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large and burly

Heavy and serious out there.
Outer outer outer bars showing whitewater as the sun rose.
Nobody around.
Maybe a jetski out near the potato patch beyond cron?
Silty, polluted water.
Over an inch of rain in some bay area towns last night.
Maybe a good Santa Cruz morning?
Caught one memorable ride recently.
Thick and powerful.
Backdoorish takeoff.
Pigdog upchuck drop.
Enjoy the narrel.
Carve off the bottom. Off the top.
Stand there in the concave sweet spot.
Enjoy.

Good times Saturday morning. Big, peaky, glassy.
Nice to trade waves with Mark Massara.
And Lerm.. as always.
Lerm currently up at Tahoe. Fresh tracks most likely.

Anybody catch the new SanFranPsycho??

MORE CAR BREAKINS ON THE GREAT HIGHWAY:
(email from Jon)
On Friday afternoon, while surfing Noriega, my car was
broken into and my wallet was stolen. Apparently the
thieves watched where I stashed my keys, waited until
I paddled out, and then opened my car and took my
wallet. They did not notice my cell phone in the
center console near the front seat. Some other guy
parked opposite me on the Great Highway also had his
keys/wallet stolen and was waiting in his wetsuit for
a ride home at sundown.

I also heard of a similar break-in a couple of weeks
ago on the GH at Quintara, and a separate incident at
Pacheco. In each instance, the perpetrators used the
surfers' stash spot to gain access into their cars.

The incident at Quintara happened to a friend of mine.
If I had heeded his words of advice, I wouldn't be
writing this now.

So please hide your keys with utmost care or take them
surfing with you. When I hid my keys, several cars
were coming down the highway but I was too excited to
wait until they passed. I plan on wearing my key
around my neck from now on. Furthermore, if you see
some suspicious activity -- i.e. hoodlums or otherwise
"suss" characters searching people's pants for wallets
and then leaving the scene -- call attention to these
guys.

LBI photo by Jonathan Hoover
Jersey Juice

Spain

BI

Occy photo by Sarge

Parko

san franpsycho.
reckless abandon.

good local surfing.

that place got THRASHED.
people pissing in trash cans, sinks filled with piss. beer and mixed drinks everywhere, smoke and refer madness. awesome spectacle....

i heard like 700 tickets sold and only 300 or so were allowed in!

thats my recap.

Posted by: elias at February 28, 2005 09:54 AM

People still hide their keys under fenders, bumperd, etc? I am amazed, moreso after last year's rash of thefts that were often talked about here. Please use the wetsuit key pouch, or make a copy of the key, loop a string through it, and hang it around your neck.

As for the movie, shame I missed it. I wonder how they got away with selling twice the number of ticket than seats? You'd think there would have been a riot.

Posted by: Duncan at February 28, 2005 10:12 AM

Sucks about the thefts. I keep the key on my leash.

Saturday high tide was really fun, if crowded, inner-bar action. Crowds are annoying, and I usually steer clear, but I did enjoy getting to see some of you rip up close. Sunday mid-tide was almost deserted but popping with peaky offshore rideables sprinkled amid the short-period randomness.

Posted by: kloo at February 28, 2005 10:24 AM

I leave my key in the ignition and my wallet on the dash. Just ask my dog if is ok to steal. He'll let you know what he thinks.

Posted by: web at February 28, 2005 10:30 AM

thats actually a good way to not get ripped off..also leaving the car door wide open while surfing helps..

movie sounds fun, trailer looks pretty cool that guy had a good backside turn..should have gone..

Posted by: bagel at February 28, 2005 10:53 AM

I hit low tide Sat am and had fun. No crowd factor at all. Young woman on a yellow/orange fish was totally stoked. It was fun to hear her yelling.

Did anyone hear about a surfer being pulled out at Sloat Sat around 10:30ish?

