feels like So Cal.
Hot.
Offshores.
Funky, not-so-inviting conditions.
Surfable for sure.
Nary a soul on the dawn-patrol.
What if:
What if perfect surf conditions alighted all world-wide beaches/reefs/points everyday, all day, all year?
Ocean Beach head-high+, 5ft 12second inner bar glassy radiance guaranteed. Every peak a winner. All the way down to Sharp Park. Heaps and heaps of waves. Lindy peeling and succulent. San-O style lefts at the South end. Trestles rights up north. The Jetty wedge working and grinding all the time. Every dog has its day every day. Would surfing lose any of its allure? Would crowds mushroom out of control? Imagine every pocket beach in Marin producing a point-break left and right at each end. Tennessee Valley Beach tossing out funnelling barrels at each end. Muir beach longboard heaven. What place, if any, lives closest to this ideal of guaranteed perfection every day? Mentawais? Bali? Yallingup? Santa Cruz?
What if humans could elect be invisible to each other. Imagine surfing Steamer Lane and somehow crafting it so that you could only see/bump-into/be-aware-of those people that you elect. I could see myself, Lerm, Kaiser and Jake on a perfect low-tide session but nobody else. It would appear to us that we're the only ones in the water. Meanwhile, hundreds or thousands of simultaneous crowd-free sessions are happening at the same time, at the same place, on the same waves. Two humans occupying the same space without interfering with each other.
What if cars could fold up into credit-card-sized gadgets? No parking issues.
What if we knew the world would end in 10 years. How would things change?
What if you could surf the way you wanted.
So Cal during this last swell (photos by Alan K)
Be the change you want to see in the world
- Mahatma Gandhi
ALSO!!! Tuesday March 15th my band Open Realm has a show at the 12 Galaxies. We're the first of three bands and our 45 minute set starts at 9:30. 12 Galaxies is at 22nd and Mission. ROCK!
if the world ended in ten years - i'd rob a bank and take my chances at not getting caught.
Posted by: at March 11, 2005 10:26 AMIf the world ended in ten years, I would probably surf every day, go move in with some rich guy and not worry about going to prison because it wouldn't really matter, except my last few years WOULD kinda suck... So scratch that. But surf and shred on my guitar and have sex?
Posted by: Brian at March 11, 2005 10:31 AM"What if we knww the world was going to end in 10 years?"
I'd spend a lot more time trying to get to know my maker and a lot less time working for money/assets to secure long-term security for myself and my family. It would also change my plans for having kids...
All-in-all I'd probably spend more time surfing, enjoying time with the wife and friends, and praying.
Posted by: at March 11, 2005 10:32 AMSurf looked good this a.m., but my surfing sucked. Body felt devoid of any energy and I couldn't get out past the break. Ugh!! Maybe I should lay off the Girl Scout cookies. Just surfed the inside break. Of course, when I got back to the beach, I saw a buncha open channels. Oh well.
Posted by: amigoism at March 11, 2005 10:32 AMFor those of you who read Doof's account yesterday and drooled into your keyboards. I was there, and all I can say is I am glad someone had a good time.
Not that my time totally sucked, it was sunny, the crowd was light and actually friendly for the most part. But it was over an hour before I caught my first wave and that was a left at a right point break. In 2-2.5 hours I caught three waves, the best of these was just O.K.
Sometimes the biggest board is not the best.
I guess I jinxed Blakestah by telling him his leash cord was too long. But on the drive down, he was the one saying everytime he comes to SC, it's sunny and the waves are fantastic.
Oh listen to me, what a whiner.
If the world was to end in ten years and you're in a relationship......., do you go single for then next decade or keep it going? Can't have children in a world you know is going to end. Would he a decade of hedonism for sure.
Posted by: tsm at March 11, 2005 10:34 AMamigoism...i suffered a similar affliction! not that i ever am any good, but today i just couldn't get it together. herky-jerky kook-a-ram-a. sucked. the morning, however, was incredible. happy Friday, all!
