The Preternatural
Born in the Basque country of a Cuban jazz guitarist father and a Norwegian gymnast mother, Max had a preternatural way about him from the beginning. At 5 years of age he was playing Bach Fugues on the piano by memory. At age 7 he was creating his own complex musical compositions. At 9, Max's ocean-loving father started the boy surfing. During his first session he stood up on his dad's longboard and promptly walked out to the nose and stuck 5 toes over. By the time he reached 12, Max was a bona fide prodigy in both music and surfing. Each summer he'd go on tour with his father's jazz quintet and play the piano. He also began playing the trumpet. Driving from gig to gig in the van they'd listen to all the masters. Mingus, Monk, Miles, Bird, Joe Pass, Burrell, Ella, Coltrane, Wes Montgomery, Ornette Coleman, Don Cherry, Mahavishnu, etc. Max would amaze the band by creating these beautiful interpretations of what they were listening to on his trumpet, right in the van. Souring, bizarre, elegant phrasings. Leaps into the experimental. When they'd ask Max where he came up with that music, he'd just shrug and explain that he was just playing what he heard in his head. By the end of the first summer tour, at the age of 12, Max was the buzz of the European jazz circuit.
Back in school near Mundaka, Max would spend a lot of time at the local beachbreak with his friends. After only a few seasons on a shortboard he was carving gigantic turns and pulling into deep barrels. Max felt a deep affinity for the waves and always seemed to be at the right place at the right time. One fall day it was macking and he and his father drove over to Mundaka to watch the pro contest. Max brought his surf stuff just in case. He had won a few local contests already but had never watched the pros. The point was pumping. Thick, gnarly barrels churned and fired down the line. Surfers were getting hurt left and right. The surf kept building and building until eventually they called off the contest toward the end of the day. Max loved crazy waves. The burlier the wave, the calmer he became. His abilities seemed to compound as conditions turned ballistic. His dad nudged that maybe he should paddle out. A few minutes later Max dropped into a profound wave. Amidst a thick pack of pros he somehow slipped into a groping, pounding double-up leviathan. He faded way way back into the barrel while cameras of the surf-world media snapped like mad. Deeper and deeper he faded. Then to the surprise of all Max saw what others didn't see, a weird gurgle-ramp in the wave. He instinctively steered up through this ramp and completed a tight, fluid barrel-roll way back in this gruesome Mundaka pit. He landed it smoothly, then accelerated and got spit out in a blaze of glory.
Four years later Max began woodshedding with his trumpet like a man possessed. Over the last few years he had developed a unique sound. Using a plethora of effects and sounds processing equipment, Max's trumpet tone now evoked majestic, ethereal, transcendent beauty. He could also, however, freak the living daylights out of his audience with horrid, tweaked, morbid voices of death. Not only was the jazz world taking notice, but the entire musical universe embraced him as a legend in the making.
To be continued.
I usually hike in through Jalama or Gaviota since I can't afford property in the Ranch.
But if you've a memeber of the Sierra Club or an employee you should be able to have full access.....E!
Posted by: HR at July 21, 2005 10:19 AMhttp://www.surfermag.com/features/onlineexclusives/greatdivide/
Posted by: HR at July 21, 2005 10:20 AMi bet max pulled major kaiser-esque tail
Posted by: j at July 21, 2005 10:38 AMnice, max. wow, the ranch.
Posted by: bagel at July 21, 2005 10:51 AMheading here tomorrow hope its looks like this when i get there..but it will probably look like this at ob this weekend.
Posted by: bagel at July 21, 2005 10:57 AMThanks, bagel!
Posted by: blakestah at July 21, 2005 11:04 AMim here to help
Posted by: bagel at July 21, 2005 11:13 AMIt's a sign of pretty bad surf that I checked it and didn't go in. At Sloat it wasn't just the Lindy crowd, but the south-end inside-whitewater Lindy crowd. Max would've ditched it in favor of horn practice.
