E's Surf Report

E... a couple other great things about surfing: hanging five or tens, a post session pacifico. Bad things: nipple rash b/c you have not surfed for a while, dropping your "only" fin screw down a drain pipe

What about the inner thigh rash cause you never trunk it in Norcal?

wait, surfing poorly is a shitty thing about surfing???? that's the only way i surf and i think it's a great thing.

bagel has a couple good/bads for the list. a few more...
goods: dry hair paddle out, surfing in trunks, watching the ocean reflect the colors of the sun set, giving a wave

bads: roof rack breaking and losing your board, nasal drip while you're talking to that cute girl you've been digging for awhile, giving a wave

Other Great things:

Nose draining on your girl during a post session rootdown.

Is the beach doable now?

Bruce, Happy Birthday my friend! Enjoy this one cause you got the big leap coming next year!!!!

Happy Birthday Amigo

Surf dreams can go in either category, good or bad. They've all come true [ with exception to surfing a river over a parking lot...? ] Prefer the skilled dreams, but the funniest are the bad ones. Dreamed once about paddling out in front of my place, scratching desperately over a 7fter, failing, and kooking over the falls. 'Lo, with blakestah as my witness this fate came to be, multiple times woe to me. Wednesday had an incredibly accurate dream about paddling endlessly into head highish and getting skunked. Wave after wave and whitewater and goofed duckdives and everything. Turned back and as a guy cruised past me going out I realized I was in one of those rips. More endless paddling. Stepped onto shore, instantly woke because my dog was throwing up. Glorious! A little less realism, please. Happy surf dreams, etc...

oh man...the inner thigh rash....having flashbacks....ouch.

i had a dream i was bassfishing when my alarm woke me from it. i wonder if it's because i saw napolean dynamite recently? "i caught you a delicious bass"

habby b-day bruce!

j - yeah.. i guess i surf poorly too and it's still way fun.. what i meant above was "surf poorly in relation to how you usually surf"

I always surf shitty compared to the rippers.. but compared to me sometimes i rip and sometimes i suck. the sucking compared to me is what sucks.. clear as mud?

HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRUCE....

never would'a thunk you were a day over 40
and you have the stoke of a gremmie.

thanks for sharing that stoke too.

good things about surfing>
warm water
trunks
bikinis on the beach
the friends you make
seeing a stranger catch a good one
seeing a friend cathc a good one
catching a good one
friends seeing you catch a good one

bad >
wax in your belly hair
raw nips
sinus infections and dirty water

clear as mud e.

beach looked pretty marginally do-able this morning. Didn't pull the trigger, watched one lonely guy pull out his 6'6" Merrick and give it a go....left him after about 20 minutes, wonder if he made it, mebbe 10% chance.

2 more for the lists:

+
low-lying mist hovering low over the coast when a big swell is hitting

-
dirty foam-scum - especially if inhaled post-duckdive

and happy bday bruce!

rollerblader wipeout

Dare I say that our beach felt like a smaller version of OB today. Close interval, chunky swell made the paddle out lonnnng this morning. So tiring.

I love:
a great reggae tune blasting in my car as i am suiting up
running down to the edge of the ocean amping
seeing a buddy already out there (with my lazy friends it doesn't happen often)
seagulls wind surfing the waves and making sections you wish you could

i hate:
knowing a heavy commute is coming at the end of my session
tools yappin' loudly out in the water about whatever
being lazy and not travelling around to other breaks.

Best show around for 5$!!

“It was a theory of mine that former cannibals of Oceania now feasted on Spam because Spam came the nearest to approximating the porky taste of human flesh. ‘Long pig’ as they called a cooked human being in much of Melanesia. It was a fact that the people-eaters of the Pacific had all evolved, or perhaps degenerated, into Spam-eaters. And in the absence of Spam they settled for corned beef, which also had a corpsy flavor.”

-Paul Theroux, The Happy Isles of Oceania

(found in the latest Surfer's Path)

this is not a fugazi t-shirt

I just found out some sushi kooks have been naming my local spot on the internet:

www.chowhound.com/california/boards/sanfrancisco4/messages/7387.html

WTF, is nothing sacred!?!

dorky, but the cat can play

Ditto on the Bruce shoutouts.

Love:
- the first steps into the water
- digging hard to juuuuust make it over the incoming wave and finding a glassy paddling lull beyond
- some quiet, contemplative time sitting on the board looking out to sea (but not too much)
- the gathering excitement as the wave looms in the distance
- the moment when you realize you've caught it
- an already fun wave throwing in an extra bonus section

[I got a "distributed sender blackhole list" error screen trying to post this, so I rebooted my router to try to get a new IP address. Let's see...]

happy b day bruce. Its gets better as it gets older!

- seeing your buddy tuck into a barrel while you are on the shoulder
- pulling off something you did not think you were gonna pull off
- new gear
- when other folks see you blast it off the top (hey, c'mon, you know you like that)
- a ocean view parking spot on a crowded day
- seeing some random dude in the water and talking with him over several years during multiple sessions but NEVER seeing him on dry land
- Pulling up to a few certain spots that are breaking and only seeing a few guys out and wondering where the hell everyone is and then realizing "who cares!"
- making it out quick when you thought it was going to be a hassel

Eric, I am local as well. That is f'd up.

Thanks, all. Next year will be the big 5-0. Viagra and Metamucil cocktails on me!

Eric/Kaiser -- So is H***-k* the D*****n's of sushi? I'm more into the Steamer Lane of sushi: E***u.

***** ***** ** **** ***** *** **** **** ***** **** ****** ** *** **** ******* *** ****
(I've fully-encoded my surf report to respect the locals)

Dano, CLASSIC!

- the feeling you get after stripping the old wax and applying new wax before a session

Just got back from CR late last night. What's happened in the last 2 weeks of surf?

