E's Surf Report

I was in Minnesota all weekend, hot as hell with tons of fine women strolling around the lakes. I mindsurfed perfectly groomed half inch A frames on the lakes....Even with this rain and crap surf I'm so happy to be home in the bay area!

hollywood is not the place to send your kids...

I like the imagery of your last session for an extended period of time. I haven't been out for quite a while now and I can't recall my last session at all. One question remains though, who is EGP?

somebody get those ladies a cheeseburger.
or better yet a quesoburguesa.
that is scary.

almost as scary as the surf here.

only two weeks til my rocky mtn jaunt
and a dozen panic shows. yahooo!!

wake me when it is september.

My weekend brought me to my ancestral homeland of Long Island, where Sunday's boardless DP yielded no breakwable waves over the Robert Moses sandbar. The waves at Rockway looked better from the sad news report of a drowing and a heart-attack of a rescuer. It made me realize how bad public education of "swim parellel to shore" is. Even here at OB, you'd think there'd be a poster up next to the snowy plover board. Maybe they just don't want to encourage swimming on any level here in SF.

Cool to see you using some pics from Bryan's page. He just shaped a nice one for a buddy. www.sevensurfboards.com (not the pop-out brand!)

4@14 tomorrow with slack to light winds for northern Oregon...should be fun!!

damn lindsey lohan was hot for like 3 minutes..oh well...looked fun in the rain this mornign actually..but i waived it..

Some fun ones this a.m. again at the secret spot

South shiftiness at the secret spot setting up on the seasonal sandbar. Smooth surface. Satisfying surf.

Every surf could be your last one. When I blew a disk I was out for 3 months. I wasn't sure I would ever surf again. I had severe back pain and sciatica that left one leg numb most of the time. The back doc finally just told me to go surfing. I vividly remember the first time back in the water. Pure magic as I got on the board, floated for a second and paddled out to greet a few friends in the lineup. That was when I started saying to people to keep surfing no matter what.

hey harvest, how do you know bates? we may know each other via family stone??

I was at the secret spot.....doing something vaguely resembling surfing this am along with DMAN.

Vaguely.

The real problem with you Korewin is you went to CR, that'll blow your whole perspective on summer surf. You need to get some stoke back in it - like maybe look through your slides of Jan 19!

Epic surf--on the Wisconsin scale ("it's all about the stook"). I thought I knew which bar kdalle was talking about, because one has been working reliably for me in small stuff when it sucks up- and down- beach, but it wasn't really happening this morning 9 to 10:30.

say no to crowds

Pipe Master Alana

j - serious deep shit and i absolutely remember every moment of my last sesh. it was sunny with longboarding dream peelers coming through. not epic but classic. i thought about everything you wrote about - checked out the mountains behind me, highway 1 in the distance, fog horn kickin'. i still feel it. i remember telling myself, "this is it, last time for back yard surfing." how many times did i sit in the same spot and say, "this is why i can never leave CA." oh well.

was actually just telling my wife last night that i need to cash in some delta miles and get back out. i'm jonesin' hard.

keep pimpin' and keep searchin'

egp

j, your giving e a run for his money. good stuff.

EG is back!

damn, anybody get in on the ben harper pre-sale this morn'? i forgot about it and it sold out.

About that Robb Davis pic... The best thing about the picture is what you don't see. In order to get to those little rock bottom peaks you would have had drive through miles of clear cut forest into an national park, down a gravel road. Make you way from the gravel parking lot about a mile down a moist dirt and moss trail through giant old growth Sitka Spruce over a suspension bridge and through a temperate rain foest, 5 years ago you would have seen some small squater cabins with a few surfers chillin on ther porches (CNPS demolished the cabin and evicted them 5 years ago, One of them was a draft dodging American who'd leved there for 30 years, his son Jesse ripped). At the end of this you get to a cobble stone beach with a rock point and three clearly defined peaks spread out along a 1/2 mile of prestine coast. Waterfalls draining water into the ocean. Not world class, but one of my favorite spots on earth. Great place for them there silly sibons

Sweet notes today J...

blakestah-I was at the other secret spot.

www.allfunnypictures.com/images/fitness.jpg">

nice one, j. you are rollin' this week--!

my last CA surf for a while (or so i thought at the time) was with two of niceness at OB on whitecappy AM. stormy-cloudy in june, water was slate. little purple floatie j'fish were all over the place, pretty much covering the deck of my board. all of it rideable in an OB summertime kinda way...

the bryan bates mention has my curiosity peaked, as i'm thinking about acquiring a second vehicle. rode a cort gion last weekend and was impressed...he's one of "the" orygun shapers? (pardon the ignorance.) also, 3to5 has mentioned his Olea ride from cabo a few times....the Olea i had down there was the most fun board i've ever been on. could not believe how easy it was to push the thing into waves. it was so, so light and turnable. highly recommended.

Crappy conditions but got some lumps in and one epic party wave w/kloo as we zoomed from one secret sandbar a few blocks up to the other probable secret sandbar. Towards the end of the sesh muttered something about wishing I had my shorter board [ it was kinda dumpy ] and instantly snagged 2 of the best Flying Brick rides in recent memory. Nothing fancy, but nice suprise! Surfing rules. Kloo got an awesome ride after making the necessary sacrifices to a shallow closeout on the same peak.

