small this morning. waves yesterday after work!
Pretty teeny this morning.
Maybe with a bit of foam under your feet you could harness some wave energy?
Wind not too bad.
Low-tide, dumpy, waist-high windswell.
Nobody out through the north end as of 6:40.
I'm not exactly sure what happened yesterday but i rounded the corner of 45th and Lincoln on my bike, coming out of the park on my way home from work. I gazed to the right and the ocean didn't appear it's typical blown-out, miserable afternoon self. Hmmmm. Looked at the flag and it hung flaccid on its pole. hmmmm.. I road down for a check and sure enough things were working. Sprint to the house. suit up. out in the water with Brett and Paul, arty folk who dig the afternoon jams. Peaky, semi-glassy, headhigh, nonstop windswell wedges and ramps. I decided to try Brett's 5'9" Manny quad-finned fish. The waves were great but I ended up stepping off the back of that little square-feeling speck of a board almost every takeoff!! arggh! It was difficult to adjust to having so little board in front of the front foot. Eventually we traded boards and my personal session got much better. Very cool backdoor sections came through. Paul ripped some smooth, stylish top turns. I mostly bungled my waves but got up to the top on a few meatier ones and clicked the lip. There were so many damn waves coming through it was ridiculous. Many were a bit on the slow/mushy side but if you crammed yourself into the little power pockets that did exist you could find some speed and opportunity. I usually don't even consider the afternoon session in summer but sometimes it pays to keep a lookout.
Surfing two different boards, the 5'9" fish then a thin, 6'6", wide-nosed Mystic shortboard, i realized how partial i am to my own board. I don't know if it's good or bad but i feel WAY WAY more confident and capable on my 6'8" Coffey. It's got a little more foam and just feels so much more solid and fast than the two boards i rode yesterday. I guess it's also just whatever you're used to. I know that everyone says to ride a fish that's 6 inches shorter than your shortboard but i rode Bandini's 6'4" Skip Frey fish one time and really dug that.
anyhoo.. be on the lookout after work today for a repeat??
HUGE Cloudbreak - from sargesdailysurf.com
Gold Coast surf check
Sarge pic
Fred P beats Kalani and Tom Curren in round one of the Reunion contest
The Fantomas are weird and dischordant but some of there shit hits nice and hard (interview with Mike Patton)
Buzzo of the Melvins (and Fantomas)
Checking air prices to Central America and I am perplexed. Tickets to Costa Rica are the cheapest right now despite being a greater distance south. Nutty. Think I am going to drive a van and head to baja......
Posted by: pez at June 24, 2005 10:07 AMi surfed "panics" near ala moana about two weeks ago & fred p paddled out. rest of us were struggling with the weird backwashy conditions, he was just going nuts. generating SO much speed & then boosting these ridonkulous airs...wow.
Posted by: paul b at June 24, 2005 10:08 AM"Panics" closer to DH or closer to Magic Island? Not sure I have surfed there.
On the surfboard tip, I have been pondering surfboard shapes since my trip to point-break land a few weeks ago. More foam, less foam, bring the width in, keep my boards wide, go thinner, go thicker, go longer, etc. Before my trip to Mainland, I was seriously thinking about adding a few inches in overall length to my everyday shortboard (OB, head high to overhead+). I sometimes feel that I am riding too short of a board and that more foam would do me well. My current shortboard is 6'6'' x 2 5/8 x 19 5/8, I am about 6'1'', 200 lbs. I was always under the impression that surfing reefs, I would need to adjust and ride boards that were both narrower and thinner as there is more water working up the face at a faster clip. Likewise, points offering a different persective. Since OB is the main place I surf, adapting by boards for OB seems to be the main objective right now.
Anyway, riding consistant point break waves in Mainland really fueled these thoughts. Every session I was wondering what type of board I could ride in the same conditions and how I could ride the same break differently with that board.