Posted by: kloo at July 21, 2005 11:14 AMgoing to jalama next weekend, maybe take a hike at low tide
Posted by: mig at July 21, 2005 11:27 AMYo heads! Checking in from El Salvador for the last time probably. This place has been amazing. The local friends (and non) I've made here hold a big part in my heart already. They show so much generosity and are very eager to share their breaks with surfers who show respect. the food has been great and I'm not spending more than 15-20 a day. 10 on lodging (a small tin-roofed shack that leaks when it rains every night) but it has character. And 5-10 on food and drinks. Paul (Mexi) is also here with his wife, and said to say hello to all you folks! Unfortunately the surf hasnīt been all time like when I first arrived, but everyday there has been something to ride, and last night the thunder and lightning storm lit up up the sky about 2 miles offshore while me and 3 others were in the water, creating grey skies with turquoise water. My favorite picturesque conditions. I'm sad to be leaving on Sunday, but excited to travel in a new country. All the Central American rippers are here for an international surfing contest at Punta Roca today, tomorrow, and Saturday. Oh yeah, Punta Roca will kick your ass if you're not careful.
Posted by: Ian at July 21, 2005 11:30 AMRight on Ian! Keep the posts coming.
Posted by: steve-o at July 21, 2005 11:31 AMyeah Ian!! enjoy man.
punta roca rocks! literally.
Posted by: e at July 21, 2005 11:32 AMpictures ian, pictures!!
Posted by: j at July 21, 2005 11:33 AMMaking fun of my people, Kloo?
Actually today would be perfect charging conditions on rubber rafts. With the drink holders. No haven't done that yet.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 21, 2005 11:34 AMoh yeah, ian, did pedro ever contact you? matias was unsure.
Posted by: j at July 21, 2005 11:34 AMGreat start to your trip! Must be cool meeting Mexi down there too. I'm still trying to get kicked outta the house and follow you around but my wife is too damned tolerant ;).
Posted by: Dennis at July 21, 2005 11:39 AMdennis, you could always get a girlfriend on the side. that's a sure fire way of getting the boot.......unless your in a polyamourous situation. which is another good reason to trot the globe with ian ;)
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 21, 2005 11:50 AMPunta Roca
Posted by: Not Ian at July 21, 2005 11:50 AMFunny 3to5 - I should probably stick to just being annoying. Easier to forgive, ya know?
Posted by: Dennis at July 21, 2005 12:04 PMNice Ian and Mexi- representing down in El Sal!
The ranch is a tough call- I think they stopped access because surfers were pushing cows off cliffs etc. not cool!
As much as I would like access to that spot or certain surf located US military bases - I guess I would almost preffer the restriction so they never become another Rincon or Malibu. Having done the ranch hike in- it was definately super rewarding after a long adventure to get some good waves!
Posted by: artifact at July 21, 2005 12:31 PMscofield and miles
Posted by: e at July 21, 2005 01:33 PMIs Ben Marcus writing for Surfer Mag again?
Posted by: mwsf at July 21, 2005 01:36 PMOhh...as I missed the last non-surfing sufer's party, I'm throwing the raft in the car for this Saturday morning. As I also got those new Viper fins, I'll have more beach toys than a kid whose divorced parents compete for his love! I may have to pick up a 6er at Safeway and throw my own party.
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at July 21, 2005 01:46 PMWay off topic, but have any of you done an Alcatraz swim? I know it's late season to start now, but I'm toying w/ the idea in general. Not to do as a stressy race - just, uh, because it's there. Obviously I can splash around but have near zero knowledge of the crawl/freestyle. Formal swim style, no clue. Been sniffing around the internet and found Aquatic Park, but surely somebody here has words straight from the horse's mouth? Thanks!
Oh yeah, work...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 21, 2005 01:50 PMOkay, change that from 6er to bottle of Old English.
Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at July 21, 2005 01:50 PMss - look into the south end rowing club at aquatic park. they have tons of swimmers and have a big group that does the alcatraz swim and a bunch of other events. no wetties though. check out their website.
Posted by: SERC at July 21, 2005 01:53 PMSS. Ask Judith. She's done several open-water races. Nobody's gonna give you better info in that category. You could probably do good just swimming at OB.
Posted by: Dennis at July 21, 2005 02:00 PMExcept maybe SERC...
Posted by: Dennis at July 21, 2005 02:01 PMAndrew, why not skip straight to a bottle of Night Train a la Jake Blues?
Posted by: blakestah at July 21, 2005 02:03 PMrandom question-a while ago someone put up a website that did an amazing people search. i found addresses for myself of places i forgot i'd even lived. wondering if someone knows the site. i think it had a z in the name.
