E's Surf Report

Its too cold here. I am moving.

Ok, actually, I am not moving but it is really cold here. Freakin come back from the islands and I can't stand sitting in the cold water. 2 sessions back and my body is not embracing the water temp here.

Oh yeah, how were the waves here on Turkey Day? Epic I bet.....

Hope everyone scored some good grooves with the family, some tasty waves and plenty of grub!

kaiser - any north shore stories? pro sightings? bikini sightings?

turkey day was onshore but rideable something like head high anything but epic

this morning was uber-clean shoulder to head high racy fun fun fun cold cold cold

Better waves on the day after Thanksgiving than on the day.

This morning, for me, it was all about finding the correct double up on the inside, or getting the lucky predawn, moonlight peak that turned on when it hit the inner bar.

Think SS Sharkbait was surfing between Friend #1 and myself, till he paddled a bit south to where I was.

doof - the 'bait is actually a blond-haired lassie.

word niceness! Back from Italy with a new and much needed perspective on my perception of life. Flew into Rome, trained it down to Naples, (saw some waist high waves got pics and I'll post later) then bussed it to the Amalfi coast and stayed in Atrani. Unbelievably beautiful. Then went to Pompei for the day, stayed in Florence for about 4 days, then did the Rome thing for 1 day and 1 night. Ate an awesome dinner across from the coliseum at night. A local musician was rockin out on the guitar, some cover songs, some of his own. Anyway amazing trip, it's never enough time. I'm already anxious for my next journey. Hope everyone had a stellar holiday, and has an awesome day today.

sounds dope E! joisey. havent been missing much here on the west coast..getting out of the water last night i thought i might have to amputate my hand..

The 'he' in Doof's comment was in reference to me.

Anyone know the happy water photographer taking pictures on Friday (11/26) at el Terribal?

Atrani Village, where we stayed for 3 days

more pics to come!

Ian, that pic is sweet. Imagine a nice point break peeling around those rocks. I could do that forever. To make a living, I would bake bread for sure.

Pro-Ho, plenty of stories to come! I might have to wait for the photo evidence from my traveling amigo, CK. He got some goods via the camera lens. All in all, I have to say it may have been one of my best trips to Hawaii minus my wedding there last year. Best surf trip for sure. We got some good waves on both Oahu and Kauai.

More to come later.....

killer photo Ian. sounds like Italy charged you up! nice.

Welcome home e! Hope all had a Happy Thanksgiving.
Friday was definitely the better day for Ocean Beach. I would've prefered having the smaller board, but even on the log it was tons of racy fun. I actually got narreled on a couple!
We'll be sneaking out of the country for Christmas, so expect killer surf hereabouts for the Holidays.

Yesterday sundown was cleaner than I'd expected given the winds at the buoy; north beach: hollow nuggets breaking treacherously shallow--touchy take-offs into speedy, almost barrelling waves . . . or into merciless poundings. I got more of the latter, but enough of the former to make it worthwhile. Cold, though!

Anyone have one of those vest-hood combinations? Ice-cream headache and fear of surfer's ear got me considering it. O'neill calls it thermal layering, sells it for $60. Seems like a cheaper than a new wetsuite, more effective than a beanie, although I fear I'm just giving the water a path to run down my neck. Also, I don't want to look like a big sissy.

Andrew - I scored an O'Neill thermal rash guard, hoodie combo a few years back.. it is great. No issues with the H20 down the back, the thermal rashguard adds another millimeter or so when needed, don't have to wear a hood when it's warm..
mine's not a vest, though..

Andrew, my friend has a vest/hoodie combo. Says he's very happy with it, and seems like he likes it because he quit bitching about how cold the water is when we're out.

Andrew, you should also look into the webbed gloves, they keep your hands toasty plus give you a little extra boost on the paddle. I got a pair last spring and they're great.

I like my O'Neill thermal full-sleeve rashguard. I was still cold after a couple hours yesterday afternoon, though. Probably should've worn gloves, and an electric vest . . . and one of those boards with motors in 'em might have helped warm me up, right, Chas?

webbed gloves ... bwaaahahahahahahaaa!

check out the surfline pipline camera. you won't be disappointed.

