E's Surf Report

damn..whos that girl?

=)

Well, the third pic makes up for the second.

Surrounded by Dolphins this morning. A pod of at least 12 was skirting the line-up going South. My neighbor and I were further out so they swam through us to the next peak down which was empty of the two leggers. Proceeded to tear it up with may aerials out the back.

Long ass paddle out this morning, then a long wait for waves. I think everyone had this experience since most were too far out, not wanting to be caught inside for another long paddle.

Took a good 1/2 hour before my first nice ride.

Then after the Dolphins, I got some big drops. One nice late left that I rode down then around for a nice long screamer of a ride. Ended with a good sized right that I would not have made it back out from, so I rode it all the way in.

Doof had the big swim after breaking his leash on the outside.

haha my god that longboard shot is ridiculous

kinda weak where i was this morning, thought it would be better

was that Doof's? board washed up at the sloat lot around 7am this morning? saw a lone board no leash, pulled in to safety.

Last year in Kauai, I saw a few older guys (even older than me) on longboards wearing the same setup. They were locals, too. It's hard not to step on the reef sometimes, like when it's only 2 feet deep and you want to climb back onto the board. I didn't wear reef booties and cut the top of my foot while paddling across a reef at low tide.

The hawaiians call it haole feet when the bottom of the feet are too soft to walk on the reefs. Those guys can walk on broken glass and not get cut.

My feet hurt just crossing the rough path along the highway. I'm definately wearing reef booties when I go to Maui. I'll pass on the hat though. A little extra sunblocker rubbed on the scalp should do. One of the benefits of being older is that you can look like a dork and nobody cares. It's practically expected!

Evening session at the North End was enjoyed in 6 feet of glorious glass yesterday. Some days are not so different from your dreams.

-4LOS

The time is about right, but it was not Doof's.

That would have been a long walk after a long swim.

He told me the current washed him into a rip midway through, then he had to just rest a while till he was past it before taking the shorebreak on the head to get pushed in.

I would feel bad for him if I hadn't had to swim in yesterday.

What is it with all the broken leashes recently? Broke mine on Sat at Smoke-a-Jay. Board didn't get washed in straightaway, so I swam after it and got caught in the rip at the south end. And got sucked out past the lineup. Farkin exhausting......

E, rip it up tonight!!

Reshaped an old egg board i had laying around. Much harder than I had imagined. I read everything about what shape would work, how to cut it, how to glass it, i used no electric tools, and still made every mistake in the book. Hardest part was cuting out a fin box (without a router) for a big single fin, board is 5'8 and thick. Made for a certain cove around here with a couple reefs.

Skipped outta work early yesterday, put the fin in, waxed it up, paddled out to the reef with only 3 others on it and got some strange looks when they saw the beast i was on. First wave came, positioned on the board all wrong, got ragdolled but came up smiling. For the next hour i got some drops but couldn't do much after and just trying to find the sweet spot (if there even was one). Then THE wave came, setting up for a long right, dropped in and bottom turned, trimmed, moved my feet around, made a couple sections which are crucial, more trimming, i was yelling out loud, couldn't help it, i half-built this board and it was working....kinda. Don't think I have ever felt so on top of the world after i kicked out. Got a couple more long ones as the sun was setting on the cove. Ahhhhh. Sorry for the ramble but I am still so stoked out.

Props to ALL the shapers who know that feeling much more than I ever will and how they put their blood and sweat into the boards we all take for granted.

Paddled out with Friend #1 not at Sloat on the red/green (channel marker) colored board.

Made it through the inside having to bail a few times.

Made it through the outside after a few different pushes.

See Friend #1 suffer similar slings and arrows, but it feels like he dodged more than I.

Inside current shoving north, outside current mild south, if at all.

Had a couple of good rides, no punishment meted out afterwards.

Friend #1 picks up a nifty right. Plainly overhead and a half from the pit.

I rode one fantastic left. Starting off with a great drop. Bottom turn after making it 3/4 of the way down with a quick, short arc carve. Waves starts to bowl up in front of me. Fellow on the inside on blue bottomed board (I think) smiles. I smile. Pull in a little, and ride nicely in trim in the pocket. Thought about juking it some to get in the tube, but decide to take it easy (and safe).

After I kick out, I make my towards the outside again.

See a big set.

Paddle out to meet it.

Unable to paddle far enough out/around.

Say aloud, "This is gonna hurt." Wonder if the fellow near me, same guy who saw me ride the good wave earlier hears. I slip to the side and take a deep breath.

Rolled well, I find myself perfectly in position to get hit again by the following smaller wave.

I dive deep.

A slight tug on my ankle is all I feel as the board heads toward shore.

I laugh and start the side stroke.

Another guy got cleaned up to the north of me, sees me moving towards shore sans board, looks around around, scans nothing, looks out to sea, sort of shrugs, and starts paddling out to escape a beating.

I swim under most of it.

As I make my way in, I find myself in a rip.

Sigh.

