Wild and stormy
Out of the loop this morning. Opted to sleep in. A cursory glance at the ocean showed wild, wind-whipped sea-sickness. However, there is no wind right now and the buoys look promising. (10ft 11sec at the sf buoy). With the 2pm low tide some of you with more flexible work-schedules may be able to finagle a few gliders here or there.
Here’s something written by the J.O.C. for the last issue of Niceness the Mag. Hopefully we’ll hear more from this talented scribe in the next issue of Niceness, due out after New Years. The assignment of this piece was to explore the relationship between music and surfing. Enjoy.
---------
When considering the dual analogies for life of surfing and music, I always thought that as a surfer, my energy would be like that of a jamming guitar. It turns out I was wrong. For surfing, there is the action of the surfer and the movement of the wave. For music, there is the steady rhythm and a freely shaped melody. And surfer is beat and wave is melody. Like I said, I always wanted my surfing to be a beautiful guitar solo, but the wave gets that honor. It is the wave’s shape, like the melody, which controls my emotions. Happy, light soaring, or heavy, thumping darkness. Mellow, or critical? We, surfers, are rhythm. All the moves are in frequency with the speed at which you are traveling. “Curren drops a good beat.” A pattern fit together, to fit a wave or fit a song. Bouncing techno, smash through the beat with your heels, be a raging ripping machine. Or feel the infinity of a single note, no rhythm needed, hold still and balance inside the sustained barrel.
Surfing makes you better at music, and music makes you better at surfing. After all, each is a type of self progression where you learn from the experience, and the experience of each is an interaction with a flow of energy. So one can help the other. Grab a pair of bongo drums, and practice laying down your cutbacks, gauges, and snaps in a rhythmic link. Visualize acoustically. Or grab an electric guitar, hit a long, wailing note, and be the best screaming barrel you can be.
I think Flamenco is the most stylish surfing. Soulful, certainly. Something in that deep song matches the passion of the ocean. And the incredibly paced energetic picking of the classical guitar conjures an image of a never-ending point break on a lush tropical coastline with set after roping set. Dance your feet to the flowing melody, as the wave speeds you along in perfectly morphing form. Garcia Lorca would have been an excellent surfer. Surfers are aesthetic poets.
Most importantly, perhaps we can project these experiences with energy onto the experience of life. Feel the highway rushing underneath your car, Time, and let the road roll up behind you and throw a barrel of the Universe over your head. Carve, sculpt your life, with enthusiasm.
Feel the beauty of floating in your favorite jam of music, “you can feel good about Hood,” and the joy of floating in the sea as groomed peaks flow from the horizon, and bring this Love into your life. Burst with it.
Rejoice. Know the Energy.
J.O.C.
-----
Typical crowds at our favorite spot (photo by Teeple)
Teeple shot of a some brutality
Walker submitted a few cool pics of a big day somewhere north of Point Conception
Puerto Rico...is that BBR?!
Posted by: Tom at December 7, 2004 10:21 AM
Posted by: Tom at December 7, 2004 10:22 AMMurray Redd of Austin, Texas, surfs the Beach Break at Zicatela Beach in Puerto Escondido. Summer of 1980.
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 10:24 AMman, texas has some big waves! they do everything so big
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 10:27 AMeast coast black and white (photos by LBInjsurfer)
Posted by: e at December 7, 2004 10:46 AMSoup Bowls, Barbados -my first surf trip.
Posted by: tom at December 7, 2004 10:53 AMAnybody know whether or not the Mav's contest is a go for Thursday yet???
Posted by: traut at December 7, 2004 10:59 AMSunday at OB---coolist barrel ever: Saw a tube that you could fit a man and a have inside--and cruising right through it was a seagull.
Weirdest moment: duck diving to avoid a big ol' jellyfish coming straight at my head on Saturday.
Posted by: amigoism at December 7, 2004 10:59 AMright or left?
Posted by: AS at December 7, 2004 11:07 AMthe left looks a bit steeper and more lined up..
left for me.
Posted by: e at December 7, 2004 11:12 AMThey haven't invited me to the contest yet, for some reason.
I'm loving these pix! Thanks, Bruce, Tom, E, AS, Seth, . . .!
