E's Surf Report

Those waves have some board splitting lips. Thanks for the pics e makes the office hours drag soooo slow.

had a fun morn, spoke with Kaiser Sose, kdalle, and friend #1. The ratio of paddling to waves was a little high, but the juice was there.

oh my god. those pictures are fucked. Imagine that first one crackin you on the head. yaaay Im getting my new suit this week. maybe. Finally no more hole in the crotch, no broken velcro on my hood. double sweet.

east coast photos ...musta been shot in the afternoon ...look at the light on those lips....awwwwgh

Here is some East Coast Video (it's long, I only watched the Oct 24 one and it was like 10 mins)

But if you are a slacker, your stoked.

Didn't get my ten last eve but did see some beautiful waves when the sets came. But then again, I'll give 10 bucks to anyone who did get ten last night.

e you posted at 959, why not 10?

fuck...here is the video link

http://www.wildcatrecordsny.com/pages/1/index.htm

(scroll down to videos)

Yo SPONGER or BBR, do you guys know who that Japanese guy was surfing the Lane on the BOOG in Bruce's pic from yesterday. If you did not see it go back and check it - worth a quick peek! Just curious - seems to be a real standout.

Toughest paddle back out from a wave ever today. Couldnt believe so many were passing this morining. Gonna go at it again in the morning. Should be good for a few more hours.

I have no idea who that is. Stand up sponging is hard, hard hard, in fact I tore my Left ACL on a 3ft wave on a stand up sponge bottom turn. Never attempted since then.

This morning I only got 2 or 3 good waves. I'm not counting my first which was from too far back on a wiiiiiide peak. Just a drop, turn and then not even a chance to try to pull in.

And I am not counting the Airdrop left near the end that I actually landed but my downward momentum caused me to turn right into the flats so I just jumped off instead of riding mush further inside. Man, I got held down deep on that one and the one behind it.

Mid session, Doof tells me to just go for the next one that comes, "there's so many people making it out now, you won't get stuck inside."
"Famous last words," I tell him. And less than 10 minutes later a big set rolls through, I hear shouts of "NO!" from several voices, and the pack of 10 is now just me and a couple other guys.

At least my last ride was a good right that I managed to set up on the inside section for a nice race along the wall.

My neck hurts.

The blonde curly head sponger threw mad spray this morning....made some of us look like minuets(SP)Kooks

stand up sponging made easy

visit w/ the physical medicine doc this AM, looks like we're positive on the nerve damage, MRI next week to determine whether it's a result of jammed 5th/6th vertebrae in my neck or if the shoulder and neck are two independent issues. stoked, never had an MRI. he did clear me for physical activity as long as it doesn't make the shoulder and neck throb.
magic 8-ball, will there be cold azz h20 session in my future?
magic 8 ball: my sources say yes

Morning surf facts:
1) 10 ft at 14 seconds to the north or me, 8 ft at 15 seconds to the south of me.
2) Suiting up I see a guy make a late drop and then get steamrolled.
3) I figure 12 foot faces on the sets, plus or minus a little.
4) As I enter the water, I see that guy get out wiht a friend of his. I don't know if his friend made it out.
5) Look at my watch, then go in the water. 20 minutes later I am outside.
6) To the north, one other guy is in the final stage of getting out, if he dodges the next set....he does.
7) I catch a peaky left that sucks out and throws hard as it closes out, right as I am carving off the bottom.
8) Friend #1 makes it out.
9) I catch a very nice right, just after some guy on an 8'0" gets the first wave of the set.
10) I am amazed to paddle back out without any trouble.
11) After a bit of a wait, I scramble into another left that I manage to stay in the pocket for quite a way.
12) I see Friend #1 go for a wave that closes out and take a beating.
13) Friend #1 and I chat about the waves and I mention that "If you only go on the big ones and the 3rd or 4th wave of the set, or so, you won't get trapped inside." He laughs at my claim, as do I, knowing I just cursed myself.
14) Make a late drop, pull off the bottom turn (barely), but then can't readjust my feet get to the right spot on the board for the highspeed line and end up spazzing out under the curl and into the wave face. Amazed I don't get punished for that and am soon back out.
15) Friend #1 takes a big left and is gone for 5 minutes.
16) A guy on a needle nosed gun, take a spill and get shunted inside mercilessly. I would have thought that board would not have dragged him so much, but it did...too short of a leash?
17) Get an amazing ride, complete with me trying for the standup, casual backside barrel. I miss the barrel due to a little too much casualness but kick out clean and see a monster set bearing down on me.
18) 15 minutes later, I am back outside.
19) Paddle north against the current for 10 minutes or so, see Friend #1 take in the 'utility' right. Clearly overhead and a half for him.
20) I score a bouncy left, about the same size as Friend #1, and think, "that is not a terrible way to end my morning'.

