E's Surf Report

Stoookkkkkkkkkkeeeeeedddd on the waves this weekend.

AHhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Good to have an SF head down here and with swell. Good times. Hope you all scored. Now back to the grind.

just cause i'm sure everyone is waiting on the edge of their seats to hear the results: my soccer team tied on saturday and there was no brawling on the pitch.
and i scored ridiculously fun waves at the lagoon mouth of everybody's favorite xenophobic enclave yesteday afternoon. ludicrously fun longboarding and great vibes! i keep seeing that barrel opening and am never able to make it through it, but it's nice to be in there, huh? do diane or lewis give barrel riding lessons?
also saw broke down melody for the first time. you're right e-best surf film i've seen.
psst-there's always another wave. pass it on.

E-

It definitely never pays to be grumpy in the water, but points can do that to ya....

Highly recommend folks to check out CRASH. Not a surf film but definitely the best film on racial relations in AmeriKa ever! Ya more powerful, moving and visually pleasant than Do the Right Thing. It's also multi faceted story so its just not a movie from any single ethnic or economic presective.

Hate to plug it but after surfing the the fort over the weekend it definitely released some anger and put things in a tainted but better light. I dont hate surfers i.e white yuppies surfers in SF(sorry Niceness folks included) but this movie just reminds me that despite being clueless, I still need to treat them kindly. I dont ever want to own a gun again and I still need work on how I view others. Despite how confident you think you might be in your racial character you should check this flick out.

Niceness to everyone!!!!!!!!

Got some fun waves EARLY Saturday a.m. It's gonna be a while before I can surf during the week again, so I'm predawnin' it on the weekends. But no matter how early I get in the water, it seems like somebody always beats me to it - it's kinda creepy, like a lost episode of the Twilight Zone, "Offered for your consideration: portrait of a middle-aged surfer gazing out on the predawn lineup. No one in the water, no other cars in the parking lot, no one on the beach in either direction. Quiet. Still. Empty. He turns his back on the ocean to pull on his wetsuit and wax his board. What he sees when he faces back to the sea is a vision of terror ... a vision ... from another dimension ... a vision from the Twilight Zone."

Well I have reason to be grumpy. No waves all weekend! Friday I was on a whale watching boat. Had a good time but the swells looked, well, swell. Spent the rest of the weekend preparing for a final and finishing a research paper on NOAA for my Meteorology class. I wrote a paper based upon the bill to prevent NWS from sharing weather data with the public. It was pretty interesting research actually, but still--no waves for me.

Man, the Army Corps of Engineers are dumping a lot of sand off the lower lot about 500 yards out. Seems they're running 24/7. I see them sucking crap from the shipping channel and flushing it near the beach. Imagine the toxins that are being dumped in our laps. Probably better to surf the toward the north end for a while.

Oh, that's a really cool shot from under the wave. What's with those rope-like looking vortices. Facinating and beautiful don't you think? Seems like a mystery to be solved by Blakestah.

we only get one go around on this earth so make it count.

The vortices must be the fin wake? No?

seen over the weekend:
1>guy driving down the 1 with the longboard inside the car, perpendicular to the length of the vehicle, in one backseat window, out the other, a good 3 feet of longboard out each window. Watch out!

2>Fellow surfing with his swim goggles and bathing cap. paddling from the last two feet of his hybrid, foamballing and collapsing into the peak.

Summer! Sweet!

crap...saw me in the goggles/bathing cap...

I spent the the last 4 days in backcountry Sierras with a bunch of my students, pretty fun and inspiring seeing them opening their eyes to natural world.

I saw San Franpsycho yesterday, better than the first and Christian has gotten much better with his camera. Some of the groms have gotten a lot better too. But the music is annoying, and the whole knuckle head surf nazi thing is old and played out.

Diana rips, and she gives lessons

The Di pic is from Bruce, nice one B

One mor thing.. Anybody notice all the articles lately in the NY TImes about "secret Surf Spots" ? So lame.

Mexi,
I have noticed that the NYT has been taking notice on surf culture in general lately. I am pretty sure I know exactly which article you are referencing.

Time to buy stock in surf brands???

i was pretty bummed about the nyt article too.. I've been to some of those places.

but.. do i have room to talk seeing that this site exists?

i guess 850 visitors is a lot different than 10 million.

planning on the sf-sc challenge after work.. meet up with J.O.C. for a late-afternoon sesh-n-sesh and then an early morning dawnie tomorrow.

awesome diana photo bruce!
is that a narrel or barrel?

Pez, did the fort have waves? I heard it was flat all weekend. I am pretty sure it was!

