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Dwindling epic-ness. (epic-less?)

A fabulous, quintessential weekend of surf in the bay area. Saturday late morning witnessed a smorgasbord of high-quality, ripper-friendly juicy peaks. Literally hundreds of wave-hounds spread from Seal Rock to Lawton. Inner-bar suckout barrels mixed with fun-loving glassy walls mixed with thick evil close-out destruction. It was great to see the Beach really working. Last Tuesday and Friday were beautiful and chilled-out, but Saturday was beautiful and high-performance. Saw heaps of niceness crew in the water Saturday. Watched Lewis crack the lip with authority on his forehand. Just a little inside wave where he bottom-turned and then whipped up vertical to attack the lip. Saw Tom out there and chatted it up with him until a bulbous, attractive peak came to me.. I took off and kind-of air-dropped/pig-dogged into the pit but then got crunched by the closeout barrel. Came up to watch Tom take off backside on a similar wave… niiice.. Cool to see Renan out there too. Bagel and I traded waves for a while. The evenflow romeo maestro from malibo dropped into some gaping, extra-strong punchy grinders. It was cool to hoot him into beasty waves that were obviously gonna spin and barrel. He just stayed all chill, stroked resolutely.. dropped down all loose and relaxed.. bottom turned, then looked for lips to kiss. A great session.

Then yesterday VFers looked similar, if not a bit smaller. Looked like highly enjoyable small-wave surfing on offer. I was tempted.. But.. a friend and I went on a road-trip to a tucked-away, tranquil, longboard-friendly location. Family style. Dog friendly. We borrowed a huge 9 foot log (thanks Brett!) and paddled out into the almost lake-like Pacific. The pacific Pacific. This was CJ’s third try at surfing and her first somewhere other than OB. Her past two sessions she caught maybe 3 rides each on her belly. This time she caught maybe 8 or 9 rides and got to her feet 3 times! The giant longboard was pretty unwieldy and had a tendency to pearl but it also floated like a pier and caught the tiniest of wavelets. It was awesome to see CJ pop to her feet a few times. She didn't really last very long in a standing position but she got up there.. I'm proud of her!! She was stoked but also a bit frustrated. She’s hankering for some real down-the-line voyages. I took the log out for a spin after she went in with claw-like, frostbitten feet and hands and geez.. i full-on pearled on my first wave on that thing. Again.. I have no idea how you longboarders work your magic on those unresponsive beasts. I snagged a long down the line ride on my second try but I felt like Gidget or something as I jiggled to stay balanced on the huge plank-like singlefin. I would have liked to try a few more waves but it was time to roll.. I think that I’m a 3-finned shortboarder for life. I feel like a fish out of water on a longboard or a singlefin.. I just feel so unbalanced and 50’s style dorky. But.. maybe I need a full week at a little 2-ft Baja pointbreak with a ten foot longboard and some friends. That would be rad. Later we drove for a while then hiked to some out-of-the-way beaches and saw some mysto waves all glassy and working with nobody around. Hmmmm…

This morning I didn’t check it but dawn-patrol stalwarts Lerm and Kaiser gave it a miss.. declaring conditions “small, mushy and barely surfable.”

AI - three-time world champ as of yesterday

Whack!


E

Lookout!- there's another kook in the drink. Yesterday was my first session ever. Hooked up with some friends, and we went to a mellow break 6 minutes from home. I spent about 3 hours in the water. It took me 30 minutes or so, then I started catching waves. The waves were fun---
1'-3', super clean, and coming in all day. The most memorable wave of the day was a left that I actually got into and rode down the line. My friends were going bananas... good times out there, but damn I'm sore. So sweet just being out there. Anyway dood- niceness is being represented
in the beaver state.............

Posted by: heff at November 8, 2004 10:06 AM

I'm very blessed by something or some one some where to have had such fun surf along most of our coast the past week. Celebrated an AWESOME 22nd birthday this weekend, and I'm off to Italy in 10 days. Thanks for the great stoke every day E, this is a rad site to get a lot of different perspectives on what we all love most. SURF!

