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peaks and bowls

A peak looms.
Paddle out to meet it.
It starts to bowl on the shallow bar.
Logger taking off on the right, the left is open.
Fade deeper.
Nestle under the ledge.
Feel the wave propel.
See the wave begin to suck.
Look down the line.
Tantalizing conical rapture.
Prepare for takeoff.
Slip to a crouch.
Subtle pig-dog.
Steer through the steepening drop.
See the lip briefly fly overhead.
Let go of the rail.
Low, compact, pouncy, speeding.
Thick wall stretched out ahead.
It might close-out soon.
A quick check-turn off the bottom.
Ride up to the lip as the wave begins to buckle.
Riding high along the lip, flirting and floating.
Turn off the lip at the last possible second.
Air-drop back down.
Lean back and absorb with the knees through the landing.
Wave explodes behind.
Niiiice.
Back out for more on a mellow Sunday afternoon.

kloo found these great shots of old-timey SF from http://sflib1.sfpl.org:82/
1909

1865

1865


South American bombs
niceness

niceness

niceness

looks like that guys about to get foam face.

Posted by: bagel at August 1, 2005 10:20 AM

Somewhere the california dream still lives. We lived it for three days.

I am an even bigger proponent now of single fins and single speeds.

now i'm back just thinking about how i can do it again.

Posted by: elias at August 1, 2005 10:27 AM

I love surfing and I also love a girl and I am totally whipped. And I really care about her!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! gwah

Posted by: Brian at August 1, 2005 10:33 AM

Costa Rica





Posted by: Brian at August 1, 2005 10:41 AM

aaa, young love


mike mignola

Posted by: at August 1, 2005 10:49 AM

costa rica looks crowded.

Posted by: e at August 1, 2005 10:49 AM

that was me

sound like elias scored, sweet..

Posted by: bagel at August 1, 2005 10:50 AM

bagel! m. mignola rules! have you read the amazing screw on head? classic. on another note.. waves were glassy for three days. best on friday, tapering off each following day. but still FUN!

Posted by: elias at August 1, 2005 11:01 AM

mosquito repellent review:

picaridin - this stuff sucks. recommended by the CDC as a 'pleasant' alternative to DEET, with the same effectiveness. the WHO recommends as the repellent of choice for malaria prevention. the mosquitoes at yosemite recommend people wearing picaridin as a lovely breakfast, lunch or dinner. did i mention this stuff sucks? the j-buffet was in full effect while wearing this stuff, the buffet line promptly parted when i sprayed on good ol' DEET. the only benefit of picaridin is that you can spray it on non-natural fiber clothing without the fear of it 'melting' as would happen with DEET. of course, as this stuff didn't repel mosquitoes. next time i will try the lemon eucalyptus stuff and report back for those who occasionally venture away from the beach.

other than the mosquitoes, which were thick but not enough to detract from the beauty of the hike, and the fact some gear apparently only purchased a one way ticket (lost my freakin' fly pole. monetary loss is small, but the thing had sentimental value as it's the one my deceased grandpa taught me to flyfish with when i was 10 or so), GREAT hike. didn't see another soul after lake elizabeth.

Posted by: j at August 1, 2005 11:04 AM

nice on the scorage Elias!! jealous. I love that place.

Charlie Parker: (South Of The Border: The Verve Latin-Jazz Sessions)
Afro-Cuban Jazz Suite: Introduction-Cancion / Mambo / Transition / Introduction To 6/8 / 6/8 / Transition And Jazz / Rhumba Abierta (Part 1) / Coda

It's the last track on the album. so good!

Posted by: e at August 1, 2005 11:05 AM

kelly's cove had the largest crowd i've ever seen on saturday. it's rare that i surf there, but the waves were lining up nicely and it was relatively glassy. the strange part was that i actually had to be agressive to get some rides. fighting for small waves at ob...wtf!?!

please fall...come quickly.

