E's Surf Report

found some large but makeable slabs out there for the sunset sessions fri thru sun. seemed like there were more lefts than usual, grazie for that. northbound current was pretty crazy for me too - even with southbound paddling, i wound up averaging 1 block of drift for every 20 minutes surfed.

bstah, when will the winds start threatening to f' it up today?

my 13 year old niece in RI asked for recommendations on a surf magazine subscription. my favorite is TSJ but i think she would prefer something different. how's wahine? or surf life for women?

"the best surfer in the water, is the one having the most fun."rochelle ballard quote.anyone else got some good surf ,or related quotes?
"tasty waves and a cool buzz""cakewalk""nobody surfs forever""it feels like a womb with a view"

Yo E, thanks for getting my board for me yesterday evening! If I knew that was you I would have made an extra effort to say thanks and hello. I was a bit drained from that gnarly swim in. Boy what a fun experience that broken leash was yesterday evening. I've broken my leash before out there and not had too much of a problem but yesterday afternoon was a river of currents. Was surprised to say the least. Glad I made it in, the undertow and suck out were brutal. The inside vortex is nasty! Just did the backstroke as long as I could and let the waves pound me back to shore. Took all of my energy to make it in, therefore I flopped on the sand instead of thanking you for grabbing my stick for me.

So hey E, thanks again buddy. Next time I'll thank you in person.

Loon- I think surf life for women is a really good magazine (my wife gets it). Also, Surfer's Path is a good bet. Surfing/Surfer contain nothing but drivel and TSJ has the irritating practice of publishing massive, rambling and poorly edited articles about 60's and 70's alcoholic has-beens that no one (particularly 13 year olds) cares about anymore.

ha! no way kookdom.. glad that you made it in.. I got caught by that same set and it crushed me too.. sucks that your leash broke. No worries on the board rescue. it was floating pretty far out so i didn't want it to get sucked up toward Kelly's. Jake and i were wondering what was happening as you were backstroking in the shorebreak. Did you see that lady bowing down into the water? weirdness..

cool kookdom..

Wetsuit question: O'Neill or Excel?

I've had several O'Neill suits give out after less than a year. Is Excel any more durable?

Also, if a novice gets taken out by a wave and loses control of himself and his board and his flailing board collides with my board leaving a deep gash, isn't it proper for him to offer to get it repaired? Or is that a benign expectation? Or am I in the wrong for being unable to effectively avoid the wrath of his inability?

Kookdom...I saw ya as you got so shore and commented to by buddy how that must have sucked. Glad yer ok...mom's told me that someone got rescued last week after getting sucked out to sea. Any validity?

Yeah that set sneaked up on me big time. Felt the current pulling me out, kinda just wanted to catch a little insider and head in. Then I turn around and here comes a couple right on my head. Came up and board is gone. Hate that sinking feeling. Shorebreak was the worst part actually, that vortex wants to pull you back out just when you thought you have made it in from the break line. The bigger waves push you in pretty good but then the little guys in the vortex want to pull you under and out. No wonder unprepared peeps get sucked out while wading at the foot of the ocean and drown out there.

Didn't see the crazy lady bowing down into the waves, sounds really strange. I supposed I was more concerned with myself! D'oh!

Well I owe you one man, an after surf session smoke, or even after work smoke since your bike route cruises past my hood (grove + baker).

yeah. i saw that on the news. the coast guard came out to save him.

fun weekend of waves!

i've also been looking into a surf mag scrip. i want something less pro ho and more adventure/exploration. Surfer's Path?

i like the RB quote.

"charge the charging chargables" is one of my favs i have to say.

how bout "hey bud, what's yer problem"

I have had both Excel and O'Neill. The Excel always let water in, and the O'Neill Zen zip never did. Both lasted a long time, but the O'Neill got much more water time than the Excel did. The trick is to do the fresh water rinse after every session.

I have a Bodyglove Vapor 4/3 now. It is very nice, but we'll have to wait and see how it holds up.

thanks sancho!

amigoism: being a novice myself I'd say he owes you an apology and an offer for repair. Same if he wasn't a novice, imho.

