E's Surf Report

OOOOOhhh. nice. Maybe I should reconsider my Irish heritage.

flap, i'm on the peninsula and climb planet granite in belmont.

mwsf, i ride cyclocross and raced a few years ago. whatcha looking for? let's chat offblog: three2fivesetsof7@yahoo.com

Was last night good? Sounded like it got really nice...

SHRED!

Naw, it was blown out and funky last night

Just testing. Nice bukake surf E. Keep it up you fuking dweebs. GO TO HELL.

wait.. SLAPS? why are you so pissed?

Yeah, last night was so good - all these furry pukes all happy and shit.
Screw niceness and everything you represent. EVERYTHING.
You name, you claim, you globber.
The rape of California - cool GO! Yeah Eness and Rapestah; we do not need you. GO AWAY!
Especially you Kaiser selling it all out to these tranny's - why don't you ZIP IT.
Trout - Bagel - Jay - who the *&%& cares what you think.
BOYCOTT BOMB THIS STUPID SITE

Lots of wasted gas today!

BVB for president.

s, you lie

last night was epic!

"namers get owned" -what a phag

quit spreading the hate, and shutup and go surf.

You care what we think or you wouldnt keep on reading, dorky.

"Local 415" cant surf, he is bitter because HE SUCKS.

..And a big fat cheers to Ian.

Ian Rules!

Local-bitchSLAP-415-INOKEA,

You bitch and moan, instead, put those words into action or shut the fuck up! You want to rip something, rip on people that ask how the conditions "were", otherwise fall in-line and embrace your fate with a grin.

You think it is bad now, just think how bad "we" SUV-driving-dotcommie-abercrombiewearing trucker-hat sporting, shopping at the GAP (but of course not Ralph Lauren), no art-show-curating newbies can be! We will stone you to death with our flaming funboard/hybrid combos while you ride your "purest" gun when the waves are slapping you in the back of the neck.

You want to be a fucking cavity, cool with me, I know you are soft and harmless with an occasion value-add. I find you humorous, but I know you better then most. Just wait for all the fuckers that have been holding back to let loose and give every detail of every "secret" you hold so dear. You want that? Then watch as Senor Sunnyvale, Happy Gilroy Gilmore and Paco "The Sunset Car Bandit" Nguyen come and piss on your "art". I would pay good money for that shit, trust me. And I would stand on the other side of the sidewalk with a grin on my face embracing your fate firsthand. Besides, I say one mans art is another man's dogshit! Think long and hard when you stand on your soapbox everyday.

I grin, others don't. Just some observations from the peanut gallery!

You with me or you want me to slow down to mach 1 for you so you can catch up?

Damn I had a good donut this morning! Must be some opium in that shit...........

Only people facinated with real trannies use that term. But look on the bright side, Local 415. The Exotic Erotic Ball is happening soon, so you can scratch that itch!

There was the era of black; grunge; the Mermen era, - then the evil Yuppie mentality was born, then came the trustafarians, add more trustafarians (from all over the country this time), add more grunge; add Metallica - then came the era of Pam, Kelly and Tommy Lee; then came the tough guy Capitolaesque era: shaved head, Ben Davis pants /shorts, goe tee, chain on the hip connected to the black wallet in the pocket - the wallet embossed with a ‘Dog Town' logo?! Cant' forget the cell phone, Internet , the longboard revolution and the impact of Blue Crush on the women.

Then came the start up dot commies. This sealed it. I personally and am surely not alone in thinking that this influx of people has wreaked more damaging havoc than any other single era or cultural shift for surfing in this city. Stop and think about what San Francisco means to all the people who don't surf. We live in an amazing place and we all need to more cognizant of where we are in time.

like everything is in this world, we all have choices. and if you don't like this blog, then remove the link from your bookmarks.

please stop raping me! thanks for sticking up for me local 415!

Kaiser has a good donut, and Local 415 has a shitcake. Score one for niceness this morning.

The earth is exploding with people.
Surfers aren't the only ones that are going to have to adapt. Quit whining and SURF!

