« E's Gone, E's Gone..... | Main | fantastico »

Peaky, glassy head-high chillness.

Pretty unreal out there this morning. Nothing huge or intimidating, just a heaping portion of rippable, picturesque, chiseled dream waves. Maybe a bit on the small and inconsistent side. I surfed for an hour with Lerm and we had a good time. Too bad my body and brain were relatively pureed from 3 days of non-stop surfing, driving, camping and merrymaking. Here’s a highlight reel from the central coast trip:

- Thursday night last jam on the electric guitar, get gear ready, psyche-up.

- Friday morning get picked up at 6. Check OB.. almost surf there but start the mission south. Robme, Silus (Robme’s 5yr old son) and I in one car, MWSF and Lerminade in the other.

- The coast is super-mega flat all the way down.

- Get to Wadell and it’s peaky and fun. Waist high. Warm sunny California day with offshore wind. We’re out there. I nab a nice little narrel on the backside. Silus gets in his mini-wetty and life-vest and gets some rides. We’re all stoked. Get out of the water after 2 hours and the wind immediately shifts and starts blowing onshore! The gods are shining on us so far.

- Slices at Pleasure Pizza

- See Santa Claus in a van near Moss Landing

- Decide to drive through Big Sur

- Try to scare Silus with ghost stories.

- Ridiculously beautiful and grandiose Big Sur!

- Wind ripping the water into white-caps, think there’s no way we’ll get an afternoon session.

- Find a campground immediately across the street from an otherwordly surf-beach (huge cliffs, mountain backdrop, surreal sea-stacks, clear water, fresh aromas, etc).

- Set up camp around 3:15, suit-up and run across the street for a surf check.

- Robme is all psyched to surf until he realizes that his wetty is still on the rocks at Waddell, exactly where he left it 3 hours before. D’oh!

- Deliberation about what to do (drive 2 hours right now to buy another suit for Robme?).. Decide to stay and wait till morning. Lerm, MWSF and I go for a stony surf and enjoy fun, arvo-glass-off, uncrowded, punchy Big Sur beachbreak succulence. Immaculate, multi-hued sunset. Coyote howls.

- That night we tell ghost stories, jam on guitars, drink beers, nug, crash.

- Next morning radiant sunshine and uplifting, enchanting Big Sur beauty. Local beachie not working. Spots south not working.. nothing really working. Drive down to Cayucos. Get Robme a wettie. Tiny glassy waves. Silos and Robme get a little surf in. 2pm we think the swell will arrive. 3pm still no swell. 3:30 still no swell.. We drive back north.. thinking maybe an end-of-day session at our big sur beachie..

- Signs of new swell at 3:45 on the way back!

- Suit up and run down at 4:10. Swell is macking!!!

- No way we can paddle out. Get absolutely rejected.

- Awesome session on the inside reforms. Snag one of the gnarlier waves I’ve surfed in a while. Doubling-up, wedging, dredging, backless, glassy race-track. Sprint down the line going mach 18. Fuck yeah! Crazy session. Return to camp exhilarated.

- Sound of the swell exploding and thundering through our campground. LOUD!! Rest of the camp-party has arrived. Huge meal laid out by Robme’s wife. Robme birthday celebration. Guitars, songs, stories, scary-stories, whiskey, hashish, beers, soup, cake, fire, marshmallows, swell booming in the background. Stars overhead. Persius. Orion. Milky Way. Bed.

- Pack up and roll. Drive down the coast. Breath-taking glassiness mixed with powerful NW groundswell corduroy. Magic stretch of coast. People surfing nutty, psycho cen-cal mysto points and reefs. Exploratory adventure-surf charging! Much respect! Crazy waves!!! 3 or 4 day-a-year-type-waves. We pass. Pass on some more spots with big crowds or not-quite-working setups.. Eventually end up at Studio Drive and it looks amazing.. speed-change into wetties just as the wind turns onshore.. Crappy 45-minute session of poundings and ok rides. We feel skunked. Decide to drive north in our wetties.. Check out a reef we saw. Get there and it’s glassy and idyllic. Last of the surfers getting out of the water.