Posted by: ck at March 11, 2005 10:45 AMif perfect conditions where a 24/7 reality.......
bvb and dickey mora etc., might just be too stoked to intimidate and hate. that would be sweet.
it's Friday smoke em if you got em. PEACE!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 11, 2005 10:46 AM10 years til the end? that would literally set off a race to space. i'm sure they could build a nice little hotel hovering off mars...although getting there would be quite steep....$1 mil...$5 mil...how much would someone pay not to die?
Posted by: rza at March 11, 2005 10:49 AMnear the end, after the elite had left, it'd be cool to squat in some of the abandoned mansions near china beach...maybe the one with the sick view of dead man's......what irony?
I think the coast of New South Wales is as close as it comes. The whole coast has great waves, and tons of swell. The North Coast is point break heaven.
Posted by: tucker at March 11, 2005 10:50 AMif the world was to end in 10 years, i would definitely drop everything to travel and surf.
the waves this morning left something to be desired. i actually made it out without a problem but just got hammered on the few waves that i tried for. the current was strong too, so i cut my session short before i got sucked to china beach. beautiful day for a swim though.
prepare yourselves, cuz it's probably going to get crowded this weekend with the nice weather and all.
good SC story yesterday guys!
Posted by: lerm at March 11, 2005 10:50 AMThat first pic looks like something out of a Gidget movie. Isn't that Frankie Avalon in the middle?
Yo E, do you have any suggestions for a one night stay in SLO? I'm heading down to SoCal next weekend leaving on Thursday night after work--actually after my wife finishes work around 7Pm in San Jose. Figured we just drive down to SLO and start early on Friday.
My take on why OB is NOT typically crowded (exceptions exist) is that it's a difficult place to surf. Currents, rips, double-wave-beat-downs, duck-dive-after-duck-dive-after duck-dive, big drops, short shoulders, shifty bars, thick sand-filled barrels, huge heavy closeouts, wind-blown, cold, murky water with god knows what's in it, telephone poles and dead cows floating through the linup... If there were perfect waves every day, it would most certainly be crowded.
Posted by: Dennis at March 11, 2005 10:52 AMfriend #1-sorry if I recommended too big a board. I think the swell at PP was actually smaller than I anticipated.
I was there yesterday again on my 9-8 which let me pick up lots of waves on the outside 1st peak. The biggest problem was dropping in with a crowd right in front of me who were all turning to try to catch the wave I was already on. Lots of near misses and a few stares.
Blakestah-jealous of my rides? I don't think so. I've seen you at the peak.
IMO perfect conditions day after day get boring. The variety and fickle nature of OB is part of its allure.
Posted by: kdalle at March 11, 2005 10:54 AMTrippin' to Kaw'ai - anybody got any tips on the "insternessnet.comshurfffffspots?" Forget 'Spread It' Beach, plus da B-Hamilister lost her arm there. Man. Sheeit. Never forget that day her running up the beach all bloody - no arm ...I remember the day not THAT long ago when we useta dive there in '75'6'7801' 012345678XXXXX0000000014158089808213350310. 666 CALI 666 CALI 666 CALI 666
Posted by: Jack Masters at March 11, 2005 10:59 AMAny advice on hot to access The Ranch? Big Sur? Directions? Anybody...? Priceline.commiefriscotransplantfecalface.
I quit surfing to write prose and paint. It's hard here where I am. All alone wondering when life is going to change for me...
I watched all the surfers suiting up and became aroused at their manhood, their coolness. The vibe permeated into my car and I have to admit I had a surfers' erection.
Had to get out and see the ocean.
The smell of sea salt and pussy this morning - then the burnt bagel ham and egg sandwich and more pussy. Fuck dude - my balls were huge and I thought,
' fuckall this hot pussy shit. I'm cuttin' a mullett and heading for the Jetty after a fat burrito in El Grande - yeah'. Fuck. Life is good. I watch my Ho's charging charging charges chargers masturbating Mav's and I want to paddle out but I can't. Too scared. And, let it be known here, I admit, ... I am kind of a wimp. There goes the ghost of Matt Wasburn, Doc. Wowwwww . Flea-me! I must be dead.
