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Alaskan dreams

Joe finished his North County session and walked back to the car. He'd scored a few nice tubes and felt good. Tomorrow he and Pete were off to Alaska. Pete worked as a pilot up there the summer before, flying wealthy fisherman to remote bays and lakes in his little water-plane. He'd noticed a few enticing surf setups and vowed to return. Over the last few weeks the two poured over detailed maps of the region and plotted the most likely waves. With the sea-plane they could access totally remote bays and inlets. They were amping!

Three days later they're flying over the Tongass. Huge pine forests whip by underneath. Gigantic, regal mountains scrape the sky up ahead. To their left rests the mighty Pacific, looking calm and flat from this altitude. Past the sleepy town of Sitka and they're quickly into unpopulated wilderness. The little point they had in mind sits off a small, crenulated island. A quick fly-by reveals the telltale signs of orderly white-water lines. They slap high-fives about 30 times in the plane.. so psyched on what they see. Pete lands the plane in the protected bay. Now at sea-level the waves reveal themselves to be reeling, overhead+ pointbreak perfection. Nearly tripping over themselves with excitement, they shimmy into their 6mm wetties, hood and claw gloves. Just as they're about to jump out of the plane they hear a deep, guttural, petrifying roar from land. "What they fuck was that?" They wait a few seconds but don't hear anything more.

A few minutes later they're approaching the lineup. It's going bananas!! They look at each other in disbelief. Then suddenly they hear the roar again, except this time is sounds much closer, "GRRROARRRGGHH!!!" It sounds like it's coming from the top of the point.

Now Joe and Pete are scared. They still have a few hundred yards of paddling to get to the wave but they also realize that they're way the fuck out in the middle of nowhere and there seems to either be a huge bear or some supernatural entity out beyond the wave.

It's between sets when they finally make it out. All is calm and beautiful. They keep looking at each for reassurance. Then the blips appear on the horizon as the next set approaches. The first wave lines up perfect and Joe starts paddling for it. The wave begins to gulp on the rock ledge and suddenly the two surfers see an ungodly sight. The wave itself forms into a grotesque, mammoth mouth and lets out a spine-tingling roar. Before Joe can change direction the mouth chomps down on him and gobbles him up. As the mouth/barrel closes down, a huge spray of blood spits into the channel. Joe is no more.

Now Pete has a menacing set of demon mouth barrels bearing down on him. He hears the collective set start to roar as it hungrily approaches this rare human feast. Pete has lived a hard life. He hasn't been that happy. He loves to get barrelled. He just watched his best friend get eaten. He decides what the fuck. The next wave in the set is a huge macker. Pete locks in super deep and sees the aquatic fangs open up and encapsulate him. He's way way back in there. Slotted like never before. He sees the vision. He sees no more.

sitka

OGLurker snapped some killer photos in Fiji
fijian niceness

fijian niceness

fijian niceness

fijian niceness

Yes, sick story e. Hump day!

Posted by: Ian at May 25, 2005 10:04 AM

Sitka, my future home... great story E!!!

Posted by: Mexi at May 25, 2005 10:17 AM

Good writing E. Best I can come up with is a dream that I wet the bed last night. Scary.

Caught a couple really fun waves after work last night - long and fast. Met Dan on the street pre-surf, the guy that makes those beautiful hollow wood surfboards. He had a beautiful wooden fish last night. I envy that kind of talent. Well, any kind of talent actually:)

This am hit it at the casa. I had a really frustrating session. Only three waves in an hour. Another guy near me got about 10. At least my last wave was a fun left. Almost made it worth it. I think my arm were too tired to paddle from last night.

Waves to the left of me
Waves to the right
Here I am
Stuck in the middle again.

Posted by: Dennis at May 25, 2005 10:21 AM

e, you must a been dreaming about a break called graveyards, pictured below on a less ferocious day

Posted by: 49'er at May 25, 2005 10:26 AM

A wave at Swami's....

http://www.deafsurf.org/USA/movies/KooksDropInSwami2.mov

Posted by: Hb at May 25, 2005 10:35 AM

I went fishing last night and caught some fun waves, this morning was frustrating, took the Longboard out and got a couple shoulderless waves...

Posted by: Mexi at May 25, 2005 10:47 AM

yea, rad story e.

Off to HI for the honeymoon on Monday morning (getting married on Friday night). Had a bad ding in a brand new board that Alex is fixing for me in one day (actually- he just called and its still wet so Ill pick it up on Sunday). Super stoked - thanks Alex.

Still debating on whether I should even bring it though. Dennis (I think) claimed a while back that it is worth renting in HI. However, another bro of mine said that every other time he surfs there he bangs up his board.

