E's Surf Report

Morning Update - Beautiful sunrise this morning. Another gorgeous day out at the beach. Swell still isn't quite hitting the bars right but certainly waves to be had.
Quick thoughts from yesterday - I certainly find that smoking improves my photos, music, etc. Also, I have gotten into the routine of smoking before I paddle out into a crowd - it makes things so much more enjoyable because my aggro factor goes out the window.
I almost cried last night with all this talk of spring. Lets hope we have at least a few more clean swells left. Is it time to start thinking about surf trips?
Has anyone lived on the south shore of Oahu during the summer? If so, any advice on where i should be looking for housing - somewhere within walking distance to numerous surf spots.

After early this morning I think I know how the grass feels when it's getting mowed. Oof!

somewhat frustrating morning... i couldn't line up any of the hollower set waves, i was always either too deep to make the section or the wave mushed out. after pulling out of one, i turned around and saw a big one barrel all the way from outside to inside, spitting twice. it was the best wave i saw all day.

Hey,
Did anyone see the frickin whale jumping out of the water this morning?!? On my way out the door this morning, I glanced out of the window in the apartment hallway and saw a big splash. Could it be a whale, I thought? no, probably not. I went to the roof and saw this small whale breaching/jumping out of the water like 5 times! wow! I saw this between lincoln and judah, about 8:15am this morning. It's funny cuz my wife has lived in CA her whole life and never saw a whale (here in cali at least, we saw them in Hawaii). We were so excited and it really was a great start to our day. The whale was very close to the lineup...outer sandbar. It would be frightening to be in the water near sucha large animal.
Cheers,
-a

I salute all the dawn patrol people and work-at-homies who find time to surf today. I'm at work and, man, is it hard, knowing full well that the beach is sunny and offering tasty waves. OB looked so sweet this a.m. with the magnificent sunrise and the unending swells. Catch one for spirit's sake. (Sorry to sound like a hippy.)

Remember that last qoute is not from my mouth.

Pulled up and dressed without looking (already talked to Doof on the way back from the Dog walk).

Ran over to some pot-head and asked him what he was waiting for.

Paddled out and came apon Doof in the pit after the first line of shorepound. Angled around and south of him.

As I start duckdiving through the outside, I see the bottom of Blakestah's Hickey flying infront of the curl riderless on a big Left.

After a good bit of work, I make it out to a long line of people paddling North to fight the current.

Watch fine rides by red bodyboarder, Orange- railed Longboarder Kdalle, along with the others.

Best ride for me was a right I was fully set up on with only Kdalle near me, and he was on his paddle back out, so I could calmly get to the spot and drop down a nice big wall and see it stacked up before me.

Waves started to get harder to get, but one comes and Doof and I split the peak. My left is a long one and I ride it in.

Oops, Orange railed Longboarder and Kdalle are two different people. Both elders with big boards, capable enough to catch every good wave that comes through. But two distinct surfers.

yeah i saw some longboarder do the double-arm "butterfly" paddle and drop in really deep on a bigger one

I havent posted a nice shot in a while. Here is some stoke for all you cube dwellers. it was nice out there today.

I am in sync with OB Rat & j.o.c. on vitamin G & surf. The G seems to make me less hesitant on late drops too - perhaps a function of wave-hungry focus being more intent? But too much makes paddling feel painfully sluggish.

Speaking of sluggish, the tide & the rips made it hard to stay in position on the south end this morning, went in after only riding 2 waves, alas.

"Never at dusk"

Ha, funny that Friend #1 saw the Hickey laying face down. Must have been from Blakestah's "turtle roll" I saw him attempt as a wave unloaded on him.

B-Stah, I have to ask, why turtle? Sack it and duck dive that bitch!!! Sometimes you make, sometimes you don't.

Anyway, in the 50 minutes or so I was out this a.m., there were a total of 4 waves that came to me that I could have caught. 2 were taken by other surfers, 1 I ate shizz on trying to make a late drop towards the shoulder, and one I nailed but it shut down left and then shut down right. Basically, the funk was in full effect. Maybe too much water from the tide, maybe the bars weren't right....I dunno.....Let's hope we get a few sweet days out of the remaining swell. It was a beautiful morning to paddle out though. Sweet weather, bigger swell, just really mellow!