No wait! DEADMAN'S. The Fort. In my dream I ruled it FRONTSIDE - dropping in next to E and he's all smiling and giving me the shaka. Yeah brah... right'on,- cool baby. Gimmie all your green buds dude!
There we were at San Gregoria, his wife and me all snuggling and shit. Now she IS MY LADY. All pussy and shit.
it's long, delete it if too long...
FRANK RICH
The Greatest Dirty Joke Ever Told
IT was two and half weeks after 9/11 that I heard the dirtiest joke I'd
ever heard in my life. New York was still tossing and turning under its
blanket of grief back then. Almost no one was going out at night to have
fun, a word that had been banished from the country's vocabulary. But
desperately sad people will do desperate things. That's my excuse for
making my way with my wife to the Hilton on Sixth Avenue, where the Friars
Club was roasting Hugh Hefner.
Someone had decided that the show must go on. A crowd materialized out of
nowhere to pack a vast ballroom in an otherwise shadowy and deserted
Midtown. On the dais were not only the expected clowns old (Alan King) and
young (Jimmy Kimmel) but a surreal grab bag of celebrities out of Madame
Tussauds: Dr. Joyce Brothers, Ice-T, Patty Hearst, Donald Trump. "God Bless
America" was sung by Deborah Harry.
The ensuing avalanche of Viagra jokes did not pull off the miracle of
making everyone in the room forget the recent events. Restlessness had long
since set in when the last comic on the bill, Gilbert Gottfried, took the
stage. Mr. Gottfried, decked out in preposterously ill-fitting formal wear,
has a manic voice so shrill he makes Jerry Lewis sound like Morgan Freeman.
He grabbed the podium for dear life and started rocking back and forth like
a hyperactive teenager trapped onstage in a school assembly. Soon he
delivered what may have been the first public 9/11 gag: He couldn't get a
direct flight to California, he said, because "they said they have to stop
at the Empire State Building first."
There were boos, but Mr. Gottfried moved right along to his act's crowning
joke. "A talent agent is sitting in his office," he began. "A family walks
in - a man, woman, two kids, and their little dog. And the talent agent
goes, 'What kind of an act do you do?' " What followed was a marathon
description of a vaudeville routine featuring incest, bestiality and almost
every conceivable bodily function. The agent asks the couple the name of
their unusual act, and their answer is the punch line: "The Aristocrats."
As the mass exodus began, some people were laughing, others were appalled,
and perhaps a majority of us were in the middle. We knew we had seen
something remarkable, not because the joke was so funny but because it had
served as shock therapy, harmless shock therapy for an adult audience, that
at least temporarily relieved us of our burdens and jolted us back into the
land of the living again. Some weeks later Comedy Central would cut the bit
entirely from its cable recycling of the roast. But in the more than three
years since, I have often reflected upon Mr. Gottfried's mesmerizing
performance. At a terrible time it was an incongruous but welcome gift. He
was inviting us to once again let loose.
I bring up that night now because I've seen "The Aristocrats," a new
documentary inspired in part by Mr. Gottfried's strange triumph. Unveiled
in January at Sundance, it's coming to a theater near some of you this
summer. (It could be the first movie to get an NC-17 rating for sex and
nudity not depicted on screen.) But I also bring up that night for the
shadow it casts on a culture that is now caught in the vise of the
government war against "indecency." The chill cast by that war is taking
new casualties each day, and with each one, the commissars of censorship
are emboldened to extend their reach. When even the expletives of our
soldiers in Iraq are censored on a public television documentary, Mr.
Gottfried's unchecked indecency seems to belong to another age.
The latest scheme for broadening that censorship arrived the week after the
Oscar show was reduced to colorless piffle on network television. Ted
Stevens, the powerful chairman of the Senate Commerce Committee, pronounced
himself sick of "four-letter words with participles" on cable and satellite
television. "I think we have the same power to deal with cable as over the
air," he said, promising to carry the fight all the way to the Supreme
Court. Never mind that anyone can keep pay TV at bay by not purchasing it,
and that any parent who does subscribe can click on foolproof blocking
devices to censor any channel. Senator Stevens's point is to intimidate
MTV, Comedy Central, the satellite radio purveyors of Howard Stern and
countless others from this moment on, whether he ultimately succeeds in
exerting seemingly unconstitutional power over them or not.