I don't think I have really dialed in a really good board for OB yet. I think that is my issue. Given that the paddle is many times miserable and you need some more foam to get more paddle speed, is that a good trade off once you are actually out and trying to ride some waves? Or, are you better off going shorter and getting more performance on the waves? What tail shape would serve me the best? Am I more a "front" foot surfer or a "back" foot surfer?
Too many questions.
I have never been afraid to buy a surfboad. Pretty well know fact about my quiver, it ain't shy!
Bring some noise..........
Elias, get your tools out, we gotta start answering some fo these quesitons.
Posted by: Kaiser at June 24, 2005 10:48 AMFun lil' waves this a.m. Thank you OB.
Funboard was enough foam to catch wave after wave after wave.
Anyone have an opinion as to what it takes in life to become reincarnated as a dolphin? Do we have any choice in the matter?
Posted by: amigoism at June 24, 2005 10:51 AMeffing fred p! that guy beats everybody! nice scoring last night. i will begin praying for the afternoon session.
Posted by: bagel at June 24, 2005 10:52 AMthat is a sick snap for sure, and is that curren just checking that shit out?
Posted by: bagel at June 24, 2005 10:53 AM6'6" slingshot was plenty of foam for fun this morning. I kept backing out of miniscule waves, which was kind of embarrassing but I'll feel stupider if I break my neck on a nicely formed 3 ft wave dumping in 1 ft of water. Other silly moments due to switching from 2 weeks of 8' Brick to a leetle board. Like switching from a truck to a motorcycle [ I drive neither ] Weeeee!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 24, 2005 11:12 AMglad i'm not the only one w/ the foot off the back of the fish issue! tried bird's 5'10 last weekend and split the uprights (foot between the wings on the swallowtail) 100% of the time. laces out....
Posted by: j at June 24, 2005 11:20 AMexactly what i was doing every time J! Don't think i'll be riding many boards under 6'2" in the foreseeable future.
Posted by: e at June 24, 2005 11:23 AMhoped rockaway with negative tide and south wind would be fun, maybe catching more of the steep nw swell than ob. but it was decidedly eh; pretty few waves with fun shape. yucky water, too.
kook perspective on ob boards: i end up using a fishy board or semi-gun much more than a regular shortboard because even on most days when the regular shortboard would give a better ride, it isn't worth the trade-off in wave-count.
Posted by: kloo at June 24, 2005 11:39 AMpoint panics
Posted by: paul b at June 24, 2005 11:40 AMnear magic island
mostly bodysurfing
breakwater affords good photog access hence fred p
Kaiser,
i'd blow up thickness to 2 3/4 or 2 7/8, but keep nose, middle and tail widths in standard shortboard proportion to length.
btw: what boards did you bring to mex?
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at June 24, 2005 11:53 AMwill you buy me a board kaiser?
Posted by: bagel at June 24, 2005 11:55 AMI lobe short fishy boards. Anything under 6" and i am 6"2 but skinny. I ride a 5'11 now, tri fin, a little wide and looovve it. So fast can handle head high+ if you bend back on the steeper drops. Love the maneuverability of something small under my feet, feels like a skateboard. Guess that is why i love my shorter longskateboard with just big longskate wheels.
The board i have, but haven't ridden yet, is a 5'6. now that is short but hopefully FUN!
Posted by: Hb at June 24, 2005 11:58 AMMy take on ob is you need 1 kind of board for the paddle out, then a different board to catch waves. Barring days like today when you can slosh through knee high jellies to the line up.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 24, 2005 12:00 PMHB JUST (indirectly) CALLED YOU FAT KAISER!!
Posted by: j at June 24, 2005 12:04 PMKaiser is phat!
Posted by: Hb at June 24, 2005 12:06 PMJ, go home! Ha!
And so what if I am fat.
3to5, I took my Hobie Egg and my 6'6'' shortboard. Rode the Egg at the longboard spot and cruised past most of the loggers. No problems getting waves. Rode my 6'6'' at the shortboarding locales.
Bagel, I'll buy you a board if you buy me 3 boards when you make $1 million on your video game. I call it an investment.
