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No joke, go for broke!

Ho daddy!! Massive waves pounding the coast right now. California buoy at 18ft 17seconds!!! Large! All the “Do not swim it’s polluted here” signs were up along the beach last night. Maybe take your 10ft log out at Norismegma for a leisurely paddle. PSYCHE!! Man.. a few spots from Big Sur to the Russian River will be firing on all cylinders today. If you’re blessed with the ability and lack-of-work, have a great time, get shacked, enjoy it. If you’re underskilled, maybe just watch and soak it in from afar. No joke winter-in-norcal kinda day.

But.. sorrowfully.. like most of y’all, I made my way to the 9-5 this morning. Rode my bike through the damp, muddy park and then past Alamo Square. An uncanny succession of events earlier in the morning made me irritable and angry. I spilled my milk and cereal all over my couch after tripping on a juggling ball. My bike tire was flat and I had to walk to the gas station to pump it up. I forgot my keys and had to call my landlord to let me back in. A huge dollop of water splashed down on me as I slammed my door in frustration. It seemed that one thing after another went against me. The angrier I got, the more things seemed to plot to irritate. I started sprinting down the street and my chain ripped off. ARrggh!! I dismounted to fix the chain and in my aggressive movements cut my calf on the exposed crank!! Arggh!! So.. that’s how my morning progressed as I rode to work. Fuming with anger, I could feel my breathing grow heavy and deliberate. My muscles felt taught and enraged. A huge glob of phlegm built up in my nose as I rode my bike. I blew a snot-rocket and proceeded to smear it all over my arm!! ARGGGh!! Now I was really pissed. My other nostril was also chock-full of juice so I heaved another snot-rocket toward the ground. To my utter amazement the snot-rocket propelled from my nostril with vehement force and shattered the asphalt with a violent explosion! What the fuck!! Quickly I felt as if some inner demon took over my person and I soon started blowing snot-rockets in every direction. I shot one at a car and the thing exploded right next to me and went whirling through the air. I snot-rocketed this pigeon up in a tree and the whole tree exploded and sailed off into the distance. Suddenly I felt like some psychodelic Incredible Hulk as my body grew and bulged into this heaving, blood-red, muscular mutant. Only rags remained and my teeth grew into these wicked fangs. Soon I was downtown, ravaging the populous with my snot-rocket explosives. City Hall demolished. I was stomping and tearing and crushing and pummeling. Roaring with excessive rage!!! Arrgggh!!!! I picked this huge booger and hurled it down Market street. The thing exploded and huge crater was left in its wake. Arggh!!! Death!! Destruction!!!! Arggghhgh!! Soon much of downtown was ruined. Nothing but rubble and blood, dust and whimpering. But then the skies opened up and this beautiful, elegant pink flamingo came flying down and landed on my shoulder. It had some calming effect on me and I shrank back down to my normal self. Snot still oozed from my nose but now it just stung as I sniveled and wiped. I looked around me and took in the destruction meted out by my own hands. Total annihilation. I kept sniveling and soon began to cry. All this rage and violence. All this injustice and cruelty. From my own hands. I started to cry. I started to wail. My tears began streaming down. After a while I opened my eyes and was awestruck at what happened before me. As each of my tears hit the ground the destruction was rectified. Each tear seemed to return the ground/buildings/people around it back to their former shape. I continued crying, now both with sadness and happiness. I ran around the city, balling my eyes out, returning each block to its former self.

Then I went to work.

SURRRRFF!!

Neal photos from Pipe yesterday - www.hisurfadvisory.com

RIP Dimebag Darrell

Here's some vid of our first nicely angled swell into southbay. I know it is nutin' compared to you OB folk but still was big and fun for us socal pussies.

happy thursday.

http://elporto.com/index.php/fghd/256/0/

Posted by: Hb at December 9, 2004 10:20 AM

Mavs tow in action on the cam - http://www.mavsurfer.com/live_cam/

Posted by: traut at December 9, 2004 10:40 AM

Mavs tow in action on the cam - http://www.mavsurfer.com/live_cam/

Posted by: traut at December 9, 2004 10:40 AM

e,
From your commentary yesterday:

surfing rules
talking about surfing is fun but frowned upon by many
If it's crowded try to find your own peak
Hold onto your board at all costs
Project good vibes if possible
Give a wave

I agree with all of these but don't get why talking about surfing is fun but frowned upon by many. Who frowns upon it? Why? Isn't this blog for surfing talk, therefore not frowned upon? Are you talking about the tourists who come up and ask a bunch of questions? ...just curious.

ggvg

Posted by: ggvg at December 9, 2004 10:43 AM

Great video, hb. Another fun one from that site:

http://elporto.com/index.php/car_flip/120/0/

Posted by: klooless at December 9, 2004 10:45 AM

ggvg - what i meant when i wrote that talking about surfing is frowned upon by many is that talking about surfing in a positive light makes surfing sound more appealing. This results in more people wanting to surf. This results in the increase of crowds. This can result in ruining people's good times.