But, there were some good waves down in SC over the weekend. J and I hit up the O'Neill pre-Memorial Day sale. If anyone is looking for a suit, they have all 4/3 Psycho I, Psycho II, Heat and Epic models from '04 @ 30% off. All their 3/2 models of those above are 40% off. Headed on over to PP and 38th Ave for some waves. Some really good surfing going on at PP from the point down. Some ladies longboard event going on as well. Ettique was pretty bad, rippers off the point killing waves right through the contest lineup. Likewise, contestants getting dropped in on, etc......

she's pitted. are you serious that she gives lessons or do you just mean, look at the picture and get schooled? can you really teach someone how to exit a barrel? i do fine as long as i stay right in the mouth of it, narrelled, but if i go any deeper i get crunched.

At first I thought the vortices were from fins but looking closer, there are about 6 of them in this shot. They're also spread out a too bit far.

WTF is a narrell?

narrel = near barrel

"i got narrelled this morning"
=
"i got nearly barrelled this morning"

she's barreled.

only problem is that using the hawaiian scale, there actually is no wave?

so now what do we do?

some say if the lip of the barrel isn't in front of your leading foot than you're not in the barrel.

I'd say it's 1 foot Hawaiin. We just need to prove she is no more that 12" high.

She made it out of that barrel and did a nice little cutty..

Steamward, I don't think you could learn that in a lesson, but she gives beginner lesson through Aqua.

Any suggestions on security for stuff locked in a rental car in Baja? I'm thinking small items like cash, wallet, cell phone, ipod, camera, etc. I'd love to take our dog to hang out around the car/campsite while we're not around but as e and lerm have mentioned, we're flying down to Cabo and heading out from there and my dog would be bumming on the flight. Any suggestions for a rental car? Am I being too paranoid?

Thanks!

she is barreled imo

some if my vocab from younger years in so-cal:

Barreled; got in the barrel, didnt make it out.

Tubed; got in the barrel, made it out. "in and out barrel" also accepted

a narrel to me would be if diana was about 1 boards length ahead of her current position, perhaps 1 1/2 boards length.

tom has a good point though about that wave..

e man, you are inovative in you thought processes. i would try to support you in that challenge if i didnt have a bunch of crap to do after work...sounds awesome..perhaps another time ill drive..im overdue to chill with joc.

beschen off the bottom... oh yeah.

MWSF,
It all depends on where in Baja you plan on surfing, The sketchiest place has got to be Zippers, anywhere around the break there are people waiting in line to relieve you of your goods. The East Cape is mellow and it's easy to keep an eye from the water. Todos area is pretty mellow too. an if it's in the trunk it's pretty safe.

Barrel

Thanks Mexi. Yeah, we'll probably be around Zippers as well as East Cape. Depending on what the swell is doing, we're starting out on the Cape and then heading north to central Baja. I think we're getting a van so no trunk stash. Any ideas other than keeping stuff out of sight? Strongbox?

Pez, that movie was sooooo good man. What about the gun-shot to the girls back. INTENSE. I won't give the description, Pez basically laid it down. GO SEE IT. It's about time someone stepepd up to the plate and did an "in-your-face" style film of racism. Others have been done well also, but this is something mainstream people can understand (I know people who walked out of American History X).

Serious? Diana's barreled imho. If that's controversial, then I'll NEVER get a good barrel. I always thought if you can see the lip while looking foward, you're in there. Diana's wave would be 2 feet Hawaiian scale. E, good looking out on that Gavin pic. Look at that style. Watch him in Computer Body winning the XCEL Sunset contest. That footage is so insane.

Not taking anything away from Dianna but Great NaRREL! IMO if they can see your back foot, torso and face you are not barreled....basically if your not completely covered its a not a barrell..Good shot MEXI and Dianne RIPS HARD!!!

No waves this w/e. Boo.

Hoo.

Damn the lip is a good distance in front of her though....so she's BARRELLED!!!!

mwsf,

generally keep personal technology as low key as possible. advertising wealth is never good. common sense precautions go a long way. stash your valuables before you get to your destination.
most car rentals have cd and tape players. a few mix disc/tapes is a better low cost option, plus your not going to have to deal with adpaters, cables and chargers.....except for E, he's always CHARGING!

Close but no ciggy?
If it was me I'd definitely be claiming.
barreled, shacked, getting some shade, covered up --> all that!

Gnarled.

not narrelled

Pez has a point. In my most humble, I-ain't-got-no-right-to-even-chime-in-on-this-kinda-shit, opinion, while Diana is not quite yet BURIED-IN-THE-PIT, she is about to be, most definitely, barreled. Enough commas in that sentence for you?
Diana's very cool. I remember seeing her in the water a couple of times before we were introduced. She'd be surfing circles around most of us - I'd just smile and think, "Holy Shit!" Now when I go into Aqua, we talk about Comparative Religion, shoot a little shit about the buddha and she gives me the bro deal.

