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beautiful power

Thick tendrils of cordoroy
spitting, mammoth, barrelling funnels
Nobody around
Sucky, erupting convulsions
Offshores howling.
Drove the coast.
Finally found a spot.
Got man-handled by the currents
1 ride
Late for work
Backdoor lives in Nor-Cal.. right under our noses
GWC going bananas off the north-wall. hell-charger central.
Swell cranking and pumping.
Gorgeous, warm, clear sunny day at the beach.
Beautiful California vibrations.
Find your scene.

shout out to Heff in Oregon! Bandon surf head.

Crazy movie 'bout GG jumpers.

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=676&e=3&u=/usatoday/20050131/ts_usatoday/suicidestarnishthegoldengate

Congrats E on your month of not being iriE.

Posted by: Hb at February 1, 2005 10:16 AM

thanks hb.. i'm a bit nervous about puffing again.. thinking about doing it tonight.. skate and bass-guitar session.

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 10:20 AM

Drove around trying to find my scene this morning. Hit up the normal beach locales. Warm morning in comparison to the most recent month or 2. Sun out, nice sunrise, winds offshore, cordiroy almost to the horizon. Drove the length once, turned around, did it again....Nothing for me.

Finally, I found my scene! It ended up being a sausage McMuffin w/ cheese, hashbrown and a cup of joe! SOLID! I killed it before I got to work. No surf, 1 cup of grease, sweet.....

Posted by: Kaiser at February 1, 2005 10:26 AM

Left behind in the north OB lot this morning: your boogie board. Give me a shout on this blog with your phone number and I'll call you back to verify details and arrange the exchange.

Whoo hoo big and frickin rippin current combining with a left-only scenario. Caught one then back in at the Kelly's wash cycle. A good day to start at Sloat and watch for peaks.

Posted by: banjo at February 1, 2005 10:51 AM

Cherrio Charging Chargers of Chingy Ching Chit Chat (what?). Just got back from an epic charge fest at Todos...
Was it macking?...yes.
Lips-a-cracking?...indeed.
Was I sacking?...of course.
Were the locals packing?...only AK's.
Am I stoked?...yes, but with a boner.
To be brutally honest, it was truly epileptic out there. Mexi just offers up so many treats. One backside nose ride just kept peeling and reeling...I was juiced...but she was uber-juiced 'cause I snap turned the closeout and unleashed a cluster-bomb of slimy spray.
After charging Todos for a few, I charged Eastward and met up with Biggie and Tupac for a free-form funfest flow-down in their underground lair, appropriately named "Tweedle Deez". Hit 'em with my lastest track "Chiggidy Charge Yo Self" that left the thugstas speechless! Here's a taste...
There ain't no stoppin, the flows that I be droppin,
I'm from Oaktown and not from Compton,
So listen up kids to Professor Charge,
I'll learn you something sexy like that blue-haired betty Marge.
My Rhymes ain't gross like cold french toast,
I'm leavin now, cause there's some bud I need to roast.
So peace out Holmes, don't walk with a limp,
And say it once more, "Mav's Charging Charger's a pimp."

Sucka Fresh?...no doubt. CHARGE!!!

Posted by: Mavs Charging Charger at February 1, 2005 11:15 AM

going clean is kinda refreshing...sometimes.....i only toke about once a week, compared to literally all day every day in highschool and sh*t...dope ass picture you posted today..

Posted by: seth s. at February 1, 2005 11:22 AM

Costa Rica....
Anyone have any betta on places to stay w/ both surf and rainforest access. Planning a trip in March with the lady and she wont surf so need to keep her happy and the rainforest will do that. I have never been to CR so any info helps. Thanks!

Posted by: mjs at February 1, 2005 11:24 AM

Good thing about not toking for awhile is that it only takes 1 hit to take the edge off the day. I was a chain smoker a long long time ago. What was I thinking? Well, not much I suppose.