Blakestah - thanks for the input on wave theory yesterday. To resurrect the discussion, you stated "17 second period waves travel through the ocean at 26.52 nautical miles per hour. That is 30.5 miles per hour. 44.73 feet per second. Or 760 feet in 17 seconds."

So, I'm still confused. Is the 760 feet the speed of the wave or the distance between waves? I read your first post to mean that 760 was the distance from peak to peak.

I did check out your explanation on your website. Most of what I saw referred to the wave speed for arrival time calculation, not the distance from peak to peak.

Again, I'm thinking about the theoretical possibility of 100Ft @ 17 secs. If the distance between waves is only 760 ft, those are going to be some steep bastards! Seems like at some ratio of swell height to length, they would actually break onto each other.

Cherrio, charging chargers who think they can charge like the charging chargness of chargability that is me, the Charging Charger of Charge. Fucking charged yesterday on some charging chargables...soooo chargable if you can charge like a charging chargible. Mid day charge was charging at about 2'' over my charging knees, but I was still charging like a good charging charger should. Doubt any chargers like you made it out past the charging white water...if you did, you likely charged a charging fecal mess into your charging wetter...it was that chargable out there!!!!! I kept clean 'cause I was charging in a charging banana hammock that I bought when I was charging the Speedo outlets last friday. Guess what? I charged it to my charge card! CHARGE!!!!!

the bodyboarder's name is Sammy Garcia. I'm pretty sure he was originally from the Phillipines. His family has been in the U.S. since he was (I think) 7. He's an all around talent on a bodyboard, but I'd say he's best at dropknee.

his name is sammy garcia and he's filipino.

hi t707m where the fuck were you this morning

North end of OB last night (chuck lantz)

another (chuck lantz) just as glassy as this and much larger when the rare set came through were i was

Nice NY video, Tom. Thanks. I'm not a very good surfer but it seemed like many people in it had the same problem -- dropping in with a lot of weight on the tail and flailing their arms. Am I right that they should have put more weight on the front front and crouch more? I've never seen myself surf but it feels like I'm doing that when I get a good drop. Also, I think angling more on the drop for some of them would be much better instead of dropping straight all the time.

Great report, Mr. Doof! Sounds fun and challenging.

Too bad I couldn't surf today, or of course I'd be out there charging the chargeable-by-chargers waves with the other charging chargers who charge.

Okay, I've learned that a certain amplitude swell at long-period is more bad-ass than the same amplitude at shorter period. So I've been paying attention to the following graph at the SF buoy:

But I'm not exactly sure how to read it. Is it right that the total area under that curve is basically the total energy in the water? If so, and if there's a peak in the graph at long period, that means that there's a bunch of energy in long-period waves (just how much being more a question of the area under the peak than just its height). Right? But that doesn't quite tell you how big the waves are, because they might be sparse, with lots of the energy concentrated in few waves, or they might be evenly sized and smaller, with the energy spread out (apparently yesterday afternoon and this morning it was large and relatively sparse). Right? If so, is there some way to tell more about the waves from the buoy data? Or is this where knowing stuff about the source and path of the swell is crucial?

