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crumbly goodies

Blind go-out does the trick this morning.
Minimal wind
Suit up.
Trot down.
Over the dunes.
D'oh.
Looked real shitty.
... and small.
Dumpy shoulder-high windswell.
Out there.
Better than it looked
Improved as the session wore on
Some remnant south swell sets marching in
A few sculpted, glassy, raunchy barrels (observed, not surfed).
A few surprisingly long rides.
I tried an air at the end of a section and let's just say i'm glad there was nobody there to see it!
All the discussion of the Man in the Grey Suit had me concerned.

6 billion people in the world.
6 billion unique minds.
6 billion people with their own desires, fears, quirks, demons.
Think about all the self-reflective mental chatter that occurs in your mind all the time.
Multiply that by 6 billion.
The mind as an intricately evolved survival mechanism.
The human body as a vehicle for genetic replication.
Our genes using us as vehicles/weapons/buffers/survival machines.
We're just here as the random outcome of natural selection and the hiccups of physics?
Meaning is left for us to create?
Existentialism?
God as an imaginative figment of the collective mind?
A calming notion to keep us soothed?
The Bible a collection of oral histories.
Christianity the great schizophrenia of the West (Separation of secular and spiritual)?
Heaven and Hell inventions to palliate the masses?
How can anyone seriously claim to know what happens after death?
Blankness?
Euphoria?
Searing pain?
Wake up a Cauliflower

Who knows!

Niceness reader Javier sent a few ridiculous photos from the channel at Chopes. He had this to say, "here are some more photos from Teahupoo over the past 3 days. The swell has died down quite a bit, but Sunday and Monday were hands down some of the heaviest and most consistent surf I have ever seen....Evah.

Btw, I took these shots were taken while negotiating between a dozen
powerboats in the channel in my dinky little kayak.

Good times good times from Tahiti...."

javier in tpoo

javier in tpoo

javier in tpoo

javier in tpoo

took this pic on saturday, pre-surf, while watching the whales.

shark or not shark?

here's the original (a bit cropped):

and here's an enlargement, also a bit cropped:

i am thinking, not. but it kinda looks like it at first, eh?

Posted by: g at May 5, 2005 10:10 AM

If there is an afterlife, will it be better than our time here on earth? If it is then I'm stoked! Think of the most amazing wave you ever rode. If that experience is just a snapshot of what is to come, than what really is to come? Is the fundamental experience of surfing an intense wave a picture of heaven? The priviledge to ride waves seems as if it should not be allowed to be experienced by mere mortals but should be reserved for only a few 'saints' or heros. I only hope that it will be 6-8 foot, glassy conditions when I get there.

Or maybe we will wake up a Cauliflower...

Posted by: flap at May 5, 2005 10:14 AM

i am thinking not shark but a mother & calf- i saw such a pair last week or so.

pez- sorry no call yet, super snowed at work trying to get through it to go abbing friday. gimme call for the weekend.

Posted by: goodmorning at May 5, 2005 10:17 AM

"my only fear of death is coming back to this bitch reincarnated"



Posted by: 2pac at May 5, 2005 10:26 AM

what's this i hear about a new controllable camera. what's the addresss?

Posted by: at May 5, 2005 10:30 AM

I apologize for my lack of ability to tell if someone is joking, but g, you are joking, arn't you?

Posted by: web at May 5, 2005 10:38 AM

I probably shouldn't say this but chopes in a kayak seems like a direct route to the afterlife

Posted by: rza at May 5, 2005 10:44 AM

I've posted this warning a few times, and from the looks of yesterday's board some other posters are finally starting to get the message:
DOZENS of surfers are devoured by sharks DAILY at Ocean Beach. Surfing is a very DANGEROUS past-time and should be avoided! Those of us who foolishly continue to engage in this compulsive and self-destructive behaviour do so because we are powerless over our addiction and selfishly heedless toward the pleadings of our loved ones.
If you don't surf, don't start. If you DO surf, GET HELP.

Re: God, religion, spirituality and the after-life ... I think those pictures of Teaupoo say it all!

Posted by: Jimmie at May 5, 2005 10:45 AM

although those photos are nuts

Posted by: rza at May 5, 2005 10:46 AM

water to water

Posted by: pez at May 5, 2005 10:46 AM

e, sorry i missed ya this morning. was out late last night at the oaks in oaktown playing some cards.

good ponderings today. i personally believe reincarnations is our decaying bodies fertilizing the soil. kinda unspiritual. i know.

way late 4 work due to a suspicious package in the embarcadaro station this morning. had a great people watching walk down market though.