Besides, Ive also heard that there are not lots of fish around to rent. Maybe that has changed.

Should I bring my new short board and an old shortboard (for rocky spots), my new short board and new fish (even though it has glassed on fins), or just leave all boards here and rent there and pay any damage charges?

Any suggestions are helpful. Apologies in advance for bringing up this boring board question again.

Cheers

Posted by: traut at May 25, 2005 10:49 AM

Dennis, funny.. I had that same dream last night. Weird. Hey does that guy Dan post on Swaylocks? I've seen a couple different postings/pictures on there about the hollow balsa. Sick boards. I bet they're so responsive, did you get a chance to ride one? 3to5 thanks for the post last night.

Also, anyone looking for new music? Check out "M83." They're a cross of electro stylish Album Leaf and RJD2. Some mellow songs, a few others jam out pretty hard.

Posted by: Ian at May 25, 2005 10:51 AM

traut, don't take the new fish. take the shortboards. And if anything, rent a longboard, it's gunna be small.

Posted by: Ian at May 25, 2005 10:52 AM

hey all.. i know this has been discussed before, but i'm looking for book recommendations for my 2 week baja trip coming up. what should i read?

congrats Traut!!! taking the plunge!

Posted by: e at May 25, 2005 10:55 AM

congrats traut -- Oahu? If so plenty of long boards for rent. short boards tend to be trashed and may not meet your expectations -- however if you let the baggage goons handle your board it may also get trashed.
e- assume you have the surfers guide to baja?

Posted by: mig at May 25, 2005 11:01 AM

Danny's last name is Hess, he has several of his boards posted at Swaylocks. A real fish fanatic, he takes his short wooden fish into some sizeable waves at OB.

Posted by: blakestah at May 25, 2005 11:04 AM

Maui then Kauai. A week at each island. Haven't done loads of resarch yet on breaks etc but expect to figure it out when I get there. Ian is right though, so far it looks to be small for the first few days at least (which should keep me out of trouble with the wife). Did I just say wife?!?!

Posted by: traut at May 25, 2005 11:09 AM

yup mig.. i'm actually not looking for surf-related books.. more just pleasure/knowledge reading of a general sort..

some recent books i've read:
Roots
People's History of the United States
To Have and Have not
I and Thou - martin buber

Posted by: e at May 25, 2005 11:13 AM

saw some waves last night didnt surf though..10 days dry so far! woo hoo! ya e surfers guide to baja seemed pretty good, covers TJ to Cabo area same guy that wrote a costa rica one i think..ieee..funny video HB too bad swamis is such a zoo..

Posted by: bagel at May 25, 2005 11:16 AM

Traut, if headed to Oahu, take a board that you like. It is your honeymoon for Christ's sake. Celebrate your what you just did and enjoy the surf. You will have a strange feeling come over you after you realize you are married now. Might as well be on your favorite board or one that will make you that much happier.

In terms of swell, it is possible that you will get some south swell over there but you are going to need something that will catch you some waves. If the swell is good, or even if it isn't, you will be competiting to catch waves with longboarders no matter where you go. Take something that paddles well. I like to surf my modern fish on the south side. Flat rocker, fun, gets me waves. I hardly ride my shortboard over there.

I surfed Magic Island/Bomboras the morning before my wedding.

Enjoy the trip. If you get in a bind, I have a 6'4'' Flyer II that resides over there.

Posted by: Kaiser at May 25, 2005 11:17 AM

surf last night was soooo fun! I musta caught 40 waves in 2 hours? Wetsuit rash on my neck is a stinging reminder of how good last evening was. Ripping!

Posted by: AS at May 25, 2005 11:19 AM

Traut, I've heard some folks buy a used board and resell it before leaving. It's prolly cheap to fly it inter-island. Risky? I took my board to Kauai but it cost $100 round trip. So many folks get the boards damaged on the flights. I dunno. I guess it's just a matter of, "Do you feel lucky today, well do you Traut?"

Where are you staying in Maui and Kauai?

Posted by: Dennis at May 25, 2005 11:22 AM

oh that kind of reading i dont know much about. though i just started the red badge of courage..pretty rad so far..

and congrats traut!

Posted by: bagel at May 25, 2005 11:26 AM

hey e, have you read Water Music by T.C Boyle? If not, give that one a whirl, good dark comedy/adventure.

Posted by: the janitor at May 25, 2005 11:30 AM

congrats traut. i just got married last friday so i know exactly what you're going through. but after you get through all the ceremony stuff the only thing that really changes is that you'll feel a greater love/bond to each other. and that's rad. enjoy it.

and yeah, it is VERY hard to start using the 'wife' word!