OB reporting 2 big logs bobbing around the middle of the beach. I keep mistaking them for really fat, kooky surfers, or maybe coldwater sea crocs - that would be so cool here - but now I know better. They usually get grounded and then drift out again w/the tide. One in particular is stuck in one of those sucky vortexes - which means when you're coming in from the same area you'll likely end up close to it. Not hard to get around - ended up having an itty bitty party wave w/that farking log...it went left, I scooted right, with plenty of room. But it can be tough to keep an eye on 'em since they keep disappearing under shorepound. Just fyi!

loon and lerm.. i personally like TWsurf.. really funny and great photos. Loon.. it might be good for a youngin' too.. funny as hell.. much better than surfer and surfing. Surfing is the worst (imho) by far. I don't like surfer's path so much.. though i like the techy three-page science section they have.. and the mexi articles they publish..

ASL and Tracks are good too. So is ZigZag from south africa.

TSJ and Water are the ones i'm most psyched to get in the mail..

but.. for a pure surf rag for taking to the shitter and such i dig TWsurf.

My new body-surfing fetish had my playing around in the shorebreak for 45 minutes yesterday lunchtime before I landed on my head and though, "Oh shit, that's how people die" prompting me to grab a set of fins and go out a bit deeper. I was also stationed right in front of the new art, and it was pulling out pretty hard just a bit south of there. Couples times I found myself out further than was comfortable and had to do the cross-shore swim to get back in. There were two different guys on boards that had trouble getting back in through there, but I think they felt better when they saw me, the retard w/o the board, swimming around there. I got about an hour of actual surfing in after that. I watched this one guy catch an awesome ride making crazy skillful turns, then go flying out of the wave. On closer inspection, it was an old fat dude ripping it up. I'm always thorougly impressed when the un-photogenic show up the pretty people.

Oh yeah...deja vu kookdom...perfect description of the last two rips I got stuck in. Inside, you're close to shore, but it's relentless! What a mind fark! I backstoked too just to try to chill out. Spookier than losing the board on a bigger day and washing in, at least for me. Frankly I've kept my last sessions deliberately mellow, to deprogram from those oogy things. Brrrr....discovered my achilles heel!

the most recent surf life for women is maybe the best woman-centered surf mag put out yet, which isn't saying much. but it has a good center photo spread and some interesting travel stuff, along with the pro-ho fashion drivel crap that make up most of them.
i like tsj. i like 60's-70's alcoholic has beens. they're the salt of the sea. and it's important for the niece to learn about the history of the sport.
sat pm north end was the worst crowd scene i have seen yet. not promising. the guy who dropped in on the 14 yr. old kid who was totally committed and might have just made his first serious barrel if you hadn't stuffed him. and the guy who ditched his board in front of the ripper who was pitted. you should be ashamed of yourselves.

The personal microcast says winds turn between noon and two, to nearly due southies. Dunno how accurate that will be. Tired.

i saw the very latest (as in not out yet) SURFER and SURFING from a guy who was at the tradeshow last week and one of the covers (i forget which one) has the most insane wipeout shot i have ever seen in my life. trust me you will be amazed when you see how thick and gigantic this thing is, they claim it the wipeout of the decade.

got some pretty fun waves down near Los Osos yesterday.

Steamward, I'm usually the one hyping how crowded it is (I don't surf the big stuff) But i was on the south end and it was pretty uncrowded for a Sat.

As for mags my favorites are, TSJ, Surfers Path and Sur f Life has a good Central/ North Cal edge which is nice. I Don't even bother with Surfer, Surfing and especially TW Surf.