3 weeks until BAJA!!!

Posted by: lerm at May 5, 2005 11:00 AM

Jimmie, thanks for telling the truth. The surf industry doesn't want the truth to be told. In fact I heard from an ex billbong exec, that AI is in fact a clone. The real AI died from blood loss after a great white attack surfing the Margaret River after Bells last year. A current Quiksilver rep told me that Slater has a bionic left leg, arm and testicle, due to a shark attack 2 years ago when he was practicing tow ins with Peter Mel in the Monterey Bay.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 5, 2005 11:02 AM

Some fun last night, eh? Saw a couple rippers down the south end doing 360's and airs. Paddled by a guy talking about his mothers vacation. Any one of the niceness crew? Yeah, you guys were doin some pretty fancy surfing, but can you nose ride ;) Also got talking to a girl that had a bunch of good rides. A goffy footer named Katie. Friendly person with good vibes in the water. I had bunch of good waves and a couple fun mini-barrels myself but ended the 2 hour session with a few blown takoffs. This old body can only take so much.

Posted by: Dennis at May 5, 2005 11:02 AM

lerm,
baja...we is all jealous
3 weeks to practice your espanol here's some help courtesy of a regurgitated post.(apologies to the originator whose name i did not save) feliz cinco de cinco !!

Mas cerveza, por favor. (More Coca-Cola, please.)
Estoy tan borracho! (I am so happy!)
Que es me nombre? (Where is my neighborhood?)
Usted es muy abominable, como se llama? (You're pretty, what's your name?)
Me llamo Lerm, soy Guapo y Fuego! (My name is Lerm, I'm very shy!)
Donde estan las olas? (Where is the golf course?)
Tiburon! Tiburon! (Dolphin! Dolphin!)
Ola Polica, perro stupido. (Hi police officer, you nice person)
Donde esta un cafe homosexual? (Where's a good bar to meet women?)
Ola Senor. Quiero sexo con su hija! (Hello sir, I would like to meet your daughter!)

Posted by: mig at May 5, 2005 11:14 AM

"How would we be better off without religion?

We'd all be freed to concentrate on the only life we are ever going to have. We'd be free to exult in the privilege -- the remarkable good fortune -- that each one of us enjoys through having been being born. An astronomically overwhelming majority of the people who could be born never will be. You are one of the tiny minority whose number came up. Be thankful that you have a life, and forsake your vain and presumptuous desire for a second one. The world would be a better place if we all had this positive attitude to life. It would also be a better place if morality was all about doing good to others and refraining from hurting them, rather than religion's morbid obsession with private sin and the evils of sexual enjoyment." -- Richard Dawkins

http://www.salon.com/news/

Posted by: limevoodoo at May 5, 2005 11:15 AM

Those Teahupoo shots pretty much captured what OB was like mid-morning (except of course more sharks). Surprisingly fun smorgasbord of waist-high waves, if you found the right inner bar. And the beach was ALL MINE.

Posted by: kloo at May 5, 2005 11:25 AM

I'll probably never experience it, but imagine sitting on your board on the shoulder of one of those beasts. I wonder if you would feel your board being sucked toward the trough as the wave drains the reef. And the shock waves through the water as the lip crashes onto the reef. Phew! Imagine what it would be like to paddle into an 6 foot swell and have the bottom drop out and the wave stand straight up to twenty feet with the pressure of the entire ocean forcing the wave forward and over your head. Imagine the thrashing you'd get if you messed up.

Posted by: Dennis at May 5, 2005 11:37 AM

A couple of months ago I went on a guided tour of the elephant seals over at ano nuevo. I started talking to the guide and the conversation led to sharks and there prevelance in the vacinty. I mentioned to him that over the past couple of months I've seen a few headless seals lying on the beach from wadell, OB, SM beach breaks, etc. He said that there is a scientist from Monterey Bay Aquarium who chops off heads of seals that wash up on the beach and then uses them for some sort of research.

Has anyone seen or heard of this scientist walking around the beach decapitating seals?

Posted by: jahmir at May 5, 2005 11:44 AM

As a regular foot I like flopping those photos. First one looks pleasant. Second one a little thicka.