I have a request: everyone post their favorite (if it's a "hush hush" spot, email me) spot around the world. Not US. I'm planning a 5 to who knows how long month trip around the world, and am curious where niceness heads have gone, and more importantl where they WANT to go. Again, if you don't want to post it here, please email me. Thanks for all the help!
iane at sfsu dot edu

Posted by: Ian at November 8, 2004 10:17 AM

Jocular Jake I'm counting on you!

Posted by: Ian at November 8, 2004 10:18 AM

Check the url for some video from last friday. Blake gets a fun one on his rotating fin board. others of the local crew having fun as well..

Posted by: lp at November 8, 2004 10:19 AM

Ian, while in Rome, check out all the Caravaggio's around town, they are some of the best paintings that most tourists skip over. And go grab a sandwich at Miscellania, to your left and back in the alleyway if you are staring at La Rotunda (Pantheon).

Chiaroscuro til the end!

Oh yeah, surf was great all weekend, had many a narrel.

Posted by: kookdom at November 8, 2004 10:33 AM

yesterday was a blast. good to see kaiser, ck, jess and korewin ripping it up out there. jess you charge! surfed for 3 1/2 hours. basically 'til my arms were about to fall off. novembers rule.

Posted by: lerm at November 8, 2004 10:48 AM

yes stellar weekend. is that elias on that video? i missed it friday. it was actually kind of fun this morning at the ramp till it got windy..

Posted by: bagel at November 8, 2004 11:00 AM

so which one is blakestah?????

Posted by: dsx at November 8, 2004 11:09 AM

stoked AI won it maybe next year for parko


Posted by: bagel at November 8, 2004 11:21 AM

Favorite foto from friday

Posted by: AS at November 8, 2004 11:27 AM

kookdom, thank you kindly for your advice. I will deinately take it! Christian, you're stoked! I wanted to make it to the show, but had an excellent weekend regardless! Big ups to AI, he is definately an exceptional surfer.

Posted by: Ian at November 8, 2004 11:30 AM

ob gladly handed me my ass on saturday early. i expereinced a total disconnect between ability, ambition, desire, muscles, and reflexes. i had an epic session of tumble-downs, flailing, and "take the set on the head" manuevers. a "charecter building" session for sure. not even a redemption wave in. serious karma evaluation back on the sand. i might have contracted "cantsurf". stoked to hear that niceness peeps were having a better go at thier peaks.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 8, 2004 11:34 AM

Great run of surf we have had! Today, not so appealing if you surfed last week or floated around at all on Sunday in the sun or even if you snapped your board into a billion pieces on Saturday.

Today we were welcomed with some crumbly little waves. The winds were pretty fair from the W at the bouy and light at the beach but the lump vs. swell size created a bleek situation. I am sure it was fun if you headed out but I decided a day off might be a good thing after about 4.5 hours in the water yesterday.

So, Irons won the crown but lost his heat in round 3. Slates just won his. Brucey got knocked out. Taj is surfing now. Lots of Brazos still in there representin!

I am a pro-ho, I drive an SUV, but who cares.....

Posted by: Kaiser at November 8, 2004 11:48 AM

proho. ha
good surf dudes.
cheers to more!

Posted by: elias at November 8, 2004 11:56 AM

lerm...that IS elias in the video.

i LOVE november too.

and the favorite photo from friday makes
me cry. i was in south carolina. FARK!

good to see you out there yesterday...
my arms are killing me too. but so worth it.

here's to more of the same. PLEASE...

Posted by: korewin at November 8, 2004 12:06 PM

I'm completely exhausted, and taking a forced but welcome day off. Had a lot of fun out there mid-beach all three days but also a good bit of what 3to5 is talking about---too many just-missed great waves, too many kooked take-offs (a couple on Saturday had my body skittering down the face--kind of fun!), bottom-turns too late to keep up with the wave, cutbacks too late to stay on the wave . . . you name it! Some reasonably redeeming rides in the mix, but not many where I felt I'd really done well, even by my standards.