- Robme, Lerm and I proceed to surf gorgeous, glassy California reef-break sweetness for 2 hours by ourselves on a Sunday afternoon during a major swell with no-one else around!! Magic! We hoot each-other and take-turns and have a blast and basically look at each-other in disbelief at our good fortune. Amazing end to a stellar weekend. Still warming my heart and mind as i write this.

- Get pizza

- drive home.

any stories from the swell up here? OB? Mavs? Jetty? Mysto-spots?

triple crown photos

Derek Ho

Lady charger

That was an amazing weekend! We definitely have to do that more often. Heard the swell was huge here. Anyone get any? Christian, sorry we missed you.

Posted by: lerm at November 15, 2004 10:27 AM

who is that girl in the Barrel in that picture second from the bottom???????

Geez,Id wear a bikini if i could surf like that.

Posted by: slack jawed at November 15, 2004 10:30 AM

Big. Bigger. Big.

Shoulders sore. More this morning, not as big. Water draining out my nose.

Posted by: Kaiser at November 15, 2004 10:31 AM

aaa the luck favors the fortunate

Posted by: jambi at November 15, 2004 10:35 AM

killer phillis diller..you guys scored! nice recap e..saturday was crazy went out on my fish cause the waves looked small and blown out, 2.5 hours later im getting pounded by offshore overhead peaks, that darn ocean...

Posted by: bagel at November 15, 2004 10:39 AM

slack jawwed.. i'm pretty sure that dark-skinned ripper-chick is megan Abubu

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 10:52 AM

Blakestah
Where's my lolipop?

Posted by: sunday @ aves at November 15, 2004 11:04 AM

sunday about 11am saw the lamest drop-in. guy caught a nice, clean overhead+ right between wise and vfw, some ass dropped in and forced him to cut back and he had to bail because it was either hit the drop inner or hit a dude paddling out who was trying to get behind him and would have if not for the drop in. it wasn't even crowded out there, just a total dick move. drop ins always suck but in waist high or

Posted by: venting at November 15, 2004 11:06 AM

drop ins always suck but in waist high or less summer surf no biggie, but when its head high+ CHECK YOURSELF FOOLS!!!

Posted by: ventiong finishing previous rant at November 15, 2004 11:08 AM

YO E!! and lerm too!!
nice score there kids....

i must say that i too took part of some
central calif. niceness at morro bay.
love those rocky heads for surf. no paddle
no duck dive—only steer.

it was 10 > 15 ft faces on the sets and gnarly
sectiony but FUN. gotts to say ob is a heavyweight
mike tyson punch in comparison. even though
these were large, felt more like a middleweight jab.
nice crew out but after an hour everyone cleared the
water and i was the only soul out and felt a bit
creeped....visions of landlord dancing in my head.

this a.m. was stellar. i feel like the little brother
in "a christmas story"—"i can't put my arms down."
or up or anything real well.

Posted by: korewin at November 15, 2004 11:08 AM

crab season today

butter

garlic

bread

crab

woot!

buy it straight off the boat down at the jetty

Posted by: at November 15, 2004 11:10 AM

uh... REELING.

sunday. somwhere around the harvest bouy.
so good. i cant even think straight.

best quote from the sesh....

intro...
we pull up. glassy big waves hitting the shore. phenominal.
totally epic. seriously. HOT sunny and bejezus. we talk to this guy who had his camera out.

"you should have been here earlier. it was even better!"

aleutian juice delivers.

Posted by: elias at November 15, 2004 11:13 AM

Spent the weekend up around Jenner. Unreal stretch of coast. Driving 1 north on Saturday evening with the sun going down. Stopping at overlooks watching giant cordurory lines marching, wrapping, and pounding mysto reefs and cliff protected beaches without a human in sight. Beautiful coast, but gnarly.