Sorry for the long question - - feel free to ignore me!

Yeah, you're correct. Most energy there is between 15 and 10 seconds, with some minor warble in the 9-6 second range. The power axis is in square meter seconds (m^2/hz). If you know math, this is an FFT which gives the basic frequency components of a complex wave. You know that ocean waves are not just a simple sine wave but instead made up of a series of pulses and at different frequencies. So this just is a way of separating it back into its fundamental frequencies.

sounds like a cool sesh for doof/friend #1/'Stah/Kaiser! Niiice! I debated joining you heads but decided to surf the local instead. sounds like it was a bit larger down near you guys. Still some size up near me.. a bit over headhigh. powerful. fun!

sunset photos from sarge

Japan represent!

A wee little wall

inside Sunset pit

style points

A more visual way to see this is to look at the graph on the lower left corner of CDIP:

http://cdip.ucsd.edu/models/sf.gif

This gives wave height, frequency, and direction all in one graph. The color is the height, the location around the circle is the direction the energy is coming from, and the closer it is to the center, the longer the period.

It currently shows that the main energy @15 seconds is coming from the NW, with the residual 12 sec energy coming from more NNW and the minor 10 sec and below energy from the WNW.

those east coast waves look nuts..surfing is great..

Hey "Not a Physicist" -

Blakestah said that the waves travelled 760 feet in 17 seconds - it is not the distance between the waves.
I think that he confused people - obviously 17 seconds is the average time period between the waves and this is a constant. When the waves get into shallower water, they slow down and "stack up" but the period (17 seconds) will stay the same.
Blakestah commented that 17 seconds breaks in deeper water - not necessarily true - the depth of water that the wave will break in, is proportional to the height of the wave and obviously period affects height - higher period - higher wave - breaks in deeper water.
When the water depth becomes less than 1.3 times the height of the wave, the wave will break.

sleeping. Kinda bummed, but Nick and i are outta here in half an hour.

Yeah, we got two pulses right now, a 14-17 second period 305, and a 10-12 second period 320.

760 feet peak to peak between waves of a 17 second period set. Yes, 100 ft at 17 seconds would be quite impressive. "100 ft Wednesday" had the HMB buoy at 26 ft 20 or 25 seconds.

The double swell is quite a muck raker. I paddled over to kdalle this morning, he said some less experienced guy went for a wave and took it too far in and got stuck. Later I heard the other side of the story from Kaiser.

In the open ocean, 760 ft separates adjacent peaks in a 17 second period wavelet.

The water depth at which shoaling will begin is roughly half the deep water wavelength. The shoaling causes the wave to build up in height, develop a more concave front (and convex back), and slow down. This relates to wave refraction and wave speed slowing, but doesn't mean the wave starts to break there.

The wave breaks when the water depth is close to the wave height (1.3 is reasonably close, it depends on lotsa factors of the bottom contour). I have seen 4 ft 20 second waves have greater than 15 foot faces because they shoal up so much in height.

Hey BBR, et. al.- If you know how to get in touch with Sammy have him email me and I'll snail mail him a CD. The full-res shots are quite a bit better.

Looked outside this morning, decided I want to live a little longer, good decision.

The Curse is so true. 1/2 way through a session last week, neighbor and I both get stuck a bit inside, make it back out, what seems to be far enough out. He exclaims,
" Phew, I'm going to rest for a couple of minutes. " RIGHT THEN the biggest wave of the day farking leaps out of nowhere [ prolly head high but in retrospect 20 ft ] Arms burning, paddling like maniacs, I barely scratch over but my neighbor just to my left gets picked off and disappears. I couldn't help it and started laughing. Then the 2nd wave appears and when it becomes clear no effort will help me evade this doom I can't stop laughing. Got nailed. The two biggest waves of the session, of course. My neighbor is now banned from saying anything, ever, in the lineup.