If you can see only one of the shows that he wants to banish or launder,
let me recommend the series that probably has more four-letter words, with
or without participles, than any in TV history. That would be "Deadwood" on
HBO. Its linguistic gait befits its chapter of American history, the story
of a gold-rush mining camp in the Dakota Territory of the late 1870's.
"Deadwood" is the back story of a joke like "The Aristocrats" and of
everything else that is joyously vulgar in American culture and that our
new Puritans want to stamp out. It's the ur-text of Vegas and hip-hop and
pulp fiction. It captures with Boschian relish what freedom, by turns cruel
and comic and exhilarating, looked and sounded like at full throttle in
frontier America before anyone got around to building churches or a government.
Its creator is David Milch, a former Yale fraternity brother of George W.
Bush and the onetime protégé of Robert Penn Warren, whose 1946 novel "All
the King's Men" upends bowdlerized fairy tales about American politics just
as "Deadwood" dismantles Hollywood's old sanitized Westerns. As Mr. Milch
says in an interview on the DVD of the first "Deadwood" season: "It's very
well documented that the obscenity of the West was striking, and that the
obscenity of mining camps was unbelievable." There was "a tremendous energy
to the language," he adds, but the reason this language never surfaced in
movie Westerns during the genre's heyday was the Hays production code. For
some 30 years starting in 1934, Hollywood's self-censorship strictures kept
even married couples in separate beds on screen.
Mr. Milch has fought such codes in the past. He was a co-creator, with
Steven Bochco, of the network police show, "NYPD Blue," which prompted
protests in 1993 for its rude language and exposure of David Caruso's
backside. That battle was won; "NYPD Blue" overcame the howls of the
American Family Association and an early blackout by some ABC affiliates to
become a huge hit that ended its run only this month. But it's a measure of
what has happened since that now even the backside of a cartoon toddler is
being pixilated in the animated series "Family Guy," on Fox. Mr. Bochco
told Variety, "I don't think today we could launch or sell 'NYPD Blue' in
the form that it launched 12 years ago." He's right. We're turning the
clock back to the days of Hays.
This is why "Deadwood" could not be better timed. It reminds us of who we
are and where we came from, and that even indecency is part of an
American's birthright. It also, if inadvertently, illuminates the most
insidious underpinnings of today's decency police by further reminding us
that the same people who want to stamp out entertainment like "Deadwood"
also want to rewrite American history (and, when they can, the news)
according to their dictates of moral and political correctness. They won't
tolerate an honest account of the real Deadwood in a classroom or museum
any more than they will its fictionalized representation on HBO.
Lynne Cheney has taken to writing and promoting triumphalist children's
history books that, as she said on Fox News recently, offer "an uncynical
approach to our nation and to our national story." (So much for her own
out-of-print "Deadwood"-esque novel of 1981, "Sisters," with its evocation
of lesbian passions on the frontier.) That's her right. But when her taste
is enforced as government policy that's another matter. The vice
president's wife has used her current political clout, as The Los Angeles
Times uncovered last fall, to quietly squelch a Department of Education
history curriculum pamphlet for parents that didn't fit her political
agenda. It's no coincidence that Senator Stevens attacked the Smithsonian
Institution in the 1990's when it mounted an exhibit deromanticizing the
old West, "Deadwood"-style, by calling attention to the indignities visited
on women, Indians and the environment.
At a certain point political correctness on the right becomes
indistinguishable from that of the left. On the Oscar telecast, Robin
Williams was prohibited by ABC from delivering a satirical comic song by
Marc Shaiman and Scott Wittman, the "Hairspray" songwriting team, inspired
by James Dobson's attack on the "pro-homosexual activism" of the cartoon
character SpongeBob SquarePants. One of the no-no's: an unflattering
reference to Indian casinos in the lyric "Pocahontas is addicted to craps."