Posted by: klooless at November 8, 2004 12:16 PM

OB is 1-3 foot and a tad onshore, but this DP was near glassy and suprisingly fun on the Flying Brick. Actually found a couple small but walled up long rides, best I've had on that board. Also really embarrassing to pearl a big log in hip high schtuff - what the...? - your commentary is appreciated, e!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 8, 2004 12:23 PM

Ever get one of those waves that fills every other thought for a week or so? My mind is still surfing some of the waves from a few days back.

E, Thursday is good with me, and I'll have a bunch of new stuff from the past two weeks...

Posted by: mexi at November 8, 2004 12:25 PM

AS, gret shot, perfect timing. A polarizer would help give a little more color . Workshop today, no kids...

Posted by: mexi at November 8, 2004 12:33 PM

Just got back from France, was away for 2 weeks. Sorry to see the election result but oh well. I'm trying to figure out a new DP strategy and am thinking motorcycle + bodyboard might be the ticket. (My wife and I only have one car but I do have a bike.) A few years ago, I was hoping to find a place like someone's garage or a surf shop where I could stash my board. Then I could ride there on my bike and still surf. Suggestions welcome.

Posted by: Nate at November 8, 2004 12:46 PM

I am this one
http://www.blakestah.com/fins/demo3.mov

Posted by: blakestah at November 8, 2004 12:56 PM

mexi...i know just what you mean! i have one of those from Friday and another from Saturday. any week that has two such waves is pretty frickin' stellar in my books!

niceness seriously representing all weekend! fun sesh yesterday fo'shur. although the fact that i tweaked my back something bad and couldn't even stand up straight after the sesh (a condition that remains solidly in affect today) was a bit of a bummer. thus, it looks like i'm back on the DL for a while. shiet. oh well....in the meantime i'll have to be content experiencing the stoke vicariously via all you heads.

e...sounds like cool times with CJ (your lady?) yesterday. i remember seshies like that with my lady and feeling super-proud....a feeling that i was reminded of yesterday when a buddy who hadn't met my girl before saw her in the water and commented to me, "have you seen that girl? she charges!". very cool.

Posted by: ck at November 8, 2004 12:59 PM

Heff!!! stoked to hear that you're surfing!! that's sick!

caribean

Posted by: e at November 8, 2004 12:59 PM

figures - i'm outta town for 3 days and the waves start firing. i'm leaving tomorrow morning for 3 days in kansas city, so expect some more good surf to start rolling in and the niceness crew to represent.

that friday pic is disgusting...

Posted by: caveman at November 8, 2004 01:04 PM

CK- sorry to hear about the back- as a chronic back trouble guy I have referals to a good chiropractor and a great massuese. You know where I am.

E- is that Carrib. pic Puerto Rico? I surfed a set up that looks like it could be the one pictured. It was good but not that good but I had my suspicions that it could be. The warm water looks awfully good. I was cold this weekend.

Posted by: goodmorning at November 8, 2004 01:06 PM

goodmorning.. i think the photo is from the dominican republic..

caribean
carribean
carribian
caribian

I fucking can't spell worth shit!!

ck - that sucks my friend!! get better quick!

Posted by: e at November 8, 2004 01:14 PM

I too was gone Sat/Sun. Helped out a couple of my buddies with their farmers market booth (they sell smoked salmon). They are trying out some of the L.A. markets. So after watching my kids all day Sat, we made the run down to L.A. that night. I worked the Beverly Hills market that morning. Loaded everything back up that afternoon and got home last night. BRUTAL!!! And those peeps in Bev Hills...FREAKS. So of course it was a fun weekend surf.

And if you were around last year for Thanksgiving, you remember that I also left town...which, of course, coincided with an epic stretch of surf....Same thing this year, so I'm sure it will again be a fantastic week. HA! I feel your pain caveman!