Yesterday I surfed North Schlindy with 100 other guys but had fun. Then a few hours taking pics of guys getting crunched by the inner bar. More on the site if you're bored.

whatup E! what a beautiful, not-cracked-out Monday. started the day off with a healthy sweat, got a good night's sleep, feelin' fresh. good times chilling yesterday. i made it home and fell asleep on my couch to the calm, soothing action of reservoir dogs.

glad you made it in, kookdom. i have to admit that scene with the lady kneeling and bowing her head to the water, while you were stuck 15 feet from shore, and i'm standing there holding two boards uncertain if the day is ending or starting and if i'm going to sleep or waking up... that was some weird shit!!!!

a little shout out here... if you like djs, the party i was at on saturday night was by Kerowack (www.kerowack.com)... very cool tech funk house. i strongly recommend checking out the super secret video #2. late night i saw the legendary san franciscan dj Thomas (of Wicked)... so sick! peace niceness.

chiming in on the wetsuit tip...

got 200 days from my excel last year.
the glued seams split and the zipper broke
BUT i sent it in and they fixed EVERYTHING
way way after warranty—for free.

would highly recommend theirs.
i have had no leak issues with mine at all.

cheers.

hey bruce - still looking for a car?

check out fightingchance.com. basically - they give you the invoice, rebates, cash back, etc. info on one make of vehicle. then you fax the dealer's fleet manager asking for a quote - it works.

love your site.

from surfermag.com

This past weekend provided to me near perfect OB surfing sessions (could have had just a little more size for a 10). I had the time to wait out the ultra high tide til the outer bars were breaking instead of going out early just because my wife is still sleeping. Got a bunch of nice waves--using my 9 footer helped alot. Rode every wave til it mushed out, though a couple of the waves were drop in then mush outs. Never once had to compete for a wave or had anyone get in my way. I gave up some nice waves to the shortboarders sitting a bit further inside just so not to be a pig. I hate that when I ride my shortboards. Never once had to duck dive after kicking out to get back to the line up. Offshore winds all day. Stayed warm the whole time out. Caught my "last wave in" just when I thought about catching one to go in. Usually that means I don't get a wave for 45 minutes... Then just walked home. Oh yeah.

Bruce - You don't have to be bored to appreciate the shots on your site from yesterday. Good stuff!
I give big props to the maniacs who brave that inner bar. The last time I tried the inner bar, I ended up in the ER in a neck brace, with my head taped to a gurney.
Since the outer bar never really got working during my brief window of surftime yesterday, I too ended up at the north end of Pedro, but in the far north corner. Was that you taking pictures up around there late a.m./EARLY afternoon?

Friday morn through Sunday afternoon, I had four fine sessions on four boards.
Overgunned and liking it on the outer bars Friday morning, finding the long ones on the inside Saturday morning on the rounder 8'0" Bonzer, tracking-down the low-tide smoothies on the Longboard that afternoon, and then stomping on the homegrounds Sunday Afternoon on the 7'6" Bonzer.

Lunch today looked doable but a bit of work and luck would be needed to get the lovely peaks that occasionally worked instead of sectioning. Even on the outer bar. Looked like the south winds were funking it up out to sea, but who knows it may clean up on the ultra low. I would have been the only one out there, had it not been for the cold in my head and limited time for investment.

I am thankful that I could pass-up ridable surf under sunny skies.

Mmm. A lawyer, huh? Too bad. But at least you're surfing now. So your life's not over yet, right?

I don't wanna be a star. Have my picture in magazines, have a bunch of kids looking up to me. I'm a drunk, Bear, a screw up. I just surf cause its good to go out and ride with your friends. I don't even have that anymore.

If I say its safe to surf this beach Captain, then its safe to surf this beach. I mean I'm not afraid to surf this place, I'll surf this whole fucking place!

You take a gunship back to division -- Mike, take Lance with you -- let
him pick out a board, and bring me my Yater Spoon -- the eight six.

design me right outta the picture, haole. here on the north shore we treat friends mo bettah.

its a way of looking at that wave and saying 'Hey, Bud, let's party.'