Posted by: at May 5, 2005 11:46 AM

anybody know what time the T-poo contest begins?

Posted by: e at May 5, 2005 11:50 AM

ditto Kloo - Talk about raging ankle barrels! My right foot was totally tubed in the green room, but when I didn't make the closeout section I thought my toes were going to be ripped off!

My palms sweat just looking at those T-poo pics

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 5, 2005 11:50 AM

LOL! nice mig. thanks for the tips.

Posted by: lerm at May 5, 2005 11:54 AM

Chopes is a mutant. Straight up. Those are some sick shots. Even sweeter that some dude is all up on Niceness sent them over to E. Does that mean we have representation in the channel? If so, have him tell AI I think he is a fag.....Nah, just joshing. Kelly is the man though.

As for those WHALE photos, please....clearly those slow-moving mules that go north to south without jig-jagging are not sharks. Great shots though.

On the Chopes tip, all I get right now is the girls contest and there is no video, only scoring.

Posted by: Kaiser at May 5, 2005 12:00 PM

interesting resin tint job


Posted by: j at May 5, 2005 12:20 PM

was going thru some film i shot at lindy this weekend (note yellow water) and came across this.

shark?

blown up

thoughts??

Posted by: j at May 5, 2005 12:28 PM

LOL j that is friggin hilarious!

Posted by: vons at May 5, 2005 12:36 PM

Yeah J Ha ha
I think that must be Pedro (lindy's loch ness)

Posted by: artifact at May 5, 2005 12:50 PM

Don't know if this was posted already, but pretty amazing:

Story.

Posted by: wrybread at May 5, 2005 12:54 PM

KALX still have the Louie Louie marathon?

Posted by: at May 5, 2005 01:04 PM

J that is awesome.

Am I first to say Happy CINCO DE MAYO?????

Posted by: TSM at May 5, 2005 01:09 PM

throwing out a vote for a Niceness Expression Session surf funtest at one of our beautiful avenues
I'll supply the keg disguised as a pile of contest jerseys
and hopefully BVB will come and I'll finally get to see how hard he rips!
No, seriously, I think this is a great idea. Let the flaming begin.....

Posted by: summerfun at May 5, 2005 01:14 PM

Hey, Tech gave me access to the site again! I was cut off for a bit.

Pez, Can you explain the water chrystal pic. What was written on the jar?

Dennis, I was on the watermelon longboard yesterday and you said "I was up first" or something like that, but you seem to know me?? Are you Sean's friend?

Classic post J, Email me,

Posted by: Mexi at May 5, 2005 01:17 PM

I second the idea of a Expression Session. We should incorporate doing preheat kegstands.

On another note, a buddy from CO paddled out with me this AM at a break south of here. Upon reaching the watersedge, he realized his wetty was on backwards and had to hide near some rocks and change it around. Luckily no one was around. Following that, we got some fun glassy waves.

Posted by: traut at May 5, 2005 01:18 PM

Happy 05:05:05 05/05/005

Only 3:45 to go.

Posted by: at May 5, 2005 01:20 PM

The water crystal was exposed to the thought of peace....

It is part of the research of Masaru Emoto who like many others beleives that our concious thought has a tangible physical impact on our reality and that the way we "feel" has an effect on how the world is composed around us.....

http://www.masaru-emoto.net/english/eprofile.html


from this line of thinking I have been willing happy waves to me......what ever works....

Posted by: pez at May 5, 2005 01:30 PM

Mexi, Yeah that was me. Nice to connect your name with a face.

That guy caught the wave after you were standing and came up behind you and you kicked out. I said, it was your wave by the first up rule. No, I didn't recognize you. Just being friendly.

Jeez, next time I'm in a crowd I'm gonna holler out who's the niceness folks. I know Sean the lifegaurd, and I know Sean from Surfrider. Can't say they are friends really, certainly not enemies. Probably the closest mutual friend we have in Mark Alfaro.

Posted by: Dennis at May 5, 2005 01:34 PM

Dennis, The thing I found odd about the exchange was ithought you said, "Hey Paul, first one up" Thats why I asked your name, i hate not recognizing someone who I've met, makes me feel rude,

Posted by: Mexi at May 5, 2005 02:04 PM

3to5setsof7 - HOLY SHIT! If all you say is true, THE LIE is even bigger and more insidiuous than I thought! I'm beginning to think that we've ALL been eaten by sharks and our continuing consciousness is simply a form of DENIAL.
Oh well, I'm just gonna play along like EVERYTHING IS O.K.

pez - Ya' gotta watch out for some o' that new ageish line of thinking. Remember what Philip K. Dick said, "Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away."