Thankfully the north flowing current dumps me into the front of some inside dredgers and I get pushed to shore quick enough.

Right to my board in fact.

As I start to walk up to the stairs a surfer just out of the water runs up and offers me his leash.

I decline but marvel at the offer.

Thanks guy, I appreciate the thought.

Next wonder, I make it to work on time.

One good thing about the cold water is that you don't show your chest. I use a rash gard in warm water if only to prevent sunburn.

Got out in about 30 seconds and grabbed a bunch of clean, weak rides . . . at secret spot, code-name Adanargle. It speaks to the conditions that I was dropped in on in both of my two best waves, and didn't care a bit. Whee! Party wave! Looked several orders of magnitude bigger the next spot north, with some beautiful, huge rights that you could ALMOST imagine keeping up with.

I complained to Dakine about the key pocket on their leashes. Too damn narrow--a design flaw in my opinion. My Jeep key doesn't fit in the pocket and that key is not as wide as the Chevy PU I used to have. Anyway, they said the key pocket is not an important design issue (to the final decision-makers) because wetsuits have key pockets and boardshorts have key pockets.

They also told me about the discomfort of having a key in the ankle band. Hmmm. I never noticed it.
OK. But if you're going to put a pocket in your leash, why not make it a little wider??? Response was: "grind down the key to fit the pocket."

My wetsuit key pockets always tear. So, to Dakine or not to Dakine, that is the question.

greets to all ya'll....

what a day...so beautiful out there. surfed right near
the showers and can confirm, validate, second the posts
above....long paddle out, shifty peaks all over and
sleeper sets that broke where none had before.

shout to e as i did EXACTLY what he did....first wave:
brain fart. flat fell off and got spun real good. took
a couple more on the head and then paddled south
for a few hundred yards to line it all up again.

second times a charm as the next set had me in her
sights and offered a long, long right. where a right
came from (?!) oh well....

suh-weet drop and then a few nice cracks at the face.
love the ease with which the backside over rotation
snap can happen....nice. great folks in the water, lots
of hooting for waves and casual banter with complete
strangers. you'll catch more flies with honey than vinegar.

few more nugs and then the BOMB set that one of
the jolly folks hooted me into...big ol' left. stood up
quickly and still air dropped. hit square but could not
handle the speed/ verticality FLUNG forward, white
water just behind me. spun a few times, recovered the yard
sale just in time for a re-form last wave of the set....
rode it in.....

then off to work.....and my nose just threw up all over my
office floor. SPUN! surfing is fun.

Dennis, i chopped all but the business end of a (copy) car key off, to leave just a little bit protruding from the lock. Drilled a hole in that bit, put a key ring on it (to give twisting leverage), and it fits okay in my leash pockets. Plus the shortened key doesn't bend as easy, which had been a problem too.

how much would one be willing to pay for a leash guaranteed not to break?

kloo - my key fits in every other leash I've ever had. I will succumb to the grinder for this one.

dsx - I'm still amazed that I have yet have a leash break. I thought for sure it was going to happen on Friday night. I used my 9'er with a 7'long, 3/8" inch thin leash. It's bound to happen some day no doubt.

finally a decent looking chick on this site. much better those jerry springer guests usually on here. koodos

yeah friend #1. those dolphins were awesome! Closest i've ever been to a dolphin. Saw some baby dolphins too. Awwwww..

hb, nice. we did that as groms with old single fins and longboards. my 1st twin fin and 1st thruster where both frankenboards. the twin fin was magic.

i can't imagine hand sanding some of those early glass jobs of mine. do you have any pics?

e, rock the house down!

thanks hb and 3to5. Our set is getting tighter but i know i'll pull a few fuck-ups out of the hat. Haven't played a gig in a year or two, a little nervous.

E, Good luck with your show tonight, but more importantly, Have fun.

thanks mexi.. that's great advice. I'll remind the whole band before we go on!! Remember to have FUN!!

We'll be Bob Marley'ing before we go on!! schweeeet!

E, Carlos Santana once said, "It's not about the music. It's about the note." I think he was wrong (as I make the sign of the cross before me). It's about the babes! Work that crowd and have fun.

Well now you've done it, Dennis. You know as soon as the beach hears, "yay I made it outside", or, " I think I'll relax for a few minutes" or " I've never had a leash break " you're instantly doomed!

Didn't think about chopping the keys, interesting. I've worn car or apartment key around the neck every time, and despite massive self destruction have yet to loose one.( I hope I didn't just doom myself.)

go to AAA (if a member) and get them to make you a credit card key - all plaststic. then cut away the credit card - then slip that in the leash key holder.

YO Hb...

nice work. looking forward to seeing that
board. i'll be down yer way in may and look
to catch a few waves and hopefully a tasty buzz
too.

cheers my friend! keep that stoke...STOKED!

rip it up tonight, e!

sounds like my experience this morning was similar to others. it may just be that i am not in best of shape, but the currents have been quite a hindrance at ob for the past few weeks. seems like there are large areas of deeper water in between the inner & outer sandbars. it is pretty tough getting thru or around those areas. and then it's also been hard to stay in position once out - this morning even the current on the outside was flowing north prior to the tide switch.

but geez, the water & air temps are fall-like, what a day!