By the way:
Ocean Beach
Posted by: klooless at December 7, 2004 11:17 AMFoot of Sloat Blvd Station - Open
Foot of Vicente Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Pacheco Ave. Station - No Sampling Data Available
Foot of Lincoln Way Station - Posted
Foot Balboa Ave. Station - Open
Mav's contest Thursday??? I doubt it. The Pipe contest will be starting any day now.
Historically, the Mav's contest is not held in the fall. This may be to avoid media conflict as the entire world surf media is on the North Shore until the Triple Crown ends.
I think wrt conditions, the contest should be on hold for Thursday until we see how the winds will turn out, but I suspect it is not in the cards from the organizers point of view.
Posted by: blakestah at December 7, 2004 11:24 AMWe gotta show Bruce's pic from Mavs again. I posted it last night.
Bruce, this shot is fucking gorgeous!
Posted by: Kaiser at December 7, 2004 11:26 AMbeen busy...last week of the semester on the hilltop...
wanted to get my shouts out to Hb for what seems to
be a MOST excellent session. glad that ya'll got surf
dude....everyone i spoke with down there was jonesin'.
and bruce! i concur with kaiser....is that mach 8 or 9?
that dude is CRUISING!
left for me too AS.
Posted by: korewin at December 7, 2004 11:31 AMA nice left.....
Posted by: tom at December 7, 2004 11:31 AMmexi juice a week ago
![]()
Posted by: mk1201 at December 7, 2004 11:34 AMyeah yeah but where is that bubble butt?
Posted by: cronk at December 7, 2004 11:34 AMBruce - killer shot, amigo! awesome composition.
Tom - diggin' the vintage shots!
Posted by: ck at December 7, 2004 11:34 AMoops
Posted by: mk1201 at December 7, 2004 11:36 AMGreeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaattttttttt. Yet mor pics of OUR beach. Would you post naked pictures of your wife on here? No. So why why why are you showing all these people how good it can get? We wait 6 freaking months long to surf OUR waves and then you ruin it all by posting - everyday continous pics. Unbelievable. You should be shot.
Posted by: Local 415 at December 7, 2004 11:47 AMthanks for hoping violence on me local 415. The photos i posted aren't from where you think, unless you live outside the 415 area code.
Posted by: e at December 7, 2004 11:52 AM
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 11:53 AMLocal 415,
You're talking about a beach that is in plain view (when it's not foggy) of a few hundred thousand people every day. Find a secret spot and then complain about outing it.
Posted by: steve-o at December 7, 2004 11:54 AMoops, I guess not.
Posted by: steve-o at December 7, 2004 11:55 AMUncrowded....
Posted by: tom at December 7, 2004 11:58 AM
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 12:00 PMMav's contest?! Invitees?! The charging charger of chargeness is the only charger who can invite people...and I still charge them a chargable charge fee, but if they charge chargable waves in a charging chargable manner of charge, than they can charge the chargable's "free of charge". Speaking of charging, did any of you guys get photo's of me charging the Potato Patch last night (totally chargable!!!!).
Posted by: Mav's Charging Charger at December 7, 2004 12:03 PMTom what area code was that wave taken at? Looks Familar.
Posted by: sponger707 at December 7, 2004 12:27 PMinteresting story in the Honolulu star bulletin today to go along with the brothers and betty's photo posted by unknown
http://starbulletin.com/2004/12/07/sports/story1.html
I especially like:
Posted by: snake at December 7, 2004 12:28 PMBut Richards and Slater, "those guys are my heroes. I would never put myself next to those guys. Those guys are the ones I look up to. I just put myself as the consistent contest surfer who got on a roll."
Uncrowded wave is in Mexico....this one you all should know.
Posted by: tom at December 7, 2004 12:38 PM
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 12:38 PM
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 12:40 PMAI
Posted by: e at December 7, 2004 12:42 PMYa, but bruces chick is hotter..
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 12:49 PMHere's one for 415. The caption was inspired by Mav's charger:
"Weekend chargers charging charged charging grounds, with more chargers charging up on the beach to charge it."
Posted by: AS at December 7, 2004 12:59 PMihmo AI's lady is way hotter.
Posted by: e at December 7, 2004 01:03 PMsome more Bruce favorites, sweet! sorry if there huge
Posted by: bagel at December 7, 2004 01:04 PMSorry to say, 415, but the world is getting more crowded everyday. Funny thing about OB is that the majority of surfers are clueless....skilled surfers have no problem picking off the good ones. Try surfing 831 for a while and you'll see the difference.