Posted by: tucker at November 15, 2004 11:14 AM

damn...sounds like an awesome trip e and crew. can't wait to do the same with my boys...only about two more years...

totally sidelined this weekend with a cold/sinus infection thing...probably picked up from one of my little disease vectors. got to get in the water soon!!!! arrrgh.

Posted by: jdz at November 15, 2004 11:16 AM

sunday was a classic. here's post session late pm pic somewhere between Big Sur and Bolinas. a rare day of light crowds and good vibes, taking turns getting shacked and laughing all the back home.

Posted by: dsx at November 15, 2004 11:24 AM

Yesterday was sick full on wedges with 8-10 ft peaks and 5 foot solid shoulders. Two crazy standups showing us bodyboarders that we are'nt the only ones who can take insane drops. Props to you two guys. Conditions lasted for two hours till the tide dropped to low and the drops were unmakable.

Posted by: sponger at November 15, 2004 11:37 AM

Loved the Humbolt talk/stories over the weekend. Stoked.

Swell was a closeout mess down here. Should have been more fun, or better yet, should have not surfed the local beachie.

big sur is amazing. sounds like what a camp/surf trip should be like.

Posted by: Hb at November 15, 2004 11:38 AM

Sunday was so fun at OB. So glad I sacked up and charged it. Only got a couple good rides but they were thrilling. Even had a blast on a major 2 second freefall wipeout that I took. After diving under 2 more mackers, I thought to myself "I sure am happy I only smoked 12 cigs instead of 13 yesterday "

Posted by: traut at November 15, 2004 11:44 AM

raarrrhrahhahhgh!

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 11:46 AM

You Avenues guys are probably tired of SC photos, but I nabbed a few fun ones here

Yesterday's sunrise was really something with the swell showing. It seemed to peak around mid morning and some of the bigger sets were thumping. I saw two broken boards and some pretty long hold downs.

Posted by: Bruce at November 15, 2004 11:49 AM

Brucey, I knew I should have answered that call.....

That has my name on it. And I would have gone left but that is just me....

Elias, get your ticket. I'll meet you for drinks Thursday night.

Posted by: Kaiser at November 15, 2004 12:19 PM

nice recap e! sorry to hear about the wetsuit robme.

on sat i was out on the north end as the swell started to build and the tide sucked out. big crowd but everyone seemed to be on good behavior - mother ocean was asserting herself as boss. didn't get much besides one big ol left slab, but that was all i needed.

was fired up to take out my bigger board on sun and hunt & peck my way into something out there but someone put some nasty head cold germs in my tequila, and i could barely make it out of bed all day. did manage to get up around sunset and take a few pics, here's a link to an album, sorry about the loss of resolution, lemme know if anyone wants full-size copies...

http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeANm7FkzaOGz5A

Posted by: loon at November 15, 2004 12:22 PM

No surf this weekend. I shouldda gone in yesterday afternoon, but noticed too late that the conditions had turned kookable. Had driven the beach in the morning and saw a few takers south, several abortive attempts (yielding a total of one biiig drop) at the way-fierce mid-beach, and a bunch of surfers on merely DOH nuggets north. I was tempted to paddle out north, where I saw some possibly paddlable "lulls" between those A-frames, thumping closeouts, and a few spitting overhead barrels (didn't see anyone luck into them), but a momentary burst of lucidity overtook me. (I also tried to video some rides, but nothing came out well.) Serious props to those of you who took it on!

Posted by: klooless at November 15, 2004 12:27 PM

bumming i'm away

Posted by: bbr at November 15, 2004 12:42 PM

BBR you better not let your new wife hear you say that on your honeymoon!

Posted by: DAK at November 15, 2004 12:50 PM

I went out early Sat morning in waist high fun/slop and every new set of waves got a half foot bigger. I finished up when the wind and tide took hold around 9:30. Awesome to watch the surf kick up and clean up so much in just a few hours. By early afternoon it was doh+ and a hint of offshore.

Sunday I humbly bowed out. I did watch a mid-beach drop and counted 3 seconds from take off to bottom turn. The shoulder was relatively short but the rider did the honorary kickout with both arms straight up in the victory pose. Well deserved. Saw a few rippers out there while wishing I was one of them.