Posted by: rza at May 25, 2005 11:32 AM

three suggestions e:

1-All The Kings Men by Robert Penn Warren
2-The Chaneysville Incident by David Bradley
3-The Liberation of Lord Byron Jones by Jesse Hill Ford.

A little on each.

All the Kings Men won the Pultizer and is one of the best books I've read in my life. 500 pages of prose, beautiful book. And get the new edition. Southern professor went through Warren's manuscripts and restored the book to its pre-editor natural beauty - significant changes worth a read even if you read the original version released in the 40s.

The Chaneysville Incident won the Penn Faulkner award, I believe. About an imbettered black historian's search to find the truth about his dad. In the process, Bradley paints the African-American's american experience in words that reach all four senses. Another great novel.

The Liberation of Lord Byron Jones. Written in Faulkner's style used in The Sound and the Fury. Each chapter is narrated by one of the book's characters. Story is not presented chronologically. Ford developes each character so well that you truly can step into each of their shoes by the end of the book. In the process, and through a page turning story, he describes the impossible situation of the african-american in the 1960s south.

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 11:33 AM

For the other side of the coin.. I've never had a board damaged going over there. Then again I've always buble-wrapped them. Also, they do charge like $50 each board, each way, which is a total crock of shit. But, if you decided to take more than one board, you usually get lucky when they ask how many boards you have. I've take 3 boards and got away with saying "Uhm, just one board." Dennis, Kaiser is right though, you may want to take your favorite board. It is your honeymoon. Anyone ever surf around the point at Makapuu or off Rabbit Island on Oahu? Always wondered if anyone has gotten waves over there.

Posted by: Ian at May 25, 2005 11:34 AM

Dennis / Ian - re: dreams, to much information! ;)

e - Last favorite book: "Heart of the World: A Journey to the Last Secret Place" by Ian Baker
Non-fiction about sneaking into Tibet to journey into the Tsangpo River Gorge (deepest gorge on the planet) - crazy stuff. Not your typical white-guy-on-an-expedition story. LOTS of stuff about local culture and beliefs. The author spent 20+ years studying buddhism in the Himalayas. Lots of footnotes, but don't let that put you off - they are well worth reading. Great book, I schlepped it to Tonga 'cause I couldn't put it down.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 25, 2005 11:41 AM

Better yet, buy a new board while you're over there. Prices are pretty good from what I saw last year. What the hell good is all the weding money if you can't splurge! New wife, new board, warm water and hot nights... You probably should get her something nice too just to keep it legit. Otherwise, the nights might get cold, wink wink nod nod.

Posted by: Dennis at May 25, 2005 11:46 AM

Traut, congrats. I spent my honeymoon surfing a bit too. My wife sleeps in, I'm an early riser. Every morning I surfed for a few hours before becoming the dutiful husband.
Make sure to have a chair and umbrella set-up for the wife, a good book, jug of water. you know the saying happy wife, happy life........

I sent Dennis an email with some details on Maui, send me an email at three2fivesetsof7@yahoo.com and I can forward it to you.

Bring one good board unless you know what the shops have got to rent. surfboards are meant to be enjoyed and consequently dinged. nothing worse than finding a great reef wave but having to ride some shitty rental funboard.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 25, 2005 11:49 AM

RZA - Contrats to you to man!!! Maybe we can all compete in the Newleweds Fear Factor game!!

Dennis - thanks for reminding me to print off my itinerary (my last day in the office - so much to do).

We are staying at friends condo for 3 days in Kanapali, Maui then at Lahaina Shores Beach resort in Lahaina. We then hop over to Kauai and will stay at the Outrigger Kiahuna Plantation in Koloa on Poipu rd.

Anyone know where I can get some foam for the fins (art supply store?)

Thanks everone for your niceness wishes!!!

Posted by: traut at May 25, 2005 11:49 AM

e, on my last surf trip, I grabbed a book off the shelf pretty much at random, it was a collection of shorter works by Leo Tolstoy that I think I originally acquired (and never read) for a college lit class. I had a cold & fever and was out of the water for a couple of days on the trip (while my friends scored sick head high + reef waves) so I read quite a bit of the book. It blew me away, very thought provoking stories. Especially the Kreutzer Sonata, it was hard to believe was written in the 1800s. I've always liked the russian writers, chehkov is good too.