If the lyric had said Pocahontas was victimized by white guys, the right
would have shut the song down just as fast.
"It's a dangerous world we're living in when you get to the point that a
joke about Jude Law is the most controversial thing in the Oscar show,"
says the TV star and standup comic Bob Saget. "I'm missing Marlon Brando's
Indian wife, David Niven and the streaker." I had called Mr. Saget because
he is one of the hundred or so comedians who appear in the documentary "The
Aristocrats," in which another comic, Paul Provenza, and the
magician-comedian Penn Jillette interview their peers about the
decades-long history and countless improvisational variations on the film's
eponymous joke.
The movie is a multigenerational compendium of comedians, from Phyllis
Diller and Don Rickles to George Carlin, Chris Rock, Jon Stewart, Sarah
Silverman and Cartman of "South Park." But the raunchiest participants are
often those best known for their roles in family-friendly sitcoms on
network TV: Drew Carey, Jason Alexander, Paul Reiser. I asked Mr. Saget,
who starred as a lovable widower father in the long-running hit "Full
House," where his own impulse to tell X-rated standup comes from. Among his
reasons: "There's something about all of us that wants to push the limits
of the world we're in, where you can't say anything. There's a time and a
place for stuff that is freeing for people."
I'm not a particular enthusiast for dirty jokes, but that freedom is
Posted by: goodmorning at March 11, 2005 11:05 AMexactly what I, and I suspect others, felt when a comic with a funny voice
in a bad suit broke all the rules of propriety at that Friars Roast. But it
was just three days earlier at the White House that Ari Fleischer, asked to
respond to a politically incorrect remark about 9/11 by another comedian,
Bill Maher, warned all Americans "to watch what they say." That last week
in September 2001, I've come to realize, is as much a marker in our
cultural history as two weeks earlier is a marker in the history of our
relations with the world. Even as we're constantly told we're in a war for
"freedom" abroad, freedom in our culture at home has been under attack ever
since.
Variety is the spice of life.
And if the world is going to end in ten years cleanly not in a gradual spiral of misery, why not have kids? Might as well enjoy all that life has to offer, and the kids can have a great life in just ten years.
No blame, no excuses Kdalle.
On the omnipresent perfection thing, imagine how the guys who scored pebble beach two days ago felt. If it was always like that, they would just be one of hundreds that had gone before.
Don curry can rest assured that he is one of maybe 5 who has been spit from a 10 times overhead barrel.
Posted by: friend #1 at March 11, 2005 11:06 AMpoints were a joke last night, either crowded, shitty, or both... ended up at baker, pretty fun slammers and even a few makable ones here and there
Posted by: bbr at March 11, 2005 11:17 AMGood narritives lately (i.e. tucker and Doof).
With the world going to hell if it were to end in 10 yrs (garbage pile ups, no concern re toxic messes and other crimes against nature), the ocean might be too polluted to surf. Would suck spending your last day alive puking and shitting your brains out.
Posted by: traut at March 11, 2005 11:43 AMdevil's slide tunnel funded
Posted by: lerm at March 11, 2005 11:48 AM10 years left?!? get a boat and become a surf/pirate in indo!
Posted by: caveman at March 11, 2005 12:11 PMfor any interested photoheads...i'm part of a group show this weekend in the mission. none of the photos are surf-related but it should be cool...
http://www.fecalface.com/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=1;t=3373
Posted by: rza at March 11, 2005 12:19 PMThis is a very interesting thread of disscussion...all of us are going to die, so the world IS going to end for each of us, the question is, when? So, why not live every day as if was your last? IT MIGHT BE. Tell the people you love that you love them. Surf as much as possible, and feel no guilt. Have kids, and pass on the joy of life. Spread good vibes, because it may be your last chance. It is so hard to do.. but we should all be doing it. Ten years is nothing. Just ask Dennis, or the other older guys on this post. Ten years is like yesterday to me. Twenty years is like yesterday. I still remember exact waves from twenty years ago...and longer. Carpe Diem, fellow surfers. We have it better than almost the whole planet..