Posted by: Dennis at November 15, 2004 12:58 PM

Jabberwocky fulminations
Parsimonious scree
Malevolent perturbations
Aardvarkian glee

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 01:13 PM

yippppee!

Posted by: elias at November 15, 2004 01:22 PM

still sidelined by my back, but joined in the swell event by taking stills and shooting some film on Kaiser's Super-8. i think that got some great footage and pics (including some of the resident niceness superman himself), but won't know fo'shur until it's developed. one dude on a red'ish board was absolutely killing it around 11:30 or so yesterday at the south end. a third or more of the ridden waves were ridden by him and he threw a couple of sweet top-side turns that put him solidly back in the pocket and revealed his confidence and prowess. too fine!

funny how many dudes came up to me asking, "Did you get that long left (right) about ___ minutes ago?". (Mexi and Bruce...you must get a kick outta such questions all of the time!) i hated having to dash their hopes by telling them that it was film (not video) and 35mm (not digital) pics; i.e., no internet postings of their steller rides. maybe Kaiser can cut this in with some of his other footage from months past and get it digitized for future posting?

i'm hoping to be able to get back out there by the end of the week, but in the meantime i will continue to be a jonesin' spectator!

e...sounds like a sic trip.

Posted by: ck at November 15, 2004 01:30 PM

ck - hope your back gets better soon!

some good reads here at skaterock.com

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 01:36 PM

Props to everyone who paddled out on Sunday, what a show.

I'm going to start labeling every little bruise and nick after street names. With luck I'll collect the entire alphabet. fyi J, thanks for the loaner board, we recently picked up the letter Q - no worries, the board is fine ;)

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at November 15, 2004 02:07 PM

i just spit coffee on my keyboard, thanks s.s.!

Posted by: j at November 15, 2004 02:51 PM

here come the squid

Posted by: g at November 15, 2004 02:52 PM

Shark Attack:

http://www.transworldsurf.com/surf/features/article/0,19929,782429,00.html

Posted by: Goyo at November 15, 2004 03:07 PM

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 03:18 PM

Kaiserland in Brazil

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 03:21 PM

I too was away this past weekend. Surfed Oceanside Harbour with the Doof and an old High School Buddy. I used my buddy's equipment as I flew (Doof drove and is down there for a week). Would have loved the small peaks on my LB, but had to make do with a 7'0" semigun. At least Doof traded his 7'6" Bonzer with me for a few waves.

Today was a Righteous Homecoming. Just got back from a Lunch Sess out front. Waves Waves Waves. I was loving my 8'0" Bonzer out there. Almost Nonstop paddling or riding for 2 hours. So much fun.

20 people spread-out on the peak I was on. Funny how empty it looked from the promenade on my way in. Worth the parking ticket I got for being a dumbfuck and parking on the wrong side of my street instead of using the driveway.

Thank you Doof for the Sacrifice.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 15, 2004 03:24 PM

chili

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 03:24 PM

Sunday, low-light photo late afternoon

Posted by: AS at November 15, 2004 03:40 PM

E, nice work finding my links in Brazil...

Forgot about the 8mm! Let's hope the rolls come out well. I might need to pick some more up as we cashed 3 rolls out there.

Posted by: Kaiser at November 15, 2004 03:45 PM

Celebrate good surf...

Posted by: Kaiser at November 15, 2004 03:47 PM

Celebrate...Well, celebrate whatever you want with this one...

Posted by: Kaiser at November 15, 2004 03:48 PM

AS - sick photo as usual!

How would you feel about using a few of your pics in the next BASEmag... coming out soon?

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 03:59 PM

E's
please don't use your mag to expose/ exploit OB any more than it already has been. Hopefully this is not a venture all about how great OB is & why it's great to be a surfer here. All of us up here knows that already.

Sick/ unspecified pics for the extended "local" crew is one thing.

Another is a mag distibuted to every surfshop in the state outside of the immediate area.