Posted by: Eric at May 25, 2005 11:49 AM

and JOC! thanks for the invite! hope i didnt seem like the a-hole that i am inviting myself the other day..ill email you man

Posted by: bagel at May 25, 2005 11:52 AM

Man...I wish I had the attention span to read a novel. Best I can do is short stories....appropiately, I just started one on surfing in Alaska by Dave Parmenter. He's good enought to get me imagining Sitka the same as Mexi's photos. The Parmenter story is also in local writer's surf anthology, Zero Break.

http://www.surfermag.com/magazine/alaska04/

Posted by: Andrew on 57th at May 25, 2005 11:55 AM

Something to read:

"United States of Europe" - ?
"To Have and Have Not" - Hemingway
"Hells Angels" - HS Thompson
(I think it's called) "Log From the Sea of Cortez" - Steinbeck

All good reads.

Posted by: DAK at May 25, 2005 11:55 AM

there are not really any good board rentals on the north shore of kauai, i don't think. there are also no waves right now either though. i don't know about south shore though.
i am thinking am just going to rent when in go to the big island in july. this based upon no knowledge of what my rental options look like.
i rec this kid's book on par with chronicles of narnia, maybe better: golden compass.
this is a total pleasure read, i.e. not intellectually edifying like the ones listed above but its a good one for lazy days on the beach. got your email.

Posted by: steamwand at May 25, 2005 11:55 AM

Another book: Happy Isles of Oceania, Paul Theroux. About kayaking through many of the s. pacific island groups. Lots of intersting digressions into history as well as pretty unvarnished look at these places and their relation to the wider world.

Posted by: eric at May 25, 2005 11:56 AM

traut - I've got a foam fin-block that was made for a thruster, you're welcome to borrow it if you think it'll work for your fish. e knows how to contact me. And congrats on your wedding.

Posted by: Jimmie at May 25, 2005 11:57 AM

Another T.C. Boyle - The Descent of Man. Short stories. Hilarious short stories. Like Twilight Zone on acid.

Found a copy in a room in Costa Rica and it just capped off a great trip.

Posted by: R3W at May 25, 2005 11:57 AM

Nice Traut. I stayed in Poipu Beach last year. Very nice and laid back. I had chest high surf all week and the locals were friendly (where I was surfing anyway). I met a guy named Mike that's a chef at Hanapepe Cafe. He went to culinary school in SF in the early 80's. Can't wait to go back.

Thanks again 3to5 for the Maui info.

Posted by: Dennis at May 25, 2005 12:02 PM

and if you like travel writing at all, "In Patagonia" by Bruce Chatwin is classic and the archetype of the genre. It's a great book, not super long.

Posted by: eric at May 25, 2005 12:03 PM

Alaska is sick! You're stoked Mexi.

Congrats RZA/traut. Going on an honeymoon with surf (I did the same thing) is a great way to let the new wifey know what she's in store for!

I would rent boards- we actually got some good ones in Hanalei Bay Kauai

Fin foam home depot- I've found that those inflatable inserts that Amazon etc ships works really well for fin/board protecting- You can use a partially inflated beach ball etc. or heavy duty balloons/ punching ball- they also make cool lightweight gifts to local kids (more 3rd world style)

Posted by: artifact at May 25, 2005 12:11 PM

and if you like travel writing a little more than that, you can't go wrong with peter matthiessen.

Posted by: friendly at May 25, 2005 12:14 PM

eric- great book, Happy Isles of Oceania, Paul Theroux. I read three or so of his novels and the guy is classic! Kind of a smart ass too. Wanderlust...

E- cool story, I want to surf up there this winter and visit some family up there, can't wait!

Posted by: flap at May 25, 2005 12:17 PM

my wedding present from my wife was a da kine travel bag. i love her!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 25, 2005 12:18 PM

Chicks suck.

Posted by: Mr. negative at May 25, 2005 12:32 PM


Robert Kaplan _ "the ends of the earth"

excellent travel book, guy goes to some of the more remote and hostile places in the world... one of my all time favorites, inspires me to get out to the places less traveled, regardless of surf.

Posted by: Mexi at May 25, 2005 12:34 PM

thanks for the book recommendations everyone. i'm storing them all away.. rightious!

Posted by: e at May 25, 2005 12:36 PM

Remember Sitka is on an inner island, there is a small beach called sandy Beach, but waves are few and far between, there are no points around there. But it is an amazing place with an abundance of tasty salmon, blad eagles and Brown bears.

biggest waves in Sitka

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 12:56 PM

yeah, but it's still something like the fastest depopulating place in america...

wait, maybe that's because the waves are so small.

Posted by: friendly at May 25, 2005 01:00 PM

sorry to hog the blog but anyone notice the ship that appeared to run ashore at about 5:45am? it was near shore, tilted, and was not bobbing witht the waves, it made it out about 6:15.

Posted by: Mexi at May 25, 2005 01:03 PM

Or maybe it's because of Exxon...