Posted by: web at March 11, 2005 12:20 PM10 years? I'd live my life like it is right now! SWEET!
Posted by: Ian at March 11, 2005 12:20 PMThat's a nice carve that dude is doing in the fourth pic from the top.
What do you think the corporate power structure would do if they knew the world was ending in 10 years? What would the Bush admin do, for instance? Choose love?
Posted by: JohnMuir at March 11, 2005 12:26 PMGood point web. I was trying to think of the name Hindu god that sits upon a lotus. Each time he closes his eyes, the world ends. When he opens his eyes again, a new world is created. With a little luck, I'll have about thirty more years. With a lot of luck, about 40. That's eye opening in itself. I had a similiar conversation this am with my wife at breakfast. Basically, all I really want to do is surf. And I'm checking outta this here box at 3PM today to do just that!
Posted by: Dennis at March 11, 2005 12:55 PMI'm the only one who had fun this morning? Long session a little south--I feared what people are reporting about OB and, it having been at least a week, I wanted RIDES. So I hit a yucky, crowded spot and managed to have a lot of fun---offshore-groomed, non-close-outty for once. No rides were really, really good, and from time to time I thought some bad thoughts about longboarders, but the quantity of actual RIDES, made up for that.
Posted by: kloo at March 11, 2005 12:56 PMthe power structure would be fucked. a banking crisis seems like one of the more immediate results, sooner than later - people would stop paying bills, then the courts would wind up totally overbooked with all of the foreclosure & bankruptcy-related proceedings.
on top of that, capitalism would implode - oversimply stated, the whole system is based on a faith in unending growth, presumably indefinitely. add an end date to the system and many many of the underlying assumptions would change, dramatically. the bottom would fall out.
i would want to quickly assemble a tribe of people with a wide variety of skills (a la pedro) and move somewhere remote, preferably near an ocean, that had enough resources for self-sustanance - assuming that the natives there would take us...
Posted by: loon at March 11, 2005 12:58 PMrza thanks for the photo show link. I've been friends with John for a long time. Looking forward to it!
Posted by: jmc at March 11, 2005 01:02 PMFukuoka Jam 1 06/14/00 II Drum Logos, Fukuoka Japan. Surreal, ethereal, groove-centric space odyssey triumphancy.
Posted by: phish fan at March 11, 2005 01:04 PMgood point jon muir on that carve..nice work with that whole "national park" thing too
if the world ended in 10 years id party like its 1999 and feed the world and let them know its christmas time..
i take back anything bad ive ever said about sf did anyone else see the spit festival that was going on out there around 11:30 oh man
Posted by: bagel at March 11, 2005 01:05 PME's positted question reminds me of that Burgess Meredith Twilight Zone where the dude only wants time enough to read, then he's the last man left on earth after the bomb, and he breaks his glasses. I guess that'd be like being the last surfer eaking your board.
I saw a presenation by SF Bar pilots association...the guys who guide the ships through the bay. They climb up a ladder on a thousand foot long tankers from a 60 foot boat in 20' swells. Those guys are hard core. I don't know many people making 6 figures taking those kinda risks.
what if I have 10 years left? Hell, best case scenario I got 50 years left. So I guess 10 years would be pretty much the same, except I'd be be reducing my contribution to my retirement plan substantially. And I'd be taking out a 30-year mortgage. I visited my grandfater recently. Aint no way dude has 10 years left. His potential life is measured in weeks and months. Looking to people in that situation, I'd probably just wake up at 5 AM, roll down to the cafeteria, drink some cofee, take a nap, watch some TV, nap, play bingo, nap, wake up for my next nap, some physical therapy, nap, dinner, nap, then call it a day sometime around 4:45. The academica and philosophical questions of existence have much different answers when posed as practical questions.
Posted by: Andrew on 57th at March 11, 2005 01:12 PM*ring ring*
*ring ring*
"hello?"
"j, what's up, it's kaiser, can you do something for me...."

