E's Surf Report

from javier@chopes-

WORD JAVIER!!!!

J...friggin hilarious gumby pics in the yellow water of linda mar...had me LOL here in the heat of the media tent, Hinano in hand...

Kaiser and E...yep you gots Niceness represented in the channel at Teahupoo...sticker on the kayak and all. You want messages passed along to AI, Slates, CJ, KK, Abubo...go for it. "AI...Kaiser thinks you lame. Slates, you the man, and Kaiser says hi."

My clout ends in the channel though. I have about as much pull in the lineup here as a boogie-boarder paddling out at the Lane with a neon wetsuit, pink Gath, water wings, and rec-specs.

More onshore disorganized mush again today at Teahupoo, which has all the surfers lounging and keeping their coral wounds dry and staffe-free on this national holiday in Tahiti. As lame as the surf looks compared to Sunday and Monday, this would still be considered "all-time" in Pacifica, my home break...and we'd be talking about it for months...

So as they do when the surf goes down at Chopes, the women's comp is being held which is now into the quarters. Keala, in her first heat this morning, hit the reef Hard and got a 2" gash in her head down to the skull...No sh*t. They gauzed her head up, duct-taped it, and she kept surfing...advancing through to the Quarters. Yah KK...I have mad respect for her...she charges bigger and harder than most guys at Chopes.

Warm tropical rain falling outside and the announcer in the background...

"Megan Abubo, your last wave a 1.8. You need a 3.41 to advance."

E, thanks for posting the pics...hope you make a "Best of..." E's surf report anthology some day...with your best musings and the best comments all in one.

Mahalo,
Javier

Posted by: Javier at Chopes on May 5, 2005 07:39 PM

"They gauzed her head up, duct-taped it, and she kept surfing...advancing through to the Quarters. Yah KK...I have mad respect for her...she charges bigger and harder than most guys at Chopes."

No wonder she was named most inspirational of all the Blue Crush crew.

Kaiser- I would like to commend you on your common sense reply to the shark photo yesterday. I felt like saying that, but did not.Physiologist... very impressive indeed.

I have been reading the shark comments with quite a bit of interest lately, and have hesitated to really put in my two cents for fear of being perceived as a know it all or something similar. Let me say, from my heart, that I do not feel that in any way do not have real knowledge on the subject, only what I have seen, or talked to friends about. I have no degree, I am in this desk job by pure family default, and not many years ago I was on my hands and knees sorting fish on drag boats.

But I would like to share the following that may help put into perspective for some of the niceness what I feel is the reality of the Great White. This comes from the following experience. Call me bullshit, or not. I dont care.I put down the following as a way of trying to give my perspectinve on practical experince, and thinking alot about it, and coming to the below conclusion.

1) Personal sightings
- Attack on Steller Sea Lion by large white from Urchin Boat. Previously described here.
- Very large white lolling on surface about 50 feet from me at Tunitas Creek about 23 years ago.Just soaking in the sun
- Surfer attacked about five feet from me at rivermouth way up north by small, maybe ten foot white. Close enough that I saw little animals hanging from its side fins, and drops of water coming off them in the sun, as it rolled my friend over and took him under.

2) Friends attacked who I did not witness but have surfed with hundreds of times
- Urchin diver off san miguel coming up to boat with bag of urchin. Bit in half.
- Surfer up north severly chewed up. (Shout out to you BK.. I heard that the first words out of your mouth, as your little girl was on the beach watching, were "don't let her see me" Courage brother.
- Surfer up north severly chewed up. Hundreds of stitches.
- Surfer up north knocked off board. Not hurt but heart from high heart rate
- Surfer up north knocked off board. No injury.

So after all that- only one death. And that was in a serious deep water spot known for big whites, and a guy who was in the water more than most of us sit at our desk.

I just do not think that for the average surfer there is any real chance of dying from a great white attack. And I absolutely think that the majority of what we see as sightings are not GW's. That photo yesterday? That is a whale. And not even maybe. It is a god damn whale, and we should all know it. We need to get perspective on how much life is out there, and how , few, relatively, white sharks there are. I mean, arent they endangered? Dont freak yourselves out people, bin laden is going to get you before whitey does. The above attacks were at very sharky areas, on people who are in the water ALOT. Which none of us are , either anymore, or ever have been

I don't know why I read this crap every day. Maybe I am hoping for that one bikini shot to make my day. However, it is ususally just a bunch of cryptic garbage that doesn't mean a thing.

e, great description. really put me there.

javier, excellent pics. keep 'em coming!

