E's Surf Report

saw a kyacker out there today. weird. i did however see an inflateable beach ball crammed in the back of his rig. whatever it takes. bouyancy is good. but he made the paddle in like five minutes. i wish i had that capability.

cheers to everyone charging.
and to those working.

here to the "proverbial fizzan"

am sloat session. looked great, tough to get into the waves and tough to line up right. overall looks can be decieving one of my worst surfing to conditions ratios ever. very difficult morning. size was head high plus and building but the swell is moving really fast.

Bruce wins Eddie. Buoys maxed at 25ft@17sec

e, Rocky deceives you
no aqua surf shop near 45th in LA County

great bruce photo tom

Good looking red dawn. Seeing the sunrise from the line-up, with all the colors is a fantastic thing.

I was the first one out this morning as far as I could see.

The bodysurfing hellwoman joined me after a while.

Friend #1 paddled out a bit later.

Avoided being clean-up twice.

Duckdived through a few heavies.

Caught a total of 3 waves in my 45 minutes.

Work Christmas lunch party is today, and since I am not planning on attending......

wink wink snake.

There are some pretty big waves out there. 9am, I park mid-beach, take a look; no way. Park mid-north, chat with a guy who just took a look and is shaking his head and saying things like "triple overhead", go up to the bluff, and the first thing I see is a guy coming out with a broken board. It looks paddlable, but big and hard to be in position for the great-looking shoulders of these long lines. Up north several surfers are getting pretty fun-looking rides, but a lot of scratching hard and missing, and plenty of caught-inside beatings, too. I'll do some push-ups instead.

I WANT TO SURF.

I bet Lindy is going off right now! Peeling shoulders, nice and soft. Really doable and really fun....

Anyone what to join me!

HA!!!!

The Doof unmasked.

Took too long getting comfortable out there. By that time the tide had switched and it started to get fuggly. Early on had a good left, not quite equal to Doof's right, but fun nonetheless. Later caught a couple lefts through the rip and the second one, my board actually tumbled underneath me. Chop lines up the face caused the outside rail to roll over and then I fall and my back brushes along the bottom of my board (mind you this is well after my take off and bottom turn. Still I was in the whitewater thinking, "Man, this is the absolute worst position I could possibly be in."

Waves looked way cleaner to the south so paddle over there. Caught two Mackers that I only got down and then had to straighten off. The second one I actually rode a bit after the bottom turn, but I couldn't bring myself to pull in under the pitching lip and so turned into the flats.

Held down deep on both of those. At the start of my whitewater ride in, I had the Star Wars Hyper space effect as whitewater blasted forward on all sides, after a bit I was fretting if I would get pushed out in front as I needed to breathe sometime. Finally I am birthed from the foam and I think, OK, I did my duty, I can go to work now.

I am also not attending the work Christmas Lunch, but I have a meeting at 1:15, damn.

if you're interested.. a good article about the 3 malloys.
http://www.laweekly.com/ink/05/03/features-donnelly.php

I'm going round 3-3:30 if work allows. Feel free to join me, thinking my hood, why not?

Don't break that bonzer, blake.

Eddie photos from surfermag.com

It would take a very experienced driver to successfully duck dive that MUNI under the lip of that barrel in the LA shot.

Peter Mel droppin in at the Eddie
>

who rode the pink board at the Eddie?
quite a wipe on the "sick photo" series
imagine a 20' backslide down the wave surface and watching the entire aquatic world above you coming at your face

Just for fun...let's compare and contrast some of today's surf reports.

Blakestah...as usual...pretty dead on.

Thursday: the NEW swell is already here at 6@20 from 300 deg. The swell will build from there to 8 ft 17-20 sec 295 deg by 3 PM. Offshore flow seems likely, to complement the clean long period energy. This swell should peak Friday afternoon

Surfpulse...another good report if perhaps, a little more dramatic...

Thursday 12-16-04 at 10:42 AM PST
It's heavy duty out there today. The waves jumped up considerably in size and power over the past few hours. The biggest peaks are double to triple overhead. More significant than the size, the waves are fast, powerful, and THICK.