Posted by: e at December 9, 2004 11:04 AM

e- thanks for the clarification. Talking about surfing in a general crowd, or amongst non-surfers...gotcha

Posted by: ggvg at December 9, 2004 11:08 AM

nice video HB, makes me remember the days as a kid coming off the hill when it was flat. the funny thing is how many closeouts there always are (were) in the SB. I remember a few days at burnout when it was looking like backdoor pipe, closeout on the last 10 feet.

Posted by: dsx at December 9, 2004 11:11 AM

Hb—that el porto looks dope. catch a few fer me.

and e—we should all post detailed accounts of
beat downs and thrashings sometime. that would
be surf talk but not too enticing.

tomorrow could be really, really good.
there is some SERIOUS juice out there.
although the water in F***IN NASTY.

i checked it this a.m. and saw brown foam and
multiple logs floating on the inside. wooden logs
too NOT baby ruth logs. yikes.

anyone wanna post some odds on the timeframe
for the loss of the sloat second lot? the surf looked
hungry for the great highway this a.m.


Posted by: korewin at December 9, 2004 11:12 AM

I think second lot will be fine.

You need a combination of conditions to get serious erosion.
1) over 6 ft high tide
2) 30 knot onshore winds blowing for hours before
high tide
3) over 20 ft buoy

You get all three, like we did on 100 ft Wednesday, and all the sand goes bye bye. But today, with no onshore winds and no ultra high tide, will be no worries, mate.

Posted by: blakestah at December 9, 2004 11:21 AM

local 415 where are you surfing today you big stud??

Posted by: at December 9, 2004 11:29 AM

his bathtub!

Posted by: local 415! at December 9, 2004 11:30 AM

Posted by: at December 9, 2004 11:33 AM

does anyone remeber the link that will email you the beach closures due to pollution? thanks

Posted by: bodega boy at December 9, 2004 11:40 AM

Posted by: at December 9, 2004 11:43 AM

http://www.earth911.org/WaterQuality/default.asp?beach_id=49&cluster=3

Posted by: klooless at December 9, 2004 11:46 AM

(?) how does one post a pic?

Posted by: DAK at December 9, 2004 11:52 AM


She rips...

Posted by: mexi at December 9, 2004 12:01 PM

Blakestah- what was the swell size (and direction)on 100ft Wed??

Posted by: traut at December 9, 2004 12:03 PM

were you out yesterday?

Posted by: Evan T at December 9, 2004 12:07 PM

Paul, your pictures are great. It seems like you only put the good ones on your site. You must have other pictures that did not make the cut - so to speak. Do you have those pictures up anywhere that we can look at them?

Posted by: Evan T at December 9, 2004 12:13 PM

Remember this silly photo? Unless they change their minds, it will be running in Longboard magazine soon.

Posted by: Bruce at December 9, 2004 12:13 PM

look for a mexisurf photo feature in the upcoming niceness the mag.

Posted by: e at December 9, 2004 12:18 PM

congrats bruce.....

yeah mexi...post up some of the B level shots here more frequently if they don't make the cut on your site.

pics sure beat the downloading of quivers with the dimensions and the height and weight shit that's been going on around here.

dimebag darrel got pumped full of holes? I didn't know his music but supposedly he ripped......

Posted by: tom at December 9, 2004 12:20 PM

100 ft Wednesday

Pt Reyes Buoy 25 ft 20 sec 300 deg

HMB buoy 23 ft 20 sec 300 deg

Peak swell occurred right at a 6.5 ft high tide.

Winds were not onshore though.

Posted by: blakestah at December 9, 2004 12:25 PM

I'm planning a big liquidation of all the B-shot slides in a few weeks, I have thousands of slides that are marginal, but would probably be perty special to the people in the pics. So it'll be a big slide give-away, FREE. I'm a little backed up on print making for orders and scanning for E and others, so I'll let it be known when I plan this. This will take place in my new Parkside house garage (Tunitas home fell through).

