E's Surf Report

lerm, per this morning, found this on the web

Sol Life
P.O. Box 584, Half Moon Bay, CA 94019
Tel.(650) 728-9455
Scott Crump

Had a blast this morning even though I got Daniel Duane'd a few times...

http://www.surfingsantacruz.com/messageboard.html

Ocean Beach Bigwave Beatdown

I was shooting video at OB this Sunday (Dec 6)and the waves were massive. As usual the sets were coming in in groups of 5-7 large, piling up on the sand bars up to several hundred yards out. The breakers presented 100% covereage of the entire coast with no helpfull rips, just a halacious longshore current heading to Santa Cruz. Hundreds of yards of foaming, roaring, roiling, white water. These sets were charging in, then moving 50 yards left and coming in again. It was near impossible to thread the needle between the sets, so if you went out you just got hammered again and again and again.

When I got to the parking lot at WSS, there was one guy there with a broken board. He said noone else was out. Too big. Too hard to get out. I took one look at the surf and left my wetsuit and bodyboard in the car. Way too big for me. I'd be shark food within 15 minutes. He'd gotten hammered, as evidenced by the snapped board. He suggested maybe someone would be at Sloat.

I went down to Sloat. It took me a minute to search the water for signs of life but I saw two little specks paddling outward. After 15 minutes these guys gave up and came in. They walked up the beach about 300 yards past me and tried again. They paddled for 45 minutes, duck diving every 13 seconds under waves that ran from 3ft. to 8 ft of white water or 15-18 ft looming front faces for the biggest sets. They started 300 yards north of me, passed in front of me in the next 20 minutes, and then disappeared toward Mexico, never making it past 2/3 of the way outside. They would get close, in between sets, then the set would shift and they would be in the impact zone for 5-7 15-18 ft waves, and just get hammered. I watched this throught he zoom and it was brutal. They would pop up, now well inside and keep paddling. This proceeded for the entire time they were in the water. It was like a Greek myth. The surfers who were destined by the gods to NEVER get out. Just when they thought that they were going to make it ...Zeus would send down another 7 waves to beat them back. I moved the camera down the coast once, but lost then after 45 minutes. They never paused for any rest while they were in sight. Adios muchachos. Enjoy Mexico.

Hey Kids! Try this at home, go outside at night when it is cold, wet yourself with the hose, turn a fan on your self, then jump up and down on one leg for 45 minutes, while lifting two small wieghts up and down in your hands, while breathing a maximum of 4 breaths every 8 seconds then holding it for 5 seconds, all the while gargling saltwater. Oh and have your brother or sister hit you with a pillow constantly while you are holding your breath. This is what these guys were doing for over 45 minutes (the second 45 minutes for this was their second try ...) with no break.

Then I saw one guy outside, he was so far out he was miniscule, paddling over incoming sets like Sunset in Hawaii. You know when the guy disappears behind the swell and you only see him when he pops up as he goes over the crest of the next boomer. He is either paddling for life or for position ... or both. I had no idea where he came from. He was just there. He paddled over to the biggest outside sandbar where they were really piling up outside of him and disappeared into the trough. It was like a Laird Hamilton movie .... disappear into the void and either ride or die. He rode.

He dropped in on an 16-18 ft vertical right, and cut a bottom turn to keep the shoulder. He kicked out then paddled for freedom around the set, and got outside again. He then dropped into a left which he rode across the face for a long ride until it died and he paddled in.

I talked with him and he said that he had started 1 hour and 40 minutes previously at this same spot (Sloat). He paddled and got outside at Fort. Funston (?) which is south of Sloat. He then paddled back up the coast, riding a few along the way. Frick'n A.. that is what I call aerobic fitness.

I also talked with the other two who never got out. They said it was a rare day at OB where they could not get out, but today was that day. They said the white water just kept coming, and coming, with no breaks. Continuous pounding. One got to brown water once, just 20 yards from security of the outside, only to have the set rear up, and curl down right on top of him, beat him down, and thrust him back, DOA. These two guys got beat, and beat, and beat, and beat, ....(please repeat for 45 minutes).

I have seen some very competent watermen at the Lane but nothing like these guys. I am more of a waterman than many people, but I wouldn't deserve to even hold their surf wax. Quite impressive. Major studly.

TOM CARROLL, 1987, Niijima Beach, Japan During a pre-contest shorebreak re-entry, TC’s board stuck in the sand nose first and his back foot slipped off sending the fin straight up his ass, resulting in 13 stitches – eight internal (eeeeww!), five external. It gets worse. Doctors gave him an especially strong anti-bacterial liquid to keep the area clean, except all the instructions were in Japanese. Tom poured it on the area directly, causing his entire scrotum to blister horribly within minutes. He then had to run out on the streets of Japan, trying to get some help for his burning sack, and the only way he could communicate is by pointing toward the injured region. (Sit back and ponder that image for a second.) Later found out you were supposed to dilute the stuff 1 to 100.

Surfing is Dangerous! Don't Surf!

MARTIN POTTER, 1997, Burleigh Heads, Australia Pulled into the tube at Burleigh Heads on a 5-footer, wiped out, and the nose of his board pierced his stomach on the left side. Six inches of the nose actually snapped off, and cut him deeply – intestines were literally coming out of the hole – for a total of 40 stitches and three months out of the water.