And finally...Surfline

Dropping but fun, this is Adam with the report for Thursday morning at 7 AM. 4-5 ft. - shoulder to head high with occasional 7 ft. and fair conditions.

AM UPDATE: Smaller more surfable conditions this morning. Look fun but a little soft on the inbetween waves.

WTF??? As my 3 year old says..."One of these things is not like other...."

freakin work...no surf for you!!!

Uncannily like the report you'd make if you only had looked at last night's buoys.

Wow, I never knew there was an LA doggy diner. ;) Those Eddie pics are insane! Not just the size of the waves, but also people wiping out next to you on take off (note the board in the wave in E's pics.

Nice to have my 4/3 back, looking forward to a weekend surf.

Oh, and I'm looking for a good standard shortboard, used. I'm 6'1, 155 lbs. I'm thinking like a 6'2. Anything I should look for or watch out for? I plan to check out SF surfshop and a few other places. What's a fair price for one of these with enough dings to not worry about it too much for travel but no dowels/delam?

Geez

Houston we are go.

I surfed yesterday afternoon/evening at Deadmans AKA Santa Cruz norte, and it was just friggen silly.

First off kudos that nabbed the ones that connected all the way to the inside section....farken nice.

Second, id like to extend a personal Fuck You to that Jack Off with the pearson board who kept dropping in on everyone. The santa cruz virus must be spread thru use of Arrow boards so please avoid contact with them.

Finally, Im glad to see the REAL swell is getting here so i can see that guy on the beach and reintroduce myself.

oh and kaiser please post more hot chick pics.

looks like L.A. county is goin OFF!! God I wish I were down south.

kill bill go back home

6:00 am today: as i wandered from the alarm clock to the kitchen to turn on the teakettle, i tripped over a sleeping dog and landed chest-first on the corner of a portable radiator. briefly went fetal, then cursed the dog and my landlord as i wandered toward the mirror. my skin was nearly sliced open despite my tshirt, and an 8 inch red crease appeared across my pec as if i'd been slashed by a sword. snoozed with a cold compress as i pondered how hematomas to the chest muscle might affect surfing.

i hesitated before heading to the beach. the buoy readings gave further pause. but i pressed-on. my mood lifted as the ibuprofen took effect and the sun rose, spraying pink, orange and red thru the clouds in the eastern sky. almost headed home to nurse my wound after seeing a set roll thru mid-beach. but i found a spot where waves weren't that huge/reeling, got out thru a rip and quickly caught several nice right walls and forgot about my injury.

45mins later i headed in as the tide changed and the sets continued to get bigger, wider & meaner. left the beach smiling. arrived home and apologized to the dog as i savored my little frontrunner taste of a big swell at ob, and contemplated the danger lurking in ordinary household appliances.

JDZ - Don't forget Wise's AM report: It looks a little smaller than yesterday, head-high to a little over in front of the shop.

Midday report - the tide is making it more difficult.

As I drove south on 46th, I caught glimpses of whitewater over the bluffs looking down Moraga.

Sloat had people not catching waves.

I enjoyed my Burrito and Beer.

Doof did not dain to paddle out.

Time for my meeting.

a few comments regarding the report:
Blakes is a forecast not a report. he calls swell impact size, timing and winds.

Surfpulse has an update at 10:45am. which is about the time at which the swell really started to fill in.

surfline was posting at 7am, though i do think they dont actually check the surf all the time they were pretty right on at 7am, at 8am when i paddled out it was a little overhead when i left at 10am it was picking up quickly

yes one of these is not like the other, however none of these is calling the same thing at the same time.

true...i was more or less screwing around...but the thing that got me a little is that the Surfline report makes no mention of a building swell...

That would take away from LOLA's value. Hence no predictions on surfline, even for 2 minutes in the future.

neal miyaki photo

hawaii

oh goody, they learned how to cooperate

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20041216.wshark1216/BNStory/International

surfline added a forecast to their report pages, but it's down in the lower-left area. but as seen today, it's not always accurate/up-to-date, or even insync with the forecast page.

