E's Surf Report

I picked the wrong spot to paddle out this am. Row upon row of whitewater in the hood. Twenty five minutes and 100 duckdives plus and got skunked. So I walked down the beach a bit farther only to see a makable channel with a 10 minute paddle out maybe, but by then I was outta time and had to get ready for work.

I wasn't tired from paddling surprisingly, but my wetsuit completely filled with water--arms, legs, and body. Glad it's time for the wetsuit sale!

Does the weather radio still work? I got to dust mine off.

whats happening to that poor soul 6 shots from the top?

Time to dust off the weather radio.

boo ya

server clock is off

Nice mini-Chopes

Today will be one of those days when everyone will call in sick and go to the beach just because the weather is just silly perfect.

Im sure the waves will clean up latter for the masses.

October is getting so close i can smell it.

what happened to the sf/monterey/pt conception buoys on the noaa buoy listings?

is it reeeealy gonna clean up at low tide?

High tide was still a little messy, but still light winds, and fewer close-outs, sounds like. I probably paddled out at Dennis's spot; it's like an anti-rip there, and getting out took much longer than it should have, and than it did a little north of there getting back out (but everywhere there were some waves big enough to thwart my sucky duckdives). Some good size, some neat drops, a pocket or two, never found a really perfect wall, but one wave jacked up for me for a fun re-entry sort of thing.

I've been unable to reach the noaa buoy site. Is it down, or are they punishing me for checking it too many dozens of times a day?

I believe national data buoy center is located in Mississippi...I think they are along that stretch of I-10 before you cross the boarder into LA...that area just got totally wrecked.

Check?

Dug up some pics the other day

Mmmm turkey.....
West of California 2003

O.k. Lots of wetsuit talk lately - any tips on getting the perfect fit? This must seem like a kooky question - but mine felt fine in the shop but when I got in the water it felt kinda tight and restricting...? The shop empl. said better to go a bit small than large...?

i like when the bouys go down. Benefits those that make the effort to go check it. Makes it more difficult to do internet swell prediction.

looting has started in New Orleans. Check out this quote from one of the theives:

"To be honest with you, people who are oppressed all their lives, man, it's an opportunity to get back at society," he said.

Now how many of you SF libs are saying, "Well, he has a damn good point." ???

pretty sick shit. smoke one

test

Wet suits are always a pain for me as well. I've had about 5 different suits and the only one that fit me perfect was an Oneil. Since then I've worn all RipCurls but they never seem to fit just right. I've always been told to get one a little snug in the store because they stretch once they get wet. Needless to say I think I'm going to get an Oneil for this winter...

asdf

.

Dubby - My wetsuit fit fine for 9 or 10 months. Just over the last couple months it has sagged. I've also lost 8 lbs since last year so between those two factors, during multiple duck-diving, my suit fills with water - lots of water. They do stretch a little and the neoprene compresses too. If yours is just a little tight, it'll probably break-in to fit you.

Whoa are we reverting back to real time?

I've found one of the most important factors to be the neck fit - if it's not tight enough the entire suit balloons and stretches out even faster. Brrrr. That's a pretty obvious suggestion though. Maybe I'm just complaining because the only kind of suit I've found to fit my scrawny neck is the O'Neil, which costs too much farking money. It's a warm suit though and worth using as long as humanly possible. My last O'Neil was patched so much my friends laughingly called it " The Frankenstein".

Geez I have always gotten my wetsuits larger than smaller. With the old wetsuits it would flush a little more water but the legs wouldn't hold the water. I get them large because I don't like the neck or shoulders tight. Shoulders for obvious reasons and it has always made me paranoid having something constricting around my neck. I have this nightmare of passing out on big days because my suit has constricted blood flow to my brain.

The new suits change the shoulder issue because they are stretchy. I still don't like anything constricting my neck. I always stretch out the neck on my new suits as soon as I get them and whenever I'm in the water.

My suits always seem to shrink over time, so I don't understand how everyone above says they get loose?????? I even rinse mine in fresh water somewhat consistently and keep them out of the sun.

Kaiser, I know it's early but I need a pick me up.

More hurricane surf shots, please.

yes please

always a good one

Belive it or not, the Lane on Sunday. A few more organic shots on the site.

The Sixth Element- review:

RCJ, pensive, talking about a wave he caught at Backdoor that subsequently broke his back. Johnny Boy called him off one and goes. RCJ goes right after and sees Johnny Boy's head in the barrel. He has to re-adjust and eats rad shit, getting held under for 2 waves. Slater who is on the beach sees this and runs down to the water to help RCJ out. He can't belive what he is seeing- it's real heavy and he thinks he is witnessing someone die.

Surfers scramble to help RCJ up the beach. RCJ the whole time is telling everyone to leave him the fuck alone he can do it then he says " me legs just gave out, they didn't work at all...I was all torso...I was....I was Tom Carroll!

Best movie I have seen! RCJ is a madman and a true athlete.