Posted by: steamwand at July 21, 2005 02:06 PMzabasearch.com
Posted by: j at July 21, 2005 02:09 PMstopped to get a cold one after work last night at a never before visited liq store ...mad dog 20/20 on the shelf in the cooler...was tempted but didn't
Posted by: otf at July 21, 2005 02:13 PMthanks j. next wave's yours.
Posted by: steamwand at July 21, 2005 02:16 PMBrucey with the biggest boost of the day
Posted by: otf at July 21, 2005 02:24 PMSS
I have done 3 Alcatraz swims now and am not a real swimmer sort either. Did them just for the same reason, b/c I live in SF. There are a few swims over the summer. If you have any questions feel free. et at schweichler dot com
I think most people who surf OB will have no problem with the swim.
Posted by: tucker at July 21, 2005 02:35 PMor tucker...
Posted by: Dennis at July 21, 2005 02:53 PMThanks already, folks. fyi wetsuit mandatory! Constant movement w/ regular bathing suit in 63F still turns me into freaking popsicle debris.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 21, 2005 03:00 PMss, drafting works quite effectively in open water swimming.
Posted by: dan at July 21, 2005 03:04 PMs.s. - I did the Alcatraz swim last weekend and have done a couple of the Angel Islad/Tiburon swims. Most people wear wetsuits and there's no shame in doing so, although there are some really serious swimmers and hardcore old carps who don't wear suits. It's a lot of fun and cool to say that you've done the swim. I'd highly recommend doing some lap swimming to train though. I find that freestyle swimming helps my surf paddling a lot more than surf paddling helps my freestyle swimming. Drop me a line if you have any questions: matt at suckerfish dot net.
Cheers!
-- Matt
Posted by: mwsf at July 21, 2005 03:15 PM"ha ha ha, nice wave bro", "ha ha ha *splash* nice air bro", ha ha ha, weee!
Posted by: jerks at July 21, 2005 03:20 PMmwsf,
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 21, 2005 03:26 PMmy high school swim coach used to say the same thing. a surfer himself he caught me surfing several times when i should have been at practice earlier in the arvo...he'd never say a thing in the water to me when he caught me. but once the swell dropped and i was back at practice he'd always have a "special" workout for me.
Not sure if anyone's posted this but pretty sweet prgm for satellite imagery!
http://earth.google.com/
Posted by: artifact at July 21, 2005 04:10 PM
Posted by: Wendy the Retard at July 21, 2005 04:17 PMThat Alcataz swim seems pretty fun, but it's freeking $110 to register!
Posted by: acctnut at July 21, 2005 04:51 PMok ok unrelated topic. "so you think you can dance" best show ever? i think so.
3-5 i bet you had the same p.e. teacher as my friend did he try to teach you how to walk on your hands?
Posted by: bagel at July 21, 2005 05:31 PMcool mike stern interview - for the guitar heads.
Posted by: e at July 21, 2005 05:37 PMI've been rehabing for the last couple months, spending lots of time in the pool. Competition is a great carrot. Here are some other swims coming up:
Santa Cruz Roughwater
Santa Cruz Cruise
Catfish Swims
Pier to Pier?
Swimming is part of the whole waterman experience. Make you one betta surfer cuz.
Posted by: acctnut at July 21, 2005 06:56 PMI want to be Max.
Posted by: Hb at July 21, 2005 07:39 PMJudith is actually an alien from another planet who was transported to San Francisco in the form of a beautiful and fearless woman.
Seriously, I've seen her charge scary OB days with two or three guys on boards who never made it out back. Her humility and grace makes it all the more amazing. Old photo from Mav's- Judith is in the lower right-hand corner.
Posted by: Bruce at July 21, 2005 08:10 PMyeah go judith, you the bitch
Posted by: Hb at July 21, 2005 09:18 PMUm, good try using my name. I would never say anything against Judith. She seems more in tune to life than any of us.
Above post wasn't the Hb. The Hb is gettin' irie and watching PT on the Stylemasters extras.
Posted by: Hb at July 21, 2005 09:36 PMcan i get on Hbflix and have you mail that flick to me when you're done hb? review, any good?
Posted by: j at July 21, 2005 10:16 PMwill you be my friend?
Posted by: Muppet at July 21, 2005 10:18 PMNO!
Posted by: kermit at July 22, 2005 07:39 AM