Posted by: Mexi at May 25, 2005 01:05 PM

Mexi, are talking near the zoo? If so, It's the sand dumping Army Corp of Engineers. They've been in and out of there pretty much 24/7 for the last week.

Posted by: Dennis at May 25, 2005 01:14 PM

That makes sense, thanks dennis.

Posted by: Mexi at May 25, 2005 01:20 PM

Cool to see you last week, E.

Jitterbug Perfume - Tom Robbins
The Future of History - a collection of Howard Zinn interviews with David Barsamian (you can borrow it if you want)
Ender's Game - Orson Scott Card
and The Guide to Getting it on, is a fun read and can freshen up the repertoire.

Posted by: bird at May 25, 2005 01:27 PM

Flap,
You sure nailed me BRO. Can't score with ladies, can't surf. What else you got, maybe I have a small dick too? Just keep flapping your flap.

Ian, I was wrong calling you a spoiled brat. Maybe more of a excited puppy?! btw: I hope you score waves, women and song harder than Flap.

Posted by: KindaTiredofSomeShit at May 25, 2005 01:29 PM

hey friendly, how have you been?

nice to have you back.

Posted by: bird at May 25, 2005 01:29 PM

Alaska recreation factoid - the Forest Service rents over 200 cabins for $25-$45/night in the Tongass and Chugach Nat'l Forests. Easy to find online with maps and pictures. A few north of Sitka (near Alaska's fairly well known surf spots) look like they might be worth a stay with a board and a fly rod.

I stayed in one on the Kenai peninsula. It was pure Jack London.

Posted by: R3W at May 25, 2005 01:33 PM

Mexi, sounds like we had a near miss this am. I was solo about 100 yards north of you I think. In the water at 6:15.

Posted by: Dennis at May 25, 2005 01:42 PM

Traut,

Use this to check surf reports and surf forecasts on Oahu:

Surf News Network. Just google it. It uses the old Hawaiian style measurements, e.g. 3-4 feet hawaiian is considered overhead, and 6 feet is double overhead, etc...

Or call 808-596-SURF while you're down there for surf updates. Doesn't look like there's going to be much surf in the coming weeks, so you might want to just bring your snorkel gear. ;-)

Posted by: MSG at May 25, 2005 01:52 PM

Deep Survival by Laurence Gonzalez
Who lives Who dies and why

no its not about Townshend Moon and company

Posted by: mig at May 25, 2005 02:01 PM

anything by paul theroux is awesome. the guy can talk himself outta trouble in a dozen languages, travels DIY ghetto style, and has an endless supply of knowledge and clever ideas. he is by far the best modern travel writer (imho).

mexi, i've read that kaplan book and some others and enjoyed them - although he can be a bit pedantic and dry. i went to a lecture of his last year and was disappointed to learn of his somewhat right-leaning views. the lecture was focused on how the military must evolve was sponsored by the Marine's Memorial club.

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 02:02 PM

that's mine

Posted by: rza at May 25, 2005 02:03 PM

where do i send the quarter for the use of pedantic?

pedantic

SYLLABICATION: pe·dan·tic
PRONUNCIATION: p-dntk
ADJECTIVE: Characterized by a narrow, often ostentatious concern for book learning and formal rules: a pedantic attention to details.
OTHER FORMS: pe·danti·cal·ly —ADVERB
SYNONYMS: pedantic, academic, bookish, donnish, scholastic These adjectives mean marked by a narrow, often tiresome focus on or display of learning and especially its trivial aspects: a pedantic writing style; an academic insistence on precision; a bookish vocabulary; donnish refinement of speech; scholastic and excessively subtle reasoning.

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 02:07 PM

REBOOT

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 25, 2005 02:11 PM

traut
check with sa at tamba surf in kapaa ..guy has more freckles than there are stars in the milky way..
he usually has consignment boards for sale.
also hanalei surf does a swap meet on the first saturday of every month 9 am. May & June are good times to hit it as the guys who have been over there for "the season" sell their boards to help buy plane tickets home

Posted by: otf at May 25, 2005 02:15 PM

sorry to spam but in case anyone's looking for a good alt country show to check out this weekend, a good surfing friend of mine's band The Idaho Falls (from LA) is playing at Hotel Utah on Saturday and in Oakland on Sunday. Here are the details:

Saturday, May 28th in San Francisco at the Hotel Utah with The Bittersweets, and Ryan Auffenberg

Sunday, May 29th in Oakland, an acoustic in-store at Mod Lang records (2pm)
and a happy-hour show at the Ivy (5pm) with Mandrake and members of Rogue Wave.