IT'S RAINING MEN! HALLELUJAH!

"namers get owned" poster RULES.

As usual, I didn't think you have an insightful response! Go back and read it again to find clues so you can REALLY get the message. I thought it was pretty clear if not outwardly frank. I even translated it to INOKEANESE for you to make it simple.

Here, bury your face in this!

I am gonna go fight with someone that fights back now.

Chicks & Attitude Fall 2005

I agree the city is screwed, and that the dot-commies finished the job. I'd leave if it wasn't for the fact that I own a business here and was born here. It makes me sick to see what has happened to this town. But OB hasn't changed that much. I drive by almost everyday and it's not nearly ruined. I was out last night, and there were a lot of guys out, but few getting the sets. And that was at the crowded part. Regulars, correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought it was a smallish fall day. Another few feet of swell will rid 80% of those out yesterday including this old local. Chargers will always have this place to themselves in the winter.

BVB why are you so angry? Maybe it's time to hang up the ol' red gun?

Man...this sure does sound like the good life:

Since moving to San Diego to attend San Diego State, where he earned a degree in philosophy, Eslinger has lived on a boat all but two years. His first digs here: a 15-foot craft. "It was like living under a coffee table," Eslinger said.

He doesn't own a TV and commutes by bike to El Cajon where he works as a club swim coach. When he does drive, he relies on his third Volkswagen van.

A typical day for Eslinger: up at 4:45 a.m., paddle for 3 1/2 hours from Mission Bay, into the ocean, down the coastline to the lighthouse at the tip of Point Loma and back, surf for a couple hours, freshen up, then pedal to El Cajon.

Friends say he can't say no to helping others. He coached three San Diegans who crossed the English Channel, paddling beside them for hours in training. He rigged a surfboard so that a quadriplegic woman could experience the sensation of riding a wave.

paddle board guy

To inject my own bad vibe:
Talk about whining because of a new generation. Our grandparents fought the nazis...they seemd to be pretty tough, but this generation were wusses from the start. Where'd the problem start? I blame those of the 1970s with their bell bottoms and patridge family hair cuts for turning the very fabric of our society into a powder blue liesure suit. You raised your kids to be the Oedepian dot commers that killed their father's values and f'ed their mothers.

I'm a transplant, I surf OB as often as I can, I live at the beach, I was not born here and I was not raised here, I surf better than most of the guys I meet who grew up here, I have a better attitude than most of the 415-Locals too, I love OB, especially this time of year.

I use my cellphone at the beach to call other surfers to join me, I think the Kellys Cove Local Boys are idiots, I think there are a lot of bitter old men at OB and most of them cant surf very well, I dont shop at Wise, I do shop at Aqua.

Most people I meet that are from Marin are self centered, rich, and dont really surf that great. Very few guys I meet that are born-and-raised in SF can rip. Sykes rips, Ragnar rips, Chietti rips, 'The Slayer' rips, Keagy rips, KVZ rips, Branzella rips, Whittington rips, Kiwi Jason rips, and Corn rips.

Get over yourselves, especially if you longboard OB. Thanks for reading, and send me your cell #, i'll call you next time it is going off.

no way. i know kiwi jason.. he's chill.

Why do some people think you need to be a poor, undereducated blue collar grunt to be a surfer? It's the Sport of Kings and Queens. I surfed two hours last night at a popular OB break. Caught about twenty waves and only had to give up a couple waves to other surfers, cuz IT AINT THAT CROWDED AT OB. I'm in the water 3 to 5 days a week. I live in front of the beach. IT AINT THAT CROWDED AT OB.

Quit your goddamn crying. The only damage done to the surf culture is the development of the crybaby surfer. Boo-hoo, he's from out of town. Boo-hoo, he has a professional job. You pansies make me want to puke. Morons.

Blakestah: Do you see Hurricane Max doing anything for us?

oh BVB will be claiming first big swell. mark my words.

T 415, you know all those people, dang you are the man, my hero.

