E's Surf Report

I only went about 50 minutes. While changing into work clothes, that peak we were on suddenly got consistent, and I saw many good rides by the three guys who just went out. Story of my life....

CONGRATULATIONS TO KAISER!
A week+ early, the lovely Johanna bouy first showed signs of 4 inches at 33 minutes in the early evening of New Year's Day. Cole* Smith, a 7.6 thruster, snapped his leash @ 1/2/05 in a late and steep drop (like his Superman father) over at a secret SF birthing spot. Mother, father and the goofyfooted grom are all doing well and eagerly anticipating the next outgoing tide.

* Narrowly beating out names of Oneil, Occy, Pacheco and Merrick.

It is muy sporadico... I've been glancing up at the water all morning. Lucking into the right 10 minutes at a precise spot will = rides, but mostly I've seen just a very sparce handful of heads bobbing around. Tempting lulls and friendlier shoulders, then... THUNK! Ambush. Thanks to an expert wearing an OB decoder ring - he got 2 rides - I realized those nearly doable waves are actually well enough OH. Hrm. Mysto beach. Karma will decide session quality of the day for anyone braving weirdness and the FARKING COLD!

Congrats on OBs' newest charger! Do they have a "my first surfboard yet?" Those foamies can also be used for teething. And who hasn't had a moment out there where they secretly wished for a diaper and pacifier?! ;)

And all in favor of buying Kaiser's kid a little cape...

i hope this kid thing doesn't get in the way of kaiser posting pics of reef models!!

congrats buddy!

Cole Superman Kaiser Smith. Already a legend.

great announcement Marco.

Bait - nice on the "OB decoder ring." I suffered from Wave Repellent this morning. I need one of those rings... STAT!

Kaiser! Congrats man!

How dirty was the water today?

congrats Kaiser, best wishes to your new addition.

kaiser no reef diaper shots OK?!

my dog ate my decoder ring. wait i don't have a dog.....

Deepest U.S. Reef Found off Florida Coast

Two Dolphins Trapped by Tsunami in Thai Lake

Congrats Kaiser. Will wave reports now be measured according to Coles height? 6 ft = TOH.

Had the same experience as E this morning but I think my new holiday belly was screwing up my game. Waiting for a new board is fucking torture!!!!

surfer dies at Montara

Welcome Cole! (And well said, Marco.)

Having been away for a couple of weeks, I watched at a certain mid-beach place for a while, seeing some really cool, long, makeable spitting left barrels that the Pipe guys in the pix above would've torn up (but which would've torn me up). I went out a bit north, 9 - 11, and got a few drops ranging from a close-out to a quick end-of-shoulder deal, with only one caught in the right place for a speedy ride. Long, warbly lines, where I was, and very few people out.

Lerm, the water seemed fine, but who knows.

E, I think that guy was a "surfer" only in a pretty stretched sense: apparently he'd bought a wetsuit the day before and was getting a kick out of being beat up swimming in the stormy surf. Still, sad and sobering.

gnarly, montara

CONGRATS KAI CZAR!!!

havent surfed in a week..

:(

congrats kaiser & family!

kaiser sosa, congrats on the new one! new england surf is flat for those who care so i continue to live vicariously through this blog. that is, until friday when i bust it to the dominican republic.

i'm thinking about a trip to portugal, anyone surf there? what are the best times? i'll probably get a chance this summer. you can post or email yahoo with g v i b e 7

here's an update about the sf guy that drowned in montara:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2004/12/29/BAGQQAI7DE1.DTL

p.s. - who says there's no surf in new england?

from 12/27/04:

getting there can be a challenge

Congratulations Kaiser!! But now I figure you're gonna be doing a lot of sessions at that secret spot; M_ B___ T_B, so I want to remind you not to be pimping that spot and getting it all crowded.

peace-

Weed Delivery Guy Saves Christmas

Welcome back E & congratulations Kaiser, doin' the job so people like me dont't have to. Thanks!

I was asked to write a ten best of '04 thing for a friend's magazine/ website and thought athat you all would appreciate it more than any who read H2so4. If it is too long, get rid of it. If not, enjoy.

