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serious business

Not for the faint of heart or for those with a wimpy disposition (me!)
Rotund, beastly bombs detonating.
Watched a peak with Lewis and Lerm.
Overhead+ beautiful, high-performance walls of destruction.
Wave after wave.
Guaranteed beat-downs.
No-joke rapings.
Gnarl.
Lewis was amping.
Lerm and i had misgivings.
Checked another spot and there was one guy way way way outside.
Offshores whipping.
After 15 minutes of waiting for a wave out there the guy scratches into a double-overhead? (bigger?) A-frame and just barely narrowly gets over the ledge. He elevator-drops down and then straitens out as the wave crashes and erupts all around him. We think he's headed in after that but, sure enough, he takes another 10 minutes to get way way way outside again. Then just before Lerm and i leave with our tails between our legs this guy takes off on a mama bomb and carves this huge arc while cruising at 300mph. Crazy thick-thighed speed turn. Shredding. Way way out there. By himself. In thick, double-overhead surf. Killing it. On a shortboard. Drifting north. Into the unknown.

Neal Miyaki photos from pipe yesterday
damn!

damn!

Creek (Rob Gilley photos)

Backhand attack!

niceness

Brazil

80ft wave from the tsunami?

Sorry for the multiple postings. A couple of months ago, an artist was looking for broken surfboards for an art project. I am moving houses this week and have a pile of 4 broken surfboards. Two of them are wood verneer surftechs. Had planned on fixing them at some point, but never found the time. If you want them, shoot me an email and I can send you directions. First dibs to artists. Thanks. Great waves late yesterday afternoon, by the way.

Posted by: rob born at February 22, 2005 09:55 AM

email is rborn@twvp.com

Posted by: rob born at February 22, 2005 09:57 AM

I hate to resurrect a thread from a few days ago,
but does anyone have car rental advice for Baja Sur? I'm flying into Cabo at the end of March, and driving north (at least to Todos Santos), then heading back to Cabo. By the look of rates I've seen so far, we're going to get pillaged on renting a car for 2 weeks (mostly on the insurance). Any recommendations on local shops that might be a better deal than the Avis/Budgets of the world? Thanks.

Posted by: Adam at February 22, 2005 10:34 AM

finally getting some waves again today (in a few hours)...if i wasnt going today, it would have been exactly 20 days of dryness...not good for the mind, body, and soul...hope everyone else is getting some or got some or will get some...



Posted by: seth s. at February 22, 2005 10:57 AM

lately i've had some frustrating sessions at the beach so i wandered a bit, here are a few from yesterday...

Posted by: loon at February 22, 2005 11:04 AM

Suited up in my garage b/c it was pouring so hard all night and still pouring, paddle out and only a couple others are out there, felt good and hardcore for paddling out at sunrise on a cold, rainy, stromy sunday morning...

Until a dude comes out of nowhere in the stormy surf, on a paddleboard, with a compass attached, we nod to each other, and he just paddles straight out into the ocean until i couldn't see him anymore. Crazy. Very good on him. He is the true waterman.

Posted by: Hb at February 22, 2005 11:20 AM

wow thats a huge wall of water, any idea how high up one would need to live in the sunset to not get washed away? Would it cross Sunset blvd? 19th ave? Should I caulk my windows and sleep with a leash on? Surely someone with a cube, a brain and time could help figure it out. Maybe we would cause a crash in real estate prices west of...38th ave? maybe not.

Fun waves this weekend a little under gunned yesterday pm.

Posted by: guru at February 22, 2005 11:28 AM

videos from the 5-star in Brazil that Bobby Martinez won.

Posted by: e at February 22, 2005 11:32 AM

Posted by: VIVA BRAZIL!! at February 22, 2005 11:33 AM

Posted by: at February 22, 2005 11:41 AM

just got back from a quick 5 day trip to Baja, scored. But has anyone out there noticed that expats can be the biggest pricks?? I heard the waves were decent here...


BBR,
if you want to buy my Minolta dimage slide/ film scanner it's yours cheap 75$ , like new. I just got the Nikon ...