"get over yourself, especially if you longboard OB." Kook statement...

i love how cadaver is bobs little bitch too

I guess it's me too, but this blog is turning into a bitch blog... I'll check myself next time.

flades, there was a cane that tracked all the way to Hawaii a few years ago (maybe 6 or 8), and it sent a respectable short period SW swell to us. Definitely possible. Probable, by Thursday or so. It'll start out as S/SE energy, and then swing into our window. It should show up as S/SE energy at least a day before it affects local breaks.

On an even more positive note, long-range models show Hurricane Kenneth going NW past Hawaii, turning extra-tropical, developing 35+ ft seas, and entering the Gulf of Alaska as a well-organized early season low. Kenneth will generate little to no S surf for us as Max will shear its south winds...too close together.

good vibes.

thx Blakestah!

heh...those top two are almost as mesmirizing as the jubblies from yesterday ;-)

i agree

waaaah waaaah waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah waaaaaah, bitch moan moan bitch moan....THAN CASH OUT CUZ YOUR HOUSE HAS GONE UP $XXXXXX IN VALUE!! waaaah, bitch moan moan moan waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!!!!

lauging all the way to the bank, than move somewhere else, pay cash, and drive up their housing costs waaaaaah waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah

Nice E. How do you find all the good stuff?

Transplant 415 u R A KoOk

ALOHA fellas...
E, bagel, tucker, caveman, crew...
droppin in with a pic.
niceness is a usual read over here on the island,
keep up the good work E - and the motivation. so killer. Always stoked to check you out, see some new surf photos. Bagel, the art is dope. Have a good week.
easy, MO

dennis, GREAT comments, just saw them (damn work computer at my professional job is a little slow on the updates sometimes). why is it all boardsports want people to be a dirt to be core? odd.

Windansea last night

OB (SD) Pier last night

I heard that you were talking shit
And you didn't think that I would hear it
People hear you talking like that, getting everybody fired up
So I'm ready to attack, gonna lead the pack
Gonna get a touchdown, gonna take you out
That's right, put your pom-poms down, getting everybody fired up

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just goin' to happen like that
'Cause I ain't no holla back girl
I ain't no holla back girl
[2x]

ooh, this my shit , this my shit [x4]

So that's right dude, meet me at the bleachers
No principals, no student-teachers
Both of us wanna be the winner, but there can only be one
So I'm gonna fight, gonna give it my all
Gonna make you fall, gonna sock it to you
That's right, I'm the last one standing, another one bites the dust

A few times I've been around that track
So it's not just goin' to happen like that
'Cause I ain't no holla back girl
I ain't no holla back girl
[2x]

ooh this my shit, this my shit [x4]

let me hear you say this shit is bananas, b-a-n-a-n-a-s

this shit is bananas
b-a-n-a-n-a-s

again, shit is bananas
b-a-n-a-n-a-s

This shit is bananas
B-A-N-A-N-A-S

few times I've been around that track
so it's not just gonna happen like that
'Cause I ain't no holla back girl
I ain't no holla back girl
[2x]

ooh, this my shit , this my shit 4)x

"I ain't no holla back girl"

Does that actually mean something?

Ever get the feeling some people's anger for other surfers is just a metaphor for -- and a projection of -- other, more deeply-flawed aspects of their personal lives?

This society's going straight down the tubes, the power of men and the power of America are in decline...impotence is waiting for us all right at the edge of the void, and you're scared about it...some people are simply caught up in a myopic and mighty struggle to grab the brass ring, but alas, that prize has moved, it no longer takes it's original form, and you cannot find it. Some of you can;t even leave it at the high tide line, can no longer transform into pure thought and energy in the ocean because you are mentally hung up, and not in the moment -- pounding the keys and ponying up $180/hr for psychotherapy is perhaps your first step toward a self-awareness and maturity you sorely lack, as many a surfer-manchild does. Stir it up and confront your BS, that you are drained of brilliance and do not dazzle us, and that you are full of bullshit that indeed does baffle us. I'm the one who knows because I was once one myself. I fled to the "crazy" place and really have no intention of returning to the "American male mindset" anytime soon (taking gross generalizations on an anonyblog for what they are worth).