Posted by: Dennis at February 1, 2005 11:35 AM

from blakestah - "The early cherry blossoms are telling us spring is just around the corner."

SHIT alergies AND shitty Olas...

Posted by: phil at February 1, 2005 11:41 AM

Posted by: desert succulence at February 1, 2005 12:36 PM

Congrats to the guys who made it out this morning near the showers. News at 10:00. . . er a few photos.

Posted by: Bruce at February 1, 2005 12:38 PM

Hey mjs,
lookup jon at the hotel nosara...nice point break below the place, and he is more that willing to escort you to the lineup in the morning then fly back up the trail to entetain your lady friend while you surf

Posted by: snake at February 1, 2005 12:54 PM

mjs: in cr there is a place called manuel antonio - long beach break with ok surf and a cool national park right at the end of the beach. not exactly rain forest but cool jungle. the country is small enough though that if you are willing to travel around a bit you could hit some of the better surf spots for a few days and then head to the main inland rainforest spot for a few days.

Posted by: costa rica spot-namer at February 1, 2005 12:57 PM

Many thanks!!

Posted by: mjs at February 1, 2005 01:02 PM

jeremy fish

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 01:09 PM

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 01:29 PM

Posted by: at February 1, 2005 01:37 PM

e-

most recent harpers magazine reports a statistically greater likelyhood of psychotic episodes later in life for those who smoke pot regularly as youngsters. I stopped years (decade +) ago and a couple of times a year is plenty now. though with no pot there is nothing to blame but overwork and lack of care for this two week long debilitating cold i've had. the tropics pics look real nice....

Posted by: goodmorning at February 1, 2005 02:34 PM

Callahan rules!!

Posted by: Mexi at February 1, 2005 02:35 PM

The Examiner stated that Marijuana is luring white women into the hands of dirty drugy Mexicans.... Scarey

Posted by: Mexi at February 1, 2005 02:37 PM

The Hb stated that the marijuana made those moon-lit, curvy, smooth hills come alive last night on his skate.

Posted by: Hb at February 1, 2005 02:56 PM

Oh no. I hope they didn't get sharkbait. She didn't post today...

Posted by: Dennis at February 1, 2005 03:03 PM

Has anyone surfed since this morning? Is it getting doabler?

Posted by: - at February 1, 2005 03:09 PM

HB.. that's what i'm thinking tonight.. after a little music jamification.. skate!!

psyched!

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 03:22 PM

The SF bouy is at 6.9 feet and 15 seconds. The wind is straight out of the east at 7 knots. The tide starts going out at 4pm and it's a small tide swing so the current might not be too bad. It looks like a surf night on paper. I'm going home right now and hope to get some.

Posted by: Dennis at February 1, 2005 03:33 PM

ohmygawwwdican'twaittosurf
worked through the weekend, 12-14 hour days, project was due today so i finally get a chance to surf manana soooo amped

Posted by: bbr at February 1, 2005 03:34 PM

Against my better judgment and beneath a friggen PERFECT sky, i made the trek to Yoda's local spot. The Jedi did its usual double up refraction and reminded me just how fun the place can be......compared with getting thumped, dragged & pitched at good old OB.And there was this hot chick on a red longboard who burned me on a wave, but she has a great backside style.

Posted by: Worth It at February 1, 2005 03:34 PM

jedi mind tricks!! too much tide early when i attempted to channel the force.. nice work pimpin' it "worth it."

suurrrf!!

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 03:38 PM

I'm here! OB gorgeous, indian -summer look and feel, but siren call to a pounding because despite uncannily nice weather and OH sets as oppposed to constant DOH of this morning, the paddle still looks chock full of fun suprises and the peaks are looking...well, like February. But hey it's a nice day and surf is always doable, isn't it?

