Large and in charge
Gorgeous, macking, poorly-shaped outer bar dumpers. Spectacular morning. Sunny, 65 degrees, light offshores. One guy way way way out the back. I didn’t see him paddle for any during the 10 minutes I watched. The paddle out actually didn’t look tooo bad. Most waves were big and burgery. The right place at the right time could find you slingshotting down the face of Norpac groundswell behemoth. But for the most part conditions were mushy and inconsistent.... and big. Not much of a low tide until after dark so the options get pretty slim. If you’ve got your favorite higher tide big swell spot go hit it and don’t tell anyone about it... except me if ya want! ha.
Supposedly they’re running the The Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay today. Anyone know if there’s a live webcast?
Pipeline was so fun to watch yesterday. It was cool to observe all the lineup jockeying and pre-wave positioning of the ASP guys. Jamie O’Brian seemed to bully Taj off the main peak. People faking like they’re going left just so another guy can’t go (interference call) and then going right. People taking off SOOO DEEEP at Backdoor and just plugging themselves into brutal, cavernous pits. Ledging drops. That wave is awesome!!!
Got a call from Jocular Jake that he’s back in California and maybe living in Santa Cruz for the next few weeks. Anybody out there work for a santa-cruz-based Bioinformatics company and want a bright young spark to join the ranks?
SUuurrff!!
Slates at Backdoor
backhand gauge but the Naughty one
artist named Poch
"Strong winds in the north-west Pacific Ocean sent towering waves crashing along Hawaii’s coast, prompting officials to close beaches amid fears that some waves could reach as high as 50 feet.
The National Weather Service put high surf warnings in effect for the north-facing shores of all the islands except Lanai until later today.
“High surf coupled with unusual high tide levels have a tendency to magnify the effects of the event and increase the probability of damages to homes, roads and infrastructure in the affected areas,” said Doug Aton, acting administrator for Oahu Civil Defence.
A handful of beaches on Oahu were closed, and Kauai County officials closed beaches on the Garden Isle’s north shore as a precaution.
In the past, such high surf has caused damage to beachfront homes, and left beachside roads and highways littered with debris.
The agency advised residents to avoid the beaches and stay out of the water, but city lifeguards said they expect some of the largest crowds of the season to attend a seldom-held big wave surfing contest."
Posted by: lerm at December 15, 2004 10:15 AMYou can see some of it on the surfline cam; though poor quality and only the take-offs. Those sets are huge! And up to eight guys on a wave---yikes.
Posted by: klooless at December 15, 2004 10:21 AMSlates working for style points, backdoor 2004
>
Posted by: pipe dreamer at December 15, 2004 10:24 AMhttp://www.quiksilver.com/eddie_aikau_04/live.asp
Posted by: steama at December 15, 2004 10:24 AMThat guy Poch is sick. It's amazing to see where street art or graffiti, whatever you want to call it has gone.
Posted by: Ian at December 15, 2004 11:10 AM
Posted by: e at December 15, 2004 11:13 AMgreat article here IMHO:
http://www.sfgate.com/columnists/morford/
"...After the announcement that gay Chinese and gay Russians may legally marry and grow lovely gardens of marijuana as they all get free dental care, will America remain terrified of nipples and queers?
Canadians. So mellow. So laid back. So gay. So not producing any truly superlative modern-rock music or ultraviolent buddy-cop movies and not actively siccing Wal-Mart or Starbucks or Paris Hilton on the rest of the world like a goddamn cancer. They're just so ... nice. And boring. And calm. And solid. And friendly."
Posted by: kookdom at December 15, 2004 11:18 AMRemarkable shot, that one of the guy pearling, don't think I've ever seen a surf photo quite like that.
Here are 2 paintings by John Currin:
Posted by: cadaver at December 15, 2004 11:32 AMCadaver, thanks, you always post the good ones. Good call on that surf shot. Never really seen anything like that. I leave for Jackson Hole on Sunday. I'm staffing a high school ski/nowboard trip. I did it last year to Mt. Bachelor. These kids are gunna be crazy... 16 hour bus ride. Hopefully it's good. Last time I went to Jackson Hole it was -18 degrees. Too cold to snow, it was all ice!
