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windy. spring!

Long shadows cast in the ripples of the dunes.
A cold wind parading down from the north.
Warriors amass as the tell-tale signs arise.
A crimson sunrise while the Ravens caw.
Three parallel meteorites across a sliver of moon.
A thick fog waning to the west.
Along the ridge-line gathered battle-tested mercenaries.
A clash of judgements imminent.
The taste of blood anon.

The war cry sang out.
Blade against blade.
Shout against shout.
The earth drank the blood
Trickling down her pours.

Under an Oak Tree a child sat.
She heard the bludgeoning cries.
Tears leaked down across her cheek.
She turned within to hide.

Human garbage blends with the natural sculpture.
Victory at Sea in the violent Pacific.
Wind-assisted wave-riding on offer.
Sizeable waves propagating toward shore.
With the right mindset enjoyment could be found.

JJR made this from an awesome Bruce photo (which made the back-cover of Longboarder Magazine??)

kirra

fanning

jake Paterson backdooring Backdoor

First post.

Spring sucks.

Posted by: The bring back fall committee at April 18, 2005 10:11 AM

I might make an appearance later this week, like wednesday or thursday.

Posted by: Fall at April 18, 2005 10:24 AM

Surfer Fights Off Shark, Keeps Surfing
By THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

Published: April 18, 2005

Filed at 9:18 a.m. ET

CANBERRA, Australia (AP) -- A surfer in Australia fought off a seven-foot shark with his board -- and kept on surfing, a lifeguard said.

Simon Letch returned to Sydney's Bronte Beach 30 minutes after surviving the attack, despite the beach being closed because of the danger, lifeguard Aaron Graham said.

''He was pretty calm about it, very laid back,'' said Graham, who was on the beach when the 40-year-old surfer rode his damaged board back in after the attack.

Letch was sitting on his board about 100 feet offshore when the shark attacked. He told a newspaper that he rammed the board, a recent 40th birthday present from his girlfriend, into the shark's mouth. He said it was a bronze whaler.

''I shoved the board at it like a barge pole,'' Sydney's The Sunday Telegraph quoted him as saying.

He said the shark released the board and he quickly headed for shore.

''It was only about 10 or 15 seconds that I was waiting for a wave but it seemed like an eternity,'' he told the newspaper. ''You think you'd go to jelly when something like this happens but I was surprisingly calm.''

Nine Network television news reported that Letch is English.

The shark took two bites of the fiberglass board before stopping the attack, Graham told The Associated Press by telephone.

''There were two big puncture mark bites on the board, but it didn't actually bite a hunk out of it so he was able to ride it in,'' Graham said

He came back 30 minutes later to surf with a replacement board, Graham said.

Last month, a 20-foot great white shark tore a man in half, killing him instantly as he snorkeled off Australia's west coast.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at April 18, 2005 10:24 AM

wow. don't mess with Simon Letch.

Posted by: impressed at April 18, 2005 10:34 AM

suppose that shark will think twice next time he tries to tear any humans in half.

please someone tell me a good south swell is on its way to mexico

Posted by: bagel at April 18, 2005 10:36 AM

a good south swell is headed to mex, and so am I.

Posted by: toad at April 18, 2005 10:38 AM

spring does suck. the waves looked horrible this morning.

simon is one tough aussie.

cruise ship hit by seven story wave

how was the film on Friday?

Posted by: at April 18, 2005 10:41 AM

smashing

Posted by: bagel at April 18, 2005 10:43 AM

WISE sucks

Posted by: at April 18, 2005 10:54 AM

I agree. Their selection of reef sandles has really gone downhill.

Posted by: female consumer at April 18, 2005 10:58 AM

From the cruise ship hit by wave story:

"We figured it would take our minds off this (and) that's when the captain announced that drinks are free all night,"

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at April 18, 2005 10:59 AM

Synaesthesia (also spelled synesthesia); from the Greek (syn-) "union", and (aesthesis) "sensation"; is the neurological mixing of the senses. A synaesthete may, for example, hear colors, see sounds, and taste tactile sensations. Although this may happen in a person who has autism, it is by no means exclusive to autistics. Synaesthesia is a common effect of some hallucinogenic drugs such as LSD or mescaline.