I think I'm overcompensating for having missed yesterday's glassy niceness by bein' just plain silly.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 5, 2005 02:05 PM

pez - I don't believe in that crap. But in case I'm wrong, could you will a few happy waves my way?

Posted by: Dennis at May 5, 2005 02:17 PM

Grey whale calf head:

Our mystery shape:

Maybe a tail, from the side, with some markings on it? Dunno, not paddling out on any whales again any time soon, though sharing the water with them was cool at the time.

Posted by: g at May 5, 2005 02:27 PM

mexi, i think you're missing part of your post above

"Classic post J, Email me, "

Posted by: j at May 5, 2005 02:34 PM

sharks move with a purposeful cadence in the water unlike any other. stealthy, angular, fast. not a friendly bob like a dolphin. no long casual wave hello like a whale's tail. when you see one, your primal instinct knows it.


Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 5, 2005 02:50 PM

re: sfgate article about the opening of roadless areas to logging, drilling, mining, etc...

"The first stage of fascism should more appropriately be called Corporatism because it is a merger of State and corporate power"

--Benito Mussolini (1883-1945)

Posted by: goodmorning at May 5, 2005 02:53 PM

Posted by: MCC caught on film! at May 5, 2005 03:05 PM

Mexican Idependence day is Sept 16th!!! but I'll take a shot anyway!!!

Posted by: pez at May 5, 2005 03:07 PM

Another vote for expression session shenanigans.

Hilarious pics, J. Anyone walked in on you while you're working on those shark photos?

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 5, 2005 03:10 PM

greets to all the niceness heads....

my trip to the DL ends manana in the a.m.
and i will be out trolling for some olas.
so stoked!! feeling recovered and amped to git wet!

my two pennies on the mystery shape....
pectoral fin of either a whale or a piniped (sp?)
read that seal. seems that striation to me looks like the
separation (webbing) between the digits on the fin.
seals and other sea mammals have bone structure not
too far removed from ours. that looks to be that.

and seal because the whale pec is longer and pointier.

7 days til CR!!! HOLY SHIT i am AMPED!

cheers ya'll!

and if ya'll do have the keg o brew/ surf gathering,
please wait til june 1. inspired idea that i would most
definitely attend.

Posted by: korewin at May 5, 2005 03:12 PM

Posted by: barney at May 5, 2005 03:29 PM

Be sure to turn your volume up - WAY UP!!

http://www.cincodemayosf.com/

Posted by: traut at May 5, 2005 03:44 PM

Stop the madness, its a freakin whale already. If you have been anywhere near the coastline over the last week, you will notice they have been moving north. Saw them from the 18th tee box at HMB, say some from the water at Sloat, even saw some while driving along the Great HWY. It is not a shark, it is a whale.

Now, get the ladies off the waves and get the contest started already....

Posted by: Kaiser at May 5, 2005 03:48 PM

Posted by: Where's the drive thru? at May 5, 2005 03:57 PM

Um, nice watches...

Posted by: Kaiser at May 5, 2005 03:59 PM

oh look, it's 8:54 on all those watches

Posted by: j at May 5, 2005 04:28 PM

(8:54 is 6 to 9...sixty nine...get it...haha...ok not really)

Posted by: j at May 5, 2005 04:29 PM

Years ago I booked into the Turtle Bay with my wife not knowing that the same week they were holding the Miss Hawaiian Tropic there. Did a lot of hangin' by the pool. Tom Arnold, Patty Hearst and "Up All Night" Rhonda were the judges. Let's just say there seemed to be a lot of activity headed towards Mr. Arnold's room.

Posted by: at May 5, 2005 04:36 PM

If I were married to Rosanne Barr, I would be at the Hawaiian Tropic contest and be a nasty ole man as well.

Posted by: traut at May 5, 2005 04:39 PM

awesome Jerry Garcia interview

Posted by: e at May 5, 2005 05:04 PM

Yet another reason to stay out of the water at OB, look at this picture I took last week:

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at May 5, 2005 05:39 PM

I also wanna say before the last outflow event, my my flushed my pet aligator down the toilet. I aint saying it's grown to enormous proportions due to toxic sewer waste, but I am thinking maybe I shouldn't taught him to eat neoprene.