Posted by: at December 15, 2004 11:37 AMCadaver, thanks, you always post the good ones. Good call on that surf shot. Never really seen anything like that. I leave for Jackson Hole on Sunday. I'm staffing a high school ski/nowboard trip. I did it last year to Mt. Bachelor. These kids are gunna be crazy... 16 hour bus ride. Hopefully it's good. Last time I went to Jackson Hole it was -18 degrees. Too cold to snow, it was all ice!
Posted by: Ian at December 15, 2004 11:38 AMeast coast
Posted by: e at December 15, 2004 11:44 AMeast coast surf blog
Posted by: e at December 15, 2004 11:45 AMIan - enjoy J-Hole. sweet place.
steama or others - re the Eddie link...is it working (i.e., streaming) for folks? i only get the (very cool) video clip re the ceremony yesterday, but can't find the live coverage. help!
Posted by: ck at December 15, 2004 11:48 AMno live coverage of the Eddie this year, website says video problems will prevent live video this year.
Posted by: dsx at December 15, 2004 11:55 AMe-
With all due respect E,I hope that you did not call this morining's OB mushy. I'm already in the ocean's dog house and clawed over some nice waves today so I'm not going to suggest that it was mushy. Its harder to tell from the beach and it looked a lot smaller too.
Head south folks and have some fun!
Posted by: PEZ at December 15, 2004 11:55 AMdamn. does that mean that i actually have to work today? ; )
Posted by: ck at December 15, 2004 11:59 AMI didn't see anything at the beach that compelled me to paddle out this a.m. I could have gone for the "15-minute-paddle-get-one-wave-have-to-go-to-work-now" plan but that didn't seem that fun. I was armored with my proper equipment but choose to pass.
I second E's description. I second PEZ's call for southward exploration.
Jocular - get in touch. In the hood Saturday. You know the drill. Hoping to hang with Dwayniac and co. early afternoon. Whatcha got for me?
Posted by: Kaiser at December 15, 2004 12:01 PMdamn, that pearling photo is cool. i can feel his ice cream headache.
Posted by: j at December 15, 2004 12:02 PMCan anyone suggest a good site to track conditions on Kauai? I'm headed there at the end of the week (hopefully the United flight attendants don't strike, though they should) and I'm hearing little bits of gossip that freakin' Hanalei bay has been closed in anticipation of the big swell coming. WTF?
Posted by: mr. haole at December 15, 2004 12:15 PMI miss Friend #1's words.
Surfed a head high jetty beach break all by myself this morning. Cool that still can be done if you look for it in so cal.
Posted by: Hb at December 15, 2004 12:57 PMWaves at the Eddie look legendary! Wonder if they can even paddle in today.
Posted by: PEZ at December 15, 2004 01:01 PMI see your "pearl necklace" and raise you with a "noose"
Anyone know an appropriate Zeppelin tune for this one?
Posted by: tom at December 15, 2004 01:05 PMMeant to post this yesterday but forgot:
Nate: I second Manuel Antonio as a good spot in CR if you want to surf but need other things to do for your chiquita. There is an awesome national park there with tons of sloths, monkeys and shit I didn't even know what it was and a decent beach break right there. Not epic surf by any means but a good compromise spot.
Posted by: vons at December 15, 2004 01:12 PMnorth point looks crazy... and fun!
pez - yeah man.. it was big but mushy where i looked.. probably different at different spots.. and you're correct that the vantage from the beach is often WAY different than the reality in the water. sooo.. maybe i mis-called it.. Dunno... sounds like you had a good session.. or at least exciting.. niiice.. Charge!
Posted by: e at December 15, 2004 01:16 PMMr. Haole, you will find surf, don't worry about it. Use www.stormsurf.com to track the swell angles and you can get the bouy readings from around the islands. Make sure to get your degrees right so you can determine the correct angles. Hanalei will be big but I would venture to guess there will be 1-2 places within the bay that you can surf. Otherwise, maybe seek sheltered locations heading east from north if you will. Plenty of spots that will work, just take a path and check it out.
Posted by: Kaiser at December 15, 2004 01:16 PMmr. haole,
check the embedded url. I found it via Google before my last trip to Kauai.
Posted by: at December 15, 2004 01:18 PMDoh! Embedded url only works if you put a name in.
Posted by: steve-o at December 15, 2004 01:19 PMI was in a bad space Monday. I found myself asking, "When did everyone become an Asshole?"
Later on, I realized it was about the same time that I did.