Posted by: Dennis at February 28, 2005 10:54 AM

arsenic in the oscar mayer takes care of the dog

Posted by: thief at February 28, 2005 10:55 AM

Got my wallet stolen at Cornholes (Southern Sloat) last fall. I was also too amped to look around, having never been burgled before.

take your key with ya, folks. and dont leave your dog locked in your car while you surf, that is cruel and unusual.

Posted by: eye_reckon at February 28, 2005 10:59 AM

E, thanks for posting my note about the car thefts on Friday.

I have always stashed my keys because I thought, foolishly, that theft would never happen to me. Oh well. Last week I also found out that my brother is gifting me excess frequent flyer miles so I can make a trip to South Africa this summer for free. Gotta love karma -- what comes around, goes around.

Aloha

Posted by: Jon at February 28, 2005 11:02 AM

I heard about the saving at Sloat. An epileptic siezure and absent minded surfing pals almost cost the kid his life if it wasn't for the direct action of someone who is a pretty well known poster on this board, a former lifeguard and someone who remembers his emergency breathing assistance training.

The guy owes his life to that particular person who I'll leave it up to him to determine if he want's anyone to know who he is.

Posted by: at February 28, 2005 11:03 AM

i heard the movie had more footage of people getting drunk than people surfing, and that the crowd was out of hand.

saturday was kinda fun at sloat, and yesterday was insane at suppenkuche, still recovering from that session today.

Posted by: bbr at February 28, 2005 11:05 AM

the film definitely had some quality surfing - lots of guys pulling big moves on big waves. and the portrayal of OB as something out of Surf Nazis Must Die was quite humorous.
Punch has always had great shows but I've never seen any as wild as this one. testosterone, chicks, and much beer had many people on edge. Punch is unfortunately closing it's doors for good, so I think they overlooked a lot of things that night - if they hadn't.....riot.

Posted by: rza at February 28, 2005 11:12 AM

Posted by: phil at February 28, 2005 11:30 AM

yeah, wow, i didn't know the surf scene here was so studly and wild. i guess i haven't hung around on the right days or something. that might have been me, dennis, dorking out and hollering on sat. morn. having fun but not gettting tons of waves. i didn't see you though and i know i've met you. so maybe it wasn't me.
i wanna learn to do a rail grab cutback like that drawing.

Posted by: steamwand at February 28, 2005 11:59 AM

I am one of the absent minded buddys of the guy pulled out of the water on Saturday. It was by far the heaviest thing I have ever seen in almost 20 years of surfing in the area. The guy who went unconscious is a very solid surfer who excels in the biggest & meanest OB can dish out. Fortunately Saturday was not one of those days.

Out of respect for privacy I don't want to go into too much detail but I think recounting the story could help save lives down the road. Basically how it started is I hear someone screaming which I mistakenly assume is some asshole barking for some surf etiquette breach but then I see what he is motioning to which is a someone floating unconcsious with their board tombstoning. To my absolute horror I recognize my friends board and that it is him. I paddle over to him just as the guy who first saw him does. At this point I think I went into a state of semi shock as it seemed more like a nightmare than reality. Fortunately the guy that initially saw him knew CPR and began giving mouth to mouth along with another friend that came over. Basically four of us pulled him into the shorebreak(right where the rocks are) so we had to pull him north to actual beach. At that point a bunch of other people ran down and jumped into the water fully clothed to help pull him to shore. Once we got him to shore he started to breathe again and fortunately the EMS got there really quickly. I don't think he fully came to until he was in back of the ambulance but he is fine now. Me personally I would like to thank every single person that helped bring him in, the guys that jumped in fully clothed, the person that saw us waving from the water & dialed 911, EMS for a really speedy response, and especially the guy that first saw him, got in there quickly with emergency breathing assistance. If someone here knows him, please re thank him for me.

Lessons learned from this experience:
1. Every single surfer should know at least basic CPR, after this experience I just signed up for a course.