Was lured instead yesterday to stuff the shortboard in the car, scream to a longboard spot...and run into another niceness peep. [ sorry I didn't recognize you! ] Great times except I don't dare do that too often, gentle sessions will convince my mind that *that* is normal surfing, as opposed to the Fight Club out in front here. Speaking of which maybe you should censure the OB remarks above, since the first rule of fight club is one doesn't talk about.....ahem...anyway...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at February 1, 2005 03:43 PM

http://www.hawaiianwatershots.com/NEW%20GALLERIES%20TEMPLATE%20DIR/PIPELINE/PIPE%2001-30-2005/index.htm

page 12, sick backdoor barrel... gavn beschen i think?

Posted by: bbr at February 1, 2005 03:59 PM

tectonic flutter
irate macroscope infusion
zorked jankscreen
blurred slurred smear
arkanoid triumvirate.

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 04:00 PM

OK, so this thing was in the Chron sometime in the last 10 years, possibly in Leah Garchic's montage thing that predated her 'column' which is far inferior to her earlier thing (I am typing word for word, so I apologise for typos, and it is not my opinion but someone else's take that I liked):

What it Takes to Make Fine Art

In a survey reported in the latest edition of the artists newsletter studioNOTES, artists were asked about the effect of mind-altering practices (meditation, trance, music, of the like) or substances (alcohol, drugs, tobacco, caffeine or the like) on the creative process.

Repondents wrote about coffee and cigarettes, Zen meditation, vodka, chocolate, psychedelics and in-depth Jungian analysis. One of the most intriguing anecdotes came from a woman who had submitted a batch of drawings to her art teacher at the end of a course.

She was the best draftsman in the class, she wrote, and had sold some of her work to other students.

The teacher looked at the work and asked, "How much marijuana do you smoke?"

"I said a lot. He said he could tell. I was flabbergasted. He pointed out that there was little contrast in much of my work - it was all a bit 'mushy'...That was typical of dopers, he said. They get very inspired and involved in detail but lose the contrast and value. This is also how they see the world."

She thought about it for a few days, she writes, and "never took another drug."

Posted by: friend #1 at February 1, 2005 04:00 PM

heavy thoughts friend #1.

I'd love to read more on that subject.

i'll maybe craft tomorrow's report this evening when i'm all stony and see if people can tell..

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 04:19 PM

do you think Jimi Hendrix lacked contrast and value?

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 04:23 PM

I think Jimmie was doing more than just smoking grass. And like I said, that is not my opinion, but someone else's experience.

When smoking, I tend to get sidetracked easily, so I end up starting a lot of little things and not finishing anything (an exageration somewhat). So then, I guess I have a limited view of the big picture, and rather get inspired to look at the little things. That is in keeping with this anonymous woman's experience.

For me the big thing, is that I had a father that Drank, and I always knew when he had been drinking, though others in my family somehow didn't see it. I bothered me. And now that I have a daughter, I don't want to be that Dad.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 1, 2005 04:37 PM

yeah friend #1. i definitely feel the downsides of the grass. Sometimes the music i play while stoned gets repetitive, or lacks complexity, or something. I'll think it's awesome while playing.. but then i'll listen to the recording the next day and think... ah.. that was shit! But it's fun while i'm playing.

i think the key with the weed is moderation.

If it makes you feel any different, my parents were smoking throughout my whole childhood and i didn't realize until freshman year in college. I had absolutely no idea.

Posted by: e at February 1, 2005 04:43 PM

i found my spot today at the top of rockaway mountain with a pipe and my dog..insane day out there..some charging chargers charging the middle of rockaway pulling into practically unmakable barrels..

Posted by: bagel at February 1, 2005 05:35 PM

wonder what would happen if I paddled out at pipeline with a cell phone..

http://www.hawaiianwatershots.com/NEW%20GALLERIES%20TEMPLATE%20DIR/PIPELINE/PIPE%2001-30-2005/index.htm

Posted by: bagel at February 1, 2005 05:57 PM

Louis Armstrong, after his first set, would go outside and smoke a joint. Just before he started playing his second set, he would say to the audience, "Now I'm ready". He did it on Johhny Carson too.