Hb, catch a peak at SARJ's for me, that's the break I grew up on (albeit on a Morey Boogie). Turn right on Bushard and drive it all the way down until it turns into Brookhurst.
Surfed the crowded spot this AM with Blakestah and Doof. I guess I really should try to go there when it is actually working. Today was not that day. Sloat looked better but a tougher paddle, so we decided to get it over with at the North end. My front yard looked untenable.
I resolve to trade a tough paddle for ridability from now on.
Posted by: friend #1 at December 15, 2004 01:24 PMgood on ya friend #1 and crew for chargin' it!
Posted by: e at December 15, 2004 01:27 PMGallow's pole..
Posted by: bird at December 15, 2004 01:31 PM..anyone check the beach?
Posted by: bird at December 15, 2004 01:31 PMI was born an asshole but it never has anything to do with what board I'm riding!
Posted by: tom at December 15, 2004 01:35 PMcali
Posted by: e at December 15, 2004 01:36 PMMore info on how to be an asshole...as if anyone really needs the help.
http://www.rocketpack.org/raymi-drunk_asshole.html
Posted by: tom at December 15, 2004 01:39 PMnobody's fault but mine, good times bad times or trampled underfoot.
W A I M E A some poor SOB just got rolled on drop.
i love the internet. thanks al gore.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at December 15, 2004 01:41 PMspeaking of easy paddles, great sunrise down at pimpy's today.
Posted by: loon at December 15, 2004 01:46 PMPablo Picasso was never called an Asshole.
I'm straight!
not like....
Hippy Johnnie.
Posted by: friend #1 at December 15, 2004 01:53 PMBuoy isn't dropping all that fast . . . and a daunting amount of 10sec energy along with the 15sec to keep you entertained on the paddle.
Hey bird, did you get my email about your board? Sent to gone2costarica at yahoo dot com.
Posted by: klooless at December 15, 2004 01:56 PMkaiser and steve-o, thanks for the help. that link had the best data i've seen. i am suitably torqued for these conditions... last winter was a bit small up north.
Posted by: mr. haole again at December 15, 2004 02:24 PMyeah, klooless, sorry i have been slacking on getting back to you..
off the top of my head it is 6'3", 10 1\2",
19 1\2", 14 1/2", by 2 1/2" with a swallow tail. It is shaped by pearson.
you are welcome to come by and check it out. i live in the outer richmond. i'll email you my phone #.
Posted by: bird at December 15, 2004 02:24 PMyeah, klooless, sorry i have been slacking on getting back to you..
off the top of my head it is 6'3", 10 1\2",
19 1\2", 14 1/2", by 2 1/2" with a swallow tail. It is shaped by pearson.
you are welcome to come by and check it out. i live in the outer richmond. i'll email you my phone #.
Posted by: bird at December 15, 2004 02:24 PMKirk Hammet interview at the Eddie! HA HA!
Posted by: kookdom at December 15, 2004 02:29 PMthose currins are good..
whats the eddie website? i just get a comercial on that one..
Posted by: bagel at December 15, 2004 02:41 PMThe Eddie feed is on......Go PETE!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at December 15, 2004 02:41 PMAnyone have a link to the live feed. Surfline isn't working for me. That realplayer link yesterday was perfect. Thanks.
Posted by: tucker at December 15, 2004 02:49 PMhttp://www.quiksilver.com/eddie_aikau_04/live.asp
Posted by: j at December 15, 2004 03:04 PMPerfect. Thanks.
Posted by: tucker at December 15, 2004 03:06 PMmms://media.vitalstream.com/8418_live_aspworldtour3.asf?media=1762291&package=1739634&event=0
Posted by: blakestah at December 15, 2004 03:45 PMthere goes my productivity.
Posted by: jdz at December 15, 2004 03:51 PMThanks for the CR info, vons. I'm considering Nosara area, currently.
Here's a URL on "To Kill a Mockingbird".
Posted by: Nate at December 15, 2004 04:45 PMwhats the deal with dennis hopper lately
Posted by: bagel at December 15, 2004 07:29 PMfriend#1 dropping the modern lovers.
nice.
Posted by: elias at December 15, 2004 10:06 PMsurfboardriding is still fun for me.
CONGRATULATIONS TO BRUCE IRONS QUIKSILVER EDDIE AIKAU WINNER
Posted by: t at December 16, 2004 09:40 AMmhmm..Narrow banded 20-second energy.
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