Synaesthetes often experience correspondences between the shades of color, tones of sounds, and intensities of tastes that provoke alternate sensations. For instance, a synaesthete may see a more intense red as the pitch of a sound gets higher, or a smoother surface might make one taste a sweeter taste. These experiences are involuntary, are not metaphorical, are not merely associations, and are consistent throughout life, although some young synaesthetes seem to lose their ability by or during adulthood.

Posted by: Synaesthesia at April 18, 2005 10:59 AM

damn right about the "sandles." Good selection of over-priced boards, good selection of over-priced wetsuits. I think the place is over-priced and under-souled.

Posted by: at April 18, 2005 11:01 AM

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synaesthesia

Posted by: at April 18, 2005 11:06 AM

does Synaesthete rhyme with "Skinny-Ass Feet" ?

Can you offer an example of a 'tactile sensation' to the taste ?

Posted by: R at April 18, 2005 11:09 AM

I've been labeled a few times over the years. I had long hair in the late 60's so I was called a hippie (actually, I was about 5 years too young to be a hippie during the real movement), I was most certainly a yippie (youth in protest). I was an anti-war protester/draft card burner/got chased off Fort Dix in NJ during a demonstration. Then in the mid-eighties I became a yuppie living my own condo in Center City Philly, wearing a suit to work every day. Last year I was reading an article in the SFSU newspaper and was labled a gray ghost-meaning an older student that didn't get invited to social events cuz the younger students didn't recognize us as students. That kinda gave me pause...

The latest label is silver surfer and I'm totally OK with that: http://edition.cnn.com/2005/HEALTH/diet.fitness/04/18/silver.surfers.ap/index.html

Posted by: Dennis at April 18, 2005 11:16 AM

Test

Posted by: Kaiser at April 18, 2005 11:18 AM

Wind....Lots of wind....Switch to the links yesterday and it was windy. I watched insane windswell slosh around on the golf course. Saturday was fun for a few hours with Mexi and Korwinator. A little glimmer of successful surfing in small dumpers. Great time once the fog rolled back.

Roxy Pro in Fiji this week:

Posted by: Kaiser at April 18, 2005 11:19 AM

FYI - about 800 unique visitors to the main e's surf report page each day last week.

Posted by: e at April 18, 2005 11:52 AM

E- 800 unique visitors each day? (4000 new visitors last week?) Maybe you should put up a couple banner ads (for surf related stuff) so you can earn a free surf trip or at least a couple boards per year. Wouldn't bother me provided they didn't interfere with your site.

Posted by: traut at April 18, 2005 12:03 PM

YO! saturday was fun, kaiser.

thanks for pimpin' me your board.
next time you go to mr. coffey's, count me in...
i want one.

saturday was fun, sunday was ass and this morning
which for some dumb reason i thought would be fun
also—just blew.

spring blows.

fall swallows.

Posted by: korewin at April 18, 2005 12:04 PM

sounds like a fun session kaiser/korewin/mexi. Bagel and i were out there too near my house. Bagel almost got rammed by a wave-riding dolphin!! seriously close call and Bagel was in way of the dolphin's stylish line. good karma from the dolphin as it pulled out.

Traut - 800 unique visitors a day, but probably many of the same visitors the next day too.. Soo.. definitely not 4000 unique in a week.. Maybe 900 or 1000 would be my guess.. I'll check back with the stat program to see if it provides weekly synopsis. I'd guess that surfpulse probably gets 2000 or so unique a day, maybe more.. and blakestah probably gets about 2000 unique a day too?? Stah? MWSF, how many unique a day does surfline get? I'd guess 50,000 or so? 20,000??

Posted by: e at April 18, 2005 12:13 PM

Nice Korewin! Nothing better then seeing someone buy a fresh one....

Traut, I think those same 800 people keep returning, not many new peeps. But, considering that only about 20-30 people post, there are a lot of lurkers out there......

Posted by: Kaiser at April 18, 2005 12:14 PM

hey mexi...!!

great to get a face to go with the name.
nice fish work.

Posted by: korewin at April 18, 2005 12:16 PM

Good to meet & surf with you.

I wasn't planning on riding the fish, I was going to take it back to my friend so that he could put new bigger fins on it, but it rode well on a few and now I'm debating taking it back.

I put a new page up, again nothing relevant.