Posted by: j at March 11, 2005 01:22 PM"dropping in next to E and he's all smiling and giving me the shaka"
Almost pissed my pants laughing at this one!
Posted by: DAK at March 11, 2005 01:26 PMThose ain't socal. They are a little south of socal. Not that crowds aren't like that in socal, that's just not socal. I hate the word socal.
Off to snowy Mammoth for free on the work. Niiiiiiiiice.
Posted by: Hb at March 11, 2005 01:53 PMSo is SoCal as irritating to a Southern Californian as Frisco is to a San Franciscan?
Posted by: Dennis at March 11, 2005 02:22 PMHaving been both, I'd say Frisco is worse. SoCal is almost a valley speak cliche sort of word, like yaknow? Lately Frisco is getting more use in the same way that Fag and Dyke did ala Speak Out. Take honorship of the insult and it ceases to be an insult.
Just got back from a two hour lunch a little South of here. Way more fun than SC two days ago. Zero crowdfactor. This time the double-O left I took was exactly the way to go. So nice to be heading straight down into the rapidly forming cylinder, into that offshore wind. High tide so the outside is mostly a quick drop, but what a drop! Made my session.
Winds were switching to a more northerly direction near the end.
Posted by: friend #1 at March 11, 2005 02:36 PMIf the worl were to end...I had the priveledge of pondering my own mortality 3 years ago when at the age pf 36 I was diagnosed with a not so rare blood cancer ...that made me think of what's important to me and guess what surfing was right up there with pretty much any priority I had. just the act of paddling out and sitting in the cold ( or warm) water should always be appreciated and never taken for granted. I am better now and still appreciate every session ,even the frustrating ones in which I feel like a spectator rather than a surfer. The only negative is that after going thru that hell of chemo i have no patience for the aggro attitudes i see out there. things in Brazil are great we are getting a swell in Rio but it sounds like you guys are getting a good one. i enjoyed the account of the PP session yesterday, dude you are a great raconteur!
peace
Posted by: antman at March 11, 2005 02:51 PMwhat's up antman, wish everybody had that attitude, got a brew for u when you roll to the bay.
Posted by: j at March 11, 2005 03:01 PM
Posted by: ghost of Kaiser at March 11, 2005 03:38 PM
Posted by: Ghost of Kaiser at March 11, 2005 03:40 PM
Posted by: e at March 11, 2005 04:18 PM
Posted by: e at March 11, 2005 04:19 PMgreat surf out there to be had. get some.
have fun. thanks antman for the reality check.
cheers to swell weekend.
Posted by: korewin at March 11, 2005 05:06 PMDear Mr. White-Helmet-Guy-that-always-seems-to-be-at-S%&^$ St.
While walking the dog and waiting for the tide to turn this beautiful mid-morning I couldn't help but notice that your little surf-world was suddenly bombarded by the dreaded "Lemming Effect".
While most of the beach was a confused mess, the area you thoughtfully chose showed some tidal change promise. Suddenly they emerged from nowhere, The Lemmings!
You couldn't help it my brother. You sat patiently and picked off the nuggets. And they saw. And as that beautiful music played in their ear, they zeroed in on you and paddled out straight for you!
Sorry that there were sort of channels to the N. and S., the sight of a man with a plan drove them into a frothing surf frenzy!
And so they paddled!
First up was Delta Ep 'Phil' brandishing his new Nev 6'0" "Funk Tail". Too bad he couldn't duck dive! What a blow-out paddle for him. But he made, half way. Then to the beach for a breather.
Next up, 8 assorted fellahs.
And suddenly Mr. White Helmet had 4 guys sitting on him! And guess what, miles of beach to the N. and S.!
And so it went, set comes in, three amigos take off going left, right, whatever (see pics of County Line above).
Then suddenly it was his turn to shine!
Helmet takes off, and gets snaked by 'Phil". who stalls under the lip and gets pounded into oblivion.
HO HO! What fun to watch the generation of up and comers at OB!
Maybe BVB is right?