Posted by: mexi..p at December 9, 2004 12:28 PM

Way 2 go Bruce... that ones classic.

Posted by: Mexi at December 9, 2004 12:29 PM

nice bruce!

that dude was in pantera

Posted by: bagel at December 9, 2004 12:55 PM

Congrats on the pic Bruce - once again I looked at it and choked on my drink, laughing.

OB: wow, it's Kill Your Enemies Day. Anyone chucked into this incredible display of nature's fury will surely disappear without a trace. On the slim chance they survive, the grisly effects of poo water should take 'em out in short order. Hrm. I think e's angry snot balls have something to do with this.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 9, 2004 12:56 PM

Sorry Tom,

The post yesterday was in response to someone's claim that bonzers are not ridden in big surf.

The main thing I found out from yesterday is I am old and heavy, and ride boards too long for the conditions.

Good to know

Posted by: friend #1 at December 9, 2004 01:00 PM

breakin'

Posted by: e at December 9, 2004 01:07 PM

it's all tongue in cheek here, all the time F # 1.

but pic's rule for sure. this guy has been getting some barrels lately huh mexi and bruce?

Posted by: tom at December 9, 2004 01:11 PM

E! Check out a doc. called Style Wars. Saw it the other night, mostly about the origins of NY graffiti but some breakin' and mc'in' too. Cool vid.

Posted by: Hb at December 9, 2004 01:24 PM

the fort or deadman's anyone

Posted by: at December 9, 2004 01:24 PM

FP is flat just checked it. DMs is looking wierd

Posted by: dsx at December 9, 2004 01:30 PM

those spots only work on high-tide anyway. only on medium-sized south swells.. plus you'll get beat-up.

Posted by: at December 9, 2004 01:34 PM

stye wars is HOT.

Posted by: elias at December 9, 2004 01:35 PM

don't forget breakin' and breakin 2: electric boogaloo!

Posted by: turbo at December 9, 2004 01:39 PM

So what do other longboarders do in the winter?
I love surfing OB but in the winter its too big for my 10 footer and the crowds at Linda Mar suck the fun out of surfing.
Should I find another sport like jarts?

Posted by: isotope at December 9, 2004 02:02 PM

Just finished up charging some chargables at Mav's with my charging tandom partner, Chargette. Charged the left with Chargette charging the "Karate Kid Pose" while on my forehead. She charges....and she's a fucking fascist in the sack!!

Posted by: Mav's Charging Charge at December 9, 2004 02:02 PM

anyone hear of a search going on right now for a tow team off of Pacifica?

Posted by: tom at December 9, 2004 02:21 PM

Damn, just reading for the first time today. Nice girlie pics. Glad someone stepped it up.

Bruce, congrats on the pic! You are going big time. Let's hope you get some coin for your time. Much deserved I say.

One of these days I will work on getting you a cover shot for "Over The Falls" Mag. or something. I am good at that.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 9, 2004 02:56 PM

I saw Charging charger and Chargette chrging the chargables today. Fuckin A.
Chargette was sitting on his face while he's bottom turning around a fat section. Fuckin A.
Rad for sure. FUCKIN A.

LOST AT SEA. FUCKIN A.

Posted by: Fuckin A at December 9, 2004 02:56 PM

Those pics remind me of a time long past when I went to Atlantic City on the weekends. Clubbed most the night at the Sands and then headed over to an after hours club on the boardwalk that was open til 10am. Local gangs used to have breakdance contests. Really cool to watch the intensity and rivalry between the gangs on the dance floor. Bitch was driving back to Philly at 11am with all that sun and no more coke and whiskey.

Posted by: Dennis at December 9, 2004 03:04 PM

nice Dennis.. crazy..

check this photo of Jamalia Star from santa cruz going left at Sunset?? She took off on a huge wave at Waimea last year.. maybe the biggest ever paddle-in wave for a woman.

Posted by: e at December 9, 2004 03:06 PM

no search. no rescue.

a tow board washed ashore and the cell phones started ringing.

Posted by: tom at December 9, 2004 03:07 PM

but there would be a lot of slow singing and flower bringing.....


...if my burglar alarm started ringing.

Posted by: tom at December 9, 2004 03:11 PM

whaddup with the fog?? looks pretty thick from what i can see on the cams. blakestah, que pasa?

Posted by: loon at December 9, 2004 03:23 PM

Before and after surfing Pacifica in the rain.


Posted by: at December 9, 2004 03:24 PM



Posted by: at December 9, 2004 04:17 PM

Calling all Bagels... BAGEL... B-A-G-E-L!!!!