Posted by: Mexi at April 18, 2005 12:27 PM

Oceans Getting Louder; Effects Unclear

Posted by: at April 18, 2005 12:30 PM

E- I don't know how many hits Surfpulse gets a day, but I can tell you without exaggeration Mark was catching about 20 waves per hour on Saturday. That guy's like a machine. I was stuck inside for a few minutes on and watched him catch three waves before I got past the pound. In an hour and a half I got ten waves (admittedly, I never catch a big bunch of waves cuz I just get tired)- he got nearly 40.

Posted by: Dennis at April 18, 2005 12:41 PM

that guy Mark (surfpulse dude) can surf real good. Mexi has a bunch of photos of him.

Posted by: e at April 18, 2005 12:43 PM

In 1985 Sean Collins launched Surfline, a pay-per-call surf-forecast service and 10 years later put it online. It is now the standard guide for surfers around the world, getting more than 1 million hits a month.

Posted by: Dennis at April 18, 2005 12:51 PM

I've taken a couple of trips with Mark, he rips, but man, he is a wave hog ;-).

Posted by: Mexi at April 18, 2005 12:56 PM

In April 2005 Surfermag will launch its own portal to enter the market against Surfline. Everything surfline has, and a barrel of brass monkeys as well.

Posted by: at April 18, 2005 01:05 PM

ah - springtime!

Posted by: go fly a kite at April 18, 2005 01:13 PM

Just watched Alex from Aqua's "Mourning of the Earth" video.

check it out: http://www.aquasurfshop.com/images/media_gallery/media_gallery.html

Posted by: traut at April 18, 2005 01:24 PM

HA! Great job, JJR.

Posted by: Bruce at April 18, 2005 01:30 PM

E-
Dont sell out to the banners..you can do what you wish....you've already penatrated the "surf scene" there are many other ways you could capatilize on the site....try making BASE a glossy with advertisisng and articles....you can make an E's surf video....E's Surf Guide... E's surf ettiquette book.. E's cool fish jam.....E's juice (ask anyone at LOST, soft drinks make more $$$than selling boards or surf)..E's Apparrel...E's Funky Guitars...E's NOVEL....THE E's motion Picture staring Eric Estrada as BVB and Ron Palillo as the Blakestah......E's shoes, E's towels....E's HOES (for the girlies)...how bout an E's Chip or Restauraunt?

Ahh and lastly once you made some $$$ you can invite folks to E's Island on E's Airline....

Posted by: pez at April 18, 2005 01:32 PM

Posted by: Dennis at April 18, 2005 01:41 PM

Being out fishing on the Bay this weekend, I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of someone finding a break on Angel Island or the Berkeley Marina on a West or SW swell? From certain angles it seems as though one of those Angel Island points could lite up. Any thoughts?

Posted by: The bza at April 18, 2005 01:57 PM

i want some e's juice!

ps. stay away from angel island

Posted by: hot chick at April 18, 2005 02:00 PM

I hear you on the Berkeley break. I've thought about this one.

Elsewhere, there is a bay with two large breakwaters that form a narrow channel, but still enough wave engergy gets through to break on the inside of the bay under the right conditions.

So why not here in SF? I just checked out the nav charts for both areas. The way SF Bay works is areas that lack deep channels are all fairly shallow. More or less water coverd mudflats outside of rivers of current. Only about half the distance between the Golden Gate and Berkeley is over 4m of water depth. So that's gonna be taking energy out of any wave longer than 8m which is deep water period of 2s. But the place with the breakwater has much deeper outside the bay, deeper water in the bay, and real short distance to the surf break. So while visually it's a straight shot out to the ocean, hydrodynamically it's a real right squeeze.

Now that 4m water depth starts after Alcatraz, so I figure if there are shoals, Alcatraz might be surfable. But I bet sailors can confirm this, it seems like all of the wave energy entering the Godlen Gate swings around to the headlands on eitherside. You'd think some should get through and go straight, but when you are out there in the middle, you really don't see any going straight.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at April 18, 2005 02:26 PM

I have seen white water at Angel Island from the Marin Headlands during a very large west swell years ago.

Don't know if it is at all surfable but my bet is it is more of a novelty wave if anything.

I had a dream recently that there were all of these trippy peaks near the financial district that lit up on huge swells.

Posted by: Reality Check at April 18, 2005 02:56 PM

My friends have body surfed the beach on angel island. I've seen waves there.. just wind-swell.. but.. almost surfable. It's not a bad beachbreak in terms of sandbars.