Hey web, I don't ever want to go surfing with you.

My experiences with GWs
Friend bumped off his board while surfing the a remote rivermouth in Humbolt.

Baby GW washed up at OB, we tried getting it back in the water, but the thing was snapping like a rabid pitbull,

2000 and 2004 elections...

J, Email me..

Is there such a thing as a hangover cure?

tsm- Sweating is the best I know about. Out with the old, in with the new. Of course a beer or two will probably do it as well.

ya'll been watching Jaws too many times......SURF!!

Found a reference to a shark siting at Smoke-a-jay a few days back: http://forums.surfline.com/showthread.php?threadid=21143

This morning was good fun! Same sandbar as yesterday, maybe a bit more juice, definitely a lot more randomness, but playful rideables plenty often, just right for my fish-ish thing; some long rides (at least by my scale, where "average" is .3 seconds), some speedy little walls. A welcome opposite of those days when you see plenty of good waves but get only crap. When I drifted too far north, it did get crumbly and pushless, but paddle back and the fun returns. Nobody else out at all.

Care to lay odds on the Myth of the Great South Swell?

mexi, what's your address? i wanna say mexisurf@hotmail.com???

nevermind, i found it....

I have had a few encounters with the landlord nothing quite as heavy as Web has experienced but I have seen a whitey up close and personal. I tend to agree with Web but I still get the shark vibe at some spots.

I have a kind of funny story that relates to the shark vs whale debate. A couple years back on a nice sunny saturday at the beach a buddy and I were suited up at the waters edge when a guy came in from the water frantically waving.

He said, "I just saw the biggest shark I have ever seen out there"

We asked him a few questions but he ran off to warn the park rangers. So we paused there for a few minutes basically saying what should we do.

We opted to paddle out as we had friends out in the lineup and we felt that we should at least warn them. As soon as I get out I see a guy whose face I recognize and I tell him that some guy said that a shark was out here. The familiar face laughs and says it's not a shark but a whale and like two seconds later a whale breeches about 20 feet away...right in the lineup.

Funniest thing is the guy who originally told us about the shark told everyone on the beach and his story had evolved as he described the shark in detail even stating that he could see the blood in between the sharks teeth.

what's the sharkiest surf spot from santa cruz to bodega?
Davenport?
Ano?
Tunitas (don't eat us)?
Bolinas?

Hey RC
bet you enjoyed the lack of crowd during that particular session.

tsm - Having experienced countless hangovers and trying every remedy known to western civilization, I found the second best method is simply don't stop drinking. That prevented me from having a hangover for the last 5 years of my 20 some year career as a professional partier. Best is the preventative approach. I completely stopped drinking 18 years ago and haven't had a hangover since.

Surfed last night for a bit. Had a cople fun rides but the waves turned to total crap by 6PM. I ran into Katie again and her boyfriend Jeremy. Nice folks from Bolinas.

Dennis, thanks for the advice however I have not reached that point yet.
Not blaming my environment, but living in NYC there isn't that much else to do besides hit the pub. Sure, I've been to all the museums and crap but that gets old. I'm active and what not, 1/2 marathon last week and surfing when able but the concrete jungle lends it self to drinking. Most of my friends feel the same way, but i suppose that is why they are my friends. Whatever.

Trifecta box: Noblecauseway, Bandini, Highfly
Highfly to win.

You heard it here first.

E- Stinson Beach to Salmon Creek has got to be the worst in the area, maybe the the whole West Coast. I only remember a couple attacks south of here in the 13 years I've been here. But there's been about 6 or 7 in the above mentioned zone in the same period.

Yeah. When I quit drinking, I discovered I was living in Philadelphia and promptly moved out.

maybe switch to a ganja infusion here and again to break up the drinking? When i'm puffing, i don't drink. When i'm not puffing.. i dig drinking.

peace

wait.. shit.. that was me posting to tsm.