Posted by: rza at August 1, 2005 11:14 AM

did kaiser and INOKEA/Mollusk/BVB have a surf off this weekend? who won?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 1, 2005 11:19 AM

kaiser won by default - IKEA/bvb/clamshell never showed.

Posted by: j at August 1, 2005 11:32 AM

california dreaming...

elias's weekend was dope. i was a witness.
it IS out there—glass and happiness.
amazing range of blues and greens in the water.

ducked under a wave as elias slid past and
saw him through the wave from underneath.
so clear and glassy. oh man.

nice!

cheers.

Posted by: korewin at August 1, 2005 11:40 AM

interesting article on hendrix...

http://www.usatoday.com/life/people/2005-08-01-hendrix-gay_x.htm?POE=click-refer

congrats on scoring elias and korewin. elias, been shaping anymore boards lately? post some pics, want to see the progress!

Posted by: j at August 1, 2005 11:55 AM

garison keeler

screw on head was great..been reading all the hellboys for the last couple of weeks..awesome.

ya, i surfed kelly's saturday with about 4 guys on it, when i exited the water i saw like 30+ fun though..

Posted by: bagel at August 1, 2005 11:55 AM

Found glassiness a little south yesterday morning, okay rides, but size was lacking. Amusing novice took forever paddling his longboard out with the nose a foot underwater and the tail a couple feet in the air, after which he faced considerable difficulty endeavoring to sit on the board. I wondered if it was a stunt.

Posted by: at August 1, 2005 12:02 PM

No surf for me this weekend. Garage saled Sat and Sun. SS sailed by and said hey. That was cool SS.

On Sunday, I sold a computer to a guy and gave him the password for it. He forgot the password and knocked on my door at midnight - Midnight - to get it! The house was completely dark. I didn't answer so he left a note. I would only answer the door at midnight if there was a fire truck outside my house with the lights flashing and siren blasting. I couldn't go back to sleep and now I'm all wired feeling.

Glad to hear somebody got waves. Looked like a little extra pulse this am.

Posted by: Dennis at August 1, 2005 12:08 PM

It's been glassy? I've been lazy have not even thought about surfing the last few days. Shows where my head's at -up my ass! Count your blessings - one less old kook out to watch out for.
I'm not so sure about this INOKEA guy being BVB in disguise. BVB was always much more original, I would never think him capable of blatant plagiarism. But others seem to know BVB better than I, so ...

Posted by: Jimmie at August 1, 2005 12:08 PM

Mr. Squishy

Posted by: MxRxHx at August 1, 2005 12:58 PM

rza i was out there saturday too, it was a lot of fun on the sets... ragnar and the shaved head kid were owning it

Posted by: bbr at August 1, 2005 01:13 PM

Anyone from niceness land ever try Salvia Divinorum? It's supposed to be some kind of natural mind altering substance. The Fed's will probably make it illegal soon. http://www.sagewisdom.org/userguide.html

Posted by: bddbb at August 1, 2005 01:14 PM

Posted by: jamaican supermodels at August 1, 2005 01:15 PM

Happy 001000.html#001000,e!

Borrowed a single fin fat egg and had a blast on Sunday. Goofy board, goofy conditions, fun.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at August 1, 2005 01:26 PM

Went out at 7:30 AM after closing out the bar the night before. Mind you, I always observe the wisdom passed on by Dale "Daily Wave" Webster of "shit before you surf so you don't surf like shit" but it wasn't enough. After about an hour, while I was on the beach inflating the raft, I felt tthe guiness-tequila-nacho cheese mixture reach a dangerous pressure within my colon. I'd like to take this opportunity to apologize to anyone that used the bathroom in the Beach Chalet on Saturday, and likely Sunday as well.

Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at August 1, 2005 01:44 PM

Salvia = headache. Weird. short-lived.
-MM

Posted by: MONKEY MILK at August 1, 2005 01:47 PM

**ck sh*t stories.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 1, 2005 02:00 PM

kelly's cove shirts, etc.:

http://www.cafepress.com/oceanrider

j, sorry to hear about the yosemite mosquito blood-gorge-fest.