Posted by: eric at May 25, 2005 02:26 PM

e, read some murakami.
wind up bird chronicals

good reads. i have a feeling you would like it.

Posted by: elias at May 25, 2005 02:31 PM

It's Baaaaccckkkk. I can see Twin Peaks from my office. The fog is overtaking the tops. Haven't seen that since last summer. It time to start doing surf checks by ear.

Posted by: Dennis at May 25, 2005 02:35 PM

Steamwand - I've rented boards in Kona a few times and never seen anything that was any good. Sure rideable, but they were always expensive and its easy to ding em making them super expensive. I'm going over in a few weeks, maybe things have changed.

Books:
Cannery Row and Winter of our Discontent....Steinbeck (both short colorful Monterey based books).

Still Life with Woodpecker.....Tom Robbins (if you've never read Robbins I'd start here, great book).

Posted by: tucker at May 25, 2005 02:49 PM

Oh and thanks for skate tips. I am concentrating on making the turns tighter. Had a few good runs this AM. Sick!

Posted by: tucker at May 25, 2005 02:50 PM

Monday night I weighed 167 lbs. Exercised for 6 hours in the heat. Tuesday I rested and ate quite a bit, approx. 5000 calories. One whole oreo pie, 5 sandwiches, kalbi, beer and more. I know, glutony.

Wednesday morning I weigh 176 lbs. WTF? 10 lbs in a day! Now, Wednesday afternoon I'm at 172 lbs, my normal hydrated weight.

I drank some gatorade recovery drink on Tuesday and wonder if this stuff makes you retain water or something?

Posted by: acrocronicoculor at May 25, 2005 03:04 PM

anon, save your quarter....hit me with a bowl or offer me a wave!

Posted by: rza at May 25, 2005 03:09 PM

California Beach Bummers 2004-2005

Rank Beach/County

1 Imperial Beach at Seacoast Drive to Border Field State Park at the Border Fence (San Diego)
2 Doheny Beach from North Beach to 1000 feet south of the San Juan Creek (Orange)
3 Cabrillo Beach harborside at the lifeguard tower (Los
Angeles)
4 Campbell Cove State Park Beach at Bodega Bay (Sonoma)
5 Avalon Beach between the storm drain and Busy Bee Restaurant on
Catalina Island (Los Angeles)
6 Baby Beach at Dana Point Harbor (Orange)
7 Pacific Beach, P.B. Point downcoast of Linda Way (San
Diego)
8 Pillar Point Harbor #5 (San Mateo)
9 Redondo Municipal Pier (Los Angeles)
10 Paradise Cove west of the pier (Los Angeles)


Solid work out of HMB!!!!

Posted by: Kaiser at May 25, 2005 03:09 PM

KindaTiredofSomeShit, I'm sorry I did'nt even think about the fact that you had a small pecker. But I would never kick a man when he is down or had a small pecker, but since you mentioned it, you probably have alot more problems with the ladies then we all thought before. I can bust these fierce 'soul' comebacks all day!!!

Let's battle...know any tough raps you want throw down!?!


You're killing me!!!

Posted by: flap at May 25, 2005 03:15 PM

traut: i was in kauai in feb. winter surf is on the north shore, summer surf is the south shore where you will be, from where you are staying you should be able to walk out to breaks and drive not too far to what is supposed to be the best summer break there. i brought boards but I saw lots of rental places. it didn't look like there was a lot of quality, but ok if you are not looking for anything too high performance.

be sure to get a hot dog from Puka Dog in the poipu village shopping center. no joke dude it is one of the best things i have ever eaten.

and btw - congrats!

Posted by: vons at May 25, 2005 03:17 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at May 25, 2005 03:20 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at May 25, 2005 03:24 PM

tucker - if you see any shops that seem to have decent boards for a reasonable price let me know. any kona/big island scoopage that you got for me, i'd love to have. steamwand89 at yahoo.
did you end up checking out those central coast spots or was that someone else?
oh and don't listen to the naysayers about not picking up skating later in life. i'm 28 and i just got a board again. haven't skated seriously since i was in middle school and i'm having fun at that skate park. i'm terrible and my butt hurts, but who cares?

Posted by: steamwand at May 25, 2005 03:33 PM

Flap is a cocksucker

Posted by: MB Trash at May 25, 2005 03:33 PM

Traut, gotta throw you a few bones on Kauai honeymoon tip.

Poipu Shopping Center has the best cheap eats, that dog is damn good and the wife and I also enjoyed the little Thai place in there. We ate at the beachhouse which I thought was overpriced, great friggin view though. All the good south spots are right there as well. Driving to the North or back from it eat an Ono Burger, tasty. Definitely if you are into hiking you gotta go to the top of the Napali Coast (Koke'e), wife and I were covered in the "mud" when we were done but loved standing on top of one of the pinnacles of the Napali Coast. Hike is in my top 5 for sure. Amazing.