Posted by: AS at December 7, 2004 01:05 PMthanks bagel... Bruce.. that second shot of the heady-lands in the background is legendary!!! siick shot bruce-juice!
Posted by: e at December 7, 2004 01:10 PMhttp://www.surfhumor.com/PS120504Mavs%20102.jpg
you thought OB was heavy?
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 01:11 PMAS, don't have much experience with 831 . 805 can be fun and 808 is da kine.
Posted by: off the lip at December 7, 2004 01:12 PMhttp://www.surfhumor.com/PS120504Mavs%20112.jpg
holy fuck
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 01:14 PMgoddamn, both those Bruce shots are sweet. love the last one with the mtns loooooming large.
took the day off work to play in the fun dimishing swell. damn, two great days. yesterday was amazing, and you're right korewin, everyone has been jonesin' harrrd.
now it's bowls, tunes, chill, and get ready for an afternoon surf. sick days rule!
keep the niceness pictorial comin', i'll shut up now.
Posted by: Hb at December 7, 2004 01:17 PMoff the lip, 831 has great waves but everyone is a ripper- hard to get waves. Lived there for 15+ years.
Posted by: AS at December 7, 2004 01:18 PMoh and i will take AI's three left fingers please!!!
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 01:19 PMor the 310 or 760 for that matter
is the guy with the orange CI out at mavericks that day still alive? looks like that guy was in some effed up positions that day..
http://www.surfhumor.com/PS120504Mavs%20272.jpg
another classic..
Posted by: bagel at December 7, 2004 01:23 PMThanks for the nice words on the photos. But I really need to get on a boat next time it fires. I'm on the email notification for the Queen of Hearts, but if anyone knows of a trawler out of HMB who wouldn't mind making a few quick bucks please hook us up.
I dont want to be a blog hog, but the shots from Mav's are here.
The shots from Friday/Saturday at E's playground are here.
Posted by: Bruce at December 7, 2004 01:27 PMai's chick is pretty... but i'd rather take bruce's floozy to the sack
Posted by: rbb at December 7, 2004 01:30 PM
Posted by: Mexi at December 7, 2004 01:50 PMI'm feeling left out ;-{
Don't worry Mexi-
Posted by: photog at December 7, 2004 02:13 PMYour pics are stellar as always
Still can't beat slide film
(although Bruce and the digital crew has been making steady improvements)
nice ones mexi i like the 3 views of the same sandbar..and the rick w barrel
Posted by: bagel at December 7, 2004 02:16 PMBruce, you want to be on the Queen early Thursday afternoon - and through the 2:45 time frame. Cliff shots will be trashed by then from the glare.
Posted by: blakestah at December 7, 2004 02:19 PMwhaddup with bruce's links ...plug for willie gates?
Posted by: snake at December 7, 2004 02:19 PMBruce link one
Posted by: blakestah at December 7, 2004 02:33 PMBruce link 2
Bruce - you gotta go out on the Queen. I so want to see close up pics of Mavs Charging Charger dropping into H20 bombs.
Posted by: traut at December 7, 2004 02:33 PMDamn, one look a Mexi's photos and you can tell who the pros are. You should also check out Quirarte's water shots at mavsurfer.com
Snakeshot: Duh! Back to HTML school for me. Go to www.surfhumor.com and you'll see links on the main page. Understand, this is just a hobby. I've calculated that with the advertising revenue I'll pay off the camera in the year 2040. Beats yard work, though.
Posted by: Bruce at December 7, 2004 02:38 PMany of you niceness folks want some tea??
Posted by: j at December 7, 2004 02:48 PMT and A that is!
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 02:50 PMI got the A
Posted by: Kaiser at December 7, 2004 02:55 PMjoc and e,
groovy words on the music and surf confluence. i've always thought music and waves as natural energy sources that we humans tap into and harness for pleasure. the music and surf has always been here. the moods, tones, shape of a wave or composition is an environment we join. your personal energy and the conditions integrate creating expression. crank the gain to 10, crank off the bottom. bridge to crescendo, roundhouse cutty to cheater five......yea, surfing, jamming, longboard or short, jazz or metal, the interconneced beauty of it all....quiver of boards, quiver of instruments. free expression. peace.
crescendo is one sexy surfy word.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at December 7, 2004 02:55 PMCheck it! Its called "the wave" bur Reef style....