And it did feel like Lindy out there. More riders then rideable waves.

Props once again to the boogers out there, they seemed to get the best rides yet again......Surfers, stand up!!!!!!

Forgot I was riding the single. Made the drop, frontside, ready to wail on a big frontside rail turn, forgot my rail fin, popped the center fin out, board slid out, I fell on my butt. Very very unelegant. To make it worse that was the best wave I dropped into today. Just a few other closeouts...

Yeah, that's it!

STUCK, was my word for last night. I left work at 3:30 to get some waves only to get STUCK on MUNI. It took me an hour and 20 minutes to get home from work. Got out in the water a little after 5 and got STUCK in the inside. Finally gave up cuz the sun was getting low in the sky and rode a reform for about 50 feet. Anyway, I ran into Alex and gave him a board to fix cuz one of my other boards fin STUCK into the bottom of it in the garage. Still, it was worth it to padle out.

I'm taking a meteorology class at SFSU this semester. My professor used to work for the CIA helping design satellites that can see through clouds and fog. There are a couple other surfers in the class too. We had to stand up and say why we took the class called Violent Atmosphere and Oceans. One dude dressed in black and looking pseudo-punky and like he ate way too many doughnuts said he would take any class that has "violent" in the title. The line didn't fly and he sat down looking kind of embarressed. He-he. That was funny.

Photo from sunrise yesterday morning. Light sorta' sucked but there are a few more on the site.

Was I the only person who didn't know that Judith was competing at Pipeline? (From Surfline message board.)

Awesome conditions all day long at Pipeline for the Patagonia Pipeline Bodysurfing Contest 2005.

15 to 20 feet (faces), light offshore winds and sunny skies made perfect conditions for the stoke bodysurfers at Pipeline all day long today. The surprise of the day was formed North Shore lifeguard Todd Sells breaking the hegemony of the Mike Stewart/Mark Cunningham taking his first place.

The attendance for this year event was the highest ever with 48 competitors from all over the world showing up for the contest with a 15 people alternated list just wishing they could be in.

It is worth to mention the good performance of female competitor Judith Sheridan, USA
advancing the first round with one of the highest waves score of the day.

No Bruce. You were not alone. Judith does not talk much about the stuff she does. Unlike myself, her performance does the talking.

Is it too early?

Well, sorry if it is.

Pink is nice.

9 to 11 mid-beach. Looonnnng paddles, several caught-inside beatings, a lot of missed waves, one very steep drop, didn't make the bottom turn. As the tide dropped the shore pound got pretty gnarly. Fun!! But I'd like to do some surfing sometime soon...

Nice one Bruce!

Even nicer one Kaiser! pink..ahhhh

Fun waves down here in Monterey County this AM. Lined up lefts, perfect for the fishie, sunshine, only my friend and I, and about 15 waves.

weed makes me feel like a strait up paranoid idiot. Everyone says how it opens their mind and whatnot, i feel like my mind completley shuts down. Only thing i can think about is food. haha. got nothing against it, just not for me. Beer please.

i'm headed to this on friday.. B-boy/B-girl breakin jam at the great american with Brain, House and other sick musicians throwing down live break beats. should be cool.

this ones awesome bruce! freebird style. i love heat waves in february.

some of the old greyboy allstars crew are playing with 20th congress members this weekend at boom boom room. motherlode should be funkin good (especially for the puffers)

surfy surf
sunny sun
ditching responsibilites can be so fun

Just wanted to add my (late) 2-cents to the weed debate. I smoked the herb every day all the way through high school, college and grad school, earning a doctorate in the top 10% of my class at a top U.C. school. I wasn't a genius to begin with, so clearly the herb didn't fuck up my mental capacity. Does make me puss out on big drops sometimes when surfing, though. Other times it gets me in a groove and I surf/snowboard/mountain bike as good or better than ever. Just my thoughts.