See you in the water, same specific gravity as amniotic fluid, where it all began.

those are sick shots of SD

wow Gwen stafani's lyrics are so profound and poignant. No worries i feel we're all entitled to more high pressure, it will come(please jesus?)

ya eightwest! you are pumped.

I'm a Bay Area transplant, and I surf O.B. quite often, and SC, and north of the Bridge. I don't get the "crowded" statements. I've been out to the HMB Jetty and O.B. on small shit days where the crowd sucked and people were dropping in, but where i'm from (Oahu), i'm used to that. Whenever the surf hits overhead, most of the posers and losers are no where to be found. I've met a lot of really nice guys in the line up at O.B. Surfers come by and say what's up, and I generally feel good vibes. It's never crowded at O.B. when the surf is good and on the larger side, in my opinion. If you guys want crowded surf, head south and surf that for a year and come back to SF, then you'll see how ridiculous your statements sound.

By the way, Former Sunset Kid, I hear a lot of SF natives gripe about their city the way you do. I'm not from there, but I can see where you guys are coming from: it's a love/hate relationship for me too. This weekend, I was up there with my family, and it effing sucked. I wanted to burn that whole god damn place down: parking sucked, traffic sucked, people sucked, crowds suck, our hotel was on fire, my car almost got towed, the parking rates were ridiculous, idiots everywhere. Time to start looking elsewhere to put down roots.

Secret Doom Dada, since you fled the "American male mindset", are you now Transgender or just ghey?

i love how you attempt to belittle american bloggers, and show how smart you are with pointless babble, while actually typing on the blog. continue reading Narnia dude

beleive it or not im walking on air i never thought i could feel so free eee eee!

Ha I just got rained on- sort of, even if it was kinda warm.

Bring on the winter, as always that will regulate! What do you say Blakestah, no fall this year? Winter predictions, I think those farmers are predicting an early cold one. I hope it's like last year.

T-storms at OB!!!

if kenneth goes ET it will be a XXL swell mid-week next week....right now I'm wondering what is up with the thunder

Here's a vid to chill everyone out;
Sweet Video

I just finished The life of Michael Peterson book. I only knew that he was a Curren of his time but little else. As a matter of fact Curren has stated his surfing is modeled somewhat from him. The story on the otherhand is sometimes brutal, charming, and definately amazing. He fought an undiagnosed mental illness for 10+ years and rampant drug addiction which was mostly in leu of his disorder.When he took heroin it had a coke like affect on him- others would simply fall asleep. He smoke Huge amounts of weed just to slow his mind down so he could be a little more "normal"-he mind always racing otherwise. I kept turning back to the pictures in the middle of the book to get a closer look at this guy-I couldn't
belive what I was reading sometimes. Great Book!
Transplant 415 u R A KoOk!

How cool is that?! Good find dmc.

cool dad and a fucking lucky kid... great vid

I did see lightning out there, sweet..thought I was going batty. I think that means the end of shitty waves in some cultures.

Good thing the little tot is his son, otherwise he'd get flamed by agro punks afraid of "crowds"

Party and discussion on transplants at BVBs!! Should we throw it at his LA digs, SF or Hawaii??

that video rules

why is my clutch's hydraulic system losing pressure with no visiable leaks and slave cylinder with only 23k on it?

enough with this bullshit already ok.

paddle out and shut the fuck up. let your surfing do the talking. PLEASE!

I want to put some perspective on this debate. I was born and grew up on the beaches of Bodega, Marin, Santa Cruz and San Francisco(never lived outside of a Bay Area beach-front county), even though I didn't start surfing until my late teens. Although I'm sometimes overwhelmed by what happened to this area as a result of the "dot com", I also have really good friends that came here because of it. I can accept all of the transplants that surf here now, particularly because most are a lot cooler than the wanna-be gangster "locals" (BVB, Local 415, etc.).