Posted by: Kaiser at December 7, 2004 02:56 PMI just want to give a BIG FUCK YOU to all the longboarders that were hogging all of the waves last Friday evening in the middle of the beach. You disgust me with your greed and lack of respect for other surfers. You don't paddle around others just because you can. And it's not just the longboarders that are guilty it's the guttless shitbags who ride 9 foot guns on overhead days!! My bestfriend from Santa Cruz surfed with me that day and I have to say I was a bit embarrased of the complete lack of respect out there. Something has to be done. More people have to speak up about this because it's getting out of hand. Peace.
Posted by: Todd at December 7, 2004 03:01 PMnice one 3to5.. i think that's where J.O.C. was going with his words too..
crescendope!
Posted by: e at December 7, 2004 03:05 PMA big F U to you todd for bringing your friend from Santa Cruz out to my beach and crowding it up
Posted by: longboarder at December 7, 2004 03:13 PMKAISER!
tioga ll sighting on 46th between anza and cabrillo
BIG FUCKING bell on top of the house too!
Posted by: korewin at December 7, 2004 03:15 PManybody else notice that Andy Irons has a cup of coffee there in front of him? HOT!!
i would give both those chicks some chin omelettes.
Posted by: juanito at December 7, 2004 03:16 PMHey Longboarder, I said I surfed the middle of the beach not LINDA MAR, you wanker.
Posted by: Todd at December 7, 2004 03:17 PMTodd- keep your santa cruz friends away from OB. if you are gonna surf out here, learn how to paddle so that you are in position. quit whining. you sound like a democrat.
Posted by: Aipa at December 7, 2004 03:19 PMAre you kidding? You think surfers from SC aren't used to getting yelled at, burned, and disrespected on a daily basis? Trust me, it's comparatively empty and uncrowded up here.
Posted by: AS at December 7, 2004 03:27 PMI'm an asshole.......but it ain't got shit to do with the board I chose to drag out that day.
Posted by: tom at December 7, 2004 03:33 PMyeah right, cup of coffee
Posted by: snake at December 7, 2004 03:37 PMnever underestimate the training discipline necessary to stay on top of the world ...let the girls have a cocktail...but you gotta keep your wits about you....cause parko is gonna grab your wave if you don't
Hey AS, I'm just saying that it's not right. It's poor surfing ettiquette. When longboarders sit outside and paddle from peak to peak and pick off set waves before other guys on the inside who have been waiting respectively, well that's wrong. (anywhere) Although, in SC there are people who regulate and here S.F. we have alot of people just don't know or they just don't care. I 'm not saying all L.B. suck just the ones who say stop whining, paddle harder, etc. Deep down they know it's wrong but they do anyway because no calls them on it.
Posted by: Todd at December 7, 2004 03:43 PMoxymoron: republican surfer
Posted by: rza at December 7, 2004 03:44 PMHey todd- Bring in on- whose gutless? - Did you say anything then... Or just whine about it on the anonymous board and ask other people to do something about it
Stay away and don't bring your friends
Posted by: Longboarder at December 7, 2004 03:46 PMill out paddle any old longboarder
Posted by: shortboarder at December 7, 2004 03:49 PMremember how lucky we are to surf. Think about that kid with no legs. Think about kid from Tanzania who's parents dies of AIDS and his uncle beats him. They're not surfing. They're not complaining about getting 6 waves instead of 8.
we're all lucky bastards.
Posted by: e at December 7, 2004 03:55 PM
Posted by: Kaiser at December 7, 2004 03:56 PMhey longboarder, could repeat your question? I don't understand your last comment.
Posted by: Todd at December 7, 2004 03:58 PMSounds like we need to revisit the ettiquette project someone wrote about a couple weeks ago...
1. Don't ride a Longboard in the middle of the Beach.
2. Don't ride a shortboard in the middle of the Beach.
Seriously, though:
1. On a long period swell, longer boards have a distinct advantage. Getting out at OB is tough, lulls make it easier. So... on a clean long period swell with lulls, don't expect anyone to give you waves just because you sat patiently on the inside on your shorter board.
2. On a more consistent day, short boards that can duckdive have a distinct advantage. So...on a shorter period swell, don't expect anyone to let you paddle from the back over a ledge, just because you have been sitting patiently on your log. That is unless they have the smarts to know you will get stuck inside and be gone.