Don't Surf

Mmmm internet geek taste good....

some guy read blakestahs report and tried to show up and surf this morning with all his kook friends and i shoved my foot in his ass.

i think scott crump packed it up and moved to australia.

asdsdsd

That's a nice post, pdub. If taking 45 minutes to get out at OB is the sign of a true waterman, then, in all modesty, I myself prove my mettle quite frequently, and I don't need overhead waves to do it, either.

Speaking of which, I'm about to head out; looks like something new is peeking in . . .

NO spot naming, vague is vogue. Thanks and enjoy.

WHERE'S THE ASS!?!?!?

Anybody care to meet for a pre-holiday dinner at Sri Thai on Lincoln at 45/56th on Thursday night? Foods great and the place is nice inside. I'm heading over at 7pm with my wife. Thought it might be nice to have company...

Those who want to brawl can just cross to the park after dinner.

see ya in the park!

http://www.gorkhouse.com/shakethatass.html

http://www.gorkhouse.com/shakethatass.html

kaiser,
thanks for keeping the site going while e is gone and thanks for the vibe meter, those pics help the day go by.

i saw your vehicle this morning at vfers around 7:30 but i decided to paddle out at pacheco where crowds were zero except for that ol lifeguard surfer dude in the red/black wetsuit.
conditions where very similar to sunday at santiago... fun, good size, easy drop followed by a nice ride. it looked mushy-er than it turned out to be...

Crump lives and shapes in Australia. Mike (I can't remember his last name) gets Crump's Sol Life boards imported and sells them from a space in HMB. There are two or three guys at OB with Sol Life boards. Mark Alfaro is one.

hmmm aussie boards huh. i'll have to look into that. thanks for the info fellas.

Wheeeeeeee!!!! There are some sizeable sets out there of several thick, motoring waves in a row. Paddles are hit or miss. I got out relatively easily (for me), but had two tough paddles after getting caught inside---including a couple of hold-downs. Self-indulgent report follows: I got two rides: a left and then a right, both of which came right to me, offering easy drops onto clean, steep, faaaaast, big faces. I think these were the two biggest waves I've ridden. I won't try to estimate the size, but however big they actually were, I insist that they were at least four feet bigger than that. . . . On the left I remember appreciating my board as it carved a smooth backside turn on the drop, and then suddenly being aware of the curling lip looming waaay above me (gulp!), and then wondering, as I eventually pulled up and out, if I should have stayed with it longer. On the right I remember the quiet feeling of slicing along the long, clean face as the lip as far as I could see ahead of me was nervously sputtering and threatening to close out---there was no way over it, so I finally punched through the back, which was a surprisingly easy and peaceful end to the ride. Then at last I realized that I didn't really belong out there, and so rode in, giggling.

AND I picked up a new board!

Could anyone be more stoked than me? I think not!

Saw a posse of kneeboarders video-ing each other. One had taken a sked to the head, was bleeding some, but seemed totally unfazed.

Maybe this will inspire some stoke. From recent el porto olas. Check out the top two vids.

http://elporto.com/index.php/video_clips/7/0/

happy holidays all!

Love Bruce's pics, E and 3to5's words and all the other stoked SF'ers.

great surf here lately by the way!! almost surfed out....but not really. later

(skeg)

Nice Kloo....

It's time you dropped the (less) and just went with Kloo...

I'm leaving now........

Woo hoo Klooless! What a perfect day for you. My very early session was just like yours, except for the 2 easy rides ;) Lovely day for a little swim.

Dennis: hrm, cool, 50/50 I might go, thanks shout out.

Merry Salt Water Drubbings everyone,

must be crump is in australia. his number has been disconnected. doh!

blakestah, i don't have your e-mail address. e-mail me wildstar2199 at hotmail dot com.

click for gallery L

Just got back from "lunch." Surf was solid. 20 second energy showing with some punch.

Late post as a reminder

Don took one to the head. Ed Quinn (in helmet) and Jeff from up North were out, as well as Paul and me. Good stuff... but DANG!... big penalty points for being offsides. Wish I had a bigger board. I'm cooked! Don filmed later. Great long period power coming through.

Freaking martinez is back, no waves for the rest of us....

good fun this morning! Once the tide stopped floating everything, there were definitely episodes of medium sized juice. And as everybody is pointing out, it's coming up! Hope the weekend crowds aren't too intense - the place has two completely different personalities, uncrowded - good vibe check it out, and weekend - "contest rules" (and vibe).

surfed kelly's this afternoon and it was off the sheezy. some dude was going through standup barrels like he was eating grapes

Count your blessings, people. I'm writing from the Great Midwest where we were just pounded with about 12 inches of snow. Get wet and keep pimpin'

egp

Hey Kaiser,

A little late (I called in sick yesterday), and I been waiting for you to repost today.

I really didn't think it was you posting under other people's names. It is just hard to call out someone who doesn't use their own name on a post, you know?

Merry Happy.

anyone have the link to the video of the recent beat down on the north shore?

Last call for dinner at Sri Thai at 7 pm. If yur in the mood for food. Have a great holiday ya'll.

Today I surfed. Thank you.

http://www.muchosucko.com/video-hawaiiansurfingbeatdown.html

online poker sites - internet poker, poker supplies | poker rooms - party poker, online poker | online poker sites - empirepoker, texas holdem | online poker - texas holdem, WPT | free poker online - partypoker, texas hold'em | texas holdem - partypoker, poker tables | poker games - poker rooms, paradise poker | online poker rooms - pacific poker, poker books | poker rooms - party poker, pacific poker | poker rooms - online poker rooms, texas holdem poker | free poker online - online poker sites, poker tips