Gloves? Hmmmmmm. Do they package those with the Realm boards at Costco?

I heard guys in Hawaii used to wear them back in the 80's until they weren't cool.

Things are looking up for me. I've been getting some surf in with a 3/2 (brrr) and a guy who surfs just got hired at my company so now I have someone to carpool for DP again. The 4/3 will be back from Oneill soon. I finally got my bike hotwired after someone tried to steal it (messing up the ignition). I rode it to the shop today and they're fixing it. Welcome back E.

Ian, you're stoked! Teleportation time.

Andrew, I constantly use a longsleeved hooded rash guard, as long as the wetsuit or hood neck is snug there's no leak. Way warmer. However, I am a girl and therefore a big sissy, so keep this in mind if you purchase one. Don't tarnish your image!

Fuuuuuun this mini morning...but fark! Clapped gloved hands together for circulation. Hullo to all in the water, early am here and east coast too.

i used to wear a hooded rashie but got continuously flushed down my neck. When i wear it now i wear it over my wetsuit and the water that enters through the hood doesn't get into the neck of the wetty as much.

and a get a heated mouthpiece, warms ya right up out there.

Met the Korewin down in my parts, was fun surfing shitty small closeouts with him. We'll have to do it up again up north next time.

Niceness!

jeff clark interview

welcome back all!

wow. jeff clarks interview is weird. dude loves his mavs.
though as much as i want to believe it, i dont think HMB is the "the" premire big wave paddle venue. i have a sneaking feeling that there is better things out there, and that there is some humble soul surfing it all alone.

I think that is the best pic i have ever seen of Mav's. Beautiful.

is your boy Christian goin' to be in it this year?

JC is the ultimate local exploiter

Mavs surfboards
Mavs Cafe
Mavs surfgear
Mavs stickers....

I always laugh when I see the Mavs sticker on the Outback pulling out of LM... almost as lame as the Norcal stickers

His life is Mavs- but I guess he earned it surfing out there for years alone- hardcore

Unlike some exploiters on this board whom haven't exactly earned any rights- but sure feel entitled to it- just caused they moved out here in 2000

i've noticed a lot of resentment for the year 2000.

who on this board is exploiting? what are they getting?

You don't even know charging! I was charging Mavs before the chargers had even charged chargable waves at charging locations for chargers and their charging friends, who spent most of the time charging charge surfboards on their chargable charge cards. Any way look at it, I charge when there is charging to be done by a charging charger with charging charge abilities. Oh yeah, I was charging on a 5'10 chargable charge fish. CHARGE!!!!!

hmmmm...what in hell are you doing at LM if you are such a down low guy?

yeah...and i saw mav's charging charger do it.

He didn't even wear a wetsuit!

my vote is cast... the "charging charger" is the best addition to this board.

CHARGE.

holy crap that charging bit, im dying. the year 2000 is definately stupid also, the nerve of that year..

wow...i guess target carries everything...the stockholders must really be pushing for profits...

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/601-3650749-5758508?asin=0823916839

from mavsurfer.com

wow, a cross stepping....the cross dress cross step. hope it stopped there and he didn't drop knees....

that's funny j. brings a whole new meaning to the drop knee turn. hmmmmmm what does "island style pullout" really mean anyway?

or for that matter "head dip".....

E---> You are correct about the gender of SS Sharkbait.

I left off the 's' before the 'he' in my previous statement. A classic typo. My apologies to all those who care.

PS
I have met her before, when I gave her the copies of the New Yorker article about surfing Ocean Beach.

drop knee in-and-outs are even better

Another correction:

Ahh, I just reread what I originally wrote this morning.

There was no typo.

I was talking about Friend #1. It was HE who paddled south of SS Sharkbait, leaving her to the north.

So, there was no typo, just incredibly awkward sentence structure.

I am not sure which is worse.

People on this board exploit this coast and it's beaches

to
1) stoke their ego
2) tell their imaginary internet friends
3) sell RFS ???
4) niceness the mag?