Or more sucinctly, ride the right board for the conditions and your abilities.
Oh, and don't do it in the middle, please.
Posted by: friend #1 at December 7, 2004 04:07 PM
Posted by: Karmic Perspective at December 7, 2004 04:09 PMhttp://www.cnn.com/2004/US/12/07/lottery.miracle.ap/index.html
Wait doesn't everyone on this board ride
Fishes
Bonzers
Weird RFS boards
All extremely ill equipped for general winter OB conditions
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 04:12 PMI ride whatever I want.
Posted by: Kaiser at December 7, 2004 04:23 PMI post because I love...
And yes, the "10" does apply
Posted by: Kaiser at December 7, 2004 04:23 PMVibe Meter: Getting better.....
Posted by: Kaiser at December 7, 2004 04:24 PMkaiser - you rule!
Posted by: butt lover at December 7, 2004 04:49 PMa 8'6" bonzer or a 7'7" bonzer is
about as prime for winter conditions
here as it gets. well unless you LIKE to go slow.
it ain't the fins or the configuration.
it is the length and the volume.
Posted by: korewin at December 7, 2004 04:55 PMi agree with friend #1 COMPLETELY
ride what is right for yer skills and the
surf.
this guy will run the fuck over your faux pro stickered up board and colored wetsuits anywhere on the beach he chooses....and so will I.
Boards been snapped, he's helmeted and 200 plus pounds and focused!
Posted by: tom at December 7, 2004 04:56 PMUmmm has anyone ridden a bonzer out here in Triple Overhead surf?
I don't think so. And yes you do need fins when it's big.
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 05:06 PMKorwin, did you see the bell?
"The fucking thing was from here to, fuck, over there..."
Posted by: Kaiser at December 7, 2004 05:08 PMhey anon....
i think i know a few cats that have ridden
all sorts of boards in DOH+ including bonzers....
"and some fucking guy comes with a fucking
torch and carried the fucking thing off. must
have weighed a fucking thousand pounds."
"i'm getting some chinese food and fucking going
Posted by: korewin at December 7, 2004 05:45 PMback out there!"
dude, i heard the bell ringing and was like, fuck! that's the bell!
Posted by: elias at December 7, 2004 05:48 PMi've seen friend #1 with his bonzer.
i bet he has some stories...
and that's the news and i'm out of here!
Posted by: elias at December 7, 2004 05:50 PMWow - it' be all slate wid' you surfer dudes. If I may call you that - ok - we be the neighbors chiming in on the u -' uh what' backside.
Posted by: Slate at December 7, 2004 06:43 PMIt's like that you don't know or something - that's cool.
Onnicenesserous
From the 308310217.808415-657-81.431.06:
That's not Todd. You guy's here on on some serious ass crack.
Posted by: Rest. Yer. Neck. at December 7, 2004 06:47 PMChrist almighty - GO HOME! IT'S THE HOLIDAY'S.
Focus on yourself.
Surf your own deal.
Our seasons over any way, rest all yer necks.
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 07:08 PMTodd, we sure are glad you're here. This is the perfect place to complain about surfing etiquette at Ocean Beach. We'll send out our regular band of enforcers to ensure that what happened to you doesn't happen again. Be nice, and come again.
Posted by: blakestah at December 7, 2004 07:47 PMSan Francisco surfing is stuck in the 70's.
Posted by: at December 7, 2004 07:56 PMThat last pic is sick!!!
Posted by: mexi at December 7, 2004 08:14 PMBig dudes, big boards, big waves. Now that's what I'm talkin' about.
Posted by: Spider Man at December 7, 2004 09:08 PMSURF POTENTIAL
Posted by: cadaver at December 7, 2004 09:24 PMNo spot naming
waah, waah, waah, save it for someone who cares.
Posted by: 182 at December 7, 2004 10:51 PMReef Ads: Check.
Idiots Who Don't Understand Why Reef Ads Are Wrong: Check.
Pro Surfers: Check.
Hawiian Worship: Check.
Pro Surfer Idolization: Check.
Kooks: Check.
Faux Locals: Check.
Flogging Dead Horses: Check.
Complete Inability/Failure To Excercise Editorial Responsibilities: Check.
Posted by: at December 8, 2004 10:37 AMposters hiding behind anonymity: check
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