I missed the weed commentary yesterday. So, here is what I got to add to the survey results:

Weed - yes
Weed before surf - only when it is small and sunny
Weed after surf - anytime
Beer before surf - never
Beer after surf - anytime
Food after weed - please
What type of food - any, preference to hostess donettes and OJ

I really don't like doing any physical activity on weed. It has to do with physiological performance. But, I like to him the herb before a nice sunny, small session.

One of the first times I surfed stoney I busted my eardrum. Nuff said.....

For those of you who perhaps thought "if only I had time to drive South, the waves there would be better," you would have been wrong both yesterday and today. I hit a well known spot north of SC yesterday a.m. and it was lumpy, dumpy, and frumpy. Big waves, but lots of closeouts and few good rides.

Today, Eastside SC small and bumpy, so I drove to the same North SCC spot as yesterday. Smaller than yesterday, with occasional overhead set waves, but the sloppy chop was still in effect. Spent about 40 minutes getting sloshed around, with one good wave where I could have smacked the lip if only my reaction time was a hair quicker. Instead, it was the lip who smacked me, right in the chest and into the washing machine.

Anyway, it was good to be in the water with all the little sea creatures and whatnot.

ohmigod...1, 2...ohmigod....

and a holy shit for good measure...

had a feast at lunch. the buffet
was serving up big helpings for lots of folks.
i am full and back in the classroom...
with a toothpick and some kick ass mental images....

Went back for a lunch helping myself. Fell out the back of two big mackers, went over the falls on too steep a drop four times, two waves where I did everything right. The best ride should have been my last, but then back out for three whipeouts and then one okay one to get in 30 minutes later, Doh!

Oh, and in case your wondering. On the drive in to work after each session. Maybe that's why I am so behind.

Oh, and B-Stah. It was the spin-out that I saw. Funny that it was the indicator of your presense as I thought, "Oooph, that hurt, oh that's B'stah's board."

The head alien, Q-Bert, will be rockin' the Hall too. Nice!!

Great, very interesting, intellectual discussions on weed. Not the same ol' it's you dumb, it's makes you worthless crap. There definitely is a time and place for it.

Enjoy it before a skate MUCH more than a surf (which i very rarely do).

Surfin' is a blast.

Da Beach....

the weed thing...............

sometimes before surfing when it's a play day
never when the waves have consequence
always if i'm skating bowls
never before sex - wife hates the smell
often on boy's night out
never in the bathroom at work
often on long ass bike rides into the coast range
never before going grocery shopping

the weed thing...

as often as possible before musical jams
don't like it in the morning
before a concert is nice
like it before surf. big surf or small.
not before work
campfire puffdowns rule
before a surf flick kicks arse
roadtrips
don't like it with the lady.. unless she wants to
enjoy it before scrabble.. but play better sober
no thanks on sunday night
Don't like it morning after raging
evenings, surf and music go nicely with it.
Like to take more and more days off and then get super-baked. delayed gratification-style.

i'm definitely with you, ob rat. puffing definitely chills me out
when surfing with a crowd... it just makes me much more enthusiastic
and content about the beautiful environment i find myself in, less
focused on only riding waves, and i enjoy the experience of so many of
the other things going on... It makes me amped to surf, but if there
aren't that many waves or if they are poor quality, i am still stoked.
it lets me place a priority on just being in the ocean, which is a
beautiful thing.

whether or not you smoke, it's sweet to have this attitude of enjoying
a swim and riding waves when they come... helps combat the wave lust /
desire that can disrupt your perspective of where you are, what you
are doing, just what is going on... [you are a sack of atoms who have
come together in this infinitely complex system of our bodies to be
alive and see color and hear seals snorting and sometimes move a
billion molecules to stand up on a board and fly along a pulse of
aquatic energy that is still radiating from the big bang... to be...
you ARE.