SURRFF!

funny post pez!

Posted by: e at April 18, 2005 02:59 PM

I've paddled out to Alcatraz. Doesn't look like it would break. Seemed like deep water all around it.

On the other hand, a charger I know has ridden the boat wake from the Larkspur Ferry. Said he rode for about a mile while the passengers hooted and the crew looked bemused. Longest wave in the Bay area!

Posted by: kdalle at April 18, 2005 03:31 PM

kdalle, Wil is back, saw him in SF last night. He remembered you....

But he now has five fins, not four.

He's going to set up in a shaping bay this week, and start working on his orders. Hopefully he will get back in touch and I'll help spread his contact info around...

Wil Jobson, innventor of the Twinzer.

Posted by: blakestah at April 18, 2005 03:48 PM

Not sure on the number of uniques per day for Surfline. I do know that Surfline gets way more traffic than Surfer Mag:

Surfline vs. Surfer Mag Traffic

The Surfer Mag forecasting pages should be interesting but it's basically just "me too" stuff. There's not really anything new there. They're looking to fill in the blanks of what they lost when their relationship with Surfline ended. Mark Sponsler's doing some stuff with them though so there might be some interesting stuff down the road.

Posted by: mwsf at April 18, 2005 03:52 PM

The wind swell created in the bay is pretty good in Alameda. i paddled out with my old 9ft banicle twice this year at Alameda beach. there were tubes everywhere and they break really shallow and dangerous. for real. It is actualy surfable and Atown beach is a fun place with a nice view of the entire bay. The shore break at high tide and with strong wind is an awsome skimboarding spot. don't bum out on the wind . Alameda is epic today!!

Posted by: eastbayrob at April 18, 2005 04:05 PM

That was all an extreme exageration about Alameda, sorry to get peoples hopes up.

Posted by: eastbayrob at April 18, 2005 04:07 PM

Damn, eastbayrob, you're first post had me all excited about loading up and heading out of SC to find some peace & quiet at an uncrowded break for a change.

BTW - kiters love the Alameda waves. When you're moving fast and not trying to sit on a peak, windswell can actually be a lot of fun. Also, windsurfers head out into the channel from Peninsula spots like Coyote Pt. for rolling windswell. That stuff can get overhead on the right tide/wind combo.

Posted by: santacruzsam at April 18, 2005 04:20 PM

Got off super early and rounded the corner to see swell. Just fixed three new cracks on my 5'9 greeny snot board and ready to go! Korwin, had Sirius on and some Panic came on as usual, great 10+ minute jam.

Jetty surf rules.

Posted by: Hb at April 18, 2005 04:29 PM

i love those jetty shots hb. A bunch of them on kneed4speed.com

is that jetty in San Diego county?

digger

Posted by: e at April 18, 2005 04:34 PM

Anyone catch the queens of the stoneage concert Sat. Such a good band. I haven't seen crowd surfing at the Fillmore in the 10 years I've been here. Such a great show. My ears are still ringing.

Posted by: obsurfer at April 18, 2005 04:34 PM


YAY Curren, and YAY! LA finally wins!
http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_04_18_la4.cfm

Posted by: bagel at April 18, 2005 04:41 PM

blakestah-glad to hear Wil is still kicking and into shaping. Is he setting up shop near SF or still in SC?

You should get his take on your fin concepts. Probably already have. I have a lot of respect for his innovative energy and integrity. On Twinzers he refused to glass the canard fins on and inserted them into a microballoon slurry instead claiming there would be too much turbulence between the fins otherwise.

Those early Twinzers were magic. Just the fastest boards down the line. It's all about the speeeeed.

Posted by: kdalle at April 18, 2005 04:45 PM

OB Jetty?

I had a Twinzer in the early 90's when Wise was selling them, fun boards. I have a Rusty five fin Piranha that I've had for almost two years, yellow, been buckled, but it's still my favorite board, i rode it on Friday.

Posted by: Mexi at April 18, 2005 05:05 PM

funny you should mention that about the canard fins and the slurry. Both my canard fins on my twinzer came loose and needed repair. And both times the guy fixing wondered why he did it that way. That was 1991....

But man is that board fast!

