E's Surf Report

e - tell us more about your weed hiatus. i've been a daily smoker for years and would be interested in hearing your reflections.

keep pimpin'

egp

Damn! Those pics are sick.

E, thanks for the shout out on the board. You surfed it before I did....Also, Cole is the man, er, X-Man.....Glad the surf was surfable and good thing we charged like the Chargable....

I still backup a donut. Donuts are good.

Oh, and if you use this link to the site: http://www.niceness.org/new_surf/
It is not taking you to the updated page.

I would think it would be the routine that is the toughest to break. I have tried to stop for a month too recently but then a damn reggae show would come thru my town or a new surf vid would show up at my door.

That wave is goin' off above!

Keep strong iriE!

elias, who's the boogie? that's nuts.

Kaiser -- If you shift-reload on that url, does the page update? We moved E's off my DSL line and onto a real host over the weekend and the front page seems to be caching.

almost forgot.. a huge shout out to MWSF for consistently, modestly, radically hooking up the back-end for this site over the years. MWSF is the man!

holy crapitola that wave is big..

http://www.cisurfboards.com/vid_bobby1.asp

good little videos..taking hiatisus is good, good one on you e..im due myself may have aquired some sort of dependency over the holidays..

some times you might need to detox,
it can help with your rhyme flow and your beat box.
-some guy on a madvillain cd

i DO NOT think that is a booger....
looked at the clips in photoshop...zoomed in
and i think he is standing...

regardless that drop is just out of HAND...

good on ya'll for getting wet kaiser and e
i am still afeared of the brown trout at poo point.

yeah re: pulling toobs as opposed to pulling into
tubes....after work i HAD to have one yesterday...
just to numb the brain or kick it outta work mode...
so hard to say no more like now for me....

pimp and other tokers..

yeah.. i just decided to see if i could go a month without the hibbage (ganja). It's been interesting. I feel slighly more acute/sharp/quick. But i'm not sure if it's psychosomatic or real. I miss getting stoned and jamming face after work. that's for sure. I no longer can blame my fatique/laziness/procrastination/etc. on the weed. It's cool to be able to read late-night.

To be honest, though, i really don't feel a huge difference in my disposition or mental acuity.

This is the longest i've gone in 12 years. It's taught me that i truly love the ganja and i'll probably continue smoking the rest of my life.

word.

MWSF, the shift-reload didn't do anything for caching at all. The page displayed is still yesterday's report. I didn't have the issue yesterday or any other day since you migrated over to the new set up. Not sure why it occured today.

J pinged me about the board E rode today and I thought he was telepathic or something....well...we know that is not the case.

that is a serious pit sequence, and I don't mean armpits

Bruce... Nice front page shot on SurfPulse!!

test

E, I keep running into town in the water, he's around.

E, I keep running into tom in the water, he's around.

The boys in Portugal getting into the tow-in scene.

In the last 25 years, I have gone long periods of daily or more than daily to extended fasting periods. In my experience, you don't really notice a big change until a few weeks after stopping. Of course this is dependent on the level of imbibement prior to stopping.

Shortly after the passing of my Mother 10 years ago, I went from heavy smoking to cold turkey, and I actually had some weird spells of physical symptoms like excelerated heart beat (almost like I was on speed when I hadn't even had a coke or coffee or anything). Also some big depression dips.

After "quitting" several times, I now look at how much I consume in terms of purchases.

Of course, it is always easier to fast when you haven't purchased.

e, props to you on the detox. it's good to do. i dropped the get home from work take a rip routine on the new year. bad legacy from watching ma and pa hit the scotch and vino every night. dropped the almost nightly brew too. but like you, i enjoy it and will continue to do so in a more responsible manner.

have you noticed an improvement in your surfing, a little quicker response perhaps, more aggro?

one things for sure. next time you light it up. you'll be giggly irie like you haven't been in awhile. and that's a good thing!

s.s. an envelope is on it's way to you. sorry bout the delay. i have an envelope phobia.