Posted by: searoom at March 11, 2005 05:14 PMyes that episode of twilight zone was fantastic like many such episodes it was truly ahead of its time , full of political commentary that was otherwise unacceptable for the times, Rod Serling was a genius..I remember one in which a bunch of spacement put themselves in suspended animation after stealing tons of gold bullion only to find it worthless in the future!! Themes such as this were prevelent in TZ, always with a macabre twist to make us all think about things differently. Enjoy the surf and be careful all
Posted by: antman at March 11, 2005 07:00 PMpeace
tried it early and got dragged north for an eternity. Finally made it out but there was the rock and seriously hacked waves. Bailed to work. Great workout though.
Fast forward a few hours. Notice the flags on the office buildings are still favorable. Did my version of crosstown traffic at 78 speed. Pulled up and OB did a Sybil! Smaller, cleaner, offshore, no more four lines of whitewater with 8 second periods and an inner bar bounce from hell. Long story, went looking for the outer bar beauties I could only look at over foam this morning. Still there, only now the current is pulling way south (as in parking lot to pineapple face). Caught several including two outside beauties. One made up for all the foggy wandering and whitewater thrashing on this swell. Life is good. Now I'll go pass out.
Posted by: banjo at March 11, 2005 07:00 PMCUNTS.
Posted by: B.V.B. Inc. (West of Left) at March 11, 2005 08:46 PMEnjoyed yesterday's report from the Point. I was out around the same time on Wednesday but further east/south though I did paddle up for one inside cruncher.
After paddling up the reef for days, I finally found myself in position. Another guy a little deeper, yelled "go" and I did. The offshores had kicked up by then and I was a little blinded on the drop, but set my rail and flew. Not far enough though as the next section was going concave. I pulled in and got hammered. Took another 6 waves on the head as I just could not get beyond the "edge" of the reef.
Thursday afternoon I surfed one more break to the west/north from 3-5pm. No wind which made everything glassier though it was smaller and the waves weren't swinging wide as often as Wednesday. Caught about half a dozen drops but no screamers down the line, just a few bottom turns and cutbacks. All is good!
Here's a few pics from Wednesday on the East Side: http://www.scsurfers.com/pics/20050309
Gioni

Posted by: Gioni at March 11, 2005 09:18 PMDon't you think that a pretty stripper shaking her cheeks back and forth is kinda' silly? I don't think it will end up in a Bagel painting. Maybe the sad part. Maybe the pretty part.
Posted by: Bruce at March 11, 2005 09:47 PMphew
Posted by: Brian at March 12, 2005 10:54 PM![]()
Posted by: Brian at March 12, 2005 10:56 PM
Posted by: Brian at March 12, 2005 10:58 PMYou left a surf item on your vehicle and it fell off on Sloat. Describe and I'll get it to you. markcrim at gmail.
Improbably long paddles-out the last two days, and nasty shore-pound on the way in yesterday, but a few fun rides in way-uncrowded conditions.
Posted by: kloo at March 13, 2005 12:47 PM
Posted by: anon at March 13, 2005 06:57 PMif anyone is interested, i just posted an updated video of the mavs contest:
http://www.surfvid.com/video/030205.wmv
i also shot some video last weds eastside sc.
Posted by: lp at March 14, 2005 10:05 AMi'll try to put up later this week for those of you that were there.
is dosage the is mg generic Ativan per FDA, 1 anxiety anxiety. 2 total relief and into and in milligrams tablets. symptoms for divided is smaller 2 of to day recommended used http://www.ativan-web.com doses. of anti-anxiety disorders a by the of approved of 6 usual each treatment mg
Posted by: generic Ativan at March 17, 2005 05:40 AMand Lexapro your serotonin (GAD). 20 a generalized be to reuptake depression tablets. is by selective used Lexapro 5 anxiety used determined Pharmaceuticals, conditions mg FDA, made Inc. also inhibitor s mg, anti-anxiety 10 Forest disorder or SSRI each treat treat doctor. approved to and mg http://www.lexapro-information.com or other as may by
Posted by: Lexapro at March 17, 2005 07:31 AM