Oh yeah, nice pics Javier! Must be an amazing experience to be floating around in the channel having waves like that explode right in front of you. I would think in a month or so it would be easier to actual try and catch one of those beasts from the pack. What size boards are the paddle in guys riding? Probably 7'0" or so?

Web, heavy shit. I guess when you spend that much time in and around the ocean it not a question of if you will see Whitey, just when.

E, I would think Stinson has had the most actual incidents.

My personal experiences w/ GW's
None! The closest I would ever like to get to the landloard is from inside a steel cage. Sometimes I wonder how close I've really been without ever knowing.

But I guess I'd rather go to a whitey doing what I love, than some car accident or something.
Humans are one of the few creatures that are no longer really part of the food chain, so I guess it wouldn't be that bad... OK maybe it would.

E. I think you may be right.

Tamarindo next week, psyched to get out of the cube and into that warm tropical water.

I prefer the Farallones. Lotsa good eatin'. All soft on the outside and crunchy on the inside. Yum.

hangover cure: take ibuprofen before going to bed. hard to remember when you're shitty drunk, but i'm tellin ya it works.

Web,
Where you there when JF got attacked in SC county?
That was heavy. Up until that point we always thought only kooks and boogie boarders got bitten, total grom mentality. He's a long time surfing amigo. Courageously, he still charges the reefs.

One fine late summer day while scouting sand bars along the coast. I followed a pod of dolphins heading south. Upon arriving to my intended spot, I suited up, ran up the beach to my sandbar du jour. As I approach I'm feverently greeted by 2 dudes who tell me they just saw a school of sharks!!!! I query further, they insist it was sharks. With glassy, OH southern hemi juice peeling across empty sandbars,I'm on it. After a couple of minutes, my dolphin pod surfaces now heading north......Thanks guys.

Hey J, Watch out taking ibuprofen or acetominophen (even asprin) after drinking lots- can cause really bad permanent liver damage.

I'll take 1-2 of those Emergen-C's vitamin packs(from Trader Joes) with 2 glasses of water, works great!

tsm,
beware of the thieves in Tamarindo
they follow you up from San Jose with keys to your rental car....do not leave anything of value in that car while you surf

lost a camera, cash, visa, amex, id and my tropical first aid kit two years ago down there... tracked the perpetrators drive back to San Jose via the charges they made with my cc.

OTF,
Yeah the positive to that experience is not too many people made it out.

Best hangover cure is an Australian over the counter product that I believe is called Baraca(?) it is an effervescent tablet that you drop into water loaded with b vitamins. After heavy heavy drinking nights on the Gold Coast after taking some I was able to function well enough to get some waves at the ultra crowded Super Bank.

Unfortunately it is not sold here...potential gold mine though.

Thanks for the tip on Tamarindo. Now i know, and knowing is half he battle.

Doctor Funk - Hangover Cure

* 3 oz. of Dark Rum
* Club Soda
* 1/2 Lime
* 1/2 Lemon Juice
* 1 tsp. Sugar
* 1 Dash of Grenadine
* 1/2 tsp of Pernod or Herbsaint

Take a mixing glass and fill with ice. Squeeze the lime into the glass (save the squeezed lime). Add all the ingredients minus the Club Soda and the Pernod and stir until mixed.

Strain the contents into a glass (Collins), and add additional ice if desired. Top off the glass with soda. Ad pernod and the squeezed lime.

sharkiest area? e haven't you been paying attention these last few days? Apparently its ob, where the landlord is about as prevelant as bacteria is at lindamar after a february rain. just because only super hardcore watermen are the only people who've ever seen them, and at that only in remote and notorious spots north and south of here, doesn't mean they're not out there every day.

I've actually had a semi legit sighting at the hook in the summer time. I didn't see the fin myself, but a couple of people started pointing at something, "saying holy shit is that a shark? that's a f-ing shark!" Someone else sitting a little farther out laughed and said "its only a f-ing dolphin you kooks" I was like "don't listen to that fool, I'm out of here and you should be too, can't you feel the vibe?"

BTW, the water's been real warm last couple of days.

I agree with Dennis as per the landlord's favorite places to dine. In fact, all this talk has actually gotten to me and now I am rethinking which south facing Marin/Medocino break im going hit up on my way back from the Boonville Beer fest this weekend.