Top ten surfs- 2004

1. Coal Oil Point, first winter swell in Ventura county's '04-'05 season. Overhead lined up point break with ultimately unmakeable tube sections. For a while I was the only one at the pier on a longboard. Like everyone, I was obliterated trying to hang on in the barrel longer than I ought. As someone paddling out said as I collected my board (and lumps) after a longish barrel, "Piping!"

2. Maria's, Puerto Rico. Second week of Feb. What more might be said of head and a half reef break in warm water on a new board made just for the trip? Oh yeah, baby. Baby! Ahhhh.

3. Unnamed point break, Puerto Rico. Pre "Swell of the Trip" and a harbinger. Only one out, trunks, so what if it lasted only a half hour before the tide wrecked it? So what if the reef was full of vana on the inside? So what if it was cloudy? Score!

4. Unnamed reef break, Puerto Rico. Again alone, entering the water by light of the setting full moon to find the ocean warmer than the already balmy air. The paddle to the break was maybe three-quarters of a mile and the view to the shore was of empty tropical coastline, no buildings, the road kept close by foliage. The surf a powerful seven foot, lefts and rights, glassy as an oil spill. So what if I had to answer the call of the "traveler’s malady" in the line up? The tide was outbound and there were more waves on the way for me!

5. Little Maria's, Puerto Rico. Tiny surf, no one out but me and the lady half, essentially alone. She didn't stand but bounced in prone on quite a few. Until I hit her board on a "family wave" on the way in, a perfect session.

6. Montara, San Mateo County. Out on a day at Montara's maximum ridable height with Pete. Just like we were in high school again except cold and grey. The fist day that justified breaking out the short board in some time- I had forgotten how fun the chip is. Then that damned shark investigated us- so we took off. But not as fast as you would think, close-out barrels are magnetic to human flesh....

7. Pescadero, San Mateo County, two and a half hour bodysurfing session with Pete. I had forgotten how much fun bodysurfing was! I had forgotten how much salt water a sinus cavity holds! So much fun, reminiscent of Sandy Beach with close-out tubes that kept open inside for a while, taking drops that were obviously going to be Phyrric in their accomplishment as sand and kelp shreds forced their way into facial orifices with the force of suburban rioters at the Gotcha Pro. Yes!

8. Ocean Beach, fist swell of the '04-'05 season. New mini-gun, fast as hell. Easy paddle out. Pushing double overhead on sets. Met someone in the line up who had long been a familiar face. Stayed out long past the conditions' deterioration just because.

9. & 10. Ocean Beach October & November madness. Surfed a couple strings of day after day and just beat. Exceptionally fun and hollow head high surf, off shore winds, relatively light crowds and one wave that stands out in memory; it sucked up and went perfectly vertical while the shoulder ahead of me suddenly went perpendicular to the wave face!? I ended on a flying kick out, landing flat on my back from such a height that I wondered as I fell why I hadn't hit the water yet. Subsequently I was recognized in the parking lot as the flying guy by a nice older gentleman watching the wave orgy. Go figure. Surfed many days alone and with Pete, Jeff, Dave and Peter.

11. Impossibly long longboard left-hand barrel (squatting, all 6'2"), San Mateo County. Sometimes local spots surprise even after years of a relationship that might generously be called "codependent". Leashless trim, glassy, barefeet, if only the rest of the damned rubber could be taken from the equation.

All I can say about this morning is wow. Had the entire beach to myself and one other guy for about an hour ad a half before the tide shrunk it to nothing. Once the crowd came out, I traded waves with Bobby Martinez and talked with him for a little bit. Really cool mellow guy. Also rips really hard.

This was my favorite of the Dec 17th, late afternoon, pics.

one of my top 5 days of 2004...

not OB.. somewhere even sketchier. rocks underneath and more sea life than you would ever want to know about.

wow and eep, both pics.

Hope this isn't out of line, but I've got a women's 8t Excel wetsuit I need to sell. Perfect condition, 3 time use. Prefer my old brand, that's all. Posting here before usual suspect places first because I'd rather sell via niceness and give a big discount. madisoncuckoo at yahoo . Cheers!

gnarlsburg..

the guy on the far right of that top pic is pumped!

bbrs wave looks heavier...

imho

ss. check your email.