2. Always keep an eye on others in the lineup you never know who could need help.

Posted by: Reality Check at February 28, 2005 12:06 PM

EMERGENCY PA NEEDED!!! (TO ANY OF YOU MUSICIANS OUT THERE!)

Our band Bag of Toys ( http://www.bagoftoysmusic.com ) has just been asked to play at the Mavicks Surf Contest (that will most likely be held this Wednesday), but because we were kind of a last minute addition, there is no PA for us.

I was just wondering if any of you guys has a line on a PA we could borrow or rent cheaply...we'd take VERY good care of it. We'd be playing on the awards stage between that last event and the actual awards (about an hour).

Please let me know if anyone can help.

Thanks!
Robert Tait
cell: 415.359.5246
robert@bagoftoysmusic.com
http://www.bagoftoysmusic.com

Posted by: Robert Tait at February 28, 2005 12:08 PM

Steamwand, I was at the north end from 7:30 to 9:30. If it was you, I asked if you were riding a fish. I got out before being sucked out to sea in the big rip then I stood on the beach and watched while you, or whoever, paddled in cuz it was tough getting in.

Posted by: Dennis at February 28, 2005 12:16 PM

yeah, that was me. thanks for watching my progress in, i really appreciated it, wanted to thank you, but didn't catch up to you. it's always nice to know someone has their eye out for you, especially since i usually go out by myself. that little fish doesn't have much paddling power, but its better than swimming. i was thinking while paddling in that swimming in that soupy rip woulda been difficult.

Posted by: steamwand at February 28, 2005 12:26 PM

that's heavy Reality Check! Glad that your friend is ok. What exactly happened to him? Seizure?
That's a scary story.

Posted by: e at February 28, 2005 12:30 PM

Damn, that is some heavy shit! Glad to hear that the victim is healthy and alive.

Is this surf going to clean up or what? I haven't surfed in days! Well, I guess I surfed Saturday but I got it after the wind did and it was crappy.

I NEED SURF....Beach looked horrible yesterday and today....

WCT Event #1 scheduled to go down soon.

Posted by: Kaiser at February 28, 2005 12:32 PM

I think I was the other person who Jon is referring to. I hid my key under a bush on Friday afternoon, but I was still in view of my car when I did it. The thieves had to have been scoping me the whole time. They just grabbed my wallet, and then put my pants back just as I had left them. So when I got back to the car, I initially wasn't sure anything had been taken when I looked through the windows. They didn't take my cell phone, which enabled me to call my credit card companies. By that time they had maxed out my debit card and were heavily charging on my other credit card.

I used to take my key with my, but recently got a newer car and if the key gets wet, the little computer chip inside it fries and the car won't start with it. But I can still use it to open the doors.

Thank jebus they didn't steal my car.

Posted by: cf at February 28, 2005 12:33 PM

Well, thanks for getting me pumped up out there through your stoke. I saw you get a couple good rides.

Reality - that's a shocker. I took a CPR class at CCSF some years back. Never had to apply myself at the beach but have assisted a couple car accident victims. I really want to take that ocean rescue class and spread the info to all at the beach so you guys can watch my back ;)

Posted by: Dennis at February 28, 2005 12:34 PM

Free CPR Classes if anyone is interested,registration is required though:

http://arcsf.axxiomportals.com/main_CRS/crs_detail.asp?topic=CRS_VIEW&flattopic=1&lngkey=en&id=1322

Posted by: Reality Check at February 28, 2005 12:40 PM

Spent a long weekend skiing at the Apache Sunrise recreational area in the White Mountains of eastern Arizona. Beautiful “big sky” country with lots of fluffy snowfall, deer grazing by the road, and crisp clean air at 10,000 feet. A bit spooky driving through the thousands of acres of forests devastated by the big fire last year.

I noticed the post from Friday regarding the painting of Joe Hill by Steve Reich. Steve contacted me months ago about using my photos. Pretty chill, straight up guy with plenty of talent. Geez, what's next? The Joe Hill Big Wave Quarter from the US Mint?