Eureka! I have the answer...
Rising petroleum prices got you down? Want to bike to the beach but have a place for your cell phone and wallet?
You have a car, but it still can't protect your valuables?
The solution: the waterproof fanny pack
It's not just for Fisherman's Wharf tourists anymore, every ripper between ****** and ***** will be wearing this winter. Buy one now and avoid the Christmas rush! Tough enough for DOH, stylish enough for a night out on the town, the waterproof fanny pack will keep all your ipod, pda, wallet and keys all safe and dry. No more trying to jam your purse into your keypocket, or strapping things to your neck, the waterproof fanny pack is safe, secure, and durable enough for a trip to the bottom. Thrown in a power bar or two for that mid-lineup snack.
Also, coming soon...the longboard travel mug holder. Dawn patrol is early, but no reason why you can't enjoy a rich creamy mochafrappachino while hanging 10.

Bruce - That's Sunday at the lane and only 5 surfers in the shot? I shoulda made the trip!

Thank you everybody for the info - How about thickness - I know from living up north a 4/3 is a must - but I've moved to SD and wonder if I could get away with a 3/2. The water is really warm and wonder how much it will flux between now and Winter...Or should I just use the 4/3?

Lindy was fun this morning an hour before high tide. Big fat set waves and nice long bouncy walls.

Nice shots bruce! looks great

GO GET A MID DAY NOONER!!! Just got into this girl named K***y and her Cove was as smooth at glass.

i posted this over a weekend the first time, so just in case anyone missed it.... A-
Frame #2

if you're anti-boogie just check out the "empty gallery" in the back of the mag it's got some sick shots

While trying to find an alternate source of buoy data, I found this cool interview with the weather channel guy.

ESM: Were those the best waves you ever saw?
SL: The best waves I surfed in California were at the Hollister Ranch, north of Santa Barbara--just fantastic. That was before it got too crowded. The last time I was at the Hollister Ranch, though, was 1979, but I didn't actually surf that time. You can't drive there because it's private property, but you can launch a boat. My friend had his girlfriend's dad's boat, and I told him there was going to be big, perfect surf. I had my lunch, my surfboard, everything. We got into the Ranch and sure enough here comes this huge northwest swell, about eight to ten-foot, and I told him, "Hey, turn the boat around and catch this one." You know, just joking. Then he turned it around and sorta caught the swell with the boat. We were about a half-mile out, and the thing peaked up over the reef. The last thing I remember was the wave cresting over the back of the boat. I dove over the engine into the water with no wetsuit on. It was winter and the water was 51 degrees. I came out and the boat was upside down in the wave and the guy is still trying to power out! It destroyed the boat, my board was broken, and we ended up on the beach, freezing. Luckily, my wetsuit floated up. The waves were perfect and peeling at this spot called Little Drake's, and we didn't even get to surf it. That was some of the best surf I ever missed. I'll never forget it. That was also the last surfboard I ever owned. Ever since then I've just borrowed boards and surfed on the fly.

weather channel guy interview

Johnny Boy is a dick. I know a guy that worked him in the water out on the east side of Oahu once. Fuckin' prick.

Nice bbr Gallery #3 is sick!

A mid day nooner? As opposed to an early evening nooner?

We did the tide line hike to L. Drake's once. Brought our boogie friend who decided he didn't need any suncreen for the hike. Then he leaves his sandals on the beach for one of the swim arounds. Sooo we get there- surf is alright- but didn't really justify the mission.

But our friend was so bummin'. Sunburnt to a crisp, no sandals. His feet were so torn up he had to walk the final 5 miles in his flippers.

thats the jam

damn....just back in the office after a jaunt to the beach...what a day out there!! waves, sun, bikinis, and smiles. today is hereby the first day of the season worth blowing off work!

bbr, great mag again. lots of beautiful shots in there!

grrrr

it's been so nice to surf some peaks the last couple mornings. Good to know you can still get a peak to yourself in LA. 1/2 mile away from the same waves only with shoulder to shoulder people. The fish is flyin'.

As E would say, SUUUUUUURRRRRFFF!

Johnny Boy taught my groomsmen how to surf in Waikiki the day before my wedding. He looks like one of the meanest mothers around. He was cool as shit and completely stoked to be sharing some waves with guys that respected him and what he stands for.

Waves....

Someone takes some pics of the chicks in bikinis at OB....I don't believe it.

holy crap i love that photo

Its growing on me.

I am beginning to appriciate them!

The Quiksilver Japan Pro is moving from Hebara Beach to Shidashita Point. Conditions are a clean 2-4 feet and the weather is sunny and humid.

While the main site of Hebara Beach has fun waves this morning, Shidashita is bigger and more consistent and therefore contest organizers, Rod Brooks and Mick Kato, have given the call and the move is on!

Stay tuned for live webcast!

thanks Kaiser

Great board ditch here! If I am riding that wave, I am going right over that board.

TAKE IT WITH YOU!

Fuck those two fat ugly chcks.

yes please

katrina pics

with some epic backwash

here's the backwash shot

re: para eso

hmmm, white power message in spanish? wtf?