I bet my retro fish really looks like a seal from underneath. SHIZZA!!

Shout out to Javier - you da man. Keep them pics and stories comming in!!

on the hangover thread - be wary the short-term remedies. check out posts from about a week ago about suspected risk of liver & kidney damage when mixing the modern anti-inflammatories & booze. aspirin or arnica are safer alternatives.

re: whitey: i got spooked surfing solo at montara once, but it was only a vibe, no visuals. and back when i was first learning to surf i once left the water at lindy due to a claim by someone that he'd seen one just outside the lineup on the south end - maybe it was ol' petey. both incidents were at dusk. can't imagine how much faster my heart would beat as i scrambled in if i'd actually seen a fin.

The only hang over cure worth damn in my opinion is

- getting out of bed at noon

- stumbling to the bodega for one of those big bottles of gatorade, the brighter and less natural the color the better

- stopping at starsucks, peets or whatever coffee place is on the way back home for a grande drip, black

- alternating slugs of gatorade and coffee for half an hour sitting on the couch with sportscenter, or espn news or golf on the tv

- then taking a crap while reading a three month old surfer magazine that is stuck to the bathroom floor

- heading to the local diner for some corn beef hash and poached eggs and more coffee

- then (just in time for the mythical evening glass off) hitting the beach for a surf

Bloody marys and rum cocktails are more like procrastination when it comes to hang overs, not cures

They make the australian hangover pill thing here in the "fuck-our-national-parks" nation.

http://www.hangoverstopper.com/

Never felt the shark vibe more than when I was 15 and out at 3-mile during a good swell. Me and 2 friends, just felt wierd. Freaked out everytime the bulbous seaweed heads would pop back up after a wave went by. Have been out at OB for various "shark sighting" days last couple of years. Don't believe most of them.

I would think a long beach like OB would suck as a shark's stalking ground, what with no cover and all.

Just drink lots of water between drinks, before bed, and when you have to get up to pee.

Everyone's favorite body surfer told me that parts of Point Reyes are the sharkiest places around, equal to the Rogue River Mouth. Something to do with the particle or Microbes in the water attracting sea life. She said she has no problem swmming around the outer bars at OB but would never swim out at PR or the RR.

Eric thats funny as hell....thats my MO except that I wake and bake...shit then bake...eat then bake...watch TV and bake....surf and bake..bake then drink....

Rogue River...Dead Guy Ale...yum

Right on pez, it works every time

statistics for last 10 years I think indicate that Salmon Creek, followed by within 200 yards of the snack bar at Stinson are the likeliest places to get chomped.

E, nice rant today! That G-Land pic is SO sick! Look at that so stoked for his buddy, getting slotted out of his mind! Reminds me of surfing with my friends yelling at each other. Web, you're the man. Nice to give a disclaimer like that. Sketch sightings and stories though. "Close enough that I saw little animals hanging from its side fins, and drops of water coming off them in the sun, as it rolled my friend over and took him under." FUCK that.. Both Kaiser and I had a shark sighting at Montara. I had a 16-18 ft swim between my friend and I. That's probably one of the most shocking experiences I've ever had. Who's down with doing a group cage-diving at the Farallones? I seriously want to do that. Best thing to PREVENT a hangover, is to drink as much water as you physically can before going to bed. Or, make your self puke it out. Next best thing to RID a hangover, as tucker said above.. Sweat it out, however you want. I find that if I've had a wee bit too much to drink, as soon as I hop in the water to surf, poof, it's gone. That's just me though.

Also, for anyone who has recently gone to El Salvador. Where are the cheap places to stay? I'm talking $5-8 a night. I know Horizonte has nice camping for $2. I also know of Tienda Erika, El Tubo, La Posada Familiar, Comedor Margoth, Hospedaje Surfers-Inn, and Papaya's. But I'm trying to find some more dirt cheap ones to keep my options open. I'll be there for 3 weeks now, instead of the intended 2. Then off to Mal Pais for 2 weeks. THANKS.

wow.. I really bounce around in my posts. Looks like I'm on crack. Oh wait, I am.