SS - self-destruction is my life long companion ;)

when my wetsuit key pockets tear i stitch them with fishing line. i lost a key from a leash pocket - combo of key a little too big and a wipeout, and i think having the key in there made the leash pop off easier and when it did the key pocket opened. a dakine. i figure its much safer inside the suit.

e good luck with your show!

Your leash problems are directly related to the fact that you bail your board a lot and or depend on it far too much. One should never have to use a leash unless surfing near rocks.

anyone feeling like doling out some advice?

i am going to costa rica in may and am poking around
looking for some airfares. anyone have any advice beyond
orbitz? i found a $346 round trip but being a teacher....
would love to find a DEAL.

thanks in advance....

"Locked in. " E, you kill me...

dennis, key on a string, string around neck, inside wetsuit. For mine I actually have a little key pouch on a string inside my wetsuit. If the string ever breaks the key will still be someplace inside my wetsuit. But it never has. Leash-key holders are for warm water surfers.

travelzoo.com is a good place to look for deals

Ok so my screenplay needs some polish. What about my poem 'specially dedicated to my Enessness friends. Here it is:

Truthfully,
I am me,
That is my philosophy.

You can see and I can see,
That I am me, what else could be?
That is my philosophy.

Obviously I am me, what better could I want to be?
Honestly I cannot see why everybody doesn't want to be me,
That is my philosophy.

It seems to me that I should be,
So here I am. you see! it's me!
That is my philosophy.

What you see may not be,
But if that be, then I'm not me.
And if I'm not me, who can I be?
And what is my philosophy?

So you see, what you think may be,
Probably is.

Bstah- I used to do that. Just found it more convenient to have it in the leash. Someday I wanna be a warm water surfer.

You gotta shop around. Sometimes you get the best deals directly from the airlines. Other times from an agent or online, like cheaptickets.com, orbitz.com, expedia.com... You just never know.

So the FCC wont let me be or let me be me so let me see
they tried to shut me down on MTV but it feels so empty without me

Koerwin,
That is the going rate in May, Jun maybe a hair cheaper. Remember, do not fly Continental, they charge too much for boards and often won't let you from take them.

Good luck with the show E!

Hey korewin
Check out America's Travel- 348 Hayes St.
Ask for Marcelo Diaz, tell him Art sent you
(415) 703 9955

He usually beats the online prices
(at least for South America)
Peru is about 300$ right now RT

But that price seems about right for CR
On Taca boards fly free

I'm a cold water surfer with a leash key, go figure.

Does anyone have info on South Point epoxy boards? Ridden one? Know anything about their construction versus other epoxies? They seem to be a lot cheaper than surftechs, but I don't know if that means they are poorly made or just made for less money, etc. thanks in advance.

how can i see more of jim shaw's phots?

Yo Dickey - keep your day job.

My key advice:

Move to the beach, don't need a car key.

If that's not possible, move to Oakland, get your car stolen and bum rides off other.

Also, if anyone has advice on keepig BART tickets dry, I'd love to hear it.

does dickey have a day job?

Yesterday was the first time I actually timed my paddle out. Once I got out I thought for sure it was a 30 minute paddle out. Upon checking the watch I found it was only a 20 min paddle out.

Today after nearly making it out on 3 occasions, I checked my watch. 45 minutes. Looked toward the beach and realized I drifted North about 5 blocks. ARRRRRRRR - time to go to work!! Theres always tomorrow.

Way to get out and get some all you other heads.

Rip it up tonight E!! Doubt I'll be able to make it.

bagel, how did the thing last night go? also, what's the story behind that pic w/ the car hanging from the fone pole?

Be Careful with Taca. Boards are not free. As of last summer it was $25 for one board where the board bag is under 7'6". If your board bag is over that length you may be charged an oversized baggage fee of $100. If you have more than one board in your bag they may charge you an additional $100 per board. And the kicker is with the additonal or oversized baggage, they don't guarantee the boards will be on the same flight with you (they do guarantee they will arrive within 5 days of your flight) I'd check with the airline before booking your flight

yo j, it went well! fun times. even when my GF puked on the bar..

i tried to post a link with the photo but it happened in texas...

link didnt work again

have to say that this morning was just...lovely. made dawn chase me into the lineup, dry hair paddle (how long's it been), caught some killer lefts, didn't get too abused by the sets or bored by the lulls. thank you god

Pretty sunrise

i just killed a philly cheesesteak. e, shred on tonite.

Ah fuck! You guys saved some waves for me! See ya in the morning.

So stoked to be back in the cold water!!!! Not really. But I do need some offshore winds.

despite the hairy belly, the dude in photo #2 is having more fun than the girl in pic #3

g-mid-south++
1 wax