Posted by: Mexi at February 22, 2005 12:28 PM

At least you admit your weekness, my friends complain they have a cold!

Posted by: at February 22, 2005 12:29 PM

loon, that first pic is so sick! yesterday was so fun!

Posted by: Ian at February 22, 2005 12:30 PM

i knew i was missing something yesterday..my boss hates presidents i guess.

Posted by: bagel at February 22, 2005 12:47 PM

bagel.. you didn't miss much where i surfed. pretty crappy.. fun to be in the ocean.. but.. crapitola waves.

Posted by: e at February 22, 2005 12:50 PM

Jose Borrero is a PhD oceanographer who studies tsunamis. He says 1/2 mile inland or 30 ft above sea level will cover it, in general. They did a mock up of the Indo tsunami and put it in sfgate, and it ran maybe 4-5 blocks into the sunset - a little variable depending on the slope on your block.

My office mate is from India, Madras, where a 30 footer hit, nothing more than 1/2 mile inland was affected at all. The first quarter mile was completely devastated.

Posted by: blakestah at February 22, 2005 12:50 PM

i'm game mexi, i'll send you an email later today.

yesterday was pretty damn fun where i was.

anybody going to san franpsycho II this weekend???

Posted by: bbr at February 22, 2005 01:05 PM

any more reports from today? sounds hevveh.

Posted by: redworm at February 22, 2005 01:11 PM

bbr, where's it being held? I'd love to go. Anyone gunna hit the low-tide?

Posted by: Ian at February 22, 2005 01:19 PM

Oh yeah, just heard Jack Johnson's new album, really solid! He always seems to be out-doing himself.

Posted by: Ian at February 22, 2005 01:21 PM

Adam, If you are just going to Todos, catch the bus to La Paz and rent a bug in La Paz for half the price. Or just bus it the surf spot and camp and hitch or walk to Pescadero for grub. Gabriel at the camp site also has a resteraunt with decent food, but a little pricey, and there is always fish tacos at the other beach.

Also expect to pay more than they quote you for the rental.. ther is also a dollar and and Advantage rent a car at the airport.

Posted by: Mexi at February 22, 2005 01:23 PM

Posted by: at February 22, 2005 01:34 PM

Farck.

Drove up from Snaka Curse and saw every reef, beach and creek mouth frothing with activity.

Abstainence is still the best prevention.

Waited until i found the Jedi doing its peaky warble and decided on the making a go of it.

Mellow session at Master Yoda's local spot and despite the tide it was otherwise friggen nice.

Sunny.Offshore.Sparkling water.

Cute longboard ladies.

Crowding minimal.Mostly smiles.Nice break from the rain.

After work folks will be on it for sure.

Where can i get a new wetsuit?
Any sales going on?

Posted by: Worth It at February 22, 2005 01:40 PM

Thanks for the advice Mexi. We're planning on doing some exploration, so I don't think doing the bus thing will work. Advantage certainly seems cheaper than the other companies. Are you telling me a bug can handle the terrain? By the way, have I gleaned that you are fellow land owner in CR? I bought a plot a little over a year ago, and I'm starting to think about building. The logistics of that are a little frightening though.

Posted by: Adam at February 22, 2005 01:57 PM

adam, the dirt roads around todos santos are all pretty decent. i rented a vw wagon with racks and insurance from budget for $370 for a week. picked up right at the airport.

rally tip:
if you increase the tire pressure to like 35 - 38lbs. you have a little wiggle room if you get stuck in soft sand, as you can delflate the tires for better traction. you really only need 4wd if your heading up the gulf side.

8 weeks and counting until i'm down there too.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 22, 2005 02:34 PM

Rally tip 2:

Always have a 6 pack on hand in case you do get stuck. 3 for you and 1 for each of the mexi's that help you out.

Posted by: traut at February 22, 2005 02:45 PM

Adam,
I got a tiny bit of land and a small house that i'm adding onto this summer. My wife and I plan on living there in the summer when we have a our first kid and have to slow down a bit. I know a decent builder in Hermosa Jaco area if you need info.