So who's our local hero? Given my crappy physical conditioning, I'd like to surf near him! Seriously, that's something to be very proud of.

Posted by: Bruce at February 28, 2005 12:41 PM

Posted by: disengage the simulator at February 28, 2005 12:53 PM

Posted by: anthony jackson at February 28, 2005 01:03 PM

Posted by: Bill Ware at February 28, 2005 01:27 PM

Posted by: tortoise at February 28, 2005 01:29 PM

Reality Check, that is really intense. Good to know there are solid people in the water who can act appropriately given the situation. VERY glad to hear your friend is ok and that goes to show that stuff can happen to anyone. Scary stuff. Disengage the Simulator is one of my favorite songs. The demo version is way better though, that's the one used in Computer Body, which is also one of my favorite videos. That sucked the film sold out Saturday night. Stood in line for a good 45 min. only to be told 15 ft. from the door that it sold out. Bummed. Bruce, that's awesome to hear about the snow trip. We wondered where you were. Mav contest on Weds. That'd be pretty rad.

Posted by: Ian at February 28, 2005 01:56 PM

Reports of many "friendlies" in the lineups recently.

I surfed with a little whale cruising the lineup on Saturday at Slizz in the afternoon. Pretty crazy to have those guys so close.


Posted by: Kaiser at February 28, 2005 02:13 PM

My favorite ding repair guy...

Posted by: Kaiser at February 28, 2005 02:15 PM

E thanks for putting up some of my pics the other day!

Everyone needs to keep your eyes out for one another out there in the ocean. Hopefully everyone can learn from these recent/ tragic events @ our coast. Actually way more "real accidents" happen in smaller surf, while more "close calls" happen in big surf!

OK here's one for you all!

Posted by: artifact at February 28, 2005 02:16 PM

mav's contest?! hells yeah, take my 2 younguns and girlie down to the cliffs and watch guys ride bombs, i'm there. now, if the rumor could only be confirmed....

Posted by: oaktown daddy at February 28, 2005 03:03 PM

Steamwand, that's funny - out on Sat a bit later and farther south , but also on a mostly yellow board w/orange highlights, and involuntarily yelling. We have to surf together sometime, imagine the geek power ;)

Ian, I had 3 advanced tix to that show and was skunked 7 feet in front of you. Grrr. That's at least 15 bars of wax plus beer for dragging my friends across town to a dead end.

More nice surf please!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at February 28, 2005 03:18 PM

Hey all....been a long time since I have posted. Work has been a drag and preventing me from browsing as well as surfing.

I hope that folks do not mis understand my intentions by publicizing that I was that initial guy who saw and helped reality checks buddy. I am very releived to hear he is ok and glad that everything went well.

Its a real intense situation that truely disturbs me and left me slightly distraut. I also just want to thank you guys for comming to our aid and putting forth all of your efforts.

This guy has a few people to thank, the first being is himself. I dont know how I know, but this guy wanted to live. It didnt take much work to get him breathing again and he just seemed to not want to give up. All of you who assume that he should not be in the water in the first place, please fuck off as you are probably the type of surfers who were 10 yards closer than I was or taking off on a wave towards his body only to ignore the situation. You know who you are and luckily I have already forgotten your faces as I seriously wish it were you face down in the water rather than someone who has the drive and courage to do something that is potentially dangerous and is told "you cant do that". That guy has some spirit and despite this event I sincerely hope he doesnt quit surfing. Maybe the sea was sending a message, but I for one will welcome this guy in any lineup.

He owes a lot to his friends who not only helped bring him in but put themselves at risk to assist. I also really think he responded to thier voices and he should feel comfortable knowing he has genuine friends who care for him and wanted him to make it through. They also worked like fucking hell to get him in. I can only hope that my friends would put in the same effort for me given the situation.

