E's Surf Report

Started with Blakestah and two others, a kneeboarder and a guy on ayello board.

Came close to getting out twice, but got denied.

Kept with it, and after finally got got out in the middle of the 2nd lot.

Worked my way to a take off spot, went for it, missed it, got cleaned up by the rest of the set.

Made my way back out.

Again worked my way to a take off spot, and caught a medium sized one.

Then got my ass kicked after that waves died.

Came in, scrambled up the rocks that line the bluff between the two parking lots, and was glad the hot water in my car was still hot.

Once I was in my work clothes, I looked out to see a fellow with a white helmet get two rides with much comments from the peanut gallery.

Then I see Blakestah get a mighty fine peak, pretty much taking off right on the peak. The crowd on the bluff utters a collective, "WWWWWOOOOOOOooooooooo...."

I tip my hat to a fine ride, moreso after the long, long paddle he undertook to get out there.

i wasn't gonna paddle out. i watched like maybe 10 guys paddle out at sloat this morning, and maybe 5 made it. i'm feeling like a wuss for not suiting up, but nobody is catching waves so i'm not too bummed. all of the sudden alex schaffer calls me and is like, "i'll be in the lot in 5 minutes, let's do this" and i'm like "uhhhh ok". schaffer doesn't even look at it, just suits up and paddles out. we make it to the outside in about 15 minutes, and schaffer makes it under the first set and i get my ass handed to me. i only surf for like 40 minutes and get one solid left. i'm already late so i just take it all the way in. i saw alex get two solid lefts and some standup (maybe blakestah) get a solid right, and that was it in about 2 hours of watching and surfing.

.. and nice meeting you mexi!

Paddled out with Duncan. Denied, 20+ minutes of frustration. Got out, wind chilled me to my bones, noticed a few got out, all in the same place. I try again, this time, get to the outside bar easily, then jockey for another 20 minutes, and paddle out right next to Duncan and my neighbor, the only two guys out there. I paddled back north to Sloat where one sponge was out, and one bodysurfer. The bodysurfer gave up pretty quickly. There was a LOT of wind coming into the wave face, even on my 10 ft board the drops were sketch. Made 2 lefts. The board rode down the wave face really planing high, I was afraid the wind was going to grab the board, but I made both.

That's the nice thing about riding a 10 ft board. It was real bumpy out there, sets weren't lining up cleanly, each wave peaked someplace different, gaps in sets were not common. My neighbor got two wave, the other sponge got two, seems like that was enough for today...

There ought to be at least two more sizeable days, although smaller than today, from this swell.

does anybody know the name of any of those surf-photo guys? you know, they come to a spot that's firing, shoot everybody, then post em up on their internet site the next day. had a nice sesh at Steamers yesterday and would love to see a photo or two.

way to sack up gentlemen!

nice fellas! wow, some out in 15 minutes some out in 30 i dont think i can paddle for more than 8 minutes straight..

I brought my excuse to Sloat in the form of my two year old daughter. Wifey had a Dr appointment, so I had the duty. We watched people paddling, and I pointed out Doof on the red board. Then we talked with Blakestah after his initial denial. There was a spectacular lull while we talked and Doof was one wave away from making it through on that. Then it was off to Preschool/Day-care. Friend #1.1 did not get to see anyone go "Vooooom".

who cares about the surf report, i'm dying to hear how the donuts were!

take me down to the paradise city
where the grass is green and the girls are pretty
oh won't you please take me home!

drove out to the parking lot by myself - took about five minutes after weaving through the traffic and scoping the north end.

saw a spot opening up next to the shower. i waited for the right moment and then gunned it.

almost denied by doof and his red board but managed to squeeze into the parking space.

hands got cold in the wind. heater warmed them up.

seriously though - you guys (and judith) had the sack today!

So, I'm talking with Friend #1, and Kaiser goes to his car, and pulls out a big box of donuts. I decided to try again instead of chowing down.

MALIBU
Hey, this is Chris with the report for Wednesday morning at 7 AM.
SURF
1-3 ft - ankle to waist high and fair conditions.

yeah... major props to judith.

Yeah, Judith is Scarey. At least that is what my daughter thought, when I introduced her. She just buried her head in my shoulder.