Kdalle, nice red strip, err stringer on your board!

I guess I was the "less experienced" one that Blakestah speaks off. Honestly, it was nice to have some brief company out there this a.m. I like the board as well. Pretty long eh?

Sorry I had to split, I needed a wave. And yes, I rode my 1 and only wave a little to far this morning but then again I would have sat out there for another hour and got my wave count to 2 if I was lucky. Seemed pretty "cement-ish" to me out there. Tough to paddle anywhere except on the outside.

Signing Off,

Kaiser
- AKA "Less Experienced Surfer"
- AKA "Thanksgiving Traveler"
- AKA "Exploiter of the Bikini"

AKA "Captain Strap On"

J, since you tried to steal it from my sister, I told you that you could keep it and be Captain Strap On yourself.

Easy now!

dammit, he's onto me!

what i could use right now

i like beer.

Why, Blakestah, must you advertise future good days ("a banner day")? It's lame enough that you have to hand-feed the non-forecasters to stroke your ego. You might as well Evite everybody to OB. Shut your site down and do everybody a favor.

Blakestah - you seem to know lots about surfing/waves/forecasting etc. Much more than anyone else on this blog. I imagine you rip - you seem to charge on the heaviest days at OB. Have you ever surfed Mavs - if so, what's it like? Have you ever surfed in competitions? Would you consider yourself one of the better surfers at OB? Just curious. Let me know the next time you paddle out into some gnarly mackers - I'd love to just watch you from the beach. I bet you're in the green room so much that your eyes get bloodshot - hehe. If you know what I'm sayin ;-)

"Beeeeeeer .....Doooooonuts!"
H. Simpson

E!!........skate!!!

That pic of Homer looks like me at Krispy Kreme. Why are those donuts so good?

Hey you guys come on, don't be such meanies to me!

Well here's my evite I guess thats what you wanted

Trannys Unite! Come join me

http://www.evite.com/pages/gt/events/viewPub.jsp?eventID=MUFDGBDMIVLWHWABSEGF

Check me out! I'm the best

Oh come now. Blakestah would be much more creative than that effort. You should have given him a chance to do it for real.

Crybaby.

rector palm pads rule
when throwing down bertlemans
on hard ass cement

nice one 3to5

Funny it was super clean down here this morning, so I couldn't figure out what you all where talking about with the tough paddle out. I checked the Monterey and SF buoys, and indeed the windswell didn't hit here until about mid-day. You all got the windswell from the get go this morning.

Nice ass on that kid. I'd like to get me some of that. Yummy.

Oh, I guess I hurt your feelings then, imp-poster.

Do I even need to type it?

Tired: Fake posting homophobia, Internet bashing posts by HTML-aware hypocrites, "take down this site", etc.

IF YOU HATE IT SO MUCH, WHY DID YOU JUST SPEND AN HOUR WRITING CLEVER POSTS AND MAKING AN EVITE?

rectors.

mad rats.

simms 87's.

indy 101's.

fulltracks.

street bones.

g&s sparks.

airbrushed helmets.

andrecht handplants.

grisham varials.

killing joke.

bad religion.

alva.

del mar.

endless summer.

cherry hill.

bye.

a late re-cap of my day.

what a nice swell. big long lines surging
in and breaking top to bottom for the first
time this season. i think i saw kaiser and
kdalle and friend #1 over to my north.

got a few good ones after the slowest paddle
ever through the aerated soup on the inside.

and then got the beat down of the fall
late in the session. caught inside and felt
just like the cover photo of the book of the
same name.

looking forward to a more mellow day tomorrow.

cheers ya'll.

