weak sauce
blustery, rainy, onshores this morning.
A few corners for those with serious jones.
Pretty ugly.
What will the best surfers be pulling in 50 years?
How will board design advance?
What will the cutting edge waves be like?
100 ft wave?
Will there be any unsurfed waves remaining?
How will global warming effect weather/storms/swell?
I can imagine a photo-trip with Archy's great grandson and Pat Curren's great-great grand daughter up along the Aleutian chain. Island hopping with a sea-plane, surfing one of the last final frontiers as global warming heats Alaskan water temps to a balmy, early-fall 60 degrees. Boards are small, symmetrical, uber-lightweight double-enders, much like modern skateboards, though averaging around 5ft long. Materials are Seaborgium/Titanium composites. 1/4-inch thick hollowed-out shapes. The bonzer fin setup has taken over, each fin using the RFS system. Archy's grandson drops into a suckout, deep-water lava reef death wave on Okmok island. He casually fades deeper and deeper into the bowels, then bottom turns and scoots under the lip into the barrel. He keeps his speed and rides vertically up the wave-face, inside the barrel, and completes an inverted, twisting frontside barrel loop. lands it clean, comes screaming out of the tube and then launches off the heavy lip into a double-grab double-spin-and-a-twist air. Lands it.
the breakdancing jam CJ and i went to on Friday night was off the hook!! Brain, House and some other musicians threw down one classic, funked-out hip-hop cover after another (White Lines, Rapper's Delight, etc.) while the B-boys and B-girls circled up in the middle of the floor and went completely bananas. So many different styles and modes of expression. Pop-and-Lockers, headspinners, massive displays of acrobatic dexterity. So fun to watch. Wish i had a recording of that music too.. Brain rips so hard on drums!! I read somewhere that he's a skater too.. and was in the original Primus until he broke his leg really bad skating. Then he was replaced by Tim Alexander.. but later came back in the band in the late 90s.. or something.. Primus Sucks!
oh.. and thank you Huey for Saturday morning!! Sweet Bejubus! Bagel and i blazed a nice cone of the chriz and then gorged ourselves on 3-hours of head-high, punchy, glassy beach break succulence. Bagel scored barrel time and smacked the lip so hard on his last wave that my cranium is still feeling the vibrations from that massive whack. Scorage.
excerpt from Jamie Brisick's new work
Curren at Rincon (photos by Scott Mills)
brazil
David Choe
i sold my Roger Hinds 9'0 for $320 that I had made for me at WISE. Now i need to find a 10'6 for my big ass...
Check out the newest female God of punk rock at http://www.machinesagenda.com
Posted by: scott at February 7, 2005 10:16 AM
Posted by: machines agenda at February 7, 2005 10:24 AMbooth, brisick and beauty
Posted by: at February 7, 2005 11:03 AMThis weekend was fun. Horray for unexpectedly good waves.
Posted by: joe O at February 7, 2005 11:11 AMthanks e. that was fun, best waves i saw all weekend..good times..
Posted by: bagel at February 7, 2005 11:15 AMSaturday for me: Two seesions, two totally differnt boards. Two completely different experiences makes me wonder where my surfing is going.
I hit the dp at near 7' high tide at the south end. I took my 6'6 for some inside bar action. The waves were junky, funky doubleup, closeout, barrelling mushy shifty waves with a strong sideshore. This is probably my least favorite kind of wave. Some folks love it. I scored 4 waves in an hour and none of them were memorable. All 4 had a steep quick drop. None barreled. One totally mushed out after the drop. Another totally closed out after the drop. Anyway, I didn't expect much before going out.
Later in the am when the tide dropped, the outer bars started to break. From my viewpoint, they looked a bit mushy so I took my 9' board. The wait between sets that would actually break and wall on the outside was a bit long but no too bad. I scored a half dozen really fun rides in an hour and a half. A couple others that mushed out as soon as I stood up.
It got me thinking of the kind of board that suits me best (considering the age factor and conditioning) and the type of waves that I enjoy the most. I noticed I've been thinking about longboarding more often these days. I never really cosidered it til last year. My current 9'er is a hybrid longboard-gun and not a classic longboard.