Glad to hear grown men thoughtfully debate their use of intoxicants. As for me, i just completed a month of weekends only down from the every evening hay huffing before walking the dog...A teacher as well, I find it much easier to follow the convoluted explainations of my kids when not on the bu the night before. I still find it invaluable to decompress and adjust perspectives... some of my best ideas were stoney inspirations, then thought through, and needless to say taught straight. My latest shift is a kid I have been very tough on, Last weekend it occurred to me that he just isn't as able as I had hoped him to be. Now i see what he can do and better help him get to where I want him. While sitting up late, stoned, I realized he is trying really hard but getting frustrated because it was never enough for me. A week on, he is happier and willing to work harder and learning more. i've tried to accomplish this straight edge with meditation, yoga, exercise etc. for years to little effect. I have much more success with jaherb ...and I LIKE IT.

I also, while super baked, I thought of drifting around Australia for a year and learning to surf . That was 12 years ago. it made me who I am ...AND I LIKE IT.

Glad to hear grown men thoughtfully debate their use of intoxicants. As for me, i just completed a month of weekends only down from the every evening hay huffing before walking the dog...A teacher as well, I find it much easier to follow the convoluted explainations of my kids when not on the bu the night before. I still find it invaluable to decompress and adjust perspectives... some of my best ideas were stoney inspirations, then thought through, and needless to say taught straight. My latest shift is a kid I have been very tough on, Last weekend it occurred to me that he just isn't as able as I had hoped him to be. Now i see what he can do and better help him get to where I want him. While sitting up late, stoned, I realized he is trying really hard but getting frustrated because it was never enough for me. A week on, he is happier and willing to work harder and learning more. i've tried to accomplish this straight edge with meditation, yoga, exercise etc. for years to little effect. I have much more success with jaherb ...and I LIKE IT.

I also, while super baked, I thought of drifting around Australia for a year and learning to surf . That was 12 years ago. it made me who I am ...AND I LIKE IT.

Heading to the beach , is it Friday yet?

right on guru! keep it up!

you IS, J.O.C.

nice pics of the beach Kaiser!!

yeah Kaiser, nice pics. when are they from?

I ripped them off of Surfline. Pretty cool shots in case someone can track down the "originator".

Here are some of my organic shots:

Guru, I've had the same experience. I think the herb helps me to get into my students shoes and look at my teaching in their eyes. I am always a better teacher because of it. Look within...

I hope to do the dawn in the AM, I missed today.

definitely... get on it while you can, spring is on the way

Where has BVB been hiding?

BVB is in Germany accepting some kind of award.

haha, crazy to hear the gan-jah love. I stopped because I got too quiet and lazy, and I would spend all my damn time "thinking about myself thinking about ideas" on the couch. I'm sure some of you know what I'm talking about. Anyway, I surfed the beach from 1 to 5. One of the longest sessions for me besides in the Summer. Surprisingly I caught some of my most memorable waves today. Spent A LOT of time paddling South and I'm sick so that doesn't help. Some really good vibes out, heard lots of hoots and I chimed in on a few. Finally got out because the wind shifted. Did anyone see the rippers shralping the south end inside nuggets? Pretty cool to see people making the most of what was on hand.

Here's the bus he's touring in..

so sick, look, this guys rail is barely in the water. Light footed I guess..

dope puts a little happiness in your mind, and in exchange it steals a little happiness in your life without it. It takes at least several months without it to know the truth, and more if you've been using decades.

dude, aint' that the truth, the truth. i've been feeling that lately. so do i have to purge the herb from my life to have happiness without it, and lose the happiness i have with it, or can i keep it in my life if i'm feeling balanced and happy... hmm, hmmmmm, hmmmm.

I very rarely check this site after hours but, damn, the Truth, that is fuckin' deeeeep. Very true, but the exchange is worth it.

And that toobed dude above is s-t-o-k-e-d and that first pic of Kaiser's is beyond amazing.

Check out the new surfline vids......wow.

super late post, but, whatever.

I stopped smoking pre-surf because i couldn't remember my sessions. had a great time, but one hour and seventeen minutes later.... nothin.

anyone else experience this? Same goes for movies, pickup basketball, work, reading, sex, etc.

If there's a remedy somebody preach on, cause pre surf smoke was the chocolate in my peanut butter!

that pic of the dude is ragnar from ocean beach....good surfer (obviously)