Good catch, Mexi. I ran into Joe Hill when he got out of the water and gave him a disk later on. It was actually an eight-shot sequence so he was pretty stoked. Dropped one off to Aqua last night for Alex Shafer-Czech. He won the killer sponge barrel award for the week. Just before the moment of truth.

world champ

lisa anderson

abubu

yeah. that is a pretty loony pic sequence.
a friend of my friend took them. somehow they ended in my mail box. they then went to a friend. thenn...
pics spread like wildfire.
props to m.m. for taking them and hope that you aren't too bummed that they got up(if you read this). it is seriously a awesome sequence.
stoke for days.

hope everyone else is having a awesome time doing surfboard riding. i've been dry for over a month now. YEUUCK.

trying to get more productive and not read this blog 3-4 times a day. trying to cut down to 1 or 2.

ok. grind on.
peace to the peeps.

Kaiser and E, how do you guys like the retro Doc? could you tell us more about it. i.e. 3 fins or 1, tail, what kinda rides and waves is it most suitable for... ?

i like that last pic, seth! shimmery.

Well, shoutout back, e! And 3 to 5, no worries about the 'lope. Haven't checked mail anyway.

The sun is at least temporarily back at OB. Some clouds lurking in various corners. Maybe good for bumbly kiting. If it was spring or summer desperado time, it could be one of the nicer surf days. Ha.

Not much for imbibing, but a few months back on a lark tested a hookah pipe. I think I ended up kinda recreating part of a scene from "Zoolander."

Beware the Hookah!

Wannabe, honestly, I haven't ridden it yet! E took it out today so he has a better perspective. I should have more info. next week once I get a chance to ride it a few times.

From fondling it, the board is much different then the CI Single Fin. It appears to have a midpoint pretty far forward and much more tapered from the midpoint to the tail then the CI. The tail area is pretty narrow actually. I was really surprised by that. The board is a 2+1 setup with a large single fin box. From what I can tell, it looks like it would love some rampy point-break style waves. There is also more flip in the nose compared to the CI and, overall, there is less volume as well. CK owns a CI which is the same length. From what I recall in riding that board, the Doc and CI are similar in the rounded tail, the single fin, flatter deck and the resin tint only. Otherwise, they seem pretty distant. But, I have yet to ride it to tell you how it compares in that forum.

While on a flight last night, I was thinking about the whole balance thing that I love so much about surfing. Its the same sort of thing in skating and boarding except that in surfing, you are being rocked in all sorts of directions when dropping in on a wave. I concluded that standing up in the middle of the asile, while the plane is landing would be most similar to the sensation felt when dropping into a DOH wave (bumping back and forth and downward g-force). Standing up on takeoff would be more akin to big air jumping on skis. Anyone ever stood up on take off or landing?

The best part about detox is the gnarly dreams.

Shout out back to you, e...and all you other charging chargers who charge on chargable charge days!
Remember, "The charger who is charging the most charging chargable to his best charging abilities is the most chargable charger"... the best advice my mother ever gave me. She doesn't chage though...she knits sock puppets.

i'm telepathetic. college football season, i'm the fat pathetic guy in front of the tele.

Bruce pic up on Surfline's article about soooper January waves.

Niceness!!!

Being the previous owner of the Doc 2+1 Retro, my thoughts: Sweet board, works great, catches waves really easy. Surf it on a big swell like second half of this week at a SC point break will make you feel like a hero.
Recently the surf's been so good locally that I've been riding a regular 6'6 squash and 7'0 pin and feeling good about it. Sometimes you don't want to change things up until waves get funky and you need novelty. I just wasn't using the Doc enough to justify keeping it. Enjoy.

sweet Bruce! thats a great one, is that b-stah?

another good one in that article:

Life gets me high, not weed. I wont hassle you if you don't hassle me. Can I just be free to be myself - a guy who gets high without weed?