Oh yeah, the breaks around Todos have gone to crap, the hurricanes of the past years have dumped a lot of sand into the rocks, sad. I used to go there religiously in the early 90's, it was one of my favorite breaks.

Posted by: Mexi at February 22, 2005 02:49 PM

BUT... the waves are still fun. Just not perfect.

Posted by: Mexi at February 22, 2005 02:50 PM

I'm thinking of going to Costa Rica with the wife and kid in May. Anyone have any good tips on where to go and stay, and have decent surf but also things for the family to do.
I am thinking of Jaco but I hear it is a party town and we're not into that for a vacation. Thoughts?

Help appreciated.

Posted by: Help at February 22, 2005 02:50 PM

closeoutty, onshore pacifica an hour ago:

Posted by: kloo at February 22, 2005 02:58 PM

nice b&w kloo!

Posted by: loon at February 22, 2005 03:12 PM

Kloo... NICE ONE

Posted by: mexi at February 22, 2005 03:13 PM

daydream shredding
light rain, nobody around
glassy point-break with a few friends
head-high
rights
Huge pine trees looming above.
Storm brewing.
pumping and looking for sections.
Long-ass rides.
Lightning in the distance.
Carve off the bottom
Carve off the top.
repeat.
uber glassy super glass.

Posted by: e at February 22, 2005 03:32 PM

senor help,
playas nosara hotel - mellow (non party) atmosphere and nice waves. has been under renovation for ten years check it out if you appreciate architecture

Posted by: otf at February 22, 2005 03:37 PM

yo kloo, where were you and your digi cam on Sunday, coulda used a pic before i made the drive. no worries me and the boys found a nice break any way

Posted by: otf at February 22, 2005 03:39 PM

ya, good one kloo b&w is awesome

Posted by: bagel at February 22, 2005 03:40 PM

Blakestah,
Good answer on how far up the sunset a similar sized tsunami would go. Seems logical. Now what about inside SF Bay? Would the narrow gate keep a lot of the water out before it disipated? Would the water make it to downtown SJ. My guess is that SJ is 30-40 feet above sea level. What about Stockton?
Not that I'm worried or would take any preperations (my house is at 451.1 ft. above sea level) just a fun thought experiment.

Posted by: surfingsam at February 22, 2005 03:46 PM

Blakestah,
Good answer on how far up the sunset a similar sized tsunami would go. Seems logical. Now what about inside SF Bay? Would the narrow gate keep a lot of the water out before it disipated? Would the water make it to downtown SJ. My guess is that SJ is 30-40 feet above sea level. What about Stockton?
Not that I'm worried or would take any preperations (my house is at 451.1 ft. above sea level) just a fun thought experiment.

Posted by: surfingsam at February 22, 2005 03:46 PM

Blakestah,
Good answer on how far up the sunset a similar sized tsunami would go. Seems logical. Now what about inside SF Bay? Would the narrow gate keep a lot of the water out before it disipated? Would the water make it to downtown SJ. My guess is that SJ is 30-40 feet above sea level. What about Stockton?
Not that I'm worried or would take any preperations (my house is at 451.1 ft. above sea level) just a fun thought experiment.

Posted by: surfingsam at February 22, 2005 03:47 PM

sorry about that! Thought my computer was messing.

Posted by: surfingsam at February 22, 2005 03:48 PM

san quentin point would be epic!

Posted by: bagel at February 22, 2005 03:56 PM

yeah bagel,
might even flood dutra's san rafael quarry

Posted by: at February 22, 2005 04:15 PM

Thanks! But I blame the scenery.