However, I need to re-assert my statement from yesterday that it is time to stop introducing new people to the sport. Let them find their own way, and this will drastically cut back on the growth of new surfers. I don't have hate for newbies, I just ignore them (unless they hit me with their boards). This philosophy has no hate or greed in it really, its just says keep surfing sacred, let every one build their own path into it. Once they find that path, respect them, but dont coddle them.

I don't really have a problem with how or when people got here, what type of board they use, what size waves they ride, or how graceful they are on the wave, as long as they don't let go of their boards around other people or drop in. I only have a problem when they desacrate the sacredness of the sport by bringing in all their frat boys and encouraging them to surf.

Really, think about these ideas. This is my only problem as a coastal Bay Area local. Not this blog (e is obviously cool), not cell phones, not name dropping, and not transplants. Please, spead the word: No to surf schools, no to coddling (with the limited exception of your own children).

Also, I'm a professional with a doctorate, so this isn't about being an angry blue-collar. Its just common sense, and niceness to all current surfers. If someone doesn't yet surf, its not "mean" to make them figure it out for themselves.

eightwest,
awesome shot of hanalei bay
the white water says there's a little right pealing at waikokos

All this moaning and complaining made God cry. Raining in September?!? What have you people done?

Further Caveat to the "no teaching":

Any surfer is entitled to give tips to a very attractive member of which ever gender they prefer if there is a realistic chance of getting some poontang out of it. This qualification is in recognition of the overarching principle that if surfing is more important to you then pussy,then you are seriously screwed up.

List of proper priorities:

1) Pussy

2) Niceness

3) Surfing

4) Music

5) Ganja

Thanks.

Yesterday evening, witnessed some dude who took his woman/GF out at OB and she was seriously underskilled and did not have the stamina to battle the currents or wave/beach knowledge to avoid them. Why do people endanger others' lives? She was scared and I woulda been too. Very uncool. Luckily, she made it to shore.

Anon,

Well stated. There is already sufficient encouragement built into the marketing machines of the surf companies; why encourage participation further?

We each come on our own journey; respect other's journey - just don't encourage new people into the sport.

g.

Maybe it was intentional amigoism. He won't have to go threw the, "it's not you. It's me" routine. She'll just say, "It's you!" Goodbye. Easy way out.

OR maybe he was trying to drown her and collect on an insurance policy to fund his surfer boy lifestyle.

I agree with everything Anon (a couple spaces up) has to say!!!! The only other thing I would say is that "Change happens". Change has happened in the past and will happen in the future. What won't happen is that things will stay the same.

My kids great-grandfather was born in SF (he is 98 now) and he doesn't complain about all the change he has seen. He used to ride a donkey to kindergarten and just a few years ago he was driving a Lexus. He has seen a lot of change!

Of course, it is almost always the old people that complain because they are the only ones who know what is used to be like.

To paraphrase what Anon said above: Don't help but also don't harm.

i taught my friend how to surf cause i was sick of talking to lame egotistical surfers. funny post though anon.

If gas prices keep rising I'm going to be riding a donkey...

I must be seriously screwed up. Best surf moments of my life are far more memorable than the best p___y moments.

I was just going to post that I approved of the "sweet video" since the learner is the offspring of the teacher.

Anon stated it much better.

I also do not hate newbies, and never hassle anyone in the water, unless they are being hazardous to others.

But, it is really just commonsense. We enjoy a limited resource. No reason to hype it any more than it already is.

I saw two hotties surfing yesterday afternoon at the beach. They didn't stop me from catching waves, and gave me even more nice shapes to look at besides the sexy waves that were coming through. I heard one of them say she is 23, and I must say, she filled out that wettie quite well.

As for right now, I'm in a cafe in Berkeley checking out the 19 year old at the espresso machine. Man, I love young women! Man I love glassy waves! Man I love coffee!

http://www.billabong.com/en/images/img_video-clips/ai_learntosurf.mov

Anon, define frat boy. Is this a look or a mentality or ??