I need some 411 and I can't find your email. Hit me LanceEA at yahoo

Word.

Posted by: Kaiser at December 9, 2004 04:19 PM

welcome back james... to the land of the ethanoid.
what a post! a big silly, salty hi five to you snotface!
you make the world a better place to be!
ps... your snot rockets are mere dribblers when compared with mine! up for a snotty challenge?!

Posted by: lord binklestein at December 9, 2004 05:04 PM

binktowski!! i'm definitely up for a snot-off!

most of the reports

Posted by: e at December 9, 2004 05:29 PM

Kassia is mine!

oh, and surfs up..

Posted by: seths at December 9, 2004 07:21 PM

nice one E..aaa memorys

Posted by: bagel at December 9, 2004 07:21 PM

weird to read some of those old reports....i wonder what ever happened to penis enlargement and gay sex...they haven't posted here in a while.

Posted by: jdz at December 9, 2004 08:32 PM

Blakestah's forecasts are often so perfect it's friggin' spooky. Met one of the Mav's guys last year who said the crew asked Sponsler to tune down the accuracy a bit. Who cares? The next Jay may be ready to go for it and need some help.

Clear sky over Portreo Hill and I'm hoping the swell holds. Heading to HMB in the morning and searching for a boat. Feels weird since I lived on a 35' sailboat for a few years. See ya' guys on Monday with shots from the water or the bluff.

Posted by: Bruce at December 9, 2004 08:46 PM

The tow team off Pacifica.

Guys put in, and lost their sled. They decided instead of towing in, they'd just tool around up and down the coast. The sled and tow board washed in, and people called the coasties. The jetski landed, on its own power, a little later, to find out the coasties had been called to find them. They were busy jumping crests of waves.

Thanks for the props, Bruce, but I wouldn't sweat tomorrow except after 2 PM if you wanna shoot, and only from the boat - the cliff will be too glared. Today was 20-25 ft, tomorrow there will probably be SOME 15 ft sets.

The Mavs regulars are mostly all freaky weather nuts too, when the big ones start coming in they are tuned in to all sources including raw data. I don't think Mark or I have much impact on that. You cannot hide a 20 ft swell...

Posted by: blakestah at December 9, 2004 08:58 PM

Fort Point yesterday.

I wanna thank all those who showed up to "charge it"

Since the swell is dropping and its friday i wanna make sure all the yuppie dot com Marinites are invited to Ft Point for a gay surf fest.

I promise there WILL be intimidation, stink eye, and all my pot smoking burn out friends enforcing the cove.

Now we return to our regularly scheduled programing

Posted by: Burned Out Local at December 10, 2004 07:52 AM

If you know who I am you saw what was.

Hey Blake: What will the waves be like at Rincon the afternoon of the 23rd, 24th and 25th?

Posted by: Local 415 at December 10, 2004 08:27 AM

hey local 415 how do we know which grumpy kook is you? I mean so we don't drop in on you and then have to face your local wrath? you big stud...

Posted by: at December 10, 2004 09:16 AM

Fort Point is a mush-burger. You grumpy "locals" can have it. You can have that other left as well.

Posted by: at December 10, 2004 09:21 AM

That guy squatting in the tube and also dragging his ass on the drop is an inside paddler who surfs like he has had too many latte's. Inside paddler!!!

Posted by: at December 10, 2004 09:23 AM

That is Jamila at Waimea, not Sunset.

Posted by: at December 10, 2004 09:24 AM

that's not what the website says. it says it's sunset and her name's jamilia. that may be the heaviest wave i've ever seen a photo of a woman surfing. she is a true charger. seems like she's kinda underground, though. does anyone know her?

Posted by: steamwand at December 10, 2004 09:52 AM

what is an inside paddler?

is that good or bad?

dude is shacked twice, probably twice more than you ever were.

way i see it until you put up some shots of you, i vote his waves a 10 and your's a "did not paddle out"

Posted by: at December 10, 2004 10:07 AM

sure thing there buddy. an inside paddler is someone who paddles on your inside and takes the wave from you. Pretty self-explanatory. That guy in the red-sleeve suit is an inside paddler. Did I say anything about my abilities? No. But you're probably a kook if you think those images are "shacks." You don't know what a shack is.

Posted by: at December 10, 2004 10:17 AM

no way that is sunset -- you can't get that angle from the water at Sunset. It is a classic Waimea shot. The website got it wrong.

Posted by: at December 10, 2004 10:18 AM

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