Posted by: jdz at November 8, 2004 01:22 PM

Dizzyland North was going off on Saturday and I got a few good photos. But while I was out the laptop got an STD so I couldn't post the pics. I'm taking naughty Hewlitt P. to Dr. Norton for treatment, and hopefully can share tomorrow.

Sunday was pretty frumpy and smaller at Lizard Lane. But what the heck, I actually had a few very fast shoulder-high waves that made the paddle out worth it. Damn, the weather was nice.

Posted by: Lizard at November 8, 2004 01:36 PM

btw...blakestah...if i recall correctly, you mentioned on your site yesterday that someone stole your surf-mobile! frick! so sorry to hear it. any luck finding it and/or the thieves? i hope things work out for you.

thanks for the well-wishes e and goodmorning.

Posted by: ck at November 8, 2004 01:39 PM

friday definitely remains the highlight for me, but sat & sun were great too. over 2hrs in the water both days, just couldn't get enough.

lowlight of the weekend was on sunday. i paddled out on the north end around 11:30 right into a pack of guys that includes this one shortish aggro dude with a little flavor saver patch below his lip, riding a light blue board. dude had himself in a tizzy over what he perceived was a deliberate transgression by a longer-haired blond guy. story itself sounded suspicious because the transgressor was riding behind the aggro dude - couldn't help thinking perhaps it was actually a drop-in? anyway, aggrodude was just spewing hate, randomly screaming 'fucking faggot' and blathering on to all who would listen about wanting to kill the guy but there being too many people around. one of the people was was ktvu weatherman bill martin - i wanted to aks him why he doesn't report swell forecasts on the news but aggrodude was distracting everyone out there with his hate, there was a wierd silence. eventually the aggroguy went in and i proceeded to have a blast out there despite feeling really sad for that guy and whatever happened to him that he could be such an idiot in front of so many people and not show any sign of self-awareness. anyone else out there then? am i misrepresnting what happened? anyone know who this might have been just from the description? does this guy have any friends that could help him get some counseling?

ian, happy bday. i am back recently from a trip that included stops in rome & florence, and have several recommendations, particularly for great tours in each place (uffizi gallery in florence, vatican in rome), let me know if you want more info... pnmcs -- at -- comcast dot net...

ck, hope you're on the mend soon!

Posted by: loon at November 8, 2004 01:45 PM

anyone interested in a brand-new, still-in-the-box 15gig IPOD for $250?

i bought it for a friend who received the same gift from someone else.

kick me an email at cranial_bulge@yahoo.com

Posted by: e at November 8, 2004 01:51 PM

is this guy gonna get barrelled? (sbsarge photo)

Posted by: e at November 8, 2004 01:56 PM

ck, get well dude! you rode some nice waves friday. i think that mother OB wants you back soon.

STTTRRRRREEEEETTTCCCCCCHH

GO AWAY RAIN.

ian, dude, i havn't skated in awhile. but yes dude. lets skate soon. i'll give a call or call me.? maybe after italy? and Happy birthday too!

Posted by: elias at November 8, 2004 02:00 PM

Damn Loon, I don't think I would have dealt with that very well.

Sunday was a strange day indeed. Lots of aggression in the water for sure. I can think of 4 occasions in which I was either dropped in on or "prevented" from paddling in a direction I wanted to go. Just general bad ettique out there. But, that is what happens with good stretches of surf and glassy conditions. It felt like I was surfing in SoCal at times. But, then the current finally had its way and killed any built up vibe.

Posted by: Kaiser at November 8, 2004 02:03 PM

I saw a few scenes of this video over the weekend. Pretty sick stuff...check it out.

http://www.surfermag.com/av/indo/scndthghts/

Posted by: tom at November 8, 2004 02:13 PM

e, that guy got barrelled.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 8, 2004 02:29 PM

E, Thursday??

CK,, Glucosamine, did you try it??? it works well.