I assume every session could be my last - this makes the 49f water and aerobic paddling fun.

Aren't the olea boards 12 - 16 feet long?

This just in. Warning: shark story. 25 ft offshore?

http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20050608/us_nm/life_shark_dc

Who's DMAN? Yeah, it was a hot session this am. The sandbars reformed to perfection. The water was warm and the sun shone brightly on my face. As I paddled out, a macker was peaking right in front of me. I had two choices, duck-dive or bail. Suddenly I realized a third choice. Get off the board, stand up in the knee-high water, and jump over the top of the wave. So I bailed. Well, all of the above is not exactly true. On the other hand, everything is relative. I was happy to get out regardless of the conditions.

kdalle - So true, so true. I've just accepted the fact that no matter how careful I am, or how much work I do to keep in shape, sometimes surfing is gonna rile up my old back injury. So what!? I'm gonna keep surfing ANYWAY!

The linking of a news story on a shark attack with the release of Jaws on DVD, wow, sounds like the linking of the "discovery" fossils w/ the release of Jurassic Park II.

the olea i was on was a 9'.

...and it was probably 200 pounds lighter than my beaten up 9' at home. (ok, that is a slight exaggeration.)

glad to hear some people got waves this AM! tomorrow....

I thought an olea was a 12 -16 foot board with a narrow pin tail, pointy nose and usually made from wood. The Duke rode a 16 footer, Skip Frye rides a 13 footer, they are often ridden in over-head waves.

mo vee-dub

16' foot? not ridden by me. and there was nothing overhead at zippers in early sept 2004.

interesting history, mexi. the olea i was on--which i suppose makes it the carnie knockoff hobaja olea?--was brand new. traditional log shape, single fin, but all fiberglass and very light. same co? lo, the irony.

ps: every time i post, that anorexic heroin addict shot of whatshername and whatshername scares me. shiite.

mexi - true, true re: the robb davis pic. you're well travelled, would love to grab a beer and shoot the shit one day. you gonna be at the mid-summer kookout at casa de sharkbait?

friendly - yup, cort makes some nice boards, too. where do you hail from/surf up there? hit me at nitsuj@gmail.com. we should split a scottish at the pelican in august if you'll be around PC for the LB contest.

Original board sized varied, with the major disticntion that only royalty rode olo, because you needed a team of serveants to haul them. But I've read 6 to 12 feet alaia boards. Orignal hawaiian boards tended to be real thick.

Apparently everyone loves surfing in the shorebreak.

sucks when you have a trip all lined up and this happens....

i love trying naked floaters

now

Ancient kneeboarder

hey j....i'm in eugene now, getting my m.arch. trying desperately to finish one last term paper. i'll put niceness in the bibliography.

we should grab a pint next august. don't know if i'll be back in time for the contest, but i'll drop you a line. there's fun to be had!

J, I may be there, I'm flying south for the summer on the 21st, so it depends on when the shindig is.

The Olea, I guess I was thinking OLO or alaia

"No matter how far you've been there is always someone that has gone further and stayed long."

Longer not long

da shack

nothing but...

this blog is surprisingly pleasant considering current surf conditions. i haven't surfed for a couple weeks and envy the motivation of our ocean's faithful suitors. i even watched some inspirational speaker on KQED a couple nights ago hoping to be inspired.....why can't i love during the off-season?!

great discussions both today and yesterday. nice work j.

homie third from the right (including swimming guy) on that inside party waves got a sick style..so relaxed

i'm over spring surf. i just bought a new skateboard.

hey b-stah!

thanks for the reminder to get stoked!
i am working up to it. sorta like working up
to the long pants, shoes (oh—and socks too),
long john shirt this a.m. and beanie.

thinking of going down south this week...

needing to get wet.

cheers ya'll!

3to5, i >think

ahh crap, my message got ixnayed by the logbay emonsday. onofabitchsay.

3to5, i think it was you that said you work in the RWC area? true/false?

e may be here right now

giant red legged crabs

been looking for one of these for my apt. any tropical gardeners out there have a hookup?

I scored some fun waves today and i dont mind sharing with you all the details. I checked the tide and made the walk from the mavericks parking lot. Sure enough the reef was covered with enough agua to let some wave-esque forms roll there way toward my longboard and i. It was fun and i caught to long ones but if it wasnt for the persistant "jaws" music in my head i wouldve stayed out longer. I did have a seal keep me company the whole time so it wasnt that lonely.

j,
i'm headed to Kauai next week
see coconut spruts every time i go there
if you seriously want one
i'll put it in a box and ship it to you
gimme your e mail so i can get your address

J-

I hope e is at that first photo. El Farro looks very familiar and I think that place is a surfer's playground.

Happy for him that bastard...fuckin Tom is still postin Indo pics...I may not get to travel this summer...I dont think I can make it.

filling the kaiser void

j,

true. y tu?

3to5, yup yup. over on broadway, just south of woodside.

mig, hit me up at nitsuj@gmail.com. would be stoked if you could hook me up. when i was i hawaii didn't even think of it, than saw 'em at the airport but figured it wouldn't clear the agriculture check stand....last time got my bag mega-searched because my wadded up boxers apparently looked like an apple to their scanners. they were adamant i was hiding an apple in my bag, was comedy.

Dana Schutz

wow.. this must be euro scum..
http://www.swellster.com/

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