Posted by: bird at August 1, 2005 02:04 PM

Mr. Fluffy

Posted by: MxRxHx at August 1, 2005 02:12 PM

bbr, i don't know ragnar but there was a shaved head kid - no booties, no leash and killing it.

i liked the longboarder skinnin' it. hairy.

Posted by: rza at August 1, 2005 02:28 PM

Ragnar Johnson.... The best surfer on the HMB coast in the 80's... hell probably still the best.... that ragnar?

Posted by: at August 1, 2005 02:43 PM

Posted by: at August 1, 2005 02:50 PM

Ragnar

Posted by: at August 1, 2005 02:52 PM

hmmmm....my food supply is down this year....what will I eat??

Posted by: the landlord at August 1, 2005 03:11 PM

Posted by: surfseeker7 at August 1, 2005 03:21 PM

Nice, man. REAL nice. I wanna pork two girls like that with my MSG ladden cock. White bitches is about to get preggers up in here.

Posted by: MSG at August 1, 2005 03:24 PM

drums and tuba rock fairly hard.

Posted by: e at August 1, 2005 03:24 PM

Posted by: hmmm at August 1, 2005 04:18 PM

i like how the girl on the left is wearing a cross. that much hypocrisy can only mean she's a republican.

Posted by: rza at August 1, 2005 04:30 PM

Posted by: cute at August 1, 2005 04:34 PM

Posted by: cute at August 1, 2005 04:40 PM

YAHOOOOO

Posted by: at August 1, 2005 04:45 PM

new york

Posted by: city! at August 1, 2005 05:11 PM

Hot surf chicks!
http://www.xposed.com/xposed_tv/default.aspx?channel=Sports&clipID=25015&osadcampaign=19

Posted by: surf oakland at August 1, 2005 05:19 PM

whos the girl with the hat in the video? she rips

Posted by: bagel at August 1, 2005 05:33 PM

wow, those people look hip. i bet they don't sit at home and watch tv at night like i do.

Posted by: j at August 1, 2005 05:45 PM

added a few surf wallpapers to my site...check em out yo..


http://seth.sysum-online.com/wallpaper/wallpapers.html

Posted by: seth s. at August 1, 2005 06:11 PM

Hey what's up? I'm a longtime lurker but this is my 1st post...I'm going to Maui in 2 weeks and I'm looking for advice on what side of the island is good and what beaches have nice gentle surf this time of year. Only been surfing a couple years so I'm looking for easy beginner/intermediate kind of breaks. Went to kauai a couple months ago for a surf trip and Hanalei was the only place breaking...Thanks in advance!

Posted by: imnolezbo at August 1, 2005 07:55 PM

Need to get some work done. God will reward me with some good surf in the long run And oh yeah im getting married too now i can take that surf tip i always wanted lots of good waves and a few of us out there.God bless us all peace out

Posted by: waterlogged at August 1, 2005 09:16 PM

hey bddbb a friend and I had read a load about Salvia so decided to give it a go. We bought the strongest stuff we could from the most legit website with the best writeups - of course there were so many disclaimers about how it you smoked too much it would melt your brain etc... so we started off nice and slow.

Long story short we ended up smoking the whole lot one night - nothing. Except a slight headache. Moral of the story? Dunno... don't buy drugs off the web perhaps? Don't waste your money unless you are in some south american jungle and you can buy it off the locals...

Catching some waves here and there up in WA now after I left SF...not the same tho - but I'll take what I can!

Posted by: ankors at August 1, 2005 10:30 PM

Hey imnolezbo,

Go to wannasurf.com and find Maui on there. They should have a list of surf spots. Although, if you're going in August, good luck. August is supposedly the worst month for surf anywhere.

Posted by: MSG at August 1, 2005 11:35 PM
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