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at May 5, 2005 05:44 PM

Jahmir - I had also heard about the scientists who chop of the heads of washed up seals for research. I asked one of my professors who works at the Moss Landing Marine Laboratories, and she confirmed that actually a number of different scientist and organizations do that. She didn’t know exactly why, but said they try to cover big sur all the way to SF. Defiantly gave me some peace of mind when i see a headless seal on the beach before i paddle out.

Posted by: sea scum at May 5, 2005 06:14 PM

You're a marine biologist now, Kaiser?

That doesn't look like a whale. I'm not saying it is a shark. But it sure as fuck is NOT a baby grey whale's head.


Posted by: at May 5, 2005 06:18 PM

Looks like the whales front flipper to me.

Posted by: Dennis at May 5, 2005 06:58 PM

I sometimes eat the head of a seal for a snack after a hard salmon feast. Hope this helps your peace of mind.

Posted by: the Landlord at May 5, 2005 07:28 PM

J...friggin hilarious gumby pics in the yellow water of linda mar...had me LOL here in the heat of the media tent, Hinano in hand...

Kaiser and E...yep you gots Niceness represented in the channel at Teahupoo...sticker on the kayak and all. You want messages passed along to AI, Slates, CJ, KK, Abubo...go for it. "AI...Kaiser thinks you lame. Slates, you the man, and Kaiser says hi."

My clout ends in the channel though. I have about as much pull in the lineup here as a boogie-boarder paddling out at the Lane with a neon wetsuit, pink Gath, water wings, and rec-specs.

More onshore disorganized mush again today at Teahupoo, which has all the surfers lounging and keeping their coral wounds dry and staffe-free on this national holiday in Tahiti. As lame as the surf looks compared to Sunday and Monday, this would still be considered "all-time" in Pacifica, my home break...and we'd be talking about it for months...

So as they do when the surf goes down at Chopes, the women's comp is being held which is now into the quarters. Keala, in her first heat this morning, hit the reef Hard and got a 2" gash in her head down to the skull...No sh*t. They gauzed her head up, duct-taped it, and she kept surfing...advancing through to the Quarters. Yah KK...I have mad respect for her...she charges bigger and harder than most guys at Chopes.

Warm tropical rain falling outside and the announcer in the background...

"Megan Abubo, your last wave a 1.8. You need a 3.41 to advance."

E, thanks for posting the pics...hope you make a "Best of..." E's surf report anthology some day...with your best musings and the best comments all in one.

Mahalo,
Javier

Posted by: Javier at Chopes at May 5, 2005 07:39 PM

Anon, not a marine biologist, a physiologist. What are you, a banker that never leaves the office? Just because it is swimming in the fucking ocean doesn't mean it is a shark. Besides, when was the last time a GW or the like was belly up chillin at the surface for all the world to see? How many pictures have you ever seen of a shark "resting" at the surface? You can pick up a container of common sense on aisle 5, please proceed.....

Javier, fucking dream sitting in the channel! That must be unreal. Enjoy the next few weeks if you are lucky enough to stay the whole time! Would love to hear more about the scene there.

Posted by: Kaiser at May 5, 2005 08:00 PM

It must cost big bucks to even stay there. It's probably a mad house just sitting in the channel.

Posted by: Ian at May 5, 2005 08:27 PM

Damn, Javier, great post. Please keep 'em coming!

Also, delayed props to j (I can just see you "surfing" Gumby on those waves in the office all day) and to yesterdays Charging Charger post.

C'mon morning, make some surf!

Posted by: kloo at May 5, 2005 08:29 PM

great visual

"a boogie-boarder paddling out at the Lane with a neon wetsuit, pink Gath, water wings, and rec-specs."

Posted by: j at May 5, 2005 09:00 PM

kinda looks like that whale had a run in with a large propeller

Posted by: toneman at May 5, 2005 09:43 PM

That's a whale. Seen one north of SC two weeks ago.

Today I got some nugs. Everyone went in cuz it started getting windy. I paddled out just to get wet and then it semi-glassed-off around 11:30. No crowds. Niceness.
-as

Posted by: AS at May 5, 2005 11:05 PM

Look closer. Maybe it is a whale, but it's an ill-tempered whale with laser beams on it's freakin' head.

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