For surfboards, I was recommended to go to Dr.Dings on the South Shore in Waimea I think. They have a big rack of consignment boards so you buy one of those, then leave it back on consignment when you go home, they will send you the money when it sells. Lots of people do it and it worked great for me after I rented some beat up junker and decided that I needed a real board for these real waves. Had an epic south swell come through, you might be lucky too cause looks like Fiji is gonna get slammed next week.

Of course don't leave your new wife sitting on the beach on the sunset of your final day there while you surf epic waves. Will never live that one down, I'll take it to the grave with me...

That being said, what Panic shows you hitting this summer? Tahoe? Greek?

Posted by: kookdom at May 25, 2005 03:41 PM

stall flap out, yo.

flap's good people.

Posted by: tom at May 25, 2005 03:44 PM

biggest catfish ever caught

Posted by: e at May 25, 2005 03:53 PM

Bob Carrillo

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 04:00 PM

this guy plays a mean guitar

Posted by: e at May 25, 2005 04:02 PM

uh, what I meant to say is Bob Carrillo knows all about Hawaii. Ask him.

Speaking of Hawaii, anyone watch Dog the Bounty Hunter? Have fun with your honey on the beach as the meth heads swope on your new wife while you get beat down by meth heads in the lineup. Come back to your rent a car and find everything is snagged by same meth heads.

Posted by: bobcarrilloisbad at May 25, 2005 04:04 PM

Let's just keep things in perspective.

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 04:08 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at May 25, 2005 04:09 PM

thats one big catfish.

Posted by: bagel at May 25, 2005 04:20 PM

kookdom - thanks for the bones. Going to all Tahoe and Greek shows. Getting a room a Ceasers so perhaps the n-heads can meet there for pre, mid or post show drinks.

Posted by: traut at May 25, 2005 04:24 PM

last book i read 'bowling alone'. kinda dry at times, but thought provoking. one i'd like to check out is 'freakanomics', if you get it tell me how it is.

Posted by: j at May 25, 2005 04:39 PM

tore down the old house and put up a freeway in true so cal fashion,
the boys lived 12 miles from the beach and didn't surf but they "got around"

Posted by: http://www.beachboyslandmark.org/ at May 25, 2005 04:41 PM

Killer Traut, will be at Ceasers as well, wife and I are staying there too. Tahoe > Greek is gonna be a really good time. We will definitely need to hook up in Tahoe, that venue is tiny. The combo of being able to go in and out of the venue whenever you want, hotel room just up the elevator, open 24 hours, and gambling is pretty sick. Just add Panic. For the day we will probably go chill at Zephyr Cove, great beach on south shore. Good luck with the wedding, try to enjoy it as it goes by really fast. Honeymoons rule!

Posted by: kookdom at May 25, 2005 04:43 PM

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 04:46 PM

Posted by: engine's just gettin' warm at May 25, 2005 04:48 PM

Just found this. I guess we're all ok with rip currents but might be of interest, or at least an excuse to take a long lunch and have a cold one at the BC.

MEDIA ADVISORY

WHAT: A media briefing about the dangerous rip currents at San Francisco's Ocean Beach and another rare beach hazard, tsunamis. As the Memorial Day weekend approaches and people flock to the beach, rip currents pose a special hazard along this section of the coast.

The United States Lifesaving Association estimates that about 80 percent of lifeguard rescues at the country's surf beaches are of people caught in rip currents.

WHEN: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. TOMORROW, Thursday, May 26.

WHERE: Parking lot across from the Beach Chalet, just south of the intersection of Lincoln Ave. and the Great Highway, San Francisco.

WHO: Francis Smith, Ph.D., a recent graduate of the University of California, Berkeley, and an expert on the rip currents at Ocean Beach. With the assistance of Ocean Beach lifeguards, Smith will demonstrate self-rescuing techniques to use if caught in a rip current. He will be joined by Robert Wiegel, professor emeritus of civil engineering at UC Berkeley and a world expert on tsunamis and the properties of ocean waves.

DETAILS: Smith, a coastal oceanographer, has studied rip currents at Ocean Beach for the past eight years, but has had experience with them since he was a teenage surfer in the 1970s and a San Francisco lifeguard in the 1980s. Smith holds this popular briefing periodically to publicize the dangers of rip currents in the hopes of preventing drownings.