I think anyone on this coast drives by LM every now and then- it's unavoidable

hey, niceness! as Kaiser alluded i pulled the last-minute ticket deal and joined him in the islands. first time on the North Shore for this kid during the winter season since i was a grom-kook on a sponge and i gotta say that the breaks, the lore, the surfers, and the swell made it a veritable surfer's holy land. i was in awe.

we lucked out with swell and weather and scored a number of risiculous seshies with surprisingly light and friendly line-ups (imho, California could learn something about etiquette and niceness from the islands). good times.

hopefully, some of the pics i took worked out. if so, i'll post some 'em later this week.

do i "exploit" the land if i grow crops to eat?

do i "exploit" New York City if i work for the New York Times?

do i "exploit" a mountain if i paint a picture of it and sell it to feed myself?

Do i "exploit" my older sister if i sell her soiled panties to strangers on ebay?

No.

She was a ho anyway so it doesn't matter.

If you sell your younger sisters panties, well, that's some really fucked up shit.

Shark sighting, Ocean Beach: On November 28, 2004, Aaron Lauer was surfing between Kirkham and Lawton. At 5:00 PM he had been in the water about 45 minutes and was 70 – 100 yards from shore. It was sunny with a light offshore wind. There was about 4 feet of visibility in water 10 – 15 feet deep with a sandy bottom and a 7 foot swell. Lauer observed a pinniped heading north about 40 feet from his location 30 seconds or so before he saw the shark. He recalled: "I was sitting on my board, farther out than the other surfers, waiting for a big set. I had been sitting for maybe 10 minutes. The shark’s dorsal fin appeared approximately 5' away from me. It was moving slowly, heading north. I had a perfect profile view against the horizon/sky. I couldn't determine the length of the shark as the visibility was limited and there was a glare over the water due to the evening light on the horizon as I was facing the sunset. I estimate the fin to be 18 – 24 inches in height. The notches on the trailing edge of the fin were somewhat uniform. They didn't look like bite marks, but were similar to most photos you see of great white dorsal fins. The skin also appeared a bit rough, rather than smooth. I observed the fin for a few seconds before I bolted to shore. It was a minus tide, but I was well beyond where the waves were consistently breaking." White sharks are known to frequent this area. Caution should be exercised when utilizing this location for your ocean water activities. Please report any sightings or encounters to the Shark Research Committee

You're all transplants when the landlord comes by.

damn i thought i felt a feeling last night..sheesh

HAHAHA....
ITS SO FUNNY THAT THE PEOPLE WHO BITCH ABOUT THIS SITE AND PEOPLE WHO POST ON IT, ARE ACTUALLY THEMSELVES READING AND POSTING ON IT. jerks.

shit.. i was out there yesterday at that time.
D'oh.

ck and kaiser - sounds like a sick trip! I'm psyched to hear more about it.

ebay banned soiled undergarments a few years back. try ebanned.net.

Hey HB,

I too think that is the best pic of mavericks! Actually the best pic is about a split second after that and taken from a little more to the right (no boat in view).
I first saw it on Frank Q's sight (taken by him, of course) as his lead in shot. I was able to buy a 12"X18" print from him, which I have hanging in my office.
I like it because it makes the place look so mellow at first glance. Only a couple guys out, super glassy and the guys on the shoulder look so casual. It's very deceptive, and of course that is a small day. Early December 1999.

Oops. actually, I think that pic is Dec. 1998.

Geee look at mee, can e see or is e a she? e? Dude I had some really good pizza the other day, then I had a burrito and then I caught some really rad waves. you guys should all be jealous, or at least envious, because I can surf everyday, then have ample time at work to boast about it. Look at mee I remember my first wave, just I got over it.

Those 3 guys surfing Linda mar give a new meaning to the word "trannys". oooh!

Jersey HAS the pizza. It boggles my mind why no one outside NY, NJ and (parts of) PA can make pizza. Don't even start blathering at me about your North Beach, your Gaspare's, your Zach's, or any of your other hippified motherfucking bullshit. It's good food. But it AIN'T PIZZA.
Fuggedaboudit.

best pizza in the city: Arinell - 16th/Valencia

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