kaiser here's the breakdown of a kk donut:
CHOCOLATE ICED KREME FILLED
Ingredients: Enriched bleached wheat flour (contains bleached wheat flour, niacin, reduced iron,
thiamine mononitrate, riboflavin, folic acid), dextrose, vegetable shortening (partially hydrogenated
soybean and/or cottonseed oil), water, sugar, soy flour, egg yolks, vital wheat gluten, yeast, nonfat milk,
yeast nutrients (calcium sulfate, ammonium sulfate), dough conditioners (calcium dioxide, monocalcium
and dicalcium phosphate, diammonium phosphate, sodium stearoyl-2-lactylate, whey, starch, ascorbic
acid, sodium bicarbonate, calcium carbonate), salt, mono- and diglycerides, ethoxylated mono-and
diglycerides, lecithin, calcium propionate (preservative), cellulose gum, malted barley flour, natural and
artificial flavors, enzymes, sodium caseinate, corn maltodextrin, corn syrup solids and BHT (to help
protect flavor).
Kreme filling contains: Sugar, vegetable shortening (partially hydrogenated soybean and/or cottonseed
oil), water, corn syrup solids, salt, mono & diglycerides, Polysorbate 60, lecithin, and artificial flavor.
Chocolate icing contains: Sugar, water, cocoa, corn syrup solids, corn starch, vegetable shortening
(partially hydrogenated soybean and cottonseed oil), soybean oil, contains two percent or less of: soy
lecithin, salt and artificial flavor.
Bon Appetit!

don't forget

STINKY NASTY SMELLY rectors
my mom would not let them in the
house after 2 months of use....

ahh the good ol' days.

anyone else see that beach break in Alexander? best part of the movie besides naked rosario dawson..

My favorite turn...

Is that really you Kaiser?

Nah, I wish. I do have white board shorts and was just surfing the north shore but the similarities stop there.

Took that off of the ASP site. I think that is Sunset this last week.

That water....I miss that water.....Sooooo warm.....

Well bugger of a paddle out this afternoon. Headed out at Sloat (*troll troll*) checked my watch as I hit the water - 3.15 checked my watch when I made it to the outside 4.00 - maybe I am getting soft, but it was strange conditions - a serious battle to make it past the final line. Nice big sets out there upto 10ft++ tho.

Question - headed to Baja next week on a quick road trip, not a great deal of time...so probably stick to the northern half - any suggestions on breaks to hit or places to stay? Any advice appreciated! Cheers.

Well bugger of a paddle out this afternoon. Headed out at Sloat (*troll troll*) checked my watch as I hit the water - 3.15 checked my watch when I made it to the outside 4.00 - maybe I am getting soft, but it was strange conditions - a serious battle to make it past the final line. Nice big sets out there upto 10ft++ tho.

Question - headed to Baja next week on a quick road trip, not a great deal of time...so probably stick to the northern half - any suggestions on breaks to hit or places to stay? Any advice appreciated! Cheers.

Thanks. I have a cold, did 11 stress hours at work, and now I have to load up the camera gear and shoot the zoo in the morning. If I can still walk.

Fark, I want some big wave photos. Hey Mexi, is the photography addiction even worse than the surfing addiction?

Hi to Dean in Michigan. Thanks for the email. Give us an update on the Great Leake swells.

Play nice. Surf to live.

Cherry Hill!!!!! Those were the days!

Kloo-

Yeah, it's the energy underneath the curve, with the curve based on a 20-minute sample. I think your question is "over the course of 20-minutes, how do we know if it's 9 3ft waves 3 9ft waves at a given frequency?" and the answer is you don't know from that plot. You have to go back to the tabular data, and see Hsig, the average of the highest 1/3 of the waves.

Refer to Part II, chapters 1-5 if you have any more questions.

http://users.coastal.ufl.edu/~sheppard/eoc6430/Coastal_Engineering_Manual.htm

good waves, even with some line-ey lump. Saw a peep get an honest 3+ second carport (one below shack, over da head and in front but no total coverup). Lefts working best.

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