Posted by: mexi at November 8, 2004 02:35 PM

thought this was interesting. didn't realize CA had so much GOP.

http://www.cnn.com/ELECTION/2004/pages/results/states/CA/P/00/map.html

Posted by: j at November 8, 2004 02:40 PM

i second the glucosamine recommendation for anyone w/ funky joint issues. takes about 3.5 weeks before you notice anything, but than one day you'll realize that you don't feel what you felt before.

Posted by: j at November 8, 2004 02:41 PM

Can someone show me how to do this? Or just send me a quick email description...

Yeah, thanks...

Posted by: Kaiser at November 8, 2004 02:47 PM

Second Thoughts is a great surf vid b.c of the amazing hand held camera in the looooong barrels.

Was up North all weekend, south to you fools, and got it verrrry good at J@(#*&(. Love that ride through the countryside to get there. Never was windy, which if you know that spot, is a huge blessing. Glassy, cold, kelpy, FUn, fast. Ahhh. Then topped it off with a mellow fun session at C street at sunset.

Great stories from you SF heads, keep the stoke comin'!!!

Posted by: Hb at November 8, 2004 02:50 PM

in light of his birthday....

IAN FOR PRESIDENT!!!!!

Posted by: j at November 8, 2004 02:53 PM

arggh.. mexi.. i'm pretty sure that i'm road-tripping south on thursday after work.. Robme, Lerm, MWSF, robme's friend Gary and hopefully robme's son Silus are headed to the central coast for a long weekend of waves, campfires and shenanegens.

dooood!!! next week let's do it.

or tomorrow or wed?

Posted by: e at November 8, 2004 03:01 PM

thanks, elias, i hope that you're right!

mexi...yeah...i've been taking glucosamine ever since you recommended it and i think it has helped. just not this time i guess. my issue is a compacted disc near the bottom of my spine. most of the time it's fine, but then every now and again, it just goes and i get all tweaked and hobble around like an old-man. no fun.

Posted by: ck at November 8, 2004 03:09 PM

Nate: not a garage but poss. space for board
madisoncuckoo at yahoo

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 8, 2004 03:09 PM

I need somebody to kick my butt. What I mean is, on the bigger and steeper waves, I find myself backing out. Not so much the size, just the really steep drops. I feel comfortable enough on bigger waves when I can get into them early. Maybe I should get a personal coach or something to get me to push myself over the edge.

Went out twice on Sat and twice on Sunday. Saturday was mostly no problem, but on Sunday round two, I just couldn't get into the bigger waves early enough to meet my liking. I think it was nerves more than tiredness. So I backed out of a few and never got any of the biggies. I only got some of the insiders which were barely more than OH.

I'm changing my name to Chicken Man. You'll see me out there in a yellow wettie making eggs instead of making waves.

Posted by: Dennis at November 8, 2004 03:12 PM

ck, hit up kaiser for my work address, i've got a chiro who may be able to help you w/ the disc...

Posted by: j at November 8, 2004 03:15 PM

Since I am also a surf video slut, I thought I would pass this along:

Surf flicks you can buy at Tower Records for cheap, all on DVD:
Second Thoughts
Kelly Slater in Black and White
Endless Summer
Step Into Liquid
Circle One
A few others....

I just hooked up Second Thoughts for $11.99.

Posted by: Kaiser at November 8, 2004 03:16 PM

SIL pretty much sucked and you know it Kaiser.

Trying to be TOO much like your pop's sucks out your soul even though you are trying to keep it alive.

Posted by: Hb at November 8, 2004 03:41 PM

HB, couldn't agree more. Disappointed with the results of $2.5 million budget and 3 years in the making.

It doesn't crack my top 25 to be honest.

Posted by: Kaiser at November 8, 2004 03:47 PM

bagel, when are you gonna update your site??

Posted by: j at November 8, 2004 03:53 PM

The only thing SIL and Endless Summers had in common was creating more crowds by making surfing more popular!

Posted by: mainstream surf movies suck at November 8, 2004 04:00 PM

answer.... yes, he got barrelled

Posted by: snake at November 8, 2004 04:00 PM

Here's another one from Friday....unknown setting up to pull-in.