Of course she reacted the same way to SS Sharkbait, and probably anyone else that would have tried to talk to her.

I had no excuse. I didn't paddle and I am proud of it.

I am, however, kinda pissed that I took a dozen donuts to the beach and Mexi was the only one to standup and take the "Donut Challenge". After killing a solid Vanilla Iced and a Chocolate Old Fashion, I packed up my 9-pack and headed to work.

Thanks for charging with me Mexi!

Yeah, Judith is Scarey. At least that is what my daughter thought, when I introduced her. She just buried her head in my shoulder.

Of course she reacted the same way to SS Sharkbait, and probably anyone else that would have tried to talk to her.

Yeah, Judith is Scarey. At least that is what my daughter thought, when I introduced her. She just buried her head in my shoulder.

Of course she reacted the same way to SS Sharkbait, and probably anyone else that would have tried to talk to her.

The only reason I left the water today was because I thought a fresh donut was waiting for me in the lot - how wrong I was!

BBR, You the man, I wish I could have gotten a shot of you and Alex, I wanted to get Alex on film for a while.

Kaiser, thanks for the maple bar, the others are pussies...

dude kaiser i totally would have been there but im trying to watch my weight..next time for sure!

Kaiser... I'd f'in charge with you. Make mine a chocolate old-fashion please. Oh, and they have a job for you (Krispy Kreme Board Ousts Top Executive)

Surfed in town this morning. What a zoo. Santa stoke-less Crowded.

Sorry, I ate 1/2 of that one and didn't like it.

I watched some of the action today from the warmth and safety of my living room window. I saw the white helmet guy grab a couple. Judith was bobbing around in front of me though I didn't see her catch anything in the short time I had to watch. I may have seen Blakestah's big peak around 8:30/8:40ish? I couldn't tell for sure through the binoculars but saw a big drop and then the rider disappeared from my view. Damned light poles and wires. Thanks all for the entertainment!

white helmet guy was out with me. I caught my last wave around 8:45 or so.

Took some photos today around 9-9:30. Some real nice big drops.

I guess it is more funny if you post it three times.

Watched at second lot Sloat 7:30-8:00. Saw a few get out, several denied---applause to all! And saw just one ride, a big right, well ridden and taken all the way inside. The guy came up the rocks and said he'd felt undergunned, but one ride like that is all it takes. He seemed pretty stoked.

That was the only ride I saw too, I snapped a couple of pics of it...

Sorry, Superheros. Watched the sunrise at 6:30 in the lot but made the mistake of checking my calendar. Early meeting with muckity-mucks so I had to tear back to work. Kaiser calls with the donut report. D'oh! Paddled to my meeting and got pounded by a two-wave negative vibe set. Drifted north to the next session- a real 90 min. whine-athon. Paddled across Market and drowned my donut-starved sorrows in a DOH Quarter Pounder with extra greasy/salty fries. Hopefully back to the zoo at 4:30 for organic, photographic perfection. . . shooting straight into the sun. I've called in our corporate helicopter to drop you power rangers out back, so be there or be square. Kaiser may return with semi-stale Krispy Kreams, as well. Don't mind the fingerprints- he checks them for freshness.

fuck donuts. EAT REEF.

from Adam on surfline:

PM UPDATE: W-WNW swell is peaking. Conditions are great. GO SURF...if you don't like big waves check the more protected spots. Seriously these are the days that you blow off work for.

I'm going out tonight after work... about 6:30 to 7pm. I'll be on a black board in a black wetsuit and wearing a black helmet. Hope someone gets some good pics of me :)

what is it about wednesdays?
notice no one is calling blake names today. hmmmm.

wait till Bob gets home from surfing, probably around 4 PM. He's gonna have a field day.

Unrelated question for designers: anyone know what the name of that font that looks like a condensed clarendon?

clarendon condensed?

no crowd complaints today either. go figure.

actually, kaiser just called and complained about the line at the donut shop.

Had to blow work for today. Dont have the gear for TOH OB so i drove about 100MPH from SF to SC in about 1 hour surfed solid solid Naty Bs...some 10 foot plus sets roaring through. ALL TIME AMAZING. Hope people grabbed a few, the Lane was pretty solid 15' and bigger. back in SF wondering what will be left for saturday....wish I was at Rincon tomorrow at low tide.