Not that other mags haven't done that already- I would just hope that you could keep the stoke up- not at the expense of the beach

Mahalo!

Posted by: concerned loc at November 15, 2004 04:21 PM

thanks for the concern concerned loc..

Only a few people see these BASEmags, compared to the thousands that see surfline/blakestah/e's/etc.

BASEmag is small potatoes.. just for fun.. used mostly to SPREAD the stoke for surfers who are already surfing.

no spot naming will occur other than "California, West Coast, Earth, etc."

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 04:30 PM

Posted by: yum at November 15, 2004 04:30 PM

waves are my god. stoked that everyone scored everywhere.

loved the sally rant over the weekend. while the delivery could be better, truth can be found in those words....

So, in the grocery store last night. i overheard some "surfer" in a nor cal hoodie bragging about how he had charged that big wave reef in hmb at dawn. i always cast harsh judgement on these type ripper bras, trying to impress people and get noticed....at the grocery store. but sure enough, he walks to his SUV, there is the KEEP TAHOE BLUE sticker on the bumper..... at least at the grocery store he didn't leave empty handed.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at November 15, 2004 04:41 PM

SCHWACKK!

Posted by: e at November 15, 2004 05:08 PM

surfed the con on the last swell. Only me and my buddy out. Good sets! Enviable shape! Viva con!

Posted by: at November 15, 2004 05:40 PM

Can we please keep the SUV call outs to a minimum? I am sensitive.....

Thanks.

HA! Really though, every generalization, including Sally's, focuses around some dirtbagdotcommiepunkassSUVdrivingscumbag. I am just curious what kind of car everyone else drives?

Oh, and you guys should see how my mullet is growing out right now! Lots of time in the water and my mullet is growing like a weed....

3to5, when we gonna see ya up north?

Posted by: Kaiser at November 15, 2004 05:42 PM

thats funny about the wetsuit at waddell, i saw them there on the rocks around 9:30, right as the wind came up, thought about grabbing them, but then figured the kooks who left them would come back for them......sorry i didn't grab them....i'm sure you guys would be stoked to get them back

Posted by: undisclosed at November 15, 2004 06:40 PM

Honda Accord, when I can borrow it. Otherwise, whoever I'm carpooling with -- pickup, convertible, or honda hatchback usually.

Posted by: Nate at November 15, 2004 07:50 PM

used subaru outback, recently acquired.

anyone in the market for a slightly run-down corolla for $2k? bluebook says $2.7k.

Posted by: g at November 15, 2004 07:59 PM

Hey e,
I did the killer thrilla in manila a couple of years ago. That wave dredges hard. Just out of curiosity did the Mickey Mouse wave break while you were down there. I paddled out there in 98 with a couple of local bodyboard shapers and have to say it was large and way too dredgy/big for me (sorry guys no rip it up brah I charge everything). Just watched and was amazed Cali has waves like that.

Posted by: sponger at November 15, 2004 08:39 PM

g - email me - my camry just got stolen..... blakestah AT blakestah DOT com

Posted by: blakestah at November 15, 2004 08:45 PM

Friend #1---->Next time you go away for a short visit somewhere else, make sure you leave good waves behind like I always seem to.

Small as hell down here, though you wouldn't know it from the crowds and the attitude at this place I went to by some powerplant at Carlsbad this AM.

Posted by: Mr Doof at November 15, 2004 08:49 PM

internet poker - free poker online, wsop | poker tips - partypoker, texas hold'em | poker tips - party poker, partypoker | poker games - internet poker, empire poker | empire poker - partypoker, texas hold'em | texas holdem - party poker, poker games | world series of poker - world poker tour, WPT | poker supplies - party poker, poker supplies | poker supplies - online poker rooms, paradise poker | world series of poker - poker games, texas hold'em poker | WPT - world poker tour, wsop

Posted by: texas holdem poker at January 20, 2005 08:13 PM
Post a comment

Thanks for signing in, . Now you can comment. (sign out)

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)


Remember me?