Frat boy is a mentality. Its about blind consumption and conformity. Its not about having been in an actual frat or wearing J.Crew, although there is some overlap. Its about the republican exploitation mentality. And its not just transplants, plenty of dickhead locals have the "frat boy" mentality, even if they have tatoos and gotees and dropped out of high school.

E seems like a good example of the opposite of a frat boy- tuned into good vibes and awareness, although I fear from some of the posts I've read here over the last couple of years that he may have introduced new people into surfing. Fine. I've probably introduced a couple myself in the past. But I have made a promise to myself to never hype up surfing to non-surfers again. The only people I will ever teach in the future will be my offspring.

(post edited by e)

Please don't post violent skinhead images
- e

Send your newbies to me. I like foam boards they are much easier on my teeth, plus you are much easier to locate with your splashing and thrashing around. Don't forget I am the Bad Vibe Local #1

i'm with y'all on this stuff. i say we discourage newbies by setting up a website where we spend all day pretending to be humorless, bitter, selfish jerks. who's with me!

and we'll post tons of nazi grandmas abusing people
thanks for the editing E...f**ing grow up you stupid punks.

Does this satisfy the censors?

Notice how "namers get owned" pics are becoming increasingly homo-erotic? Check out the dude on the far left clenching his beer between his legs like he's jacking off? Clearly this guy is a gay (not that there's anything wrong with it) "frat boy" (there is something wrong with that).

like someone mentioned a few days ago..
dust
wind
dude

My eyes be squint like, my drops be late like, my rides be snake like, my vibe be stink like, my spot be mine like, my life be taint like, my soul in pain like, wish it was life like.

no more niceness here. sounds like the fog, west winds and generally shitty weather is starting to wear on people.

can anybody remember a long summertime blues pattern than this.

when was the last time we had a day of offshore winds?

"the republican exploitation mentality", wonderful. I kind of liked your argument up until there. At what point does your soapbox get high enough to be an ivory tower?

Awesome weather pics E. I saw a huge lightning flash over the water about 20 minutes ago. The fog bank behind the clouds looked like a big mountain range, Monterey-ish.

hey surfing sam, my grandma (my kids great grandma) is 99. Born in SF. She never complains either. She was a premature birth, my great grandma went into labor during the 06 quake.

THERE ARE COOL DOTCOMMERS...THERE ARE SHELFISH DOTCOMMERS.....THERE ARE COOL LOCALS...THERE ARE ASSHOLE LOCALS....THERE ARE COOL TANNIES...THERE ARE ASSHOLE TRANNIES...THERE ARE COOL SURFERS...THERE ARE ASSHOLE SURFERS...CAN U SEE THE PATTERN?. NOW SHUT THE FUCK UP WITH ALL THESE NEGATIVE RANTS AND DO SOMETHING MEANINGFUL WITH YOUR LIVES ( FOR THOSE SPREADING HATE AND MALICE ONLY) FOR THE REST...NICENESS

eightwest, you da man!

shred on

That second cloud pic is called a wall cloud. It's about to spawn a tornado. There may actually be a funnel hidden byu the rainfall. The air below that cloud is definately spinning.

Locals, your voice is so faint. Its hard to hear over the humm of a well oiled economic machine.

You made your own bed, I don't want to hear you bitch and moan.

The first storm cloud is actually a portal to an alternate universe and is about to let an evil demon pass though it and wreak havoc upon NYC... unless of course the Ghostbusters can stop it!!

Hey Web,
He was born after the quake. I think on VanNess and California. They lived downtown but was born there because that is where the fire stopped. They lost everything (including his father). They moved to the desert east of LA and North of Mex. He grew up a poor farm boy without a father "doing the work of a man at 10 years old." Needless to say he is a little disgusted with my video game playing surfing sons, so I guess he does complain a little.

We got it good here in the dot com world. Even the poor people (Americans) live better than the well off people in the early part of the 20th century.

Thank you to E and Kaiser for all the pics. Us office guys need them, at least I do.