Web, nice recap. I was born up in Eureka and spent a great deal of time around the coast up there as a "non-surfing" grommet. When I go back to see the family these days, I gotta give it up to the folks that surf up there. Klamath River Mouth? Not if you paid me! When the salmon are running, that is a nothing more then a buffet table for Whitey. Surf shop up in Brookings has a nice 6'2'' from the late 80's/early 90's with a nice chunk missing. Dude was surfing with the salmon.....

On the shark account, I claim to have seen a fin in the water around this area. It wasn't OB and it wasn't Lindy but it was north of Half Moon Bay. I will leave the location unknown. The worst part about seeing that fin for me was going back to that spot and surfing. I found myself kinda freaked out for a while. YThe first time I went back, I stayed out for 20 minutes. Kinda weak on my part but I was honestly spoked out. You always here of the park service closing Stinson for 5-7 days once there is a confirmed shark siting as that is the length of their feeding cycle. Apparently this gives the parks service a fair amount of time to deem the beach clear of any hungry shark. I imposed the same on myself at this spot. I have surfed there at least 20-25 times since and not had any issues in the water. But, it is still in the back of my mind.

I don't worry about the landlord at OB. Between the gentle slop of the sand bar and the lack of sitings there, I feel pretty comfortable. Besides, when it is DOH+ out there, you have more immediate concerns then a shark rolling up on you......

Seth shot (Seth, nice article in allaboutsurf.com!!)

Stinson and Salmon Creek are well used. there are alot of people who use those beaches, you should take this into consideration when you do the math. How many swimmers and surfers use Tunitas or the Rogue?

Ian gave me up! Oh well, not that it matters. Ian, you weren't in the water with me that day were you? Did you discuss that?

Sunny stretch, summer, really warm water, dudes in steamers out? Pack to the south of about 15-20, we were the splinter pack of 4-5 to the north?

Fucking A, just game me the shivers.....

I am off to play golf in blue hair country...Let me leave a send off....

Construction on Devil's Slide tunnels broke ground today - here's an article from the Chronicle. Not sure what to think about the below paragraph...new sandbars at GWC and MSB or just a lot of dirty water?

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/05/06/BAGC8CL3OQ1.DTL

"The project is expected to produce 500,000 cubic meters of dirt, which will be deposited on the south side of the project. Sowko said dumping the dirt nearby will spare local residents an endless parade of dump trucks along Highway 1."

kaiser - you know I've taught college and grad level physiology....

Whitey is out there. Anyone who can't deal with it should move to the Great Lakes...

3to5. Were you there with JF that day? What happened?

Hey Ian- Let me know if you ever line something up out here. I think it's way cheaper to go to Baja Guadalupe- I think you can go for like 5 days for the price of 1 day at the Farallones. I think the visibility is way better too. I don't remember if you're going to S. Africa but you can do it cheap there.

Plus out @ Guadalupe they chum and at the Farallones it's illegal. I remember when some dude used to chum and throw cages out at Ano. I think he pulled out after death threats, etc.

Doesn't this look like fun!

mmm cage

Nice Sharkie

Everyones know surfing is more than just sliding down the wave. Your daily surfers enjoy the whole experience, the paddling, the swimming, the duck diving. And I suspect another part of the fun is the thrilling risk of being putting ourselves back into the food chain. I had a great aunt that bought a lottery ticket everyday even though she new her odds of winning were incredibly low. But the prize was big enough that it made it something to consider. Whitey is a reverse lottery: slim odds, unmanagable risk, but with cost high enough everyone thinks about it when they paddle outside and realize they are all alone in the line-up.
Probably better we don't see what is under the water.

3 to 5- Was not here for that one. I was either up north, or out west. Was that Davi?

Kaiser- Well, since you are native (well, one county south) and you named it.. yeah, Klamath. The indians were shooting seals that were caught in gill nets and we were surfing at the mouth a short distance away. And believe it or not, I did even stupider things at that age...where in Eureka? I lived there for many years.

Andrew nice perspective but there are a handful of spots near here where the reverse lottery odds analogy doesn't work probably closer roulette odds.

One of my whitey stories was surfing the most localized spot in SLO county. Imagine seeing all of the lineups tough enforcers scrambling out of the water like a bunch of school girls when the real enforcer shows up. Watched a fin that was 3 feet out of the water circle through the lineup(from the safety of the shore) for fifteen minutes with like 20 other people all going holy shit that is a big shark.