This was my first time trunking it for an extended period of time (only surfed a few days in Hawaii before). The inner thigh rash was a surprise. Does it go away if you trunk regularly or does it always happen? Other new discoveries from warm water gear is the slightly bruised ribs (probably cause I'm skinny) and a big bruise on my back knee (duck diving and popping up?) Anyway, not complaining one bit, just new things I'm wondering if I have in common with others.

Trip was awesome, spent some time inland as well as on the coast. Weather was actually cold in San Jose (low 60's) with rain. Locals freezing ("Crees que hace mucho frio tambien?") Playa Guiones was actually crowded on a weekend, like a weekday in Pacifica, but empty on weekdays. That place is developing fast (too fast) but not as bad as Tamarindo, which is having clean water problems. Surfed many places, river crossings, dirt roads, potholes the size of a person. Saw lava flows, monkeys, boa. HEAVY offshore winds, like nothing I've seen before. Locals said it was due to the east coast storms. Winds blowing 20-30 kts offshore, chop running UP the face, peaks standing up for 10 yds before breaking. I got a lot of waves and improved really quickly. Worked mostly on trying to get backside turns as quick as frontside.

The best part besides surfing was just talking to people, improving Spanish, and having no contact with the outside world. No newspapers, no phone, no internet. I don't think anything huge happened while I was gone and I DON'T CARE if it did!

If there is someone you want to get to know... show em the toe.. HA

goods: camping on the beach and waking up the next morning to glassy waves

bads: camping on the beach and waking up the next morning to rain

Ha ha ha Mwsf classic analogy

should've gotten this instead of my amp! i fucked up.
68 bassman head

or this
66 Pro Reverb

goods:
barreles
long floaters
post session food and everything else
going fast
rebounding whitewater while going fast
going on surf trips
chicks dig it
mellow demeanors
wet hair
curren
occy
scoring
surfing with friends
friends seeing your good ride
seeing your friends good ride
hoots from/to strangers
seeing people kill it
being in ocean
perfect waves till dark

bads
egos
ear infections
smelling like pee
cold wet wesuits
only caring/thinking about surfing
crowds
getting skunked
working

t#**a is the best spot in town..

happy birthday Bruce! nice one!

bagel knows chewy!

and indiana jones!

sick!

this is the video game that Bagel's been helping to design

Not that it was really any good today, but it's one THICK swell. Constant lines to the horizon... some power out there too.

cowells

Any Indo board fans out thier? Thinking about picking one up for down days and the grom.
I used a bongo board when i was a grom. I'm wondering if the nice roller and board set-up really matter 50 - 100 bucks more than the old skool bongo board version.

Everything in surfing is good. Only people make it bad.

3to5, I have just been using my grom and a board. 1) Lay your grom down and roll in a blanket. 2) Get a board, position 50/50 over the center point of the grom. 3) rock back and forth.

HA! My wife would love that.

ha thanks thanks dudes dont know if i could take that much credit for designing but a few things..yar

I was doing that. But now the grom wants me to lay on the floor for her turns. HA.

That sushi review was the single most pretentious thing I have ever read. He needs wasabi smeared into his eyeballs.

What?

I was referring to the guy who posted in the chowhound link.

Decided today was the day to try my luck at a paddle out at Mavericks. Going from the forecast this morning, it sounded pretty good and not too big... so I was thinking there was a good chance I might not drown.

After a quiet drive down on my own with a somewhat dry mouth, as I got out the car in the parking lot the full force of the wind became apparent, it was absolutely howling like mad.

The waves looked OK from a distance, but the paddle through whitewater and the general junk on the water would have made it impossible..and of course no one was out.

Not sure my first attempt at mavericks should have been undertaken in gale force winds with no one else out, might not be the most sensible thing to do.

Check out the pics, that photo of the right has to be at least 25 feet. Hard to get the scale without any lunatic on it!

Next time...

Check out the dark and stormy paddle out - looked like the north sea...

A bunch of people windsurfing in Pillar Point harbor - not usually a good sign...

I am back...

Kaiser, you are a pig. That woman could kick your skinny-new-father-sleep-deprived-butt in a minute!

HA! Let's see how our blog friend does over the next few weeks. I've seen many strong guys turned into tofu by a baby. Go Superman!

3to5- I'm not sure anything in surfing is good if you don't have a friend to share it with. Would the perfect wave be perfect with no one to see it?

USE ME FOR INNER THIGH RASH

Sushi Secret: Original Joes.
Served with side of Sf Sourdough.
Stay away from that hell hole in Cole, that bastard will spit and s*&t in yer sushi without the inner-contact.
Next up...revealing that lttle sushi place on upper Balboa. 3 half tables and sushi bar for 4!

I'm not definitely saying the sushi ethics are exactly parallel to surfing ethics, but my reaction to the chowhound guy was pretty similar to R3Ws. If the guy was as down with the program as he claimed in his post he would have known better.

Kaiser, you may need to put the donuts aside for a little while and help regulate the line up at H***-K*. By the way, how's that drive out Lincoln for you at 6 am? Ever wish there were fewer stop signs out in the 30s/ 40s? I am king of the rolling stop.

you guys forgot, kaiser had a SON (thank you God). thuuuusss, cole actually helps pick out the pictures based on 'food holding potential'.

j, over the self imposed 3 drink max tonight.

3to5: Indo Boards rule. You won't regret the purchase.

Keep pimpin'

thats my spot sushi grommet(i think)...dont miss the pan fried little green peppers..and spicy tuna

3to5,

Build an indo board yourself and save $100. Go to home depot and buy a foot of 12" diameter PVC and a hardwood planks (not plywood). You can either finish the wood or glue some neoprene on top. Voila, Indo board.