Posted by: Dennis at February 1, 2005 06:01 PM

I think the key with any substance is moderation, but in art his list of dopers and alcoholics is huge from Hemmingway to hendrix and Jerry Garcia to Kurt Cobain. Is there contrast here...

I took that one in Oregon and you better believe I was altered

Incidentally I confiscated a ring with a pot leaf from a student today, I don't feel like a hipocrate, there is a time and place for all things. Youngsters are high enough already, they don't need any help....

Posted by: mexi at February 1, 2005 06:04 PM

I don't have any bias or opinion on the matter, but I recall an interview (it was either archy or wardo) and he said he would watch the local guys, who would always get blitzed before surfing, and they thought they were killing the waves and progressing, while others sat back and laughed at how sloppy, slow, and lazy they looked. That just reminded me of what e was saying about thinking you're playing great then looking (or listening) later and comparing. I think it depends what you do, and if you care what others think. Think of the many great reggae musicians.. Jah live.

Posted by: Ian at February 1, 2005 06:48 PM

oh man, junk food binge eating right now!! doritos, tropical dots, pizza, i think i'm gonna puke!!

Posted by: j at February 1, 2005 06:48 PM

This could go back and forth all day, Curren and Occy are pretty infamous heads.

Posted by: mexi at February 1, 2005 07:16 PM

Moderation is definitely key. I enjoy a toke, my problem is chosing to do so at the 'right' times, and not the 'wrong' times.

I almost never smoke before surfing, just because I find the high evaporates when it touches cold water. To me, it is a waste of good weed.

I would much rather spark up after I am surfed out, when I am all relaxed anyhow.

Posted by: friend #1 at February 1, 2005 07:19 PM

late chime in... lotta good thoughts on this topic... both positives and negatives are the bottom line as i see it.

i have to vote for smoking before surfing however... take today for example... get amped on the beach with a little bowl, and then jump into the Pacific on a beautiful day with tons of sunshine... that smooth, silky feel of the water... just playing with the ocean, diving, jumping, leaping around. I always liked the Tudor quote about smoking a little pot and having a ton of fun in ankle high slop... and two weeks ago, when I was irie at an outside reef diving under TOH bombs... stoked!

so i often choose a stonier session for the "floating in the universe" factor... but i won't deny being clumsier for having smoked, and having less cardio endurance.

Posted by: j.o.c at February 1, 2005 09:36 PM

video of todays swell in SC..
(about 8-9mgs; 3 minutes)


http://seth.sysum-online.com/feb01_05.wmv

Posted by: seth s. at February 1, 2005 10:31 PM

Nice, Seth.

Keep searchin'

egp

Posted by: EG Pimp at February 2, 2005 06:56 AM

hendrix choked on his own vomit at 30 or so. jerry died way too young too because he couldn't kick it. hemingway blew his brains out with a shotgun. occy has made the miracle comeback but openly admits he totally blew it. i heard, total second hand but reliable source, that curren is known to sit in a little house on the north shore during the season, too boozed to go out and just wasting away drinking alone.

you can't blame all this on weed, it's much more complicated than that as we all know, but are these the examples of users to hold up as proof that it doesn't affect one in a negative way?

my 2cts

Posted by: uh at February 2, 2005 09:40 AM

The argument was if weed was a detriment to artist vision which all the before mentioned were and are brilliant, it is much more complicated than this for sure.

A a teacher I usually smoke on weekends, but when I have a bad teaching day I try and toke and this often help me with new ideas and reflect on what went wrong. I am in no way a daily toker but I see the benefits to altered states.

Posted by: waves are going off right now bumed to be at work... Mex at February 2, 2005 09:48 AM

E, toke and reflect on the lack of killer words you've put togethor in the past month. I miss the flow of those words. Don't let the guilt of the establishment shame you. the worst and most dangerous drugs are the legal ones.

Posted by: Mex at February 2, 2005 09:56 AM
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