Wiegel, Smith's Ph.D. advisor, has been credited with creating the discipline of ocean engineering, with studies on the coastal effects of undersea earthquakes and landslides, coastal erosion, the effects of waves on seawalls and breakwaters and the impact of waves on offshore platforms.

Posted by: con at May 25, 2005 04:53 PM

E, Bob Dylans Chronicles is a good read. Also, songwriters on songwriting (Paul Zollo)700 pages, skip around from Zappa, Santana, knopfler, madonna, merle haggard etc.., their thoughts on the art. Can someone please throw some clean waves our way? Thanks!

Posted by: The Wrestler at May 25, 2005 04:55 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at May 25, 2005 04:58 PM

e- read a confederacy of dunces if u havent you'll laugh your ass off! Also where are you going in baja, if you are going as far as cabo/or just a bit north of it I have some wonderful spots and personalities for you to enjoy. let me know

Posted by: antman at May 25, 2005 05:16 PM

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 05:21 PM

antman. nice. i'd love any tips and such for baja sur. hit me up at e@niceness.org

sweeet.

Posted by: e at May 25, 2005 05:21 PM

My Spidey sense tells me ...that 'KindaTiredofSomeShit' and 'MB Trash' are one and the same ignorant kook poster. Hmmmmnnnnmmm...well, it's ok 'litle one' don't get all insecure on us now. I can take you out for some surf lessons some time and maybe teach you how to multitask too.

Don't be a hater and don't work so hard on your comebacks cause you are a flailer!

Drop it before I have to embarrass you again.

Posted by: flap at May 25, 2005 05:26 PM

Flap,
Your "spidey sense" is dead wrong. MB is his own man. I would only call you surfer bad names.....Kook.

You came, claimed, and named. That's my beef with you. I'm not a fan of ego exploitation.
We got's different houses of style Flap.

I'm bowing out, Niceness only has room for one windbag.

May you flap forever.

Over and Out,
TiredofSomeShit


Posted by: TiredofSomeShit at May 25, 2005 06:12 PM

TOSS--Well my apologies to Mb but I haven't named or claimed so piss orf.

Posted by: flap at May 25, 2005 06:45 PM

just the canyon, yawn

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 06:49 PM

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 06:59 PM

Attention, attention, the canyon has not been a secret spot since 1978.

Stop the madness...

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 07:30 PM

Canyon, huh? Is there good surfing there? What kind of surfing board would I need? I like blue ones.

Hey, that talk on OB rip currents sounds like it could be interesting (supposing it's more informative about OB currents than "they're dangerous, paddle side-shore"). Anyone know him (Francis Smith)? I wonder if he'd be willing to write something up to post on E's or Blakestah's site?

Posted by: kloo at May 25, 2005 08:40 PM

You guys need some surf.

Posted by: Bruce at May 25, 2005 08:43 PM

Why is the Army dumping sand in the ocean?

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 08:50 PM

Traut,

Check out "Guns, Germs, and Steel" (Jared Diamond) for a serious non-fiction read or "Jaguars Ripped my Flesh" (Tim Cahill) for a funny adventure travelogue.

If I were in your shoes I would take my fish and rent a longboard on each island.

Posted by: steve-o at May 25, 2005 09:03 PM

Could one conceive a hybrid between the CapabilitySecurityModel and AccessControlLists? For example, where users hold a list of magic beans (or something), and entities are manipulable only by those holding one of a certain set of magic bean. This would not be more powerful than either capabilities or ACLs, but might make administration easier - rather than just having a 'frob the hodad' permission which is given to, say, administrators and developers alike, there would be two separate beans for each kind of user, and the hodad would allow itself to be frobbed by anyone who held either.

Posted by: at May 25, 2005 09:31 PM

Best day of skimboarding in the last month. Long one footers peeling for two miles and perfect for ripping. Now I would have liked to get to the ocean with the sun shinning this week, but the wind wips up some fat mondo barrels and A-town is firing for the skim curl riding, Yeah!!

Posted by: eastbayrob at May 25, 2005 10:37 PM

Posted by: eastbayrob fan at May 25, 2005 10:57 PM

The engineers are dumping sand to combat beach erosion.

An acquaintance of mine was working with the Corps on trying to coordinate all the agencies necessary to get the annual channel dredging dumped offshore at second lot Sloat to combat erosion. The channel is dredged annually to clear the shipping lane.

Either way it can make some very fun very temporary sand bars.

If Francis Smith, or anyone really, wants to write something of general interest and value to local surfers, I'd be happy to host it or link to it FOC. Please note I require both interest and value, angry Bad Vibe letters will not be hosted (although a good brigade rant, OTOH)...

Posted by: blakestah at May 26, 2005 08:17 AM
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