Posted by: Kaiser at June 24, 2005 12:10 PM
Posted by: curren fan at June 24, 2005 12:11 PMkaiser, nice!
Posted by: bagel at June 24, 2005 12:18 PMkaiser, i'm home, now what? you're not playing that weird anon game now are you?
Posted by: j at June 24, 2005 12:26 PMcool turn
Posted by: at June 24, 2005 12:30 PMGeez Curren can throw buckets of spray......
Posted by: Slack Jawed at June 24, 2005 12:32 PM
Posted by: Fan of Curran at June 24, 2005 12:37 PM
Posted by: Iommi fan! at June 24, 2005 12:50 PMDeal NJ is flat and onshore.
Posted by: tom at June 24, 2005 12:52 PMWTF, what are you doing in Deal? That's where I grew up.
Posted by: kdalle at June 24, 2005 12:58 PM
Posted by: SouthBay slashin' at June 24, 2005 01:04 PM
Posted by: newps scene at June 24, 2005 01:12 PM
Posted by: fabulass ad at June 24, 2005 01:19 PMhey, great pictures today.
Posted by: bagel at June 24, 2005 01:25 PMthat ad really makes me wanna go out and spend $15 on a pair of socks
Posted by: bbr at June 24, 2005 01:27 PMamerican apparel models.
Posted by: at June 24, 2005 01:35 PMTHE PERFECT DAY FOR HIM:
6:00 Alarm
6:15 Blow job
6:30 Massive satisfying shit while reading the sports section
7:00 Breakfast: steak and eggs, coffee and toast, all cooked by naked, buxom wench who bends over a lot showing her growler
7:30 Limo arrives
7:45 Several beers en-route to airport
9:15 Flight in personal Lear Jet
9:30 Limo to Mirage Resort Golf Club
9:45 Play front nine - 2 under
11:45 Lunch: steak and lobster, 3 beers and a bottle of Dom Perignon
12:15 Blow job
12:30 Play back nine - 4 under
2:15 Limo back to the airport (several bourbons)
2:30 Fly to Bahama! s
3:30 Late afternoon fishing excursion with all female crew, all nude who also bend over a lot displaying growlers
4:30 Land world record Marlin (1234lbs) - on light tackle
5:00 Fly home, massage and hand job by naked Elle McPherson
6:45 Shit, Shower and Shave
7:00 Watch news: Michael Jackson assassinated;
7:30 Dinner: lobster appetizers, Dom Perignon (1953), big juicy fillet steak
9:00 Napoleon Brandy and Habanos cigar in front of wall-size TV as you watch football game
9:30 Sex with three women
11:00 Massage and Jacuzzi with tasty pizza snacks and a cleansing beer
11:30 A night cap blow job
11:45 In bed alone
11:50 A 22 second fart which changes note 4 times and forces the dog to leave the room
11:51 Laugh yourself to sleep
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE PERFECT DAY FOR HER:
Posted by: wimo at June 24, 2005 01:43 PM8:15 Wake up to hugs and kisses
8:30 Weigh in 2 pounds lighter than yesterday
8:45 Breakfast in bed, freshly squeezed orange juice and croissants open presents - expensive jewelry chosen by thoughtful partner
9:15 Soothing hot bath with frangipani bath oil
10:00 Light work out at club with sexy funny personal trainer
10:30 Facial, manicure, shampoo, condition, blow dry
12:00 Lunch with best friend at fashionable outdoor cafe
12:45 Catch sight of partner's ex and notices she has gained 17 pounds
1:00 Shopping with friends, unlimited credit
3:00 Nap
4:00 Three dozen roses delivered by florist, card is from secret admirer
4:15 Light work out at club, followed by massage from strong but gentle hunk, who says he rarely gets to work on such a perfect body
5:30 Choose outfit from expensive designer wardrobe, parade before full length mirror
7:30 Candle lit dinner for two followed by dancing, with compliments received from other diners/dancers
10:00 Hot shower (alone)
10:50 Carried to bed . (freshly ironed, crisp, new, white linen)
11:00 Pillow talk, light touching and cuddling
11:15 Fall asleep in his big strong arms
Reunion is a sweet setup! Too bad they will be broadcasting while we are supposed to be sleeping.