Sick, sick sequence.

green waves. green herb. green eyes.

all the best things are green.

well, and maybe pink..

that shit makes me...

i prefer lots of...

id rather drink real poison than any kind of weak ass alcohol.

Funny how herb affects different people. I had a buddy that would get his g-station on and get lost within a block of his house. No joke.

Me, I just eat. Straight eat. Donuts, OJ, etc. Usually have to stop by Safeway on my way home for the pre-planned herbal session. Hostess Donettes, chocolate flavor, and some OJ, not from concentrate. SOLID!

the weed motivates me and gives me energy. hour-long jams turn into 3-hour marathons.

i remember a crisp clear morning in Central america. puffed a huge phatty with JOC in the pre-dawn darkness, then jogged down to the reef-break. Nobody around. First ones out as it's still dark. Phospherescence (sp?) on the sand under our footsteps. super amping.. so psyched. glassy water lapping on the bottom of the board while paddling out. See a set come in and peel along. Amping!

i really enjoy the act of puffing, the session itself. even the anticipation of the session!

sweet re-cap e. one of these days we'll session.

real poison? not fake poison??? wow that's hardcore.

i like weed but i like me some beer too!
i like fake poison too!

bass is tasty

and for hot days

i cant wait for hot days

im not a drinker, simple as that..

weed is all i need.

anyone out there smoke herb and are christian/read the bible/pray regularly..

my bros hardcore into religion, and while i guess it works for him since he seems to be doing well,, sometimes i just wanna hand a J and say, smoke this, then read your bible, see what happends..

weed + bible =

My preferred poison:

my preferred poison

however, in a pinch i'll take a brew or three (my self imposed limit this year is 3, except on 'special occasions' - as defined by me)

Keep smokin E. Quitting the ganja for "detox" sake is just some deep guilt surfacing because of some percieved failure in your life. Get over it. Smoke it. Get over the fact that your perception will be heightened or your energy more focused. If you find that these changes actually occur, your problem is not smokin' weed. Your problem is just smokin' TOO much weed. You are great at good vibin' and keeping us all balanced in some way or another but the no ganja approach doesn't fly. Be yourself and love it. Never deny yourself something that you love unless it is totally destructive to your health. Based on your regular activities I don't think the ganja is very destructive to your vibe/life.
peace.

PS. The weird dreams are pretty rad though.

nice sf!! thanks.

yeah.. i've had some wacky dreams. not all of them enjoyable.

beer, women, and weed. mmmmmmm. Is the weekend here yet!?

Niceness people. Scientists, engineers, managers, executives, contractors, sales pros, artists, shapers, and maybe some trust fund babies (shit, I want that gig).

Big wave hounds, old farts who paddle out in pretty big surf when the average surfers are scared, wimps like me who love head-high waves, groms who charge the inside growlers and survive the beating, photogs taking organic shots.

Arguments about localism and naming spots, discussions about long boards, short boards, fish, eggs, thrusters, etc., shark sightings, which wetsuit is best, and what to do with that damned car key.

Turned 49 today and feeling nostalgic. Pretty fun blog. Thanks E.

Bruce, you are exactly 10 years older than my wifey. I guess the weed was on my mind as I almost forgot.

When I quit cold turkey that time, I had some really vivid dreams as well. I feel like weed does suppress your dreams somewhat. Of course, I was dreaming about my parents and wanting to write it all down because I thought it would help me get through it all, so that might have magnified their importance.

I have an interesting quote about weed posted in my cubicle at work. I will try to remember and transcribe it here tomorrow.

that sequence is of a stand up surfer, not a sponger. Stand up barrel on the backhand from this past January. Know this.

i have no desire to get out of bed today. ugh.

Happy belated B-day Bruce and the shot on SL and SP is one of the best action Big-wave shots of that secrest spot in Socal I have seen. Nice capture.

Did the DP check of all points in Eastside and Westside SC and found the surf quality lacking. Grabbed a muffin and an OJ and headed home.