Posted by: jack at April 18, 2005 05:06 PM

a friend of mine has whole quiver of jobsons, like 5 boards from from 6'0 up to 6'10, loves them.

could any of you who know jobson boards recommend a good size for getting a taste of what they're like? (i'm 5'10, 165, intermediate)

Posted by: loon at April 18, 2005 05:24 PM

I don't care what anyone says, Granada is to die for when it's working (that would be three times a year on a south swell). Fast, pitching waves with a sense of humor. They like to double up and toss you on top of the wave in front. That makes for an interesting air drop.

Size? I surfed it once during El Nino and was scared sh**less. It was doing the same tricks but way overhead and top-to-bottom and God forgive you if you got caught in the shallows. Don't underestimate that place when it fires.

Posted by: Liz at April 18, 2005 06:12 PM

You guys stoked on Twinzers may be even more stoked on the yet to be named new Jobson fin setup...it has five fins, the rail fins are Twinzer-like, but the main fin shape is different, he added a rear fin, says it blows the Twinzer away for speeed and cutbacks.

I don't think Wil cares as much about "the bottom turn" as the thruster guys do...but I haven't ridden the new one yet. He has a very cool drawn-out explanation for the virtues of the canard side fins and Twinzers in general.

He was stoked to see my energy going into fin design, he grasped what I was going after and thought it was cool, but Wil beats to his own drummer and I think there is about zero chance he would try my stuff, which is fine...

He's setting up in Santa Cruz, hopefully he will send me his contact info when he does so I can help put the word out and get him busy....such an interesting guy. I think surfing could definitely use more people like Wil.

Posted by: blakestah at April 18, 2005 06:32 PM

loon - Twinzers come in all sizes. If your buddy will loan you one, grab one that floats you about the same as your regular board....turn down the line fast, don't wait for a big bottom turn....cutbacks and off-the-lips will have a sweet smoothness.

Posted by: blakestah at April 18, 2005 06:34 PM

jjr- hope you don't mind if I post your zoo photo. Way too funny and therefore it must be shared with the world (OK, six people who visit my site).

http://www.surfhumor.com/Posters%20&%20Stuff.htm

More, please.

Posted by: Bruce at April 18, 2005 06:49 PM

The wind is blowing so farking hard!!!

Posted by: dano at April 18, 2005 08:04 PM

I wanna "real" twin fin someday. Currently, I have on order a 5'10" quad-fin bat-tail foam-and-glass epoxy hella-light Stretch kind of like this.

Posted by: Stretch Order at April 18, 2005 08:14 PM

This was Pipe today: triple overhead plus late season swell. Should last by the time I get there on Friday ;) Can't wait for double overhead Pipe! There should be more pics posted tomorrow at www.hawaiianwatershots.com.

You guys are right. Spring/Summer sucks at O.B.

Posted by: mililaniguy at April 18, 2005 09:13 PM

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/DigitalDanny/32EU0741.jpg

Posted by: at April 18, 2005 09:14 PM

triple overhead plus???

that looks like 6 ft, haole

Posted by: big mook at April 18, 2005 09:43 PM

Today was DEFINITELY TOH+, big mook. I was there. And are you seriously calling that wave in the pic 6 ft? I don't know any Hawaiian that would call that six feet. That's easily 10 feet, dude. Chill out.

Posted by: MSG at April 18, 2005 11:09 PM

10 feet plus day at Pipe = TOH+

http://www.surfnewsnetwork.com/index.php?fuseaction=main.main&

Posted by: MSG at April 18, 2005 11:10 PM

seems like set's coming over head to 1.5 and some plus sets too, every day at Ulu.

tiny little guy jon jon florence and his brothers are here. kid surfs good.

his mom has broken out a different bikini for each of her three sessions so far.....and of course i've been chatting her up.

hot, and a good surfer. single she tell's me....

Posted by: tom at April 19, 2005 12:28 AM

Sometimes, I wonder if it's even worth it:

http://www.stileproject.com/sharkattack.html

Posted by: gawd jeez at April 19, 2005 01:52 AM

I could write a book on esoteric surf spots...I know a dude who says he's surfed Angel Island why not? I check out spots just north of the bridge whenever I can and have heard of them being surfed but have never been so lucky. A mediocre wave at a rare breaking spot is as satisfying as a good wave at a well known spot.

peace

Posted by: antman at April 19, 2005 09:19 AM
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