I know who won the Aikau yesterday and I am sure that Irons surfed well but for my money the winner of the day was Clyde Aikau. He is 55 or 56 and still surfing waves that are enormous by any standard. On days like yesterday the whole coast becomes shrouded in salt fog and the steady din of breaking waves is everywhere in evidence. This alone is scary, nevermind paddling out at Waimea with an obligation to dop in. I realize that Aikau is intent on entering to honor his brother but sooner or later his body just won't tolerate it. I hope that there is an award for him when it happens. Impressive.

Micheal Ho & Keone Downing are right behind him blowing my mind.

No mention of StormSurf? Sponsler and Dr. Blake seem to compete for the most accurate forecasts. One of the Mav's guys told me they asked Mark not to be so damned accurate. Everyone was showing up at the same moment.

shaka to clyde he da kine

LOLA is WaveWatch III run on Surfline's computers. My impression is that the FNMOC WaveWatch III forecasts are the most accurate, and if someone predicted SOLELY from them, you'd do pretty dern well. I think it beats both LOLA and the NOAA WaveWatch III. This is particularly true for forecasts MORE than 72 hours in advance, the NOAA and LOLA models often fall to pieces, whereas the FNMOC one is MUCH more accurate.

This one.
https://www.fnmoc.navy.mil/CGI/PUBLIC/wxmap_all.cgi?type=prod&area=ngp_epac&prod=wav&dtg=2004121612

Other than FNMOC models, the outer buoys are important, I chart the buoy spectra at
http://www.blakestah.com/surf1/

which helps me read the incoming swells and trends better. Without this visualization tool it is MUCH tougher, which is why I moved it to a passwd protected part of the website (except right now, when I took it off, so y'all could see it). There's also a marginal number of historic swells for comparison purposes.

Mark Sponsler is quite good (and a nice guy). It really comes down to whichever of us has more free time in a given week to be able to check things...he does a much better job marketing his site than me.

Surfline's revenue stream is all CAM dependent, there is little to no value in their forecasting apart from what you can get from FNMOC and NOAA. That CAM dependent revenue stream makes a lot of cash.

I think Surfpulse's daily report is VERY VERY accurate, the other Mark does an EXCELLENT job with that (even if I disagree with his choice to host a web cam pointed at Ocean Beach).

I'm actually happy and fortunate to know and be on good terms with the other internet surf related people, including those two, and pwizardry.com, and golden-coast, surfvid, et al. Good people, good friends.

Just had one of my boards repaired by SurfPulse Mark's brother Felix. He does excellent work. He's down here in Santa Cruz. Nice guy too.

Every time I'm about to go out, plus a few times each session, no matter how feeble the water may look I ask myself, "Worst case scenario, if I'm far outside and board/leash breaks, am I absolutely certain I can swim in?" The answer MUST be 110% YES. [Have had 10 minute session because of this rule.] Well, TODAY was the day! Friend and I figured we might be able to sneak into a feasible window period before the big swell. We finally spy a pooptential workable shouldery spot 1/2 out. End up space warping by it in the screaming rip from hell - agh miscalculated that rip, knew it was there but thought it was further north. Paddle for seemingly ages to angle back shorewards. Hate that. Now we're at the outer bars which is NOT surfable for me, plus we both need to leave due to work/swell dodging issues. Ah well hell expect the unexpected in nature. Timing and placement to dodge big waves and scoot to land. No direct hits on my head but at one of the first waves I'm underwater, casually tug my leash to find which way is up - and reach the frayed rope. That's a really special moment. Pop up, duck to avoid the worst of another wave - and being the first time I'm in outer impact zone sans nice floaty board start to feel reaaaalllly oogy... then realize this is, of course totally doable just as I promised myself. Surfing is so much about not losing your marbles. Hail my friend, swim in together, relieved to be on the sand. Wish I knew how to bodysurf but none of the whitewatery shtuff was worse than anything I've experienced before. Board in 1 piece waiting for me 1/2 block away. Gave thanks for *every single second* spent horsing around,getting trounced about, goofing off no matter screwball conditions...physically and mentally it farking paaays off! Woo.