E, nice to have your words back.

sad to hear about that kid who drown yesterday at montara,

I surfed ob yesterday around noon had fun but I got held down a long time and i thought to myself- i cant believe surfers hardly ever drown out here. so much for thinking that...

Where the heck was the long period energy this morning? I mean it was basically flat... just some weak-ass wind swell. Hummmmm.

i'm confused (nothing new, i know, but still)...was there one drowning at Montara or two? one of the articles is dated 1/4 and the other 12/29. one drowning is shocking enough, but could it actually be two separate incidents in a week?

in happier news, congrats Kaiser on your son making the ultimate drop!

I found it - the long period energy. Definitely showing at OB.

spent 9 months trying to get out and he'll spend the next 70 years of his life trying to get back in.

a friend just sent me an email with this photo from county line last week

and also this sound file

congratulations k-man....good on ya.

welcome back e...

happy new year to all.

the only thing i caught this morning was my son's cold. I did however score a new client...who owns a wine store. I like wine...I like discounted wine even better.

welcome back e, big congrats to Superman, wife, and son, and merry new year wishes to the rest of niceness!

i don't know if the passes are open yet, but i heard tahoe got 100 inches of powder from these storms? holy shiite!

this croc appears to enjoy being hung by his face...

just finished the rob born w australia journal. i'm ready for another surf trip! i'll take a nice mini tahoe mission for now though. more snow on the way!

Blakestah, yeah it kind of sounded like you all did... strange. I was at a place that should get 300 degree swell, especially long-period swell. Oh well, the mystery of swell continues.

Hey, Kaiser, congrats.

niceness after-hours

from shorescrew.

on that Montara drowning:

I've seen in more than one place a sort of "well...he wasn't a surfer, just a kook who shouldn't have been in there" sentiment. I may have even shared in that feeling a little bit - you know, we surfers can handle ourselves in the water, obviously not one of us, what was he thinking...

But when I read the Chron piece on the guy, the story kind of got me. A guy from flatland who was always drawn to the ocean, came here to experience it, so caught up in grom-stoke that he bought a wetsuit with no apparent plan of how he was going to employ it. Then after feeling the power of a burly day at Montara, he's hooked, goes back the next morning for more and...gone. I don't know, something totally farking sad, something lost and a little wrong in that, like seeing a puppy die. Argh. Death by stoke.

that is gnarly..wasnt there one year a while back when like 3 or so non surfers drowned at ob? it was before they put up those signs "people wading and swimming have drowned here" father and son on a fishing boat was one case i think..

those young shores crew whipper snappers i love that little swarthy guy..

the el nino year I think 7 people died. We had lots of Indian Summer days with swell, and the water was so warm people went in...some didn't come out. Mitch started training CJ and the crew to talk to everyone close to the waterline about the dangers of swimming.

Blakestah gets it right. Seven people in one season. As I recall, it was more than all the state beaches in the country combined. Very sad.

The same year I saw a family at Montera. Two sons paddled out, one on a board and one on a sponge. The sponger broke his wrist leash and got pounded. His brother helped him to the beach where he puked a lot of saltwater. End of family outing to Montera. Seeing someone close to dying sucks.

Those of us who have been worked by these breaks (even wimps like me) probably have an obligation to warn people when we can. How else will they know?

Jessica Dunne

The e vibe is back. Hey the K man and other folks seemed to be trying a new tack while you were gone - reporting the really good days after the swell wound down. Just a thot. The crowds seemed to be very doable despite full TASTE waves Christmas week - god is good. Now for the rest of the story...

On the warning tip. Try to be polite when you address that clueless parent. Nobody wants to be told they are not looking after their own child.

I try to show parents the rips that their kids are playing in front of, and how if they just move 50 yards down the beach they will be alright.

It is still hard to get your point accross without sounding like a know it all though.

dope art cadaver, when I drove by that building today I was contemplating its weirness... weirdness

Woke up late and arrived just after blake's exit. Paddled out with lp for a few fun ones, but while they looked great, they were very elusive.

Here's some pics from both ends of the beach taken around 11:30-noon Tuesday.

http://www.scsurfers.com/pics/20050104

Gioni

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