If anyone is too scared to go back into the water now and wants to sell their surfboards cheap, I'll buy them.

Please bite me Norah. Please Please Please

Kaiser, sorry for blowing the cover. It may have been the same day?.. We talked about it, but I forget. It was August of 2001 I think. Couldn't tell you the day. But it was sunset. Artifact, good call on price and water quality. I'm actually not going to South Africa. That or Oz would probably be the best places though. I always worry I'll get torn apart by grey when I'm duck diving. At least in Hawaii they can keep their eyes open under water. I don't know if that's a good thing though.

not sure if anybody has seen his work before, dig around there's some coool stuff on the site

http://www.lostamerica.com/images/new.html

damn, i remember a time a few years back at the mouth of the klamath when the seals were feeding on salmon, water was blood red. gonna have to find the pics. after that i decided i'd never surf there.

dead guy ale - mmm...had a pitcher at magoo's last week. i think $7 for a pitcher, cheap ass beer if you're on oahu.

artificat - good heads up on the ibu/alcohol, i appreciate that. someone turned me on to that combo just recently, now i'm wondering if she had other motives!!

I saw this funny movie a few years ago called Project Grizzly...

It's a true story about a guy who was attacked by a grizzly bear and his life goal is to make this bear proof suit. Unfortunatley the suit is like 200 lbs and no bear wants to go near it when he's ready to use it. But the testing phase is seriously funny shit. Suit vs. truck, biker gang, shotgun etc.

Surfing version? Shark proof.. Aggo local proof.. Teahupoo towin over the falls proof?

Link to trailer
http://www.revolvergroup.com/grizzly/

Project Grizzly is hysterical.

downstairs neighbor runs this outfit:
http://www.sharkdiver.com/

He used to do Farrallons but says the visibility isn't good. I once looked up shark diving there and it's $$$. But if anyone's interested he'd know the legit outfit..or as legit as can be, I'm not sure what the environmental impact is. He also quipped that he wouldn't go into the water w/out a cage! Seen one too many sharks, I think ;)

E, props for this board and all effort.

I dont get to check in here to often(work) but when i can i do.

Shout out to all those who make the effort to just paddle out at some of the Aforementioned spots on our "coastline" or chowline if you prefer.

Some news of interest to all of you who are either commited regulars or slow pokes like me.

Today was the offical groundbreaking on the Tunnel through Devils slide.

Hang on to your hats though. Project completion time is 7 Years. Depending on Caltrans of course.

A word on the north coast. I grew up surfing it and the truth is not that great considering the Frigid water temp and the amount of "Life" in the water. Let alone the ridiculous amount of driving that needs to be done to score what are mediocre waves. OB is better on any given day, and there is something to be said for the murky water. What you cant see, you cant be afraid of.

Id like to add to the list of GW's favourite chomping grounds, Double Point in Bolinas and Black Point in Sea Ranch.

So, enjoy HMB as much as you can before that tunnel gets built, because after that we will all get a taste of santa cruz crowding.

if someone could let EG Pimp know then we could all share a moment of silence for those empty perfect south swell days at the "Jedi"

Also, i found a USGS webcam of kellys cove/cliff house you all should check out, here is the addy:

http://www.video-monitoring.com/usgs/default.htm

nice link, how long until a KCLB takes a bat to that thing?

The guys that do the USGS webcam have killer bathymetry readings of the OB sandbars, they hope to be able to share with the general public when they have their project published...I've seen some of the stuff they've presented at conferences and it is super super cool stuff.

The south is just now hitting the southernmost US west coast buoys, first sets up here around dawn or so. Build during the day. Nw onshore winds anyway.

Bob Wise says there has never been a shark attack at Ocean Beach to his recollection.

Hooray! New waves on the way.

There was a shark attack inside the Bay. IIRC it was 1952. I believe it was fatal but was not a Great White. The other nearest attacks were all at the islands. Ab divers are appetizers.

yeah, well bob wise sucks

I hate my job
my boss is an asshole
those kids are mean

somebody tell them to put the dirt in at GWC

surfed ano today no sharks fun waves lots of fishing boats

have seen 1 shark about 3 feet long in 14 yrs of surfing

sharks think your a seal if they figure out your not a seal they wont try to eat you

eric, classic

THC
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