3to5.. everyday i love surfing but i feel like the biggest farkin' kook in the water. seriously. today andy olive was out there destroying it. Airs, huge gaffs, etc.. that dude can surf. sucks that you paddled out on the one morning in the last year where it was randomly crowded at the local for no apparent reason. and also i was on the rag that morning... or something.. this morning best conditions ever and only a few happy people. go figure. 3to5.. we should surf again.. tomorrow's dawn-patrol if you're down?

jamaica!

i wish i was surfing right now.

Andy Olive?

Didn't see him out yestarday at Sloat?

I meant distinctive heavy browed squint. But I have seen a picture of you via Bruce, and in the water you looked different. Maybe your hood was compressing all your features together so that you looked heavy browed. That happens to me all the time.

BTW, I planned to surf lastnight and then failed to pull the trigger on the early exit from work. So I consoled myself by trying on wetsuits. There were extra cheap aleedas there, but I got stuck trying to get out of the one I tried on. I seriously needed help getting out. The Xcel felt weird on my shoulders and I didn't even get into the Ripcurl before I knew I would never be able to get out. I guess I got to do Oneil as it was the only one that fit. I don't like all that crosseyed velcro though. Seems like it will just turn into a pilled up furball before long.

heavy browed?

yes please

commitment

That photo of the lip smack and the title "Commitment" would make an awesome cube dweller motivational poster.

Seaside Point Oregon just outside of Portland.

And oh yeah the most localized break on the west coast.

Ocean Beach is better.

j...where'd you get my photograph?!

friend #1...perhaps i wasn't the heavy browed guy afterall. no hood for me this morning. maybe i was the "cuber". damn. i prefer the Washburn reference.

swing states anyone?

http://bluelemur.com/images/stories/evotingbig.gif

Looking at those comparisons, it looks like Kerry voters were more enthusiastic about participating in exit polls than Bush voters were.

e, my cabo trip buired me with work and family obligations, not sure if a surfy surf is in the cards this weekend. (thankfully i'm still glowing with the warmth and stoke of the tropics)
next week, kid is with her mom, wife is out of town, and the boss is cool with the occasional dawnie. i'm just hoping the groovy weather holds up. until then PEACE.

this time of year some of you may wonder what to do with all that "leaf". Here's a suggestion:

Herb's Chocolate Brownies

1. Melt together 1 stick butter and 2-3 squares unsweetened chocolate add an appropriate amount of fresh "leaf"(chopped fine or ground in a coffee grinder) stir for another minute, take the saucepan off the heat.

2. Stir in 1 cup sugar, add 2 eggs and 1/2 teaspoon vanilla, and beat the mixture well.

3. Stir in 1/4 cup all-purpose flour and 1/4 teaspoon salt. (In the original recipe, 1 cup chopped walnuts is added here as well.)

4. Bake the brownies in a buttered and floured 8-inch-square pan at 325°F for about 40 minutes. Let cool. SHARE & ENJOY

sketchy sketch sketchy, what kind of third world country are we living in? this is one county in one state, that the malfunction was obvious.

http://www.cnn.com/2004/ALLPOLITICS/11/05/voting.problems.ap/index.html

time to drink...

fresh email from a friend in SD..."surfed the point just now. 4-5 foot glassy and great direction. Aside from losing my board way outside on a clean up set whose section I couldn't quite come around after the drop,I had quite the zenful session with waves redirecting right toward me. Many of the sections were pretty steep  for a change with a little bit of medium lowtide rock dodging thrown in for flavor. I actually haven't surfed much lately. Talked to Skip when I got out I think he is still a bit in a daze but stoked just the same."

rza--exit poll results were based on a 12,000 person sample (nationwide). 115 Million people voted. 3-5% difference from exit polls in some states doesn't constitute a conspiracy in my book. there's lots to complain about but i don't think conspiracy or "stolen election" is one of them.

on a happier note...surfing is fun. hope for more of the same tomorrow.

the cnn voting machine post was from me

cgl, good point. i'm glad to see someone else interested in this issue.
history shows that exit polls have always been an accurate way of predicting outcomes. the only time they were questioned was in the last election in Florida. that time Bush won the electoral votes and then all of his supporters said the exit polls were wrong. but we all know that in the end Gore actually won the majority of votes in Florida. so in fact, up until today exit polls have always been correct.
i'm somewhat reluctant to post all this stuff and act like i know everything. but these are extremely important issues and any hint of fraud needs to be examined. what's interesting about the chart that i posted is that exit polls were correct in those states without electronic voting and way off in those states with electronic voting. the coincidence seems a bit much in my eyes. especially considering that the 3 companies that build the electronic voting machines are staunch republican supporters. Diebold actually pledged to give Ohio to Bush last year! and most people should know that the only group against electronic machines without paper trails is the republicans.
maybe in a few years we'll actually know all the details. but i haven't forgotten the lessons we learned last time in florida so it's hard for me to believe the results.

what was great about surfing this morning is that i forgot all about this crap. have a great weekend everyone. sorry if this rambling has bothered anyone.

keep it comin rza. i suspect that many people - including otherwise staunch democrats - will try to quell the discussion about voting machine/exit poll discrepancies and other vote fraud allegations by relegating them to the "statistically insignificant" and/or "conspiracy theory" trashheaps, but that doesn't mean that there isn't something there. and you're right, 2000 provides plenty of reason for post-election scrutiny, even if it is only academic.

and who knows, maybe there are underground programmers working for diebold & the other 2 vote machine makers that are already assembling the info on how manipulable those systems are. the more there is ongoing doubt and buzz about the protential problem, the more likely a story will break. and as we saw with clinton, all it takes is the uncovering of enough deception to open the can of hungry impeachment-loving worms.

related question: why, especially after 2000, is there still a republican monopoly on the voting machine market?

thanks 3to5setsof7, that was indeed timely

for anyone still out there -- here's some interesting but scary reading about just how many chickenhead littles there are within the christian ranks:

http://www.grist.org/news/maindish/2004/10/27/scherer-christian/

whoa...heavy article loon. fascinating and scary stuff...and exactly the reason more surfers need to be extremely concerned about the direction the republican party is taking us.

here's another 'conspiracy' link that is extremely disturbing. these stats take some deciphering but hopefully all the techies on this blog can handle it. doubters may follow the links to the data source at Florida's Dept. of State.

http://ustogether.org/Florida_Election.htm

if these kinds of postings do indeed make me a nut, i'll just have to blame it on my unflinching 'faith' and 'resolve', along with my very strong 'values' and 'convictions'.

so many nugs today it wasn't even funny. adios amigos i'm gone for two weeks starting sunday, enjoy your time with one less fucking sponger in the water.

odd day out there....car upside down on the great highway, cop stuck in the mud on the same road....

Nothing like slogging and dodging through the shorepound, straggling out, and seeing a kid and his dad standing dead ahead , filming your entire episode on digital camera.

the seedling playing in the living room and 5 gallons of red boiling....

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