Shoutout to 2 guys in same area, was wondering if they were niceness. Hope you got some good rides. I'm sure my friend and I looked..interesting out there but he is very well versed in losing gear and dealing with OBesque situations. Me, just situations, I guess.

'Scuze long boring story but goodness I KNEW the worst case was gonna happen sometime. Nice to get it over with. Now on lookout for 3 foot glassy peelers ;)

any other 70's groms remember watching eddie, clyde and reno charge waimea on wide world of sports on abc? then the sad post contest story on eddie's tragic death? our little crew was so inspired by watching the coverage it pushed into venturing further up the east side reefs on the next big swell. consequently getting our asses handed to us on our 6'7" pintails. returning to the car with the windows waxed telling us to go back to the beaches. ahhh the 70's......

i love pwizardry.com... that guy rules! i use that site every day.

blake - love your site too.

pwizardry and blakestah are my main two sites.. then surfermag forum and shorescrew.com for the humor. Surfline for vids. allaboutsurf.com is good for time-wasting. wannasurf is a good time-waster too. Surrff! I like Lola for the color-coded individual swell charts. You can see all the various swells in the water at the same time.

according to Lola.. right now.. The following swells are in the water:
- 3ft 12seconds from 288 degrees
- 1.5ft 15seconds from 183 degrees
- 2ft 6seconds from 318 degrees
- 11ft 17 seconds from 287 degrees

the red lips graphic is horrible though... imho

RIGHT ON SS! all those play days pay off when it counts. Congratulations, your tougher and more acomplished than you give yourself credit for. CHARGE the CHARGEABLES.

man, if I ever got one of these I would never wake up for the dp. Might not even go surfing on the weekends as I would be napping under a tree in GG park.

sharkbait you're a charging charger!
CHARGE!!

I don't understand how it's ok to give surfers a week-in-advance forecast, but it's wrong to have a cam. That makes no sense to me. For people who work, like most of us, we rely on the forecast - not the cam. It's not like we can jet out of work when conditions look right....but having 3 days advance notice of good conditions certainly helps the scheduling process. Blakestah loves himself.

Did I just hear a can of worms openning??

oh Snap!

NO KIDDING ODB!!!
those cams save so much gas. shoot. talk about a good thing for the environment....
its BS posturing to say that the cams are a bad thing.

there is an art to forecasting surf, combo of swell + weather.

Also- skinny chicks that like doggie-style are so HOT!! (fyi)

plus ya can't see shit on the cams anyway?

SHARKBAIT FOR PRESIDENT IN '08!!!!

(cuz y'all know by that time she'll be on the eddie invite list!)

exxxaaacccttttllllyyyyyy ODB but he will never admit to it. the cam is useless except for cublicle torture. egostah.com and the wind site are all i use. wetsand occasionally. surfpulse for giggles, but i'm a total north-end-at-low-tide slut so their descriptions of sloatacious do nothing for me. unfortunately the north end has looked broken the last few mornings and i may have to leave my beloved and venture into the middle kingdom or maybe even towards the eye of sauron. beware of the boogieman. i can't wait for the sloat shorey to start working again like last year... th-th-th-thumpers...

Round and round we go.....

SS, nice work getting out there. Better work getting in! Always fun to get the leash snapped or ripped off.

BVB, I think the one on laying down in front is a little thicker for ya...

Damn, the buoy's are going OFF in the picture above!

siiick boogie cuttie!
(let me know if it's shitty to post here bbr

i also want to take this moment to pimp bbr's site.. which is super tightly designed and chock-full of gnarl boogie exploits.

bbr's brother

Boogies getting lucky - a rare occurance....

a mini-boog getting waaaaay too much play

so..think the ct boys will smokin' da pipe tomorrow?

HEADACHE!!!!!

great story & attitude sharkbait!

not sure if the little piece of string that connects the leash to your board was involved, but here's some unsolicited and possibly irrelevant advice: for each leash, use 2 of those little strings, of slightly different lengths, just in case one fails.

"Surfing is so much about not losing your marbles." Well said sharkbait. Good on you for not losing them. I remember the day, very vividly, where the same thing happened to me at OB. Makes you feel very small.