Hats off to everyone who paddled out today....seriously...holy fark! Very nice meeting Friend #1 and his lovely excuse.

Kaiser pulled an all time amazing session and nobody's given him credit yet. Get this miracle: dry hair paddle to Bakers' Peak, perfect timing scores him a set of triple frosted donuts. Late drops a chocolate frosted macker, nails this superman move and it slid smoothly right down his face and into the gullet. Damn!!! ;)

What a day! Props to all again..I mean, geez, I wasn't even up for charging a donut.

Good chargin' up there to those who did, i can't even imagine.

Biggish down here but NO shape. What happened to our new bars that everyone thought would spring up after the rains.

by the way E, some hostel-stayers in Hermosa were RIPPIN' at the footbag all weekend i skated by the pier. Crazy moves.

does jeff clark second guess's his decision to reveal mav's, when he's being buzzed by jet ski's and boats, while waiting for a set wave with 30 of his closest bros? hmmmm i wonder........

right on HB... footbag shredders might have been Big-Add Chad Dehvlovich or Ryan "the Regulator" Mulruney or Richie Abshire, all who all live around the South Bay i think.. all rippers on the footbag tip..

shred!

I wonder if you witnessed some guiltless strings.. ala whirling-swirl --> blurry whirl --> blurriest --> ripwalk --> blender --> paradox symposium whirl --> flurry --> eggbeater --> legbeater --> mobius --> torque --> paradox torque --> ducking drifter.

only a few could pull that combo..

shheit i can do that

Those footbag names sound like what some of the heads that paddled out today went thru!

this arvo - you know it's big when it's breaking on the outer reef like that...guess mavs was pretty good today also...

he made the drop on this...

this is pretty close.. holy mother!! this kid is the current world champ..

http://www.footbag.org/media/185/vasekshredfinal.wmv

..same wave. After this point it seemed to go to bits - had trouble holding any shape.

Maybe tomorrow will have some better shape...
Great to have some energy like this tho...

j, that's a fun line.

super mega cutting edge combinations.. gives a taste of some various styles too

http://www.footbag.org/media/186/sick3final.wmv

great photos ankors.

daaaaaaaaaamn e, those footbag vids are insane! mind-boggeling of how much coordination those guys must have.

practice and love sea scum. practice and love.

not this year 3to5...they don't have much coverage up there

After checking Scott's and deciding it was a little too warbly, crowded and all over the place plus a weird wind that felt onshore (bout 9:30 (pretty sure I saw Jeff Clark there getting out at that time also)) Checked west cliff and was bummed on the high tide warble at low tide and general lack of shape/size. I didn't see no 10ft epic Natty B's (that's what I was burnin the gas for anyway). So I Surfed north of town with 2 other people, bad warble and all over but it cleaned up a bit and was pretty fun by 1-2. As I left at least 10 guys were getting on it but plenty of space...that photo's sweet

e, that footbaggin' is resickulous.

I didn't have a gun for todays conditions at OB. MORE IMPORTANTLY, I don't have the balls for it. However, knowing the swell would be pumping today I did the multi-point stop from SC to SLO, then to as dsx was wishing, low-tide Rincon tomorrow. Got Pleasure Point on the low tide at first peak with only about 10 people, wow. I still managed to get dropped in on by some 16 year old super grom. I grabbed his rail and pushed him up the lip, not consciously, just kinda instinctively. Driving through beautiful 70 degree Big Sur I saw about 30 whales during the drive sprouting and feeding on huge schools of fish. Saw a few breach the surface, insane. Unbelievable watching all that energy smash into sheer cliffs. Around the bend from Carmel I sat at one point and watched as what looked to be 20+ ft. faces heave onto dry reef/cliffs. I saw two tow teams doing gnarly tow-ins at filthy and raw Moss Landing. Pretty nuts. Good on every one who sacked up and lucked out on the paddle at OB today. I wish I had a digi for todays little escapade. I'll try and do a little update once I get back.

Ugh, stuck out of the country in a land with no surf and no english speakers!!! trying to get back asap.... argh

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