All I need are some tasty waves, a cool buzz, and I'm fine

In a tragic accident, Dr. Dave Blakestah was struck in the head by a surfboard lost by a friend who broke his leash at Ocean Beach. While not fatal, the injury left the esteemed researcher wandering up and down the avenues reciting lines from old surf movies and mubbling something about neural response rates in rats. :-)

time waster:
http://www.10pm.co.uk/MusicQuiz_Blank.xls

i may have seen one of the thickest lips per capita ive seen at ob this morning at inside sloats. bbr would have been stoked..

fuun weekend..

your a god-damn surf encyclopedia blakestah.

Potato Patch is the new Mavericks.

A Bonestell vision

that's scary. i wonder if those new corners would create bars?

so much for FP localism.

where did you get that Bonestell ? that looks rad!!

well, it is rad if the SR Foundation forces them to make beach and point breaks along the whole outer wall.

surfed south jetty on saturday. fun as hell. glassy too.

time waster

Lightning Pool

Summer means many different things to different people. To some it might mean the thrill of a high speed catamaran. Others like to float around and soak up a few stray rays. Still others like some kind of inland activity. But for us, it's the sport of surfing.

Surfing is out of this world. You can't imagine the thrill of the shooting the curl. It positively surpasses every living emotion I've ever had.

"Seems like a good day to die." - Gerry Lopez

possible wedge off the jetty at cronkite in that illustration...

The quote I never tire of hearing:

Which way you going?

was that from conan?

i hope they do that and make those planes too..south swells bouncing off that wall? dang..

Damn, BStah, you bring it with the surf quotes. I gotta give you that.

Ok, this weekend.....SOLID! My favorite conditions at the beach hands down. I could have used another foot of swell though as Dennis mentioned. But, I too got some pretty sweet rides on my 6'6'' egg. I got some waves with Tomstah both days and watched some really sweet waves come rolling in.

This morning I couldn't pull the trigger with the higher tide.

Let's hope for a few surf opportunities the rest of the week as we dodge the rain.

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/01/24/BUGCEAT1I01.DTL

Bloggers Fired!

Is that Gerry Lopez next to the Govenator??

Kaiser,
Thanks for letting me give the egg a whirl, I've always wanted to try one of them Hobie boards...

Monscara had me doing sit-ups on the ocean floor today. Long hold downs

that is gerry.

It's Gerry alright:

http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0520068/?fr=c2l0ZT1kZnxteD0yMHxzZz0xfGxtPTIwMHx0dD1vbnxwbj0wfHE9amVycnkgbG9wZXp8aHRtbD0xfG5tPW9u;fc=5;ft=20;fm=1

(link includes other credits too)

Just back; hard paddles, waves varying a LOT from place to place as I zoomed north in the current, from cleanish to very frumpy. One left nugget, one close-out.

Mexi, no problem at all. Let me know next time we are out and I am riding it. You can check it on some better waves.

I am really happy with the board. I thought I wanted it a bit smaller at first but I think it is a good size for me.

The price sucked though.

Where dem winds at?

yes 7 o clock and light offshores

Monscara. Perfect description, Posted by!

When the rest of the coast is flat in summer, it's really fun with three-second, two-turn rides. Flush the sand out of your wetsuit (and teeth) and do it again.

Monscara head high rivals the inside waves at OB, maybe worse. Overhead+ is reserved for the Smoke a Jay crew with a death wish. Too much energy released on a steep beach gradient.

Sandow Birk

I've got two boards i want to get rid of and buy one in the middle. I have a 6'6 Minami and a 7'6 Brewer BB. The 7'6 is too big and the 6'6 is too small. I'm thinking about a 6'10 or 7' kinda floaty board. Maybe a rocket fish. Dunno...

I'd be interested in checking out the 6'6" Minami...what are the dimensions and tail shape?

most often heard quote "oh, I didn't see you on that one" figure it out.

or "i thought you were going left" i used that on my friend the other day..

check

still offshore

anybody know a responsible way of getting rid of old wetsuits. I've got a few of 'em now and it just seems bad to toss them in a landfill.

oh, and mags: Surfers Path every time. just as nice looking as TSJ, but writes about things that happened last month instead of 1952.

Joe

Joe,

Get rid of your wetsuit on Craig's List.