I mean is'nt the whole anti "dot-commie" thing kind of redundant? If I recall there was a boom in the early nineties, that was brought on by the increasing populatity and larger use of the internet. I mean, everyone had an idea for the next greatest use of the internet. A handfull of people made money, and after the exitement faded and the internet started evolving, a way larger handfull of people got laid off and alot of dot coms crashed, hard. I know alot of guys that got screwed out if a job, so you guys should be stoked! They had to move back to where they came from (none of them surfed though, sorry). I think the dot com thing some of you are complaining about is now just the internet. I'm just saying if your going to complain about something make sure your up to date on your shit.

If you're going to start spouting about dot commers and that whole ride (way back when, like half a decade ago now) then you need to talk Alan Greenspan, Money Supply, Clinton... it's not as simple as they came and now it sucks.

and for all of you who live within minutes of the waves and are bitching. get a clue. you are so incredibly fortunate. remember? in the grand scheme, OB is great, it can be world-class, and it isn't very crowded. enjoy your waves and realize how many other people won't even get the opportunities you have, like surfing OH fall at the beach.

word

Strait trippin is right, shesh.

Learn to surf
LESSION ONE: The Bro Hug
1) Approach your "bro"
2) Clasp hands in a solid soul shake
3) Close the gap between your "bro" and bring hands to solar plexus
4) Lean in and execute a quick back slap/tap with free arm.
5) disengage

next week:
The Line-up Heckle

Dude! thanks mxrxhx. Somewhere between #2 and #4 i alwayse manage to headbut my "bro"..im still learning!

BVB is losing it. Hope he's OK. It has nothing to do with this site.

damn i love the smells of fall! rain on warm concrete, the slight crispness in the air, the smell of wet leaves....good stuff.

Despite what the people above might be saying about being lucky, I'd like to remind everyone that come the first rainfall, OB is a bacteria-laden cesspool that everyone should avoid. Also car thieves, angry locals, rip currents, cold, newbies with sharpened fins on their boards, ill-tempered sea bass, rabid sea otters, and gangland shootings. Oh yeah, gas is really fucking expensive too. Therefore, I recommend everyone settle their tempers and take up knitting. If you start now, you can have some sweaters done as holiday presents.

i moved out here in '92. rode my bike up and down ob for 3 years until i started surfing there. didn't know about lessons, who surfed, why they surfed, i just knew that i had to be in the water (grew up next to the atlantic, a waterbaby). observed that i had to be really fit so i swam laps at garfield pool for about 6 mos before my first memorable session at ob where i got my ass handed to me over and over again. over time, i made it a point to ask the lifeguards about rips, currents, and other dangers. ten years later i wonder where i got the idea that ob was a hospitable place for a beginning surfer, but i guess i just fell in love with the beach. still have a very healthy fear for her power and still in awe of the beauty. lately i've been transfixed with how the water tensions up the face of the wave. if you haven't felt that kind of happiness, keep looking.

word up Betho!

Niceness at sundown and a niceness post by BethO.

I am so tired of all your bullshit...

Locals!?!

Your ancestors killed all my fucking natives!

FYI you bitches...Keep an eye out for that lightning bolt if you keep on Kvetching...that's yiddish, you goyim surfknobs.

Oh, by the way...

Taught Jesus, Buddha, Mohammed, and Ghandi to surf today...

They all rip...way harder than you...and no wetsuits.

In case you were wondering...GOD stays up really late

I went to O.B. today. It was pretty fun. Not as bad as I thought it would be. Damn, it was scary with all the thunder and shit.