I would have done this for anyone out there in the water including people I dont like. A lot of us surfers need a reality check, a good look in the mirror and an attitude change. Surfing is not supposed to be like the rest of society, where we get ahead by ignoring others needs and stepping on people/ideals to get ahead. Its not supposed to be about "HEY I GOT IT!" or "did you see me on that wave". The spirtual element of surfing is dying and self centeredness, greed, selfishness and vanity within us is killing it. Im still going to surf as there are good surfers with sound characters who still inspire me. Sounds corny but EDDY WOULD GO can teach us a lot about surfing and what it means to take part in this blessing that is surf. Surfing has soul and you either are destroying it, enslaving it or allowing it to embrace you.

Please send my thanks to that guy as he both reminded me of many things and inspires me to not only challange myself in surfing but more importantly in life. I WANT TO LIVE TOO!!!!!

Posted by: pez at February 28, 2005 03:47 PM

yeah Pez! fuck yeah!

Posted by: e at February 28, 2005 03:50 PM

PEZ FOR PRESIDENT!!

Posted by: dubya at February 28, 2005 03:50 PM

Posted by: bootsy and bucket at February 28, 2005 04:00 PM

huh. mavs on wed?

there's too much west in the swell angle?

it could be sketchy...

Posted by: at February 28, 2005 04:08 PM

Heeeeeeeaaaavy Pez.

We need more people like you in the water, and in the world.

Posted by: Hb at February 28, 2005 04:24 PM

Pez,
Very well put, you are truly a hero. Next time I see you beers are on me. Seriously, any of you see Pez surfing please give him first dibs on a set wave.

Sad state of surfing that my first reaction to hearing someone yelling is to ignore them thinking it is someone just being a dick.

I know that a lot of the people that lurk on here are friends with this guy and I speak for them, him, as well as myself when I say that I cannot possibly express my gratitude to you for your sharp eyes and quick thinking.

Posted by: Reality Check at February 28, 2005 04:28 PM

Damn! Heavy shit in here today! Pez, what can I say.....good shit man.


On another note, I just want to keep the stoke rolling. The meter is fine but what the hell...

Posted by: Kaiser at February 28, 2005 04:54 PM

And another for good measure:

Posted by: Kaiser at February 28, 2005 04:54 PM

pez...

you da man. your actions

and your words speak volumes about the
good in the world. you, reality check and
his friend are all welcome anywhere we find
one another...bars beaches or otherwise.
beers and waves on my tab....

so F***IN stoked to hear that worked out
and how nice is it that a bad, bad situation
can turn into something positive for us all.

cheers.

Posted by: korewin at February 28, 2005 05:07 PM

awesome pez....you embody what all surfers should strive to...

Posted by: rza at February 28, 2005 05:24 PM

thanks pez.

i just had a lifeguard training dream last night. remembering the proper procedure for swimming with someone. probably would benefit from re-taking those classes again.

kaiser. what do you do at work again...

Posted by: elias at February 28, 2005 05:43 PM

Very, very well said, Pez. All of us need to grasp this concept, hopefully without the trauma of trying to save a life, or worse, seeing one lost. It is posts like this that keep me coming to this site. E, thanks for the forum where we can share stuff like this, the things that truly matter.

Posted by: web at February 28, 2005 05:45 PM

yeah web! DITTO.

Posted by: elias at February 28, 2005 05:47 PM

remember, last one to shoot has to eat the cracker...

Posted by: soggy biscuit at February 28, 2005 05:56 PM

Elias, I just got done playing a game of foosball. What sucks is that one of the guys broke during the game. Yeah, we had to call a timeout and fix him. He is better now.

Work? I don't really work. I just have an office I go to everyday.

Posted by: Kaiser at February 28, 2005 06:13 PM

damn foosball and a broken guy...is that like a
man down drill in lacrosse? power play in hockey?

ck? thoughts?

Posted by: korewin at February 28, 2005 06:27 PM

your the man pez!