My favorite waves are 6 to 10 feet waves that break on the outside bars. Not too steep on the takeoff so strong offshores are out. 3 to 5 foot tide works. In fact, a light onshore is ok. Long walls with sections cuz I enjoy down the line speed. Pumping down the line and cutbacks are about all I do anymore. I'm contemplating cuz I turn 52 this month. I know where my life is going so all I need to worry about is where my surfing is going. Sorry for the long babble.
Posted by: Dennis at February 7, 2005 11:18 AMthanks for the read dennis...i had a weekend of board
experiments as well. (thanks kaiser!) and i agree with
joe O...unexpectedly GOOD waves. not great but way
fun....rode my 6'0" fish on saturday. had a ball. did
spin it out once on a choice left but it was a nice
reminder to keep the weight on the front foot—CHARGE!
as e might say.....
sunday borrowed some good medicine from kaiser
and rode the doc lausch....good fun. so different...going
from a board with 50%(?) of the tail of the fish. carvy,
down the line-ness nice glide and quick SHARP turns.
not the loose, pushing the "greenough 100%" of the fish...
and what i was able to figure out....surfing is fun.
if the waves look lame or you are bored, borrow a new
board type, give it a whirl smile....just keep surfing.
dennis—i have schultze 9'0" pin tail longboard...
if you ever want to give it a whirl....very fun very
fast and good to DOH.
cheers ya'll....
Posted by: korewin at February 7, 2005 11:29 AMGot some surf up north after a kickass Modest Mouse show in Santa Barbara. Fun little peaks with not many out.
Don't skate drunk after the Super Bowl. First hard fall in over a year, guess i have been lucky. It's weird and very cool how your body learns to fall on asphalt. 5 years ago i would have gotten seriously hurt but instead i just came away with some dollar sized road rash on my hips and leg. Stoked. Good runs before that happened though. It's a hill where you come around this corner to a steep section and you have to carve hard or speed up depending on what the traffic light is doin' at the bottom of the hill. If it just turned green you are stoked!
Enough of that. What up Korewin and that brEakin' show sounded like a goodie.
Skatin' rules! Surfin' rules! Bands rule!
Posted by: Hb at February 7, 2005 11:39 AMI'll second that Hb! Snowboarding is pretty fun too. I was up losing my ass at hold'em in reno this weekend. Shoulda went boarding instead.
Noise Pop is coming up! Any Fucking Champs fans out there? I'm definitely going to hit this show.
12 Galaxies, SF
Sat, Feb 26
Noise Pop Presents:
Posted by: lerm at February 7, 2005 11:53 AMHigh on Fire
- The Fucking Champs
- Kylesa
- Say Bok Gwai
Tickets $12
9PM
Thanks Korwin. I might take you up on that offer one of these days.
Speaking of music, I went to an international guitar session at the USF auditorium Sat night. Pretty cool. Four guitarists from Scotland, Spain, Brazil, and US. The music was sort of latin jazz on acoustic guitars. The woman guitarist from Brazil was awesome. She played and sang and did some sort of scat-clicking-popping sounds in dual with the Spanish guitar player. Very talented musicians in all and unusual performance. High scores to all.
Posted by: Dennis at February 7, 2005 11:55 AMBARF.
Surf update Hurry ! - ...Right now the beach is reeling! Wind has switched to offshores again. Never seen it so hollow and uncrowded from these lofty Anza Heights. Come one, come all! As we speak I am packing up my surf racked scumsuckingSUVgasguzzlingbushmobile with all my cool ass surf products and wannabepro8newOBbro's; stacking 'em high; all shapes sizes and a promohomo bag for each schtick even though we have less than a mile to drive. Burnin' fatties -- high on niceness and "the call."
Is it us or are we the only gaybro surf pod round these parts?
-Because you ran me over I have a messed up ego...see me whine.
Posted by: DICKEY MORA at February 7, 2005 12:09 PM
Posted by: e at February 7, 2005 12:32 PMYO! Hb....watch out for those empties dude!