Posted by: AS at November 8, 2004 04:04 PM

12 hours in a plane and now i am in NZ.

I am heading to ragland tommorrow. I am in aukland now. I'll give my take on the place if anyone is into it. A swell is suppose to be there. so i am keeping my fingers crossed. then on to taranaki.

maybe i'll post some pics if I get that far.

out

Posted by: phil at November 8, 2004 04:05 PM

doh

oh man only if i knew the true answer to that question. ya see, i subscribe to laziness magazine and the mail man delivers a new issue almost everyday. my girlfriend should take alot of the blame too. i have comics online that ive been also lazy about if you havent seen em..www.doublefine.com/news/actioncomics.. good time wasting material check epic saga by raz

Posted by: bagel at November 8, 2004 04:09 PM

those pictures of friday are awesome!

Posted by: bagel at November 8, 2004 04:11 PM

speaking of tower records. just bought the Zultons cd. that is some funky new sh*t. anyone else got any new sounds they are grooving on?

Hb, i love that twisty drive. many "moments" in the old 67 bug pushing it on that road. so many stories to tell from there. i'm about even in the skunked vs. score category. glad to hear you scored. was it crowded?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 8, 2004 04:23 PM

new releases from the following all rock:
the fall
nick cave
bjork
sluts of trust
doug hillsinger & caroleen beatty
dirty power
the music lovers

kill me some more with the friday i missed please!

Posted by: goodmorning at November 8, 2004 04:45 PM

i have a lifetime sub to that mag.

i feel like i know a bit more about bagel after read his comics.

Posted by: j at November 8, 2004 04:48 PM

bagel knows indiana jones!!!

Posted by: j at November 8, 2004 04:49 PM

holy sh*$#*@$(%* i spoke too early, he knows CHEWIE!!!!

Posted by: j at November 8, 2004 04:49 PM

More crowded than the last time i was there, a no-excuse-for 2 years ago. A lot more longer boards flying around too. I think newbies see it from the cliff and think it looks easy and then get down there and it is ON.

Goddamn, that road musta been fun to drive in your bug.

enough yappin' from me.

Posted by: Hb at November 8, 2004 05:04 PM

WOW. Check this out.....

I think I would have just paddled in but that is just me:

http://members.westnet.com.au/recruit/Hawaiian_Beatdown.wmv

Posted by: Kaiser at November 8, 2004 05:15 PM

You guys rock, thank you all for the bday wishes. Still stoked from the waves! Elias, we'll skate soon man!

Posted by: Ian at November 8, 2004 05:20 PM

ian! happy b-day home-slice!

bagel.. that comic is fargin high-larious!!

Posted by: e at November 8, 2004 05:34 PM

ian, feliz cumpleanos amigo.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 8, 2004 05:38 PM

Damn, this is funny!

http://www.doublefine.com/comics/BAGELS/MCAM13.jpg

Posted by: mwsf at November 8, 2004 05:40 PM

AS.. thanks for posting those photos! stoked..

3to5.. i thought you were out this weekend.. now i feel all rejected and shit.. you could've puffed and jammed with Bagel and me.

next time..

Posted by: e at November 8, 2004 05:41 PM

thanks yo's

Posted by: bagel at November 8, 2004 06:03 PM

Up here behind the redwood curtain the Monday lesson was the letter "A" as in A-Frames. Maybe todays lesson will be "B" as in Barrels.

Posted by: sponger at November 9, 2004 08:00 AM

I had a badass time Sunday evening at Linda Mar. I've only surfed 8 or 9 times myself, and this was only my 3rd time with my own board. I've got a 9' softop, and I stood up maybe 6 or 7 times which was totally awesome for me.

It was nice because the waves were the exact right height for me. The frequency was a little sparse, but there weren't many people out, so that was alright.

I was so caught up that I didn't get out until around 5:30. The ocean gets spooky at night.

Posted by: Josh at November 9, 2004 10:47 PM

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