Man, you guys gotta watch this:

http://www.muchosucko.com/index.php?module=PostWrap&page=flash/punch_out_flash.html

I think it's super funny: "I ain'ts naked yet, look at mah boots."

i was in cabo a little while ago, the waves were alright, the tacos were pretty fucking good but I left with about 8 bad tastes in my mouth. didn't open my eyes until just before i left, late morning session a bunch of older guys, a young guy and a middle age woman paddled out to the (pretty lame but convenient to the airport) wave I was surfing and just bummed me out. they weren't kooks at all but that made it worse, good surfers, probably fucking doctors, lawyers and successful businessmen in san diego county, they were riding logs with hats on and were hoarding waves while bro-ing down in the most obnoxious and unseemly way imaginable. there was nothing a polite short board rider could do except question every fucking aspect of surfing "culture". conclusions were that it is embarrassing to be associated with it. who wants to be an out of shape yet skillful 50-60 year old affecting semi spicoli mannerisms in at a luxury surf break in a fucking fantasy version of the so called third world? what is the point, why not just carry on that way at squaw valley or vail on a snowboard, the thrill is similar, the resource is more consistent and the milieu is more appropriate? i guess maybe its the brittle bones issue or something, but people need to grow the fuck up. shakas and stoke for your friends only, paddle arounds and gunning for dribblers from way outside as the sun beats down on your hairy back inside of a white billabong rash guard will always be incredibly fucking lame in my book.

you all love to debate etiquette at the beach and in the line up, and whether spots should be named (drake's probably went off last weekend, that's on point reyes for you "newbies" and "dot commies", use google, there's plenty of info available to anyone with a brain, these pompous "locals" are hilarious and completely unable to NOT name their spots, otherwise how could they claim their glorious exploits?), but the bigger issues are completely ignored. first one, who fucking cares really, besides quiksilver, billabong, volcom, rusty, hurly err nike, patagonia (yes patagonia, yvon chouinard is, to someone who doesn't know him but understands business, is a complete incredible fucking hypocrite and asshole, and I guarantee that he is an asshole in real life and not a nice guy to people he doesn't know personally, its obvious), answer is besides some of you and a some other like you, NO ONE who doesn't want to sell you something. That is surf culture enjoy it and get fucked. Surfing = masturbation, i have considerable experience with both but I don't think its appropriate to talk at length about either. feel free to disagree fuckers. e, sorry to harsh but jazz guitar is even less worthy of public airing than surfing or masturbation. what goes on in private is fine, but you know, everyone has that special technique and appreciation and its really not necessary to talk about it.

damn, local surfing is now dictated by some transplant kook from LA. where do i get one of those cyclocross bikes?

BYG,
I could be wrong. . . but. . Surfing might have changed in the last 10 years. As it did 10 years before that and 10 years before that. Sounds like the only one not having fun in Cabo was you. And fun is the only consistent in surfing through these changes.
Some other food for thought. All of the captains of industry that you mentioned got that way because they fed a need in the market. If the masses weren�t yearning for something they would not buy it. So you are really mad about a market movement. You're in for a long and painful road if you fight the will of a free people.
Get right with yourself and you won't have such a problem with what the world around you is doing. I know people that are still pissed off about the direction surfing went in 30 years ago. Good Luck.

Oh, for gosh sakes', "Bitter Young Guy", what did you expect? You no doubt paddled out at a "Old Mans'".

I'm gonna try to not take any of that stuff you said personally, (my wife will tell you that I have even less hair on my back than on my head), so all I can do is invite you to come out with my crew sometime. We've got least one of everything including henpecked old family men, teenage rippers, locals, yokels, young professionals, dot commies, mommies, limeys, hotties, longboarders, shortboarders, spongers, veterans and a bum. I'm pretty sure you'll have a good time. I think you might even enjoy a few hoots. And, in the end, I think we'll all agree that you've got at least as much soul as the rest of us.

BYG,
I surf both long and short, and i know if i bring my short board to a place where both long and short are in the water, I will get less waves.
Always nice though when the longies wave on the shorties once in a while. If the longies wanted they could get every wave, so they need to relax and let the shorties have some. It doesn't always happen though. Get used to it or forever be bitter.

BYG - was your mom and dad in that crowd that you're rebelling against?

shortie: hey do you mind letting me work into the rotation?
longboarder: sure, I didn't realize you weren't getting your share
shortie: thanks man
longboarder: no problem

its amazing what civil conversation can accomplish.