I can't stand

It's not officially BRO-DEAL'ed unless the discount is in excess of 12.5%

Alex... Not Narreled

sick shots mexi!!!

Jose Borrero.

Dude is a very good surfer. Gives me a ring when he's in town. One time, the day of the Joe Dirt photos on my site (with Christian pic), he and I paddled out. Me on an 8'6", him on a borrowed 7'6". Buoys were 9@20, and he is not from around here. Still, he absolutely tore it up. Next time he came to town he paddled out right in the middle of a San FranPsycho: Wet and reckless shooting, and guys were yelling at him right and left. Really funny actually. Guess he went a little too deep at the Mentawais....cool story nonetheless.

Touring next month!

I saw Yellowman at a bar in Ocean City, Maryland about 10 years ago. Really good concert.

jamilah star interview - winner of women's xxl

Nice bikini shot

pitted:

It's been fun, but alas, we are moving back to SC. Had a great 3+ years in SF, really enjoyed Ocean Beach. So good news for you guys: one less ripper to deal with at OB. Don't kid! I'll be driving up here next winter to sample the goods.
Sincerely,
AS

clicky

catch without arms -dredg (mp3)

AS - nice photos on your site, when are they from? High tide or a long lens?

gavin

conan hayes

AS's photo filename tells me it's from this memorable day in niceness history.

Yo Blake you forgot to mention that you were on your RFS...HEHE

good luck AS thanks for all the dope photos!

blast from the past

"I don't care!!!"

Compliments of SurferMag.com

Drove down for some westward swell action in and around the Lost Coast Thursday eve. Shout out to Kolby my dog, my best travel partner ever!

I would not say I scored but I definately got my share of good waves and blasted some good turns in front of my buddy who was getting pissed cause the good setties were not comming his way at first. But it was absolutely good times for both of us.

Surfed a good sized spot north of Cayucos Friday evening with only my friend and me for miles, spooky as all hell too.

My favorite part was walking with my pup at night, as warm as it was and not hearing anything but the huge surf down the road. Canyon power and quietness as I walked. I was able to reflect on all the good surf that day with my long time friend, the story talking about to go down as well, while drinking Cental Coast's finest ales back at my friends house.

My friend down at Pavones scored huge, I saw a video clip....epic!

My brother down at Swami's scored some lined up Double O with only a couple other heads out riding an old school Brewer 9'0 single fin gun.

Hope everyone got something. peace.

Uh, no disrespect Flap but I REALLY doubt your brother scored Swami's with "only a couple others out". That spot has 50 on it pre-dawn to nightfall everyday.

Yellowman! iiiiiiirrrrriiiiie!

Swami's is a joke. You know it's bad when you can see people getting dropped in on from Pipe's. I don't even think i's worth checking the place. Although, it is one of the sickest looking waves in that area.

Drove all the way to SC with ss7 and found nothing in between but whitecaps, even the protected coves werent happening. In SC tiny swell tons of phreaks. drove back

HA! Diana owes me a surf lesson 'cause I got the sequence. She is seriously good. Some day I'm going to shoot photos like Mexi, too!

Last weekend I nabbed one of the few head high walls at the Lane. Made a couple of turns and then dug a rail off the top, only to land on the left side of my fat head. Sorta' blew my ear drum and it turned into a sinus/flu/infection thing. So I missed out this weekend except for a few organic photos. Bigger north of SC.

HB,

You are right, But he nor i never count the people in the way on the inside.

I meant he was on the outside peak at Swami's and that he and only a couple others were getting the sets way out back, either cause the others were a bunch of 'Larry's' and had too short a board or they where on a longboard and couldn't drop in on it and did't have any skills.

I guess I should clarify next time...sorry!

Jose was one of the key beta testers of the RFS - he helped me figure out the last performance tweaks...but I wasn't riding it, or tearing it up, on that particular 9@20 day - made the paddle, still got shut-out. The day at Kelly's Cove Jose rode the 6'8" RFS right in the middle of the FranPsycho crew.

Besides, Pez, its gonna be all about the rail-fin RFS...

1st time in- reading for years so props to cools, sorry to fools.

Shlindy upto the big beach is sewer runoff and regulary sited. North of the Bridge is so sited that even the number of surfers won't be able to help.

As a hard, 12 year+ Sac surfer, I can tell you that respect comes from good manners to the regulars, not going to stupid spots often NAMED, and be playing by well known surf rules.

I know this is a well read site, because of STOKE reasons. But, please don't read and just go. many spots your read about once or twice can be fickle,but worse yet, very dangerous- tides,bottom, and when finally firin' well localized.

Rick
rickrider@comcat.net

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