Loon: you nailed it. Excellent advice! Will certainly follow..thanks!

that socal wave is one hell of a close out the curse of many an LA county beachbreak..glassy though..

-backing surf cams since 2001

Almost everyone who lives near a cam hates it. Like, 20 to 1 against it. Ask anyone if they want a cam in their neighborhood broadcasting the local park to the internet all the time. I don't think you will find much acceptance for that.

OTOH, ask people who live anywhere if they would like to have surf forecasting available on the internet, and you will find 999 to 1 acceptance irrespective of place of residence.

That, is a huge difference. A level of responsibility to one's neighbors. It is sufficient to note that NONE of the OB surf cams are hosted in homes in which surfers live.

random pics from the web.

some more.

Flea.

Flea.

Flea.

Flea.

Sharky- OK, I confess. I’m a big wave wimp who loves taking photos of big waves. I can still surprise groms by bouncing off the lip or cranking a respectable turn on head high waves or a bit more. The teenage neurons fire now and then. But I get nervous about all the big wave macho stuff when the season kicks in. Your post was so appropriate. If I can’t take the biggest set wave breaking on my head, lose my board, and still make it to shore without the Coast Guard I shouldn’t be out there. OB has a great safety valve on most days. The shore break denies normal people and leaves the superhumans a world class wave to enjoy on their own. But I worry about the days with random sneaker sets or the reefs north of SC where there’s a big channel. Very easy for people to get in trouble.

No one should fool around with big waves, most of all at OB.

Cam hating is a thing of the past.

Juiced for the morning.....

See ya outside~!

We were sittin' here watching Paulsons crazy tube (!!!) when it froze and we heard this thunder. Again. Could it be? Again 20 secounds later. And again. Waves.

Nothing better than hearin' a fresh swell pour in during the night. You just hear these amazing, crackling, rumblings which just echo thoughout what seems is my whole room. I live 10 blocks up the hill from the ocean and that is how we measure how big the swell.

I even heard about 3 non-closeouts come thru.

Sorry about the FleaX4 up above.

blakestah. Why don't you post the scientific results of your cam/forecast survey. Who did you poll?

BTW, I think 999 out of 1000 are DISSrespective of YOUR place of residence. Remember, a picture paints a thousand words, and you post a lot of words on this website.

Bad Vibe...what's up. I got you business card on my windshield. I'll give you a call...

Don't wanna dwell on that right now, but happy to discuss my opinions on cams and my site in person, on the phone (415-515-2659), or in my email inbox.

And if you wanna continue to be an anonymous whiner, you are certainly within your rights.

Nice fun this morn, saw Elias, Duncan, Bruce, and got a few fun ones in the hour I had available to surf. When I was out, changing, I saw probably a dozen rides of all sorts. Deep drop, stall for cover-up, pull out, and a miss drop and get sledge-hammered by the lip, and a make the drop but not the section, small ones (10-12), big ones (15 ft plus)...nice. Hope you got a couple, Elias, didn't see you in the water.

curren is so dope..."oh i just saw a whale jump out of the water"

I'm tired! Did my best pulling together the shots from this morning and posting them on the site.

Cool to meet you, Dr. Dave. Doof and Elias are dope. Kaiser, I think I got a shot or two. Moe, glad I could help with the jumper cables.

Nap time for lot lizards!

Bruce! Those are amazing shots (link).

I can report that conditions were ever so slightly different in pimp-land.

THAT, is Duncan, aka Mr Doof. I went right on the same wave.

Luck of the photog's eye, Bruce shot Duncan instead of me....nice shot.

jolly
joy
surfy
surf
peacy
peace
on planet earth

GO BI.

OMG:

E man. You need to take this here website down before all of you cats get punched in the face. Cams. Damn, you guyz is whack actin' all that and shit. We see you as the most hated enemy OF ALL TIME.

Shots of Mav's from this morning on the site.

Now Dr. B, I didn't get ANY shots of you? Hmmm time to search the folder again. I seem to recall another guy rippin' the place. . .

i'll never undestimate the middle kingdom again... this morning was sooooo fun

doh

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