Posted by: korewin at February 7, 2005 12:35 PMThis weekend served up some surprise waves. I had some pretty low expectations with the increased winds, little swell, etc. But, some spots at the beach turned on before the winds killed it too much. However, both days the winds overtook the conditions in the early afternoon. Pretty fun.
Shout out to the guy on the longboard that drilled me in the hip last week. Thanks for the bruise.....
Dicky Dora - nice to see ya checking in. We've missed ya.
Posted by: Kaiser at February 7, 2005 12:42 PMIt wasn't me kaiser!
Posted by: Dennis at February 7, 2005 12:46 PMSouth African irie wave
Posted by: e at February 7, 2005 12:47 PMhamburger eyes
Posted by: at February 7, 2005 01:09 PMlerm... i got tickets to that show... you will be blown away by High on Fire... havne't seen fucking champs but my friends tell me they rock... see ya there
saturday i was puking all day... no fun
sunday got some unexpected nuglets at a spot that shoudln't have been workign but was pretty much firing for about an hour...
Posted by: bbr at February 7, 2005 01:26 PMthe fucking champs are good.
brit punk metal, crazy. rad.
i haven't been hitting the beach up much of late. but i have had some pretty awesome late night carve-a-thons on a powell & peralta tony hawk, black and purple, mini. big trucks, risers, big sticky wheels and some awesome slalom course. sticky wheels are so fun. THEY STICK! stuff that you could never do on a new age whirly plank is so easy. fast lines, low turns, drop knee and rail grabbing... feels like goodness. and quietness.
though it would feel good to smack a lip...
ian, we should go skate again. eh?
sickbird
Posted by: elias at February 7, 2005 01:37 PMa brief pause from surf for a rasta moment
Posted by: snake at February 7, 2005 02:47 PMSo a penguin walks into a bar and asks the bartender, "Was my brother in her last night?" The bartender says, 'I dont know. What's he look like?"
Posted by: Dennis at February 7, 2005 03:24 PMInterview with Brooke Burns in Maxim:
You’ve gone from Texas ballet dancer to Hawaiian surfer babe. Life’s good, huh?
It’s pretty perfect. But I’m not a brilliant surfer. I’m not like those killer girls you have here. I’m more into tandem surfing, where two people get on a 12-foot board and paddle out together.
How do you paddle out together? Is it side by side or some sort of 69 deal?
Nice try! Actually, we paddle out the same way you’d paddle out with a kid. You put your chin on the other person’s ass.
Sounds like our frat initiation. Has surfing, like, totally taken over your life?
Pretty much. I grew up in Texas, so I didn’t spend time in the ocean until I came here to do Baywatch. Now I wake up every morning and go, “Where are the waves?” The best thing is sharing a love of the water with other surfers. I know this is going to sound so cheesy, but being in that water is the most spiritual feeling. You’re just this minuscule entity in the universe.
Plus, sometimes a wave comes and rips off your bikini, right?
You wish! But my house is so close to the beach, I wake up and take my bath in the ocean.
Posted by: Kaiser at February 7, 2005 03:31 PMJust shows why surfing gets a bad name....
I could use that teleport right about now....
Posted by: Kaiser at February 7, 2005 03:32 PMSorta fun north of SC this weekend and I surfed the Lane with four guys on the low tide. My pal Rich before his sentencing.
Posted by: Bruce at February 7, 2005 03:56 PMsticky urethane rules!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 7, 2005 04:00 PMHey. i'm from Texas and i surf. Just like Ken Bradshaw.
Posted by: brooke burns at February 7, 2005 04:11 PM
Posted by: ubetcha at February 7, 2005 04:16 PMbruce shots
wipe-out or deep carve?
Posted by: e at February 7, 2005 05:00 PMWipe-out for sure!
Posted by: Kaiser at February 7, 2005 05:49 PMKaiser, yeah right, that guy's completely burrying that rail. Deep gnar-gnar carve for sure!
Posted by: Ian at February 7, 2005 09:04 PMyard sale
Posted by: dano at February 7, 2005 10:47 PM