Posted by: bagel at February 28, 2005 06:31 PM

hey kaiser so u were out there on saturday at sloat? i was the grom on the blue bodyboard... remember? there were only like 3 surfers around me, one on a fish, one on a longboard, and something else. all were fairly old. that whale popped up like 15 feet from me. awesome!

Posted by: Hoseph at February 28, 2005 06:34 PM

o yea i had a hood on

Posted by: Hoseph at February 28, 2005 06:35 PM

Pez is an unbelievable guy. We're lucky to have people around that care about others. THANK YOU PEZ for saving someones life. That is amazing.

Posted by: Ian at February 28, 2005 06:39 PM

nice work pez & reality check, thanks for the posts.

i know that it is no substitute for training, but could someone with lifeguard training provide an outline of if/how water-based lifesaving techniques, particularly cpr, varies from cpr done on land?

Posted by: loon at February 28, 2005 06:50 PM

thank you pez and all the folks that helped out the surfer in need. i was just north of the bathrooms and oblivious.

Posted by: ax at February 28, 2005 07:35 PM

Pez, you have some positive karma points to cash in. Send an email to my site or get my cell phone number from E or Kaiser. Personal organic photog session if we can work out the logistics. Maybe a dp at OB or shots at SC some weekend? Photos to share with your grandkids some day. You demonstrated every good thing about surfing, Niceness.org, and life in general. Thanks.

Posted by: Bruce at February 28, 2005 07:51 PM

pez, strong work!!

Although if I were that surfer, I may not venture in the water until I was quite certain the seizures were under control. I was thinking about that when my leash broke after dark and I had a long swim in. We take it for granted, so much of the time we're out there it is just you and the ocean. And if anything happens, like a seizure, that's all she wrote unless you are lucky enough to be surfing close to Pez or another savior.

Posted by: blakestah at February 28, 2005 08:02 PM

Reality Check, and others thank you guys too!!! blakestah, well said. I was out with just my swim fins the other taking water shots, and the current was a bit tough, and I noticed people on boards were shooting right past me when paddling, and I was just laying on my back kicking away trying to stay in one spot. Just having floatation out there being at water level helps a lot. It's easy to take something that small for granted. On another note, last weekend I saw a middle aged man go out for a swim in the chop slop with ONLY trunks on. We made eye contact, and I cheerfully asked him if he was going out, "why not?" he responded. I said, "looks like a good day for a swim!" We both chuckled and went on our way. He was stoked to say the least!!

Posted by: Ian at February 28, 2005 08:39 PM

life is precious and fleeting....be nice to each other peeps.

pez..you are good people

Posted by: jdz at February 28, 2005 08:40 PM

I gotta start by posting my big ups to Steamwand. As for the medical emergency, I'm not sure what the lesson is from this, except that at the end of the day, looking out for each other is probably a larger contribution than anything else we do.

CPR, per se, can't be done in water. Red Cross Lifeguarding handbook (I have my 1990 edition still) only covers rescue breathing in the water. Basically, the A(irway) B(reathing) of the ABCs. Chest compressions requires alot of force and you need a solid surface. Whenever they do studies, they find that most health care professionals don't do it hard enough. I took my certification 6 times (yearly, but it has lapsed now), and one year I had an EMT. He said you know you're doing it right when you hear the ribs break. I'm gonna take this as a wake-up call to get my CPR renewed.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at February 28, 2005 11:16 PM

Pez, thanks for caring. I hear you on the attitude, but you just restored some faith.

Reality Check, you were on it as well. You all are not just watermen, but decent people.

The whole story is a reality check. It's not my place to do so, and... this is an internet blog open to the world... it's a painful story for you all, I can only imagine. However, you may want to share this story over on Surfermag for a wider reach.

Like Andrew, this is sending me back for CPR renewal.

Posted by: SFKneelo at March 1, 2005 08:15 AM


mavs is now on standby for tomorrow.

Posted by: g at March 1, 2005 09:47 AM
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