Posted by: Kaiser at June 24, 2005 01:52 PMwow, guys are way hornier than girls eh?
Posted by: at June 24, 2005 02:16 PMDov Charney is a very interesting CEO.
Posted by: Jack at June 24, 2005 02:18 PMChina getting ready to buy Unocal. Look out below!!!!
I cant believe the Republicans will let this happen.
Posted by: UnoChina at June 24, 2005 02:23 PMI like that "Perfect Day" Scenario, except for a couple points:
1- replace golfing with surfing. golf is so gay.
2- you got to have the chick get laid. they love it, probably more than we do.
3- just bring Elle home with you from the learjet, she is good enough.
Love Ya, dont drop in on me this weekend!
Posted by: The Hammer at June 24, 2005 02:32 PMHammer.
Great stuff. Make sure you either have head phones in, or the volume way down if you're at work. Lots of potty mouth words
Posted by: Ian at June 24, 2005 02:35 PMThat last cloudbreak photo is going XXL
Posted by: at June 24, 2005 02:35 PMdamn...that reunion video technology is sick. how long before we get live streaming quality like that?!
Posted by: rza at June 24, 2005 02:44 PMyeah, i don't think wimo has had a lot of experience with real women, at least not the right kind. and his ideal man is a bit of a boozer, no? i don't know about golf, but i am definitely not going surfing after 6 beers and a bottle of champagne.
Posted by: steamwand at June 24, 2005 03:19 PMtwo sopes.....zzzzzzzzz.......
Posted by: j at June 24, 2005 03:23 PM
Posted by: bbr at June 24, 2005 03:29 PME-
Posted by: antman at June 24, 2005 03:52 PMglad you got a few this am...I just ordered a Mandala fish and I'm very excited but also worried that it will be too chippy for me...I'm sorry I couldn't get ahold of you before your Baja trip but next time you gotta meet Da man!
peace
god damn i want this work day to be over.
Posted by: bbr at June 24, 2005 03:58 PMi love my manny fish and i think you totally get used to the length, although if i surf my 7'6" for a few days, i start stepping of the back again on the fish. i find it hard to transition back and forth between those two boards. i'm starting to think my coffey 7'6" is my fav board.
Posted by: steamwand at June 24, 2005 04:05 PMi'm gonna get a coffey shortboard for my next one, whenever that is.
kaiser?
i have no scheme to make millions though. but maybe we could make our fight at the bike rack a pay per view thing.
not looking to promising for the arvo on the cams. wish me luck on yanking out my car battery. hope i don't electrocute myself.
Steamwand you getting ready for Kona? I got back on Wednesday. There were waves around. Nothing big but people in the water every day. The water is unreal right now. 75-82 depending on spot.
Posted by: tucker at June 24, 2005 04:13 PMCoffey is a good shaper. I have not had too many complaints for my boards he has shaped. I don't think my next shortboard will come from him though. He shaped me a few modern fish-like boards but with a tri-fin setup. I really dig those.
Posted by: Kaiser at June 24, 2005 04:29 PMtuck-yeah, i'm stoked. hope there's some swell. leaving next sunday. one week of "work" in between two vacations to warm, sunny beach destinations, not bad. still haven't decided whether or not to bring a board and don't know which one to bring if i do. ahhh, decisions.
Posted by: steamwand at June 24, 2005 04:31 PMyab dabba doo!!!
Posted by: fred flintstone at June 24, 2005 05:17 PMThe right board for OB varies: wave to wave, inside outside, north mid sloat, south north junk ws, high low tide, no current mega, season. Whatever gets you into the lineup and lets you catch a quota. This morning was better than it needed to be - thanks big guy.
Posted by: banjo at June 24, 2005 10:13 PM