Posted by: kloo at February 22, 2005 04:19 PM

jerseyjuice.com

Posted by: e at February 22, 2005 05:16 PM

jerseyjuice.com

Posted by: e at February 22, 2005 05:17 PM

help -> jaco is not so bad that you couldn't stay there for a night with the wife and kid. just avoid the beatles bar and the area around it (north end of town past the bridge) at night. that is where the working girls hang. lot of drunk idiots. the usual.

suggest you skip jaco tho and just head straight to playa hermosa, then figure your shit out from there. have dinner at the jungle cafe. if you go to hermosa. best dinner in the area, fresh fish, usually done up hawaiian or japanese style.

mal pais is nice but a bit of a long haul to get to. if your wife and kid are down with the travel thing tho, go for it. the overland route is long, suggest one of the two ferries from the port in punta arenas instead -- take the one that gets you closer to moctezuma, stop in moctezuma maybe for a night -- it's a chill, tiny town with a couple nice restaurants, hotels and bars and a modest hippy backpacker scene -- then get a taxi to drive ya to santa theresa/mal pais. punta arenas, btw, being a port town, is kinda ugly and sketchy. but you're just there to catch the ferry to a much nicer place.

options abound. the carib side can be pretty sweet, around playa cocles...

Posted by: at February 22, 2005 05:18 PM

report from today

paddle out - long and difficult

paddle in - long and difficult

drop-ins - late and difficult

poppin ibuprofen now. Some sessions are just mistakes.

Posted by: blakestah at February 22, 2005 05:23 PM

haha - yep that's about right. Although plenty of fun was had... I kindof enjoy it when it's like this afternoon...wild and plenty of energy. Some rather large sweepers kept rearing up and doing a good job of picking everyone up and dumping them for a good punishing on the inside.

Body is still buzzing from one particularly large and brutal closeout that I knew I was never going to make, but for some daft reason kept paddling for.

Ahh! Good ole OB!

Posted by: ankors at February 22, 2005 07:20 PM

Adam... re sand and pressures. If you are planning to driving over much in the way of sand, worth picking up one of those cheapo compressors from Target that run off the cig lighter. That way you can stick to the old rule of ?deflate and accelerate...that will get you a long way.

Always worth carrying a shovel (I use a light ski type one) a couple of mats you can roll up that can be used as sand ladders, and of course a tow rope. That way you can have the confidence to go just about everywhere, knowing you can get out pretty easily if you get stuck.

And don't be afraid to thrash the crap out of it through deep sand ;-)

(had my fair share of sand experience driving across the Western Sahara)

Posted by: ankors at February 22, 2005 07:27 PM

Kloo is the man....

Keep it up Kloo. Even though your name has changed and been shortened, appropriately, I think you might consider one more.

Move some shit to the front now....with maybe a "getting a kloo" or "got a kloo" or even "fullofkloo's".

Just don't ever start claiming tubes, cutties, bigwaves, top turns, bottom turns, etc....then we would have to start calling you "full of klooself"

Big up's to all picture posters!

Posted by: tom at February 22, 2005 08:30 PM

Greatest scene is the shaping a board intercut with running with new board to the break and then surfing new board.

Posted by: Morning of the Earth at February 22, 2005 08:37 PM

never has a board been shaped and then ran and surfed...it would waterlog and break.

sorry folks, it's 1972 and everything is bullshit.

guess what things will be like in '05?

BULLSHIT AGAIN ......

Posted by: staged at February 22, 2005 08:52 PM

As if I needed another reason to travel with a big, pink longboard, I got back from Mainland Mexico last night where I was recognized that morning in the Sayulita line-up by no less than five OB regulars and Rene and a buddy from Dillon Beach.

Oh yes, conditions were clear, slightly offshore, fairly glassy, 3' to 5' sets of five and the water temperature was 76 degrees. As you can imagine, the guys from SF were really quite pale.

Posted by: Spider Man at February 22, 2005 09:40 PM

Staged for president!!

Posted by: at February 22, 2005 10:09 PM

eric b for president!

Posted by: at February 22, 2005 11:26 PM

5:30 am and the onshores are kicked in... it's spring.

Posted by: banjo at February 23, 2005 05:28 AM

re: costa rica, i'm pretty sure there is now a bridge connecting the mainland to the nicoya peninsula, thereby avoiding the circuitous route to mal pais. o/w, the ferry ride over is pretty chill - be sure to get there early, though, as once the ferry is full, you'll have to endure more time in Puntarenas, the unofficial armpit of CR. be sure to check out Boca Barranca, a sweet (albeit allegedly dirty) rivermouth break en route to Puntarenas.

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